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LA PLATA, 



ARGENTINE CONFEDERATION 



PARAGUAY. 



BEING A NARRATIVE OF THE EXPLORATION OF THE TRIBUTARIES OF THE 
RIVER LA PLATA AND ADJACENT COUNTRIES DURING THE YEARS 

1853, '54, '5o, and '56, 

UNDER THE ORDERS OF THE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT. 



BY THOMAS J. PAGE, U. S. K, 

OOMMATSllXEK OF THE EXPEDITION. 



toitl) Map axib Numerous (Etujramngs. 




NEW YORK: 
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, 

FRANKLIN SQUARE. 

1859. 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand eight hundred 
and fifty-nine, by 

HARPER & BROTHERS, 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New York. 

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CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Urquiza's Decree, opening the Waters of La Plata.— The Expedition.— Its Ob- 
jects.— The Water Witch.— Her Sea Qualities.— The Voyage.— Arrival at Rio 
de Janeiro. — Correspondence with the Government. — Permission granted to as- 
cend to Albuquerque. — Further Extension of this Privilege. — Pamperos. — The 
Morgan Wheel. — French Charts. — Arrival at Montevideo. — Quarantine. — Yellow 
Fever. — Montevideo. — Its Trade and Population. — Colonel Paunero....Page 25 

CHAPTER II. 

Arrival at Buenos Ayres. — Its Site. — Winds. — Higueritas. — Trade. — Buildings. — 
Fruits and Flowers. — Landing at Buenos Ayres. — Besiegers and Besieged. — Our 
Ministers. — Treaty with President Lopez. — Urquiza's Army. — Visit at Head- 
quarters. — Personal Appearance of the General. — He interests himself in the 
Expedition. — Detention at Buenos Ayres. — Letter from Mr. Pendleton. — Treach- 
ery in the Squadron. — Joint Treaty of Navigation. — Martin Garcia Channel. — 
New Channel discovered. — Letter from Messrs. Schanck and Pendleton. — Break- 
ing up of the Siege. — Senor Urquiza and Staff on board the Water Witch. — Pa- 
lermo, the former Residence of Rosas. — The Dictator and his Daughter Manu- 
elita. — Urquiza's Dog. — The Director's Demeanor. — The Voyage. — Ladies on 
board. — Temperance of Urquiza. — He leaves the Water Witch. — Return to 
Buenos Ayres. — Tribute to British Officers 35 

CHAPTER III. 

Letter from Mr. Schenck. — Visit to the Estancia of General Urquiza. — Framing 
of the Treaty. — Marking Cattle. — Farm and Residence of the Director. — Os- 
triches, Partridges, and Deer: Mode of hunting them. — Horses. — Return to 
Buenos Ayres. — The Galera. — Reception at Concepcion. — The College. — The 
Ball. — Native Grace of Spanish American Women. — Leave Concepcion. — The 
Water Witch. — Coaling at Buenos Ayres. — Final Departure for the Ascent of 
the River 51 

CHAPTER IV. 

Chronometers. — Determinations of Latitude and Longitude. — Construction of 
Charts. — Delta of the Parana. — Diamante. — Fruits. — Oranges. — Peaches. — 
Beautiful Scenery. — Mouths of the Parana. — The Parbon. — The Gualaguay. — 
TheRepunte. — Periodical Risings of Water. — Islands. — The Seibo and Sause. — 
San Pedro. — Obligardo. — Passage forced by the English and French. — Island 
Formations. — Variations of Channel. — Pilots. — Estancieros. — San Nicholas. — 
Rosario. — Its commercial Importance. — Advantages over Buenos Ayres. — Winds. 
— Letter of R. B. Forbes, Esq. — Banks of the River. — Convent of San Lorenzo. — 
The Tercero. — Mr. Campbell's Survey. — The Chaco Hills. — Scenery. — Diaman- 
te. — Ferries. — Trees. — The Algarroba and Espinilla 64 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER V. 

Left Bank of the Parana. — Survey made by Lieutenant Powell. — Climbing the 
Tree. — Victoria. — Descending the Parana Cito. — Puerto de los Bues. — Guala- 
guav. — El Puerto de Ybicui. — A Canal. — Paciencia. — Physical Changes. — The 
Colastiue. — Capella de Sun Jose. — Santa Fe. — The Chaco. — Its Inhabitants. — 
Parana. — Bajada. — Progress. — Pine Lumber. — Commercial Prospects. — Cedar. 
— Surface Soil. — Dr. Martin de Moussy's Report. — Plan of Parana. — Buildings 
and Population. — River Banks. — Estancia of an Englishman. — Eeliciana. — La 
Paz. — The Jefe de Politica and the Curate. — Fuel. — Pass of San Juan. — Course 
of the River. — Sullivan's Charts. — Wild Fowl. — The Espinilla. — Capibaras or 
Capinchas. — Locusts. — Catching a Deer. — Riacho Caraguatay. — Riacho San 
Geronimo. — Goya. — Capincha Chase. — Bella Vista. — Productions. — Fishing. — 
Tobacco Island. — Hunting for Specimens. — Taquari Chico. — An Orange Estan- 
cia. — The Camilote. — Arrival at Corrientes. — Visit to the Governor. — Visit from 
the Governor. — City of Corrientes. — Easy Navigation of the River. — -Fine Woods 
for Fuel. — Resources of the River Provinces. — Table of Distances Page 79 

CHAPTER VI. 

The Waters of the Paraguay and Parana. — Affluents of the Paraguay. — Enter 
the Territory of Paraguay. — Salute to the Admiral of the Navy of the Republic 
of Paraguay. — Visit from the Admiral. — Boundaries of the South American Re- 
publics.— Banks of the Paraguay. — Palm-trees and beautiful Scenery. — Guardias 
and Piquetes. — Tres Bocas. — Guardia Humaita. — President Lopez and the Bra- 
zilian Squadron. — Vermejo River. — Pillar. — Caria. — Caranday Palm. — The Ti- 
biquari. — Salute of Musketry. — Villa Franca. — The Commandante. — The Las- 
so and Bolas. — Oliva. — Villa Villeta, — A Cigar with the Commandante. — San 
Antonio. — Mount Lambare. — Arrival at Asuncion. — Rise and Fall of the Para- 
guay 105 

CHAPTER VII. 
Interviews with President Lopez. — Negotiations. — Residence at Asuncion. — The 
City. — Buildings. — Francia's Tomb. — Francia's Cruelties. — Isolation of Para- 
guay. — Francia's System. — Dahlgreen's Howitzer. — The American Company. — 
Celebration of Lopez's Birth-day. — Reception at the Government House. — Grand 
Ball at the Residence of the Chief Justice. — The Speech 116 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Departure from Asuncion. — The President's Quinta. — Salinas. — A Hill. — The Con- 
fnso, — The Salado. — Estancia of Lopez. — Variety of Woods and Fruits. — Que- 
bracho. — Capiepomo. — Guazu. — Cattle. — Hospitality. — River Scenery. — An 
Accident to Engine. — Piquete Ytati. — Wood for Steamers. — Plants and S limbs. 
— River Jejui. — San Pedro. — Another Accident to Engine. — Guaycuru Rembiu. 
— Government Estancia. — The Pacu Fish. — River Changes. — The Ypane. — Ar- 
rival at Concepcion 128 

CHAPTER IX. 

Concepcion. — Verba. — Government Monopolies and Restrictions placed upon Trade. 
— Favorable Reception. — Guembe and Guembetaya. — The Water Witch. — ABall 
:it the Commandante'e House;. — A Quandary. — Danced down. — Senor Tachiera. 
— Costumes. — Wood for Steamer. — Rio Saladillo. — Salinas. — Indians. — The 
Cacique*. — A Shaking of Hands and a Smoke. — Palm Forest. — Salvador. — Heat. 



CONTENTS. Xi 

— State of the Country. — The Abatiguaniba.— Caraguatay Guazu. — Manufactures 
of its Thread. — Thorns converted into Needles. — The Datil. — Reptile Hunting. 
—Supplies. — Value of Hide. — Piquete Arracife. — Heat. — Paso Melo. — Mount- 
ed Indians from the Chaco. — Piquete Judiarte. — Guardia Apatuya. — Beautiful 
Scenery. — The Morada and Ytapucu Guazu.' — The Children of the Gran Chaco. 
— Equestrian and Pedestrian. — Size, Strength, and Longevity. — An Octogenarian 
in the Flower of his Age. — Nabidigua. — TheMbayas. — Their Slaves. — The Gua- 
rani. — Spiritual Notions of the Aborigines. — No Word for God or Divinity. — Ahar- 
aigichi. — Jupa. — Inferior Creatures or not? Page 136 

CHAPTER X. 

Rio Appa. — A Tapir. — Differences between Brazil and Paraguay as to the Bounda- 
ries. — Letter from Mr. Hudson. — Point Rock. — Sierra Siete Punta. — Pan de 
Azucar. — Ascent of the Mountain. — The View. — Speculations on the Future of 
this Country. — Round Top. — Fort Bourbon. — Claims of Bolivia and Paraguay. 
— Bahia Blanca. — Vuelta Pariquito. — Capon Chico. — A Boa. — Dorado, Pacu, 
and Palometa. — Ascent of the Bahia Blanca. — Camelotas. — Suspending of the 
Bottle to a Tree. — Proposition of Don Manuel Louis de Oliden. — Grant by the 
Congress of Bolivia. — Decree of the Supreme Government: — Importance at- 
tached to the Navigation of the Otuquis. — Extract from a Pamphlet by Mauri- 
cio Back. — Fort Coimbra. — Flattering Expressions of the Commandante. — The 
Guaycurus. — Policy of Brazil toward the Chaco Indians. — The Canoe 160 

CHAPTER XI. 

The Moro Dorito. — Curalo Todo. — Tea, Coffee, and Milk. — Position of Anchorage 
off Albuquerque. — The Miranda. — The Tacuary. — Azara's Maps, — The Cam- 
barasa. — The Paraguay Mini. — Corumba. — The Guatambu. — Hunting the Ja- 
guar. — Fruits. — Return to Albuquerque. — Village of Mbayas. — An Indian Mis- 
sion. — Rice and Cotton. — Schools. — The Padre. — A Dance. — Missionary Effort. 
— The Jesuits. — The Dinner on board the Water Witch. — Trade of Cuyaba. — 
Bolivian Refugees. — The Grotto Inferno. — Capture of a Sentinel. — Fate of the 
Refugees. — Birds. — The Jaguar. — Its Ferocity. — Lenguas Indians. — The Com- 
mandante wears a long Face. — The Yellow Parrot. — Anchored off Asuncion. — 
A Storm brewing 182 

CHAPTER XII. 

The Captain of the Port. — Momentous Question. — A Call at the Government 
House. — The Secretary of State. — Visit to the President. — The Anniversary of 
Paraguayan Independence. — Minor Explorations. — Congress of 1812. — The 
Consuls. — Francia. — Provisional Junta. — Another Congress. — President Lo- 
pez. — The Constitution. — Ignorance of the People. — Society. — Senoritas and 
Flowers. — Paraguay Tobacco and Smokers. — The Siesta. — Another Call upon 
the President. — The Vaquerano. — A Tour into Paraguay. — SenorDon JaimiCor- 
vallan. — Periju. — Sefiora Dalmacia. — Villa Rica. — Don Louis Homan. — The 
Tebiquari. — The Recado. — Puesta del Estado de Jesus Maria. — The Dinner. — 
The Peripo. — Mr. Francis Wisner. — Sefior Sergente Lopez. — Seiiora Clara. — 
Manufacture of Cigars. — The Taquari. — Fertility of the Country. — Medical Men. 
— Healthful Climate. — Puebla Carmen. — Don Mariana. — The Yun. — El Secre- 
tario. — Ytapua 198 



x ii CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XIII. 
Francia. — Religion and the Churches. — Ytapua. — The Commandante and Soldiers. 
— Navigability of the Parana. — Carmen. — Equipments of Horses. — Mission of San 
Cosmi. — Estancia San Rafael.— Mate. — Frescoes. — D. Ignacio's Horse. — Capilla 
San Martin. — The Supper. — Missions Santa Maria and Santa Rosa. — Estancia 
of Senora Casara. — The Merchant President. — Seflor Cabefias. — Capilla Caa- 
pucu. — Senor Vasconcellos. — The Diezmo. — Public Lands. — Sefior Bergarran. 
— Iron Works. — The Waiter. — The Superintendent. — Ibicui. — Mineral Districts. 
— Products and Exports of Paraguay. — The Surgeon of the Water Witch. — 
Beauty and Fertility of the Country. — Presidential Election. — No Admittance. 
— A Motion to make the President Emperor. — The Constitution. — Individual 
Wealth. — Cotton. — Lists of Exports from Asuncion Page 224 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Expedition under Geronimo Metorras. — Colonel Arrias. — Murillo and Lapa. — 
Colonel Ariadne Cornejo. — Don Pablo Soria. — Steamer Pilcomayo.- — Lieutenant 
Powell instructed to enter the Interior of Paraguay. — Want of Game and Fish. 
— Force of the Current. — Tobas Indians. — Nacurutu. — Palms. — Rio Saco. — De 
loi Carui. — Visit to the Toldo — Paso da Lurbi. — River ascended one hundred 
and twenty Miles. — Channel. — Descending a Cascade. — A Hunt with Dr. Car- 
ter. — Lost. — Signals. — The Howitzer replies. — Safe Return. — Descending the 
River. — Mr. Hickman. — Letter from Mr. Dana 243 

CHAPTER XV. 

Visit to the President. — Boat-cruise up the Riachuelo. — Victoria Regia or Mais 
del Agua. — Orange Groves. — The Plow. — Posta Contaro. — San Cosmi. — Ytati. 
— Hacienda Yrisbugua. — Race with an Ostrich. — Breaking a Horse. — Troubles 
at Asuncion. — Visit to the President. — Consultation with Mr. Hopkins. — Return 
to the Government-house. — Last Interview with his Excellency. — The Permit. 
—Correspondence with Mr. Falcon. — Council at Head-quarters. — Americans on 
board, descending the River. — The Navy heaves in Sight. — Passing the Admi- 
ral. — The President's Indignation and the Seminario. — The Treaty. — Mr. Fal- 
con's extraordinary Letter. — False Charges in the President's Message. — The 
French Colony. — The Brazilian Squadron. — Outrage committed upon the Water 
Witch.— What our Policy with South American States should be 263 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Lieutenant Powell dispatched to Montevideo.— Mr. Murdaugh ordered to explore 
the southern and western parts of the Province. — Extract from Journal of Lieu- 
tenant Murdaugh.— Cotton.— Saladas.— Sugar.— San Roque.— Return to Bella 
Vista.— Goya.— Rincon de Soto.— A Tour in the Governor's Galera.— A Bivou- 
ac— Curuzu Quatia.— Return. —River Mirinay.— Estancia Bonpland.— Res- 
tauracion.— Uruguayana. — Note from M. Bonpland.— Imprisonment of the Nat- 
uralist.— Tobacco.— Coffee.— Lagoon of Ybera 288 

CHAPTER XVII. 

The Dinner at Corricntes.— The Address.— Toasts and Wine.— A Cargo of Lum- 
ber.—The Baladero. — The Water Witch dispatched up the Parana.— Sudden 
Return of Lieutenant Jeffers.— The Steamer run aground by the Pilot.— Fired 
into from the Port, killing the Helmsman.— False Claims of President Lopez to 
the Channel.— Erroneous Statements and Fancy Sketches of the President of 



CONTENTS. Xlll 

Paraguay. — Affection for the Salto Grande. — Dispatch to our Government. — Its 
Contents refuted. — Return to Buenos Ayres. — Lieutenant Powell dispatched to 
Eio. — Arrival of the Savannah. — Indecision of the Commodore. — Refusal to 
grant the Guns. — United States Legation versus United States Squadron. — What 
should have been done. — Dispatch from Sefior Vasquez. — The Commodore im- 
pressed with the Fact of the Parana containing sufficient Depth of Water to ad- 
mit a Sloop of War Page 301 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Island of Martin Garcia. — Pass of San Juan. — Town of Higueritas. — The Brasso 
Bravo. — Rio Negro. — The Gualaguaychu.— Conception. — Frey Bentos. — Fine 
Pasturage. — Herds of Cattle. — Arrival at Concepcion. — College. — Saladeros. — 
Town of Paisandu. — An Englishman's Estancia. — Current of the River. — Palm 
Forests of Entre Rios. — The Arroyo Grande. — Paso Heredera. — Town of Con- 
cordia. — Trade. — Salto. — The Salto Grande. — Killing a Partridge. — Rise of Wa- 
ter. — Tide. — Track Survey of the Rio Negro. — Town of Soriana. — Mercedes. — 
Sarsaparilla. — Fossil Remains. — Megatherium and Glyptodon. — Health of this 
Region of Country. — Cattle and Estancias 318 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Chartering of the little Steamer. — Arrival at Santa Fe. — Province of Santa Fe. — 
Civil Wars and Independence. — Wood. — Ascent of the River. — Animal Life. — 
Ducks, Jaguars, Capibaras, and Armadillos. -^-The Diver, Podiceps leucopterus. — 
Planting of sweet Potatoes. — The Crucito. — The Saladito. — La Cruz. — The Bed 
of a Lagoon. — Monte Aguara. — The Return. — Current and Width of the River. — 
The Jaguar. — Density of the Salado Water. — Journey by Land to the upper Wa- 
ters. — A Tatu. — Quebracho. — The Mirage. — The surly Officer. — The Tongue of 
the taciturn Argentino loosened. — The Segundo. — Tio or Concepcion. — Algor- 
roba and Soil. — Arrival at Cordova. — List of Distances 332 

CHAPTER XX. 

Cordova. — De Garay. — Population of the Province. — The City of Cordova. — Trade. 

— Rail-road surveyed by Mr. Campbell. — Madam . — Cathedral and Public 

Buildings. — The Colegio Maximo. — Paintings. — Dr. Hawling's Tannery. — The 
Market. — Copper in the Sierras of Cordova. — Sefior Zuverir. — Mineral Districts. 
— A Journey to Santiago. — Appearance of the Horses : their Powers of Endur- 
ance. — Valley of Jesus Maria. — Shepherds' Dogs. — Divisidero. — Posta San Pe- 
dro. — Rosario. — Hard Riding. — Posta del Monte. — Bed of the Rio Dulce. — 
Quichua Language. — Perqui. — The Harpist. — The Tropero. — A Dance and no 
Supper. — Cafia. — Another Tropa. — Arrival at Santiago 348 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Santiago. — Government House. — Trade and Population. — No Hotels. — Pair of 
Gloves. — Visit to the Governor. — Don Taboado. — The Boat. — Quintas and 
Fruits. — Chills at Santiago. — The Pic-nic. — The Dulce. — Bed of the Salado. — 
The Saladillo.— TheFlor del aria.— The Ulna.— Luxuriant Foliage.— The Slevre. 
— Bees. — The Toisini. — Yafia. — Moso Moso. — Mestiso Quilaya. — Cani. — Quella 
and Alframisqui. — The Eyrobafia. — Wax.— The Cochineal. — Lassoing a Mule. — 
Price of Mules. — Launching the Boat. — A Bivouac. — Arrival at Salvador. — 
Banks of the Salado. — Birds. — Estancia Figarra. — " Que Animal." — Arrival at 
Matara. — The Dance and the little Child. — The Priests. — Incursions of the 
Chaco Indians. — List of Trees. — Quebracho. — Algorroba. — Vinal. — Quilin. — 
Chana. — Mistal. — Vinay. — Tola.— Puna. — Gumi. — Quimel. — Cardon 361 



x iv CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XXII. 
Bajada Sause. — Women pursued by Indians. — Laguna Toma Caphuyan. — Estancia 
Granrilla Bracho. — A Night's Sleep interrupted by the Governor's Troop in pur- 
suit of Indians. — Fording the Lagoon. — The Scouts on the Trail. — Indians in 
Sight, — The White Men defied. — A Charge. — Another Pursuit. — Disappearance 
in the Forest. — Hunger, Thirst, and a sound Sleep in the Rain. — The old Es- 
tancieros. — Hostility of the Indians. — Navicha. — Paso Sandia. — Pastures. — 
Monte Aquara. — Monte Tigre. — Arrival of an additional Force. — Musquitoes 
and Rain. — Farther Advance of the Party. — On another Trail. — Swimming the 
River. —The Volleys. — Indians. — The would-be Captive. — -The dying Soldier. — 
The Bullet and a Cigar. — Monte del Muerta. — The Current running up. — The 
Return Page 374 

CHAPTER XXIII. 
Crossing at Paso Mistol. — A Cordon of Posts. — Paso la Torre. — A Wild-goat 
Chase. — Navigation of the Salado. — Senora Mendez. — Sleep in the Open Air. — 
Reservoirs of Water. — Drought. — Arrival at Santiago. — A Ball. — Toasts. — 
Fine Dancing. — River Dulce. —Road to Tucuman. — Approach the Andes. — 
Woodland. — Rio Tala. — Mountains. — Scenery. — Arrival at Tucuman. — Hotels 
in La Plata. — Dr. Priestly. — Sugar-Plantation. — Molasses, Sugar, and Rum Es- 
tablishment. — Cultivation of the Sugar-cane. — A Dinner at Senor Zavalier's. — 
Senora and her Daughters. — A Ride into the Country. — Scenery. — Dinner and 
Ball at the Governor's. — Beauty of Spanish- American Women. — Province of 
Tucuman. — The Capital. — Progress. — Statistics. — Cultivation. — Start for Salta. 
— Valleys. — Productive Capacity of the Soil. — Wheat. — Mountain Road. — Posta 
Romero. — The foiled Post-master. — Alimana. — Grassy Basin. — Destitute Post- 
master. — Valley Chiguano. — Upper Waters of the Salado. — Products of Valley 
Chiguano. — River Rosario. — Ford the Arrias. — Arrive at Salta 394 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

A Night at a Zambo. — Messrs. Pelacio. — Acts of Courtesy. — Province of Salta. — 
Population. — Products.— ^Salinas. — The Capital. — Advantages of Salado Nav- 
igation. — Mules. — Leather and Wool. — Trees. — The Pacaray. — Silk Rolls. — 
Wheat. — Copper. — Governor. — Music and Dancing. — Exiled Bolivians. — Revo- 
lutionary state of Bolivia. — Departure from Salta. — Tropas of Asses. — Lake 
Cabo. — Simbola. — Rivers Pasaje and Las Piedras. — Forests. — Little Use of Milk 
in La Plata. — Forest of Sevil. — Don Martin Giiemes. — Breakfast in the Forest. — 
Stage-coach. — Ferry-boats. — Beauty of Country. — Arrival at Tucuman. — Horse- 
hack Travel. — Gaucho Life. — Visit from the Governor. — Map of the Province of 
Tucuman. — Farewell to Friends in Tucuman. — Day's Ride. — Dulce Boat. — San- 
tiago and Reception at the Governor's. — Head Waters of the Salado. — Laboring 
Classes in Santiago. — Hospitality of Spanish-Americans. — Harvest. — Narrow 
pe. — ■ Horses. — A Cordova Posta. — Fined for fast Riding. — Leave Cordova. 
—Return Route across the Pampas. — Galera from Rosario. — Diligencia. — River 
Tercero. — Tropa of Mules from San Juan. — River Quarto. — Fording the Quarto. 
Pop-corn Party. — Division Line between Cordova and Santa Fe. — Postillion. 
— Growth of Rosario. — British Consul. — Farther Examinations of La Plata 
Channels.— Preparations for Departure. — Letters of Recall. — Boatswain's Call. 
— Germantown. — Lieutenant Ridgely. — Home 412 



CONTENTS. xv 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Extent of Exploration. — Depth of Water in the Paraguay. — Sources of that River. 
— Junction with the Parana. — The Parana River. — Tributaries of the Paraguay. 
— The Confuso and Otuquis. — Expeditions up and down the Pilcomayo. — North- 
ern and Southern Branch. — Little Success at its Navigation. — The Vermejo. — 
Its Navigability confirmed. — The Salado. — "River Bottom." — Falls of Apipe. 
— The Gran Salto. — The River above. — Islands and Rapids. — The Uruguay. — 
The Salto Grande. — Beauty of adjacent Country. — La Plata. — Its Mouth at the 
Capes. — Structure of the Parana Banks. — Tos'ca. — Rock Eormation on the Par- 
aguay. — Entrance to a Mountain Region. — The Great Gulf. — Birth of Rivers. 
— Callera de Arriola. — Retirement of the Sea. — Fossil Remains and Estuary 
Mud. — Diluvial and Alluvial Periods. — Encroachments of Land and Water. — 
Harbor of Buenos Ayres. — Fertility of Soil. — Fruits and Vegetation. — Medic- 
inal Plants and Woods. — Climate. — Navigation of the Rivers. — Letter from the 
Governor of Santiago. — Exclusive Privileges granted to Companies. — Suitable 
Vessels. — Paraguay. — Products and Advantages for Trade. — Interests of Boli- 
via. — Immigration. — Brossard. — Thiers and Guizot upon the Country of La Plata. 
— What foreign Governments have done. — What our Policy should be... Page 431 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

First Discovery of the River La Plata by Solis. — Death of Solis. — Sebastian Cabot. 
— First Settlement in La Plata. — Explorations of Cabot. — Indian Hostilities. — 
Highway to El Dorado. — Don Diego Garcia. — Cabot's Dispatch to the Emperor. 
— Pizarro. — Cabot superseded. — Don Pedro de Mendoza. — His Expedition to La 
Plata. — Founding of Buenos Ayres. — Hostility of the Indians. — Attack upon 
Buenos Ayres. — Ayolas. — His Expedition up the River. — Death of Mendoza. — 
Destruction of the Spaniards under Ayolas. — Don Dominguez Yrala. — Founding 
of Asuncion. — Indian Conspiracy. — The Spaniards and the Natives. — Don Al- 
varo Nunez de Vaca. — His Journey across the Continent. — Administration of 
De Vaca. — He is sent back to Spain. — Yrala appointed Adelantado. — Asun- 
cion erected into a Bishopric. — Disasters of the first Adventurers. — Successful 
Administration of Trala. — Commanderies. — Death of Yrala. — Zarate and Garay. 
— Victory over the Indians. — First export Cargo. — Death of Garay. — Final Con- 
quest of La Plata. — Separation from Paraguay 449 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

Arrival of the Jesuits in South America. — A pious Fraud. — Early Missionaries. — 
St. Francis Solano. — Chaco Indians. — Fathers Cataldino and Marcerata proceed 
to Guayra. — Foundation of Loreto. — St. Ignatius, St. Thomas, and the twelve 
Missions. — Establishment and Destruction of the Uruguay Reductions. — Mame • 
lucos of St. Paul. — Persecutions of the Indians. — Attack upon Guayra. — Retreat 
of the twelve Thousand to the Salto Grande. — Descent of the Falls. — Peace at 
last. — Renewal of the Uruguay Reductions. — Bickerings between Ecclesiastics 
and Laymen. — Retreat of another twelve thousand. — Fathers De Montoya and 
Tano are dispatched to the Continent : their Missions are crowned with Suc- 
cess. — Fire-arms and papal Briefs. — Another Attack of the Mamelucos. — Battle 
of Acaray. — Triumph of the Reduction Indians. — DonBernardin de Cardenas. — 
Excommunications. — Penitence of the Governor. — Deposition of the Bishop. — 
Return to Asuncion.— The Dictator. — Cardenas is relieved of his assumed Au- 
thority and retires to La Plata. — Defeat of the Mamelucos and Guaycurus. — 
Services of the Reduction Indians 465 



xv i CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Fathers placed in charge of the Missions : their Duties and Power. — Opinions and 
Researches of Azara. — Foundation of St. Joachim and of Belen. — Means and 
Measures adopted. — Jesuit Reduction. — College. — Dispensary, Gardens. — The 
Arsenal and Soldiery. — Sham-fights. — The Church: its Splendor. — Music. — 
Attendance at Church Service. — Fetes and Processions. — Clothing. — Schools. — 
Police System. — Daily Life. — Labor in the Fields. — Christian Republic. — Social 
Equality. — Mercantile Restrictions. — God's Inheritance Page 493 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

Tarija Missions. — Failures. — Confided to Franciscan Friars. — Spanish Settlement 
in the Province of Chiquitos. — Foundation and Removal of Santa Cruz Missions. 
— First Establishment by Father Arce. — Successive Reductions. — Native Of- 
ficials. — Jesuit System. — Abipones. — Concepcion and the Rosary. — Dobrizhoffer. 
— Voyage along the Coast of Patagonia.— Patagonia Missions. — Revolt of In- 
dians. — Cangapol , 506 

CHAPTER XXX. 

Stability of the Christian Church. — Contest for the Governorship of Asuncion. — 
Antequera. — Expulsion of the Jesuits. — Defeat of Don Balthazar Garcia Rosas. — 
Zavala.— Flight of Antequera, his Arrest and Execution. — Appointment of Don 
John de Barua. — Return of the Jesuits. — Rebellion in Paraguay. — Communeros 
andContrabandos. — A President. — Another Expulsion of the Jesuits. — Don Man- 
uel de Ruiloba, Governor of Asuncion. — A Defender. — Zavala enters Asuncion. 
— Contest at the Court of Madrid. — Triumph of the Jesuits. — Their exclusive 
Policy. — Suspicions revived. — The Contest renewed.-— Sebastian Carvalho, Mar- 
quis of Pombal. — The boundary Line. — Attempt to assassinate King Joseph. — 
Expulsion of the Order from Portugal and France. — Squillaci. — Charles III. — 
Aranda. — The Jesuits driven from Spain. — A Cruise at Sea. — Final Landing at 
Corsica. — Letter of the Pope. — Bucareli. — Viceroy of Buenos Ayres, his Mes- 
sengers and Dispatches. — Plans thwarted. — Sudden Arrest of the Fathers. — 
Destruction of the Cordova Library. — Memorial of the Indians in behalf of the 
Order. — Alarms of the Viceroy. — Expedition against the Parana and Uruguay 
Reductions. — The Fathers shipped for Europe. — Fate of the Missions 526 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

False Policy of Spain toward the Colonies. — Treaty of Utrecht. — Foundation of 
Montevideo. — Contrabandists. — Treaty of 1750. — Viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres. 
— Treaty of St. Ildefonso. — Final Concessions of the Mother Country. — Expedi- 
tion under Sir Home Popham. — Capture of Buenos Ayres. — Assault of Monte- 
video. — Defeat of General Whitelock. — Liniers. — Joseph Bonaparte. — A Portu- 
guese Pretender. — Cisneros. — Assembly of July 9th, 1816. — Independence of 
Paraguay, Bolivia, and Buenos Ayres. — Disadvantages the South American 
People labored under for forming a good Government. — The Banda Oriental. — 
Urquiza. — Oribe. — Battle of Monte Caseros. — Convention at St. Nicolas. — 
Courtesy extended to our Minister. — Disaffection of Buenos Ayres. — Siege of 
that City 552 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

Map of the Basin of La Plata at the end of the volume. 

*4 The Steamer Water Witch Frontispiece. 

Montevideo, from the Fort on the Mountain 33 

Portrait of President Urquiza 41 

Marking Cattle 54 

San Jose, the Estancia of Urquiza 56 

The Galera 58 

College of Concepcion 60 

Corrientes — Upper End 102 

Corrientes — Lower End 102 

Use of the Lasso and Bolas.. 112 

Portrait of President Lopez 117 

Asuncion — First View 121 

Asuncion — Second View 121 

The Cabildo, Asuncion 123 

The Cathedral, Asuncion 124 

Curing Yerba 137 

Meeting Indians on the Chaco 149 

Termination of Spur of Ytapucu Gazo 153 

Pan de Azucar 163 

Fort Bourbon, or Olimpo 168 

Fort Coimbra 178 

Saddle-shaped Mountain 185 

Corumba 187 

Plaza of Albuquerque 189 

Lengua Indians at Salvador 197 

Portrait of Francia, the Dictator 202 

Costumes of the Interior 209 

Dinner at the Puerta del Estado 214 

Crossing the Taquari 219 

v Mate and Bombilla 227 

Supper at San Martin 230 

Steamer Pilcomayo and Paraguay Guardia 246 

Indians fishing in the Vermejo 252 

Passing the Guardia Tres Bocas 278 

Attack upon the Water Witch 306 

Chart of the Mouth of the Parana 309 

Shooting a Jaguar 341 

Tropa of Carretas encamped 357 

Pursuit of the Indians 379 

Attack at the Paso Mistol 390 

A Gaucho 396 

An Estanciero 420 

Sierra Siete Punto 438 

Portrait of Ignatius Loyola 465 

Diagrams of Observations 605-6 

. 2 



INTRODUCTION. 



Theee are circumstances connected with the origin and organ- 
ization of the " La Plata Expedition" which may be interesting 
to the reader, as an Introduction to the Narrative of the Expe- 
dition. 

In the year 1851 I returned from a cruise on the East India 
Station, having spent the greater portion of three years in the 
Chinese waters. While in the neighborhood of Canton I often 
enjoyed the society and conversation of my friend, Mr. E. B. 
Forbes, at that time the head of the house of Eussell and Com- 
pany, whose experience in the navigation of the Chinese seas had 
made him aware of the great defects of our best charts of those 
waters. One day, while seated in his veranda at Macao, indulg- 
ing in a Manilla cheroot, and admiring the scenery around the 
harbor, he remarked that, considering the importance and value 
of our trade with China, we needed more accurate surveys to 
point out the dangers that beset the navigator at every league in 
those waters. 

I was impressed by the suggestion, and replied that I would 
gladly undertake the work, under the orders of government. It 
was agreed that, upon our return home, we should make a joint 
effort to induce the government to carry our views into effect. 
The importance of the subject was perceived by Congress and the 
Navy Department; and when it became evident that the project 
was to be carried out, I was informed by Mr. Graham, then Sec- 
retary of the Navy, that I was to be intrusted with the execution 
of the survey. 

I thereupon, after consultation with Mr. Forbes, presented to 
Congress a statement as i ^ the number and kind of vessels re- 
quired, and the amount needed for their construction. A pro- 
peller and two schooners were recommended, and the appropria- 
tion was made, in accordance with my estimates. 

A change took place in the Navy Department. Mr. Graham 
resigned, and Mr. Kennedy was appointed Secretary of the Navy. 



XX 



INTRODUCTION. 



Meanwhile the " China Sea and Behring's Strait Survey"* was 
expanded from its original unpretending design into an expedi- 
tion upon a large scale for the investigation of every branch of 
natural science, involving the employment of a squadron of five 
vessels, with a sloop of war as "flag-ship," and a corps of scientific 
persons. 

My position on the Naval Eegister was that of lieutenant. 
This was urged as a bar against my appointment to this impor- 
tant command, which was accordingly assigned to one of higher 
rank — a commander. I was somewhat annoyed that my bantling 
had grown entirely beyond my control, and asked to be excused 
from occupying the position of second in command, which was 
tendered to me by the Secretary. In doing this, I made known 
my agency in originating and prosecuting the measure. 

A few days after, I was offered the command of an expedition 
for the exploration and survey of the Rio de la Plata and its 
tributaries. The same day's mail brought me another offer of 
service, made through the influence of friends, and highly flatter- 
ing to me personally and professionally. I accepted the former. 

Congress made no special appropriation for this work. To Mr. 
Fillmore, then President, and to Mr. Kennedy, the Secretary 
of the Navy, belongs the credit of assigning this particular duty 
to the Water Witch, as one of the vessels of the squadron on the 
coast of Brazil. She was officered, manned, and equipped in the 
usual manner of vessels of her class, with the exception that her 
armament was changed to three bronze howitzers. She was also 
furnished with a few astronomical instruments, and a small pro- 
vision of materials for the collection and preservation of speci- 
mens in Natural History. 

The explorations, a narrative of which is contained in the fol- 
lowing pages, embraced an extent of about three thousand six 
hundred miles by water, and of four thousand four hundred miles 
by land through Paraguay and the Argentine Confederation. In 
connection with the other duties assigned to me by my instruc- 
tions, I was intrusted with diplomatic powers to negotiate a treaty 
of friendship and commerce with the government of Paraguay. 
Although no naturalist accompanied the expedition, the letters 

* Thr> Behring's Strait clause was an addition suggested by the intelligent Su- 
| erintendent of the National Observatory, whose investigations into the various 
whaling regions of the globe had led him to see the defects of our charts of that 
region. 



INTRODUCTION. xx j 

and reports of scientific men, to whose inspection some of the col- 
lections have been submitted, will show to what extent my in- 
structions in this respect have been carried out. 

When I presented to the Secretary of the Navy my "Keport 
of the Exploration and Survey of the Eiver La Plata and its Trib- 
utaries," I anticipated making one more full and copious at a sub- 
sequent period. The Secretary, however, expressed himself sat- 
sfied with that document ; but I was not. I found that a desire 
had been awakened for a knowledge of that country which could 
not be comprised within the limits of a preliminary report. This 
having been published in some .of the leading journals of this 
country and of Europe, I received many letters asking "for more 
detailed information respecting that section of South America." 
But for these inquiries, I believe I should have shrunk from the 
task of preparing a work for publication during my only hours of 
leisure after discharging the duties of "an office for the construc- 
tion of charts of the La Plata Expedition," and amid other inter- 
ruptions of an official character. But my journals contained am- 
ple materials for a book, and it seemed more easy to arrange this 
material into a narrative of the expedition, than to answer the nu- 
merous letters which continued to pour in upon me. Accompa- 
nying the narrative are a few chapters giving an outline sketch 
of the history of La Plata, and an account of the Jesuit missions 
in the country. 

In presenting this volume to the public, I can claim for it no 
special consideration on the ground of artistic arrangement or lit- 
erary merit. For its favorable reception I rely mainly upon the 
importance of the matters of which it treats. 

To the Smithsonian Institute I am indebted for aid in provid- 
ing the means necessary for the collection and preservation of 
specimens in Natural History, and for valuable information as to 
their application. Also to M. F. Maury, U. S. N., Superintend- 
ent of the Naval Observatory, for the selection of instruments, and 
for valuable suggestions in the prosecution of several important 
portions of our work. Special thanks are also due to Mr. George 
W. Blunt, of New York, and Mr. E. B. Forbes, of Boston, men 
who are always prompt in the advocacy and support of all meas- 
ures having for their object the extension of the bounds of science 
and of commerce ; to the officers attached to the expedition, who 
labored with intelligence and energy until its results were embod- 
ied in well-executed charts : and to Lieutenant H. N. Harrison, 



xxii INTRODUCTION. 

who, in connection with other office duties, reduced the meteoro- 
logical observations presented in the Appendix. The American 
Geographical and Statistical Society took an early interest in the 
exploration of the Eiver La Plata. At a meeting held May 11th, 
1852, a memorial upon this subject, prepared by S. De Witt 
Bloodgood, Esq., was adopted, and ordered to be transmitted to 
the Secretary of the Navy. This will be found in the Appendix.* 

Fully impressed with the importance, commercially as well as 
scientifically, of extending the examination, already so successful- 
ly carried on, into the principal tributaries of the central waters of 
La Plata, which neither time nor events permitted during the late 
exploration, I set to work, after my return home, immediately on 
the meeting of Congress, and, through the interest taken in the 
matter by the able Senator from Louisiana, Mr. Benjamin, pro- 
cured the passage of an act appropriating a small sum for the far- 
ther prosecution of my late work. Under a contract with the 
Navy Department, a suitable iron steamer was built by Mr. E. B. 
Foebes of Boston, and chartered to the government. Although 
of small dimensions — length. 98 feet, beam 16, and draught 4 — she 
was taken out to Monte Yideo under sail, rigged as a " three-mast- 
ed schooner," and arrived safely early in the month of March of 
the present year (1858), after a passage of about 70 days. The 
officers associated with me in this expedition sailed in. February, 
and arrived out in time to receive the little steamer, which I have 
named Argentina. 

My duties in connection with the construction of the charts of 
the previous expedition claimed my attention at this time, and, 
before their completion, my services having been required by the 
Navy Department in the organization of the force designed to op- 
erate against Paraguay in the demand for redress against that gov- 
ernment, I was detained by order of the Secretary for this duty. 

The position assigned me — under the gallant senior officer of 
the navy, Wm. B. Shubrick, flag-officer— as Captain of the Fleet 
of the Brazil Squadron and Paraguay Expedition, will enable me 
to apply my best energies to the accomplishment of the great ob- 
jects in view; and when these shall have been obtained, I look 
with sanguine hope to the final completion of that not less impor- 
tant work, the continuation of the exploration of the tributaries of 
La Plata. 

Washington, October, 1858. 

* Sec Appendix I. 



LA PLATA, 



THE 



ARGENTINE CONFEDERATION, 



AND 



PARAGUAY. 



LA PLATA. 



CHAPTEE I. 

Urquiza's Decree, opening the "Waters of La Plata. — The Expedition. — Its Ob- 
jects. — The Water Witch. — Her Sea Qualities. — The "Voyage. — Arrival at Kio 
de Janeiro. — Correspondence with the Government. — Permission granted to as- 
cend to Albuquerque. — Further Extension of this Privilege. — Pamperos. — The 
Morgan Wheel. — French Charts. — Arrival at Montevideo. — Quarantine. — Yel- 
low Fever.— Montevideo. — Its Trade and Population. — Colonel Paunero. 

The historical chapters appended to this narrative will present 
a detailed account of the political affairs of the countries adjacent 
to the Eiver La Plata. At present it is only necessary to premise 
that in the movement against Oribe, Urquiza and the Emperor of 
Brazil had in view one great object — the opening of the river 
communications of La Plata to commerce. After the defeat and 
flight of Eosas, and the election of Urquiza as Provisional Direct- 
or of the Argentine Confederation, one of the first measures of his 
administration was a decree, issued August 28th, 1852, declaring 
the navigation of the rivers of the Confederation free to all flags, 
the decree to take effect the 1st of October of the same year. The 
seal of many navigable waters, offering communication with the 
Atlantic to a region of country embracing not less than 800,000 
square miles, was thus broken. A vast territory was not only 
opened to commerce, but the most liberal inducements were given 
to immigration. Eesults, even at this early period, attest the sa- 
gacity of Urquiza, and foreshadow the prosperity to which that 
portion of South America will attain under his enlightened ad- 
ministration. 

The government of the United States was the first to avail it- 
self of the opportunity thus offered to all maritime nations to ob- 
tain a more extended knowledge of La Plata. An expedition 
charged to explore its rivers, and to report upon the extent of 
their navigability and adaptation to commerce, was placed under 
my command in February, 1853. 



26 THE WATER WITCH. 

These were its first objects ; but my instructions covered a 
much, wider field. I was ordered to penetrate into the interior of 
the countries of La Plata, to examine their agricultural resources, 
and to make such collections in Natural History as the means at 
my disposal would permit.* In addition to this service, I was 
honored by the President, Mr. Fillmore, with a commission to 
negotiate individually, or jointly with Messrs. Schenck and Pen- 
dleton, our ministers to Brazil and the Argentine Confederation, 
a treaty of commerce and navigation with the Eepublic of Para- 
guay : an honor I highly appreciated, for it was entirely unsolic- 
ited. 

The Water "Witch, a steamer of four hundred tons and nine 
feet draught, was placed under my command to carry out these 
instructions. She was not altogether adapted to the work of the 
expedition, but was better suited to it than any other vessel then 
at the disposal of the Navy Department. She was, in some meas- 
ure, an experiment ship, to test the adaptation of the "Morgan 
wheel" to steamers, an experiment which caused delay and em- 
barrassment throughout the prosecution of the work. The oper- 
ations of the expedition were circumscribed by graver obstacles, 
to which I shall allude in the course of my narrative. It never- 
theless embraced a river and land exploration of a little more than 
nine thousand miles in a country almost unknown, and established 
the navigability of waters of which the natives themselves were 
ignorant. 

Owing to the peculiar construction of the wheels of the Water 
Witch, we found it impracticable, even with the most favorable 
wind, to dispense with steam ; consequently, our course was so 
shaped as to render accessible, at short intervals, those ports 
known to be depositories of coal. We touched at the island of 
St. Thomas, at Demarara, English Guiana, Cayenne, French Gruia- 
na, Maranham, Pernambuco, and Eio de Janeiro. 

At Maranham it became necessary to raise the shaft "into 
line," it having sunk to such a degree as to affect the movements 
of the engine very sensibly. The weight of the wheels, twenty- 
four tons, added to that of the shaft, rendered this a somewhat dif- 
ficult operation with the limited means to be found on board a 
vessel of the size of the Water Witch. Necessity seldom fails to 
quicken one's ingenuity, and, fortunately, we discovered a way of 
repairing the defect. 

* See Appendix A. 



DIPLOMATIC CORRESPONDENCE. 27 

\ 

A large lighter — an open, flat-bottomed boat of the capacity of 
twenty -five tons — was secured abreast of one of the wheels, and 
filled with water. Two pieces of hard, strong timber, laid trans- 
versely across the lighter, passing under the centres and be- 
tween the arms of the wheel, and resting on the " outboard sheer 
plank" of the steamer, were there lashed. They were secured in 
the same manner to the centres and arms, and the intermediate 
spaces filled in with hard wood, thus forming a solid mass of tim- 
ber. The water was then pumped out of the lighter, which, nat- 
urally rising from its almost submerged state, raised the wheel and 
shaft sufficiently to admit the insertion beneath the "outer pillar 
block" of a plate of sheet iron, by which it was brought in place. 
The same means were used in raising the opposite end of the 
shaft. 

Having remedied this derangement, and received on board a 
supply of coal, we sailed for Eio Janeiro, touching at Pernambuco 
on our way. 

For a successful and complete exploration of the Paraguay and 
Parana Eivers, it was necessary to obtain from the Emperor of 
Brazil permission to enter that part of his empire bordering on 
these waters. In the absence of our minister, Mr. Schenck, I ad- 
dressed a note to Mr. Ferdinand Coxe, Secretary of Legation, re- 
questing him to present the subject to the Emperor, and solicit his 
favorable consideration of the work, so far, at least, as to insure to 
it the exploration of those tributaries of the Kiver La Plata over 
which the imperial government exercised exclusive jurisdiction. 
The following correspondence between our minister, his secretary 
of legation, and the minister of foreign affairs, will show the 
grounds upon which this request was made, and those which in- 
fluenced the Brazilian government in declining to accede to it. 

"United States Steamer Water Witch, ) 
Rio de Janeiro, April 26th, 1853. S* 
" Sir, — The expedition on which the Water Witch has been ordered by 
the President of the United States, having purely for its object the ad- 
vancement of commerce and promotion of science — objects interesting to all 
civilized nations, but more especially to those on whose borders or in whose 
territories its operations may extend, I wish, through the legation of the 
United States, to call the attention of the Brazilian government to this ex- 
pedition, with the hope that, through its enlightened policy, it may be dis- 
posed to forward the work with which T am intrusted, whensoever its opera- 
tions may border upon or extend into the territory of Brazil 



98 DIPLOMATIC CORRESPONDENCE. 

" Facilities might be afforded and difficulties removed by the simple act 
of approval and commendation on the part of Brazil, of which her frontier 
and inland posts could be notified m advance of the expedition. 

" You are too well aware of the good likely to result from the work we 
have in hand to require any argument from me. I therefore leave the mat- 
ter in your keeping, with the hope that your efforts to advance the aim and 
object I have in view may succeed to our entire satisfaction. 

"THOMAS J. PAGE, Lieutenant Commanding. 

"Mr. Ferdinand Cope, Secretary of Legation." 

"Legation of the United States, > 
Rio de Janeiro, April 26th, 1853.) 

" Sir, — In the absence of Mr. Schenck, I have the honor to inclose to your 
excellency a copy of a letter just received from Lieutenant Thomas J. Page, 
commanding the United States Steamer Water Witch now in this port. 
This officer has been ordered by the President of the United States upon 
the highly interesting and important duty of exploring and surveying all the 
rivers ranning into the River La Plata, and it is not doubted that the re- 
sults of the expedition will be of the highest importance to the commercial 
and scientific world, and that Brazil, as bordering upon, and at some points 
entirely inclosing the rivers it is proposed to ascend, will not be the nation 
least benefited by the operations of the expedition. 

" Your excellency will perceive, from Lieutenant Page's letter, that he 
asks from the imperial government such assistance in the object he has in 
view as may be given by orders of friendly co-operation to the imperial of- 
ficers and agents he may meet when his operations may border upon or ex- 
tend into the territory of Brazil. 

" Your excellency knows too well what these orders should be, and to 
whom they should be given, for me to do more than communicate Lieuten- 
ant Page's request, as I am confident that the enlightened views of your 
excellency will lead you to further the aim and object of the expedition by 
all the means in your excellency's power. 

" The Water Witch will leave here for Montevideo and Buenos Ayres on 
the 30th instant, and I will have much pleasure in forwarding any com- 
munication which your excellency may desire to send to those points ; and 
I avail myself of the occasion to renew to your excellency the assurance of 
my high respect and distinguished consideration. 

"FERDINAND COXE, Secretary of Legation. 
"To II. E. Paulino Jose Soares de Souza, of the Council of H. M. the 
Emperor, Minister and Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. 

[Translation.] 
" Foreign Office/Rio de Janeiro, May 4th, 1853. 
" I received, after some delay, the note which, in the absence of Mr. 
Schenck, was addressed me by Mr. Ferdinand Coxe, Secretary of Legation, 



BRAZILIAN POLICY. 29 

Tinder date of the 26th of April last, inclosing a copy of a letter he had re- 
ceived from Lieutenant Thomas J. Page, who, having been charged with 
the duty of exploring the different rivers,* affluents to ' La Plata,' asked from 
the imperial government all the assistance in its power, by means of orders 
and recommendations for a friendly co-operation on the part of the respect- 
ive authorities of the empire. In reply, I have to say to Mr. Coxe that the 
imperial government, having opened to foreign commerce, in the River Para- 
guay, the port of Albuquerque, it makes no objection to Lieutenant Page 
carrying his explorations to that point, and will send the necessary orders 
to the President of Matto Grosso, and other imperial agents, that they may 
give to Lieutenant Page all co-operation in then power ; but the imperial 
government, not having yet opened to foreign nations other ports above Al- 
buquerque, and not having yet agreed as to the navigation of these interior 
rivers with the nations on their banks \_nacoes riberinkas], it can not per- 
mit foreign vessels to enter them, and thus establish an example and prec- 
edent which might be prejudicial to the empire, as the right to the navi- 
gation of these rivers has not been settled. 

" I avail myself of this occasion to offer to Mr. Coxe the assurance of my 
esteem and consideration. 

"PAULINO JOSE SOARES DE SOUZA. 
"Mr, Fekdinaxd Coxe, Secretary of Legation." 

It will be observed that this refusal was not absolute, but that 
permission was given for the Water Witch to ascend the Para- 
guay as high as Albuquerque, a town some distance within the 
territorial limit claimed by Brazil. On our arrival at Coimbra, 
the first imperial military post on the Paraguay, I was informed 
that the privilege of ascending the river had been extended to 
Corumba, a small post about sixty miles above Albuquerque. 

Permission was, however, subsequently granted to extend the 
work throughout the Paraguay, and to any of its tributaries with- 
in the empire. It is a source of deep regret that this was received 
when circumstances beyond my control rendered it entirely im- 
possible for me to act upon it. An arbitrary decree of the Presi- 
dent of Paraguay forced me to abandon the exploration of the 
higher waters of the Parana and Paraguay, with their western and 
eastern tributaries, at the moment that our labors had reached the 
most interesting point. The events which led to this decree will 
be given in another chapter of this work. 

The able advocacy of our minister to Brazil, Mr. Schenck, 
followed by that of Mr. Trousdale, doubtless brought about this 
change in the policy of the imperial government.* I was unwill- 

* See Appendix B. 



30 A PAMPEEO. 

ing to believe that it was the fixed determination of Brazil to keep 
closed water-courses whose navigability, once established, would 
bring into easy communication with the Atlantic some of the 
richest of her northwestern provinces. I had confidence, too, in 
the reputation for learning and appreciation of science which dis- 
tinguished his imperial majesty, and therefore sought the earliest 
opportunity, by correspondence with our minister at Eio de Janei- 
ro, to bring the subject before him again. 

An appropriate occasion seemed to offer itself in the change of 
our representation at that court. Mr. Trousdale, who succeeded 
Mr. Schenck, renewed the application, urging the same arguments 
that had been set forth by his predecessor. The request was 
granted ; and although, as I have stated, I was unable to avail 
myself of it, the concession proves the enlightened views of the 
emperor for the promotion of science. 

"We remained in the harbor of Eio long enough to receive on 
board such quantities of coal and provisions as the capacity of our 
steamer would allow. It was important to enter the Parana with 
as full a supply as possible ; and with the hope of slipping into 
"La Plata" in the interval of those prevailing gales called "pam- 
peros," which blow at times with great violence, I had burdened 
the little craft somewhat beyond the draught designed in her con- 
struction. This brought her rail nearer the water's edge than 
would be desirable, should she have to contend with a "pampero." 
As we approached the latitude of those winds, her qualities as a 
" sea-boat" were fully tested ; for she encountered one of these 
gales, as if it had been intended that she should prove false 
the various knowing predictions made previously to her sailing 
from the United States, that she would "never reach her desti- 
nation." 

These winds, coming from the Andes, sweep over the pampas 
unobstructed, and break upon the coasts with the terrific force of 
hurricanes. 

The waves broke over the Water Witch like a cataract, first over 
the bows, then over the stern, the water finding an outlet through 
the ports ; she, notwithstanding, struggled through them with an 
even movement of the engine, which made evident the superi- 
ority of the Morgan "action" over that of the common "radial 
wheel" for sea-steamers. Although at times nearly submerged to 
its centre, the vertical entry of its buckets into the water enabled 
it to move with uniformity, and without derangement or strain to 



THE MORGAN WHEEL. 31 

the machinery. The principle is undoubtedly a good one ; and, 
with some few changes in its application (as made to the Water 
Witch) which experience pointed out as important, it could be 
made much more effective. 

The question may nevertheless be asked, Are not the advant- 
ages of the vertical over the diagonal action counterbalanced by 
the liability of the former to derangement in the constant abra- 
sion of the bushings and casings peculiar to its eccentric arrange- 
ment ? As it was an experiment in our service, we were not pro- 
vided with the means of immediate remedy for every case, which 
caused, as I have before stated, delay and embarrassment. Expe- 
rience proved that the abrasion was tenfold greater in rivers than 
in the ocean, caused doubtless by the earthy matter afloat in fresh 
water. With a change of the eccentric from the guard (the posi- 
tion of it on board the Water Witch) to the shaft,* where any ir- 
regular movement in the latter would be common to both, and a 
substitution of steel for the composition bushings, f the disadvant- 
ages we experienced would be much diminished. It should nev- 
er, I think, be applied to steamers designed for river navigation 
unless wooden bushings be used. But its advantages at sea and in 
stormy weather were fully demonstrated in this pampero, where 
the movements of the engine, though slow, were as uniform as 
they would have been in a placid river. 

Eunning along the southern coast of Brazil near enough to 
shore to render objects on land well denned, we had an opportu- 
nity of testing the accuracy of our charts. Some proved to be 
greatly in error. I have seen no English surveys of this coast, 
but I must avail myself of this opportunity to express my high 
appreciation of the French charts over all others that have come 
under my observation. I can not give a better evidence of my 
confidence in them than to state that, though no one on board the 
Water Witch had ever before entered the estuary of St. Catharine, 
yet, guided solely by one of them, we ran in through the southern 
entrance and anchored, on a very dark night. We had " made the 
headlands" before the closing in of day, and while " standing into" 
the harbor, the roar of the breakers on either side warned us of the 

* Since writing the above, Mr. Brown exhibited to me, December 15, 1857, in 
Washington, a patented invention of his, made in 1853, with the eccentric applied 
to the shaft inside of the wheel. 

f It has been satisfactorily determined that wooden bushings of lignum-vita?, 
locust, or any such woods, are preferable to either brass or steel. 



32 MONTEVIDEO. 

narrowness of the pass. On the following day we passed up the 
estuary, the harbor chart being our only pilot through the wind- 
ings of the channel, the depth of which in many parts was only 
from one to two feet greater than the draught of the steamer. 

A few days after the gale which tested so fully the powers of 
our little craft, we bade adieu for a time to old ocean, and, under 
the cheering influence of a bright morning sun, passed Santa 
Maria, the northern cape of the mouth of " La Plata." Our feel- 
ings may be imagined on entering this vast reservoir of great 
rivers and a multitude of smaller waters, which coursed through 
lands so invested with the interest of the unknown that, in con- 
templating them as the scene of our labors for some years to come, 
we felt all the enthusiasm of explorers, hoping to add largely to 
geographical knowledge. The'Kiver " La Plata" should be called 
an estuary, being 170 miles wide at its mouth, and 180 in length. 

We continued our course, and toward midnight, guided by the 
revolving light of the " Mount" (from which the city derives its 
name) and the lights of the town, we reached the anchorage safe- 
ly. Bounding close under the stern of a large ship, though it 
was very dark, I became satisfied of her identity, reported the ar- 
rival of the steamer Water Witch, and asked, "Is that the frigate 
Congress?" The reply from the officer of the deck was in the 
affirmative. We exchanged the usual compliments, and soon 
the little craft was at anchor "alongside the flag-ship" of one of 
the most gallant officers of the navy, the late Commodore Isaac 
M'Keever. 

We had sailed from an infected district (Eio Janeiro), where the 
yellow fever was raging, and had escaped without a single case ; 
but there is no appeal from the laws of quarantine, and, notwith- 
standing the perfect health of officers and crew, we were subject- 
ed to the usual imprisonment. Few so well as sailors know the 
pleasure and eagerness with which ships from n home" are greeted 
by those on foreign stations ; but we could not communicate with 
our friends on board the "frigate" without subjecting them to the 
detention which awaited us ; therefore, after the lapse of a few 
hours, we entered the harbor, and anchored in that quarter as- 
signed to vessels in quarantine. 

Until within a few years, the health of Eio de Janeiro, next 
to the security and magnificence of its harbor, had formed 
its greatest attraction to vessels trading or cruising on the Bra- 
zilian coast; but in 1849 the yellow fever was brought to this 



MONTEVIDEO. 



33 



jMr j|itaduHl| 











beautiful region from the 
coast of Africa, and it has 
increased vastly the mortal- 
ity. It is said, however, now 
to be on the decrease. Per- 
haps I am hasty in adopting 
the most generally received 
opinion of its origin by ships 
from the African coast, for 
medical men are by no 
means agreed on this point, 
some attributing it to lo- 
cal influences, there having 
been, during the prevalence 
of this fever, not only a ces- 
sation of storms, great stag- 
nation in the atmosphere, 
and other meteorological 
changes, but, of late years, 
an increased malignancy in 
the types of fever preva- 
lent. Again, it is worthy 
of note, that from Eio it has 
extended in a northerly di- 
rection, visiting all the cit- 
ies of the coast of Brazil. 
"La Plata," so far, has been 
exempt. Montevideo and 
Buenos Ayres, with a pop- 
ulation, the former of one 
hundred and twenty, the lat- 
ter of forty thousand souls, 
have never been troubled 
by this scourge.* 

Montevideo, the chief 
town and capital of Uru- 
guay, is the first consider- 

* The above had scarcely been 
written when the intelligence ar- 
rived that the fever had reached 
Montevideo in the spring of 1857. 



34 MONTEVIDEO. 

able port on "La Plata," on entering from sea, though a portion 
of the trade is shared by Maldonado, about 70 miles east of it, 
and on the same side of the river. It is situated on a peninsula, 
rising gradually to a level, with a gently rolling country, which 
extends to the "sierras" on the confines of Brazil. The extrem- 
ity of this peninsula forms the southern point to the entrance of 
the harbor. On the opposite side stands " the Mount," rising from 
the water's edge to a height of about 490 feet, and crowned by a 
small fortress, now in ruins, in the centre of which is the revolv- 
ing light to which I have alluded. The harbor, although not very 
spacious, is protected from all winds save those from the south- 
west, the quarter whence come the "pamperos." Although they 
burst over "La Plata" at this point with great violence, grave 
marine disasters seldom occur, for the " holding-ground" is good, 
and the "under tow" enables vessels to resist the force of the 
wind and ride easily at their anchors. From the mouth of the 
harbor to the inner anchorage, the depth varies from 12 to 18 
feet. 

Notwithstanding the depressed state of trade, in consequence of 
the nine years' siege of Oribe, its occupation by foreign troops, 
and the destruction of the cattle- — one great source of wealth to 
the province — Montevideo has increased in population, and in its 
domestic architecture there has been great improvement. For- 
merly the buildings were uniformly of one story, with " azoteas ;" 
now they are of two and three, and finished in the handsomest 
modern style. The usual materials for building are brick and 
stone. The latter is generally covered with stucco, which the 
equable climate preserves in perfection. The city has extended 
far beyond its original limits defined by the old wall and ditch ; 
and when civil and foreign wars shall cease to distract this coun- 
try, I can well imagine that it will offer many attractions as a res- 
idence, both socially and commercially. 

Before sailing from Montevideo I called on Colonel Winejieslao 
Paunero, an officer of the War Department, and brother-in-law of 
the late President Bolivian of Bolivia, and obtained from him the 
loan of a very handsomely executed map of that state, from which 
I took a tracing, as it seemed to be authentic, and of more recent 
date than any I had seen. This map was executed under the ad- 
mi nistration of General Bolivian. Colonel Paunero remarked that 
he would take much pleasure in presenting it to me for the ben- 
efit of the expedition ; but as it was left to him as a legacy by his 



AKRIVAL AT BUENOS AYRES. 35 

deceased friend and relative, he must forego the gratification of 
doing so. He seemed greatly interested in our work, and sent 
me a letter of introduction to the Bolivian charge at Buenos Ayres, 
Senor Don Juan de la Cruz Bennavento, whom I found enthusi- 
astic on the subject of our expedition, hoping that it might be 
the means of establishing the practicability of some outlet for 
the products of his isolated country through the waters of " La 
Plata." 



CHAPTER II. 

Arrival at Buenos Ayres. — Its Site. — Winds. — Higueritas. — Trade. — Buildings.— 
Fruits and Plowers. — Landing at Buenos Ayres. — Besiegers and Besieged. — Our 
Ministers. — Treaty with President Lopez. — Urquiza's Army. — Visit at Head- 
quarters. — Personal Appearance of the General. — He interests himself in the 
Expedition. — Detention at Buenos Ayres. — Letter from Mr. Pendleton. — Treach- 
ery in the Squadron. — Joint Treaty of Navigation. — Martin Garcia Channel. — 
New Channel discovered. — Letter from Messrs. Schenck and Pendleton. — Break- 
ing up of the Siege. — Senor Urquiza and Staff on board the Water Witch. — Pa- 
lermo, the former Residence of Rosas. — The Dictator and his Daughter Manu- 
elita. — Urquiza's Dog. — The Director's Demeanor. — The Voyage. — Ladies on 
board. — Temperance of Urquiza. — He leaves the Water Witch. — Return to 
Buenos Ayres. — Tribute to British Officers. 

On the afternoon of the 24th of May we sailed from Monte- 
video, and arrived the following morning at Buenos Ayres. We 
had gained time, and, from the width of the river, and the unat- 
tractive character of its shores, had lost nothing by passing this 
distance — one hundred miles — in the night. Admirable surveys 
of this part of " La Plata" have been made by the English, and the 
navigation between the two cities is attended with no difficulties, 
provided due attention be paid to the tides and the lead. Vessels 
of eighteen feet draught may with safety reach the outer roads of 
Buenos Ayres — the anchorage of all men-of-war, and merchant- 
men drawing more than twelve feet. However, the distance of 
this anchorage from the city (four miles) renders the labor and 
expense of discharging cargo very great. Sometimes a detention 
of months at a time is caused by wind and weather. 

The trade of Buenos Ayres should be confined to vessels not 
exceeding a draught of twelve feet, for such could enter the inner 
roads at ordinary high water, and no danger need be apprehend- 
ed even should they take the bottom. The southeast winds, 



36 SITE OF BUENOS AYRES. 

which alone produce a sea at all to be apprehended, cause a rise 
of the water which increases its depth some six or eight feet ; 
and the north wind, which diminishes the depth, will not produce 
a sea sufficient to cause a vessel to thump, although she may be 
resting on the bottom. 

The explorations of the first settlers of La Plata were to the 
west, seeking the auriferous lands which the Indians described as 
in that direction, or to open a communication with the conquests 
of Pizarro and Almagro. The hope of ultimately effecting this 
great object undoubtedly influenced Mendoza, and subsequently 
De Garay, in selecting the site of Buenos Ayres. They were cer- 
tainly not wholly influenced by considerations of its advantageous 
position as the great commercial city of the country, for a more 
thorough examination would have revealed to them a point on 
the Uruguay, about fifty miles distant, in every way adapted to 
the wants of an extended commerce ; a port (Higueritas) at which 
vessels could ride safely at anchor, discharge and receive cargo 
at all times. We must, however, remember that in their wild- 
est dreams of the future, even to the close of the eighteenth cen- 
tury, the colonists of La Plata could not have foreseen the trade 
of the world as it is now carried on, in ships and steamers of ten 
and twenty times greater tonnage than the small craft in which 
the Spanish mariners so boldly launched forth in unknown seas. 
To reach Higueritas, vessels must first pass the bar of San Juan, 
over which there will not be found more than fifteen feet water, 
unless when the southeast winds are blowing. 

Notwithstanding the unfavorable position of Buenos Ayres as 
a commercial town — which, to some extent, would have been rem- 
edied by a more enterprising people — as the port of entry for the 
exports and imports of the whole Argentine Confederation, it has 
steadily progressed in population and commerce. Its importing 
and exporting trade is chiefly in the hands of foreigners, English, 
Americans, and French ; and though the civil wars which have 
distracted the provinces since their independence have dimin- 
ished the number of horned cattle, and the frequent blockades to 
which it has been subjected have equally interrupted all foreign 
importations, the resources of the interior provinces are so ex- 
haustless, the foreign population of the city so large, that it seems 
only destined to encounter these disasters to recover from them 
with renewed energy. The rearing of sheep has vastly increased 



THE CITY.— LANDING. 37 

the trade in wool, and the cultivation of wheat now falls little short 
of the home demand. 

A minute description of Buenos Ayres would be a twice-told 
tale, but it is rapidly passing through changes which will in a few 
years make it one of the finest cities of the continent. 

In extending it, successive generations have followed the plan 
prescribed by the laws of the Indies to all the first cities of Span- 
ish America, and the Buenos Ayres of 1857 is only the city of De 
Graray embellished and extended; its rectangular streets com- 
mand in every direction long vistas, and now embrace within 
their limits dwellings possessing all the elegancies and comforts 
that Europeans and Americans have made essentials in domestic 
architecture. 

Few or no structures of great architectural merit strike the eye, 
unless we may except the churches and convents ; the former, 
built principally by the Jesuits, though massive, add nothing by 
exterior decoration to the beauty of the city. The streets are well 
paved with granite, and the environs are pleasantly dotted with 
the quintas (country-houses) of the native and foreign merchants. 
The Portends are extravagantly fond of flowers, and at these coun- 
try residences indulge their taste by cultivating in perfection the 
gorgeous flora of tropical and temperate regions. 

We also find many of the fruits and vegetables known to our 
horticulture, such as peaches, melons, tomatoes, asparagus, etc., 
grown with great success. The apples and pears of Montevideo 
are superior to those of Buenos Ayres, which must arise more from 
difference of soil than climatic influence, the regions in which these 
fruits are cultivated being very much in the same latitude ; but the 
Banda Oriental is more rolling in its surface, and thus, having a 
drier soil, is of course better adapted to such cultivation. 

The visitor of former years, who made his first appearance be- 
fore the gay crowds of the Play a in a wagon of rough boards open 
at each end, driven by a half-naked native belaboring the poor 
beasts attached to the pole by a ring, which enabled him to liter- 
ally put the " cart before the horse," can now reach the new mole 
in a boat, and ascend by flights of steps. 

The old mode of landing arose from the formation of the shore 
in front of the city, a flat tufa bottom, which extends far out, and 
renders it at low water even impossible for boats to approach 
within a quarter of a mile of the Play a. Before the mole was 
constructed hundreds of carts might have been seen waiting out 



38 NEGOTIATIONS OPENED. 

in the waters of La Plata to convey passengers and freight on 
shore, and the shouts — indeed yells of the drivers, the plunging 
of the beasts up to their bellies in the water as each boat would 
approach, made a din and confusion to which the noisy rivalry 
of hackmen at our railway stations or wharves would be com- 
parative quiet. 

On entering the "outer roads" our attention was drawn to 
the blockading squadron, under the " Argentine" flag, com- 
posed of ihree steamers, a brig, a three-masted schooner, and 
several smaller vessels, co-operating with the besieging army of 
Urquiza. 

As our steamer had only a draught of nine feet, we passed on, 
and rounding the northern end of the shoal which separates the 
"outer" from the "inner" roads, entered the latter, where lay the 
squadron of the "inside" party. This was inferior to that of the 
" outside" party, and found its protection more in the presence of 
foreign men-of-war and merchantmen than from the water-bat- 
tery which guarded the inner anchorage. A marked considera- 
tion for the lives and property of foreigners characterized the 
course of Urquiza throughout this siege. His great object seem- 
ed to be to reduce the city by cutting off supplies, and thus avoid 
the fearful loss of life and destruction of property which a bom- 
bardment or assault would have caused. 

Arrived at Buenos Ayres, I felt that we had reached the initial 
point of our work. My first duty was to visit Mr. Pendleton, of 
"Virginia, the representative of our government near the Argen- 
tine Confederation, and the public authorities of the place. In 
co-operation with Mr. Schenck, of Ohio, our minister to Brazil 
(who had visited Buenos Ayres for the purpose), Mr. Pendleton 
was engaged in negotiating a treaty with the "Provisional Di- 
rector." I informed them of my letters of credence to the Presi- 
dent of Paraguay, and my joint commission from the President 
of the United States, wherein Mr. Pendleton, Mr. Schenck, and 
myself were authorized and empowered to conclude a "treaty of 
commerce" with that republic. 

My letters of instructions invested me with full powers to act 
individually, should it not be proper or convenient for these gen- 
tlemen to absent themselves from Buenos Ayres, the scene, as we 
have shown, of important events at this time. Mr. Pendleton in- 
formed me that, having been invited by Sir Charles Hotham, the 
British minister at Buenos Ayres, to accompany him to Para- 



VISIT TO SAN JOSE. 39 

guay, lie had accepted the invitation, and availed himself of the 
opportunity, at the same time, with the ministers of England, 
France, and Sardinia, to negotiate and sign a treaty of navigation 
and commerce with President Lopez. 

I was naturally anxious to see the distinguished author of a 
decree which had opened, for the first time, the valuable re- 
sources of so fruitful a region to the commerce of the world. Ke- 
garded only as a political move, it gave evidence of forecast and 
sagacity far in advance of the age of '• his people ;" added to this, 
it was a very essential point to obtain his good- will and favorable 
consideration for the objects of the expedition, so that no impedi- 
ments should embarrass its progress while operating within the 
territory of the Argentine Confederation. 

I expressed this wish to Mr. Pendleton, who immediately offer- 
ed to call with me at San Jose de Flores, a quinta but a short 
distance beyond the suburbs of the city, where General Urquiza 
held his head-quarters. 

Having obtained the necessary permission, granted only to 
the representatives of foreign powers, we started for San Jose, 
accompanied by Mr. Schenck. After riding through many bar- 
ricaded streets, a ponderous gate swung back to give us egress; 
in going through which, we passed over a subterranean mine with 
train laid. The marks of war were upon the deserted and batter- 
ed houses, which, standing between the line of the besieging army 
and city, had suffered in the skirmishing that occasionally took 
place. After riding a mile and a half in the country, we ob- 
served a group of officers lounging before a quinta. There was 
little of the pomp and circumstance of war about the quarters 
of Urquiza, and yet he commanded an effective army of gauchos. 
Climate and the habits of these soldiers rendered an elaborate 
commissariat entirely unnecessary ; their food was beef, and beef 
only, without bread or vegetables ; the forage of their horses the 
grass of the pampas. From the spirit with which many groups 
seemed to be amusing themselves, and the careless indifference 
of others lounging and sleeping on the ground, one might have 
supposed it the bivouac of a victorious army. 

As we approached the quinta, several officers came forward to 
meet us, and said that our visit would be immediately announced 
to the general, who had not yet risen, having the night before 
given a ball, at which the dancing was kept up until daylight. 
While waiting for him, we sauntered through the grounds, where 



40 URQUIZA. 

we were joined by four other gentlemen, introduced as deputies 
from the Congress of Santa Fe, who had brought to the Provis- 
ional Director the Constitution which was to be submitted to the 
provinces for their adoption. It was modeled, they told us, upon 
that of the United States, save in a few points, where it would 
have been totally inoperative. 

We were soon summoned to the presence of Urquiza, a stout, 
well-formed person, of medium height, with fine, piercing eyes, 
and frank countenance. His dignified but highly courteous man- 
ners at once impressed me favorably. If " without education," 
" a mere gaucho," as I was told by many, he has a natural intelli- 
gence and bold capacity which will enable him to administer with 
ability the responsible duties imposed on him by the people of 
the Argentine Confederation. 

Our minister was unbounded in his expressions of admiration 
for this " man of the times. ;" an opinion which impressed me 
favorably, knowing his familiarity with the political events which 
had brought Urquiza into so distinguished a position before the 
world. 

After some general conversation upon local questions, the sub- 
ject of the expedition was introduced, and I was exceedingly 
gratified at the interest he expressed for its success. He seemed 
readily to comprehend the benefit which La Plata would derive 
from my anticipated surveys ; and, as an evidence of his approval 
of the work, and of his good wishes fcfr its success while operating 
within the jurisdiction of the Argentine states, he sent for his 
secretary, and directed him to make out the following instructions 
to the authorities of the Eiverine Provinces : 

[Translation.] 

"Long live the Argentine Confederation." 
" The Provisional Director of the Argentine Confederation." 

" The American steamer of war Water Witch, from the United States 
of North America, having arrived in the River La Plata, and her captain, 
Thomas J. Page, having expressed his desire to navigate the rivers of the 
Argentine Confederation for scientific purposes, I enjoin and command the 
authorities of the Riverine Provinces that they will not present any impedi- 
ments to his exploration, but afford him all the assistance he may need or 
require. "JUSTO J. UKQUIZA. 

"San Jose de Flores, May 27, 1853." 

The promptness with which this order was issued gave me an 



URQUIZA, 



41 




JCSTO J. UBQUIZA, PRESIDENT OF THE ARGENTINE CONFEDERATION. 



insight into his quick and decisive manner of transacting busi- 
ness. In returning to the city, though no danger could be appre- 
hended, as an act of courtesy he ordered an escort, commanded 
by one of his favorite officers, to accompany us beyond the lines 
of the besieging army. 

I anticipated no detention in Buenos Ayres beyond what might 
be necessary in examining and procuring papers and documents 
which I deemed of importance toward facilitating our progress 
in the exploration of rivers over which, at different points, the 
neighboring nations — Brazil, the Argentine Confederation, Para- 
guay, Bolivia, and Uruguay — claimed jurisdiction, some concur- 
rent, others exclusive ; but an unbroken chain of circumstances 



42 DELAYS. 

occurred to keep us for some months, during which the "Water 
Witch was entirely diverted from the original objects of the ex- 
pedition. 

I appointed, at different times, a day for sailing, supposing her 
services would no longer be required ; but before that day would 
arrive, unlooked-for emergencies arose, causing a still longer de- 
tention. I consoled myself with the reflection that she was en- 
gaged in important public service in facilitating treaty negotia- 
tions, which, as represented by Mr. Schenck to the State Depart- 
ment, "could not have been concluded without her."* There 
was no other vessel of war in port, and, from the state of contend- 
ing parties, the services of one might be required at any time, to 
afford protection to American citizens. 

At last an early day in July was fixed upon to begin our work, 
and, on informing General Urqurza of this determination, and of- 
fering to take charge of any communications he might desire to 
have delivered in our route, I received from him a letter of intro- 
duction to President Lopez, in which he alluded to the expedi- 
tion as a work designed for scientific purposes, and commended it 
to his favorable consideration. 

The officers looked forward with impatience to the commence- 
ment of the legitimate work of the expedition, and I had com- 
pleted every arrangement for leaving Buenos Ayres, when I re- 
ceived the following letter from Mr. Pendleton : 

"Legation of the United States,^ 
Buenos Ayres, July 3d, 1853. j 
" My dear Sir, — I am aware of your great anxiety to proceed up the 
river in pursuance of the objects of the expedition under your command, and 
it is therefore with very great reluctance that I take leave to suggest to you 



* Extract of a dispatch from K. C. Schenck, Esq., to the Secretary of State: 

" Legation of the United States, "i 
Rio de Janeiro, August 23d, 1S53. / 

" I desire also to express to you a very high sense of the important services ren- 
dered to us by Lieutenant Thomas J. Page, commanding the U. S. steamer 'Water 
Witch.' Without his various services and assistance in carrying General Urquiza 
and his staff, Avhen they retired from Buenos Ayres; in conveying Mr. Pendleton 
and myself afterward to Entre Eios, and in other duties which he, with his ship, 
was able to perform, I hardly know how we could have succeeded in bringing our 
negotiations to so successful a conclusion. The presence of the ' Water Witch' for 
several weeks, at that particular juncture, was invaluable, and all her movements 
strikingly exemplified the necessity of having a vessel of her kind and class, on al- 
most all occasions, in the River Plate." 



SIEGE OF BUENOS AYKES. 43 

that it is very desirable you should remain a few days longer in the port of 
Buenos Ayres. 

" Events of importance, and of a decisive character, in respect to the con- 
dition of this city and province, are, in my opinion, at hand. No American 
man-of-war is in the river ; Captain Downing, with the Jamestown, having 
suddenly, and without any correspondence or consultation with me on the 
subject, cleared out, as I have informally learned, to proceed to Rio Janeiro 
for the alleged purpose of having his ship caulked. 

" I would not make this request but for the strongest conviction on my 
own part that the events referred to are, almost certain, and for the farther 
fact that I am urged to do so by many American citizens resident in Buenos 
Ayres, and that I have also the concurrence of Mr. Schenck, who desires me 
to say so to you. JOHN S. PENDLETON. 

"Capt. Thomas J. Page, commanding U. S. steamer Water Witch.'" 

I felt it my duty to accede to this request, as the event alluded 
to in the letter of our Charge was that some movement of the be- 
sieging army against the city was imminent ; that foreigners, and 
all neutral persons, would be informed, in a day or two, of the in- 
tention of Urquiza to bombard the town ; but an extraordinary 
occurrence saved Buenos Ayres from this infliction. 

Our greatest amusement, after this new and unlooked-for aspect 
of affairs, was to watch the movements of the blockading squadron, 
and those of merchantmen seemingly running the blockade. Yery 
perplexing were the efforts of the first in pursuing and never over- 
taking vessels deeply laden with flour and many other creature 
comforts, which would undoubtedly enrich the lucky merchant to 
whom they were consigned, and feed the hungry population whom 
Urquiza hoped to starve into terms. The skill was wonderful 
with which this squadron fired only to miss those running store- 
houses ; and its manoeuvres not to intercept ships — to which, for 
an ample "quid pro quo," permission had been already given to 
enter — most amusing. 

There was treachery somewhere, but, before Urquiza was aware 
of it, all was consummated by the commander-in-chief; and in full 
view of the foreign, national, and commercial ships in the inner 
and outer roads, and an immense concourse of people evidently 
gathered on the Plaza to witness the scene, the squadron was de- 
livered up to the "inside" party. 

We at first watched the movements of these vessels with inter- 
est and excitement as they came in one after the other, expecting 
to witness a fair fight ; but, as we saw the rigging manned, and 



44 MEDIATION OF FOREIGN MINISTERS. 

listened to the hearty cheers of both sides, as each steamer and 
vessel entered and anchored ; when we had seen the officers go 
deliberately on shore, where they were received with the most en- 
thusiastic demonstrations of joy, our contemptuous indignation 
may be imagined. 

Public rumor pronounced this act the consummation of a bar- 
gain, and even went so far as to specify the sum of 13,000 ounces 
as the share of the commanding officer, with an equal amount di- 
vided among the officers and crews. For the truth of this I do 
not pretend to vouch. I give it as a rumor of the time, generally 
credited. " The game was well worth the candle." The players 
knew well that, without the co-operation of the blockading squad- 
ron, there could be no reduction of the city. By its defection, a 
wide gate was opened for the introduction of supplies. 

Though a bombardment of Buenos Ayres had been considered 
imminent, it seems never to have been the intention of Urquiza to 
resort to so desperate a measure. By interrupting trade and cut- 
ting off supplies he had hoped to bring the authorities to terms. 

A fair opportunity was now presented for the mediation of the 
representatives of foreign powers. It was offered and accepted by 
the belligerent parties, and ended by the withdrawal of the be- 
sieging army. Messrs. Pendleton and Schenck took an active part 
in the negotiations, thus terminating a civil contest which, to one 
side or the other, must ultimately have been highly disastrous. 

A little before the cessation of hostilities, our representatives, 
at the same time with those of England and France, concluded a 
treaty relating especially to the navigation of the Martin Garcia 
Channel, through which the Uruguay and main branches of the 
Parana empty into La Plata. It was supposed to command ef- 
fectually the entrance of the upper waters, all vessels of more 
than eight feet draught being obliged to pass within pistol-shot 
of its shore.* 

This treaty guaranteed the free navigation of the channel to all 
foreign flags, the governments who were parties to it agreeing to 
use their influence to prevent the occupation or possession of this 

* Article 5 of treaty for the free navigation of the Rivers Parana and Uruguay, 
concluded on the 13th July, 1853 : 

"The high contracting parties, considering that the island of Martin Garcia 
may, from its position, embarrass and impede the free navigation of the confluents 
of the River Plate, agree to use their influence to prevent the possession of the said 
bland from being retained or held by any state of the River Plate or its confluents 
which shall not have given its adhesion to the principle of their free navigation. 



FREE NAVIGATION. 45 

island by any nation that should attempt to close the navigation. 
At the time of this treaty it was in possession of the Argentine 
forces, but, by the defection of their squadron, jurisdiction over it 
passed into the hands of Buenos Ayres. The surveys of the Wa- 
ter Witch subsequently disclosed a channel on the other side of 
a greater depth by two feet, and so distant as to lessen its import- 
ance as a military position. The new channel will also divide 
the jurisdiction over the passage between Uruguay and Buenos 
Ayres so long as the island shall be retained by the latter : a 
possession acquiesced in by the former, but never conceded as a 
fight. 

The entire trade of those countries, save that which might be 
carried on in vessels of small draught by Las Palmas, must pass 
through one or the other, either or both of which might easily be 
blockaded by a very small naval force in co-operation with bat- 
teries on the island. The importance of this new channel was 
strikingly exemplified in a correspondence between the ministers 
of Brazil and the government of Buenos Ayres a short time before 
its discovery. 

In February, 1855, a large Brazilian squadron passed through 
the channel of Martin Garcia on its way to Paraguay. Buenos 
Ayres complained of this as an infringement of her sovereignty, 
permission not having been obtained for the passage of these 
ships ; for, upon the ground of holding territory on both sides of 
the channel, Martin Garcia being on the* east, she based her right 
to prohibit the passage of a foreign fleet. Whether, under exist- 
ing treaties, she possessed this right, is a question to be settled by 
diplomatists; but by the discovery of the new channel, even 
should the justice of her jurisdiction over Martin Garcia be fully 
recognized, it would avail her nothing more than closing the old . 
highway, leaving a better passage, over which, at most, she could 
exercise but a concurrent power. 

- An acquaintance with the unbounded resources of the basin of 
La Plata can alone impress us with the importance of maintaining 
the free navigation of its interior waters to all flags, and the treat- 
ies between Urquiza, England, France, and the United States were 
only a consummation of the decree of August, 1852, declaratory 
of this fact. 

Buenos Ayres will scarcely be permitted by the upper repub- 
lics to renew the old exploded system of closing the rivers ; but 
she is doubtless annoyed that so enlightened an act should have 



46 NEGOTIATIONS. 

been among the first of Urquiza's administration, and is conse- 
quently disposed to regard it as one of usurpation. She surely 
can not be so blind to her own interests as not to discover that it 
is freighted with immense benefits to herself. Her geographical 
position at the very portal of these tributaries will enable her, 
with her present population and capital, not only to maintain the 
ascendency she has always held as the emporium of La Plata, 
but to become one of the greatest cities of the American conti- 
nent. 

The detention of the Water Witch was not at an end with the 
siege of Buenos Ayres ; her presence was deemed essential in facil- 
itating and carrying out some diplomatic movements to which the 
new aspect of political affairs had given rise ; and though the con- 
nection between these duties and those prescribed by my letter of 
instructions from the Secretary of the Navy may not appear at 
first sight, the sequel will show that the service was not only one 
of deep interest to our government and people, by aiding in estab- 
lishing a foundation on which individual rights in connection with 
commercial enterprises might be maintained, but at the moment 
and for all time to come it created a deep feeling of respect on 
the part of the people of the Argentine Confederation for the flag 
borne by the Water Witch. It subsequently facilitated the work 
of the expedition, and caused the officers to be received within the 
Confederation with special marks of respect and hospitality when- 
ever they were brought in contact with the authorities or people 
of the country. 

Before the close of the negotiations which resulted in an adjust- 
ment of the difficulties between the contending parties, besiegers 
and besieged, I received the subjoined note from Messrs. Pendle- 
ton and Schenck : 

"Legation of the United States, ) 
Buenos Ayres, July 10th, 1853. ) 

"Sir, — "We are engaged in some confidential negotiations at present 
which are likely to result in an accommodation of the difficulties existing 
at Buenos Ayres between the parties to the civil war. There is no absolute 
certainty as to the event, but there is a sufficient probability of success to 
justify us in requesting that you will not leave the place for a few days. 
We make this request because it is a part of the present plan that the for- 
eign men-of-war in port may convey the Provisional Director and his escort 
to the neighboring town of Gualaguaychu. 

" As important objects connected with our dutf here are likely to be at- 
tained more readily by the participation of the United States flag in this 



THE DAUGHTEK OF EOSAS. 47 

transaction, we think it very important you should remain, there being no 

other United States vessel in port. 

"ROBEET C. SCHENCK, 
"JOHN S. PENDLETON. 
"Capt. Thomas J. Page, United States Steamer Water Witch." 

I assented to this request, and the "Water "Witch participated 
with two of her Britannic majesty's steamers in the conveyance 
of the Provisional Director and his suite to the province of En- 
tre Eios. 

The representative of France likewise offered the "Provisional 
Director" the use of a national vessel, but, on repairing with the 
others to Palermo, the point of embarkation, the French steamer, 
being totally unprepared for the service, did not join the escort. 
The duty consequently devolved on H. B. M. steamers Trident, 
Lieutenant Commanding Harvey, Locust, Lieutenant Day, and the 
U. S. steamer Water Witch. Only the staff, a few civil officers 
who were with. General Urquiza, and such of the forces as had 
formed his escort, in all four hundred persons, were conveyed by 
these vessels, while the main body of the army marched by land 
to their respective destinations. 

The " Provisional Director" selected the Water Witch for the 
passage of himself and suite. 

We repaired at the appointed time to the anchorage off Paler- 
mo, the celebrated and once beautiful residence of the Dictator 
Rosas and his fair daughter " Manuelita." It is about two miles 
north, of the city, and is now occupied as a barrack for soldiers. 
Slightly elevated above the river, nature had done nothing for 
Palermo, but the taste and wealth, of Rosas had made it a paradise. 
The dictator was capable of one tender emotion, love for his fair 
and only child, and in seeking to manifest this affection, a sense of 
the beautiful in art and nature seems to have been awakened in 
the breast of this hard man. Nothing was spared that could adorn 
either dwelling or grounds. There were extensive groves of 
orange-trees, and some idea of the labor and expense bestowed on 
this domain may be gathered from the fact that hundreds of sol- 
diers cleaned their foliage leaf by leaf. The road leading to the 
city was made with care, and being adorned and shaded by large 
trees, had become the fashionable afternoon drive. Some of the 
former visitors to Palermo assured me that the* graceful manners 
of the Senorita Manuelita lent a charm to this residence which nei- 
ther art nor the lavished money of Rosas could ever bestow. 



48 UKQUIZA ON THE WATER WITCH. 

Not only the gay and fashionable claimed her society as that 
of an accomplished and elegant person, but some of the broken- 
hearted victims of Eosas' policy sought her protection and inter- 
cession, as one endowed with all the tenderest and noblest impulses 
of a woman's character. 

On the 13th of July the "Water Witch anchored off Palermo, 
and on the same day Urquiza, accompanied by Mr. Pendleton, 
came on board. He had with him a noble dog, and I was amused 
at his solicitude for the safe embarkation of this animal, which he 
saw in the boat before he would himself leave the shore. He had 
been his constant companion for many years, and the stories of 
his sagacity and fidelity were really marvelous. 

Immediately preceding the arrival of the general, under a sa- 
lute from the English and French ships, his suite, composed of 
military and civil officers, in all forty -five persons, with thirty- 
three soldiers, had embarked on board the Water Witch. The 
following day the remainder of the party was conveyed on board 
the English steamers. 

Intending to land Mr. Pendleton and receive Sir Charles Hotham, 
the British minister, who desired to visit General Urquiza, I got 
under way, and stood for the inner anchorage off the city, as the 
speediest means of accomplishing both objects. The " Provisional 
Director" sat on the quarter-deck, immovable as a statue: he 
surveyed with impassible countenance the people, who, having 
followed the movements of the Water Witch, crowded the Playa^ 
house-tops, and the shores of the river, to obtain a glimpse of him. 
In " rounding to" for the purpose of standing out of the " Eoads," 
we passed in full view of the "naval" force which had distin- 
guished itself in so extraordinary a manner. We can not but 
suppose that his breast was full of honest indignation, but not the 
movement of a muscle betrayed it. 

The English steamers had stood on their way from Palermo to 
the entrance of the Martin Garcia Channel, but ere they reached 
it the Water Witch came up with them, and led the way into the 
Uruguay. We were bound for the port of Gualaguaychu, or the 
nearest landing we could make on the river to General Urquiza's 
" estancia," 

I can well imagine that the deck of the Water Witch presented 
the appearance of a California steamer when the gold fever was at 
its height. Before we had become " shaken down," it seemed im- 
possible that her expansive power could meet the requirements 



THE VOYAGE. 49 

of her human freight. My little cabin had been arranged for the 
"Provisional Director," but, with becoming gallantry, he took a 
berth in the ward-room, yielding the claim of rank to the preroga- 
tive of " woman's rights." The wife of one of his generals, with 
her daughter, had for some months shared the dangers and discom- 
forts of the besieging army, and they now sought the protection 
of our flag. The cabin was a wee bit of a " sailor's snug harbor.'" 
ISTo crinolined lady could have found room in it for the amplitude 

of her skirts, but Senora and her daughter, during the five 

days they were with us, made themselves comfortable within its 
narrow limits. The officers cordially united with me in yielding 
their berths to our guests ; but so limited were the accommoda- 
tions of the Water Witch, that the mess-table presented a contin- 
uous scene of "fire and fall back," and, though somewhat worsted 
in the attack, maintained its ground, and stood ready to meet each 
charge. 

I was much struck with General Urquiza's extreme temperance 
in eating and drinking, a habit acquired probably in his military 
career. At an early hour a negro servant* took him. his mate. 
and at noon he dined, using water as his only beverage. The re- 
mainder of the day he ate nothing. Our guests, notwithstanding 
the crowded state of the boat, seemed to enjoy themselves, and on 
the fifth day from their reception on board we reached the an- 
chorage for Gualaguaychu, the pilot assuring us that beyond this 
we could not pass. Subsequently, when our surveys extended to 
this river, I discovered that we could have ascended to Concep- 
cion del Uruguay, where General Urquiza wished to land. 

With several of the officers I accompanied him on shore, his 
suite and escort having been landed the day before. On leaving 
the steamer, under a salute from the Locust, we were joined by 
Captain Day, and the Argentine flag was hauled down from the 
mast-head of the Water Witch. I explained to the "Provisional 
Director" my reason for not saluting — the fear of injury to the 
chronometers, upon which the success of our future work de- 
pended. 

The whole party were safely landed, and the general, in true 
Spanish style, embraced me in saying farewell, and begged that I 
would always consider him. my friend. His officers also left us 
with many expressions of gratitude, and I had the satisfaction to 

* This man had for many years been the body-servant of Urquiza, and at the 
battle of Monte Caseros came well-nigh capturing Eosas. 

4 



50 ENGLISH STEAMERS AGROUND. 

know that every effort had been made for their comfort while the 
recipients of our country's hospitalities. 

The steamer Trident had not arrived, which (anticipating no 
difficulty) we attributed to her being a " slow craft." By the time 
we returned to the Water Witch it was quite dark, and as our 
pilot was rather inexperienced, and the navigation of this part of 
the Uruguay intricate, I determined to remain at anchor until day- 
light ; however, about ten o'clock, I had a visit from Captain Day, 
who had heard from the "Trident:" she was "hard and fast" 
aground, and he requested me to accompany him, and give her 
immediate assistance. My pilot was unwilling to take the respon- 
sibility of running the steamer at night ; but, as Captain Day ex- 
pressed confidence in his man, I told him to take the lead, and I 
would follow. 

We agreed upon a signal — a gun — should the Locust run 
aground ; and, with this understanding, we moved on swimming- 
ly for some time, congratulating ourselves that the worst had been 
passed, when the concerted signal was made. On slowly coming 
up to the Locust, we discovered that she was aground. 

A hawser was made fast to her, taken on board the Water Witch, 
and with a few revolutions of the engine she was again afloat, 
when we proceeded on our way with the same arrangement of 
signals. 

A very few minutes elapsed when the gun warned us that she 
was again aground. An effort similar to the first was made to 
give her relief, but to no purpose ; under a full pressure of steam, 
she had driven her bows on a sand-bank. We came to anchor, 
and our men turned in for a few hours' rest. 

In the morning we left the "Locust" to wait for a rise of the 
tide, and proceeded to the relief of the " Trident." After making 
an ineffectual pull, we relieved her of as many of the Argentine 
soldiers as could be received on the deck of the Water Witch, and 
landed them at the same point where General Urquiza disem- 
barked. 

Again we returned to the relief of the two steamers. Finding 
the tide rising, we went first to the "Trident," and commenced 
the process of tugging ; in a short time she was afloat, and pro- 
ceeded on her course to land the remainder of the troops. The 
Locust was now free ; and, congratulating our friends upon their 
release, we made all speed on our return to Buenos Ayres. 

It gave me pleasure to be able to render even these small offices 



LETTER FROM THE MINISTERS. 51 

to our brother sailors of Old England ; for, in the various parts 
of the world where my professional duties have called me, her 
representatives, whether diplomatic, naval, or military, have uni- 
formly manifested respect for our flag, and extended to myself 
personally every courtesy as an officer of the United States Navy. 



CHAPTER III. 

Letter from Mr. Schenck. — Visit to the Estancia of General Urquiza. — Framing 
of the Treaty. — Marking Cattle. — Farm and Residence of the Director. — Os- 
triches, Partridges, and Deer: Mode of hunting them. — Horses. — Return to 
Buenos Ayres. — The Galera. — Reception at Concepcicn. — The College. — The 
Ball. — Native Grace of Spanish American Women. — Leave Concepcion. — The 
Water Witch. — Coaling at Buenos Ayres. — Final Departure for the Ascent of 
the River. 

Upon, our arrival at Buenos Ayres I found another letter await- 
ing me from Messrs. Pendleton and Schenck. It ran as follows : 

' ' Legation of the United States, 
Buenos Ayres, July 22d, 1853. 
"To Captain Thomas J. Page, U. S. Steamer Water Witch. 
" Dear Sir,— We wish very much that you would take us to-morrow to 
G-ualaguaychu, or ' Concepcion del Uruguay.' There is no other mode of 
conveyance by which it is possible for us to accomplish a highly important 
public object, no less than the making of a treaty of friendship and com- 
merce, which, if made, will fully accomplish the purposes of the special mis- 
sion to the Argentine States. 

"It is indispensable that one of us— Mr. Schenck— leave for Rio in the 
packet to sail ten days hence. With the aid of the Water Witch, we think 
the business may be done. Without it, there is no possibility of our co- 
operation in this work. Very respectfully, &c, 

"ROBERT C. SCHENCK, 
"JOHN S.PENDLETON." 

I could not hesitate as to the response, and early the following 
morning we were steaming for Gualaguaychu. In two days we 
reached the nearest point to which the Water Witch could. ap- 
proach, and anchored off the mouth of a river of the same name. 
I accompanied the ministers in a boat to the town, a distance of 
eighteen miles. 

Senores Carill and Gorostiaga, appointed by General Urquiza 
as negotiators on his part, were awaiting the arrival of our minis- 
ters. Under instructions from the Provisional Director, handsome 



52 THE TREATY. 

preparations had been made for their reception and entertainment 
at the government house. 

Accompanied by the Argentine ministers, we started the fol- 
lowing morning for the estancia* of Urquiza. Our conveyance 
was a galera, a vehicle not unlike an omnibus, and capable of 
holding comfortably ten or twelve persons ; the door behind ; it 
was drawn by four horses, each mounted by a gaucho, and at a 
gallop we passed through a gently undulating country, clear of 
wood save on the margin of the river, but covered with a luxu- 
riant growth of grass. After traveling about fifty miles, the dwell- 
ing of Urquiza appeared in sight. 

Throughout the whole distance since leaving Gualaguaychu we 
had been driving through his estancia, which extended some ten 
miles farther, embracing in one unbroken section of Entre Eios 
several hundred square miles. The soil is highly fertile, and the 
cattle, horses, mules, and sheep are superior to those of any other 
province in the Confederation. A part of this estate was tenant- 
ed out, and is appropriated almost exclusively to grazing ; but a 
fine field of wheat and thriving nursery of fruit-trees proved its 
equal adaptation to agriculture. 

On reaching the house, a cordial reception awaited us from the 
general, who came forward as we descended from the galera, and 
received our party with many kind and courteous expressions of 
welcome. He knew that our time was limited, and instructed his 
ministers to use all possible dispatch. The work was conducted 
in good faith, with an eye to the benefit of both countries, and 
ended in the conclusion of a "treaty of friendship and com- 
merce," signed immediately by the "Provisional Director," and 
since ratified by our government. 

While the treaty was being copied, we were much amused and 
interested by visits to various departments of this great estate. 
The day after our arrival, the general proposed that we should 
ride out and see the process of marking cattle. 

Mounted on beautiful horses, a gallop of a few miles brought us 
in sight of a large herd, around which were stationed mounted 
gauchos, each equipped with lasso and bolas.f The marking was 

* A cattlc-farm, but not exclusively so, where there is some cultivation of the soil. 

f The lasso is of platted hide-rope, about sixty feet in length, and three quar- 
ters of an inch in diameter, attached to the cincha, or surcingle of the recado or 
saddle at one end, and has an iron ring in the other, through which a noose is 
formed wbcn it is to be thrown. 

The "bolas" is of two kinds: that used for catching cattle consists of three 







m 






M 






MARKING CATTLE. 55 

effected by branding with a hot iron upon the rump of an animal 
a letter or character, which made it the indisputable property of 
a certain estanciero. These are registered in each district, with 
the names of the owners attached. 

When an animal is to be caught, a gaucho approaches the herd, 
with one end of the lasso attached to his cincha, holding the oth- 
er, which has a large running noose, in his right hand ; and, giv- 
ing it impetus by whirling it round his head, dexterously keep- 
ing the noose open, he throws it with unerring aim over the horns 
of the beast, and, wheeling quickly, drags him out to receive his 
brand, the whole operation not occupying a minute. But it must 
not be supposed that this is always accomplished without a strug- 
gle; at times the "marking" affords great amusement, at others 
excitement and even danger. A bullock escapes from the herd, 
chase is given, and often continued for some time before the rider 
can get within throwing distance, such is the fleetness of the wild 
cattle of the country. As the gaucho casts the lasso, he suddenly 
reins up his horse, while the animal instinctively braces himself to 
receive the shock, and the bullock is often thrown to the ground 
with such force as to make it a wonder how he escaped a broken 
neck. Then, again, on finding himself a prisoner, he will run 
round and round, dash first to one side, then to the other, plow up 
the ground, or turn and furiously attack the pursuer, who, on such 
occasions, never parts with his lasso, which he would inevitably 
lose if detached from his cincha ; and as he can not disengage it 
from the horns of the animal, he manoeuvres his horse with in- 
conceivable skill, watching, following, and anticipating every 
movement of his prisoner with the rapidity of lightning, until re- 
lieved from his perilous position by a brother gaucho, who throws 
the lasso round the hind legs of the beast. 

After being greatly amused with the "marking," we rode over 
to see the general's field of luxuriant wheat, then visited his nurs- 
ery of choice fruits, and a garden where many vegetables known 
to our markets were growing in perfection. 

His dwelling is built of stone, and in the massive style of the 

wooden balls, or stones, about three inches in diameter, covered with raw hide, 
each joined to the other in a common centre by a thong of the same of about three 
feet in length. The other is of two balls, smaller, and is used to catch ostriches. 
The gaucho holds the smallest ball in his right hand, and, giving the other two a 
rapidly whirling movement, throws them -with great velocity and unerring aim at 
the legs of the animal ; and the more he struggles to extricate himself, the more he 
becomes entangled. 



56 



URQUIZA'S ESTANCIA. 



houses of Buenos Ayres. It is of one story, forms a quadrangle 
of about eighty feet, and contains eight or ten spacious and lofty 



- 


■-;.-■■ •■—- — - 


> 


'"■SV ' <i-\ 




SAN JOSE, THE ESTANCIA OF URQUIZA. 

rooms : from the roof rose two handsome turrets, commanding ex- 
tensive views of his estancia. In every direction, his own lands 
extended far beyond the horizon ; and this was only one of sev- 
eral estates. "Within a few miles of his house he had forbidden 
his grounds to all sportsmen ; consequently, herds of deer, ostrich- 
es, and innumerable partridges, large and small, were seen in ev- 
ery direction. I counted as many as fifty ostriches in a flock, 
some of them in the court of the dwelling, and as tame as barn- 
door fowls. They are caught in great numbers ; the ostrich with 
the bolas, the small partridge with the noose, and the larger spe- 
cies with dogs. The small partridge crouches close to the ground ; 
a man on horseback, with a long stick, at the end of which is a 
noose, approaches, and rides in a circle round the frightened bird. 
As if under the influence of a spell, or charmed by the man's eye, 
it sits quietly while the rider gradually contracts the circle, until 
near enough to slip the noose over its head. 

The large partridge usually makes two, but occasionally three 
nights. On first rising it is pursued at full speed by the mounted 
gaucho and his dog; for, while on the wing, there is nothing to 
hide it from the eye of the sportsman ; and scarcely has it touched 



THE GALERA. 59 

the earth, when again it is "put up," and, flying until exhausted, 
it conceals itself in the long grass, where it is ferreted out by the 
dog. 

Some idea of the income of such an estancia as Urquiza's may be 
formed when I state that upon this of San Jose there were 70,000 
sheep, 40,000 head of cattle, and 2000 horses. Among the latter 
were several Manadas, of a beautiful mouse color, called Lobunos, 
or "otter-like;" others of Overas, or "piebald." These studs 
were carefully kept apart, to avoid any mingling of color or char- 
acteristic. I can not imagine a more beautiful sight than the herds 
of these fine animals coursing over the rich lands of San Jose. 
The value of each in the United States would reach some hund- 
reds of dollars ; here one could be bought for sixteen. 

On the third day after our arrival at San Jose, the treaty hav- 
ing been concluded and signed by the " Provisional Director," we 
prepared for our return to Buenos Ayres. The promptness and 
good faith shown in this negotiation are worthy of praise, when 
we remember that diplomacy is the forte of the Spanish American, 
and that one of their marked characteristics is to postpone for the 
morrow that which should be done to-day.* 

General Urquiza earnestly desired that in our return route we 
would stop a night at Concepcion del Uruguay,, the place of his 
birth and early life, assuring us that, though the distance was 
greater, we could spend a night at Concepcion, and yet reach 
Gualaguaychu at the time appointed for our embarkation. He 
had well calculated the speed of his own horses, and his assurance 
was realized in our arrival at the appointed time. 

A galera, drawn by four beautiful mouse-colored horses, each 
mounted by a gaucho in full costume, was brought to the door, its 
lockers abundantly supplied with wines and other creature com- 
forts. With mingled feelings of respect and esteem, we bade adieu 
to our distinguished host, and, accompanied by Senores Carill and 
Grrostiaga, and escorted by a son of General Urquiza on horseback, 
we moved rapidly over the undulating pampa, stopping only to 
change horses from the herd of " lobunos" driven for this purpose 
ahead of us. 

On our arrival at Concepcion, a pretty town of about 4000 in- 
habitants, on the Uruguay Eiver, and distant about eighteen miles 
from San Jose, we were met by the municipal authorities and 
principal inhabitants, and conducted to a spacious house prepared 
t} See Appendix C and D. 



60 



COLLEGE OF CONCEPCION. 



for our reception, Over which was immediately hoisted the Amer- 
ican flag. As we entered, a band of music in the court played 
our national air, and continued afterward with operatic pieces in 
admirable style. In short, every preparation had been made to 
give us a distinguished reception. We accepted these honors in 
the spirit that dictated them, as a tribute of respect and amity for 
the United States. 

Our first visit was to the College, established by Urquiza, where 
youths are educated at the expense of the province. The build- 




COLLEGE OF CONCEPCION. 



ing is handsome and commodious, and the benefits of this institu- 
tion are shared without partiality by rich and poor; indeed, the 
latter are more highly its recipients, for, in addition to a liberal 
education, they receive gratis both food and clothing. The pres- 
ident of the institution is Mr. La Eoque, a Parisian, and the Pro- 
fessor of English Mr. Clark, a graduate of an English college. 
These gentlemen, with ability, perseverance, and untiring zeal, 
give their best energies to the work, and would, from their per- 
sonal standing alone, offer a guarantee for its success, did we not 
know that their exertions are seconded by other professors, well 
qualified for their respective posts. It is now considered the first 
institution of the Confederation, that of Cordova, formerly so cel- 
ebrated, having dwindled to a mere provincial school. 

We were conducted through the buildings, and saw enough to 
convince us that the arrangements and system were as admirable 



RECEPTION AT CONCEPCION. 01 

for the moral and physical as for the mental training of the youth 
— indeed, quite equal to some of the institutions of our own coun- 
try. The philosophical and mathematical apparatus seemed full 
and complete, and the illustrations of the various mechanical pow- 
ers excellent. The higher branches of mathematics are careful- 
ly taught, together with the classics, English and French, and all 
those branches with us comprehended in the expression "good 
English education." Attached to the college is a primary school. 

The Secretary of the Navy had permitted my second son, a 
youth twelve years old, to accompany the expedition. I afterward 
placed him at this college, and was gratified with his progress. 

The benefits of a liberal education are now eagerly sought by 
all classes, and so numerous are the applications for admission to 
this establishment, which has ample accommodations for 160 pu- 
pils, that large additions will probably be made to its buildings, 
or similar institutions may be opened in other provinces. Music 
is one of the branches taught, and we were both surprised and de- 
lighted with the performances of a band of forty boys. Among 
them was a youth whose genius was extraordinary. He composed 
with great facility, played upon sixteen instruments, and yet he 
had never been out of the province of Entre Eios. 

This institution will ever remain a noble monument of the en- 
lightened views of Urquiza. In educating its youth, he is giving 
stability to the government of a country hitherto at the mercy of 
each military chieftain who in turn aspired to rule. I must not 
omit to mention one fact communicated to me by the president of 
the college, which reflects high honor on its founder. Occasion- 
ally the funds of the institution are not adequate to its demands ; 
and when its wants have been made known to General Urquiza, 
he has invariably, from his private resources, made ample provi- 
sion to meet them. 

On returning to the house arranged for our reception, we found 
a sumptuous dinner, with abundance of fine wines and cigars, 
awaiting us. This was followed by a ball, at which was assem- 
bled all the* beauty of the place. The dress of the fair senoritas 
showed that the prohibitory edicts of Eosas, however severely 
they may have operated upon commerce, had availed nothing in 
secluding them from a knowledge of the fashions. 

The Spanish American women have little knowledge of the 
conventionalities of other countries, but they are well bred and 
handsome. With indescribable grace and precision, these ladies 



62 RETURN TO BUENOS AYRES. 

of Concepcion (many of whom had never been out of Entre Eios) 
went through all the fashionable dances of the day, varying them 
two or three times in the course of the evening by the Spanish 
contra-dance. 

It was expected that we should be not only spectators, but ac- 
tive participators in the festivities of the evening. Not to dance, 
and dance well, would expose us to the suspicion of neglected 
education. As the diplomatic and naval representatives of the 
great republic of the North, it was necessary to avoid such an im- 
putation. "We made the effort, though we feared in doing so that 
what might have been a conjecture would remain among the fair 
women of Entre Eios " a fixed fact." 

We left Concepcion del Uruguay at an early hour the follow- 
ing morning, and, at full gallop, continued our journey in the 
galera. Our way still lay through the estancia of General Ur- 
quiza, but in a different direction from that by which we entered. 
The character of the country was materially the same, herds of 
deer, flocks of ostriches, and innumerable partridges alone break 
ing the monotony of the pampa scenery. 

Arrived at Gualaguaychu, we lost no time in procuring a sail- 
boat, hoping to reach the Water Witch that night ; but, on getting 
to the mouth of the river, we found the wind too high to attempt 
a "dead beat," our steamer being near the opposite shore of the 
Banda Oriental,* distant about six miles. 

It was the last of July, the second winter month of this lati- 
tude ; strong south winds made the night really cold, and our 
situation in the open boat for many hours was not only one of 
discomfort, but positive suffering. On reaching the Water Witch 
the next morning, and finding all ready, we weighed anchor for 
Buenos Ayres, with the earnest hope that nothing would again 
occur to divert us from the objects of the expedition. 

The Water Witch was nominally one of the vessels of the 
squadron on the Brazil station, and, though really detached for 
specific purposes, it has been shown that circumstances made it 
imperative that she should perform the duties of one in the ab- 
sence of all other vessels, and in cases where public interests were 
deeply involved. Mr. Kennedy, then Secretary of the Navy. 
with enlightened views, and a liberal exercise of the authority 
vested in him, detailed her for the scientific work on which she 

* The East Side, another name for the State of Uruguay. 



UNDER WAY. 63 

was about to enter with simply such additions to her ordinary 
outfit as a few books, instruments, and materials for the preser- 
vation of specimens of natural history, which could be supplied 
from the contingent fund of the department, in the absence of 
any appropriation by Congress. With no scientific corps on 
board, and only one or two officers over and above her ordinary 
complement, in a few weeks after she was launched from the 
navy yard of Washington we were steaming for La Plata. 

On reaching Buenos Ayres, I learned from the "consul" the 
arrival at Montevideo of a cargo of coal, sent out by the govern- 
ment for the use of the expedition, and at once proceeded to that 
place. We entered the harbor in the midst of a violent pampero, 
which continued for some days. After the storm, we took on 
board as much coal as the steamer could carry, deposited a small 
quantity on shore, and made arrangements for the transportation 
of the remainder to some point on the Parana. The freight de- 
manded for this latter service was so exorbitant — $12 per ton — that 
I found it cheaper to purchase a hulk of sufficient capacity to re- 
ceive it all. Taking this in tow, I afterward established it as a 
depot at the town of La Paz, in Entre Eios, distant about four 
hundred miles above Martin Garcia. This we found to be a con- 
venient point for coaling, either in ascending or descending the 
river. 

After a diversion of nearly four months from the legitimate 
work of the expedition, I now, for the first time, realized that we 
were fairly under way for the scene of our labors. I had the sat- 
isfaction of knowing that the time had been usefully spent in for- 
warding the diplomatic aims of the government, and in protecting 
the interests of American citizens. 



64 TAKING OBSEKVATIONS. 



CHAPTEE IV. 

Chronometers. — Determinations of Latitude and Longitude. — Construction of 
Charts. — Delta of the Parana. — Diamante. — Fruits. — Oranges. — Peaches. — 
Beautiful Scenery. — Mouths of the Parana. — The Parbon. — The Gualaguay. — 
TheKepunte. — Periodical Risings of Water. — Islands. — The Seibo and Sause. — 
San Pedro. — Obligardo. — Passage forced by the English and French. — Island 
Formations. — Variations of Channel. — Pilots. — Estancieros. — San Nicholas. — 
Rosario. — Its commercial Importance. — Advantages over Buenos Ayres. — Winds. 
— Letter of R. B. Forbes, Esq. — Banks of the River. — Convent of San Lorenzo. — 
The Tercero. — Mr. Campbell's Survey. — The Chaco Hills.— Scenery. — Diaman- 
te. — Ferries. — Trees. — The Algarroba and Espinilla. 

Taking our departure from Buenos Ayres, the point to which 
all determinations of longitude were to be referred, we passed the 
island of Martin Garcia September 1st, 1858. The rates of the 
chronometers had been repeatedly verified, and they were found 
to be uniform in every instance. The work was consequently be- 
gun with every confidence in the excellence of the instruments. 
These chronometers, five in number, had been selected by the Su- 
perintendent of the Naval Observatory for this special service. 

That the character of the work in its explorations and surveys 
may be fully understood, even by those unpracticed in such oper- 
ations, it may be proper to explain somewhat in detail the manner 
in which it was conducted. 

' That portion of it under the head of " Surveys," which may be 
seen on the map, is established on points of latitude and longitude 
determined with care by officers who were competent observers, 
and with nicely-adjusted instruments. The latitude of these points 
is derived from observations of north and south stars on the merid- 
ian, their longitude by chronometer from stars east and west of the 
meridian and from the altitude of the sun, and the variation of 
the compass from observations of the sun. These were made with 
the sextant and artificial horizon. Those made during the day 
were always taken on shore ; but at night, so perfectly motionless 
was the steamer that no difficulty was experienced in observing 
the stars with the artificial horizon on the hurricane-deck. The 
place of anchorage was thus determined every night, whensoever 
the weather would allow ; and none of the principal points were 
passed without coming to anchor, and obtaining satisfactory re- 



CONSTRUCTION OF CHARTS. 65 

suits for the establishment of their geographical position* and va- 
riation of the compass. We arrived at the distances between the 
points thus determined by reference to a uniform number of rev- 
olutions of the engine, which, in a given time, had been ascertain- 
ed to be equal, or nearly so, to a certain distance. Any erroneous 
estimate that had been made could not extend beyond the point 
'of observation, so that there was at all times a check upon any 
error of judgment or irregularity in the speed of the steamer. 

That the charts should give as faithful a representation of the 
rivers and adjacent country as the ' character of the work would 
admit of, there were at all times, when the steamer was under way, 
two officers engaged in it exclusive of myself. 

An elevated position on the hurricane-deck, which gave an un- 
obstructed view, was selected for this purpose. One of the ob- 
servers, with the chart-paper before him, projected the course and 
distance, the width and depth of the river, delineating the topog- 
raphy on either bank, while the other recorded the same in his 
note-book, together with all such remarks as would illustrate more 
clearly any peculiar characteristic, such as the growth on the banks, 
whether suitable for steamers or for other purposes. The sound- 
ings were made at intervals of five minutes when in deep water, 
but when in shoal as often as they could be had. The velocity of 
the current, which varied with the locality, was repeatedly ascer- 
tained. 

I have before alluded to the island of Martin Garcia as a mili- 
tary position of some importance, from its commanding what was 
supposed to be the most considerable channel of communication 
between the waters of the Parana and La Plata. It is of granitic 
formation, and occupies a position at the head of "La Plata" where 
this river is twenty-five miles wide, and yet at its narrowest point. 
Here also it receives its two great affluents, the Parana and Uru- 
guay, their waters uniting about twenty-four miles above this isl- 
and, and retaining the name of the latter until lost in that of " La 
Plata." 

The Parana is the more important of the two, and possesses 
already a far more extended navigation, and affluents that present 
a vast field for exploration. We first entered its waters through 
the main branch, " Parana Gruazu." 

All vessels "bound up" either the Parana or Uruguay by this 
channel must pass within range of "Martin Garcia." Exclusive 
of this and the one of greater depth subsequently revealed by the 

5 



QQ DELTA OF THE PARANA. 

surveys of the Water Witch, there are two other branches, the 
" Brasso Bravo" and "Brasso Largo," farther north, through which 
this river flows into the Uruguay, and others of less importance 
to navigation, through which it communicates directly with La 
Plata. The principal, and only one of these latter worthy of note, 
and which will become, when its entrance shall be better known, 
generally used by vessels of six and seven feet draught, is the 
passage of Las Palmas, the branch through which Sebastian Cabot 
entered the waters of the Parana, and to which he gave the name 
it now bears. 

A delta of vast extent is formed by the various branches of this 
river. Its apex, at the town of Diamante in Entre Eios, is distant 
from its base in a right line one hundred and seventy-eight miles, 
while its base, the line on which these branches empty into the 
Eiver La Plata and Uruguay, is about forty miles in extent. 

Diamante is assumed as the apex of this delta, because at that 
point, in ascending, we find, for the first time, by. the approach of 
the firm, elevated lands, the width of the river contracted to one 
mile. To give a minute description of the innumerable small 
branches up to this apex, to follow them through their windings, 
would tend only to perplex the reader. They nevertheless serve 
a useful purpose by giving access to a labyrinth of islands, the 
wild fruits and charcoal of which lead to quite an extensive trade 
with Buenos Ayres. 

During the season, the fruiterers lay their barks against the 
banks, and load from the overhanging peach and orange trees. 
This latter fruit is bitter, and used only for preserving, or making 
a very popular drink, which, in the course of time, becomes pleas- 
antly acidulated. 

The peaches are of excellent quality, and constitute a large por- 
tion of the supply of the Buenos Ayrean market. These fruits 
are not found on the low and frequently submerged islands which 
border the main channel-way — the Parana Guazu — but grow 
abundantly upon those in the vicinity of the pass of Las Palmas, 
and near the various other branches used only by small vessels. 

In the province of Buenos Ayres the peach is much cultivated 
for fire- wood, and a tree of three years yields no indifferent supply 
of both fruit and fuel. Its growth in the wild and free islands of 
the Parana, and the perfection of its fruit without culture, are facts 
too extraordinary not to impress a stranger, who naturally asks 
the origin of trees well known not to be indigenous. My inquiries 



FRUITS.— SCENERY. 67 

on this point were invariably answered by Quien sabef — "Who 
knows?" Some of the more intelligent natives trace them to the 
forecast of the Jesuits ; others to the boatmen who, prior to the 
Jesuits, frequented these islands, and may, without purpose, have 
cast around the seeds. Again, their propagation is ascribed to the 
migration of birds and beasts from the main land. This we doubt, 
for among the many isles of the Parana delta there are others of 
the same formation and age — -judging from their strata — on which 
no fruits are to be found. So vast is the yield of these trees, that 
Buenos Ayres is not only supplied with fresh' fruit during the 
season, but quantities are dried. Some enterprising citizens have 
also manufactured from them brandy of excellent quality; but 
this, like many other industrial projects in that country, has not 
been continued with perseverance or energy. When improved 
by grafting, inoculation, or the smallest degree of culture, the fruit 
matures to very great perfection. 

Toward the close of our work, these branches of the Parana be- 
came the scene of operations during fruit season. A more en- 
chanting spectacle than was presented at that time by these isl- 
ands can scarcely be imagined. Poets would have reveled in it 
as a scene of paradisiacal beauty. The lower banks were fringed 
with aquatic plants ; the little channels were shaded by the wil- 
low, whose long, drooping branches dipped gracefully into the wa- 
ters, and formed archways, under which the boatmen moored their 
craft for the convenience of the siesta. On all sides thq vegeta- 
tion was tropical in its luxuriance, and the air was laden with del- 
icate odors. The eye would have been fatigued by the gorgeous 
mingling of colors presented by the rich foliage of the "seibo," 
the flower and fruit of the orange-tree, the ripe tints of the peach, 
the brilliant bloom of various shrubs and parasitical plants, had it 
not been relieved by a verdure as refreshing as it was varied in 
its shades. 

The general course of the Parana from its mouth to the town 
of Rosario in Santa Fe— one hundred and eighty-eight miles — is 
northwest ; thence, up to its confluence with the Paraguay — six 
hundred and ninety miles — north, and a little easterly. 

We began our work, as before stated, by ascertaining its main 
channel, the Guazu, which, at its confluence with the Uruguay, 
may be said to bisect the base of the Delta, there being north of it 
the Brasso Largo and Brasso Bravo, and south of it the pass of 
Las Palmas and Arroyo Capitan. This last branch, though nar- 



63 AFFLUENTS OF LA PLATA. 

row and shallow, is important as offering a water-communication 
to the main or firm lands of the State of Buenos Ayres, which it 
skirts for some distance northward, enters the pass of Las Pal- 
mas, and thence becomes the most southern branch for miles. 
A narrow canal-like stream sets off from it, under the name of 
the Baradero, and, washing the firm lands, joins the main river 
a mile or two below the town of San Pedro, distant from Martin 
Garcia about one hundred and two miles. 

From this point to the apex of the Delta the main river be- 
comes its southern and western boundary. The most northern 
branches, forming at different distances the northern side, which 
is bounded in that direction by the province of Entre Kios, are, 
beginning from the Eiver Uruguay, the Brasso Largo and the 
Brasso Bravo ; the main river to the distance of twenty -five miles 
is the " Parbon," and the " Parana Cito." This last, though tortu- 
ous, narrow, and shallow, possesses advantages similar to those of 
the Arroya Capitan and Baradero, and branches off from the main 
river at the point we have assumed as the apex of the Delta, a 
few miles below Diamante. 

The Parbon is of great importance, being of sufficient depth for 
any class of vessels that could possibly enter the river, and skirts 
throughout its extent the firm lands of Entre Eios. 

The River Gualaguay, which takes its rise in the interior of the 
province, and empties into the Parbon, affords navigation for ves- 
sels of six feet draught up to the port of entry of the town of 
Gualaguay, which is about thirty-five miles from its mouth. It 
passes through a portion of the province particularly rich in pas- 
ture-lands and stocked with fine breeds of cattle. 

We entered the Parana at the season of low water; and 
throughout the distance known as the Delta, which by the course 
of the river is two hundred and forty-five miles from its mouth, 
the least depth of water was sixteen feet, from which it varied 
to one hundred and five feet; the width is from one half to 
two and a half miles, exclusive of its various branches, which at 
some points extend it, from firm land to firm land, twelve miles. 
The character of the bottom is sandy, save where the current is 
too weak to retain its detritus in a floating state. The velocity of 
the current is two and a half miles the hour. The rise begins in 
December, and continues at the daily rate of two inches until 
about the middle of February, when it will have attained its max- 
imum, remaining, with a little variation, at this state for a month 



BRANCHES AND ISLANDS. 69 

or more, when it begins to fall, and descends to its minimum 
point in June or July, at which it remains until the month of Oc- 
tober. 

During this month there is a partial rise of about six feet, called 
the "Kepunte;" this continues about a month, when the river 
subsides again to its lowest state. These periodical changes are 
caused by the tropical rains of a vast region of Brazil, where 
many of the tributaries which swell the main river take their rise. 

It is well for all the practical purposes of navigation that the 
waters of the Parana are so subdivided: its numerous branches 
of course diminish the strength of the current, which, if not weak- 
ened by this distribution, would be a great obstacle in its ascent. 
Steam, but recently introduced upon its waters, will give a vast 
impulse to navigation, reducing a passage of eighty days by sail- 
ing vessels to twelve by this powerful agent. 

These branches constitute, exclusive of many of very minor im- 
portance, the principal courses through which the Parana dis- 
charges its great body of water into La Plata. 

I have alluded to its numerous islands, some of them of such 
recent formation as to be nameless. They gradually rise with the 
deposits of successive inundations and the accumulation of vege- 
table matter until they present a surface above high water. Those 
in the vicinity of "Las Palmas" are, as I have stated, valuable for 
their fruits; and as we ascended, those of older formation were 
found well wooded. Besides these, there are many frequently sub- 
merged, but covered with a thick mass of the shrubs, plants, and 
trees only that love humidity, such as the "seibo," willow, alder; 
the latter not only remarkable for its impenetrable foliage, but as 
being the shrub — it can scarcely be called a tree — which succeeds 
the paja grande, a wiry grass, the first growth of the newly -formed 
island. The seibo,* though a spongy wood, useless for fuel, adds 
vastly to the beauty of the vegetation ; its rich blossoms would 
make it, with us, the pride of ornamental grounds. The sause, 
or willow, is considered inferior for fuel, though used for that pur- 
pose, and is the third indigenous growth, rooting out the alder 
and taking its place. 

* Dobrizhoffer says of this tree, vol. i.. p. 399, " A spongy weed, as soft as that of 
the cork-tree, so that when fresh it may be cut with a knife like an apple, but after 
it is dry axes are not sufficient to hew it. * * * * Whenever the tiger feels 
his claws burn, he is said to rub them against the bark of this tree to relieve the 
pain." 



70 SAN PEDEO.— OBLIGADO. 

In the ascent of the river up to the vicinity of San Pedro, a dis- 
tance of one hundred and thirty miles from its mouth, the view is 
bounded by this labyrinth of islands. From the mast-head of the 
steamer, an elevation of sixty feet, nothing else was to be seen. 
It was a wilderness of foliage and flora. Enriched by an exuber- 
ant vegetation and enlivened by innumerable water-fowl, these 
islands were imposing features in the Parana scenery. 

Approaching San Pedro, we came in sight of the firm lands of 
the province of Buenos Ayres, a continuation of the argillo-calca- 
reous plateau upon which that city stands. The town is upon 
this high land, the level of a surrounding pampa country of vast 
extent. Though its existence dates from the middle of the sev- 
enteenth century, it has but a population of two thousand souls, 
and contains nothing of note, unless we may except a church 
erected by the Jesuits. 

The position of San Pedro is by no means inviting to trade, be- 
ing on an arm of the river which will not admit of approach to the 
shore save in very small craft. It can never, I think, rise to the 
rank of a commercial port ; its intermediate position between two 
cities, which will probably monopolize a vast deal of the trade of 
La Plata — Kosario and Buenos Ayres — will make it only a con- 
sumer of their importations. 

On leaving San Pedro, this elevated land — as it appears from 
the river, though on a level with the surrounding pampa — contin- 
ues on to the northward and westward, at times diverging, again 
approaching the river, from which it appears, a high bluff. 

At Obligado, eleven miles above San Pedro, the river contracts 
to a width of less than half a mile, bringing the channel within 
musket-range of the right bank. Again, from this point, the land 
is depressed, presenting a gently undulating surface richly covered 
with native clover and grass, on which were grazing vast herds of 
cattle and horses. 

The commanding position of Obligado was not overlooked by 
Rosas, who, intent upon carrying out his scheme of effectually 
closing these rivers, and determined to present a formidable re- 
sistance to a forced navigation, erected in 1845 a battery on the 
ri glit bank, which was placed under the command of his brother- 
in-law, General Mancilla. But neither the defenses on land, nor 
the iron obstruction — a chain thrown across the river — could with- 
stand the courage and determination of the French and English. 
Mancilla obstinately disputed the passage to the steamers of the 



ALTERATION IN CHANNEL. 71 

combined squadrons, which had under convoy a large fleet of mer- 
chantmen, with rich cargoes, destined for Corrientes. An English 
vessel steamed up to the chain stretched from shore to shore, and, 
under a deadly fire from the batteries, lifted it to her bows and 
severed it, while the captain of the French steamer, acting in strict 
accordance with his instructions " not to land an armed force," laid 
his vessel close alongside the most efficient water-battery, and with 
shell and grape drove its defenders from their guns. The passage 
was effected, but with the loss of many lives, and the convoy pro- 
ceeded on to its destination, where the merchantmen made a prof- 
itable exchange and sale of cargo. 

To carry the reader through the labyrinth of channels and isl- 
lands — to enumerate the latter, or describe the changes which take 
place annually, would afford little interest. Some of these, how- 
ever, are too remarkable not to deserve special notice. 

About five miles above San Nicholas there is a small island of 
such recent formation as to be nameless. A few years since it was 
joined to the main land, on the right bank, by a low, marshy slip 
of land; now there is a wide separation, and a channel of eighteen 
feet water. A few miles above, it was necessary for the Water 
Witch, when we ascended the river, to pass east of the island of 
Montiel, around which the river flowed in a semicircle ; in less 
than two years subsequently the passage west of that island had 
become a channel of thirty feet depth. 

These changes facilitate the navigation of the river as often as 
they embarrass or retard it. In the instance just cited, the first 
circuitous route embraced sixteen points of the compass, and a 
distance of sixteen miles, while the latter is accomplished by one 
course, and a distance of one and a half miles. Our charts will 
exhibit the changes which took place between the years 1847 and 
1853. In the former year her Britannic majesty's steamer Philo- 
mel, under the command of Captain Sullivan, ascended the Parana 
to Corrientes. These changes are caused by the periodical inun- 
dations, and, as I have before stated, embarrass the navigation less 
than might be expected. 

The pilots are generally skillful, and from habit observant. 
They sometimes exhibit wonderful acuteness of perception in de- 
tecting, simply by inspection, any change that may have occurred 
in the direction of the channel. 

From San Pedro to Eosario, a distance of ninety miles, the char- 
acter of the river remains unchanged. The right bank is a con- 



72 SAN NICHOLAS.— ROSAEIO. 

tinuation of the high land of which I have spoken as extending 
from Buenos Ayres. It is approached at short intervals by the 
windings of the river, and presents precipitous banks of indurated 
clay, varying in height from fifty to one hundred feet ; the sur- 
face soil one and a half to two feet in depth, of rich black earth, 
covered with luxurious pastures, upon which roved herds of cat- 
tle and horses — diminished, it is true, by the internal dissensions 
which for many years have agitated the country, but still existing 
in vast numbers, and constituting the wealth of the estancieros, or 
graziers. 

The richest of these extensive land-holders luxuriate in the en- 
joyment of city life at Buenos Ayres, leaving the entire manage- 
ment of their estancias to capitazes* Each estancia embraces 
many square leagues, extending along the firm lands of the river : 
they are indicated by the cattle, and by the very humble tenements 
of the capitaz and his herdsmen. 

Intermediate between the two towns San Pedro and Kosario, 
stands the unimportant village of San Nicholas, the most northern 
frontier settlement of Buenos Ayres upon the river. The little 
stream of Arroyo del Medio, which is about two miles north of it, 
forms the boundary, so far as it goes, between the states of Buenos 
Ayres and Santa Fe, the most southern province of the Argentine 
Confederation, bordering on the right bank of the Parana. On the 
left are low lands, broken by picturesque lagoons, enlivened occa- 
sionally by a cloud of aquatic birds. The black-necked swan, 
geese, and ducks abound in great variety. 

Eosario, fifty -two miles from San Nicholas, is eligibly placed on 
the same plateau to which I have alluded so often, an elevation 
remarkable in the uniformity of its character. It is in the prov- 
ince of Santa Fe, and, I think, destined to become a place of great 
commercial importance. 

At the commencement of our survey, in September, 1853, this 
town, like all others of the Confederation, was only tributary to 
Buenos Ayres. It then contained a population of four thousand 
souls. Before the expedition had left the waters of La Plata in 
1855, it had increased to twelve thousand, an augmentation which 
shows the healthful influence of trade upon the prosperity of this 
country. Upon the reorganization of the Confederacy, Buenos 
Ayres refused to join it, and Eosario was then declared a port 
of entry. Its position will probabty make it a mart for all the 

* Stewards or overseers. 



EOSAEIO. 73 

imports and exports of the eleven provinces west of the Pa- 
rana. 

"Without due reflection or accurate geographical knowledge of 
the country, the interior position of Eosario — two hundred miles 
from Buenos Ayres, and nearly four hundred from the ocean — 
might be alleged, with some reason, as excluding it from a suc- 
cessful competition with that city ; but when we consider the va- 
rious influences affecting both places, Eosario, even with less cap- 
ital, a small population, and without the habits or antecedents 
of trade, bids fair to compete successfully for a portion of the for- 
eign commerce, and certainly offers larger returns to those whose 
enterprise may tempt them to become commercial pioneers in that 
quarter. Its interior position can present no permanent obstacle 
to the direction of trade ; and, aided by governmental influence, 
and by the certain prospect of connection by railway with Cor- 
dova, more than three hundred miles west, Buenos Ayres may 
well regard its future with watchful jealousy. 

By the introduction of steam, distance is annihilated ; and Bu- 
enos Ayres, though she may become the first city of South Amer- 
ica, with only a share of the trade of La Plata, can no longer ex- 
pect to monopolize the business of a country whose extent and re- 
sources are sufficient to support hundreds of flourishing commer- 
cial towns. 

The route of the railway to Cordova* has already been surveyed 
by Mr. Allen Campbell, of the United States, who has had much 
experience as an engineer in Spanish America, where he enjoys a 
high reputation. He pronounces it not only practicable, and of- 
fering a profitable investment of capital, but as one of the most 
effectual modes of developing the resources of the fruitful provinces 
of the West, heretofore almost unknown, not only in the trade, 
but in the geography of the world. It would be an iron bond 
between the eastern and western provinces not easily severed. 

There are considerations which would make Eosario, even when 
approached by sailing vessels, quite as accessible from the Atlantic 
as Buenos Ayres. The difference of time in loading and dis- 
charging cargo is decidedly in favor of the former. These diffi- 
culties at Buenos Ayres are too well known to the commercial 
community to need from me much illustration. The southeast 
winds, agitating the wide expanse of the river at that point, pro- 
duce so high a sea that, during their prevalence, no vessel can ei- 
ther discharge or receive cargo. 



See route of this road on map. 



74 ROSARIO. 

The winds which, create this sea are the fairest for the ascent of 
the river, and good for the beat down with the current. In forty- 
eight hours, or less, a vessel with a southerly wind should reach 
Eosario from the latitude of Buenos Ayres, off Martin Garcia, or 
any neighboring anchorage. Arrived there, no detention depend- 
ent upon the winds can occur. "With anchor in the stream and 
breasting-lines upon land, a vessel may be laid near enough to 
shore to make a plank a safe pathway. With the erection of 
wharves, the town would be as accessible as any of our commer- 
cial cities. The Parana, from its mouth to Eosario, is not very tor- 
tuous, having a general course of E~.rT. W. The prevailing south 
wind is, therefore, fair in the ascent throughout this distance. I 
must not omit to state that such a wind is necessary to all sailing 
vessels, because the current of two to two and a half miles per 
hour will baffle all efforts to contend with it by beating. The 
Argentine government, with a view of promoting direct trade, has 
laid a discriminating duty on all articles imported from or export- 
ed to Buenos Ayres, which may induce vessels to proceed direct- 
ly to Eosario for the sale or purchase of cargoes, rather than buy 
goods encumbered not only with a double export and import, but 
with the differential duties. 

In descending the river no detention need ever occur, its width 
being sufficient to admit of beating down during contrary winds. 

The trade with Eosario should be carried on in vessels of the 
class and size of the largest three-masted schooners. This con- 
struction and rig, which are peculiarly American, will be found 
well adapted to this river navigation. Such vessels are quickly 
turned to windward, and easily handled. Experience has shown 
that this rig is not incompatible with suitable size or capacity. 
Their draught of water should not exceed twelve feet when laden, 
the mean depth on the bar of San Juan, below Martin Garcia, not 
admitting vessels of a greater draught. 

During the prevalence of north winds, the depth of water is so 
diminished as to leave ships, in both inner and outer roads of Bu- 
enos Ayres, resting on the bottom. These winds, being from the 
land, produce no sea, therefore vessels are in no danger, although 
aground. The south winds, fair for the ascent of the river, inva- 
riably produce a rise of the water, increasing its depth according 
to their force and duration. The depth of water to which I have 
alluded on the bar of San Juan is that of the old channel of Mar- 
tin Garcia. 



KOSARIO. 75 

The new channel, made known, as before stated, by this expe- 
dition, east of the island, has a greater depth by two feet. The 
development of this channel has not been hailed by the Buenos 
Ayreans with the enthusiasm which usually meets all discoveries 
that may facilitate the trading operations of a country. In de- 
priving Martin Garcia of its political importance, it obviates the 
necessity of treaty stipulations with Buenos' Ayres for entrance 
into the upper waters. 

While engaged upon this work, I have been gratified to learn, 
by a letter frorn my esteemed friend, K. B. Forbes, of Boston, that 
a commercial firm in that city have, with eminent success, become 
the pioneers to our trade with the interior countries of La Plata. 
I quote from his letter, alluding to the first shipment that had 
been made from- the United States directly to the port of Bosario. 
He gives, in a few words, the report of the captain of the vessel 
to his owners in Boston. 

The captain says "he got to Bosario without any difficulty, dis- 
charged his cargo, and got his freight money. That Chistopher 
Columbus did not excite more curiosity than did the arrival of 
his vessel ; that goods can be put on board at Bosario from 15 to 
20 per cent, cheaper than at the port of Buenos Ayres, and that 
he expected to bring home some passengers, with means. to buy 
goods, domestics, lumber," &c. 

This is a beginning, to be followed, I hope, by hearing that the 
waters of the Parana are covered with vessels bearing the stars 
and stripes. 

The right bank of the river from Bosario to the mouth of the 
Cacarana, a distance of eighteen miles, presents an unbroken and 
precipitous elevation of from fifty to eighty feet of reddish clay ; 
beyond this it recedes into the interior ; and thence, throughout 
the extent of the river to its confluence with the Paraguay, the 
same bank assumes somewhat the appearance of the other. Up 
to this point the shores are low and marshy, and the course of 
the river is broken by densely wooded islands of recent formation. 

We had remained at Bosario, hoping for clear weather, to make 
observations for latitude and longitude, as it was my habit to es- 
tablish the positions of all prominent places, independent of the 
observations that were made nightly whenever the weather would 
permit. Finding from appearances that we should be unneces- 
sarily detained, and knowing that I should have subsequent op- 
portunities of determining this place, we pushed on and anchored 



76 SAN LORENZO.— THE TERCERO. 

off the convent of San Lorenzo, about twelve miles above Eosario, 
on the same range of high land. 

This is one of the old establishments of the Jesuits, and now 
held by the Franciscans. Substantially built, like all their struc- 
tures, it presents a conspicuous but isolated mark on the plateau. 

The historical associations of this vicinity are full of interest. 
Before the Jesuits entered upon their missions, Sebastian Cabot, 
and Ayolas, serving under the banner of what was the then great 
temporal power of Christendom, charmed with the beauty of the 
country and the hospitality of the neighboring Indians, had se- 
lected it for the first settlements of the white race in La Plata, 
" San Espiritu," and " Corpus Christi." 

We were disappointed in our expectations of astronomical ob- 
servations. My journal says, " September 8th, 10 o'clock A.M., 
at anchor off San Lorenzo. Temperature of air 49°, water 67° ; 
velocity of current two and a half miles per hour. Last night 
strong gales from the southeast, with rain ; this morning appear- 
ances of clearing. Eemained at anchor until 10 o'clock, hoping to 
get observations for latitude and longitude, but without success. 
Proceeded on our course, the weather only preventing astronomi- 
cal observations. This southeast wind has prevailed. for several 
days. Six miles above San Lorenzo the Kiver Cacarana empties 
into the Parana ; it retains this name only within the province of 
Santa Fe. From its source in the sierras, it is known as the Ter- 
cero, and it is joined by the Eiver Cuarto at the distance of one 
hundred and twenty miles from its confluence with the Parana." 

I am indebted to Mr. Allen Campbell for the most reliable in- 
formation relative to this river. In the prosecution of his survey 
of the route of the railway from Eosario to Cordova, which lay 
very much along the course of the Tercero, it became necessary 
for him to make a very thorough examination of it. The inform- 
ation he was thus enabled to give me precluded the necessity of 
farther examination than had been previously made by Lieutenant 
Murdaugh and myself. It was my intention, before meeting Mr. 
Campbell, from the cursory notice we had made on our land trip 
from Cordova to Eosario — the road occasionally taking us near the 
river — to explore it thoroughly. We had seen it at its lowest state, 
when the strength of its current was diminished, but were unable 
to judge, simply by inspection, of the declivity of its bed through- 
out a distance of three hundred miles. The examination made by 
Mr. Campbell left no doubt in my mind of the impracticability of 



THE PAMPAS. 77 

its navigation; if for no other reason, because of its great declivity 
— two and a half feet to the mile — sufficient to produce a current 
which it would be impossible to overcome during the season of 
high water. 

This difference of level is a foot for every inch in the Mississippi. 
I quote the words of Mr. Campbell. " The ' Tercero' is not navi- 
gable in its natural state, neither is it susceptible of being made so 
by artificial means, at least for any practical or useful purpose." 

It is not unusual to hear the navigability of many of the small 
rivers of La Plata mentioned as being established, and even to see 
such statements in books, when no evidences are adduced, nor the 
names of explorers given in confirmation of such assertions. This 
has not only been said, but written of the Tercero. In a work 
upon the country, the author declares that it is navigable from its 
mouth to the town of Villa Kueva, a distance by the windings of 
the river of two hundred and fifty miles. Mr. Campbell says, 
"These ideas are entirely illusory ;" and, as his assertion is based 
upon reliable data, no better authority could be given. I have no 
doubt, however, that the same means which once constituted the 
only mode of transportation downward, on the Mississippi, may be 
resorted to with success on the Tercero, when immigration and the 
friction of trade shall have awakened some degree of enterprise 
among the people, and taught them that time is money. 

Passing the mouth of the Cacarana, the elevated pampa country 
of the right, as before stated, recedes gradually to the interior ; and 
not until we have ascended one thousand miles above, on that bank, 
do we again see high lands, and then not a plateau or elevated pam- 
pa, but isolated mountains and hillocks from one half of a mile to 
two miles in length, and rising several hundred feet above the level 
of the " Gran Chaco" — monuments, apparently dropped from the 
clouds or upheaved by some convulsion of nature in the midst of 
a vast domain, claimed by the neighboring republics, and divided 
among them by imaginary lines, but still occupied by aboriginal 
tribes who have never been subjugated or even disturbed by the 
white race. 

Between the town of Diamante and Cacarana, a distance of 
thirty -three miles, the river courses among low islands of recent 
formation, but wooded, and with an almost impenetrable under- 
growth. As we ascended at the period of low water, I had an 
opportunity of observing their formation, which was composed of 
strata of black argillaceous earth and sand, showing at different 



78 EIVER SCENEKY.— DIAMANTE. 

periods of inundation the character of the deposit. The bottom 
of the river, brought up b j the lead, was invariably sandy wher- 
ever it had been subject to the action of the currents; in slack 
water it was uniformly muddy. 

The scenery of this noble river was throughout, to its junction 
with the Paraguay, imposing and picturesquely beautiful. Islands 
continue a characteristic feature for many hundred miles, differing 
only, I observed in ascending, from those of the lower waters in 
the improved growth of trees, or even greater exuberance of veg- 
etation. They were enlivened by monkeys, capinchas, and birds 
of brilliant plumage, and the atmosphere was redolent of the fra- 
grance of climbers and parasites that enwrapped trunk and branch- 
es of many a huge tree, their bright floral clusters blending har- 
moniously with the varied hues of the foliage. The finest gardens 
of less favored zones would offer but a penury of vegetal beauty 
when compared with these fair Edens of nature. 

At Diamante we meet, for the first time, a change in the char- 
acter of the left bank of the Parana. We are approaching the 
high and rolling lands of Entre Eios, washed by the windings of 
the river, above which they rise from ninety to one hundred and 
fifty feet. On the beginning of this elevation, prettily situated, 
stands a town or village of about one thousand inhabitants, for- 
merly known as Punta Grorda, but changed by Urquiza to Dia- 
mante, or Diamond. 

In 1852, in preparing for his invasion of Buenos Ayres, which 
ended with the battle and victory of "Monte Caseres," General 
Urquiza selected this point of the Parana for the passage of his 
army. The contraction of the river and the firm lands of the 
opposite bank in Santa Fe made it the most eligible place for this 
purpose. The passage of the whole army on boats and rafts was 
made without the loss of a single man, beast, or charge of ammu- 
nition. Gratified at his success here, and subsequent victory, Ur- 
quiza conceived this point of Entre Eios, from which he took his 
departure, worthy the name which he bestowed upon it. 

The mildness of the climate, the frequent intersection of the 
lands in every direction by small rivers, and the absence of ferries 
and bridges, oblige the people of the country to become expert 
swimmers. The gaucho, stripped to the loins, springs into the 
water with his horse, as if it were the natural element of both; 
holding the animal by the mane, he swims alongside, guiding him 
by an occasional slap on the head, and encouraging him by deaf- 



LEFT BANK OF THE PAEANA. 79 

ening yells and whoops. In the few places where ferries are es- 
tablished, canoes are provided, which the traveler enters, holding 
his horse by the bridle. The canoe is gnided by the ferry -man, 
bnt carried over by the direct power of the horse swimming along- 
side. 

Diamante is an important place for steamers ascending the riv- 
er. There, for the first time, will be found excellent fuel, the 
wood of the lowlands and islands being unfit for this purpose. 
On the firm lands of Entre Eios are found the algarroba and es- 
pinilla, trees of slow growth ; the former attains, with age, a great 
size ; both are remarkable for their solidity, and afford the best 
fuel for steamers, one cord being fully equal to a ton of coals. 
There are several other woods scarcely inferior to these, all of 
which skirt the river courses only ; they never, in the lower paral- 
lels of La Plata, grow in extended forests. 



CHAPTEE Y. 

Left Bank of the Parana. — Survey made by Lieutenant Powell. — Climbing the 
Tree. — Victoria. — Descending the Parana Cito. — Puerto de los Bues. — Guala- 
guay. — El Puerto de Ybicui. — A Canal. — Paciencia. — Physical Changes. — The 
Colastine. — Capella de San Jose. — Santa Fe. — The Chaco. : — Its Inhabitants. — 
Parana. — Bajada. — Progress. — Pine Lumber. — Commercial Prospects. — Cedar. 
■ — Surface Soil. — Dr. Martin de Moussy's Report. — Plan of Parana. — Buildings 
and Population. — River Banks. — Estancia of an Englishman. — Feliciana. — La 
Paz. — The Jefe de Politica and the Curate. — Fuel. — Pass of San Juan. — Course 
of the River. — Sullivan's Charts. — Wild Fowl. — The Espinilla. — Capibaras or 
Capinchas. — Locusts. — Catching a Deer. — Riacho Caraguatay. — Riacho San 
Geronimo . — Goya. — C apincha C hase . — Bella Vista. — Productions. — Fishing. — 
Tobacco Island. — Hunting for Specimens. — Taquari Chico. — An Orange Estan- 
cia. — The Camilote. — Arrival at Corrientes. — Visit to the Governor. — Visit 
from the Governor.— City of Corrientes. — Easy Navigation of the River. — Fine 
Woods for Fuel. — Resources of the River Provinces. — Table of Distances. 

Considering Diamante as the apex of the Delta of the Parana, 
I have, up to this point, given a sketch of its right bank. I will 
now endeavor to give some idea of the left, which, in ascending, 
was rarely visible from the Water Witch. I shall quote, in part, 
from the journal of Lieutenant Powell, who, at a subsequent pe- 
riod of the exploration, surveyed the eastern branches of the 
Parana, skirting the shore of Entre Eios. This was done in a 
small steamer, La Yerla, of two feet draught, which I chartered 
from the " United States and Paraguay Company" for the pur- 



80 THE TIMBO.— THE PAKANA CITO. 

pose of exploring the Salado and other tributaries inaccessible to 
our "ocean steamer." 

On the left bank, the branches which leave the main river, be- 
tween Eosario and Diamante, are the Parbon, Timbo, and Parana 
Cito. To ascertain their navigability through a very interesting 
part of Entre Eios was the object of the work assigned to Lieu- 
tenant Powell. 

Leaving Diamante and proceeding south, he found the mouth 
of the Parana Cito obstructed by snags, and, descending the main 
river a short distance, he entered the Timbo, which, though nar- 
row — from fifteen to twenty -five yards — maintained throughout 
a depth of from nine to twelve feet. He followed it in its mazy 
windings through the alluvial soil of the Delta to its junction 
with the Parana Cito. 

To obtain a distinct view of the country, and satisfy himself 
as to what course he should take among the numerous branches 
which spread off in every direction, he brought into requisition 
an accomplishment of his juvenile days, and climbed the highest 
tree he could find. His examination determined him to follow 
up the Parana Cito, which has a width of from forty to sixty 
feet, and a depth of from eighteen to ninety-five, to a point called 
Tres Bocas — " Three Mouths," where, entering a branch called 
Victoria, and ascending it half a mile, he came to the Puerto de 
los Sauses — "Port of the Willows," where there were several 
small craft discharging and taking in cargo. This is the port of 
the town of Victoria. I now quote from his journal. 

" The position of Puerto de los Sauses was established by obser- 
vation, the church in the town of Yictoria bearing north three 
and a half miles distant. Situated on the top of the elevated 
ridge which bounds the Delta, it is a flourishing place of about 
four thousand inhabitants, and has a considerable trade in hides, 
wool, and lime. I found it impossible to procure reliable statis- 
tics of this, as well as of other ports of the province ; and, having 
made the same inquiry at Parana subsequently, was told 'the 
government had not, as yet, been able to procure any such in- 
formation.' 

"As the Yerba was the first steamer, and the flag she bore the 
first of our nation that had appeared in those waters, we were 
soon honored by a number of visitors. In visiting the govern- 
ment officials, and in the exchange of courtesies with the inhab- 
itants, we made many agreeable acquaintances, and hope we left 



PUERTO DE LA CRUZ.— GUALAGUAY. 81 

as many pleasant reminiscences of their fellow- Americans of the 
North." 

Eetracing their steps through the Victoria into the Parana Cito, 
at the distance of eleven and a half miles from Tres Bocas, they 
found the Puerto de la Cruz — "Port of the Cross," where it is 
necessary, during the periods of very low water, to ship and dis- 
charge. At the distance of nine miles from the last place is Puer- 
to del Kubio — "Eed Port," situated, like La Cruz, on a range of 
twenty feet elevation. Vessels whose cargoes are for and from 
Victoria discharge and load at these ports when the state of the 
river will not permit them to proceed higher. At the season of 
high water, vessels of ten feet ascend within one mile of Victoria. 

In descending the Parana Cito to its junction with the Parbon, 
a distance from Victoria of about seventy -five miles, they passed 
through a beautiful rolling country, covered with estancias and 
fine herds of cattle and horses. They saw occasionally patches 
of espinilla and tala, both excellent fuel for steamers. A short 
distance below the confluence of the Parana Cito with the Parbon 
the latter is contracted to the width of about two hundred yards. 
Here Eosas, in the year 1845, during his difficulties with England 
and France, threw a chain across, to obstruct the ascent of the 
river. At a distance of ten miles from this point the steamer 
entered the Gualaguay Eiver, which was ascended for twenty 
miles to El Puerto de los Bues. 

This river passes through a beautiful country, and some of the 
most valuable lands of Entre Eios ; it was sparsely wooded with 
algarroba and espinilla, and the estancias on both sides had herds 
of cattle and horses. At El Puerto de los Bues, the port of Gua- 
laguay, several vessels were discharging and loading cargo. In 
consequence of the low state of the water, he was unable to reach 
El Puerto de los Barillos, the port immediately at the town, which, 
by the course of the river, is eighteen miles distant from El Pu- 
erto de los Bues. 

Ascending to within six miles of the town, but finding the water 
falling, Mr. Powell thought it advisable to return to the latter port, 
whose position he determined by observations, from which he es- 
tablished that of Gualaguay, bearing JNT.lSr.E., and distant six miles. 
Gualaguay is larger than Victoria, having five or six thousand in- 
habitants. It has a lively trade in hides, wool, timber, and fire- 
wood ; the former the product of the herds and flocks of one of 
the best grazing districts of the province, the latter from the 

6 



82 HOSPITALITY.— A CANAL. 

abundant growth of the espinilla and algarroba. In the effort to 
procure statistical information, he encountered the same difficulties 
as at Victoria. 

"La Yerba," says Lieutenant Powell, "continued to be an ob- 
ject of great interest, notwithstanding her distance from the town 
— six miles. No mark of hospitality was omitted, and every fa- 
cility was afforded in procuring provisions and wood. On visiting 
the town and calling on the government officials, we were re- 
ceived with every mark of hospitality by the family of the com- 
mandante, he being at the time unwell, and, in a walk through 
the town, were shown by the Jefe Politico the lions of the place, 
most prominent among which was the cafe, lighted with gas, the 
only gas-light at this time in the Argentine Confederation, and the 
work of an enterprising Italian, the proprietor of the cafe." 

Eeturning into the Parbon, and descending thirty-one miles, he 
touched at El Puerto de Ybicui, a port established for the conven- 
ience of the neighboring estancieros, and having its custom-house 
business conducted in Gualaguay. There are several ranchos here, 
but it is not known as a village. I think its importance has been 
exaggerated by giving its name, as on Captain Sullivan's charts, 
to the "Parbon" from 'this place to its junction with the Parana, 
a distance of ten miles. Ybicui is not recognized as the name of 
this branch by the inhabitants of either of the towns above men- 
tioned. It is common for the pilots and people of the country to 
speak of the Parana Cito from the point at which it branches off 
from the Parana, near Diamante, to Victoria, as the " Eiacho Vic- 
toria," but I have confined this latter name to the riacho* which 
courses off from the Parana Cito, and on which is the town of 
Victoria. 

On entering the Parana Ghiazu through the Parbon, Mr. Powell 
had an opportunity of examining a miniature piece of canaliza- 
tion, executed by an enterprising citizen for the purpose of facil- 
itating a charcoal and wood business, which he carried on to a 
considerable extent with Buenos Ayres. Near the island Biscaino 
the main river is separated from Las Palmas by a narrow strip of 
land of about seventy-five yards. Senor Mercadel, the person al- 
luded to, by way of avoiding a circuit of fifteen miles, one half of 
which would be against the current, has nearly completed a cut 
often feet width and depth through this narrow strip of land, by 
which he will be enabled to pass from the main river into Las 

* Riacho, stream. Riachuelo, small stream or creek. 



THE RIVER BANKS. 8.3 

Palmas, feeling assured that in giving the current an inch it would 
take an ell, and very soon open a channel of sufficient capacity 
for the largest vessel in the trade. 

Having traced out those arms of the Parana through which a 
very interesting portion of Entre Bios is approached, and desig- 
nated the different points accessible to navigation at periods of high 
and low water, I proceed with my narrative of the river courses 
from Diamante upward. 

I have shown that here for the first time we have in full view 
from the channel both sides of the river. The left now assumes 
the character which has up to this point distinguished the right. 
It is formed by the high land of Entre Eios, and is even more ele- 
vated than the right bank up to Diamante ; it is an undulating 
pampa, skirted on the river by a noble growth of timber. The 
country on this side of the Parana for four hundred and forty miles, 
ascending, bounds parts of the provinces of Entre Eios and ' ■ Cor- 
rientes," and affords throughout an abundant supply of fuel. The 
inhabitants will contract to furnish it for steamers, placing it at 
suitable points easy of access. 

Intervening islands intercept, at intervals, the view of the main 
land ; but, wherever it is washed by the main river, estancias and 
settlements are to be -seen upon its borders. The course of the 
river, winding among islands from Diamante to Paciencia, a dis- 
tance of twenty-two miles, is north; there it turns nearly at right 
angles to the east. Its name admonishes those ascending in sail- 
ing craft, dependent exclusively on the winds, to be patient. There 
are instances of vessels having been detained here for weeks. 

Among the physical changes which were occurring during our 
work in these waters, one of the most important was at this point. 
The Eiacho Paracan (which will not only reduce the distance, but 
make what was a circuitous route a straight line) was doubtless 
becoming the main channel. Its depth had very much increased 
previously to our leaving the river. During the latter days of our 
work, in rounding the point of Paciencia, it was discovered that 
in the main channel the depth had become reduced from twenty- 
seven to eighteen feet, and that a new and deeper channel had 
broken through the flat which separated the main land from the 
island of Paracan, passing east of the island of "Toro." 

The Colastine here unites with the Parana. About thirty miles 
above it branches off from the main river, and, pursuing a very 
winding course, receives, among other minor streams, the waters 



84 " KINCOK— SANTA FE. 

of the Santa Fe, which, is a continuation of the Salado, although 
much of the water of this latter river finds its way into the Parana 
through the shallow "riacho" called Coronda, which is only navi- 
gable for very small craft. The Colastine retains at low water a 
depth of not less than eleven feet, and throughout a width of from 
one hundred to two hundred and fifty yards. It receives,- at a short 
distance from its branching off from the Parana, through the nar- 
row creek called Cayesta, the waters of a lake of the same name, 
which, from the immediate vicinity of Santa Fe, extends north 
about ten miles with a width of three. 

The country bordering on the Colastine to the west, and extend- 
ing for many miles north of the town of Santa Fe, is known as 
Rincon, " Corner." It is a narrow strip of rolling land, bounded 
on the west by Lake Cayesta, and on the east by the Colastine ; is 
well populated, highly fertile, and furnishes the market with large 
supplies of vegetables. 

The Capilla de San Jose — " Chapel of St. Joseph" — is prettily sit- 
uated on the right bank of the Colastine, about twenty miles north 
of Santa Fe. This chapel and a few adobe houses form the north- 
ern limit of civilized occupation bordering on the Chaco. 

There is north of Eincon a settlement of demi-civilized Indians 
who will permit no direct trade or intercourse between their more 
savage brethren and the white traders, but act as their brokers in 
the exchange of arrow-heads, knives, hatchets, beads, etc., for the 
skins of animals brought in from " El Gran Chaco." 

The town of Santa Fe (latitude 31° 38' 34" S., longitude 60° 
39' 48" W.) is placed upon a peninsula formed by the Eiver Sa- 
lado, on the west and south, and the Santa Fe on the east, the 
latter, as I have shown, being only a continuation of the former. 
In abandoning the old city of the same name, founded by De 
Garay and eighty -four followers in 1573, on the borders of the 
Lake Cayesta, in latitude 31°, the inhabitants selected the site of 
the present town from the admirable natural defenses it seemed to 
present against the inroads of the savages ; also for the communi- 
cation it offered by the Salado with the settlements of the interior. 
Their expectations were not realized. Although almost an island, 
few towns of the Parana have suffered more from Indian aggres- 
sion. It stands upon the verge of their vast domain, " El Chaco," 
which, from here, borders the river on the west, embracing an 
extent of twelve degrees of latitude. 

With the Salado as its southern, the Parana and Paraguay its 



THE CHACO.— PARANA. 85 

eastern boundaries, the Chaco covers an area of two hundred 
thousand square miles. Partitioned by imaginary lines among 
neighboring governments, it is yet in possession of hordes of in- 
hospitable Indians, acknowledging allegiance to no power but that 
of caciques, who rule their respective tribes with an authority 
both unlimited and unquestioned. Neither intercourse with the 
whites nor time has dissipated, among the more warlike Indians 
of the Chaco, a deep feeling of hostility for the wrongs endured by 
their race. They manifest it by continual inroads upon the bor- 
der settlements, occasionally carrying off prisoners and committing 
the most atrocious crimes. Generally, however, these incursions 
are merely predatory in their character, leaving the estancias mi- 
nus fine herds of cattle, sheep, horses, etc. 

We have before alluded to the agricultural tribes. Experience 
has shown that from this class of Indians may be derived the most 
valuable aid in bringing the country under cultivation. On the 
western borders of the " Chaco" they have been employed by the 
estancieros, and found highly efficient as laborers and herdsmen. 
They do not abandon their homes or habits, but, after the crops 
are seeded or gathered in, return to their families, carrying with 
them the proceeds of their labors. Under kind and judicious 
treatment, and with the protection of just laws, a useful popula- 
tion could be formed from these tribes, and the Argentine States 
would do well to adopt the policy of Brazil in trading with the 
savages bordering upon their territory. 

The Parana maintains an easterly course from the Banco de 
Paciencia for fifteen miles, intermediate between which two points 
is the city of Parana, the capital of the Argentine Confedera- 
tion, one mile from the Bajada, or "Landing," the name orig- 
inally held by the city. The Bajada was ascertained by a series 
of observations to be in latitude 31° 42 ' 54" south, and longitude 
60° 32' 39" west. It was founded in 1730 by colonists from 
Santa Fe, who, having been driven from this place by the Paya- 
gua and Munos Indians, retired to the spot now occupied in the 
capital by the Plaza primer o de Mayo — " The Square of the 1st of 
May." Here they intrenched themselves, constructed a few huts 
and a small fort, and succeeded in maintaining this position until 
sufficient accessions to their numbers were made to enable them 
to act on the offensive against their savage neighbors. They 
nearly annihilated the Munos ; and the Payaguas, unable to cope 
alone with them, ceased their hostile incursions. Under the Con- 



85 GEOWTH OF PAEANA. 

federation of 1852, it was made the seat of the general govern- 
ment ; since which, up to 1855, its population has trebled. 

Parana is not advantageously placed as a commercial city, and 
its trade, except for imports, is of little value. The construction 
of a mole and wharves would give facilities to lading and discharg- 
ing cargo which it does not naturally possess. The exports of 
the province of Entre Eios are mainly from the ports on the Par- 
bon and the Uruguay, in the vicinity of which are the most val- 
uable estancias. The lands around the capital are not so well 
adapted to agriculture as those of other parts of the province, but 
they are undoubtedly rich, and the rapid increase of the popula- 
tion will soon cause them to be industriously cultivated. 

We could scarcely realize the change in the aspect of the town 
between 1853 and 1855, the period of the arrival and departure 
of the expedition. When we first visited it, a noiseless inertion 
seemed to pervade all things ; before our departure, the construc- 
tion, not only of government buildings, but of fine private dwell- 
ings, gave it an air of bustle and life quite "American." The 
saw and hammer were busily plied in every street, and they were 
preparing for use, not only the hard woods of the country, but 
American pine. Even in the short period which had elapsed 
since the opening of the rivers, this lumber had worked its way 
six hundred miles in the interior, not only against the currents 
of the river, but the prejudices of the people, who previously im- 
agined no woods, for any purpose, equal to their own. Pine was 
not only extensively applied for doors and window-sashes, but, 
as flooring, was actually superseding tile and brick. 

It must be remembered that only three years had elapsed since 
the opening of these waters to commerce, and as yet there was 
no direct trade with the United States. This lumber had paid 
not only import duty at Parana, but both import and export duty 
at Buenos Ayres or Montevideo, and yet was sold here with profit. 
It can therefore be well understood how much our merchants 
would gain by a direct trade, in their own ships, with Eosario or 
Parana, where their cargoes will be subject to but one import duty 
before they get into the hands of the consumer. I hazard noth- 
ing in saying that I believe the trade in lumber to those interior 
provinces of La Plata will be one of considerable importance to 
this country. 

The growth of Eosario and Parana in three years is not sur- 
passed by the strides of some of our western cities. The rise in 



THE LUMBEK TRADE. 87 

the value of real estate, the demand for houses caused by the in- 
creased population, seem to promise a permanent prosperity, which 
will make their trade of great value to those' who may secure it. 

It undoubtedly sounds like " sending coals to Newcastle" to 
write so confidently of a remunerative trade in lumber which must 
make a voyage of six thousand miles, and then go up stream from 
four to six hundred miles into the interior of a country which, but 
a short distance above where I would land it, boasts of the supe- 
riority of its woods over those of the world. 

For some purposes, the superiority of South American timber 
will remain unquestioned, that is, for parts of ship-building where 
hard and durable woods are requisite ; for cabinet-work, where 
fineness of texture is essential; and for joists and beams of build- 
ings, where heavy woods could be advantageously applied ; but 
neither pine nor its equivalent has yet been discovered.* The 
cedar is applied to purposes approaching most nearly to our use 
of it, and grows abundantly in Paraguay and the northwestern 
provinces of the Argentine Confederation, Tucuman, Santiago, and 
Salta. It attains to a great size, with a trunk of such height as to 
afford planks of the greatest required length. I saw one of four 
feet diameter, but was told they often exceeded six. The price of 
one-inch boards of cedar — the only wood ever sawed by them in 
that way — at Asuncion, was twelve and a half cents the foot. 
Harder woods, squared for joists, beams, etc., measuring from eight 
to ten inches throughout their length, could not be bought at Cor- 
rientes for less than seventy -five cents the vara — thirty -four inches. 

_ It needs no extraordinary calculation to show that American 
pine can, at least for some years — until enterprise and industry 
have introduced greater facilities in sawing — compete successfully 
with these woods at their own market ; and its superiority for cer- 
tain uses is apparent. I purchased pine boards at Corrientes, and 
paid twelve and a half cents the foot. This lumber had been re- 
shipped for the latter port, and saddled with all the expenses of 
import and export duty to which I have before alluded. 

The plateau upon which the city of Parana stands is a continu- 
ation of the high lands of the left bank, first seen at Diamante. 
They present an interesting subject of study to the geologist. I 
give in his own language the result of an examination made by 

* There is a tree called the Pino alluded to by some of the old writers as being 
found in the upper waters of the Parana, but its description does not correspond 
with that of ours, and it has not been brought into use. 



38 GEOLOGICAL FEATURES. 

an eminent scientific man, Dr. Martin de Monssy, employed by the 
government to make a geological survey of the country : 

" This vegetable earth (the surface soil) has in considerable quan- 
tities oxyd of iron and magnesia, which give it a dark yellow or 
violet appearance. It is unctuous to the touch, because of a cer- 
tain quantity of clay which it contains. It readily receives, and 
as readily gives out moisture. Beneath this is a reddish-yellow 
argillaceous stratum, containing a quantity of oxyd of iron ; it is 
of the same character as that of the pampas and the borders of the 
River La Plata, called by D'Orbigny and Darwin Limo Pampero — 
' pampa mud.' In this stratum, which is diluvium, are found nu- 
merous fossils of mammiferous animals of a class now extinct — 
the Megatherium, Glyptodon, Milodon — which are abundant in the 
toscas, a compact calcareous clay in the lower part of the river. 
We are not aware that any such fossils have been found in Entre 
Bios, but we confidently believe they maybe. The third stratum, 
counting from the surface, is calcareous. This bank, which begins 
at Diamante, and extends northeast to a distance unknown, con- 
tains great quantities of shells ; nevertheless, there are points at 
which they disappear altogether. Above the city the calcareous 
bank is less shelly, but, in consequence of its mixture with sand, 
it approaches the character of chalk, having at the same time a 
harder consistency. 

" The thickness of this stratum is from six to eighteen feet. 
The lower part rests on a stratum of potters' earth, beneath which 
is a perfect sandy limestone, useless in the production of lime, but 
excellent as a building-stone. This sandy limestone contains no 
shells. At different points northeast of the rising ground of ' Man- 
ga' the carbonate of lime has undergone a remarkable change into 
sulphate of lime or gypsum, which is found in large quantities, 
beautifully crystallized. 

"The fourth stratum is pure clay, containing in parts small al- 
ternating veins of ferruginous sand, argillaceous marl, and minute 
particles of shells. It is exceedingly variable in its form and thick- 
ness. Considering it in an industrial point of view, this stratum 
becomes an interesting subject of study in connection with the art 
of pottery. It contains the best material for the manufacture of 
the finest as well as the common china, and for the making of 
bricks and square tiles, for which there is great demand at all 
times in Parana and towns on the river. Potters' clay of extreme 
fineness is found in great abundance ; it is unctuous to the touch, 



CITY OF PAKANA. 89 

and may be used with success as ' fullers' earth.' An argillaceous 
marl, perfectly white, forms in the midst of these strata perpendic- 
ular veins, which have a very singular effect contrasted with the 
horizontal veins of red and yellow ferruginous sand. Finally, the 
fifth stratum consists entirely of a yellowish-green sand." 

The plan of the city of Parana is a quadrangle, divided into 
squares of one hundred and fifty yards, the streets intersecting 
each other at right angles. The principal public buildings are 
the governor's palace — a plain house, but in good taste ; several 
churches — one of which, San Miguel, has been fifteen years in 
course of construction, and is yet unfinished ; and a pretty theatre. 

The new houses are all of brick, plastered and whitewashed, 
with azoteas, which afford a pleasant place for evening resort and 
the flirtation of the senoritas, or even for a promenade ; families 
sometimes visiting each other by these airy passages. I missed, 
however, the miradores, or turrets, which are so gay and orna- 
mental, and to be found on almost all the better class of dwell- 
ings in Buenos Ayres and Montevideo. In Parana they would 
afford an extended view of a beautiful country, embracing in one 
direction the city of Santa Fe. The theatre contains two tiers of 
boxes, is sufficiently commodious, and the decorations are in good 
taste. The gardens are numerous and well arranged. The fruits 
— orange, peach, pomegranate, fig, grape — are excellent, and their 
rich foliage" contrasts pleasantly with the whitewashed walls of the 
dwellings. 

In 1855 the city contained eight thousand souls, and the popu- 
lation was rapidly increasing. In addition to its kilns, which sup- 
ply the towns of La Plata with quantities of lime, there are near it 
extensive tanneries, where the barks of the "cascara" and "tim- 
•bo Colorado" are used ; the latter is also excellent fuel for steamers. 
An admirable road is being constructed from the city to the port 
■ — a work of some labor, as it grades an ascent of one hundred and 
fifty feet. Associating, as we are apt to do, stagnation or a retro- 
grade movement with all things in the interior of South America, 
the healthful, progressive aspect of Parana is not less pleasing than 
astonishing. 

" We have made observations for latitude and longitude, also for 
height of bank, which was found to be one hundred and twenty- 
four feet ; also observations with the micrometer for the width of 
the river, which is here sixteen hundred and forty yards, the ve- 
locity of the current being three miles the hour. Six miles above 



90 CHAPITAN.— FELICIANA.— LA PAZ. 

Parana the river takes a general direction of N.E., the sinuosities 
of the channel, caused by numerous islands, making the only de- 
viation from this course, which it maintains up to Piragua, a dis- 
tance of about eighty miles. The character of the river, its shores 
and islands, remain unchanged up to this point. The high, firm 
lands of the left bank range from one hundred to one hundred 
and sixty feet above the water, and are washed throughout this 
distance by the main river, except at three points, where it is 
broken by islands. At Chapitan Island, seventeen miles above 
Parana, we saw, for the first time, detached masses of coarse brown 
sandstone. Here the islands of the Parana afford excellent fuel 
for steamers, which may be had for the trouble of cutting it. 

" Above, but near Chapitan, is the estancia of an Englishman, 
which runs for twenty miles along the river. The improvements 
around the dwelling, the wire fence protecting well-cultivated 
grounds, gave the impression that, with the enjoyment of an un- 
rivaled climate, this estanciero had brought around him all the 
order and comfort of a British homestead. Three miles beyond 
we passed the point where the Colastine branches off from the 
Parana, and, anchoring off the lower end of the islands Ties Cruces 
— ' Three Crosses,' obtained observations for latitude and longi- 
tude. 

" Thirty-five miles above begins the bank of Feliciana. It ex- 
tends twenty-two miles, and is broken only by some small streamSj 
among which are the Arroyos Gonzales, Hondo, and Verde, 
which take their rise within the province of Entre Eios. Its 
strata of limestone, white clay, sand, and yellow clay, retain a re- 
markable uniformity of depth throughout to Piragua Point ; and 
though the bank is broken, as alluded to, it reappears with the 
same formation in the continuation of the range. 

" Three miles beyond the last point at which observations were 
obtained there is in mid-channel an isolated ledge of rocks three 
feet below the surface at low water, and yet there is no appear- 
ance on either shore of any such formation. It does not, however, 
in the least impede navigation, the channel being wide on each 
side, with a depth of ninety-six feet. 

"La Paz is a village of two hundred inhabitants; made obser- 
vations to determine its position ; it is just within the boundary - 
line which separates Corrientes and Entre Eios — a miserable place! 
The buildings all of adobe; not even a plaza, the pride and de- 
li g] it of Spanish villages. It contains a chapel of adobe, the bel- 



LA PAZ.— SAN JUAN. 91 

fry, formed of a piece of timber laid across two upright posts, 
boasts three bells, which make a pleasant chime, and summon the 
people to morning and evening prayer. I called on the highest 
dignitary of the place, the * Grefe <de Politica.' After the usual 
offers of civility, cigars were passed round; took leave, and called 
on the second dignitary, the curate, who was a native of Madrid, 
and had only been in the country nine months. He was hand- 
some, intelligent, and polished, and seemed contented in the dis- 
charge of his duties as pastor to these simple people. He had a 
garden, the only one of La Paz, and in it he had brought to per- 
fection a limited variety of vegetables, among which was the 
cauliflower, the finest I have ever seen ; but his success had not 
stimulated the villagers to a similar experiment. The people 
live on beef every day of the year, and every year of their lives, 
and care too little for fruits and vegetables to begin their culti- 
vation. 

"The pastures of this neighborhood are very fine; the horses 
and horned cattle of the surrounding country celebrated. The 
growth of wood is not confined to the borders of the main river, 
but extends for some distance into the interior, and skirts all the 
small streams that find an outlet into the Parana. By agreement 
with the people of the country, an abundant supply may be ob- 
tained for steamers. 

" Senor Antonio Descalso supplied the Water Witch, and would 
gladly enter into similar contracts. This port is not unlike that 
of Parana — Bajada — with this advantage, that the shore may be 
more nearly approached. A chain of low sandy islands between 
the channel and the main land protects it from the strength of the 
current. As the anchorage was good, we { cast off' the coal-hulk, 
which had been thus far in tow of the Water Witch from Monte- 
video, secured her here as our coal depot, and, having made the 
usual observations, proceeded on our voyage up the river. 

" Three and a half miles from La Paz we reached the pass of 
San Juan, and found a depth of but ten feet water, caused by nu- 
merous islands, which extend for some distance, and form various 
channels, making this the most difficult pass we encountered, and 
subsequently ascertained it to be the worst in the river. Howev- 
er, a shoal with a depth of ten feet at low water can scarcely be 
considered a serious obstacle in river navigation. San Juan is 
four hundred and forty-five miles from Buenos Ayres. Up to this 
place the least depth we had obtained was fourteen feet ; and it is 



92 CHANGES OF CHANNEL. 

fair to infer that at this time the Water "Witch was not in the chan- 
nel, for but one or two casts of the lead gave so little water." 

In this neighborhood the officers had fine opportunities of show- 
ing their skill as sportsmen. We were now dependent upon guns 
and fishing-lines for a supply of fresh provisions ; and so teeming 
with animal life was both land and water, that the mess-table was 
not only abundantly supplied with delicious game and fish, but, 
with encouraging success, we added to our collections in natural 
history. 

Near La Paz, Lieutenant Amen brought down a fine swan ; it 
was our first, and secured as a specimen. The Perdiz grande — large 
partridge, Pavo del Monte — wild turkey, or turkey of the woods, 
and the Gcdlina del Mb/ite — wild hen, were found in quantities, 
and would be esteemed as delicacies on a Lucullian table ; but, 
forced to live upon them for some weeks, we would gladly have 
exchanged them for a good butcher's joint. 

From latitude 30° 4A' 8", four miles beyond La Paz, the general 
course of the river is north up to 29° ll 7 south, ninety-three miles 
by difference of latitude, and ninety-eight by the sinuosities of the 
channel ; a remarkable directness, its windings differing from a 
right line only five miles. At this point, Vuelta del Norte — " Bend 
of the North," the river, as if wearied of a direct course, winds 
about in a most extraordinary manner, now north, here south, 
through sixteen points of the compass. Among the islands which 
cause the shallow channels of San Juan, numerous changes are 
constantly taking place. This may be discovered by comparing 
the charts of Captain Sullivan, E. N., who made, in 1847, a running 
survey of the Parana to Corrientes, with the charts of our expedi- 
tion, the surveys for which were made in 1853 and 1854. Not 
only the channels, but the appearance of the river were in some 
places materially changed. Islands have been enlarged, others 
reduced in size ; some have disappeared altogether, and their po- 
sitions, as marked upon his chart, are now, in some instances, the 
channel of the river. The track of the Water Witch at the lower 
pass of San Juan passes directly over the position of an island 
marked on Sullivan's charts. This proves nothing wrong in his 
surveys ; but it is an interesting fact, showing the remarkable phys- 
ic nl changes constantly produced by the action of the currents, 
which, if watched and studied with care, would doubtless develop 
soi ae inter< ssting law of nature governing and controlling the move- 
men t of these waters. 



CAPINCHAS.— LOCUSTS. 93 

On leaving La Paz, we had on the left bank the province of 
Corrientes, on the right " El gran Chaco." In latitude 30° 20', the 
Eiver Espinilla, an unimportant stream, that takes its rise in the 
province of Corrientes, disembogues in the Parana ; and near this 
place we saw two capibaras or capinchas on the bank, which our 
carbines soon enabled us to secure as specimens. The y were male 
and female ; the former weighing one hundred pounds, and meas- 
uring in length three feet seven and a half inches ; the female nine- 
ty-one pounds, and three feet seven inches in length. It seems to 
form a link between the hare and the hog, having the mouth and 
teeth of the former, and the head, skin, and hair of the latter. A 
thick membrane unites four toes on the fore, and three on the hind 
foot, making them semi- web-footed. The male may be distinguish- 
ed from the female by a horny protuberance of an inch and a half 
on the nose. Both have a similar prominence on each hind leg 
from three to four inches in length. It feeds on vegetables, and is 
never seen at any distance from a lake or river, into which it dash- 
es at full speed when pursued ; sometimes precipitating itself from 
banks of twenty feet elevation, and diving under the water, where 
it will remain for several minutes. When not in motion, it is in- 
variably seen in a sitting posture, and its inactive, clumsy move- 
ments on land would make it an easy prey to the jaguar, did not 
its instinct teach it to seek protection in the water. The flesh of 
this animal is similar in appearance to that of the hog, and, had we 
not been supplied with such abundance of game and fish, we might 
have regarded it as a delicacy ; it was served up by some of the 
men at their messes, and its savory odor made it quite a tempting 
dish. 

" September 6th. Atmosphere clear, sky cloudless. Witnessed an 
extraordinary spectacle. I called the pilot's attention to a black 
cloud in the northeast which seemed to be rapidly approaching. 
Eyeing it attentively for a minute through the telescope, he pro- 
nounced it a swarm of locusts. They came at last in myriads, 
darkening the air. Some fell on deck, or were caught by the rig- 
ging and spars. They were migrating from a part of the country 
which they had denuded of all vegetation, to new fields or orchards 
destined to share the same fate." Subsequently, in Paraguay, I had 
an opportunity of witnessing their destructive power. A swarm 
took possession of an orange grove, which in a short time was left 
as leafless as the orchards of northern latitudes in mid-winter. 
The young locusts, before they make their first flight, are the most 



94 DEER CHASE 

destructive. Fortunately, for the labors of man would be of little 
avail did a contrary law prevail, these visitations are not frequent 
or even annual; the inhabitants of the country, from observation 
of the habits of these insects, know when they may expect to suf- 
fer from their ravages. The beginning of October is the season at 
which they usually appear. They swarm in myriads, having the 
appearance, as we saw them, of a dark, threatening cloud ; and on 
their approach, a number of persons collect, who, with whoops, 
yells, and deafening noises, sometimes succeed in driving away the 
plague ; but should they settle upon a tract of uncultivated land in 
the vicinity, it is then well understood that the surrounding vege- 
tation will suffer. They deposit their eggs ; in December the young 
locusts appear, and before the first flight in February, spread over 
neighboring orchards and fields, feeding continuously for several 
weeks. 

' My journal reminds me that this is the first night we have suf- 
fered from musquitoes, but we are well supplied with nets and bars. 

" September 7 th. No longer in sight of the high lands of Corrien- 
tes. The course of the river is interrupted by numberless and 
nameless islands, also the mouths of various riachos, some of which 
course through the firm lands on the left bank before again unit- 
ing with the main river, thus affording convenient access to the 
estancias. In latitude 29° 50 ; , at Kiacho Timbo, got one cast of 
the lead often feet, there being immediately below and above it a 
depth of fourteen and twenty-one feet. I designate only the shal- 
lowest points of the river, which call for vigilance on the part of 
the pilot. Throughout, with these exceptions, the invariable depth 
was from twenty to seventy feet. At Paso Patil it is again divided 
into many branches. Here we found a depth of but ten feet." 

While in the act of anchoring to ascertain the direction of the 
channel, we saw a deer swimming majestically from the east to the 
west bank. It offered an occasion not only of securing a specimen, 
but fine sport for officers and men. A boat was soon engaged in 
the chase, which was kept up for some time with great spirit, and 
infinitely to the amusement of those looking on from the Water 
Witch. Its movements and speed were wonderful, calling forth 
our admiration as it turned first to the left, then to the right, or 
again dashed forward, but evading capture by the most skillful 
manoeuvres. As we were anxious to secure it alive, that its skin 
alight be preserved perfect, the chances of escape for the noble an- 
imal w ere g r< >at The lasso, thrown in gaucho style, at last did its 



THE DEER.— EIACHO CARAGUATAY. 95 

work ; a desperate struggle then commenced, but was soon ended 
by a skillful blow dealt & la matador by one of the party. Because 
of its enormous size, it was with difficulty gotten into the boat. 
It weighed two hundred and sixty-eight pounds, and measured in 
length eighty inches without the tail ; around the body forty-eight 
inches, and forty -four in height. Its color was a reddish-brown, 
hair long and thick ; in many points answering to the guazu pucu 
of Azara, but again there were striking peculiarities in which they 
differed widely. There was a remarkable cavity of three fourths 
of an inch under each eye, emitting a' powerful odor of musk ; also 
a cheese-like substance of most offensive smell on each side of the 
upper jaw, in a sack, with a conduit into the nostrils. The people 
of the country told us that, to make the flesh of this deer palatable, 
it was necessary to cut out these offensive parts before life was ex- 
tinct. "We had no opportunity of making the experiment, but a 
saddle of this specimen, served up in good style at our table, set at 
defiance the keenest appetite, so strongly did it savor of musk. 
We were also told that, as a means of defense when pursued, it 
exhales, at intervals of a few seconds, an odor so offensive as to 
deter both men and dogs from the chase. We know that nature 
provides some animals with a similar power of protection, and it 
is not improbable that this species of deer may possess it ; but in 
its pursuit, which was on water, this peculiarity was not perceived 
by the party from the Water Witch. 

Fifteen miles above, we anchored to examine the Paso Patil, lat- 
itude 29 °15 / . We passed the junction of the Eiacho Caraguatay, 
which branches off from the main river thirteen miles by its course, 
but in a right line five. It takes its name from an aloe (so called 
by the Guarani Indians), which, in treating of Paraguay, I shall de- 
scribe. It is there found in great abundance ; is one of the most 
valuable indigenous products of that rich country, and will doubt- 
less become, in course of time, an article of trade. 

We had advanced two miles when we passed the mouth of the 
Riacho San Geronimo, flowing into the Parana from the Chaco. 
It branches off from the main river seventeen miles above, and is 
named from a Jesuit establishment, formed at that point in 1748, 
among the celebrated Apibones. ISTot a vestige of it remains, al- 
though it numbered at one period four hundred and eighty souls. 

The river here makes the Yuelta del Norte, to which I have al- 
luded, and describes an S; then takes a direction of N.N.E., which 
it maintains to latitude 28° 40' south, and thence, to the town of 



96 GOYA. 

Corrientes, the general course of north. The country is low on 
both sides up to latitude 29° 01/ south, when the firm lands again 
have an elevation of forty feet. 

Sixteen miles, by the course of the river, from the Yuelta del 
Norte, we anchored off the mouth of the Goya, on which is situated 
a town of the same name three miles above; at the season of low 
water vessels of more than four feet draught can not make a nearer 
approach. I visited the authorities of Goya, and received the usual 
civilities, which every native of this country, however humble his 
position or deficient in education, knows how to offer in the most 
pleasing manner. 

The town has 7000 inhabitants, and possesses considerable trade. 
It is an outlet for the products of a fine back-country — the in- 
terior of Corrientes — which receives, in return, supplies of mer- 
chandise. There is nothing prepossessing in the appearance of 
Goya, or the immediate surrounding country ; it is low, and the 
pastures are less rich than those of other parts of the province. 
Civil wars have left their desolating mark upon this part of Cor- 
rientes. Cattle have been destroyed, and the people diverted from 
agricultural and pastoral pursuits to fighting among themselves. 
A happier system will doubtless prevail under the existing Con- 
federation. Even at this time, the trade in hides and tallow is 
very considerable. Having accomplished our business in the town, 
in descending the river to the Water Witch, we saw two capinchas 
seated upon the bank. They allowed the boat to approach with- 
in half of its length, when, with the grunt of a hog, they dashed 
into the thicket. The boat's crew were soon in pursuit, but had 
scarcely entered the bushes at different points, when the animals 
bounded forth, and precipitated themselves into the river. With 
some management, the capincha might easily be secured on land, 
as its movements are awkward and slow. Each man, on this oc- 
casion, thought that another had allowed the game to escape ;' but 
all had some sport, and a capincha chase will doubtless serve as 
the foundation for a long yarn in their next man-of-war cruise. 
The usual observations were made to determine the position of 
the mouth of the Goya. 

We had ascended about eight miles, where the left bank of the 
river attains an elevation of from forty to one hundred and twenty 
feet, which continues unbroken to the town of Bella Yista, in lati- 
tude 28° 29' south, longitude 59° 07' 02" west. On this range are 
some fine cstancias. The dwellings on these estates are generally 



BELLA VISTA.— PKODUCTIONS. 97 

of adobe, thatched, with neither gardens nor ornamented grounds 
about them, but lovely orange-groves. These are not only profit- 
able, but the delicious shade they afford renders them the favorite 
resort for the siesta. On the right bank the lands of the Chaco 
rise from twelve to fifteen feet, and continue at this height for 
some miles, when they are again broken by low islands. This 
elevation characterizes generally the banks of the Parana and 
Paraguay throughout the Chaco. 

Twenty miles above Goya we found a remarkable change in 
the channel from the west to the east of the island of Tunas. It 
thence skirts the left bank until within a few miles of Bella Vista, 
where its course is again broken by a number of islands. Two 
miles above Tunas we were compelled to anchor and make an ex- 
amination of its course. Here is a pass, throughout which the 
channel is narrow and tortuous, with a depth of but ten feet ; it 
extends for a short distance only. Just below Bella Vista, the 
left bank rises one hundred and thirty feet, forming a bluff called 
Gruayafia, from an aboriginal tribe of that name, who formerly 
claimed the surrounding country. A remnant of these Indians, 
now quiet and demi-civilized, still occupy a few huts in the vicinity. 

Bella Vista has about one thousand inhabitants, and boasts a 
Plaza, a church, and commandancia, or office of the commander of 
the district. I found here one of our countrymen, who had estab- 
lished himself in the neighborhood for the purpose of cultivating 
cotton, which is a perennial plant, and is said to produce abun- 
dantly for fifteen years ; that of the best quality is the product of 
the first and second j^ears. I learned subsequently that he did 
not succeed in his enterprise. There is also residing here an En- 
glishman, engaged largely in the manufacture of molasses and 
aguardiente. Corn is the principal cereal, but grown only for 
home consumption, though it might be made an article of profit- 
able trade. The oranges and peaches are of excellent quality. 
Indeed, Nature seems to have exhausted her bounty upon these 
Argentine States. They have the products of temperate and trop- 
ical zones ; their woods and flora are rarely equaled ; the climate 
is neither enervating nor severe, and the atmosphere never laden 
with miasma. What a land of promise to European emigrants ! 

So anxious are the government and people to induce immigra- 
tion, that lands are freely given. The fertility of the soil is every- 
where made available to trade, through the natural canalization, 
formed by branches which, diverging from the main rivers, and 

• 7 



98 FISHING.— MONKEY-HUNTING. 

coursing for a long distance through the interior country, again 
find an outlet in the central waters. With the mechanical aids of 
this progressive age, the labor of one man would be equal to that 
of ten in regions less favored. The agricultural tribes of the Chaco 
might furnish herdsmen and farm-assistants. I have alluded to 
the successful experiments on the western borders, with these In- 
dians as laborers. 

While at anchor off Bella Vista for a night, the officers amused 
themselves by a mode of fishing familiar to me, from having seen 
it practiced along the shores of York Eiver, in Virginia. Vast 
quantities of a species of fish, known in the Chesapeake as the 
"Jumping Mullet," are found in this part of the Parana. Push- 
ing quietly up stream after dark, with the shoal between the fish- 
ing-party and the shore, the men rapped on the sides of the boat, 
the frightened fish leaped out of the water in every direction, 
hundreds at the same time jumping into the boat. In an incredi- 
bly short time the whole ship's company were in this manner sup- 
plied with a mess. In York Eiver the fishermen carry a light 
elevated some three or four feet, and cover their boats with twigs 
to prevent the escape of their prisoners. 

The numerous islands above and below Bella Vista cause sev- 
eral difficult passes, where we found a depth of but ten feet. The 
most intricate is three miles above, where the channel, with a 
width of three quarters of a mile, forms a serpentine figure. Pass- 
ing near the island of Tobaco, fifteen miles above Bella Vista, one 
of the crank straps broke, which obliged us to anchor for repairs. 

I landed on Tobaco Island with my gun in search of specimens. 
Monkeys chattered in the trees above our heads. I shot four, cor- 
responding to the species " Caraza" described by Azara. One of 
them lived for some minutes ; it touched its wound, looked at the 
blood, then at me with a glance piteous and reproachful ; its moans 
were plaintive, and really touching from their resemblance to those 
of a human being. I resolved never again to shoot a monkey. 
The pilot, who was with me, shot a Ciconia, an enormous bird, a 
species of stork. One of the sailors, from a nest on the top of a 
lofty tree, secured two young ones, and, hoping to preserve them 
alive, we took them on board. For a few days they thrived, and 
T imagined that we should have no difficulty in rearing them, but 
I was disappointed. The skins of the monkeys and old birds 
were brought home in good condition ; those of the young ones 
were too delicate for preservation. 



ORANGE ESTANCIA. 99 

u Our damage repaired, we proceeded. Passed the Kiacho ISTatu 
on the Chaco side, in the same parallel as Tobaco Island. The 
river now courses east for ten miles, when it again assumes a 
northerly direction. The right bank within this distance is known 
in the country as Chimbola coast." 

I could not learn the origin of this designation, but it is very 
usual to find different sections of the banks distinguished by some 
particular name, occasionally derived from that of the present or 
former owners. 

At the point where the Parana pursues a northerly course, the 
Kiacho Natu branches off, and two miles above we passed the 
mouth of the Taquari Chico, which rises in the Chaco. Its banks, 
so far as we could judge, were well wooded, and there was a 
quantity of timber cut, ready for use. I found uniformly great 
difficulty in procuring any information of the interior of the Chaco ; 
but, from the appearance of its banks, and the growth upon them, 
I decided that the Taquari Chico was not a riacho, but a river. 
Opposite its mouth is an island of the same name, and five miles 
above is the little village of Capilla del Senor — " Chapel of the 
Lord," on the elevated land of the left bank. An island inter- 
cepts the view when on the same parallel ; and between it and the 
main land courses a riacho of equal width with the main channel, 
which some years past was navigable for vessels of the usual size, 
but it now admits only of the passage of boats. 

Passing this island, we had again the firm lands of Corrientes, 
washed by the waters of the main river for a distance of fifteen 
miles, to the estancia Domingo de la Torre. This is the property 
of Don Pedro Domingo de la Torre, and is reputed to be one of the 
finest estancias in the province. It is famous for its orange-groves, 
in which there are five thousand trees in full bearing, and the same 
number coming on ; the net profit from it is, as I learned, five 
thousand dollars per annum, for the facilities of navigation ren- 
der the cultivation of this fruit profitable ; and though the oranges 
of Corrientes are not equal, either in size or quality, to those of 
Brazil or Paraguay, they are good, and meet with a ready sale, 
not only in the markets of Buenos Ayres, but in all the villages 
and towns of the country. Next to beef, it is among all classes 
the principal and favorite article of food,, and my only astonish- 
ment is that groves are not to be found on all the estancias of the 
country, where soil and climate both favor their propagation. 

For the first time, we met with the Camilote, a species of water- 



100 AREIVAL AT CORRIENTES. 

lily, which floats with the current, and is a sure indication of the 
rising of the waters in the higher parts of the river. This plant 
grows with great rapidity during the season of low water, near 
the banks, but at the rise it is rooted up and carried down by the 
current. Here, too, we could see the effect of the mingling of the 
waters of the Parana and Vermejo. The latter, flowing through 
a more recent alluvial formation, and with a current of one third 
greater velocity, rushes into the comparatively limpid waters of 
the Parana, carrying an immense quantity of detritus. 

Corrientes is twelve miles above the Estancia Domingo cle la 
Torre. Between these two points, on' the right bank, a riachu- 
elo and a more important stream, the Eio Negro, flow into the 
Parana from the Chaco. The latter, it is said, affords good boat 
navigation for a long distance into the interior. Fine timber is 
found on the banks, which is floated down to its mouth, and re- 
ceived on board of vessels below. 

We anchored off Corrientes on the 23d of September. My first 
visit was to the governor, Senor Don Juan Pujol. As it was an 
official call, it was made at La Casa delEstado — " The State House," 
a one-storied quadrangular building of brick, with a wide entrance 
leading to a court, upon which opened all the reception rooms 
and offices. As my name was announced in entering, the gov- 
ernor, who was seated at a long table covered with business-look- 
ing documents, rose, and advanced with many courteous expres- 
sions of welcome. Placing me upon a sofa, he seated himself, and, 
after the usual civilities, turned the conversation to the explora- 
tion of the rivers. He spoke with deep interest of the benefit it 
would confer upon the Argentine States, and alluded to the iso- 
lated condition which the selfish policy of Kosas had imposed 
upon them, and the consequent ignorance of the people as to 
the wealth of their own resources. Our expedition, he hoped, 
would stimulate immigration and commercial enterprise toward 
La Plata. Governor Pujol showed himself to be a man of intel- 
ligence and education ; and after an interview and conversation 
protracted far beyond the limits of an official visit, by a manifest 
disposition on his part to do so, I left hirn, with the assurance 
that any aid in his power for the advancement of our work would 
be given. These professions were made with apparent sincerity, 
and I afterward had the satisfaction to find that they were acted 
out in good faith. 

The following day the governor, accompanied by a friend, re- 



NAVIGATION OF THE PARANA. 103 

turned my visit, and was welcomed on board the first United 
States man-of-war that had touched at Corrientes. I explained 
to him that, fitted up for an exploring expedition, we hesitated 
to call her a war steamer, but could show him some fire-arms of 
the latest improvement, in the examination of which he ex- 
pressed great interest. 

Corrientes has twelve thousand inhabitants, and is on the left 
bank of the Parana, twenty miles below its junction with the 
Paraguay. It has an extended water-front, and the anchorage 
admits of a near approach to the- shore, where vessels are re- 
moved from the influence of the currents. The town is laid out 
in the usual style of Spanish American cities, with streets inter- 
secting each other at right angles. There are several churches 
of some architectural pretension, but generally the buildings are 
one-storied, with "azoteas." The better class of private dwell- 
ings are of brick, very spacious, with open courts adorned with 
orange -trees and gay flowers. They are all neatly plastered and 
whitewashed on the exterior. The interior arrangements, with- 
out any effort at decoration, are comfortable. The rooms are 
constructed with a special regard to the climate, and, with the 
same consideration, simply but appropriately furnished. I shall 
again allude to this place, as the operations of the expedition 
obliged us subsequently to visit it. 

Before proceeding farther, it may not be unimportant to note 
one or two facts connected with our passage up the " Parana," 
and to sum up the names and distances of the most prominent 
points, from its mouth at Martin Garcia to its junction with the 
Paraguay. It must be remembered that the Water "Witch, with a 
draught of nine feet, ascended the Parana in the month of Sep- 
tember, the season of low water, when the pilot pronounced the 
river lower than usual ; that she encountered no shoal which she 
could not pass over with that draught, and that the least depth 
ever shown by the lead in the channel was nine feet. The navi- 
gation is attended with no danger; there are neither rocks nor 
sunken trees to impede the way, and, notwithstanding the shifting 
of the channel which annually takes place at some points, there is 
always one open with the usual depth of water. The velocity of 
the current is two and a half miles the hour. The rise of the wa- 
ter, which begins in December, is about twelve feet. It reaches 
its maximum in February and March, and its minimum in August. 
There is also a partial rise of six feet in October, which, rapid and 



104 THE RIVER PROVINCES. 

transient, continues one month, then falls to its former level in the 
same space of time. From Diamante upward there are fine woods, 
and much of it is excellent as fuel for steamers ; beef and fruits 
may be purchased at all the towns, and game and fish had for the 
trouble of seeking them. But the Spanish Americans care little 
for this latter food — indeed, they are prejudiced against it; and 
above Buenos Ayres, where a large foreign population gives rise 
to a demand for it, the people, neither for trade nor amusement, 
employ themselves in fishing. 

The confluence of the Parana and Paraguay is about one thou- 
sand miles from the Atlantic. The country on both sides is fer- 
tile, and above Buenos Ayres, on the firm lands, there are nu- 
merous estancias, extending from the river banks for many miles 
into the interior. I have been filled with amazement at the re- 
sources of these "riverine" provinces, and their availability, with- 
out the construction of roads, canals, or even the usual obstruc- 
tions of river navigation, for direct trade with foreign countries. 
In this course of one thousand miles, the cereals, vegetables, fruits, 
woods, and flora of almost every zone may be grown to perfection, 
as is proved by the actual products under the present primitive 
system of culture. The horned cattle, horses, and sheep are re- 
markably fine, and their existing numbers, spite of the civil wars 
which have distracted the country, show the extraordinary adapt- 
ability of the climate and natural pastures to their increase. The 
population is sufficient to form the basis of an extended and im- 
mediate trade ; and the Indians, with the exception of the warlike 
tribes of the Chaco, are quiet or semi-civilized. The climate is 
benign, even in low, marshy neighborhoods, as experienced by 
ourselves, and attested by many writers, particularly Azara, who 
was employed by the Spanish government to run the boundary- 
line between its possessions and those of Portugal, and spent 
twenty years of his life in this work. The Spanish Americans 
and Mestizos we met with were uniformly friendly and hospitable, 
and the cities and small towns offer some agreeable society. Be- 
yond or above Buenos Ayres there are neither Protestant schools 
nor churches, but there is nothing forbidding them in the Consti- 
tution of the Argentine Confederation. 

The distances of points alluded to in the ascent of the Parana, 
between its mouth or " Martin Grarcia" and " Cerito," at the 
mouth of the Paraguay, are, in statute miles, as follows : 



TABLE OF DISTANCES. 105 

From Martin Garcia to the Ghiazu 24 miles. 

« Guazu* to San Pedro '. . 88 " 

•« San Pedro to San Nicholas 40 " 

" « « to Obligado 10 " 

" San Nicholas to Arroyo del Medio .... 2 " 

" " " toRosario 52 u 

" Rosario to San Lorenzo 14J " 

" " to mouth of the Cacarana 22 " 

" " to Diamante. . 6T " 

t; Diamante to Parana 36 " 

" Parana to La Paz . . 102 " 

" La Paz to Goya 145 " 

<• Goya to Bella Vista 53 '•' 

" Bella Vista to Corrientes 81 " 

" Corrientes to Cerito . 18 " 



CHAPTEE VI. 

The Waters of the Paraguay and Parana. — Affluents of the Paraguay. — Enter 
the Territory of Paraguay. — Salute to the Admiral of the Navy of the Kepublic 
of Paraguay. — Visit from the Admiral. — Boundaries of the South American Re- 
publics. -r-Banks of the Paraguay. — Palm-trees and beautiful Scenery. — Guardias 
and Piquetes. — Tres Bocas. — Guardia Humaita. — President Lopez and the Bra- 
zilian Squadron. — Vermejo River. — Pillar. — Cana. — Caranday Palm. — The Ti- 
biquari. — Salute of Musketry. — Villa Franca. — The Commandante. — The Las- 
so and Bolas. — Oliva. — Villa Villeta. — A Cigar with the Commandante. — San 
Antonio. — Mount Lambare. — Arrival at Asuncion. — Rise and Fall of the Para- 
guay. 

After remaining three daj^s at Corrientes, we obtained observa- 
tions for determining its geographical position and variation of the 
compass. I also commenced here a series of observations, to be 
pursued at suitable points, for determining the characteristics of the 
waters of the eastern and western affluents. While those from 
the east are generally pure, those flowing from the west, through 
the Chaco, are, with few exceptions, saline. Azara says that in 
summer, at the season of low water, nearly all the springs, lakes, 
and streams of that region are " more or less brackish." Accord- 
ing to Father Patino, a Jesuit, who in 1721, accompanied by sev- 
eral of his order and sixty Guarani Indians, made a partial ex- 
ploration of the Pilcomayo, with the hope of discovering a water 
communication between the missions of Chiquitos and those of the 

* Mouth of the Parana. 



106 ENTER THE TERRITORY OF PARAGUAY. 

east, the lands through which this river courses are in many 
places strongly impregnated with salt, " sal comun bueno, en varias 
partes de las barrancas" — " Grood common salt in various parts of 
the banks." 

Much to my surprise, I found that the graduation of the hy- 
drometer sunk entirely below the surface of the water, thus giving 
no reading. I was unwilling to believe that the mingled waters 
of the Parana and Paraguay were of less specific gravity than dis- 
tilled or pure rain water. The standard temperature of the instru- 
ment was 60° Fahrenheit, some degrees below that of the water 
we were now endeavoring to test : in that lay a solution of the 
difficulty. 

To the junction of the Parana and Paraguay, twenty miles above 
Corrientes, the course of the former river is interrupted by low 
islands. Here it takes a general direction east, and the Paraguay 
a tortuous course north. Three miles above Corrientes are the 
islands Medio and Mesa, on the left. There the water, hitherto 
comparatively clear, becomes turbid from commingling with that 
of the Yermejo, or Bed Eiver, so called from the discoloration 
caused by the detritus borne along by it during the periodical 
floods. Some distance above, the Yermejo flows into the Para- 
guay. Opposite the upper end of the island Mesa is the mouth 
of a small arm of the Paraguay, Eiacho Atajo, which branches off 
from the main river three miles above its confluence with the Pa- 
rana. 

A continuous chain of low islands now skirt the west bank of 
the Parana up to that of Atajo, at the confluence of the Parana 
and Paraguay. This island is claimed as the territory of the Ar- 
gentine Confederation, but Paraguay has possession, and maintains 
it, not by diplomacy or argument, but by the establishment of 
a military post upon it — " Gruardia Cerito," latitude 27° 17' 32", 
longitude 58° 37' 32". 

If it had not been the established rule of our work to anchor 
and take observations at all important points, custom, or, indeed, 
the laws of Paraguay, made it obligatory to stop here and commu- 
nicate with the commandante before continuing the ascent of the 
river. Immediately on anchoring, the Water Witch was visited 
by two officers with the compliments of the admiral. This was a 
naval station, and the officer in command, with the imposing title of 
"Admiral of the Navy of the Republic of Paraguay, "had a squad- 
ron of five small vessels. We had heretofore, on all public occa- 



THE ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET. 107 

sions since entering La Plata, avoided firing salutes on account of 
our chronometers, upon which, the accuracy of the work depended. 
I considered it now useless to offer explanations or excuses, and 
fearing that my motive might be misinterpreted, we took the usual 
precautions to protect the instruments, and saluted the admiral (the 
Paraguay flag " at the fore") with thirteen guns, which was immedi- 
ately returned with a corresponding number. Salutes having thus 
been exchanged, the admiral came on board, and expressed much 
pleasure at our arrival, assuring me that a cordial welcome await- 
ed the expedition at Asuncion. He had received, a month previ- 
ously, instructions from the President to offer me every facility for 
ascending the river ; to supply us with any provisions we might 
need, and an experienced pilot. This first reception in the waters 
of Paraguay was certainly cheering ; for, from what we had heard, 
we knew that President Lopez was here the government supreme, 
from whose orders there could be no appeal or deviation. 

We found the river full at its highest point, verifying what I 
had heard, that the seasons of high and low water in the Parana 
and Paraguay were the reverse. 

Observations having been taken, the ascent was continued, the 
admiral and some of his officers being on board, and their canoe in 
tow. He wished to witness the working of our steamer, the first 
United States man-of-war that had ever entered the waters of the 
Paraguay. After ascending a mile, our friends took leave of us, 
and returned to Cerito Guardia. 

The appearance of the Paraguay offers some striking contrasts 
to the Parana. Its general width rarely exceeds half a mile ; it has 
comparatively few islands, a tortuous course, and a more open chan- 
nel. The current is from two to two and a half miles the hour. 

The country on the left bank is undisputed Paraguay territory ; 
that on the right is " El gran Chaco." The Argentine Confeder* 
ation claims the latter for a distance covering the mouth of the 
Vermejo, but Paraguay does not recognize this right, and main- 
tains her jurisdiction over that part of the river by a naval and 
military force, established not only at Cerito Guardia, but at va- 
rious other points. It is very difficult to obtain any reliable in- 
formation as to the grounds upon which these territorial limits in 
the Chaco are based. All the republics of La Plata have among 
them unsettled questions of boundary, but those relating to this 
country are founded upon original treaties made when the entire 
southern hemisphere was divided between Spain and Portugal. 



108 BANKS OF THE PARAGUAY. 

The ground in dispute between the Argentine States and Paraguay 
has only an extent of twenty -seven miles in latitude and forty by 
the course of the river, scarcely the length of many estancias; and 
in La Plata, where there are extended regions of fertile but waste 
lands, would be of no consequence but for its geographical features. 
It gives Paraguay command of the mouth of theVermejo, a river 
known to be navigable to the northwest provinces of the Argent- 
ine Confederation, Salta and Jujui. 

The banks of the Paraguay are less elevated than those of the 
Parana ; up to Asuncion, they rarely exceed twenty-five feet. To 
within a short distance of the capital their geological formation is 
unvarying: a substratum of yellowish sand of about ten feet thick- 
ness, a middle stratum of earthy clay, and a surface virgin soil of 
about three feet. The timber is abundant, and of excellent quality. 

"In the isles of the Parana," says my journal, "we have seen 
the lovely gardens of La Plata, we have now before us her parks. 
It is the region of the palm, which here rises to a great height. 
The grass is green, luxuriant, and clean as a well-kept lawn ; deer 
gambol under the trees, and it needs riot a vivacious imagination 
to conceive that, at each bend in the river, some noble mansion, to 
which these parks pertain, will appear. A few habitations are 
alone wanted to animate the landscape, and complete the pleasant 
association of homes in this fair land. There are extended for- 
ests of these palms, so symmetrical, fresh, free from all that could 
detract from their beauty ; growing apart at such exact, apparent- 
ly measured distances, that we are filled with astonishment and 
admiration." 

The east bank of the river is defended by guardias and piquetes 
throughout the extent of Paraguay, each occupied by from six to 
twelve men ; the piquetes being placed at intervals of three miles, 
while the guardias are more distant apart. They are the stations 
of a river police for the detection and prevention of smuggling, 
and also dispatch offices for the rapid transmission of intelligence 
to the capital. On the west bank there are no guardias ; and in- 
asmuch as the Indians of the Chaco have no canoes, the river is 
considered a sufficient barrier to prevent, on their part, any hostile 
or predatory incursions. 

Great as was the luxuriance of vegetation upon the Parana, as 
we approach the equator I find it enriched by a more varied and 
brilliant flora. Flowering shrubs abound, and delicately fragrant 
epiphytes. The trunks of large trees are enwrapped by climbing 



GUAKDIAS AND PIQUETES. 109 

plants, their long tendrils pendent, or festooning the lowest with 
the topmost branches, and enameling the dark foliage with their 
many-hned blossoms. 

The most important guardia above Cerito is that of Tres Bocas 
— " TJiree Mouths" so called from there being at that point two 
branches from the main river, the Atajo, to which I have alluded, 
and the Pires, which flows into the Parana some few miles above 
its junction with the Paraguay. Though distant from Cerito five 
miles, these two guardias are often confounded with each other 
under the name of Tres Bocas. Around the larger "guardias" 
there is some little cultivation of corn and mandioca, but as abodes 
they are generally desolate places. The houses consist merely of 
posts planted in the ground, interlaced with bamboo, filled in 
with mud, and thatched with common grass. The look-out is a 
platform of about sixty feet in height, open at the sides, and 
thatched with straw. It is generally so placed as to command an 
extensive view up and down the river. The piquetes are simply 
thatched sheds, with raw-hide hammocks for the men, suspended 
so as to be protected by the roof from rain. Of these, the Gruar- 
dia Humaita occupied one of the most commanding points on the 
Lower Paraguay, and there President Lopez, in 1855, erected quite 
a formidable battery, in anticipation of troubles with Brazil, and 
probably — certainly with good reason — with the United States. 

The imperial government felt aggrieved at some indignities 
offered to its minister at Asuncion, and sent a large naval force, 
consisting of several war steamers and transports, under the com- 
mand of Admiral , to demand satisfaction. We are left to 

infer, from a subsequent debate in the Imperial Legislature at 
Rio de Janeiro, that this officer was sent with discretionary power 
to fight or negotiate, as circumstances might render necessary. 
Negotiation was first resorted to, pending which the battery at 
Humaita was erected, and the imperial squadron, with the excep- 
tion of the admiral's flag-ship, in which he ascended to Asuncion, 
was kept below. This river defense was pushed on with great 
rapidity, and is of such strength that I believe it might have ar- 
rested the ascent of the squadron. The delay incident to this ne- 
gotiation was a move on the diplomatic chess-board showing abil- 
ity and astuteness on the part of President Lopez. The expedition 
was at that time a failure ; it, however, led to some after-proposi- 
tion which resulted in an amicable settlement of the differences, 
and the opening of the Paraguay to Brazilian vessels up to the 



HO THE VERMEJO.— PILAR. 

northwest province of the empire, whose natural outlet is un- 
doubtedly this river. This act of President Lopez, if extended 
to all flags, might be classed with the decree of Urquiza which 
opened the Argentine waters to the commerce of nations.* 

In latitude 26° 51/ 52" south, longitude 58° 28' 21" west, forty- 
eight miles above Cerito, the Eiver Vermejo pours its muddy 
waters into the Paraguay from the west. It rises in the Cordil- 
leras of the southern parts of Bolivia, and receives, in addition to 
many minor tributaries, the more important river Jujuy, or Lava- 
yan, which flows from the western ranges of Salta. From Palca 
de Soria, where the Vermejo may be said to enter the Chaco, it 
takes uhe general direction of southeast, under a very tortuous 
course, to its junction with the Paraguay, directly opposite to a 
guardia of the same name, undoubtedly placed there to give the 
republic exclusive control over its mouth. 

All the villages and guardias of Paraguay that have been or 
may hereafter be mentioned, it must be remembered, are on the 
east side of the river, with the exception of Cerito, which is upon 
an island. Pilar, in latitude 26° 51' 9", longitude 58° 22' 35", is 
the first village we meet with in ascending. In the time of Fran- 
cia, and before the opening of the river to Asuncion, this town, 
known as Nembucu, was a place of some commercial activity; 
that is, it was the only port on the Paraguay open to trade, and 
even to this point only those vessels that had received especial 
permission could ascend. 

We called upon the commandante, from whom I received many 
assurances of his desire to serve us. Cigars of the native tobacco 
were handed around, and cana — a liquor extracted from the sugar- 
cane, of which each member of the company was expected to 
take a sip. This liquor is usually taken without water, and is the 
most potent tipple that I have ever tasted. As soon as good-breed- 
ing would permit, I relieved my mouth of the burning sensation 
it produced by a glass of water. Pilar has two thousand inhab- 
itants, and is prettily placed on a fertile plain, elevated some 
twenty feet above the river. The streets are at right angles, and 
the houses, of one story, plastered and whitewashed, are roofed 
either with tile, the trunks of palm-trees, or thatched. 

This species of palm, the Caranday (Copernicia cerifera), forms 
an excellent covering, in this climate, and will last for thirty years. 
The trunks of the trees are divided, and the interior wood, which 

* This has more recently been done. 



THE TIBIQUARL— VILLA FRANCA. HI 

is very fibrous, taken out, leaving a shell of from one and a half 
to two inches in thickness, which beco5m.es hard and flinty when 
dry. These are placed side by side, with the convex surface up, 
extending from the pitch to the eaves ; their edges, when brought 
together, are covered by a third trunk, forming a roof not unlike 
tile, and quite as impervious to rain. This is the usual mode of 
covering the quintas and ranchos on the river, and the Chaco op- 
posite furnishes an inexhaustible supply of material. 

I found great difficulty here, as in every part of Paraguay, in 
obtaining any statistics, and can scarcely say whether this was to 
be attributed to the ignorance of the people, or to suspicion of my 
motive in making such inquiries. Some of the officers of the 
Water Witch occupied themselves with observations for geograph- 
ical determination, while others added to our collection by obtain- 
ing specimens of rare fish, and supplied our table with several va- 
rieties of excellent quality. 

Thirty miles above Pilar the Tibiquari empties into the Para- 
guay on the left bank. It rises in the central sierras of Paraguay, 
and in a westerly course passes through the most populous and 
fertile districts of the country. It could, at a mere nominal ex- 
pense, be made navigable at all seasons for steamers of two feet 
draught. The principal products of the interior, corn and tobac- 
co, now transported in wagons carrying one and a half tons each, 
could be conveyed to the capital in steamers of the capacity of 
fifty wagons in half the time, and at one third the cost. This 
river separates the two provinces, Villa Franca on the north, and 
Pilar on the south. The former is remarkable for its fertility, and 
its principal town, of the same name, is on the Paraguay, fifty- 
nine miles above Pilar. 

On approaching Villa Franca, I discovered, from the movements 
of the guard, that we were expected to land ; I consequently came 
to anchor. The bank leading to the town is ascended from the 
river by a flight of steps, and, as we reached the top, a squad of 
soldiers drawn up honored our arrival by two rounds of musketry. 
The novelty of this salute was rather startling, but we acknowl- 
edged it with due gravity, as a mark of respect for the "flag." 
The commandante received us with the usual ceremonies and 
hospitality. 

G-eneral Lopez, the son of the president, who is commander-in- 
chief of the army, was, at the time of our arrival in Paraguay, ab- 
sent on a diplomatic mission to the leading powers of Europe. 



112 



LASSO AND BOLAS. 



The good commandante spoke with enthusiasm of his absent gen- 
eral. He seemed to have a vague idea that he had been dispatch- 
ed to a great distance on very important business, but was rather 
at a loss to know whether that journey extended beyond the lim- 
its of Paraguay. He had magnificent ideas of the vastness and 
political importance of his country, a delusion, I afterward discov- 
ered, not peculiar to himself. 




V6E Oh' TliK LAtoO AJiD KOLAS. 



At his earnest request I accepted a beef for the ship's company : 
for a bullock is here taken from the herd, slaughtered, and por- 
tions served up at table in less time than it would take to kill and 
cook a fowl with us. In an incredibly short time after my ac- 
ceptance of his offer, a bellowing, plunging animal was brought 



OLIVA.— VILLA VILLETA. H3 

under the lasso, to the bank in front of the steamer, and there 
slaughtered for our use. 

Twelve miles beyond Villa Franca, and a quarter of a mile 
from the banks of the Paraguay, is the village Oliva. Here the 
river takes a serpentine course, and, for the first time, the banks 
on the Chaco side rise to the height of twenty feet, presenting a 
deep stratum of reddish clay beneath the vegetable surface-soil. 
They are well timbered with lapacho, quebracho, urunday, and a 
variety of other woods. Again this forest is succeeded by palms, 
which, like those of Paraguay, rise from vigorous and verdant 
plains of grass, without under-growth. Oliva stands on a plain 
twenty feet above the river, which has here overflowed the low 
lands in front, although this is not the reputed season of high wa- 
ter ; for the same uniformity which marks the periodical changes 
of the Parana does not prevail in the Paraguay. Twelve miles 
above this village, on the Chaco side, is Monte Linda, a beautiful 
grove of catigua. 

From Oliva to Villa Villeta, the next small town on the Para- 
guay, the distance is sixty-two miles. We anchored here after 
dark. As I was anxious to proceed early the next morning, not- 
withstanding the hour, I called to pay my respects to the chief 
dignitary of the village, whom I found seated under the project- 
ing roof of his house, surrounded by his family. While the offi- 
cers amused a group of villagers who had gathered around them 
with tales of the dangers they had passed, I smoked a cigar with 
the commandante by the dim light of a lantern that hung in front 
of his dwelling, designed as much to attract the musquitoes from 
within as to give light to the company without. Nearly all the 
houses of Villa Villeta are constructed with these projections, 
which serve the double purpose of protecting them from the 
scorching rays of the sun, and in the evening as places of resort 
for the inhabitants, who there sit, gossip and smoke — the latter 
an accomplishment not limited to age or sex. 

A short distance above this village the fine rolling lands of 
Paraguay opened before us, with inclosed and well-cultivated 
fields of corn, tobacco, and mandioca, alternated by beautiful palm 
groves. Nothing could be more picturesque or verdant than the 
country on both sides, and we had here what alone was needed 
to perfect the landscapes below — habitations and culture. Eanchos 
and quintas, surrounded by orange groves, were dotted here and 
there, multiplying as we approached the capital. 



114 ARRIVAL AT ASUNCION. 

Six miles above Villeta is the guardia of San Antonio, which 
was occupied in 1853 by " the American Company" established in 
Paraguay. Beyond this guardia we passed Mount Lambare, an 
isolated, conical wooded hill, of basaltic formation, rising abruptly 
from the river bank to the height of three hundred and twelve 
feet. On the opposite or Chaco side is the Eiacho Yaguare, into 
which empties the River Ypita, considered by some one of the 
two mouths of the Pilcomayo. 

A mile or two below the capital, the left banks become quite 
precipitous, presenting a stratum of reddish chalk beneath the 
surface-soil ; and immediately opposite is an island, across which 
is seen the upper branch or mouth of the Pilcomayo. Here the 
Paraguay turns abruptly east, and a mile above, on the left bank, 
stands Asuncion. 

"We anchored off the town on the 1st of October, and received 
a visit from the captain of the port. Preliminaries arranged, a 
national salute was fired from the Water "Witch, with the Para- 
guay flag at the fore, which was returned by the field-pieces of 
the garrison at the government house. 

The general width of the Paraguay up to the capital is half a 
mile, at some points less than a quarter. The least depth found 
was twenty feet, the greatest seventy-two, and "no bottom." 
Velocity of current in general, two miles per hour. There seems 
to be less uniformity in its rise and fall than in those of the Pa-' 
rana. It has now reached its maximum height, which it ordi- 
narily attains in December, and this is but the beginning of the 
"rising season." With a view of determining, with some degree 
of accuracy, its rise and fall, a graduated staff was " planted" in 
a suitable place, and the fall of the river observed from the 24th 
of October, 1853, to the 31st of March, 1854, throughout one en- 
tire period of falling, and a portion of its rise. It was estimated, 
at the time of the erection of the staff, that the waters had fallen 
two feet, and, judging from the rate at which it fell, the river must 
have been at its highest point the 1st of October. The greatest 
fall from October 1st to February 5th was thirteen feet three 
inches. 

To a clear comprehension of the fluctuation in the river during 
the time embraced, I take from the journal the following table 
kept by Lieutenant Ammen. 



EISE AND FALL OF THE PARAGUAY. 115 

Statement of the fall and rise of the River Paraguay, at Asuncion, from 
October 1st, 1853, to March 3lst, 1854. The river was above its ordi- 
nary high water on the 1st of October. 

Ft. In. 

From October 1st to 24th, supposed fall by marks ... 2 00 

" « 24th to 31st, by staff, river fell 08 

" « 31st to 29th Nov. " " 2 06 

" Nov. 29th to 2fth Dec. " " . . 4 00 

" Dec. 21th to 5th Jan. ■ " " 2 05 

" Jan. 5th to 12th « " " 08 

Fall of river from October 1st to Jan. 12th 12 03 

From January 12th to Jan. 21st, river rose 11 

Difference of level from Oct. 1st to Jan. 21st 11 04 

Ft. In. 

From Jan. 21st to Jan. 30th, river fell 09 

" " 30th to Feb. 5th " " 1_02 

1 11—1 11 

Greatest fall from Oct. 1st to Feb. 5th 13 03 

On February 28th, same level. 

From " 28th to March 31st, river rose 5 09 

Difference of level from October 1st to March 31st .... .1 06 

The width of the river at Asuncion by calculation was found 
to be six hundred and five yards. It has, up to the capital, few 
islands, and the navigation is less difficult than that of the Parana. 
Its waters are confined within narrower limits, and its channel 
has more uniformly the same depth. It has no such obstructions 
as rocks or sunken trees, but sufficient depth throughout the year 
for the largest river steamers, and enough at certain seasons for 
vessels of sixteen feet — the greatest draught that could be carried 
over the bar at Martin Garcia Island, under the ordinary rise of 
the tide at that point. The banks are wooded with fine timber 
throughout, save at limited sections subject to inundation. Much 
of this wood is valuable for building and ornamental purposes, 
and also as fuel for steamers, and the waters contain a great vari- 
ety of excellent fish, that may be caught either with seine or hook 
and line. 



11$ INTERVIEW WITH LOPEZ. 



CHAPTER VII; 

Interviews with President Lopez. — Negotiations.— -Residence at Asuncion. — The 
City. — Buildings. — Francia's Tomb. — Francia's Cruelties. — Isolation of Para- 
guay. — Francia's System. — Dahlgreen's Howitzer. — The American Company. — 
Celebration of Lopez's Birth-day. — Reception at the Government House. — Grand 
Ball at the Residence of the Chief Justice. — The Speech. 

On the day of our arrival I called on the Minister of Foreign 
Affairs, and presented my letters of credence from the Secretary 
of State, Mr. Everett. In this interview, " El Secretario" betrayed 
more curiosity than intelligence as to the objects of our expedi- 
tion. My visit ended with an appointment to call on the Presi- 
dent the same day at 4 o'clock. 

I was punctual to the hour, and found the corridor that sur- 
rounds the government house filled with soldiers, who gave the 
usual military salute as we passed. On entering the vestibule, 
where was stationed a small guard, an officer received my card, 
and taking it in to the President, I was, without a moment's de- 
tention, admitted to his presence. A door, on each side of which 
was stationed a soldier, gave access from the vestibule to a long, 
plainly-carpeted room, against the walls of which stood a row 
of cane-seat chairs, arranged with military precision. At the 
upper end was a circular table, where sat, with one arm resting 
upon it, "His Excellency Seiior Don Carlos Antonio Lopez," 
President of the Eepublic of Paraguay. The engraving on the 
opposite page will give the reader a more vivid impression of His 
Excellency's personal appearance than any description I could 
possibly offer. 

A chair was placed (I presume purposely) at the table before 
him, and, slightly raising his hat, without rising, as I approached, 
he requested me to be seated, and to place my hat on the table, 
which I afterward discovered was an act of condescension not to 
be too lightly esteemed. I showed him my commission from the 
President of the United States, of which he requested a copy, and 
explained to him the objects of the expedition under my com- 
mand. This reception was very unlike the unpretending but 
courteous style of the Provisional Director of the Argentine Con- 
federation. I afterward learned, however, that it was the usual 



LOPEZ. 



117 



etiquette observed by the President of Paraguay on all official oc- 
casions to remain seated with his hat on. The higher the rank 
of the visitor, the more particular is he in this observance. Sub- 
sequently I had frequent interviews with him, and occasionally I 
have known him to relax somewhat, and even to take his hat off; 
a mark, I was assured, of extraordinary personal favor toward 
myself He is about fifty-four, and has never been out of the 
confines of Paraguay, where, though ruling under the title of 
President, his authority is despotic and unquestioned. He is 
highly intelligent, well read, and familiar with the polity of for- 
eign governments; he is also an accomplished, but, as I after- 
ward discovered, unscrupulous diplomatist. 




CARLO ANTONIO LOPEZ, PRESIDENT OP PARAGUAY. 

Owing to the isolated position of his country, and her freedom, 
so far, from friction with governments foreign to La Plata, or from 
checks at home, he is rather defiant of the laws of nations. I 
found him, in conversation, far more agreeable and affable than I 



118 NEGOTIATIONS. 

had been led to suppose. He talks much, and well. After an 
interview of more than an hour, protracted by himself, he rose, 
and I took leave, impressed with his favorable disposition toward 
the expedition. 

After the lapse of a few days I called again, and presented the 
President with the plan of a steamer we wished to construct at 
Asuncion for the survey of the smaller tributaries of the river. 
I also gave him an estimate of the timber required for this purpose 
— for this is one of the national monopolies — and President Lo- 
pez being the government, all business to which it can be a party 
must be transacted with him. He examined the plan, read with 
care our list of requisites, and promptly said that instructions 
should be immediately given to supply us with the articles enu- 
merated, and any others that might be necessary for our purpose. 

We at once made preparations for building our little craft. 
The whole was intrusted to Lieutenant Ammen, who had drawn 
the plan, and now, with the assistance of one of the engineers, 
Mr. Lambden, began the work with energy. In the mean time 
I occupied myself with arrangements for continuing the explora- 
tion of the Paraguay. To obtain the necessary permission for 
this required some diplomacy, for in the treaty of commerce and 
navigation concluded * before my arrival it had been stipulated 
that the navigation of the river should be limited to Asuncion. 

There were unsettled questions as to territorial limits on the 
northern borders between Brazil and Paraguay, and the prohibit- 
ory decrees of President Lopez, in reference to the navigation of 
the river above the capital, were made with the, view of forcing 
Brazil to terms. In excluding other nations, without any posi- 
tive demonstration of hostility toward his Imperial Majesty, he 
deprived him of access through the Paraguay to the richest 
mineral districts of the empire. He said that, should he permit 
the Water Witch to ascend the river, Brazil would make the 
same demand, and he was resolved not to grant her that privilege 
in the present state of their political relations. I argued the char- 
acter of our expedition ; its manifest objects, which should not be 
considered in connection with others of a speculative or solely 
trading character. I suggested the possible value of its results to 
science, which I knew his intelligence enabled him fully to under- 
stand ; that, in giving to the wdrld a knowledge of waters "so little 
known," our explorations would confer a positive and immediate 
benefit upon his own and neighboring countries, while the people 



NEGOTIATIONS. • 119 

of the United States, and others at a greater distance, could be 
only remotely or incidentally interested. 

The point was conceded, and I was, of course, disposed to put 
upon it the most latitudinous construction ; that is, to ascend as far 
as I could in an ocean steamer. I understood uniformly, in my 
conversations with President Lopez, and from an official paper 
sent me relating to this subject, that I could carry our surveys 
throughout the limits of Paraguay north, or, indeed, beyond them, 
for permission was given me to ascend to Bahia ISTegra, in latitude 
20° 10' 14". 

Bahia ISTegra is conceded to Bolivia by both Brazil and Para- 
guay. From that point the President could neither direct nor 
check our operations, for I had already received permission from 
Bolivia to enter her waters, and from Brazil to ascend to Albu- 
querque, which was some distance within the acknowledged limits 
of the empire. I in fact ascended to Corumba, and should have 
gone farther but for the limitation designated by Brazil, and yet 
have felt that I had not placed too wide a construction upon the 
concession of the President of Paraguay. 

Before beginning the ascension of the river, I was obliged to 
contract for the delivery, at different points, of steamer fuel. This 
was again an official affair, and led to several visits to the govern- 
ment house. The agreements were all satisfactorily carried out ; 
but the cutting of woods for such a purpose being a new branch 
of industrial enterprise in those remote parts of Paraguay, I paid 
high, considering its extensive forests — that is, from four to five 
dollars per cord. The quality, however, was excellent, one cord 
proving fully equal to a ton of coal. 

When we arrived at Asuncion, I was aware that the business 
to which I have alluded would detain me some time ; I antici- 
pated, indeed, unnecessary delay, and knew, from experience, that 
it was useless to complain. One must enter upon every work in 
Spanish America with rather a patient, philosophical spirit ; but I 
soon discovered that, even with the Paraguayan, the almighty dol- 
lar had its influence, and believe that I eventually expedited the 
operation of my wood-cutters by adding a few additional pennies 
to the price per cord. 

Pending these preparations, and to avoid, in some degree, the 
excessive annoyance from musquitoes, I moved to an apartment in 
the " Calle del Sol." The rooms were nicely whitewashed, and, 
to rid them of the army of fleas, common enough to every house, 



120 • LIFE IN ASUNCION. 

my servant waged a successful war against them by flooding the 
tile-floors daily with water. The furniture was simple. There 
was a cot, with a snowy musquito-net, which had done good serv- 
ice during a long cruise in the China seas ; two cedar tables, two 
feet by four, served, one for dining, the other for books and writ- 
ing materials ; some crockery from the Water Witch, arranged by 
my boy in a cupboard, made a brilliant display, but a dozen rich- 
ly-carved, high-backed chairs, which dated from the time of the 
Jesuits, were the pride of the establishment, for in art those mis- 
sionaries were the Medici of La Plata. My "boy" was chamber- 
maid, butler, and cook. Koast beef, chickens, mandioca — a vege- 
table that would in any country be pronounced delicious — oranges 
at all times, grapes and figs in their season, were the luxuries of 
the table. Fine fish might have been added but for the indiffer- 
ence, indeed dislike of the Paraguayans, like all Spanish Ameri- 
cans, for that food ; for in towns rarely visited by strangers it is 
not often seen in their markets. Perhaps these may be considered 
trivialities ; I allude to them in illustration, for my style of living 
was not surpassed, if equaled, by that of the best houses of Asun- 
cion. There is no lack of neatness m their domestic arrange- 
ments, but no people are more simple in their habits ; indeed, one 
needs so little in that delicious climate, the costly and elaborate 
furniture, considered now a necessity in our country, would be here 
an annoying superfluity. Imperial carpets and brocatelle hang- 
ings would be as much out of place in Paraguay as a costume of the 
dog-days upon a Broadway pedestrian in the middle of January. 
Asuncion was first settled in 1536. It contains now about twelve 
thousand inhabitants, and is, according to our determinations, in 
latitude 25° 16' 30" south, longitude 57° 42' 42". It is prettily 
placed, the land rising, at the point where the city stands, some 
fifty feet above the river. With a few improvements, its position 
for commercial purposes would be eligible, but individual enter- 
prise has little scope, for the playa or landing is government prop- 
erty. During our stay in the country a quay of stone was built, 
and, though undoubtedly an important work, it would by no 
means sufficiently facilitate the dispatch of business should Asun- 
cion ever have an extensive foreign trade. The people are wedded 
to old habits, and will forever discharge and load vessels by canoes, 
should not some enterprising foreigner suggest a change. Owing 
to the extraordinary edicts of Francia, the streets are regular, and 
the frontage of the houses even ; for any luckless proprietor whose 









w-'^'Uf 




ASUNCION. 



123 



building impaired this uniformity during his administration had 
the satisfaction of having it, without previous intimation, under- 
mined, halved, or quartered, as the exigencies of the case might 
require. A piece was nicely sliced off, leaving saloons and bed- 
rooms minus half their previous dimensions. Some of these un- 
fortunate tenements are still standing, looking like a "big loaf" 
after dinner. 

The dwellings are uniformly of one story, some of them be- 
ing large and well-constructed, containing six, eight, or ten airy 
rooms opening upon a court. The bricks of which they are built 
are peculiar in form and size, being from twelve to fourteen inches 
in length, eight in breadth, and about two in thickness. The bet- 
ter houses are tiled, the roofs projecting some three or four feet 
beyond the eaves, but, in the erection of others more ordinary, 
the roof is the first part completed ; posts are driven into the 
ground, on these are placed sleepers to support the joists and 
rafters, strips of the cana or bamboo are placed transversely 
across, sufficiently close together to retain the mud or mortar, 
which serves to cement the joinings or unite the tile. In such 
houses the trunks of palm, prepared as I have described, are more 
frequently used than tiles. 

The principal public buildings are the "Cabildo," the Cathedral, 




THE OABILDO, ASUNCION. 



124 



FEANCIA. 




THE CATHEDRAL, ASUNCION. 



and two or three other churches, the latter dating from the time 
of the Jesuits. In the Cabildo the national Legislature meets. The 
churches are kept in good condition, but one was evidently less re- 
sorted to than others. The good people rarely allude to this, for 
a fearful mystery overhangs its sacred precincts ; it contained at 
one time all that was mortal of the Dictator Francia. There he was 
undoubtedly interred, and a monument erected over his remains. 
One fair morning the church was opened, as usual, for prayer ; this 
monument was scattered in fragments upon the floor, and the bones 
of the tyrant had disappeared forever — nobody cared how, nobody 
asked where. It was only whispered that the devil had claimed 
his own, body and soul. 

No modern era has produced a parallel to his iniquitous rule. 
For a quarter of a century, unchecked by the fear, reproaches, or 
notice of other governments, Francia tyrannized over this lovely 
country, and perpetrated a series of crimes, the recital of which fills 
us with horror. At his death, spite of the numberless executions 
which disgraced his administration, and which must have been his 
pastime, the prisons of Asuncion were gorged with more than sev- 
en hundred poor creatures, some of whom had been there twenty 



SYSTEM OF FRANCIA. 125 

years. They were broken down physically ; some were reduced 
to hopeless idiocy, and all were given back to the world to find 
that homes and families had been swept away during that fearful 
deluge of tyranny. 

It will be seen in another chapter that it was the policy of Spain, 
in her colonial government, to keep her transatlantic subjects from 
all communication with the outer world, while, at the same time 
— for this was the object of that system — the extent and resources 
of her possessions upon the American continent were carefully 
veiled from the knowledge of European nations. Paraguay, be- 
tween the parallels of 21° and 27° south, distant by the course of 
the river about one thousand miles from the Atlantic, and shut out 
from the Pacific by the Andean barrier, remained a terra incognita 
to all but Spanish officials. Aided by her geographical position, 
she was the first of the colonies to assert her independence ; but 
soon passing under the sway of Francia, who inflexibly maintain- 
ed non-intercourse with other nations, she has continued a region 
of the unknown. 

While the other republics of La Plata were, after their emanci- 
pation from Spanish rule, distracted by anarchy, Paraguay was 
comparatively tranquil ; it was not the quiet of progress and good 
government, but that of a political and social paralyzation, pro- 
duced by the system of Francia — a system that debased the na- 
tional mind, leaving it submissive to any rule, without moral or 
physical courage to resist oppression. 

He established, in time, such a compound system of espionage — 
spy placed over spy — and coerced the simple Paraguayans during 
his twenty-six years' rule into such timorous silence, that death 
seems scarcely to have released them from his thraldom. The 
people of the lower countries of La Plata will tell you that a Par- 
aguayan never mentions the name of the Dictator without looking 
behind him. His adherents and the instruments of his iniquity 
were the soldiers ; his victims, landed proprietors ; but, above all, 
those of Spanish origin, from confiscations of whose property his 
principal revenue was derived. 

When at Asuncion I saw much of Senor , whose family 

had suffered greatly during that reign of terror, and in his con- 
versations with me he frequently alluded to their wrongs. He 
was an amiable, gentlemanly, and intelligent person ; but he al- 
ways mentioned the name of Francia with reserve, in a half whis- 
per, glancing stealthily around the room, as if fearful that the grave 



126 THE DAHLGREEN GUN. 

would give up its dead. I afterward discovered that the manner 
was not peculiar to him, but to all Paraguayans in alluding to the 
Dictator. His name is rarely pronounced. In life he was El Su- 
premo ; since his death, they allude to him and to his deeds as 
those of El Befunto. 

The United States government sent out by the Water Witch 
one of my friend Dahlgreen's " twelve-pound howitzers," to be pre- 
sented to the President of Paraguay. A day was appointed for 
its delivery, and the second son of the President, Don Benancia, a 
major in the army, was deputed to receive it. Many officials and 
quite a concourse of people assembled at the point chosen for its 
reception. Mounted on its field-carriage, and manned with a good 
crew from the Water Witch, it was loaded with its "fixed ammuni- 
tion" in double-quick time, pointed across the river to the Chaco, 
and fired in rapid succession, keeping two shrapnells at the same 
time rolling on the water, while the contents and fragments of those 
that preceded them and exploded had demonstrated the deadly ef- 
fect of this modern missile of war. The assembled crowd looked 
on in wonder. The firing over, the men dashed off with the gun 
at full speed, thus exhibiting its facility of locomotion as well as 
rapidity of discharge. Major Lopez expressed himself delighted, 
and declared that, with a battery of half a dozen such pieces, he 
could defend the approach to Asuncion against vast odds. 

I quote from my journal : 

" October 17 th. Arrived from Buenos Ay res a steamer called the 
' Fanny,' sailing under Monte videan colors, having on board Mr. 
E. A. Hopkins, United States Consul for Asuncion. He is also 
agent for 'the American Company,' several members of which are 
on board, having come to Paraguay with the view of establishing 
themselves for commercial purposes, and, judging from the re- 
sources of this country, they should meet with great success." On 
the day appointed for Mr. Hopkins to present his credentials to the 
President he was accompanied by myself and many of the officers 
of the Water Witch. 

All was ready to proceed up the river, but I was requested to 
remain a few days and witness the great fete of Asuncion, the an- 
niversary of his Excellency's birth-day, the 4th of November, on 
which occasion there is a public reception. But one class of func- 
tionaries or visitors is received at a time ; the clergy had preced- 
ed us. As they retired we entered, and found " President Lopez," 
as usual, at the end of the long room I have described, seated be- 



THE PRESIDENT'S FETE. 127 

fore the circular table, dressed in a uniform of buff and gold ; 
wearing in place of the usual round beaver a cocked hat with gold 
lace and ostrich feathers. After offering him our congratulations, 
we retired to make room for others, and were conducted into an 
adjoining apartment to partake of refreshments, provided in great 
profusion, and consisting of excellent confectionery, cakes, Cham- 
pagne, English ale, coffee. "We were treated with much kind at- 
tention by the different officials, and the occasion seemed to be one 
of enjoyment to all classes. 

The day concluded with a ball given by the Chief Justice, at 
which were present not only all the beauty and fashion of Asun- 
cion, but the President and his family. Seats were especially pre- 
pared for them at one end of the room ; that for his Excellency was 
on a carpeted platform elevated about one foot above the floor. 
Opposite were rows of chairs for the matrons, who seemed to have 
attended for the sole purpose, and to rind full occupation in watch- 
ing their fair daughters ; for the Spanish American girls, like those 
of the European continent, are never seen, even by their lovers, 
out of the presence of mamma, or some matron to whom their care 
is delegated. Madam Lopez and her daughters were pleasing and 
ladylike ; the latter, like all women of the country, extravagantly 
fond of dancing, but the ill health of the younger on this occasion 
deprived her of this enjoyment; At an early hour of the evening 
the music suddenly ceased, and there was perfect silence. A tall 
personage — we were told that he was an LL.D.— moved to the 
centre of the room, made a profound bow, and then, with vigorous 
gesticulation and imposing solemnity of mien, delivered an address 
highly flattering to the chief magistrate of Paraguay, who received 
it with calm, unmoved countenance, and at its conclusion retired. 
The company, all standing, listened to this rather flowery effusion 
with gravity and respect ; but as the door closed upon his Excel- 
lency, dancing recommenced, and was kept up until the dawn of 
day. 



128 DEPARTURE FROM ASUNCION. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Departure from Asuncion. — The President's Quinta. — Salinas. — A Hill. — The Con- 
fuso. — The Salado. — Estancia of Lopez. — Variety of Woods and Fruits. — Que- 
bracho. — Capiepomo. — Guazu. — Cattle. — Hospitality. — -River Scenery. — An 
Accident to Engine. — Piquete Ytati. — Wood for Steamers. — Plants and Shrubs. 
— River Jejui. — San Pedro. — Another Accident to Engine. — Guaycuru Rembiu. 
— Government Estancia. — The Pacu Fish. — River Changes. — The Ypane. — Ar- 
rival at Concepcion. 

I quote from my journal : 

" November 7th, 1853. We left Asuncion this morning at half 
past five o'clock, upward bound. The reply of the President of 
Paraguay to my letter requesting permission for the expedition to 
pass through the territory claimed by his government is all I could 
desire ; he attaches no limits to the extent of our explorations on 
the river. Have in view the President's quinta ; it extends for 
six miles along the river ; all is verdant and enameled with culti- 
vation. At the highest point of the rolling land, which rises in 
wave-like ridges from the river, is placed the dwelling, command- 
ing an extensive view, including the salinas, which at times present 
a busy scene ; for here, in small huts, the salt-gatherers establish 
themselves during the season of low water, and, by a rude and prim- 
itive process, manufacture an extensive supply for the Asuncion 
market : it is inferior to the imported article, but for cattle or ordi- 
nary purposes serves very well. Extensive saline districts exist in 
the Chaco ; the rivers that flow through that country are, with few 
exceptions, brackish, but this is the second instance in which we 
have met with this formation east of the Paraguay ; the first was 
below the capital, near Mount Lambare. The earth, when first turn- 
ed up, exhibits no evidence of the presence of salt, but after being 
for some time exposed to the sun, it becomes covered with a crust, 
looking like a white frost. The people collect this efflorescence 
carefully, but it is from the water, through which the earth is re- 
peatedly washed to extract all saliferous particles, that the princi- 
pal supply is obtained. In a country rich in pasture-lands, and so 
far from the ocean, this provision of Providence is only one among 
the multiplied evidences of bounty to these fair regions of creation." 

On the President's lands is the port Lasararaxas — the family 
name of Madame Lopez — and in operation near it are several ex- 



THE CONFUSO.— PINON. 129 

tensive brick-kilns. Twelve miles above Asuncion there is, on the 
Chaco bank, an isolated conical hill of mica schist rising to the 
height of one hundred feet, the first elevation on that side exceed- 
ing twenty feet since leaving " Santa Fe, seven hundred and twenty 
miles below. It furnishes a quarry of building-stone from which 
great blocks are rolled down by a gradual descent to the water's 
edge. 

Immediately above this quarry, the River Confuso, a narrow, 
tortuous stream, taking its rise no one knows where, discharges 
itself into the Paraguay. At a subsequent period Lieutenant Mur- 
daugh ascended it for twenty-four miles, encountered some difficul- 
ties in the navigation, and made slow progress, though in a steam- 
er of but two feet draught. From his account of it we must con- 
clude that it has its source in the eastern Cordilleras of Bolivia. It 
has been supposed to be a branch of the Pilcomayo, and is marked 
on some maps as such, but the difference in the character of their 
waters must set at rest this idea. That of the Pilcomayo is brack- 
ish only when the river is unusually low and sluggish, while that 
of the Confuso is decidedly bitter and saline. The Confuso, like 
many other rivers of the Chaco, is probably pure at its source, and 
becomes impregnated from flowing through saliferous districts. 
Considered as a branch of the Pilcomayo, the distance through 
which it would course before reaching the Paraguay is not suffi- 
cient to produce so great a change in its waters. If a distinct river, 
rising, as I believe, in the high lands of Bolivia, it is but a new link 
and another evidence of the beautiful river system which charac- 
terizes the basin of La Plata. 

Four miles above the quarry, on the Chaco side, a conical rock, 
called the "Pinon," rises about twenty feet above the water, in the 
middle of the river. It is surmounted by a block of red sandstone 
of about six feet diameter at the top, so symmetrical and so nicely 
adjusted that one might suppose it to have been designedly placed 
there by some skillful hand. Directly opposite, a small stream, 
the Salado, which flows from the Lake Ypacaray, discharges its 
waters into the Paraguay. The country around the lake and bor- 
dering this little river is populous and fertile ; during a season of 
extreme drought the Salado is slightly brackish, as its name indi- 
cates. 

At Quatros'Bocas — "Four mouths," four miles above the rock 
Pinon, the character of the banks on either side is the same, but 
some distance inland the scenery changes. There is in view a 



130 WOODS OF PAEAGUAY. 

sierra, or beautiful range of high land, which, is known to extend 
easterly from the Paraguay nearly to the Parana. 

Near the Gruardia Arigutigua, twenty miles from Asuncion, the 
"Pirebeby" flows into the Paraguay, and forms the southern bound- 
ary of an estate belonging to President Lopez, which has its north- 
ern hmit on the Eiver Paraguaymi. This estancia extends four- 
teen unbroken miles on the Paraguay, is particularly fertile, and 
well stocked with horned cattle and sheep ; mandioca and corn 
are cultivated upon it to a limited extent, as provision for the cap- 
itaz and peons — manager and laborers. Two miles above Pirebe- 
by, and about the same distance inland, is the little town of "Am- 
buscada," at the foot of the sierra. 

In latitude 24° 54/ 32" south, longitude 57° 21/ 15," forty miles 
from Asuncion, we reached the first point at which the wood-cut- 
ters agreed to furnish us with fuel for the steamer. I found them 
punctual to the time, and the wood was all corded, and conven- 
iently placed for being received on board. The bunkers were half 
full of coal, but we were able to take in thirty -nine cords. In this 
lot were some ten or a^ dozen varieties : the Palo bianco, Curupi- 
na, Curupay, Arahan, ^jrapipe, Espina de Corona, Capita, Nanga- 
pare, and many others of fine texture are found throughout this 
country, such as the Alg^rroba, Espinilla, and Quebracho, or "axe- 
breaker," as its name indicates. All of these trees furnish good 
fuel for steamers, but in ship-building or for ornamental purposes 
they would be invaluable. 

Some of them are giants even in the La Plata forests ; others 
present great floral beauty ; some are valued for their fruits, oth- 
ers for their barks; indeed, familiar as I am with the woodlands 
of the northern section of this hemisphere, as we advanced in the 
ascent of the river, I was filled with wonder at the surpassing wealth 
of the forest regions of the south. An accomplished arborist would 
find in Paraguay an unlimited field of interest and study. The 
fruits of the Arahan and Nangapare are both pleasant and nutri- 
tious. The Algorroba, one of the mimosas, produces a fruit simi- 
lar in taste (though smaller) to our honey-pod. It contains a quan- 
tity of saccharine matter, and is carefully gathered by the Indians, 
who dry, pound, and preserve it in skins ; they also make from it 
a fermented liquor of which they are very fond, but to me it was 
unpalatable. This tree flourishes in the Argentine Confederation, 
where its fruit, considered very precious food for cattle, is gather- 
ed, and generally put aside for favorite horses. These animals 



THE PRESIDENT'S ESTANCIAS. 131 

when fed upon it, if not severely exercised, become too fat for ac- 
tive service. 

The width of the river at this point, as ascertained by the mi- 
crometer, is one thousand and seventy-six yards. Its general 
width from Asuncion to this place is from a half to one mile ; 
least depth twenty feet, greatest seventy-two. The banks have 
an elevation of fifteen feet at the present state of the water, which 
is four feet below the highest rise. They are well timbered ; the 
woodland extends some distance back, with intervening sections of 
palm and grass. Between the towns few houses are to be seen ex- 
cept the guardias, near which are always extensive estancias. 

Fourteen miles farther (latitude 24° 48' 27") we passed another 
estancia of President Lopez, called Capiepomo Gruazu. The dwell- 
ing is in the usual style of the better class of country houses in 
Paraguay, of one story, very capacious, and built round a court ; 
it stands about half a mile from the river, in the midst of a palm 
plain, skirted with magnificent and lofty trees. The corrals upon 
these estates are an invariable evidence of the wealth of the estan- 
ciaro, and here they were large and numerous. 

We anchored as the sun was sinking below the horizon in a sea 
of gorgeous tinges ; and as night approached, with little or no inter- 
val of twilight, flocks of sheep, by thousands, might be seen gath- 
ering under the shelter of the corrals. The number of horned cat- 
tle on some of these estancias is enormous, and, with a free com- 
munication to the Atlantic, we can understand how great a revenue 
they would afford. Found at our anchorage forty-eight feet of 
water, the width of the river being half a mile, the least depth 
twenty -four feet ; current at anchorage two and a half miles per 
hour. Engaged a bullock and a quantity of fresh milk for an 
early hour the next morning. The cows are milked but once a 
day — in the morning always. The capitaz would receive no pay 
for either, and, on inquiring, found that this was in accordance with 
the orders of the President. This is only one of what I consider a 
series of national civilities, offered with a delicacy which reflects 
high honor upon his excellency. Indeed, government hospitality 
represents a characteristic of the Paraguayans. A more generous, 
single-hearted people it is impossible to find, and they have a native 
tact which rarely offends even the conventional ideas of those who 
have associated more with the outer world. 

Much as I was obliged afterward to disapprove and deprecate 
the course of President Lopez toward the Americans who had set- 



132 LOPEZ'S HOSPITALITY. 

tied in Asuncion, and in the unprovoked attack upon the "Water 
Witch while ascending the Parana, the reception of the expedition 
in his waters, and his entire course toward us, until his outbreak 
with the consul, was characterized throughout by generous hos- 
pitality. 

At an early hour our bullock was dragged by the lasso from 
the corral to the river bank, and in an incredibly short time served 
up onboard ship. We soon passed the grass-lands of Capiepomo, 
where the banks are low, and covered with forests of lofty trees ; 
parasites and epiphytes, with brilliant and fragrant bloom, entwine 
themselves around the huge trunks, here presenting a floral col- 
umn, there running over branches, and from tree to tree, forming 
hanging gardens. To complete the enchantment, birds of gay 
plumage flit about, enlivening the woods with their merry songs. 

We passed another estancia near the Ghiardia Caraguatay. The 
left bank again rises to the height of fifteen feet, and is well wood- 
ed; beyond, a boundless plain of palms aud grass.. Saw many 
fowl, among which were the Pa to real — " Koyal Duck," and Bigua 
bay — " Snake-head." The starboard crank-strap broke, and we an- 
chored to repair damages. In an hour we were under way, and 
passed the mouth of the Eiver Quarepoti, seventy-two miles from 
Asuncion. On this stream, three miles from the Paraguay, is the 
town of Eosario, but hid from our view by the woods. Passing an 
estancia of General Lopez, son of the President, and commander-in- 
chief of the army, we anchored off the Piquete Ytati, our second 
depot of wood, one hundred and two miles from Asuncion. 

The President's orders were carried out as to the quantity and 
size of this wood, and there was a punctuality in its supply which, 
I feel assured, without his instructions, neither love nor money 
could have procured. I found here fifty-two cords well cut and 
put up ; a familiar sight to us, but a novel one to Paraguayans. 
Our experience demonstrates fully not only the possibility of ob- 
taining abundance of wood in these waters for steamers, but the 
fact of its superiority to all used similarly in our own country. 
In running from 5 to 10 o'clock A.M. — five hours — and from 1 
to 5f P.M. — in all, nine hours forty -five minutes — we consumed 
five and a quarter cords of wood, a little more than half a cord per 
hour, keeping up twenty pounds of steam, making from eighteen 
to twenty revolutions, and giving a speed of six miles over the 
bottom, against a current of from two to two and a half miles per 
hour. An accurate account of the consumption and careful meas- 



FRUITS AND PLANTS. 133 

urement of the wood were kept and made by the senior engineer, 
R. C. Potts, with the view of testing its qualit y. The result proved 
what I have before affirmed, that accord of this wood was fully 
equal to a ton of the best anthracite coal. 

The width of the river at our anchorage by micrometer was six 
hundred and nineteen yards ; the general width from our last an- 
chorage from a third to a quarter of a mile ; least depth of water 
seventeen feet. 

Employed the morning while wooding in a stroll through the 
forest skirting the river, from which our supply of fuel had been 
cut, in search of botanic specimens. Gathered a few, among which 
was the Guayava blanca, a shrub bearing a beautiful white flower 
very like the orange blossom ; its fruit is delicious, and its twigs 
were covered with nodules of white wax, deposited by a species of 
ant in such quantities that the people of the country collect it and 
mould it into candles. "We saw also the lofty Yarumu, or Hiva- 
puru, which bears a violet-colored fruit about the size of a plum, 
and much liked by the natives ; we thought it indifferent. It is 
directly attached to the trunk and branches, without a peduncle. 
Saw numberless epiphytes ; they are found in every part of La 
Plata, and generally near a dead tree, around which they entwine 
themselves, making what would be otherwise an unsightly skele- 
ton the most beautiful object of the forest. This is a favorite plant 
in all city gardens, requiring no care, as it finds its nutriment in 
the air. Some are selected for their brilliant flowers, others for 
their fragrance, which exceeds in delicacy that of most flora. 

Having wooded, pushed on, and about two and a half miles 
above the Piquete Ytati, passed the mouth of the Jejui, a small 
river which flows from the left bank. It rises in the Cordilleras of 
Paraguay, courses through apart of the Yerbales, and offers an easy 
communication for the conveyance of this product to San Pedro. 
After the construction of the small steamer, it was used by Lieu- 
tenant Ammen in the examination of this stream, but, as he ascend- 
ed at the season of low water, he found it impracticable to proceed 
farther than a few miles beyond the port of San Pedro, latitude 
24° 5' 26", longitude 57° 13 / 7". The village of San Pedro is two 
miles north of the port. The note-book of Lieutenant Ammen in 
reference to it says : 

" We had a succession of sand-bars up to this port, on an aver- 
age one to every four hundred yards. A steamer navigating the 
river even to San Pedro should. not have a length greater than 



134 AN ACCIDENT. 

eighty feet, should be flat floored, and be capable of making 
eight statute miles, the average current being equal to three and 
a half. Arrived at the port of San Pedro April 1 6th, 1854 ; visited 
the commandante, who received me with every possible kindness, 
and supplied me with horses to go to the villa of San Pedro, two 
marine miles due north. We were met by Don Louis Cara, the 
priest, the captain of the port, and ten or twelve others. They 
expressed a desire to visit the vessel. After an examination into 
and explanation of every thing, we accompanied these personages 
to the villa, and stopped at the house of Don Louis Cara. The day 
following, the vessel was overrun with visitors. The commandante 
gave us a grand ball that night, at which all the ladies wore shoes. 
The authorities and grandees were overwhelming in their polite- 
ness. On the day after the ball, with a party consisting of the' 
officials and the ladies on board, we proceeded on, taking the canoe 
in tow for their return. They went up with us a mile, and left, 
highly gratified that they had seen a steamer function." 

My own journal says, 

" November 10th. Observed on the bank a wooden cross; was 
informed by the pilot that it was the grave of a poor woman who 
had died there suddenly. Surely we, in our boasted civilization, 
might borrow from the primitive customs of this country; no 
grave, however humble the former position of its occupant, is here 
unmarked by this symbol of Christianity. For the second time 
since leaving Asuncion the engine is 'hors de combat' by the 
breaking of another crank strap. While this damage was repair- 
ing we went on shore, and making our way up the bank (which 
was here about fifteen feet above the water), and through an al- 
most impenetrable fringe and network of vegetation, we spent the 
few remaining hours of daylight in searching for specimens. Col- 
lected a few plants, among which was the Guaycura rembiu, a creep- 
er, bearing a pretty white, waxlite flower ; its fruit is highly es- 
teemed by the Indians, who collect it when green, and roast it. 
When ripe it bursts its shell, and exposes beautiful and delicate 
silklike fibres, to each of which is a seed. 

" November 11th. Under way at eight o'clock this morning, hav- 
ing made a strap with the best iron on board, one of the awning 
stanchions. The government owns extensive estancias and im- 
mense herds, which furnish the army with beef. For some hours 
this morning we were steaming past one of these estancias, well 
stocked with the finest cattle : it is known as Estancia Potreropora. 



EIVER CHANGES. 135 

Found here a large quantity of wood conveniently corded. Wher- 
ever the pampa is unbroken by a mountain spur, or the banks pre- 
sent a sectional view of their formation, they show a stratum of 
white clay, with a surface-soil of rich black earth from two to four 
feet in depth. 

" Anchored near the Piquete Caruyparti, and off the estancia of 
Don Francisco Antonio Grarcia, near which is the port Piedrenal. 
The following morning detained by a rain, which here not only 
pours, but falls in sheets. Measured the river by micrometer, 
and found it to be one thousand one hundred and seventy yards 
wide. Caught some fish, the pacu, the best in these waters. In 
six hours from Puerto Piedrenal we arrived at the town of Con- 
ception. In the depth of river and character of its banks up to 
this place found no material change save at the island Toro, about 
five miles from Puerto Piedrenal, where there are two islands, the 
one near the Chaco side formed since 1842. The channel has shift- 
ed more to the east, and has fifteen feet water, the least depth as 
yet found between Asuncion and Concepcion. 

" Many seals have been seen during the last two days. There 
is one feature in the character of these rivers worthy of note — the 
apparent inclination of the waters to encroach upon the east bank ; 
a question suggests itself, Has the revolution of the earth any agen- 
cy in this change ? The newly -formed islands are uniformly on 
the Chaco side ; so far, the channel inclines undeviatingly to the 
east. If influenced by the earth's revolution,, the effect should be 
as it here appears. Eising in the equatorial regions, and coursing 
south through a vast extent of pampa, this river, in conjunction 
with the Parana, presents the fairest opportunity of arriving at a 
solution of this question. Ten miles below Concepcion we passed 
through a narrow arm of the river on the east, at this time the 
main channel ; it has a depth of twenty -two feet, and a width of 
from sixty to seventy yards. The water is fast deserting the old 
bed of the river,' which, though half a mile wide, has scarcely depth 
enough for a boat. We passed the mouth of the Ypane, about five 
miles below Concepcion ; though it rises in the distant sierras of 
Paraguay, it is only navigable for boats. Directly opposite its 
mouth is the Eiacho Lingua Passo, formed by an island of the same 
name. This riacho was in 1842 the main channel, which is now 
east of it — another evidence of the movement of the river in that 
direction. 

"As we approach Concepcion the formation of the bed of the 



136 CONCEPCION. 

river changes, and the channel is contracted by rocks on either side. 
There is, however, neither danger nor difficulty in the navigation, 
for we found never less than twenty feet water. 

"Anchored in front of the town, and by measurement ascer- 
tained the river to be at its narrowest point three hundred and 
forty-four yards ; velocity of current two and a half miles per 
hour ; temperature of air at meridian 81°, of water 84°. Found 
here two small craft taking in yerba for Asuncion." 



CHAPTER IX. 

Conception. — Yerba. — Government Monopolies and Restrictions placed upon Trade. 
— Favorable Reception. — Guembe and Guembetaya. — The Water Witch. — A Ball 
at the Commandante's House. — A Quandary. — Danced down. — Senor Tachiera. 
— Costumes. — Wood for Steamer. — Rio Saladillo. — Salinas. — Indians. — The 
Caciques. — A Shaking of Hands and a Smoke. — Palm Forest. — Salvador. — Heat. 
— State of the Country. — The Abatiguaniba. — Caraguatay Guazu. — Manufactures 
of its Thread. — Thorns converted into Needles. — The Datil. — Reptile Hunting. 
— Supplies. — Value of Hide. — Piquete Arracife. — Heat. — Paso Melo. — Mount- 
ed Indians from the Chaco. — Piquete Judiarte. — Guardia Apatuya. — Beautiful 
Scenery. — The Morada and Ytapucu Guazu. — The Children of the Gran Chaco. 
— Equestrian and Pedestrian. — Size, Strength, and Longevity. — An Octogenarian 
in the Flower of his Age. — Nabidigua. — TheMbayas. — Their Slaves. — The Gua- 
rani. — Spiritual Notions of the Aborigines. — No Word for God or Divinity. — Ahar- 
aigichi. — Jupa. — Inferior Creatures or not? 

Concepcion, in latitude 23° 23' 56", longitude 57° 30' 39", con- 
tains about two thousand inhabitants, and stands on a plain, which, 
at the ordinary height of the river, is twenty feet above its level. 
It was at one period a nourishing town, and should now be an im- 
portant port for the export of yerba and caoutchouc, but the policy 
of the Paraguayan government, in monopolizing the trade in all 
native products of value, tends to check any spirit of enterprise 
which might tempt individuals or companies to build up a com- 
merce in these articles. All trade is centralized at Asuncion. 
The government is the principal merchant, in virtue of its own 
decree, and the prices paid by this factor are not sufficiently re- 
munerative to induce laborers to enter the field, fruitful as it is. 
There are Yerbales, or "Yerba Districts/' in the interior, some sixty 
or seventy miles from Concepcion, to which place their product is 
transported in ox- wagons. 

In the gathering and preparation of this yerba for market, there 
are two modes of procedure; either to instruct the commandante 



YEEBA. 



137 




CUEING YEEBA. 



of the district to enter the yerbales with the force at his command, 
or to grant permission to certain contractors to do so. In the first 
case, the laborers are paid in goods from the pnblic stores at the 
rate of twenty -five cents the arroba ; in the latter, the agent or 
contractor delivers at Asuncion two thirds of the whole quantity, 
packed in hide sacks, containing eight arrobas each, called tercias ; 
he bearing all the expenses of labor, transportation, and cost of 
the hides for the tercias. This yields a handsome income to his 
Excellency. The export amounts annually to not less than ninety 
thousand arrobas, and he sells it at about four dollars the arroba : 
he therefore receives about three hundred and sixty thousand dol- 
lars from this one article, and without the expenditure of a dollar ; 
to which should be added a revenue from hides, timber, horse- 
hair, etc., amounting also to a large sum.* 

There is no restriction on the home consumption, but the mer- 
chant who wishes to export this " tea" must purchase from the 
state. The rulers of this fine country have many valuable les- 
sons to acquire in political and financial science. By opening 

* The process of preparing the yerba will be found fully detailed in Lieut. Powell's 
"Journal of a Tour through the Yerbales of Paraguay." See Appendix E. 



138 NATIONAL CHARACTERISTICS. 

their waters to foreign flags, and encouraging home industry, 
even in the collection of indigenous products, and without the 
application of agriculture, the revenue from import and export 
duties would far exceed that of any monopoly now usurped. 
Under the present system, there is a stagnation of all trade at 
this place, and the people are poor, and evidently inert, but, like 
all Paraguayans, hospitable. We can only hope that the reac- 
tionary spirit which has crept into the Argentine Confederation, 
and the enlightened ambition of General Urquiza to elevate his 
country, politically and socially, by a liberal constitution, educa- 
tion of its youth, and direct foreign trade, will prove contagious, 
and work their course toward the northern republic of La Plata. 

Soon after anchoring I called at the commandante's, where I 
met the principal personages of the place, who were emphatic in 
their offers of service, seeming to consider it a point of national 
honor to give us a distinguished reception. Isolated as the Para- 
guayans have been, they are animated, I observed, by a strong 
nationality, intense love of country, though not awakened to any 
application of its surpassing natural wealth to the requirements 
of trade. To express appreciation of Paraguay, we discovered, 
was a sure avenue to the hearts of these people ; and this tribute 
we could offer them in all truth and sincerity. Horses were ten- 
dered us, with the assurance that they would continue at our dis- 
posal while we remained at Concepcion ; and, as sailors rarely de- 
cline such an opportunity of exercise, we availed ourselves of the 
tempting favor, and visited the adjacent country, which is flat, 
sandy, and uninteresting. 

We passed an indifferent house here and there, surrounded 
with little and poor cultivation, but collected a few plants, among 
which was the parasite guembepi or guembe. I pulled one from 
the limb of a quebracho, thirty feet fromTthe ground, to which 
its tendrils had descended, and taken root in the earth. This is 
one of the most useful plants in Paraguay, for from its fibre is 
manufactured an admirable rope, of which all the hawsers and 
tow-lines used by vessels in the river-trade are made ; indeed, be- 
fore the Ee volution, it was extensively used in the navy of Spain. 
The guembe and the guembetaya are so similar in appearance 
that they are often confounded, but they have very different 
characteristics, as I ascertained by observation, which was con- 
firmed by information derived from an intelligent Paraguayan, 
who had given some attention to the natural products of his coun- 



THE GUEMBE AND THE GUEMBETAYA. 139 

try, and who had opportunities of observing these plants at all 
seasons. The guernbe is valuable for its bark only, the guembe- 
taya for its fruit. The latter takes root in the earth, generally 
near some large tree, around which it will entwine, and climb to 
the utmost branches with such a grasp as not unfrequently to 
destroy it. It bears a beautiful trumpet-shaped flower of a deli- 
cate straw-color, which is succeeded by a fruit highly prized by 
the Indians. It is similar in appearance and taste to Indian corn, 
and is prepared and used by the natives in the same manner for 
bread. I had an opportunity of seeing both these plants growing, 
and have been thus particular in drawing the distinction between 
them, because Azara, generally an excellent authority, so far as 
he touches upon the botany of La Plata, speaks only of the guern- 
be, and assigns to it the characteristics of both plants. 

While off Concepcion, the Water Witch was an object of great 
curiosity and interest, not only to the inhabitants of the town, but 
to those of the surrounding country ; for none except a few who 
had visited Ascension when a steamer — a rare sight even there — 
happened to be in port had ever before seen one. People from a 
long distance in the interior flocked to see the wonderful bark. 
Men, women, and children crowded on board, and would sit for 
hours under the awning of the deck, seemingly astonished and 
delighted at all they saw, and eagerly questioning the old Gua- 
rani pilot as to the meaning of many things to them so incompre- 
hensible. 

We were invited on the first evening of our arrival to a ball at 
the commandante's, where were assembled all the beauty and dis- 
tinction of the place. The floor of the ball-room was of tile, the 
lights tallow ; indeed, there was little to meet a cosmopolitan 
standard of elegance, but the good-breeding and native tact of 
the people made it an occasion of enjoyment to us all. There is 
no village or region of the earth so small or remote as not to have 
its "upper ten." The knowledge of this fact placed me in a di- 
lemma. Being the "Senor Commandante," I was expected to 
select, as a partner for the waltz, the most distinguished lady 
present. When all looked alike, it was impossible to discrimi- 
nate: a mistake would have been a national insult. In this 
quandary, I placed myself in the hands of the commandante, who 
dashed off to a formidable row of females at the upper end of the 
room, from whence he brought forth a partner, assuring me she 
danced divinely. This I could not doubt, for what woman in 



140 A BALL AT CONCEPCION. 

Spanish. America can't waltz, and waltz well ? but was she one 
of a class so often found in this country, that " never tires ?" 

The music began ; off we started, followed by the officers of 
the Water Witch, and all the belles and beaux of the town. 
Round and round, whirl and whirl — "Bravo, Senor Comman- 
dante I" — the invariable exclamation of our host as we passed — 
began to sound faintly in my ear; on, on we flew; I no longer sup- 
ported the lady ; she carried me round. Was I about to realize 
the theory of perpetual motion ? Sights and sounds were grow- 
ing dim and confused, when, perhaps aroused by the noisy 
"bravo" of the commandante, I gathered my failing strength, 
broke away from the fair lady, and beat a retreat from the room. 
I was fairly danced down. 

When I returned after a few moments' absence, the senorita had 
found another partner, and was whirling again, looking as fresh 
and smiling as if just beginning the dance. The refreshments 
consisted of cakes, red wine, cana, and, above all, the important 
and refreshing mate. 

The following evening was passed in a similar manner at the 
house of " Senor Tachiera," a Brazilian. Senor Tachiera had been 
a detenu of Francia, and spoke feelingly of his efforts, and the con- 
suming desire, during that detention, to return to Brazil. At last 
he resigned himself to his fate, married a Paraguayan, and had a 
large family around him. "Now," said he, "I have taken deep 
root in the soil, and shall never see Brazil again." Indeed, the 
laws oblige him, even now, to take root in the soil, or " abandon his 
wife ;" for no woman can leave the country without permission 
of the President, a favor not easily obtained. He gave me a small 
box of the resin of the "Palo Santo" for the President of the 
United States, neatly put up and accompanied by a note, which 
I forwarded by the first opportunity to the Navy Department. 
This kind-hearted Brazilian and his family were indefatigable 
in their efforts to amuse us: the daughter danced and smoked 
with a vivacity that were charming ; for the usages of the coun- 
try make smoking admissible to all, men, women, and children ; 
and dancing is the amusement of Spanish America. 

These simple hospitalities are recalled as agreeable social remi- 
niscences of life in that interior country, and were, at the time, a 
pleasant relief from the labors of the expedition. 

We were astonished to find the women of these remote regions 
so handsomely and appropriately dressed; and, in contradiction 



FIREWOOD AND TIMBER. 141 

to all previous reports, their pretty feet were covered with shoes 
and stockings. In fact, there is no fever so contagious as fashion ; 
and as there was a rumor that the President's daughters drew upon 
French art, can it be doubted that the fair ladies of Concepcion 
had received an inspiration from those importations ? Occasion- 
ally in these parts, so distant from Asuncion, the centre of Para- 
guayan distinction, we see a costume of Francia's time, the short 
jacket and vest scarce covering the shoulder-blade, and the point- 
ed hat from fourteen to sixteen inches high ; but an individual 
who should appear at the capital in such a costume would incur 
the indignation of the President and the openly-expressed ridicule 
of all. 

Concepcion was one of the points at which I expected wood, 
and I found sixty cords of the best quality well cut and corded. 
In this lot no less than twelve persons were interested, but they 
permitted us to receive it at our own measurement. Four dollars 
per cord was the price demanded. In a land of endless forests, 
this was perhaps too much; but it was cheap fuel when it is 
considered that with it the steamer was run at the rate of two 
dollars the hour. It was a new business to these people, and I 
could afterward have contracted for any quantity at the rate of 
from two and a half to three dollars the cord. When a trade 
shall spring up with Brazil and Bolivia via the Paraguay, the cut- 
ting and sale of wood at this point will of itself give profitable 
employment to hundreds of the inhabitants of this town. 

" On the 15th," says my journal, " we were again under way. 
Crowds of people assembled on the banks to see the Water Witch 
move under steam. Soon passed a salina — salt-field. The water 
is not affected; to the taste it is pure. Arroyo la Patria is a wide 
riacho ten miles above Concepcion, which extends about twelve 
miles into the Chaco. On its banks are noble trees of la pacho 
and quebracho, considered the hardest and most durable of all the 
arboreal treasures of Paraguay. They would be invaluable for 
ship-building, and small quantities are cut for this purpose annu- 
ally for the government, and transported to Asuncion. The banks 
of the Paraguay are here on both sides low and marshy, but some 
distance inland well wooded. Near the mouth of the Eio Saladil- 
lo is a rock in mid-channel ; on either side deep water. This is an 
unimportant stream, rising in the interior of Paraguay. At the 
season of low water it is so strongly impregnated with salt that it 
can not be drunk. The channel of the Paraguay a little above 



142 INDIANS OF THE CHACO. 

here is diverted from what would seem to be the main bed of the 
river by rocky obstructions, and has taken a course west of the 
island Uriate, where it is deep, but narrow. Less than a mile 
above the island Zapepa, and about twenty from Concepcion, are 
salinas, and near them many huts of salt-gatherers. I am partic- 
ular in noting these instances of salinas and salados to the east, 
because most writers assert that they exist only west of the Para-' 
guay and Parana. Thirty miles from Concepcion passed the mouth 
of the Arquidaban, which rises in the Cordillera Maricayu, and 
empties into a riacho of the same name." 

Four miles above, for the first time, we saw a number of In- 
dians on the Chaco side. Only a few presented themselves im- 
mediately on the bank, but we observed a large body half con- 
cealed — they imagined wholly so — by the long grass and palm. 
Accompanied by some of the officers and men, all armed, to show 
that we were prepared to be either friends or enemies, I went on 
shore. The savages had placed their bows and arrows at a dis- 
tance, and as we landed one of them pointed to their cacique. 
Our Gruarani pilot called their attention to ' our cacique,' when a 
great shaking of hands took place, the Indians uttering deep gut- 
tural sounds. I gave the cacique a lighted cigar, of which he took 
a whiff, and passed it to his companions. Soon the whole party, 
men, women, and children, came rushing from their hiding-places, 
eager to shake hands with us. They were without paint or orna- 
ments- of any kind, and perfectly nude, except a small piece of cot- 
ton or woolen cloth, or skin of wild animals, around the loins. 
They proved to be a part of the famous Lengua tribe : the men 
were good-looking, well made, and above the ordinary stature; 
their eyes long, not unlike the Chinese, but larger ; the mouth 
wide. The women were disfigured by the hideous tattooing which 
is, according to Azara, their preparation for marriage. These In- 
dians have horses and sheep, cultivate a little corn and cotton, 
and their women spin with the distaff, and weave a coarse wool- 
en and cotton cloth. 

Hoping to satisfy the cacique that our intentions were pacific, 
and presuming that he would communicate this impression to 
other tribes with whom he might fall in, I invited him and some 
others to go on board the Water Witch. It must have been to 
them a wonderful sight, for not only no steamer, but no vessel ap- 
proaching the size of our craft had ever before passed over these 
waters ; but not a sound or movement betrayed either astonish- 



HIGH LANDS.— SALVADOR- 143 

ment, admiration, or fear on the part of the chief. Some of those 
who accompanied him had less command over themselves, and 
manifested a little uneasiness ; no persuasion could induce them 
to go below, after having been shown every thing on deck. We 
gave them a few trinkets, fish-hooks, cigars, with which they seem- 
ed pleased, offering us, in return, some balls of yarn spun by their 
women. The point in the Chaco at which we landed for a parley 
with these Indians was a verdant plain elevated some ten feet 
above the river, and studded inland with stately palms so far as 
the eye could reach. 

At the close of day we anchored fifty -two miles above Concep- 
cion, at a point where the Riacho ISTovia unites with the main river. 
Width one third of a mile; least depth since leaving Concepcion, 
fifteen feet ; greatest, sixty of line, and " no bottom." Temperature 
of the air at meridian, 92°; water, 86-J- . 

" November 16th. Under way at an early hour this morning, and 
had made but little progress, when we came to the most extensive 
palm-forest as yet seen. It reached nine unbroken miles along 
the Ghaco bank, and extended back to the very verge of the hori- 
zon ; the grass was green and vigorous. At the termination of this 
plain the banks rise to the height of fifteen feet, covered for several 
miles with lapacho and quebracho. This is the greatest elevation 
we have met with since leaving Concepcion ; the more remarka- 
ble for being on the west. Saw another party of mounted Indians 
approaching the river at fall speed, but they proved to be a part 
of the same tribe we had already seen, and wanted presents. 

" Before us the first rolling land — in rear of the town of Salvador 
— was seen since leaving Concepcion. The estancias and quintas 
of this range look well in the distance, and add much to the cheer- 
fulness and picturesque beauty of the country. The town stands 
half way up this ridge, which rises gradually from the water to 
the height of about one hundred feet, and forms a plateau extend- 
ing back about half a mile. The approach to it by the river is 
very pretty ; shore line crescent-shaped. Anchored in thirty feet 
water. 

" Salvador, in latitude 22° 48' 45" south, longitude 57° 54' 33" 
west, has about one thousand inhabitants, and is, by the course of 
the river, seventy miles from Concepcion, and the most northern 
town or settlement, except guardias, in Paraguay. Least depth 
of water to this place fifteen feet, and this at a season when the 
river is supposed to be eight feet above its lowest point and six 



144 TEMPERATURE.— CONDITION OF THE COUNTRY. 

below its highest. We are now five hundred and twenty miles 
from the mouth of the Paraguay, and have encountered no obsta- 
cles to a clear and easy navigation of its waters. An experienced 
boatman of our Western rivers could discover, by inspection only, 
the course of deep water. The temperature of the water, 86°, is a 
mean between the daily extremes of the atmosphere. Since leav- 
ing Concepcion the thermometer has ranged from 75° to 95°, the 
minimum being at 3 A.M., rising and falling at both points with 
the influence of north and south winds. The heat is always more 
or less tempered by breezes. In our gradual approach to the 
equator we have perhaps become somewhat acclimated ; for, spite 
of the fatigue of watching ten or twelve hours of the twenty-four 
on the hurricane deck, where we are brought in close proximity to 
the smoke-stack, with only an awning to protect us from the effects 
of a vertical sun, we have not found the heat insufferable. Our 
thermometer, as much removed as possible from the influence of 
artificial heat, was no index to the temperature of our working 
position, selected for the purpose of giving an uninterrupted view 
of the river and adjacent country." 

Soon after anchoring we visited the commandante. In the at- 
tentions paid to us here, and at every point on the river, the influ- 
ence of government orders is apparent. Our arrival was evident- 
ly anticipated by instructions from the capital, and both officials 
and villagers offered us every facility in the prosecution of our 
work. Apart from this influence, the inhabitants of Paraguay 
manifest an unmistakable disposition to exercise hospitality toward 
strangers. 

Though surrounded by great natural advantages, the people of 
Salvador are poor. Their condition is a silent but expressive re- 
proach to the policy of Paraguayan rulers ; for to supply their im- 
mediate and absolute wants, and to meet punctually the exactions 
of the government, are all they are taught or permitted. I ac- 
cepted the commandante's offer of horses, and, accompanied by 
several of the officers of the Water Witch, rode over the neigh- 
boring country. The estancias were small, and the stock neither 
in number nor quality very great ; the soil, though sandy, seemed 
to be highly adapted to the most varied products. Corn, rice, 
sugar-cane, tobacco, mandioca, water-melons, cabbages, pumpkins, 
and several varieties of beans were growing luxuriantly. The 
rice was the upland species, cultivated in rows, at an elevation of 
eighty feet above the water ; it required no irrigation, and prom- 



THE CARAGUATAY GUAZU. 145 

ised an abundant harvest. The indigenous products of this region 
are also valuable. The wild maize, the Abatiguaniba of the Grua- 
rani, is a bountiful provision of nature, for it is parched or pound- 
ed into meal by the natives, and much liked by them when made 
into bread. The grain is not unlike millet, with blades one third 
of the width of common Indian corn. 

In this vicinity the most useful species of the aloe tribe abounds, 
the Caraguatay guazu : from its filamentous tissues the people of 
the country make ropes, fishing-lines, etc. Careful experiments 
have proved it to be both stronger and more durable for cordage 
than hemp, while, at the same time, it may be manufactured into 
the finest fabrics. The Spaniards used it for caulking, and pre- 
ferred it to every other material ; and Don Josef de Bustamente y 
Gluerra, a friend and contemporary of Azara,* experimented with 
ropes of it and of hemp — the latter made at a Spanish arsenal — 
and his trial proved that of caraguatay to be the stronger. 

Under the direction of the Jesuits, the Indians spun and wove 
it into cloth, and, according to Dobrizhoffer, such beautiful stock- 
ings were made of its thread, that in France, both for strength and 
softness, they were preferred to silk ; but he also tells us that " no 
time or art can make these threads white, nor will they hold color." 
We have only to remember that this intelligent Jesuit wrote more 
than a century ago, and that now art and science, applied to man- 
ufactures, seem to make all things possible. The Styrian Father 
continues in his quaint style to dwell upon the uses of the different 
species of this- plant : 

" Their leaves supply the place of flax in making thread. The 
Indians look upon the various fruits of the caraguatay as food. 
From their leaves, when scraped with a knife, flows a sweet liquor, 
which is thickened on the fire, and condensed into sugar. This 
liquor of the caraguatay, mixed in water with the seeds of oranges 
or lemons, undergoes a vinous fermentation ; exposed to the sun, 
it turns to vinegar. By what method and in what cases wounds 
are healed by the juice of the caraguatay would be long to tell. A 
polypodium, preferable in the opinion of physicians to any Euro- 
pean one, grows on the caraguatay." 

In this vicinity is found the "datil," one of the numerous palms. 

* Azara: "Mon ami Don Josef de Bustamente y Guerra, fit fabriquer avec du 
caraguata un bout de corde de la grosseur du pouce ; et l'ayant compare avec un 
autre de la meme grosseur, fabrique dans nos arsenaux avec du chanvre, celui de 
caraguata se trouva plus fort." 

10 



146 EEPTILE HUNTING.— USES OF HIDES. 

Its fruit grows in clusters, looking like a colossal bunch of grapes ; 
the outer shell is thin, and envelops a sweet, yellowish, stringy 
substance, of which the natives are very fond, covering a nut 
about an inch in diameter, containing the kernel from which the 
oil is extracted either by pressure or boiling. The appearance 
and size of this nut are similar to that of the filbert, and in taste 
it is very like the cocoanut. 

Although little accustomed to trade, we found the people quite 
ready to dispose of any article for cash. I employed a boy to pro- 
cure reptiles, and for this purpose gave him two large specimen- 
jars half filled with cana, charging him to omit no species, how- 
ever common in the country. He soon returned with a quantity 
of diminutive toads, enough to have stocked every collection in 
the United States. I discontinued his services, but found that I 
had started a new branch of trade in Salvador, for a goodly por- 
tion of the population turned out reptile-hunting ; and had I not 
left the following day, I might unintentionally have worked one 
of the miracles of Saint Patrick for this neighborhood. 

In a climate where the thermometer ranges from 76° to 96° the 
lightest clothing is alone comfortable ; many altogether despise 
this essential of civilization; and half-grown boys and girls, whose 
limbs had never been girded, ran about the country, or, plunging 
into the river as if it were their natural element, swam around the 
Water "Witch, looking as innocent and unconscious as our first pa- 
rents before the fall. 

Having received wood and supplies of fresh provisions, consist- 
ing of molasses, beef, figs, chickens, eggs, corn, milk, mandioca, 
cabbages, onions, and pumpkins, we bade adieu to the people of 
the town, who came down to see us off — to wish us success and 
a speedy return. The molasses, made in the neighborhood, was 
of excellent quality, and we paid for it at the rate of twelve and a 
half cents a gallon. I purchased a quantity for the ship's compa- 
ny, which was brought on board in an ox-hide, having its four 
corners drawn together and fastened so that it could be swung 
upon a pole and carried by two men. It was poured into some 
empty casks in the "spirit-room," and the hide returned to the 
men who brought it. They expressed much astonishment at our 
generosity, and evidently considered it of more value than the mo- 
lasses. We had been too long in the country not to have discov- 
ered that, though abounding in wood and iron, hide was the favor- 
ite substitute for both, as well as for rope and a variety of other 



ASCENT OF THE RIVER.— PASO MALO. 147 

articles considered by us essentials in the ruder mechanical arts. 
If verba, the staple of the country, is to be transported thousands 
of miles, it is neither packed in barrels nor boxes, but in hide bags 
(tercias), sewed up with strips of the same material. 

There was a little craft at the landing, receiving on board hides 
and yerba, the only articles of trade from Salvador. The "yer- 
bales" are seventy miles from this place, but, owing to the monop- 
oly of their product by the government, the population in the vi- 
cinity of them has diminished, and the annual shipment decreased 
from six hundred thousand arrobas to fifty thousand. 

" Under way," says my journal. " Have advanced three and a 
half miles, and are passing a government estancia extending three 
leagues on the river, and containing a herd of six thousand head 
of horned cattle, some hogs and sheep ; the two first very supe- 
rior, the sheep indifferent. These government estancias are to be 
found in every part of Paraguay, but more particularly along the 
river and in the vicinity of guardias. Seven miles above Salva- 
dor, encountered a ledge of rocks which extends across two thirds 
the width of the river, forcing the channel on the Chaco side. 
There is no appearance of rock formation on either bank, both be- 
ing here low and marshy. This characteristic continues for five 
miles to Piquete Arr&cife, in latitude 22° 45' 3 3", and longitude 
57° 57' 31", distant from Asuncion two hundred and sixty-two 
miles. Except piquetes and guardias, there is not, beyond, a sin- (/ 
gle habitation on Paraguay territory, and this is the last place at 
which we have contracted for the delivery of wood. 

" The weather to-day, November 17th, has been intensely hot, 
thermometer ranging from 75° at three A.M. to 99° at three P.M. ; 
at midnight thermometer showed 86°, and at six A.M. 79°, the 
wind being north and northwest, the point whence come winds 
charged with the radiated heat of a vast pampa. The fires of the 
furnace having been extinguished while wooding at midday, the 
reading of the thermometer at three P.M. was uninfluenced by any 
current of artificial heat. Half a mile below Arracife is a ledge 
of rocks on either side of the channel, but navigation is neither 
impeded nor endangered by them. 

" One mile above is Paso Malo — "Bad Pass," so called from 
there being less water than at any point between Asuncion and 
Albuquerque ; and yet, even here, the least depth is twelve feet, 
and this we found at only two casts of the lead, equivalent to six 
feet when the river is at its lowest state. Both banks continue 



148 WARLIKE INDIANS. 

low, with extensive plains of palm and grass on the Chaco side. 
Advanced twelve miles ; the river turns east, and the Sierra Yta- 
pucumini, which is first seen in the distance at Piquete Tobas, six 
miles below, terminates on the left bank, in a bluff of limestone 
forty feet high, covered with a growth of valuable woods. This 
wooded limestone plateau continues for some miles on the east 
bank, while the opposite or Chaco side presents the same low 
plain of palms. The Sierra Ytapucumini is a continuation Of the 
distant high lands first seen in approaching Salvador. All the 
limestone used at Asuncion, and other places on the river, is taken 
from this neighborhood." 

Five miles above Arracife, while running close to the right 
bank, we saw a host of mounted Indians in the distance. They 
came dashing at a full gallop over the plain, looking like Cen- 
taurs, as they gracefully guided their horses through the windings 
of a dense palm forest, and undeviatingly directed their course to 
the river, without for an instant checking speed. On they came, 
men and women, in all their nudity ; no garments of any descrip- 
tion, except a piece of stuff about the loins ; neither paint nor or- 
naments, neither saddles nor bridles, but controlling their animals 
with a rude rein of hide passed over the lower jaw, and confined 
by a thong of the same material. 

Arrived on the bank, they made signs for a "talk." The 
steamer was stopped, and some of us landed. They proved to be 
a part of one of the most warlike tribes, the Angaite, and were 
noble-looking creatures, above the ordinary stature, and well 
formed : their teeth were white and regular ; hair luxuriant, and 
cut square upon the forehead. We gazed with interest upon 
these savages, for the warlike Chaco tribes have alone, amid the 
degradation and extirpation of the nations of their race upon the 
American continent, defied, for more than three centuries, the 
power of the white man. They still maintain their wild independ- 
ence, not in intricate and inaccessible passes of mountain ranges — 
not in great sterile plains, or among death-exhaling morasses, 
where the ingenuity or industry of the white man could obtain 
no remunerative return, but over a vast domain of two hundred 
thousand square miles, spreading out into noble forests of precious 
woods, lovely plains, accessible by navigable rivers, and irrigated 
by hundreds of their tributary streams ; a land not figuratively, 
but literally flowing with milk and honey* They have a salu- 

* The honey of the Chaco is celebrated in La Plata. 



COURSE OF THE EIVER. 151 

brious climate ; a rernedio, in their indigenous products, for every 
disease and wound ; amid a perfection of vegetal beauty, they 
live, attaining a longevity almost unknown to the white man, 
without the physical decay of his old age. 

After a talk, and presents of tobacco and beads, we left them, 
with a promise, on their part, to meet us on our return, with skins 
of wild animals, specimens, etc. ; but we never saw them again. 

"Four miles to the Piquete Judiarte; river more tortuous, 
winding through twenty points of the compass. This piquete is 
twenty -two miles from Salvador by the river, and nine by land. 
Extensive palm plains begin on the east, and disappear on the 
west. I have observed that rarely or never do those plains ap- 
pear on both banks at the same time. At the Yuelta Caapucu 
the course of the river is diverted by rocky obstructions, and the 
west bank becomes more elevated. After passing the last piquete, 
the Sierra Caapucu may be seen at intervals at some distance in 
the interior. Twenty miles above, it approaches the Paraguay, 
and presents a precipitous rocky bluff, known to the natives as 
Piedra Partida — ' Freestone.' This range extends five miles on 
the river, and throughout the whole distance is covered with fine 
timber. It then recedes again, and terminates about half a mile 
in the interior, in a beautiful cone — Mount Pina Hermosa,* which 
is twenty-six miles from Piquete Judiarte. 

" November 18th. Continue to ascend ; in view upon the left, 
mountain ranges well timbered, contrasting strangely with the 
boundless palm plains of the right bank. At three points in this 
day's work have observed an inclination of the channel to the 
west ; the only deviation from an easterly direction, which it has 
heretofore maintained with great uniformity. May not this arise 
from the physical changes to which I have alluded, and the bar- 
rier which the rocky abutments of the east bank oppose to the 
working of the river in that direction ? 

" November 19th. "With intervals of a few minutes for meals, I 
have worked to-day incessantly for ten hours. This, with the 
debilitating influence of the weather, has produced excessive fa- 
tigue and lassitude. In these latitudes I believe the siesta is es- 
sential to vigorous health. Thermometer has ranged from 84° to 
96° at 3 P.M. Wind K, KB., and KW. At 6 P.M., wind 
S.E. ; thermometer 76° : the influence of the wind, in this in- 
stance, producing, in three hours, a change of temperature great- 

* So called from a stone of fine texture found in it. 



152 BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 

er than is here caused by the seasons ; and this is the uniform 
result. 

"Passing a rocky bluff on the left bank, where stands the Guar- 
dia Apatuya: it is sixty miles above Salvador, and the last of 
these posts but one in approaching the northern frontier. 

" Having broken another crank strap, anchored two miles be- 
yond, at the mouth of the Eiacho Toldocue, which takes its name 
from a tribe of Indians that formerly occupied the adjacent coun- 
try. There is an absence of every mark of civilization, but the 
scenery is surpassingly beautiful ; the distant ranges and spurs of 
sierras on the left, although of no great height, present ever- varying 
landscapes ; and as the steamer passes her length upon the waters, 
picturesque views open upon us in the east with increased beauty. 
From our anchorage, a distant view of Mount Galvan. Cloudy 
weather prevents the usual observations for geographical determ- 
ination. 

" November 20th. Throughout this day the beauty of the face 
of the country has called forth the admiration of all on board. 
On both sides, mountains. On the east, the spurs of the Sierras 
Morada and Ytapucu Guazu, crowned with forests of noble tim- 
ber, approach the river in precipitous sections of stratified rock, 
of from sixty to one hundred feet elevation, and inclose between 
them palm plains, with grass green and fresh as a hay -field in 
June. On the Chaco side, the lofty conical Galvan stands like a 
watch-tower over the plains. Isolated, it rises from a sea of palm 
and grass, which stretches easterly to the river, and on the north, 
south, and west to the verge of the horizon. 

" November 21st. Scenery continues very beautiful. On the 
east, the spurs of the sierras still approach and recede from the 
river, the dark verdure of their forests enameled by the brilliant 
flora of parasite and epiphyte. Our crew, about fifty souls, many 
of them rude seamen — ' they that go down to the sea in ships, 
and occupy their business in great waters' — gaze around them in 
silence, and, from their unusually subdued manner, we may be- 
lieve with hearts touched by the wondrous beauties of creation 
hourly unfolded. They are many hundred miles from the sea, in 
a vessel diminutive, it is true, but one in which they had trav- 
ersed seven thousand miles of ocean before entering these waters. 
Their rugged natures are still disciplined by the laws and regula- 
tions of a national ship, ' afloat,' not upon the broad ocean, but 
upon a river ; not watching the sporting of the Great Leviathan, 



YTAPUCU GUAZIL 



153 



or the phenomena of a vast expanse of sea and sky, but cruising 
through verdant plains, flower-gardens, parks, forests of gigantic 
trees, mountain ranges, their wild grandeur contrasting impress- 
ively with the green fields nestling under and between them. 
There is a pervading woody aroma; all the depth and brilliant 
tints of tropical regions ; new and beautiful species of animal life 
swim across the steamer's track, or appear upon the banks, or 
dash through the bordering forest ; the day is enlivened by con- 
certs of birds of gay plumage ; the stillness of the night is broken 
by strange sounds from the shores, as if all animated life was 
startled by the appearance of this new force of civilization dis- 
turbing the solitude of their domain. 




TERMINATION OF A SPUE OF TTAPUCTJ GUAZC 



" We have now in full view the rocky spurs of the Morada and 
the ' Ytapucu Guazu ;' they contain quarries of a sandstone of 
fine texture, said to be of unequaled quality when worked into 
hones for fine edged tools. On the Chaco side, small patches of 
pumpkins, but no Indian near them ; even on this limited scale 
it is the first cultivation we have seen on that bank. 

11 Anchored off Guardia Concluencia. It stands on the slope 
of a section of the 'Ytapucu Guazu/ and is the northern frontier 
guardia of Paraguay, distant from Asuncion three hundred and 
fifty miles. The encroachments of Brazil and the hostilities of 
the Chaco Indians are here alike feared." 






154 INDIANS OF THE CHACO. 

Soon after landing we received a visit from the commandante, 
who proudly speaks of his guardia as the northern key to the re- 
public. An irreconcilable feud seems to exist between the Para- 
guayans and the warlike Indians of the neighboring territory. 
The savages have few or no canoes, and rarely go upon the water ; 
but the Paraguayans owe their exemption from all hostile incur- 
sion less to the barrier which the river presents than to the divi- 
sions and jealousies existing among the tribes, and to the absence 
among them of all arms that could be effective in invading the 
opposite country ; for, on foot, the bow and arrow, and, mounted, 
the lance, are still their only implements of war. The immensity 
of their territory and their nomadic habits render them, in return, 
safe from all pursuit. Mounted upon fleet horses, with their wives 
and children, and driving flocks and herds before them, they have 
only to plunge into the unexplored regions of their domain. 

Though the white population of La Plata dwell with enthusiasm 
upon the beauty and fruitfulness of the Chaco, few or none but 
the Jesuits have ever attempted to explore the mysteries of its 
interior. We have for some days been passing the lands still 
occupied by Mbayas, Lenguas, Angaite, and Guanos, names famil- 
iar to us from the contests of their progenitors with the Spanish 
conquerors; " nations comprehending innumerable divisions, or 
small tribes, who add to their names with time, and, when ques- 
tioned on this subject, give the new additions without dispensing 
with the old. It is beyond question that the charts of the Jesuits 
scarcely have space for the insertion of their different names, so 
numerous are the tribes."* 

I should judge by my own observation, and from information 
given me by inhabitants of the country, that these unsubjugated 
Indians, with the exception of the domesticity of birds and quad- 
rupeds among them — a thing unknown at the time of the Span- 
ish invasion — still retain the habits and physical characteristics 
which the early writers upon this country, a little later the Jesu- 
its, and more recently Azara, have ascribed to them. A Jesuit 
divides them into "Equestrian" and "Pedestrian" tribes, but 
Azara more justly distinguishes them as " Warlike" and " Agri- 
cultural." Though they are now, and were at the time of the 
Jesuitic influence, skillful horsemen, it was an art acquired from 
the Spaniards, who, as is well known, introduced the horse upon 
that section of the continent ; agriculture was, at the time of the 

* Azara. 



THEIR PHYSICAL VIGOR. 155 

invasion, pursued with success by some of the tribes, while oth- 
ers, warlike and ferocious, lived by the chase or fishing. 

Though many of them now possess horned cattle, sheep, and 
horses, except for the latter, which have, from habit, become nec- 
essary to them, they give to their increase little or no attention. 
Mounted, they course over the Chaco, preferring the precarious 
subsistence of the chase to pastoral or agricultural pursuits, which 
the fruitfulness of the soil, the fine natural pastures, and the con- 
stant recurrence of saliferous lands and waters would make so sure 
and easy a source of supply for all their physical necessities. 

The most extraordinary accounts are given by the Jesuits of 
the size, strength, and vigor of the warlike Chaco Indians. I have 
alluded to the Abipones, a few of whom, in a semi-civilized state, 
we saw near Santa Fe. Dobrizhoffer speaks of them as a nation 
of Masanissas. "If," says this author, " a man dies at eighty, he 
is lamented as if cut off in the flower of his age." He mentions 
men of a hundred mounting fiery horses like boys of twelve years; 
and adds, " Women generally live longer than men, because they 
are not killed in war." He proceeds to account for this lon- 
gevity without physical decay, and their organization, "muscu- 
lar," " robust," and " agile," which he ascribes somewhat to cli- 
matic influence, but still more to the instinctive avoidance by 
youth, both males and females, of licentious courses, and to tem- 
perance through life in food and all sensual gratification. What 
Tacitus says of the ancient Germans he applies to them : " Cibi 
simplices, agrestia poma, recens fera, aut lac concretum, sine appa- 
ratu, sine blandimentis expellunt famem." 

Azara, who wrote many years after the Styrian Jesuit, in speak- 
ing of Lenguas, Mbayas, and other warlike tribes, says, " Their 
height, the grandeur and elegance of their forms and their pro- 
portions are not equaled in the world." He refers constantly to 
Indians, vigorous, athletic, and possessing perfect hair and teeth, 
who had numbered several years over a century. 

A cacique of the Mbayas, Nabidigua, six feet two inches high, 
was, in 1794, asked his age. He replied, " I do not know ; but 
when the Cathedral in Asuncion was begun, I was married and 
had a son." This Cathedral was built in 1689, and, supposing the 
cacique to have been fifteen at the time of his marriage, he must 
have been, in 1794, one hundred and twenty years old, and yet he 
then " mounted his horse, handled his lance, went into war, or fol- 
lowed the chase with the youngest." 



156 THE MBAYAS AND LENGUAS. 

Of all the tribes, the Mbajas continued to give most trouble to 
the white population, crossing the Paraguay and waging war for 
many years so successfully, to the very neighborhood of Asuncion, 
that the Spaniards were forced, in 1746, to conclude a formal treaty 
of peace with them. They are still seen in those parallels of the 
Chaco, 20° and 22° south, which they originally occupied, divided 
into tolderias, or wigwams. Azara, in writing of them at the close 
of the eighteenth century, says, " They had with them many Gua- 
nos, part of an agricultural tribe, who served them, cultivating 
their lands without remuneration ; for this reason the Mbayas 
call them their slaves, but their servitude is gentle, because the 
Guanos submit to it voluntarily and renounce it at will. Added 
to this, their masters give few orders, they never employ an imper- 
ative and obligatory tone, and they partake of all things, even 
their carnal pleasures, with the Guanos, for the Mbayas are not 
jealous." 

The Chaco was both the Elysium and Palestine of the Indians 
in that section of the continent. Undoubtedly occupied by indig- 
enous tribes, it yet became the hiding-place or refuge-home of all 
who fled from the Spaniards of Peru, or from those east of the 
central rivers, but, above all, from the Portuguese slave-hunters ; 
"for there they had mountains for observatories, trackless woods 
for fortifications, rivers and marshes for ditches, and plantations 
of fruit-trees for store-houses."* And there their descendants still 
live, in wild independence, bidding defiance to the white popula- 
tion of the opposite shores of " La Plata." 

I have alluded to our parleys with Lenguas, or Guaycurus, and 
Anguites, and can add my testimony to the assertions of the Jes- 
uits and Spanish authors as to their extraordinary physical organ- 
ization, superior stature, teeth, perfection of limb ; those relating 
to their health and longevity without decay are fully confirmed 
by the people of the country. 

The Paraguay Eiver was generally, but not invariably, the 
boundary between the warlike and agricultural nations. The 
Guanos, to whom I have alluded as the slaves or laborers of the 
Mbayas, were found west of the river, while the innumerable 
tribes comprehended in the Guarani nation occupied a large part 
of Brazil and the country east of the Paraguay and Parana. 

They possessed, at the time of the Spanish invasion, a compar- 
ative civilization, raising corn, rice, and many vegetables ; gather- 

* Dobrizhoffor. 



THE GUANOS ANJJ GUARANIS. 157 

ing wild honey and fruits, distilling a liquor which became popu- 
lar among the Spaniards, and cultivating cotton, from which they 
spun and wove a simple covering for their nakedness. 

Before the revolution, parties of Guanos, in troops of fifty and a 
hundred, descended the Paraguay and Parana, going even to Bue- 
nos Ayres, where they hired themselves, for a limited period, to 
the estancieros ; always choosing to work by the task, leaving their 
arms with the alcalde on entering a village or district, and claim- 
ing them again when ready to return to the Chaco. The descend- 
ants of these agricultural Indians still go forth as laborers in the 
Argentine Confederation, returning at stated periods to their wilds. 

The Guarani nation not only possessed a large part of the coun- 
try now known as Brazil and the basin of La Plata, east of the cen- 
tral rivers, from the sixteenth to the thirtieth degree of latitude, 
but, crossing the upper waters of the Paraguay, they even penetra- 
ted west to the province of Chiquitos, where, at the foot of the An- 
des, numbers of them, under the name of Chiriguanos, were found. 
They acknowledged no one head or chief, but were divided into 
numerous small tribes, designated by the name of its cacique or 
the section of the country they happened to occupy; recognizable, 
however, not only by general characteristics, but by their language, 
precisely the same throughout the tribes of their nation, however 
geographically placed, and yet entirely different from all others of 
the many Indian idioms of the Southern continent. 

With a knowledge of Guarani, one could pass through the ex- 
tent of their territory ; that is, travel through Brazil, enter Para- 
guay, descend to Buenos Ayres, and journey into Peru, without 
finding such changes in the language as might arise from local 
causes. 

But, if the most civilized and the most numerous of all the La 
Plata nations, so were they the most easily conquered, for warlike 
pursuits were distasteful to them. It was among this people that 
the Spaniards formed their largest commanderies, the Jesuits their 
first neophytes; while vast numbers, not only the tribes occupying 
Brazilian territory, but those of the " reductions" of the Jesuits, 
were carried off by the Mamelucas. 

These Indians evinced a wonderful obedience and docility to the 
instructions of the Jesuits ; became, under their military training, 
excellent soldiers ; and, to the honor of the Fathers — upon whom, 
notwithstanding, many of the Spanish writers have exhausted the 
asperities of their language — gave evidence of such submission and 



158 THEIR RELIGIOUS OPINIONS. 

fidelity to the Spanish, monarchy that they participated in many 
of their wars, both against foreign and domestic foes, contributing 
largely to their victories, and saving them from injury, if not ex- 
tirpation, by more than one wide-spread and well-designed Indian 
insurrection; services which were noticed in 1665 and 1666 by 
gracious letters from the " Catholic king," still preserved in the 
archives of Santa Fe. Amid all the humiliation and degradation 
of this aboriginal nation, one great triumph awaited it. In the 
western parts of Brazil, and in all Paraguay, their language was 
preserved, indeed substituted for that of the conquerors, and is to 
this day almost exclusively spoken in the latter country. 

Though entertaining rather absurd ideas of a spiritual existence, 
some few of the La Plata Indians believed in the immortality of 
the soul ; and we have seen that there was even a tradition, the ori- 
gin of which the Spaniards ascribed to the Jesuits, that St. Thomas 
had labored on the American continent. But both laymen and 
Jesuits unite in telling us that among many tribes they discovered 
no traces of a knowledge of God. The contemplation of terrestrial 
or celestial objects had never inspired them with an idea of a cre- 
ative Deity, Father Penafiel declares that many Indians, when 
questioned as to whether they had ever thought of the existence 
of a Supreme Being, replied, ' ' No, never." Dobrizhoffer, who com- 
pleted his theological course in the University of Cordova, says, 
"I finished the four years of theology commenced at Gratz in 
Styria, and defended warmly the opinion that no man in the pos- 
session of his reason can, without a crime, remain ignorant of God 
for any length of time. On removing thence to a colony of Abi- 
pones, I found, to my astonishment, that the whole language of 
these savages did not contain a single word which expresses God 
or Divinity." And yet these Abipones watched with reverence 
the appearance and disappearance of the Pleiades, as the repre- 
sentative of the common ancestor of Spaniard and Indian, the 
grandfather Aharaigichi, who transmitted gold and silver to the 
one and valor to the other. The Guaranis alone had a word for 
God, " Twpd" — Tu, an expression of admiration ; pa, of interro- 
gation. 

This may explain, but not excuse, the extraordinary prejudices 
and inhumanities of the conquerors toward the indigenous inhab- 
itants of the south, whom they pretended to regard, notwithstand- 
ing their extraordinary physical beauty, as a species intermediate 
between man and brute. Such an opinion was not only obstinate- 



TKEATMENT BY THE SPANIARDS. 159 

ly upheld by laymen, but by many learned and respectable eccle- 
siastics, who passed over to the new continent. Thomas Ortez, 
bishop of Saint Martha, addressed an elaborate article on the sub- 
ject to the Supreme Council of Madrid, stating that the experi- 
ence derived from a long and frequent intercourse with the In- 
dians led him to regard them " as stupid beings, incapable as brute 
beasts of comprehending our religion or observing its precepts." 
We know how able an apologist and defender rose up in the per- 
son of Bartolomeo de las Casas, who declared them fully capable 
of understanding all the truths of Christianity. Other ecclesias- 
tics considered them an inferior creation, to whom could be ac- 
corded but one sacrament — baptism. Las Casas boldly alleged 
that both of these positions were assumed only as an excuse for 
the atrocities exercised against the aborigines by the conquerors, 
and obtained in 1537 a bull from Paul III., declaring them human 
beings, who could receive all the sacraments of the Church. Pow- 
erful as were the popes of the sixteenth century, both in temporal 
and spiritual affairs, they could not vanquish the prejudice, real 
or pretended, of priests and laymen. Elaborate treatises were 
written to prove the inferiority of the Indian race ; and, for a cen- 
tury after the conquest of Peru, its curates, with the sanction of 
their bishops, persisted in refusing them the Eucharist, upon the 
pretext of incapacity to comprehend the great mystery of the 
Church. This prejudice vanished only with time, and before the 
authority of more than one ecclesiastical council, assembled in the 
cities of Peru and La Plata to decide the question. The poor 
Indian obtained one advantage by this doubt — exemption from 
the fearful tribunals of the Inquisition. 



160 RIO APPA.— A TAPIR. 



CHAPTEE X. 

Eio Appa. — A Tapir. — Differences between Brazil and Paraguay as to the Bounda- 
ries. — Letter from Mr. Hudson. — Point Bock. — Sierra Siete Punta. — Pan de 
Azucar. — Ascent of the Mountain. — The View. — Speculations on the Future of 
this Country. — Round Top. — Fort Bourbon. — Claims of Bolivia and Paraguay. 
— Bahia Blanca. — Vuelta Pariquito. — Capon Chico. — A Boa. — Dorado, Pacu, 
and Palometa. — Ascent of the Bahia Blanca. — Camelotas. — Suspending of the 
Bottle to a Tree. — Proposition of Don Manuel Louis de Oliden. — Grant by the 
Congress of Bolivia. — Decree of the Supreme Government. — Importance at- 
tached to the Navigation of the Otuquis. — Extract from a Pamphlet by Mauri- 
cio Back. — Fort Coimbra. — Flattering Expressions of the Commandante. — The 
Guaycurus. — Policy of Brazil toward the Chaco Indians. — The Canoe. 

"November 19th, 1853. Anchored off the mouth of the Rio Appa, 
known to the early Spanish settlers as the Corrientes, but changed 
to its present name by the Mbayas when they overran this entire 
region. It rises about thirty miles in the interior of Paraguay, in 
the Cordillera Amambay. On anchoring, took a boat, and, accom- 
panied by several of the officers, pulled six miles up this river ; 
found its general width about three hundred yards, with a depth 
of not less than nine feet ; banks low. We were prepared to 
make additions to our collection of animals, birds, and plants, but 
met with no great success. Not a bird was to be seen of which 
we had not already procured a specimen. The plants were few, 
the flora consisting principally of the rich clusters of a variety of 
creepers, which, by their varied tinges, gave a gay relief to the dark 
foliage of a shrubby growth around which they were entwined. 

"Saw several capibara and tapirs. The first we secured; the 
latter escaped us, for its tough skin defied a volley from our party 
that would have brought down a dozen ordinary animals. We 
first saw it swimming across the river, showing only its head. 
One pronounced it a log, another a tiger ; but, soon discovering it 
to be a strange animal never before seen, every gun was pointed, 
and the men plied their oars in eager pursuit. It was impossible 
to intercept him before reaching the shore, where he disappeared 
in a thicket. We beached the boat, and each man, with his gun, 
made a rush to the nearest point. The animal was tracked for 
some di§tance, but the impenetrable thorny undergrowth formed 
a barrier to the chase, but not to the escape of the tapir, who to a 



DISPUTES BETWEEN BRAZIL AND PARAGUAY. 161 

thick skin adds fleetness equal to that of the horse, and strength 
which enables him to break through any thicket, however matted, 
dense, or thorny." 

I afterward procured one alive, which was shipped for home, 
but he died on the passage. We found two varieties of wild 
fruit, the "No hace," about the size of a large plum, growing on 
a lofty tree, and the " Evepina," similar in appearance to a cherry. 

The Eio Appa has been considered the northern boundary be- 
tween Brazil and Paraguay ; at leasjfc, the Imperial Government so 
regards it ; but the Paraguayans protest against any such limita- 
tion of their territory, and claim to the Bahia Blanca. This ques- 
tion of limits has been for years one of diplomatic discussion, ne- 
gotiation, and bad feeling between the two countries, and has, un- 
til very recently, excluded Brazil from all communication, by the 
lower waters of the Paraguay, with Matto Grosso. Paraguay, by 
what right does not appear, claims both banks up to Bahia Blan- 
ca, and, as a consequence, control over the navigation of the river ; 
the very course the Imperial Government has pursued toward its 
hemmed-in neighbors, Peru and Bolivia. 

President Lopez perfectly comprehends the importance of this 
highway to Brazil, and knows that it presses more and more upon 
her annually. In the management of this question he has dis- 
played astuteness, foresight, and accomplished diplomacy; uni- 
formly quoting to the Imperial Government its own policy in 
closing the Amazon and its confluents to the northwestern repub- 
lics. It therefore can not consistently demur to the exercise of 
this right by another power. The territory in dispute would be 
of little value but for the points within it bordering upon the 
Paraguay, which are important as military positions, for they 
would give any nation holding them entire control over that riv- 
er. Imperial guns mounted at the Pan de Azucar, or at Olimpo 
(Fort Bourbon), might well occasion uneasiness to Paraguay. 
They would not only command her frontier, but might prove the 
beginning of a system of inclosure, contracting its circle until 
there would appear an imperium in imperio ; not a "sick man," 
who must, by reason of his infirmities, be put aside, but a weak 
child, needing for its safety and nurture a strong protecting arm. 
In short, Paraguay would be absorbed and incorporated as an in- 
tegral part of the "Empire of South America." On one ground 
alone is President Lopez willing to settle this question : that is, to 
leave the territory in dispute entirely unoccupied by either country. 

11 



162 ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. 

The exploration of the "Water Witch" demonstrated the prac- 
ticability of sending large steamers np the river, beyond the lim- 
its of Paraguay, and probably induced Brazil in 1855 to push this 
question to an issue. It was then that she sent up the fleet to 
which I have alluded. On what grounds the concession was 
finally made I have not learned, but it has been granted, as I am 
informed by letter from Mr. Hudson, our consul at Buenos Ayres.* 

" November 19th. A very remarkable change in the temperature 
has taken place within the last twenty -four hours. Yesterday, 
the 18th, wind north ; at 3 P.M. thermometer stood at 97°. To- 
day at same hour it has fallen to 79°, wind W.S.W., and at mid- 
night to 68°, wind south. Although within the tropics, and ap- 
proaching the mountainous regions of Brazil and Bolivia, we ob- 
serve constantly the influence of south winds in lowering the 
temperature. 

" The country, after leaving Eio Appa, to Point Eock, a distance 
of about fifty miles, is on both sides elevated but a few feet above 
the river, and has the usual growth of palm and grass. Point 
Rock, an isolated granitic hill, or mount, is on the left bank, and 
rises to the height of ninety feet, throwing out a rocky ledge half 
way across the river, and forcing the channel toward the west, 
where it forms the Paso Taruma. Upon the same side we have 
had, since leaving " Rio Appa," a distant view of the " Sierra da 
Amarbay," which stretches south about thirty miles inland. In 
the Chaco, the horizon is bounded by the Sierra Siete Puntas, its 
nearest point to the river being a detached, rounded, and wooded 
mount, which rises abruptly from the plain in latitude 21° 47' 
south. 

" After leaving Point Rock the face of the country again changes ; 
we have no longer the monotony of flat plains, but the most divers- 
ified and picturesque landscapes. On the east are many isolated 
mountains, some rising directly from the river banks, others at a 
distance in the interior, all overtopped by the giant Pan deAzucar, 
a conical volcanic peak 1350 feet high. The river is now divided 
by a wooded island which rises about eighty feet above the water- 
level. We passed through the west branch, which has a width of 

* "January 27th, 1857. A steamer Corca, from Rio, has gone up to Matto Gros- 
so, towing three vessels with cargoes. Lopez, in spite of his treaty with Brazil, is 
throwing every impediment in their way. The first cargo — the Madrugas — that went 
up to Matto Grosso paid four hundred per cent, profit. Salt sold for twenty-two 
silver dollars the fanega — three and a half bushels." 



ASCENT OF PAN DE AZUCAR, 




PAN BE AZFCAR. 



one hundred and fifty feet, depth seventy, and anchored one mile 
above, having Pan de Azucar east of the anchorage. These de- 
tached, rounded elevations to which I allude are all on the east. 
The monotony of the west plain is unbroken but by a solitary 
mountain, rising directly from the bank of the river, as if detached 
by a convulsion of nature from its opposite neighbor." 

November 21st, 5 o'clock A.M. Accompanied by Lieutenant 
Powell, Dr. Carter, and the pilot Bernardino, I started for the as- 
cent of Pan de Azucar. After wading for about a mile and a half 
through a sea of grass, we reached the foot of the mountain, and 
commenced the ascent. Making our way over volcanic rocks pro- 
truding beyond a shrubby growth, and at times through closely 
matted and almost impenetrable masses of vegetation, we had ad- 
vanced about two thirds of the distance, when the doctor and pilot 
gave out, and decided to remain and keep each other company. 
Spoiled in a cruise of several months, where we had only to " clip 
alongside" for the luxury of fresh water, not one of us had thought 
of bringing a single bottle of the essential element. Thirst was 
excessive; but we continued the ascent, and by 8 o'clock A.M. Mr. 
Powell and myself were standing upon the rounded summit, where 



1^4 VIEW FROM THE MOUNTAIN. 

a stunted and scattering growth offered no obstacle to a clear and 
uninterrupted view of the country in every direction. 

The day, fortunately for us, was not intensely hot. At 8 A.M. 
thermometer stood at 79°. The wind was then south ; it had been 
prevailing during the last two days from southeast and southwest, 
within which time the lowest temperature was 65°, on the 20th at 
6 A.M., and the highest 79° ; a remarkable change from the read- 
ing of the 19th, which gave as a minimum and maximum 84° and 
97°. We obtained a reading of the barometer, which, in connec- 
tion with simultaneous observations made on board ship, gave the 
height of the mountain at thirteen hundred and fifty feet above 
the river. According to our observations, it is in latitude 21° 25' 
10'', longitude 57° 55'' 54" west, three quarters of a mile from the 
river on the east bank, sixty-three from the Eio Appa, and three 
hundred and ninety miles from Asuncion. 

On all sides below us was a grassy palm-plain, relieved here 
and there by dark belts of forest, and by insulated mountains or 
hills, some peaked, others rounded, some rising precipitously for 
several hundred feet, others sloping gracefully to the plain. The 
southern horizon was bounded by the wavy undulations of the 
Cordillera de Amarbay and the sharp outlines of the SietePuntas 
— Seven Peaks. In the Chaco, far away to the north, was the Te- 
cho da Morro. 

There were no estancias in view, with their sleek herds, no or- 
ange groves, no green promise, no golden tints of ripening or ma- 
tured cereals ; not a habitation or sign of civilized or savage life. 
The solitude would have been oppressive but for the beauty of 
the face of the country, and the exhilaration caused by the deli- 
cious atmosphere, tempered by southern breezes. 

May I be excused if, under its influence, or an imperious in- 
stinct of our nature — American nature — I found myself speculat- 
ing upon the future of these favored regions ; a great predestined 
future, none could doubt, who for many months had voyaged 
through such a valley of beauty, presenting, with the exception 
of that of our Mississippi, the fairest unbroken extent of cultiva- 
ble land in the world. Is this wealth of creation to remain una- 
vailable for the comfort and happiness of men, while the powers 
holding dominion over it invite immigration, and the over-crowd- 
ed cities of Europe teem with millions whose cry is bread ? When 
the dungeons of Southern Italy re-echo the sighs of men who have 
dared to aspire to political independence? and while the indus- 



THE FUTURE OF LA PLATA. 165 

trial nations are seeking new sources of supply in raw material 
and new outlets for their manufactures ? and while, even in Con- 
stitutional England, in underground dens, or within the shadow 
of palatial precincts, are hid, not sheltered, men, women, and chil- 
dren, crushed, not by vice, but a poverty that generates crime? 
Emigrants to the valley of La Plata may reach their homes in 
ocean steamers. No barren wildernesses are to be traversed. 
No long winters or autumnal exhalations are to be feared. There 
is much to allure, nothing to repel. - No warring, as in the valley 
of the Amazon and Orinoco, with Indian, beast, and reptile, and, 
above all, with the great dragon, tropical miasma, which the mind 
and strength of the white race are impotent to conquer. If Bo- 
livia, Paraguay, the States of the Argentine Confederation, and of 
Buenos Ayres, would unite and form, for great purposes, a com- 
munity of nations, neither filibustering hosts nor imperial armies 
or fleets could be feared. Under the segis of a liberal Constitution, 
which would reject all bigoted exclusiveness of political or relig- 
ious doctrine, added to the facilities which climate and soil offer to 
new populations — above all, to cultivators and artisans — the face 
of these wilds would be transfigured into prosperous states, the 
parts of a South American Kepublic, which would advance to a 
zenith of unprecedented power. Spanish galleons, freighted with 
the "fifths" of majesty; the ships of Portugal and Great Britain, 
laden with the profits of illegal trade, will never again sail from 
La Plata. But the steamers of maritime nations, bearing the prod- 
ucts of industrial power, will cover her interior water-courses, and, 
in return, pour into the lap of those nations the indigenous agri- 
cultural and mineral wealth of the Western Indies. No over- 
throw of existent governments, no political revulsions are neces- 
sary to place the inhabitants of these regions under the beneficent 
influences of a great republican civilization. 

But my dreams and speculations were at an end as we went 
pitching down the steep, in many places precipitous sides of the 
mountain, here catching at a shrub, there resting against a rock. 
The descent proved far more difficult than the ascent had been. 
We found the doctor and Bernardino where we had left them. 
The former, oppressed with drowsiness, had kept awake, not rel- 
ishing the idea of being caught napping by a jaguar, while the 
pilot philosophically refreshed himself with a long sleep. At last 
we reached the river, and relieved our thirst and fatigue by rush- 
ing into its waters. 



/ 



166 FORT BOURBON. 

We returned with some additions to our ornithologic collection 
— a few birds not before seen, among them a toucan; also some 
fruit of the "yatay guazu" a palm not found south of the Pan de 
Azucar, and differing somewhat from the trees of that family 
growing so extensively on the plains, being less lofty, and the 
trunk of greater diameter. 

The width of the river at our anchorage off Pan de Azucar was 
about one third of a mile ; temperature of water 84°. From Sal- 
vador, the general width is from a quarter to one third of a mile. 
Least depth since passing the Malo Paso, eighteen feet ; greatest, 
ninety feet of line, and no bottom. 

" November 2 2d The character of the river, height of banks, 
and their growth, have varied but little to Olimpo, or Fort Bour- 
bon, thirty-three miles from Pan de Azucar. . Two miles above 
our last anchorage, near the mountain in view from the Chaco 
side, and distant about three miles from the river, was Pound 
Top — Techo da Motto ; opposite were a few detached hills. "With 
these exceptions the country is low, with palms and grass. Here 
and there, where the banks are slightly elevated, are patches, but 
no extended reaches of good timber. Twenty-four miles above the 
mount, half concealed by a small island on the west bank, which 
rises twelve feet above the water, we saw on the east a toldo or 
wigwam, but no Indians — a good position whence to escape to 
the Chaco if molested by Paraguayans ; of this, however, they 
could have but little apprehension, as no force has yet ventured 
such a distance — ninety-three miles from a frontier guardia. The 
range of the Sierra Olimpo, as here represented, is seen at the 
distance of two miles, bearing north by west in the Chaco. Upon 
its northern extremity, which slopes to the river, stands Fort 
Bourbon, according to our observations in latitude 21° 01/ 39", 
longitude 57° 55' 40", and variation 1° east. Passing half a. mile 
above, we anchored with the fort bearing S. 5° E." 

Soon after coming to anchor we visited the now abandoned 
fort. It stands on the lowest point of the Olimpo range, not more 
than forty-five feet above the river, here one third of a mile in 
width, and forms a square of one hundred feet, having at each 
angle bastions, which alone were intended for guns, as the walls, 
fourteen feet high, and two and a half in thickness, are without 
embrasures. It is built of a sandstone found in the neighboring 
sierras, and its position is admirably chosen for commanding the 
channel of the river ; but it is commanded, in turn, by the heights 



DISPUTED JURISDICTION. 169 

in its vicinity. It was constructed in 1798 by order of Charles 
III. of Spain, as a barrier against the encroachments of the Por- 
tuguese of Matto Grrosso and the hostilities of Chaco Indians. In 
1822 it was garrisoned by order of Francia ; was abandoned by 
President Lopez in 1850 ; but was reoccupied by Paraguay after 
the opening of the river to Brazilian vessels in 1856. 

Upon the sierra, immediately adjoining the fort, is an enormous 
corral, encircled by a wall six feet high, in good preservation, 
which was formerly used to protect the cattle of the fort from In- 
dian depredation. 

Fort Olimpo, with the adjacent country, is claimed by Bolivia, 
on grounds apparently more tenable than those upon which are 
based the rights of Paraguay. By a decree of the government in 
1852, it was made one of three free ports of entry, to which they 
invited the flags of all nations, offering a prize of ten thousand 
dollars to the first commercial expedition that might enter either 
one of them. 

President Lopez considered this step as an insult to Paraguay, 
and an attempted infraction of her territorial rights, but proceeded 
to no active measures for setting it aside, trusting to the" distance 
of Olimpo from the populous provinces of Bolivia, and the in- 
ability of that republic to support here a garrison adequate to the 
enforcement of her decree. Again, there are other claimants — 
the caciques of the warlike Chaco tribes. Their claim is based 
on priority of title and present occupation ; for, with the excep- 
tion of this fort and a few dilapidated huts, the former quarters of 
officers, there is nowhere around or in its vicinage, for many miles, 
a vestige of occupation by the. white race. It stands as isolated 
from all civilization as a desert island of the ocean, far from a hab- 
itable coast. 

The Sierra Olimpo is covered with noble timber, and affords 
fuel of excellent quality for steam, which we can readily believe 
to be one of the predestined agents for the development of this 
country. I have constantly alluded to the vast palm plains, but, 
since entering the Paraguay, we have never run a single day 
without passing broad forests, or points sufficiently wooded to 
furnish material for all the purposes of navigation. I was aston- 
ished to find within the walls of the fort, which had been aban- 
doned for more than three years, a cotton plant, growing with 
vigor, blooming and bearing matured cotton of the finest quality. 

Five miles from Olimpo we reached Bahia Blanca — "White 



170 SALT LAKE. 

Bay," into which empties the Eio Blanco, an insignificant stream. 
This point is only important from being claimed by Paraguay as 
her northern boundary. All the territory beyond, on the east, is 
owned, without question from neighboring powers, by Brazil, and 
on the west by Bolivia and Brazil; and, though no limits are 
clearly assigned to imperial possession south, or to Paraguay 
north, they are probably inclined to leave Bolivia a small outlet 
by which to reach the great central highway through the Eiver 
Otuquis, which flows into the Bahia Negra, and thus connects 
with the Paraguay. A short distance beyond the fort, the coun- 
try bordering the river on both sides assumes a remarkable 
change. So far as the eye can reach, there is a sea of vigorous 
grass, with no trees, save here and there a cluster of willows and 
alders. The grass encroaches upon the river, apparently floating 
upon the water, where the banks are not precipitous, and there is 
little or no current. 

At the Vuelta Pariqueti, forty-eight miles from Olimpo, the 
lands adjacent to the river on the right bank again are elevated, 
and skirted by a noble growth of lapacho; nandubay, and al- 
garroba. The left side continues low and marshy for a mile or 
two beyond, where it is broken by a riacho, the banks of which 
for some distance are well timbered ; an evidence generally, if not 
uniformly, of land exempt from periodical inundations. The riv- 
er from Olimpo to this point is tortuous, embracing, by its course, 
sixty- two geographical miles, with a difference in latitude of only 
twenty -five, and ten in longitude. 

We anchored off Lake Salinas, latitude 20° 36' 24" south. It 
is a lagoon, which at the dry season becomes a saline flat. A few 
huts stand upon the edges of the lagoon, and are occupied during 
the " season" by Brazilians from Albuquerque, Corumba, and even 
Cuyaba. Salt is one of the requirements of northwestern Brazil 
not found in the country, and large parties, in long canoes, come to 
these salinas from Cuyaba, the capital of Matto Grosso, a distance 
of five hundred miles, and return with deeply -laden boats against 
a current of two miles the hour. This is the principal source 
from which a supply is obtained, and, as may be well understood, 
it is of indifferent quality. Under the effects of solar evaporation, 
the efflorescence is so abundant that no inconsiderable quantity is 
obtained from the surface. The profits of a trade in this one ar- 
ticle may be estimated from its scarcity.* 

* Sec tlie letter quoted from Mr. Hudson, p. 162. 



BAHIA NEGRA.— FISHING. 171 

" November 24d7i, 6 o'clock A.M., temperature of air, 88° ; water, 
86° ; wind north. Past night oppressively hot in cabin ; tempera- 
ture throughout the night, 82° ; on deck, 81°. Calm on the pre- 
ceding day ; on the 23d, temperature 76° at 6 A.M ; 93° at 3 P.M. 

" November 26th. Have this day steamed from the saline lagoons 
forty-eight miles. Found little change in the physical features 
of the river or adjacent country. Northern borders of the salinas 
are covered with firm timber, and twenty miles above it, at Capon 
Chico, the Chaco side is well wooded. Fourteen miles beyond 
this, on the same side, a forest of quebracho. Anchored off the 
mouth of the Bahia ISTegra. The appearance of this, 'bahia' is 
that of a river, and I have determined to explore it. The color of 
the water, and its current, satisfied me that what we saw was not 
the discharge of a bay, formed by the backing up of the waters of 
the Paraguay during the season of inundation, but of a tributary, 
and one of great interest, as flowing from the west, through which 
might be opened a communication with the eastern borders of 
Bolivia. 

"We caught in the river near our anchorage a boa seven feet 
in length. Found some difficulty in putting the huge reptile alive 
into alcohol without injuring it, as a specimen." 

On approaching the entrance of Bahia Negra, we were aston- 
ished at the number of fish, apparently myriads. We anchored 
at the confluence of the two waters, to give the officers and men a 
little sport, and an opportunity to obtain food and specimens. I 
have caught the Eed Snapper and Grooper on the coasts of Flor- 
ida and Mexico, where one might haul in the sluggish, inactive 
fish as lazily as an " old soldier of a tar" would take in the " slack 
of a rope," but I have never witnessed fishing such as this, at the 
confluence of the Bahia ISTegra and Paraguay. In an incredibly 
short time, hooks baited with pork were floating by dozens astern ; 
and scarcely had they touched the water, when hundreds offish 
would spring eagerly at each bait. Dorado, Pacu, and Palometa 
(all delicious for the table) were among the varieties caught. The 
Dorado, so called from its golden color, is from two to three feet in 
length, and weighs from eighteen to twenty -four pounds ; its flesh is 
white and solid. The strength of this fish is wonderful. When 
hauled in, it would spring into the air some fifteen or twenty 
feet, not unfrequently detaching itself, or severing the hook from 
the line, and looking, as it darted upward, like a huge golden vessel 
incrusted with gems. The Pacu is of a dark grayish color ; its 



172 ASCENT OF THE RIO NEGRO. 

breadth is about two thirds its length, and the largest caught 
weighed twentj-two pounds. The Palometa is of very much the 
same form as the Pacu, though not so large ; in color, a light 
gray, with yellow belly. This latter is more formidable to swim- 
mers than any other inhabitant of the La Plata waters. Each of 
its jaws is armed with a row of triangular teeth, which cut like 
the sharpest knife. 

We have uniformly noticed a great gathering offish at the con- 
fluence of the tributaries with the central waters : this is doubtless 
owing to the quantity of young ones brought down by the small- 
er streams. 

" November 25th. Ascending the Bahia, or Eio Negro. I call it 
a river, because, until lost in a sea of grass, it has every appear- 
ance and characteristic of one. 

"After proceeding twenty -five miles, the crank strap broke for 
the fourth time since leaving Asuncion. Anchored in fourteen feet 
water. Banks low, covered with a scattered and inferior growth 
of trees ; grass vigorous and green ; width of river at anchorage, 
six hundred yards ; temperature of air at six P.M., 92° ; water, 
85° ; wind K.E. Greatest depth since entering this water, thirty 
feet; least, twelve. Position of anchorage on the night of the 
26th, latitude 19° 52' 42" south, longitude 58° 16' 34" west. 

" To the northeast, mountains of Coimbra and Albuquerque ; in 
every other direction, grass and water as boundless -as the ocean. 
Horizon so clearly defined that the altitude of a heavenly body 
might be taken during the day with the same accuracy as by ob- 
servation made with a sea horizon. 

" November 27th. Under way at an early hour. The river con- 
tracted rapidly in width, so much so as to make it difficult to 
round the points without running the bows of the steamer into 
the grass. Continued to advance for two hours, when the channel 
was so narrowed by grass that both wheels were in it, and yet we 
had a depth of twelve feet water. Anchored and took to a boat, 
determined, if possible, to see whither the stream would lead -or 
from whence it came. Ascended six miles above the position of 
the Water Witch. Here the river was entirely closed by came- 
lotes and grass, and yet we still had nine feet water. A solitary 
dwarfed tree, of the mimosa family, was standing six feet above 
the water level, where its depth was five feet. 

" We suspended to one of its branches a bottle by copper wire ; 
it contained the name of the steamer, her position, and names of 



A SEA OF GRASS. 173 

officers. We had still to the east the blue outlines of the Brazil- 
ian mountains, the nearest, in a right line, distant twenty -two miles. 
Northwest, the direction whence I supposed this river to now, 
grass, water, and sky. We pulled up some of this grass ; it meas- 
ured in length twelve feet, and from a quarter to half an inch in 
diameter. The point reached was in latitude 19° 50' 53" south, 
longitude 58° 15' 29" west, thirty-one miles from its confluence 
with the Paraguay ; general direction thus far, north. The dis- 
tance in a right line between these two points, it will be seen, is 
about twenty miles. Temperature, maximum meridian, 95°, wind 
N.KK; at 3 P.M., 94°, windKKW.; minimum, at 3 A.M., 80° ; 
water at meridian, 88-J- . 

"It is with deep regret that I am obliged to leave this l Bahia' 
without having satisfied myself whence come its waters. I am 
convinced that it is not the backing up of the Paraguay. The 
current forbids that idea, and the color, even at its junction, is in 
strange contrast with that of the latter. Between the seasons of 
high and low water I can not believe that the waters of the Para- 
guay could back into this bay, deposit detritus, and receive a color 
unvarying from its mouth to the point of ascent, black, and yet, in 
a glass, perfectly limpid, more so than the water of the Parana, 
while that of the Paraguay is uniformly turbid. This alone would 
convince me that it flows from the high lands of Boh via, and may 
be a navigable stream into the interior of that country. If this 
fact could be established, it would prove of inestimable value, not 
only to the mediterranean state, but to the whole civilized world. 
So far as my observation enables me to judge, I perceive no insur- 
mountable obstacle to the navigation of this river. I am convinced 
that a steamer properly constructed could skim over or cut through 
this sea of grass." 

We retraced our steps, after some difficulty in getting the steam- 
er's bows down stream. She was at last pointed in the right direc- 
tion, and cutting through the grass which surrounded her, first on 
one side, then on the other, we descended, and again entered the 
Paraguay. Before leaving the Bahia, observed a noble deer on 
the left bank : it stood for a minute perfectly still, as if paralyzed 
by the appearance of the Water Witch. We thought ourselves 
sure of a fine specimen, but, before we had gotten within gunshot 
distance, with one bound it cleared the bushes that skirted the bank, 
and was in an instant hid from view in a neighboring thicket. 

From the following extracts may be gathered the importance at 



A 



174 NAVIGATION OF THE OTUQUIS. 

one time attached to a navigable outlet from that part of Bolivia 
through which the Otuquis flows, and the measures taken to es- 
tablish it. 

Senor Don Manuel Luis de Oliden made a proposition to the 
Congress of Bolivia to open the navigation of the Eiver Otuquis 
to its confluence with the Paraguay, in consideration of which the 
Congress passed the following act on the 5th November, 1832 : 

" The Executive will grant to Citizen Manuel Luis de Oliden such aids 
as it may think proper, in order to enable him to establish a port at the 
confluence of the rivers Otuquis, Tucabaca, and Latiriquiqui, or at such point 
as may be most suitable, in order to open the navigation of these into the 
River Paraguay, conceding-, in addition, those privileges which are due to 
him as the originator of this enterprise. 

(Signed), "I. EUSTAQUIO EQUIBAK, President. 

"DIONISIO BASSIENTOS, Secretary." 

This was followed by the subjoined decree of the "Supreme 
Government," issued on the 17th November, 1832 : 

" The government being authorized by the foregoing act of Congress of 
November 5th, 1832, to grant to Citizen Manuel Luis de Oliden such aids 
as it may think proper, in order to enable him to establish a port at the con- 
fluence of the Rivers Tucabaca, Otuquis, and Latiriquiqui, in the province of 
Chiquitos, and to accord to him such privileges as he may be entitled to ; and, 
the said Manuel Luis de Oliden, having bound himself to the accomplish- 
ment of this undertaking in the terms of the following articles, concedes to 
him privileges, immunities, and guaranties in the following terms, viz. : 

" Art. 1. There is granted to Citizen Manuel Luis de Oliden, from the 
point he may select at which to establish a port on the River Otuquis, south 
of the province of Chiquitos, twenty-five leagues of territory, in every direc- 
tion, for himself and his heirs. 

" Art. 2. The port he may establish shall be his property for the term 
of fifty years, at the expiration of which time it shall revert to the 6 nacion.' 

'•' Art. 3. All the foreign goods and products introduced through this port 
during the above-mentioned fifty years shall pay not more than five per 
cent, duty, which shall be collected at the points where the articles are con- 
sumed, under appraisements according to the tariff of the republic. 

" Art. 4. During the aforesaid term of fifty years, the government will 
not appoint any officer or employe ; and those that may be necessary will 
be appointed and paid by the contractor. Nevertheless, should the govern- 
ment deem it advisable to make any appointments, it may make only such 
as shall be deemed necessary to facilitate the collection of the duties on ar- 
ticles introduced into the interior of the republic, and these shall be paid by 
the government. 



THE OLIDEN GRANT. 175 

"Art. 5. This establishment shall be governed by the Constitution and 
laws of the republic. 

" Art. 6. The privileges and grants which the government concedes and 
guarantees to Manuel Luis de Oliden and his successors may be transferred 
to and enjoyed by such persons to whom he may convey his right of proper- 
ty, under the same conditions as set forth in this decree. 

" Art. ?. This establishment will be under the authority and protection 
of the Supreme Government, with which the contractor (el empresario) will 
communicate through the minister of the interior. 

" Art. 8. If , at the end of four years from this date, this establishment 
and the opening of navigation be not made, although it may not be in oper- 
ation, this decree shall be null and void." 

Copies of the papers from which, these extracts have been made 
were sent to me after the publication of my Synoptical Eeport to 
the Secretary of the Navy on the La Plata Expedition. I was 
not before aware how great an interest was felt in establishing the 
navigability of the Otuquis, and its connection with the Paraguay. 
An intelligent and highly respectable Englishman, who had for 
many years resided in Buenos Ayres, was at that time in London 
to establish a company for the settlement of the "Oliden Grant." 
I have since been gratified by receiving letters from England and 
France stating that my allusion to the possibility of opening a 
water communication from the Paraguay to Bolivia had inspired 
many with such confidence that a colonization company was 
forming for that republic. 

The decree of Congress, followed by the executive proclama- 
tion, will explain the terms of agreement between Mr. Oliden and 
the government of Bolivia. Chiquitos is described as being the 
richest of her provinces. It was the scene of the labors of the 
Jesuits, and the seat of some of the most celebrated missions of 
that order. D'Orbigny speaks of it as "abounding in Nature's 
gifts." 

The Oliden Grant in this province, between the parallels of 
17° 45' and 20° 15' south, is bounded on the east by the Paraguay 
Eiver, and extends one hundred and fifty miles west. This, it 
will be seen, includes the settlements and military posts now held 
by the Brazilian government; but as the territory claimed by 
that empire reaches but a short distance west of the Paraguay, and 
does not embrace any portion of the Otuquis Eiver or Bahia Ne- 
gra, even should this claim be persisted in and conceded by Boliv- 
ia, it can not materially affect this grant. The agricultural ex- 



176 OLIDEN' S OPERATIONS. 

periments upon the lands of Oliden were interesting, and show 
what has been accomplished within these limits. I quote from & 
" Descripcion de la Nueva Provincia da Otuquis en Bolivia: par 
Mauricio Back." 

" The village of Santiago, which Mr. Oliden made in 1833 the centre of 
his operations, on the southern border of the province of Chiquitos, and sit- 
uated on the Cordillera of the same name, has a population of 1380 souls, 
and enjoys a temperate, salubrious climate. This Cordillera, whence issue 
many small streams, which form the River i Otuquis,' contains, according to 
reliable authority, mines of gold, silver, quicksilver, and precious stones. 
In the mountains are most valuable woods and medicinal plants. On the 
plains south of this Cordillera are skirts of wood, palm, and grass lands, 
suited for grazing. The soil is of remarkable fertility. 

" At a distance of seven leagues from the above-mentioned point Mr. 
Oliden formed his first settlement on the ' Rio Agua Caliente' — Hot Eiver 
— over the ruins of the old town of Santiago, founded by the Jesuits, which 
is now called i Florida.' The c Agua Caliente' takes its rise in a warm lake 
five leagues south of Santiago. This settlement was composed in the year 
1836 of several handsome houses, which had been erected by order of the 
i empresario,' and is the point which he had selected for his own residence. 
He established large farms, which were cultivated with great success : corn, 
of which two crops were made annually ; rice equal to that of Bengal ; 
mandioca of extraordinary size ; coffee of superior quality ; cocoa, sugar-cane, 
and tobacco — this last the best known — sweet potatoes, peanuts, beans of 
every variety, and every class of vegetables. 

" He established estancias south of this town, on rivers of never-failing 
water, where the grazing was abundant for the rearing of cattle, sheep, and 
mules. From Florida he opened a road to the great salina, distant fifty 
leagues, from which, by way of the Cordillera 'de Lances,' it may be con- 
tinued to i Chuquisaca' and i Tarija.' Another road was opened from Flor- 
ida to Oliden, the central point of the new province, and distant sixteen 
leagues east. This was the situation of the old town of c Corezon de Jesus,' 
founded by the Jesuits on an elevated plain by the side of the 'Rio Tucu- 
baca,' in latitude 19° 04/ south, longitude 61° 03' west from Paris. An- 
other road has been opened from Oliden to the town of c Santa Corezon.' 
distant twenty-two leagues N.N.E. This town has a population of 1106 
souls, and its climate is rather hot than temperate. On this road, and at 
the distance of fifteen leagues from e Oliden,' the empresario established a 
* hacienda' — a farm, which he called < Sietos,' for the cultivation particular- 
ly of cotton and sugar-cane. Its product in the year 1836 was very consid- 
erable. 

" In the vicinity of the town of ( Santiago,' on the Serrania of the same 
name, and in the valley formed by the same, he established another hacien- 



FORT COIMBRA. 179 

da called ( Rinconadra,' for the cultivation of the sugar-cane. Its product 
in the same year was equal to that of i Sietos.' " 

As the navigability of the Otuquis is supposed to be establish- 
ed from the high lands of Bolivia for a long distance in its course 
southeast, and as the expedition under my command examined it 
for thirty-one miles above its confluence with, the Paraguay, it 
only remains to determine the connection between these two 
points. 

The government of Bolivia has 'always been liberal in offering 
inducements to immigration, feeling perhaps assured that through 
the energy of foreign populations alone can the riches of that re- 
public — the " golden" and the " garden" spot of La Plata — be 
brought to light. It is a source of gratification to know that the 
late explorations of the "Water Witch have contributed something 
toward the consummation of such a point, by establishing the fact 
of an easy and safe navigation for ocean steamers from the At- 
lantic to Bahia Kegra, a fact not before practically demonstrated, 
therefore not confidently believed. 

" November 27th, 1853. Again under way ; beyond Bahia Negra, 
little change in the aspect of the river or adjacent country to Fort 
Coimbra in Brazil, thirty-three miles from Olimpo, where we an- 
chored after dark, and immediately received a visit from the com- 
mandante, who had overland orders from his government anticipa- 
tory of our arrival. This gentleman, Antonia Peixoto de Azevido 
Ravim Capite, said that he had for some time been watching for us, 
and at last, with strange emotion, saw the smoke and lights of the 
little steamer as she plowed the waters of the wilderness." 

Fort Coimbra is the first Brazilian settlement south on the Par- 
aguay, and it is the first on the right bank since leaving Santa Fe, 
twelve hundred and eighty miles below. In all that extent of 
country, though habitable, fertile, and salubrious, we have not seen 
one white soul. The entire province of Matto Grosso is divided 
into three military districts, embracing fourteen commands — Matto 
Grosso, Santa Maria, and Baxo — Paraguay. This last includes that 
portion of the empire into which our expedition entered. I called 
on the commandante, who received me in a small room with no 
superfluous furniture; for we must remember that Coimbra at that 
time could only be approached from Rio de Janeiro by Cuyaba, a 
distance of twelve hundred miles land travel and five hundred of 
river navigation ; the land journey is over mountains, their passes 
in many places accessible only to mules. I should have been as- 



180 COIMBRA. 

tonished to find here an officer of such, intelligence and polished 
manners had I not learned that the " commands" of this rich fron- 
tier province are posts of distinction, for with the military duties 
are united high civil functions. The commandante said that he had 
been charged by his government to afford me all possible facilities 
in forwarding the objects of the expedition, but that, for reasons al- 
ready given by the Minister of Foreign Affairs to the United States 
Minister, I could not ascend above Corumba, a military station one 
hundred and twenty miles beyond Coimbra. 

It was a slight extension of "my limits," which had first been 
fixed at Albuquerque. This officer was enthusiastic in dwelling 
upon the progress of the exploration, "fruitful," he said, "with glo- 
rious results, and worthy of commemoration by a marble pillar. 
The little Water Witch," he added, " would live in the memory of 
the Brazilians." 

While flattering us with these expressions, he frankly and un- 
reservedly regretted that any limit should have been placed to our 
exploration. A steamer was a familiar sight to these Brazilians ; 
the novelty was to see one at Coimbra. In visiting us, the com- 
mandante, as a military man, was particularly interested in the ex- 
amination of our little armament, consisting of three howitzers. 
"They were," he said, "perfect pieces of ordnance of their class, 
and admirable for the field operations of his frontier position." 

Coimbra, in latitude 19° 55' 43", longitude 57° 52' 32", stands 
on a spur of a mountain of the same name, which here slopes to 
the river, rising not more than forty feet above it at the point upon 
which is placed the fort, a solid stone structure, which could, with 
some few additions, be made a place of great strength. It mounts 
six guns, long twelve-pounders, most of them of brass, and very 
fine pieces. They completely command the channel of the river, 
which is here one third of a mile wide. Vessels in passing are 
within point-blank shot. The interior of the fort was in admira- 
ble order, and great improvements were contemplated, some of 
which were in progress. Within the walls were small stone houses 
thatched with straw, the quarters of the commandante, three offi- 
cers, and a part of the garrison ; the remainder live without the 
walls, where are fixed the families of some of the soldiers. Madame 
Peixoto de Azevido had given up all the comforts and luxury of 
a life in the capital to share this frontier home with her husband. 

All supplies are obtained from Albuquerque or the neighboring 
Indians. The mountains and pampa adjacent afford little scope 



THE CACIQUE OF THE GUAYCURUS. 181 

for cultivation or grazing, the latter not being exempt from in- 
undation, while the former offers little arable land. The new 
commandante had not been here long enough to carry out his con- 
templated improvements, which embrace gardens, as well as addi- 
tional military defenses, by placing guns upon the heights of the 
sierra, commanding the fort in the rear. The low lands, for some 
distance above Coimbra, are subject to inundation; but, at the 
same time, there are reaches of firm land, covered with excellent 
woods, and never overflowed except in seasons of extraordinary 
rise. 

The mountains are still insulated peaks or short ranges, proba- 
bly spurs of the Bolivian sierras, which extend through Chiquitos. 

As at Pan de Azucar, so likewise at Coimbra, two insulated 
hills face each other on opposite sides of the Paraguay ; that on 
the west we ascertained to rise four hundred and fifty feet above 
the level of the water, its formation being ■ of lime and sandstone, 
with moss -like impressions resembling arborescent marble, of 
which we got some very pretty specimens. 

The temperature on the 28th of November was, at 6 P.M., air 
81°, water 88°. 

The neighboring Chaco is here occupied by the warlike Guay- 
curus. While the attitude of Paraguay toward her wild neighbors 
has been one of hostility or non-intercourse, that of Brazil is now, 
and always has been, conciliatory. The great cacique of the 
Guaycurus, Tacalaguana, holds a commission from the Imperial 
Government as an officer of rank, and receives frequent presents 
for himself and tribe. He is always treated with marked civility 
and distinction by the commanders of this frontier province. His 
manner, not only to his own people, but in all intercourse with 
strangers, is lofty and exacting ; he receives no present, not even 
a cigar, except from the hands of an attendant, and in return 
makes no sort of acknowledgment, considering his acceptance of 
the offering a favor and condescension. The wisdom of the Bra- 
zilian policy toward these Indians is apparent ; it enables her to 
maintain upon her frontier a formidable force at little or no ex- 
pense. 

After placing a current-gauge, to mark the fall of water per 
day until our return, we were again under way. The commander 
accompanied us for a short distance, and returned in his canoe. 
It had been the intention of Madame de Azevido and himself to 
accept my invitation of a passage to Albuquerque, but her illness 



182 THE CUKALO TODO. 

deprived us of this pleasure. At a short distance above Coimbra 
we passed a huge canoe floating down lazily with the current, 
and filled with what looked like an emigrating host. It was a 
party of Brazilians bound for the salinas. As we passed them 
the men rested upon their oars, and all gazed as if lost in aston- 
ishment at the appearance of our little steamer in these distant 
waters. 



CHAPTER XL 



The MoroDorito. — Curalo Todo. — Tea, Coffee, and Milk. — Position of Anchorage 
off Albuquerque. — The Miranda. — The Tacuary. — Azara's Maps. — The Cam- 
barasa. — The Paraguay Mini. — Corumba. — The Guatambu. — Hunting the Ja- 
guar. — Fruits. — Return to Albuquerque. — Village of Mbayas. — An Indian Mis- 
sion. — Rice and Cotton. — Schools. — The Padre. — A Dance. — Missionary Effort. 
— The Jesuits. — The Dinner on board the Water Witch. — Trade of Cuyaba. — 
Bolivian Refugees. — The Grotto Inferno. — Capture of a Sentinel. — Fate of the 
Refugees. — Birds. — The Jaguar. — Its Ferocity. — Lenguas Indians. — The Com- 
mandante wears a long Face.— The Yellow Parrot. — Anchored off Asuncion. — 
A Storm brewing. 

" November 29th. Under way. After passing the Moro Dorito, 
a round wooded hill on the left bank, about two and a half miles 
above our last anchorage, the lands on that side are low, while 
opposite, short ranges or isolated peaks, alternating with plains of 
grass, are continuous. The most elevated and remarkable in ap- 
pearance of these mountains is the Sierra Consello, twenty-two 
miles above the Coimbra. It rises near the river bank, fifteen 
hundred feet above the level of the water, and is covered with 
fine timber. The country on the left is higher than that between 
Olimpo and Coimbra, but is not entirely exempt from inundation 
at the greatest rise of the river. Many points, however, are well 
wooded. 

" Thirty-five miles above Coimbra, on the left, a lovely grove of 
the aguaraibay, familiarly known in the country 'as Curalo todo* 



or Para todo. 11 



This tree abounds in the neighborhood of the Uruguay mis- 
sions, and from its leaves, gathered at any season, but usually 
when the tree is in flower, is extracted, by boiling, a sirup known 
as the "Balm de Aguaraibay," or "Balm of the Missions." Be- 
fore the revolution, each Indian village was obliged to furnish 
two pounds of this balm annually to the royal pharmaceutist at 

* Universal remedy. 



COFFEE AND MILK. 183 

Madrid. The medicinal properties of the leaf of the para todo 
were first made known by a Hungarian Jesuit, Sigismund Asper- 
ger, who spent forty years among the missions of La Plata, and 
died after the expulsion of his order, at the advanced age of one 
hundred and twelve years.* Asperger, who had in early life been 
a physician, was indefatigable in botanic research, and an accom- 
plished pharmacologist. He left a manuscript of medical recipes 
and examples of acute cases which he had successfully treated 
with medicines prepared from the indigenous vegetation of the 
country. Several curanderos — the only physicians of Paraguay, 
have copies of this valuable manuscript. 

"Least depth of water to-day (fifteen feet) since leaving Pan de 
Azucar. Anchored before sundown off Albuquerque ; saw near 
the river only two huts, for the town is three miles inland, at the 
foot of a sierra of the same name. As the water is falling, I have 
determined to push on to Corumba, and visit the authorities of 
Albuquerque when I return. Strolling along the banks before 
dark, we saw at a short distance a rancho, and near it a corral 
rilled with cattle, the first seen since leaving the frontier guardia 
of Paraguay. Endeavored to procure some milk, a luxury not 
appreciated by the people of this river country ; indeed, it is nev- 
er used by the Argentinos or Paraguayans except with hominy." 

In moving from one nation to another, bordering on the same 
great water-course, it is curious to observe how circumstances, 
habit, and local influences make certain articles essentials of life. 
We have left behind us the region of mate, and here, on the very 
confines of Brazil, far from her coffee districts, the decoction of 
this berry is the favorite drink of all who can procure it. We 
got our milk fresh from the cow, procured a novel and primitive 
vessel in which to carry it to the steamer, and on that evening 
feasted with tea, coffee, and milk. 

" Temperature of air at six P.M., 81° ; water, 88° ; maximum, 
meridian, 90° ; minimum, midnight, 76°. Position of anchorage 
off Albuquerque, latitude 19° 26' 53" south, longitude 57° 28' 51" 
west ; distance from Coimbra forty-seven miles. Put up a gauge 
to ascertain the fall of the water during our absence. 

" November 30th, 1853. At an early hour this morning under 
way. Four miles above our last anchorage, the Eiver Miranda, 
or, as it is marked on Azara's map, Mbotetey, empties into the 
Paraguay on the east by two mouths : one only, the lowest, is 

* Azara. 



184 MAPS.— MALO PASO. 

navigable. It rises in the Cordillera San Jose, a range which, 
under various names, extends through many degrees north and 
south, and is the watershed for ( several of the western tributaries 
of the Parana and the eastern tributaries of the Paraguay. The 
Miranda is, I am told, navigable to a town of the same name, one 
hundred and sixty miles in the interior ; but as the Paraguay is 
falling rapidly, and I do not wish to be caught here, a fixture for 
some months, I can not spare the time for its examination. 

" To the right the sierras are continuous, extending west be- 
yond the horizon : they are, without doubt, part of the Bolivian 
range of San Pantaleon. Six miles above the Miranda is the mouth 
of another eastern tributary, the Tacuary, which also rises in the 
Cordillera of San Jose. I can not at this time explore these trib- 
utaries, and find it difficult to obtain any reliable information of 
their characteristics. Even upon the Paraguay we find in this 
vicinage but one settlement of the white race> an estancia belong- 
ing to a gentleman of Albuquerque, about six miles above the 
mouth of the Tacuary : it is well stocked with cattle." 

On the east, back to the Cordillera of San Jose, is a fine rolling 
country, marked on several maps as the Lake of Xarayes. This is 
a geographical error, but not greater than many I have had occa- 
sion to remark, in the course of my professional experience, in 
various parts of the world, and this, too, in an age when the per- 
fection of instruments leaves no excuse for inaccuracy. There 
are no indications here of a lake. The land is low, and doubtless 
not exempt from inundation at the season of high water. The 
growth on the banks is shrubby, but back, and immediately ad- 
jacent, is a dense forest, which looks as if it might be the growth 
of ages. 

In alluding to received errors in the geography of this country, 
I must except the maps of Azara. His latitudes are remarkably 
correct, and his longitudes are as much so as we have a right to 
expect, when we remember the period at which he worked, and 
the perfection which three quarters of a century of improvement 
has given to the construction of instruments. On his map the 
southern border of this lake is fixed at 18°. 

"November SOth. Twenty-one miles above Albuquerque. Anoth- 
er m ah paso. It really offers no obstacle to a continuous naviga- 
tion of the Paraguay, but there is a shoal extending from the right 
bank, and rocks on the left, which contract the width of the chan- 
nel, and reduce its depth to twelve feet, when it still has seven to 



SADDLE-SHAPED MOUNTAIN. 



185 



fall. This pass is called Cambarasa, from a beautiful grove on the 
left bank. The cambarasa is one of the finest trees of this lati- 
tude ; the trunk, without limbs, rises to the height of about forty 
feet ; it then shoots out a multitude of branches covered with rich 
dark foliage, the whole forming an umbrella-shaped crowning. 

a Three miles above, on the opposite side, a mountain range ap- 
proaches the river, and from its base, extending quite down to the 
water, is a fine growth of lapacho. Two miles above this, on the 
east, is the mouth of the Omigara, said to be only a branch of the 
Tacuary. Beyond, on the same side, begins an extensive and 
beautiful forest of cambarasa, distant from the river, at different 
points, from one quarter to two miles. 

"Have advanced some distance, and observe, eight miles in- 
land, a saddle-shaped mountain, here represented in the sketch ; it 




SADDLE-SHAPED .MOUNTAIN. 



slopes gradually in rounded hills and rolling wooded lands to the 
west bank of the Paraguay, and is one of a broken range extend- 
ing northward for forty miles from Albuquerque. On the east is 
a similar wooded range, broken by plains and perpendicular sec- 
tions of a rocky formation. This mingling of mountain, forest, 
plain, and rock is inexpressibly beautiful. 



186 ASCENT TO CORUMBA. 

"The Paraguay Mini — Little Paraguay, here empties into the 
main river. It is said to shorten, by thirty miles, the ascension to 
Cuyaba, but has less depth than the main river. 

" Fifty -five miles above Albuquerque. For the first time an 
appearance of a lake upon the east. It is a narrow, shallow strip 
of water, running parallel with the river, and there is a mountain 
about two miles in the interior, with a low plain between it and 
this lagoon. As we approach Corumba, the country presents the 
appearance of a beautiful and recently -mown meadow, bounded 
by wooded mountains, artificially terraced to the plain. The si- 
lence and solitude is that of a desert. Not a sign of human fife, 
not a vestige or germ of civilization, except our little craft; she 
puffs over the waters ; at her peak the "stars and stripes" are spread 
"by a gentle southern breeze. We are opening, I sanguinely hope, 
a new path to commerce and civilization. 

" In sight of the little settlement of Corumba. As we approach 
we find the passage of the river intricate ;■ as little as ten feet wa- 
ter. "We have on board several men sent by the commandante to 
pilot us up. There is a vast deal of disputing in Spanish, Portu- 
guese, and Gruarani, evidently a diversity of opinion, creating 
such confusion that the Water Witch has narrowly escaped being 
run ashore. 

"Minimum temperature at 3 A.M., 75°, wind KK¥. Maxi- 
mum, 3 P.M., 91.5°, wind south. Width of river, six hundred 
yards ; depth, fifteen feet. 

"We have now reached the utmost limit to which Brazil will 
permit us to ascend." 

Permission was subsequently given for the expedition to ex- 
tend its operations throughout the Brazilian affluents of La Plata, 
a result I confidently expected from the well-known intelli- 
gence and enlightened spirit of the Emperor, notwithstanding the 
first refusal. 

This conviction did not lessen my regret at being obliged to 
abide by the decision of the Imperial Government. A few days 
would have taken us to Cuyaba. From that point I could have 
concluded the survey of the river to its source in a boat, and 
have sent the steamer so far down as to pass in time all shoal 
places. 

" The west banks here rise fifty or sixty feet to the level of a 
plain which stretches back to a range of wooded mountains. It 
has extended forests, with alternations of grass-land. The soil is 



CORUMBA. 



187 



undoubtedly fine, but, with the exception of one solitary estancia 
well-stocked with cattle, and yielding excellent crops of corn and 
mandioca, there is no attempt at culture in any direction. Aloes 
and cacti abound ; and in our walks through the country we rec- 
ognized woods seen several degrees south, such as the sabinata 
(soap-tree), pala bianco, etc. I procured sections of others not in- 
digenous to a lower latitude ; above all, the guatambu. This has 
the finest imaginable texture, is of a delicate straw color, receives 
a high polish, and would be, undoubtedly, in cabinet-work, the 
most precious of arboreal treasures. Gathered four varieties of 
edible fruits not before seen. 

" Shot two vampire-bats ; one was flying with young in its 
claws. Fine specimens of patos reales, a duck very like our do- 
mestic Muscovy, but far more delicate for table use, have been 
added to our collections." 

The station or village of Corumba is merely a collection of 
thatched huts forming two sides of a plaza, at one end of which is 
a chapel, distinguishable only by its cross from the humble tene- 




ments. A commander, fifteen soldiers, and about thirty women 
and children, apparently mixed breeds of whites, Indians, and ne- 



188 JAGUAK-HUNTING. 

groes, are the inhabitants of this place, which has the appearance 
of a forlorn settlement of squatters. 

The neighboring forests abound in jaguars, said to be equal in 
ferocity to the Bengal tiger. Having heard that the commander 
was a Nimrod, I proposed a hunt, to which he readily assented, 
and both time and place of meeting were arranged. We were 
punctual to our appointment, but by some mistake spearmen and 
dogs started before us ; as the latter failed to strike the trail of a 
beast, we lost nothing. The commandante showed us a fierce pack 
of dogs, with each one of which was associated some fearful story 
of hairbreadth escape. He gave us also a spirited account of his 
hunting adventures, always perilous where the jaguar is the ob- 
ject. He goes out armed with a double-barreled gun, and attend- 
ed by two spearmen or lanceros, each furnished with a long lance 
and knife. The lance is pointed with iron, and on either side, 
about fifteen inches from the end, is a projection of the same metal, 
forming a cross ; this is to keep the tiger at a safe distance as he 
receives a thrust ; for, if not wounded in some vital point — heart, 
head, or spine — he never falls or attempts to escape, but, infuriated, 
springs, with wonderful strength and the agility of a cat, at the 
hunter. The arm of the spearman must be strong and steady, and 
the second fire fatal, or the result of the battle is doubtful. On 
one occasion a powerful beast, enraged by a slight wound, in an 
incredibly short time laid eight dogs dead around him, and made 
a dash at the commander, who had ventured out without his lan- 
ceros, and only saved himself by a precipitate retreat. 

"December 2d. During the last forty-eight hours the river has 
fallen S\ inches. We gathered some wild fruits to-day while 
strolling through the woods near the settlement — the guacupari, 
pleasantly acid ; cacaXfc, manga^ba, cipata. 

"Albuquerque, December 3c?, 1853. Fearing to be caught in- the 
upper waters, I returned to Albuquerque, making the run in seven 
hours and a half ; on board, the Commandante of Corumba and 
his wife, who wished to visit this station. 

" Temperature of air at 6 o'clock A.M., 75° ; at three P.M., 92°; 
calm ; water, 89°, the highest temperature yet felt. In passing 
again the Paso Cambarasa, to which I have alluded, we inclined 
more to the right, and found deeper water, proving that in ascend- 
ing we were out of the channel." 
~ n I <^ Albuquerque takes its name from a mountain, evidently a de- 
tached range of the Sierra Dorado, known also to the Bolivians as 



/ 



ALBUQUEKQUE. 



189 



the Sierra Santa Lucia. It is the central and principal post on the 
Paraguay frontier, and is embraced in the command of Captain 
Peixoto de Azevido, whom we found here upon our arrival. On 
this occasion we visited the village, beautifully situated, about 
three miles from the river, amid a grove of tropical trees, which 
concealed it entirely from view as we approached. 







PLAZA OF ALBUQUERQUE. 



The whole aspect of the place was cheerful and pleasant ; it 
consisted of sixty or seventy adobe houses, built round a plaza, 
at one end of which, as usual, stood the chapel, with its white- 
washed gable and cross. In the centre of the square were several 
guns, and in the immediate vicinity a number of huts occupied 
by Guanos Indians, part of the agricultural tribe to which I have 
alluded in connection with the Mbayas. 

I accepted an invitation from our friend the commandante to 
breakfast with hrm, and spend the day in visiting the various In- 
dian settlements of the neighborhood. After an abundant repast, 
to which all the officers of the Water Witch and some of the prin- 
cipal personages of the village were asked, we called at two es- 
tablishments of Gruaycurus. They live in neat huts, and occupy 
themselves so successfully in cultivating the ground as to supply 
nearly all the vegetables used at Albuquerque, and many of those 
sent to Coimbra and Corumba. The following day we visited the 
"Missao da Nossa Senhora de bom Consuelho, no Baixo Para- 
guay," about eight miles from Albuquerque, which is still more 
interesting, as exhibiting the aptness of the Indian for civilization. 

The subjects of this mission are Gruanos, under the immediate 



190 MISSION OF OUR LADY OF GOOD COUNSEL. 

charge of a Franciscan friar, who labors zealously both, to Chris- 
tianize and improve their temporal condition. In witnessing the 
results so far, we were involuntarily impressed with respect for the 
religion and for the order. A few years past, these Indians, now 
forming a Christian community, were wandering among the wilds 
of the Chaco. 

Our ride extended through a fine rolling country, but we were 
scarcely prepared for the neatness, order, and cultivation imme- 
diately around the mission. One end of the large plaza was oc- 
cupied by the church and school-house, and on two sides were the 
dwellings of the Indians, merely thatched huts, but admirably con- 
structed for health and comfort in a tropical climate. Twenty feet- 
was the width allowed to each house, which, with a door at either 
end, and partitioned within by cotton curtains, had all the neces- 
sary advantage of privacy, with free circulation of air ; some sim- 
ple cooking utensils, two or three cots, and a raised platform on 
one side completed the interior arrangements. The platforms 
served during the day for tables or seats, and at night, where the 
family was large, as places of repose. 

To each house was attached a garden, where vegetables were 
grown ; but surrounding, and at some distance from the village, 
were plantations and fields of corn, sweet potatoes, mandioca, 
beans, rice, etc. In the lowlands of the vicinity, called Pantanos, 
is found a native rice, not so white as the Carolina grain, but nu- 
tritious, and excellent to the taste. It is regularly harvested by 
the Indians, who thrash the grain from the stalks into their canoes. 
Cotton of fine quality grows abundantly and spontaneously in the 
neighborhood. This the women spin with the distaff, color with 
dyes extracted from the barks of the neighboring forests, and 
weave into the fabrics which form the material of their simple gar- 
ments. These, for the females, are long chemises confined at the 
waist, and for the men, pantaloons and ponchos. 

Men and boys are trained for a few hours each day by a cor- 
poral in military exercises ; and in the school were about eighty 
pupils who had mastered not only the rudhnents of a common 
education, but made some progress in music and dancing. Their 
proficiency in music reminded me of the assertion of the Jesuits, 
who allude frequently, and with enthusiasm, to the genius of the 
Plata Indians for this beautiful art. All the performers in the 
band, with the exception of the leader and instructor, who is a 
Brazilian, were Indians. 



INDIAN MISSIONS. 191 

"We dined with the Padre, and found assembled quite a large 
party, several gentlemen of Albuquerque having been invited to 
meet us. The dinner was admirably cooked, and served by In- 
dian servants, and we had the pleasant enlivenment of excellent 
music from the band which was stationed before the house. The 
dinner was followed by another entertainment, one not anticipated 
in these wild regions, but, above all, at the good Padre's domicil. 
This was a dance. While chatting over our cigars, a number of 
men and women, neatly dressed, came with presents for " Padre's 
guests," and the young people of the mission assembled in an ad- 
joining room, where, without the least confusion or embarrass- 
ment, they arranged themselves into quadrilles, and danced with 
a spirit and grace that astonished us. 

When Captain Azevido proposed our joining them, the officers 
were quite ready, and, with the others, I soon found myself wind- 
ing through a quadrille with a handsome Chaco girl, who was 
much more at home in the figures than her partner. These young 
Indians were all well formed, and some of them really handsome, 
with countenances guileless and intelligent ; their manner, though 
subdued and gentle, was perfectly self-possessed. 

It was touching to see the love and veneration with which they 
all, old and young, seemed to regard the Padre. 

In our own country enormous and annually increasing sums 
are absorbed by foreign missions, but we hear little of extended 
and united efforts among Christian societies for the evangelization 
of the Indian. Acting upon the healthful maxim of "justice be- 
fore generosity," surely the first thought of our missionaries should 
be for the aboriginal inhabitants of this continent. Some of the 
forest tribes, driven from State to Territory, from our fertile Terri- 
tories to the wilds of the Rocky Mountains, are threatened with 
extirpation ; they have been the victims rather than the enemies 
of a rude border population, who have enriched themselves from 
annuities, the price of their birthright, and initiated the savages 
only into all the vices of civilization. 

The capacity of the American savage for a high civilization has 
never been fully demonstrated. Iso enlarged and well-digested 
policy has yet been essayed which accorded them spiritual instruc- 
tion, with political rights and personal freedom. Greatly as hu- 
manity and religion must ever deplore the hasty and forced aban- 
donment of the Plata missions by the Jesuits, admirable as was 
the secular administration of the fathers, and extraordinary as 



192 PEICES AT ALBUQUERQUE. 

was the proficiency of the Indians in many of the arts, their " Ke- 
ductions" were but religious communities, governed each by two 
or three feeble men. They were desolated by fierce marauders, 
disturbed by the interference of government officials, who pretend- 
ed to discern in them the germs of an independent empire, jeal- 
ously watched by ecclesiastics, and surrounded by a white popula- 
tion eager to enslave their neophytes. It is therefore no reproach 
to the labors of Jesuits that the condition of the Indian, to the last, 
was one of pupilage. And we can not wonder that when sudden- 
ly exposed to reactionary influences, separated from his paternal 
governors, and subjected to the capricious and jarring tyranny of 
civil and ecclesiastical rulers, he should have again sought the 
wild freedom of the forest. 

It was not only a pleasure, but a duty to return the hospitalities 
of our Brazilian friends, and this in the best manner that the limit- 
ed and nearly exhausted stores of the Water Witch would per- 
mit. Invitations were immediately given, limited only by our 
accommodations ; and if the table could not present a sumptuous 
bill of fare, it boasted a few bottles of good cheer, reserved for 
such occasions. " His Imperial Majesty," "the Stars and Stripes," 
"our glorious Union," and lastly, but enthusiastically, by our 
guests, "the Explorations of the Water Witch," were all subjects 
of toast. Sentiment and song, anecdote and tale of adventure, 
followed each other in quick succession. The western wilds of 
Brazil never before re-echoed the song and laughter of a merrier 
party, all natives of the American continent. 

To give some idea of the profits of trade to Cuyaba, I append 
the prices of certain articles at the time the Water Witch was in 
those waters. Salt sold at ten dollars the Brazilian arroba (thirty- 
two pounds), flour at fifteen dollars the arroba. The former is an 
essential of life, which never can be supplied from the natural re- 
sources of the country.* 

I purchased at Albuquerque, for the ship's company, brown, 
sugar at five and a half cents a pound. It was made in the neigh- 
borhood, and neatly moulded into blocks, each weighing one and 
a half pounds. The caterer of the mess bought refined white 
sugar, also made at Albuquerque, and moulded in the same form, 
for thirteen and a half cents. For coffee brought from Cuyaba 

* Mandioca is at present, in the north of La Plata, a substitute for bread, and, 
while traveling in the eastern wilds of Paraguay, I have eaten bread made from 
flour of the bitter mandioca equal to the finest wheaten loaves. 



BRAZILIAN REFUGEES. 193 

we paid twenty-seven cents per pound. It is said that planta- 
tions of coffee would succeed admirably in this region of the 
country, but the population is small, and the impossibility hereto- 
fore of finding a market has alone prevented its cultivation. The 
high price we paid arose from a temporary scarcity of the article 
at Albuquerque, and the unusual demand of a quantity for a for- 
eign ship's crew. 

The steamer was overrun with Indians bringing presents of pigs, 
poultry, sugar-cane, bananas, and vegetables, expecting in return, 
not money, but salt. The steward was not allowed to impose 
upon their ignorance, and when they received a pound in return 
for two chickens or a pig, they were amazed at our liberality. 
The supplies brought were greatly beyond our wants, and obliged 
us to decline them at last, giving all who came, however, a little 
salt. 

u The river has fallen within the last three days seven inches, 
as shown by the gauge. Temperature of air varying from 75° to 
96° ; that of the water, 89°. 

" December 7 th, 1853. When about to get under way for Coim- 
bra, with its commandante on board as our guest, we were ap- 
proached by a long, unwieldy open boat, containing four refugee 
Bolivian officers, who had brought letters from the Governor of 
Matto Grosso to Commandante Azevido. I released them from 
their confined position by offering them a passage to Coimbra, and 
took the boat in tow. They were making their way to Buenos 
Ayres, or some town in the Argentine Confederation, and could 
they have escaped over the southern borders of Bolivia, they 
might have reached Salta in five days ; but by that route capture 
was almost inevitable, and as they had taken a leading part in the 
late revolution, which had failed, they would have paid the pen- 
alty with their lives. There was but one road open to them 
— through the north to Cuyaba ; following this, they had traveled, 
when we met them, two thousand two hundred miles by land and 
river. 

" December 9th. Have just returned from a visit to the ' Grotto 
Inferno,' which is north of the fort, in the same range of hills, and 
about a mile and a half from the river." 

For the convenience of carrying instruments, hydrometer and 
barometer, and for securing any specimens to be found of an in- 
teresting character, we went in boats, which made the distance 
three miles. We could not approach within half a mile of the 

13 



194 THF GROTTO INFERNO. 

base of the hill with the boats, but, plunging through mud and 
water, we at last stood at the entrance of the grotto — a fissure or 
mouth in the limestone barely wide enough to creep in. 

The general inclination in the line of descent was about 30° 
from the perpendicular, with a shaft of sixty feet. Descending 
cautiously upon hands and feet, we reached the margin of a lake, 
and found ourselves in a magnificent irregularly shaped hall, em- 
bracing an area of about two thousand feet. Its roof, varying 
from twenty to forty feet in height, rested on columns, symmetrical 
and grand, as if designed and placed there by accomplished archi- 
tects and skillful workmen. Between the columns were stalag- 
mites, rising in the form of pillars, four, five, and six feet in height, 
standing at regular distances, like sentinels suddenly transformed 
into stone ; the stalactical depositions were of the most beautiful 
and fantastic forms ; and as the crystallized surfaces of sides, roof, 
and pillars reflected the blue lights and torches of our men, they 
glittered and shone with all the brilliancy and varied hues of 
gems. What ages must have elapsed while the great work had 
been going on for the meeting, drop by drop, of ascending and 
descending points, until those stupendous columns were formed ! 
Ours was a noisy party, but in the momentary intervals of silence 
we heard the unceasing drip. 

Entrances, half concealed below the water, led to lateral branch- 
es, which we did not attempt to explore. Our men bathed in the 
sweet, limpid water of the lake, which had a depth of eighteen 
feet ; temperature above the standard of our hydrometer, 75° 05 ', 
while that of the air was 80° ; the latter, however, undoubtedly 
increased by the heat of the torches and the number of our party. 
The commandante assured me that this lake rises and falls with 
the periodical variations of the Paraguay. "We toasted the divin- 
ities of the spot, until, warned by the waning lights, we gathered 
up specimens, and began a scramble for the mouth of the grotto. 

It was an undertaking, with the encumbrance of a few stalac- 
tites ; but the commander, having heard me express a desire to car- 
ry off one of the " sentinels," had assigned to his men what seemed 
an impracticable task with the means at hand — that of raising one 
of those stalagmites to the mouth of the grotto. The feat was ac- 
complished in safety ; and the column, weighing two hundred and 
fifty pounds, was carried in triumph to the Water Witch. 

One of the Bolivian officers accompanied us in quite an elegant 
toilet, embracing a pair of patent-leather boots. Such parts of 



DEPARTURE FROM COIMBRA. 195 

these as stood by him after the descent and ascent 01 the grotto 
were totally " used up" in the tramp to the boat. Misfortune and 
companionship in the wilderness had made us intimate. His woe- 
ful appearance was a fruitful subject of merriment and jest, which 
he bore with such philosophy and good-humor as to join heartily 
in the laugh against himself. 

From barometric measurement, the highest point of the ridge 
overlooking the fort was four hundred and fifty-one feet above the 
level of the river. The temperature ranged from 75° to 93° ; by 
gauge, water fell 2.4 inches per day. 

When about to leave Coimbra, I received a letter from General 
Grregorio Perez, Colonel Hilarion Ortiz, Lieutenant Colonel Ysi- 
doro Eeyes, and Doctor Antonio Zaveo, the four Bolivian officers, 
asking a passage in the Water Witch to Asuncion. It was a 
pleasure to accede to this request, for their position was truly for- 
lorn ; but in doing so, I asked the general to report their presence 
at the first Paraguayan town. In Francia's time they would in- 
evitably have been detained, but under the present government 
the result was what I anticipated ; they were stopped at Salvador 
until the President could be notified of their arrival, but were 
eventually permitted to leave the country, and went down to 
Buenos Ayres in the Water Witch when she descended for sup- 
plies.* 

On the 11th of December, we parted, with regret, from our friend 
the kind and gentlemanly Commandante of Coimbra, but with 
the hope of seeing him again when we return in a small steamer 
to complete the exploration of the upper waters. He presented 
us with a half-grown jaguar, and several rare birds ; one, the 
" Motu" — of the pheasant family, about the size of a small turkey 
— female brown, with brown and white crest; male black, with 
black crest — is easily domesticated, and delicious for the table ; it 
may prove a valuable acquisition to our domestic fowls. The 
jaguar is fawn-colored, with dark spots encircled by a black ring, 
which, at a glance, distinguishes this animal from the leopard. 
In this specimen the marks are bright and well defined. 

These, with several interesting animals, were sent home ; some 
died on the passage, others after their arrival in the United States. 
The instructions of Mr. Kennedy gave me a hope that my contri- 
butions might form the nucleus of a national zoological collection, 
and I made such a suggestion to his successor, but it met with no 

* By the last revolution, September, 1857, this party is now in power. 



196 DESCENT OF THE RIVER. 

encouragement, as Congress had made no appropriation for such 
an object. The tiger is now alive at the farm of the Insane Asy- 
lum near Washington, and exhibits every evidence of untamed 
ferocity. 

On one occasion the Water Witch was visited by a lady, ac- 
companied by a lovely little girl. The jaguar was lying in her 
cage, quietly as usual when undisturbed or not hungry; but at 
the sight of this child she sprang up with a fury that startled 
us. Each time as the child passed and repassed we witnessed the 
same exhibition of ferocity. 

" Eeached the Salinas, to which I have alluded in ascending the 
river ; saw many Gruaycuru wigwams swarming with busy occu- 
pants, for this was the season for making salt. 

1 • Anchored, as the sun was setting in glorious majesty, amid a 
sea of crimson, gold, blue, rose. How gorgeous are these tropical 
sunsets, and how solemn, as all nature, with short interval, sinks 
into shadow of night ! 

" Many Gruaycurus came on board ; they had never seen a 
steamer, but manifested no astonishment. The women were of the 
ordinary stature ; men above it, with fine muscular development." 

"December 14dh. Anchored off Salvador." As I expected, the 
Bolivian officers were detained for instructions from Asuncion. 
"Met here a cacique, and some men of the Lengua tribe. I per- 
suaded the cacique and several of his companions to sit for then 
daguerreotypes. At the sight of them they showed both wonder 
and delight ; it is the first time that I have seen the La Plata In- 
dians exhibit an emotion." 

" Conception, December 15th. I have endeavored, but in vain, 
to procure horses for the officers and myself to visit the ' Yer- 
bales.' The commandante, in our ascent of the river, was all ci- 
vility ; now he wears a long face, and makes many excuses for not 
complying with my request. ' The horses,' he said, ' were away.' 
I extended the time for our excursion ; the commandante extend- 
ed the distance to which the horses had been sent. I am puzzled, 
but have been long enough in the country to know that the coun- 
tenances and deportment of officials reflect that of the government. 
Something is wrong. It would be less dangerous for the poor 
commandante to spend a few days among the Indians of the Chaco 
than to show us civility, if I have, however unintentionally, in- 
curred the displeasure of the 'great heart of Paraguay ;' for that 
influence penetrates every artery of the body politic. 



SOMETHING WRONG. 



197 




^=C 



LENGUA. INDIANS AT SALVADOR. 



" It is astonisliing witli what rapidity the commands and wishes 
of government are here transmitted to every part of the republic. 
From guardia to piqueta, from piqueta to guardia, these Para- 
guay couriers move with a rapidity that would rival the speed of 
an express locomotive. I have been more successful in procuring 
specimens than horses, and have added many fine birds to our 
collection. 

" The weather during the last few days has been intensely hot ; 
thermometer varying from 73° to 99° ; and this heat is neither de- 
bilitating nor oppressive, tempered as it is by constant breezes, 
south, southeast, southwest. Thermometer at 9 A.M., 93° ; wa- 
ter, 87°. 

" Anchored at one of our wooding points off the estancia of 
Senor Antonio Garcia. The Water Witch has been visited by 
his family, and many others of the neighborhood. One of the la- 
dies brought with her a yellow parrot. It is known that the In- 
dians of Paraguay have sometimes succeeded in changing the col- 
or of the parrot by plucking the feathers of the young bird, and 
pressing into the pores a fluid, which imparts its hue to the new 
plumage; but senora assured me that hers was a genuine and 



198 ASUNCION.— A STORM BREWING. 

rare species ; so rare that she knew of but one other in all the 
country. The bird was blind, and had been so for twelve years. 
I was anxious to procure a specimen, but no money could pur- 
chase this. It is true, the lady presented it to me. I, however, 
fortunately understood that it was a Spanish offer, and declined it. 

" At one or two of the bad passes we have discovered that our 
descent was well-timed. The water has fallen four and a half feet 
since our upward passage, and yet there is sufficient depth for a 
vessel of nine feet draught. Four feet more, and the river will 
have reached its minimum. It is subject in the month of January 
to a partial rise, similar to the Bepunte of the Parana, which oc- 
curs in November, and is equal to five or six feet. While at 
Asuncion in January, 1854, between the 12th and 21st of the 
month, it rose eleven inches, continuing from that time to Febru- 
ary to decrease, as previously shown. 

" December 20th, 1853. Anchored off Asuncion ; visited almost 
immediately by the port captain, whose countenance, like that of 
the Governor of Concepcion, is ominous of a brewing storm. 
What can it be?" 



CHAPTEE XII. 



The Captain of the Port. — Momentous Question. — A Call at the Government 
House. — The Secretary of State. — Visit to the President. — The Anniversary of 
Paraguayan Independence. — Minor Explorations. — Congress of 1812. — The 
Consuls. — Francia. — Provisional Junta. — Another Congress. — President Lo- 
pez. — The Constitution. — Ignorance of the People. — Society. — Senoritas and 
Flowers. — Paraguay Tobacco and Smokers. — The Siesta. — Another Call upon 
the President. — The Vaquerano. — A Tour into Paraguay. — SenorDon Jaimi Cor- 
vallan. — Periju. — Senora Dalmacia. — Villa Rica. — Don Louis Homan. — The 
Tebiquari. — The Recado. — Puesta del Estado de Jesus Maria. — The Dinner. — 
The Peripo. — Mr. Francis "Wisner. — Seiior Sergente Lopez. — Senora Clara. — 
Manufacture of Cigars. — The Taquari. — Fertility of the Country. — Medical Men. 
— Healthful Climate. — Puebla Carmen. — Don Mariana. — The Yun. — El Secre- 
tario. — Ytapua. 

The captain of the port is an important personage at Asuncion ; 
he not only notes all arrivals and departures by water, but is a 
confidential friend of the President. His every look and act are 
watched by the Paraguayans as reflecting that of his Excellency. 
I found him, on my return, not wanting in official courtesy, but 
depressingly solemn. At last he asked a great and momentous 
question. 



A MOMENTOUS QUESTION. 199 

" How far did you go ?" 

"I ascended to Corumba in Brazil.'' 

" Then you went beyond the limits of Paraguay?" 

Here was a key to the mystery. I now understood why all the 
horses of Concepcion had so suddenly disappeared ; why the good 
commandante, so zealously anxious to serve us in ascending, was 
so officially cold in descending. 

I have alluded to the celerity with which intelligence is trans- 
mitted through Paraguay, by means of guardias and piquetes. 
The port captain knew very well that the expedition had entered 
the Brazilian waters, and I understood that, in questioning me as 
to the extent of our explorations, he only acted under instructions, 
and that my answer would be duly reported. 

I said, " having completed the survey of the river throughout 
Paraguayan territory, and finding that we were on the borders of 
Brazil, I availed myself of the imperial permission, and ascended 
to Corumba. It is true, that in my interviews and conversations 
with the President on this subject, he raised objections to my going 
beyond the limits of Paraguay, but I always combated them, and 
as this official letter was sent after my last conversation with him, 
I concluded from its tenor that he had yielded the point. I know 
that his Excellency will be gratified at the result of my work, for 
I can give him information as to neighboring territories which he- 
has never before received. " I then showed the official the Presi- 
dent's letter. He looked disturbed, and bade me adios. 

I called as soon as possible at the government house. The offi- 
cer in attendance announced my visit, but returned immediately, 
saying, 

" His Excellency is too unwell to receive you, but requests that 
you will call on the Secretary of State." 

" Express to his Excellency my regret at his indisposition, and 
say that I have no official business with the Secretary of State ; 
but I will call on him." 

The Secretary of State was profoundly polite, but as solemn as 
if under condemnation to be shot for treason. 

"He hoped that I had enjoyed the ftip." The secretary was 
disposed to regard it as a pleasure excursion. 

I replied, "I have received pleasure from the exploration of 
the river beyond Asuncion, and much of this pleasure arises from 
a knowledge of the success of the work so far ; for this success I 
owe much to the liberality of the Paraguayan government, and 



200 JNTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT LOPEZ. 

avail myself of this occasion to express my thanks for the hospi- 
tality and official consideration with which we have been received 
at every point upon the river. I regret that the indisposition of 
his Excellency the President, obliges me to wait for the pleasure 
of expressing to him my gratitude." 

The secretary relaxed somewhat from the rigidity of counte- 
nance and manner which he had maintained since my entrance. 
At this propitious moment I rose and said " good-morning." 

I understood now the whole question; in entering Brazilian 
territory I had touched the dignity of the republic, periled its 
peace, and it was considered necessary to make me aware of this. 

After the lapse of a day or two the President's recovery was in- 
timated to me, and I called at the government house, was admit- 
ted, and found his Excellency seated as usual at the circular table, 
The conversation soon turned upon the extent of our explorations, 
when his Excellency became excited. One would have supposed 
that I had let " Los Portugases" — as he called the Brazilians — in 
upon him. 

He "knew," he said, "that the imperial government would de- 
mand the privilege accorded to the United States expedition." 

I said, " I think your Excellency takes a mistaken view of the 
question. Our explorations can not be assumed as a precedent to 
do more than the expedition has aimed to accomplish, and if Bra- 
zil should demand the same privilege it would be absurd. The 
surveys of the river have been carefully made. The results will 
be published, and the imperial government will receive the same 
benefit that any other might expect." 

I reminded him of our last conversation on the subject, also of 
his official letter, which I regarded as an abandonment of all ob- 
jections to my ascending as far as I could, and then said, 

" I am happy now to present your Excellency with a sketch of 
the river, throughout the limits of Paraguay, of perhaps far great- 
er accuracy than any thing you have before seen." 

He assured me repeatedly, during this visit, of his high consid- 
eration for me officially and personally ; and from this time my re- 
lations with him, until agSin disturbed, were of a far more friendly 
and* confidential character than they had previously been. A few 
da}^s later I had an interview with him on some other business ; 
he adverted playfully to the subject of our difficulty, and said, 
"We are now as good friends as ever." 

The 25th of December is the anniversary of Paraguayan inde- 



ANNIVERSARY OF INDEPENDENCE. , 201 

pendence, and is therefore, in that country, both a political and 
religious festival. Accompanied by some of the officers of the 
Water Witch, I called to pay my respects to the President, who 
was, as usual, before the circular table, and in full uniform. He 
requested us to be seated on his right ; and we took possession of 
one of the rows of chairs, to which I have previously alluded as 
being always stationary. Opposite, on a corresponding row, were 
seated some Paraguayans. All was solemn and still. I ventured 
to break the silence by congratulating his Excellency upon the 
prosperity and peace of Paraguay. In reply he referred, in com- 
plimentary terms, to the United States, to their rapid advance- 
ment, and their prominent position among the powers of the earth. 
Neither on this or any similar occasion did I observe the presence 
of ladies ; strong-minded women have then here both political and 
social wrongs. 

The wheels of the Water Witch had become so much damaged, 
that it was necessary to make some temporary repairs before she 
could attempt the passage to Montevideo for provisions, and a 
more thorough overhauling. When ready she was dispatched 
with such officers as were absolutely necessary, while others were 
detailed for various duties of the work in Paraguay. 

The small steamer was now completed, and assigned to Lieu- 
tenant Murdaugh, who was to explore a river which was said to 
flow from the Chaco into the Paraguay, sixty miles from Asuncion. 
Finding no such stream he entered an arm of the Paraguay, some 
distance above ; ascended it for fifteen miles, and discovered that 
it there terminated in grass and camelotes, having no current to 
indicate it being a river. This was doubtless the supposed tribu- 
tary, and is but another evidence of the prevailing ignorance of 
the geography of the opposite territory, even in the vicinity of the 
capital. 

To obtain some information as to the resources and cultivation 
of this country, I determined to go into the interior ; following a 
•route that would lead through the most populous districts, and to 
some of the old settlements of the Jesuits, among them Ytapua, 
now called Encarnacion — from which point, north, the Parana 
forms the eastern boundary of the republic. While engaged in 
preparation for these new movements of the expedition I had 
again an opportunity of seeing something of the capital, the cen- 
tre of trade, politics, and social life. Its population is estimated 
at from ten to twenty thousand — certainly a wide difference in 



202 



GASPAR FRANCIA. 



numbers ; but, from the absence of statistical information, or rath- 
er from the objection to making any thing known to strangers, a 
foreigner is left very much to the result of his own observations. 
I should say that it contains about twelve thousand inhabitants. 
The non-intercourse policy of Francia and Eosas has operated here 
as banefully as in many other towns of La Plata. With no motive 
for exertion, the habit is lost, and yet I found the Paraguayans 
quick to avail themselves of the information and intelligence of 
others. 




GASPAR FRANCIA. 



The independence of this country was acknowledged by Buenos 
Ayres in 1811 ; a Congress assembled in 1812, and confided the 
administration of affairs to two consuls, Yegros and Francia. 
Yegros possessed some military talent, but was idle and illiterate. 
He left the management of affairs entirely in the hands of Francia, 
who regulated the finances, the military, and the administration 
of justice with so much address, filling every public place with his 



POLICY OF FRANCIA. 203 

own creatures, that, in 1814, he succeeded in having himself 
named as dictator for three years, and at the expiration of that 
time for life. He was intended for the Church, and graduated at 
the University of Cordova ; but, having more taste for jurispru- 
dence than for theology, he took the degree of Doctor of Laws, in 
which profession he attained both popularity and distinction. 
Providence granted him a long life. He was fifty when he was 
made supreme ruler of Paraguay, and had, by some years, passed 
the period assigned to man when' death closed his career.* The 
iniquity of his rule was progressive, and his apologists — for even 
Francia has found them — declare that, as a lawyer, and during the 
first years of his dictatorship, he displayed integrity and generous 
traits ; that the excessive severity of his character was developed 
by, or was the consequence of the conspiracies that constantly 
menaced his political power. It is almost impossible to arrive at 
the ruling principle of his action, or even to obtain reliable infor- 
mation as to the acts of the later years of his dictatorship. No 
records were kept, and all orders were returned to him, with " ex- 
ecuted" marked on the margin, and were then destroyed. "We 
can only believe that cunning, not principle, restrained his de- 
signs, until the habit of submission on the part of the Paraguay- 
ans was fixed. 

It was his favorite maxim that " liberty should be proportioned 
to civilization, and that the exercise of it was prejudicial where 
not demanded as a public necessity." The doctrine of non-inter- 
course was adopted, he declared, to save Paraguay from the 
anarchy that decimated the population of other parts of La Plata, 
and from the ambitious designs of Buenos Ayres, who sought to 
exercise a dominating influence over the whole basin. 

Ytapua on the Parana, and Nembucu on the Paraguay, were 
open to trade, or rather to change of commodities, by special li- 
cense, Francia being the principal, or, in fact, the only merchant. 
When he needed foreign articles, a permit was sent to Corrientes 
for a vessel to enter Nembucu. An invoice of the cargo was for- 
warded to him, upon which he placed his own valuation; and 
payment was made in yerba, an article in such demand in the 
lower provinces that the people were glad to get it upon any terms. 

After his death, which occurred on December 25th, 1840, a 
Provisional Junta was appointed to administer the government 

* After his death there was found among his papers a list of fifty persons to be 
executed. 



204 RISE OF LOPEZ. 

until a Congress could be convoked. At the end of four months, 
finding the members of this body indisposed to yield up the au- 
thority confided to them, the people rose, went to the government 
house, and forced them to resign. At the end of eighteen days 
an extraordinary Congress of four hundred members was assem- 
bled, and the administration of affairs was confided to two con- 
suls, Carlo Antonio Lopez and Marianna Eoque Alonzo. The 
new magistrates entered upon the exercise of their functions in 
May, 1841 ; the first with a salary of four thousand dollars per 
annum, the second with three thousand. In 1844, Congress hav- 
ing decided that the consular government should be replaced by 
a president as chief magistrate, Senor Lopez was elected for ten 
years, and installed March 13th, 1845, with a salary of $8000 per 
annum. There was no provision limiting the re-election of the 
same individual. Consequently, in 1854, he was again chosen for 
another term. The age of the candidate, before fixed at forty-five, 
was changed to thirty -three ; a move made, it is supposed, by the 
President by way of securing the succession for his eldest son, 
General Lopez. 

Paraguay had a Constitution when Francia was made dictator. 
She has one now, perhaps, for I could learn nothing officially. 
But that avails nothing. The Constitution is interpreted ; the ju- 
diciary, elections, and congresses are alike controlled by the Pres- 
ident, who governs with an authority as unquestioned as if he 
were supreme Dictator. The commandantes of each jurisdiction 
are appointed by him. These officers, in turn, nominate the dele- 
gates for Congress, allowing a certain representation to each par- 
tido ; and the Congress chooses the President, who is thus elected 
per se. 

There are few in this country who comprehend the first princi- 
ples of civil liberty. Pitilessly, and with wonderful astuteness, 
Francia first debilitated the organic springs of their political sys- 
tem, feeble at best, and eventually destroyed its strength and 
life. So far as I could learn, the administration of President Lo- 
pez is unstained by crime; but there is no opposition to his au- 
thority ; there are no political conspiracies to test the temper or 
integrity of his rule. An unquestioning and timorous submission 
to his decrees, a reverential awe and demeanor in his presence, are 
observed by all, however high their official or social position. 
Paraguay has no precedent, historic or traditional, on which to 
base a more enlightened government ; and her chief magistrate. 



•a 



POLICY OF LOPEZ. 205 

though, a man of natural abilities and some education, loves pow- 
er, and is war y and unscrupulous in the exercise of it. He talks 
much of "the Kepublic," and of his desire to improve the condition 
of the people; but he needs the experience which must come from 
friction with foreign governments, the instruction of rebuke, and 
the bold unselfish energy of Urquiza, to become an enlightened 
ruler. He has made some effort for the establishment of schools, 
at least in Asuncion ; but it is a favorite theory with him that a 
sudden or rapid transition from the present primitive state of the 
Paraguayans would operate unfavorably to the harmony of the 
government and the peace of the Eepublic. He gives them a 
little learning cautiously and slowly. 

The better class of society in Asuncion consists of a few families 
of Spanish origin, among whom there are not many individuals 
who could meet, according to our ideas, a good educational stand- 
ard, though the men possess a vast deal of suaviter in modo, and 
the women are graceful and talk amazingly well. They have 
much talent for narration, and will give jaguar and Indian stories 
with infinite spirit. 

Madam Lopez resided at a quinta, about six miles from the 
town. The distance afforded a pleasant ride, and we were always 
kindly received by the senora and her fair daughters, who have 
all the ease of manner and tact which is so attractive in the Span- 
ish-American women. In the half dozen families of the city that 
formed the circle of our acquaintance we were always hospitably 
received, and with several of them our social intercourse was truly 
agreeable. Foreign articles of female attire are replacing the prim- 
itive fabrics, which the arbitrary decrees of Francia obliged all to 
use. The laces of France and Belgium are superseding the elab- 
orate domestic cotton productions of earlier days, which are now 
only used as trimmings for bed furniture, or are bought by for- 
eigners as curious specimens of female handicraft. In the houses 
of the wealthy, at Asuncion, the house-linen is tastefully decorated 
with these domestic laces. 

At the capital, and indeed at all the river towns of La Plata, a 
pretty custom prevails among the senoritas, of presenting every 
visitor with flowers. Their gardens may not display a large col- 
lection, but if they produce but a single sprig of sweet odor it is 
given to the first comer. In calling at different houses in the 
course of the afternoon, the visitor would accumulate quite a num- 
ber of bouquets, did he not learn from experience that, to save 



206 SOCIETY IN ASUNCION. 

himself from a broadside of graceful reproaches, it would be ad- 
visable to conceal or part with the flowers of Senorita Maria be- 
fore entering the presence of Senorita Theresa. Each lady must 
suppose that she is the sole object of the afternoon's homage. 

We were invariably offered refreshments, either mate or En- 
glish ale, which is very popular among the Paraguayans, and 
throughout the river towns — or the panales, a very refreshing do- 
mestic drink, made of the white of eggs and sugar beaten togeth- 
er, and formed into cakes of a cylindrical shape, looking like a 
delicate honeycomb. A little negro presents the visitor with a 
plate of these, always with a glass of water ; the panales immersed 
in the water dissolves immediately, and affords a simple but de- 
licious beverage. The servant after offering this goes out, but 
soon returns with the brasero — a small brass vessel containing a 
few coals of fire — and a plate of cigars. This last hospitality is 
offered in every house, however humble its pretensions in other 
respects; and all men, women, and children — delicate, refined girls, 
and young masters who would not with us be promoted to the 
dignity of pantaloons — smoke with a gravity and gusto that is ir- 
resistibly ludicrous to a foreigner. My son sometimes accompa- 
nied me in these visits, and was always greatly embarrassed by 
the pressing offer of cigars. I made his excuses by saying, "Smok- 
ing is a practice we consider injurious for children." " Si, senor," 
the Paraguayan would reply, "with all other tobacco, but not 
with that of Paraguay." 

On no occasion, while in Asuncion, were we invited to "dine 
out," or take tea; and dinners by invitation, or meals taken 
socially with other families, are unknown. I had frequently visit- 
ors while at breakfast, but never could prevail on one to join me 
at table. The Paraguayans rise early, take mate and cigars, then 
visit or transact business during the cool of the morning. At 
midday they dine, then retire for a siesta, during which the streets 
are deserted, every store and dwelling closed, and a profound still- 
ness reigns through the town. After a few hours the houses are 
reopened, cigars and mate are again served, and each one goes to 
his daily vocation. Eiding, visiting, or walking occupies the time 
from sundown till nine o'clock, when supper finishes the labors 
and enjoyments of the day. 

I called to inform the President of my desire to visit the inte- 
rior of his beautiful country ; he replied, courteously, that a kind 
reception awaited me. 



TEIP TO THE INTERIOR. 207 

"Will your Excellency tell me whether a passport is neces- 
sary ?" 

He hesitated — " Not necessary, but it may facilitate your move- 
ments if questioned by some official, who would understand noth- 
ing you could say so well as a passport." 

The paper was prepared, but demanded only on one occasion. 
on the extreme eastern frontier of the Kepublic, where, as the 
President had foreseen, it was more useful than words. 

Our next step was to engage a vaqueano, an indispensable at- 
tendant to a traveling party ; for he is guide, hostler, banker, and 
interpreter. The last is a very important service, for in many 
parts of the interior of Paraguay Spanish is as little understood as 
English or any other foreign language. Gruarani is almost uni- 
versally spoken, and even the higher classes, who use Spanish 
habitually, understand and speak the Indian tongue with facility. 

" Cargaro" horses were also an absolute requisite for carrying 
our instruments for latitude and longitude, barometric measure- 
ments, daguerreotypes, and portfolios for botanic specimens ; to 
say nothing of a change of clothing and bedding for each individ- 
ual of the party. The latter, however, was not very bulky, being 
merely an India-rubber poncho. 

A hint from the President would be quite sufficient to insure 
kind treatment to strangers at the hands of every Paraguayan. 
But, independent of any influence the expression of his Excel- 
lency's will might have, I really believe hospitality to be a na- 
tional virtue. As there are no public houses, travelers must de- 
pend exclusively on private entertainment. I instructed the va- 
queano to make remuneration on all occasions in the course of 
our route. It was invariably offered, but in a majority of instances 
declined. 

On the 6th of February, 1854, in the afternoon, our party 
moved off, much to the amusement of a crowd of men, women, 
and children, who had assembled to see sailors on horseback. A 
gentleman who knew the country thoroughly had given me some 
general written directions as to the best places for siesta and for 
stopping at night. The first named was the Estancia Corvallan, 
about eighteen miles from Asuncion. Many estancieros in Para- 
guay reside permanently in the country, where they have spacious 
adobe houses. Don Jaimi Corvallan was one of this class of 
country gentlemen, and one of wealth and respectability. A 
friend having notified him of our intended visit, he came out to 



208 D0N JAIMI CORVALLAN. 

meet us as we rode up to the house, invited us cordially to enter, 
and presented us to his wife and daughter, who welcomed us 
kindly, and busied themselves with the preparation of what 
proved a sumptuous supper. 

Paraguayans of all classes observe the sensible and economical 
habit of serving one dish at a time, though sometimes a single ar- 
ticle of food will furnish material for half a dozen courses. All 
are varied by nice cookery. ^ 

On the present occasion we had " pucharo" (stewed beef with 
vegetables), "asado" (roast beef), poultry, mandioca, and a "dulce" 
— a term comprehending a variety of sweet things — in this case 
a simple but very nice preparation of milk and sugar. After ci- 
gars and a chat with Don JaimJ? we were shown to our sleeping 
apartments, where we found beautifully clean beds and white cot- 
ton hammocks, with elaborate net-work trimmings. 

At an early hour the following morning we were astir and 
ready for a start. The servant who awakened us served at the 
same time a mate ; and when we were ready to mount, a little ne- 
gress came forward with a large goblet of foaming milk, fresh and 
warm from the cow. Our kind host accompanied us for some 
distance. And now realizing that we had fairly commenced our 
journey into the interior of the country we felt much pleased with 
this first experience of its hospitalities. 

The road we followed was good, but sandy, and lay through a 
populous campo* After passing Ytigua, a pueblitb\ with a neat 
little chapel, we reached Periju in about three hours, and stopped 
for breakfast. This village is beautifully situated at the base of a 
ridge of wooded hills, and has its plaza and church. To the east 
ranged lofty sierras, and between them and the serranias lay the 
fertile campo through which we had traveled, winding beyond 
reach of the eye, and dotted with estancias and herds of horned 
cattle, or with small fields of corn, tobacco, and mandioca. 

The meal at Periju, which served both for breakfast and din- 
ner, consisted of beef, chickens, and mandioca ; the latter a gen- 
eral substitute through the country for bread. Our route from 
this place still lay through a level grazing country, its monotony 
relieved by superb woodlands. Passing the village of Paraguayri, 
we stopped for the night at the house of Seiiora Dalmacia Fernan- 
dez. Festive sounds reached us as we approached — the jingling 

* Campo, level country, in contradistinction to sierra, mountains, and serranias, 
hills, or spurs. t Pueblita, hamlet. 



SENORA DALMACIA FERNANDEZ. 



209 



of guitars and dancing. We had disturbed a merry-making, and 
met with a cold reception. It was too late to look for other 
quarters, and, fatigued by a long day's ride, I was indisposed to 
excuse this want of hospitality by remembering that our arrival 
had interrupted the dance. I revenged myself by an exhibition 
of independence, which was, I fear, all lost on the senora ; for, re- 




COSTUMES IN THE INTERIOR. 



freshed by a bath in a small river that meandered through the 
campo, and wrapped in poncho and shawl, I settled myself for the 
night, quite unmindful of after invitations to supper and bed. 
The vaqueano had especial instructions to pay for all accommoda- 
tions which the party received; and at five o'clock the next morn- 
ing we left with a smile, a courtesy, and an adios senor, from 

14 



210 CON LOUIS HOMAN. 

Senora Dalmacia, that would have "taken aback" an old Span- 
iard. But I was unmoved, and went on my way with a stiff bow, 
and a determination never again to seek shelter from storm or 
starvation at the house of this fair widow. 

We passed a wooded spur of the sierra, and, after a ride of 
twenty-one miles, hungry and fatigued, stopped at the Estancia del 
Estado, about one mile from the Kio Hondo, a small tributary of the 
Tibiquari. Here two of our cargaro horses, with the daguerreo- 
type instruments, broke down, but we were furnished with fresh 
animals to take us to the house of Senor Jose Dolores, our rest- 
ing-place for the night. 

Passing the Capilla* Ybitimi, we arrived, about dusk, at Don 
Jose's. He was absent, but we were kindly received by the son, 
who hired us fresh horses to Villa Kica. As early on the follow- 
ing morning as the laziness of our vaqueano would allow, we were 
on the road, and in a short time reached the Tibiquarimini (Little 
Tibiquari), the principal branch of a river of that name. After 
fording this stream, which was two hundred yards wide, and from 
two to three feet deep, we entered the Partido Ytape, and break- 
fasted at the estancia of Senor Manuel Vasquez. Three hours later 
we arrived at "Villa Kica." 

Having letters for a Portuguese merchant, Don Louis Homan, 
I at once sought his residence, wishing to consult him about quar- 
ters for our party. He insisted that as many as could be accom- 
modated should remain at his house ; while for the others he found 
lodgings. I had no wish to impose upon his kindness, but he 
would only compromise matters by agreeing to find rooms for us 
elsewhere, provided we would take our meals with him. The 
hospitality of Don Louis was only surpassed by his industry and 
intelligence. Though an active merchant, horticulture, mechanics, 
and the rearing of horses occupied, his leisure hours. A garden 
well stocked with delicious fruits, improved machinery for crushing 
sugar, and some fine horses, were shown us with evident pride. 
His racers were really noble animals, though they may not have 
possessed the " blood and heels" of Eclipse or Henry. Senor 
Homan also takes an intelligent interest in the native products of 
the country. His house, like all those of the better class at Villa 
Rica, was of adobe, and of one story. The furniture was made' of 
Paraguay woods, such as Morosimo, and Tatayba, both of which 
have a very fine texture, and are susceptible of a high polish. 

* Capilla. a chapel surrounded by a few dwellings-. 






VILLA EICA. 211 

The Morosimo is not unlike mahogany ; the Tatayba is of a deli- 
cate straw color. I am indebted to- him for some beautiful spe- 
cimens of the gum " Mbatitimbaby," which is amber - colored, 
clear, and apparently as hard as crystal. It is soluble only in 
nitric acid. 

Villa Eica is equidistant from the river Tibiquari on the east, 
and its tributary the Tibiquarimini on the west. Its position is 
picturesque, being surrounded by fertile plains, while to the east 
and west range low mountains covered with noble forests. It has 
about two thousand inhabitants, and is the principal depot for all 
the products of the neighboring country. These are purchased by 
its merchants, and conveyed to Asuncion in ox-wagons at the 
rate of 12 J cents the aroba. Each cart carries one hundred arobas, 
and consumes twenty days in the travel to and from the capital, 
without allowing for any detention there or upon the road. Ow- 
ing to these embarrassments, and the exactions and monopolies of 
the government, the resources of this region are undeveloped. 

The Jesuits had here an important establishment, but the church 
and other buildings were destroyed by Francia's orders, and upon 
their ruins was erected an unpretending chapel. The shops, the 
principal of which was that of our friend Don Louis Homan, were 
gayly decked with goods. 

The country through which we had passed, from Asuncion to 
Villa Eica, one hundred and eight miles by the road, is through- 
out populous, picturesque, and fertile ; the campo has the appear- 
ance of a lovely meadow, and the fine condition of the cattle 
proved the excellence of its grasses. Skirting the plains are the 
serranias, and upon these are built the pueblos, pueblitas* capillas, 
and dwellings of the country people. Some of the latter are of 
adobe, and are spacious ; others are low thatched huts. The roll- 
ing lands rise in gentle slopes to a background of wooded mount- 
ains, which form a beautiful and effective setting to the hills, and 
green pastures below. 

There were no large plantations, but many small fields of corn, 
tobacco, mandioca, and a little sugar-cane. 

In the time of Francia, cotton was extensively cultivated for 
home consumption. I saw but a few plants, the growth of two or 
three years ; for even since the opening of the rivers in 1852, the 
foreign-manufactured article has worked its way into these inte- 
rior regions, and the people will no longer pay seventy -five cents 

* Pueblos, villages. Pueblitas, hamlets. 



212 THE TIBIQUAKI. 

per yard for the domestic fabric, when they can purchase the im- 
ported for ten. So much for trade, even in Paraguay. 

The Tibiquari and Tibiquarimini, which course through fertile 
lands, might be made channels of communication to the river Par- 
aguay ; but the Tibiquari disembogues one hundred and forty -two 
miles below Asuncion, and one hundred and eight above Corri- 
entes. The products of the country would of course follow the 
current, and find their market in the latter city, and draw propor- 
tionably from the trade of the capital. This would not at all ac- 
cord with the aim of President Lopez, which is to make the trade 
of the Kepublic centre where he has the collection of the revenue 
under his direct supervision. It is natural that he should wish to 
make the ports of Paraguay the seat of their own import and ex- 
port trade ; but more enlarged views would suggest the naviga- 
tion of the Tibiquari by small steamers, or even boats ; and the 
building of a village, which would soon grow to a city, at its 
mouth. The aggregate products of the whole country through 
which this river flows are even now considerable, and could, from 
its natural fertility, be increased a hundredfold. 

We remained several days at Villa Eica to make observations 
for determining its latitude and longitude, and the variation of 
compass. Its position, as established by Lieutenant Welsh from 
altitudes of the sun, and of stars east and west, and north and 
south with pocket chronometer, sextant, and artificial horizon, is 
latitude 25° 47' 10" south, longitude 56° 30' 20" west; variation 
7° 34' east; height above Asuncion 323 feet; and above Buenos 
Ayres 580. 

We also hoped during this delay to refresh our cargaro horses, 
which were now quite useless from the state of their backs, caused 
more by the clumsy saddle of the country than the weight of the 
instruments. This recado (saddle), used every where, is not only 
uncomfortable to the rider, as I had a fair opportunity of judging, 
but injurious to the horse. Indeed you scarcely see an animal 
much used in La Plata whose back does not show its bad effects. 
It serves the double purpose of saddle and bed ; and were our 
saddles encumbered with an equal number of skins or cloths 
placed under and over, they would answer as well ; but the people 
of these countries trouble themselves little with improvements ; 
old things are preferred because they are old. 

From the difficulty of obtaining horses, and accommodations for 
so large a party, I determined to divide it at Villa Eica. Lieu- 



TRAVELING IN THE INTERIOR. 213 

tenants Ammen and Welsh were directed to take another route, 
while I, abandoning the daguerreotype instrument, and encum- 
bered only with such as were necessary for geographical determi- 
nation, pursued my course east, accompanied by Lieutenants Pow- 
ell and Henry, and Mr. Bushell. 

Travelers, are almost unknown in the interior of Paraguay ; and, 
in the absence of all hotels or public houses, it is difficult to pro- 
cure a change of horses, accommodation, or rather provisions, for 
a large party. The grazing is every where fine, but an animal 
turned out at night is not fit for the next day's travel. At least 
this can not be followed up for many days successively. The 
people cultivate only the essentials of life. Corn, though abund- 
ant and cheap, is never stored, but sold, as soon as gathered, to 
the merchant of some neighboring village. One rarely sees bread, 
except in certain thrifty families, where is found the chupa, made 
of the flour of the bitter mandioca, an excellent substitute for that 
of wheat. 

At our first stopping-place, after leaving Villa Eica, the dwell- 
ing wore an unusual air of comfort, and the dinner was both 
abundant and well cooked. It consisted of soup, chickens, stewed 
beef, hominy, eggs, and milk ; all served in as many courses, but 
in one and the same earthen dish, out of which we ate with 
wooden spoons. Plates, dishes, and knives are the luxuries only 
of the higher classes. 

We spent the night at Capilla Yacaguazu, the house of Senor 
Dorothio Duarte, about thirteen miles from Villa Eica. The next 
day, after some trouble with one of the cargaro mules which we 
had hired at Villa Eica to replace our worn-out horses, we crossed, 
about nine miles from the Capilla, the little river Yacaguazu, a 
tributary of the Tibiquari, and twelve miles beyond arrived at 
the village of San Francisco, in the department of Caasapa. The 
physical features of the country to that point continued unchanged; 
mountains and hills, covered with superb forests, inclosing fertile 
and populous campos. 

All the lands from the Yacaguazu to the Parana, eastward, are 
the property of the state. The inhabitants, who are tenants of the 
Eepublic, pay an annual rent of two dollars the square league, 
and a tenth of the produce. The resources of the country under 
such a system can never be fully developed ; and it is said that 
President Lopez, aware of this, will propose to Congress a law au- 
thorizing the sale of these lands. But one can scarcely imagine the 



214 



PUESTA DEL ESTADO. 



action of that body necessary to enable him to carry out his will. 
The proclamations and edicts of his Excellency are the laws, and 
they command the strictest observance. 

Leaving San Francisco, we reached the Puesta del Estado cle 
Jesus Maria, one of the numerous government estancias, after a 
travel of six hours, very hungry and tired. In this journey 
through Paraguay, wherever we were not tempted to enter by the 
neatness of a dwelling, our dining and sleeping room was always 
under the projecting roof common to all country-houses. We now 
occupied the usual place, feasting eye and imagination upon the 
landscapes before us, but impatiently watching for the appearance 
of food for the material man. At last a servant of the state ap- 
peared, and announced with dignity, " Dinner is ready." We rose 




PINNER AT THE PUESTA DEL ESTADO. 



SCANTY DINNER.— A STORM. 215 

from our seats, looked around and within, but could see nothing 
of the mysterious dinner. Presently out stepped two of the gal- 
lant defenders of the Puesta del Estado, each holding a long stick, 
upon which hung a piece of asado. They moved before us, 
grounded arms, and stood at rest. 

" Is that our dinner ?" 

" Si, Senor," was the answer, accompanied by a profound obei- 
sance, but uttered with an air and voice which implied 

" What more would you have ?". . 

We drew our knives, and, without salt, bread, or vegetables, 
commenced the attack, only to experience the mortification of a 
defeat. The meat must have been taken from a bullock as old as 
a Chaco Indian. Our knives were .sharp, and we assaulted vigor- 
ously only to be repulsed, and this too while our hungry eyes 
wandered over the luxuriant campos, where two thousand sleek 
beeves were tranquilly grazing. Surely I had offended Jupiter. 
I had let in " Los Portugases," and this was my pimishment ; but 
it was not everlasting. A few fowls were running about; and 
one of our party, in a happy fit of inspiration, suggested eggs, on 
which, with a little Villa Eica bread found among the baggage, 
we made our dinner. For this luxurious meal and corn for our 
horses, the charge was one dollar. I never reported the capitan 
of this puesta, or he would probably have lost his place. 

Six miles from this hospitable posta we crossed a tributary of 
the little river Peripo, and dissipated our ill-humor and disap- 
pointment by taking a delicious bath, little thinking that we were 
soon to taste the same luxury in another way. Night closed in 
before we reached any habitation, and with it came a terrific 
storm. The pitchy darkness was only relieved by blinding flash- 
es of lightning, and we moved on step by step, not knowing where 
the next would lead or end ; for the vaqueano, unable to see the 
road or even the head of his horse, had lost his way. The rain 
fell in a continuous torrent, while the lightning flashed only to 
leave us again in more profound darkness. Hark! the bark of 
a dog. Following the sound, we found ourselves before a miser- 
able thatched shed, or hut, open on one side. It could scarcely 
be called a house, but it sheltered kind hearts and innocence : a 
man> two women, and a young child. Any port in a storm, where 
there is safe anchorage, is to a wearied mariner preferable to drift- 
ing he knows not where. We " came to," and asked for shelter. 
The man sprang from his bed, and without hesitation gave us a 



216 A HUNGARIAN EMIGRANT. 

kind welcome, while the women soon busied themselves in kin- 
dling up some slumbering embers in the centre of the earthen floor, 
over which stood a pot. Wet and weary, we gathered round the 
tire, and regaled ourselves with mate. The man offered me his 
only bed, a well-stretched hide ; but, declining it, I slung up a 
hammock, wet as my clothes, and turned in " all standing." Light 
repasts, fatigue, a good conscience, are the best opiates, and under 
their influence I was soon asleep, dreaming of home, airy cham- 
bers, and soft couches. 

Nothing could be more lovely than the appearance of the coun- 
try through which we traveled the following day. The storm 
had freshened and enlivened all vegetation. The air was soft and 
balmy ; the sun cast a flood of radiance upon the grassy plain, 
which was inclosed on all sides, apparently without outlet, by 
wooded mountains, and overspread by herds of horned cattle, ex- 
ceeding in size and fine condition any we had seen. The district 
was as populous as that immediately around Asuncion. Every 
hill-side had its adobe houses, orange-trees, and little fields of corn, 
tobacco, and mandioca. 

Amid all this wealth of pastoral agriculture we came to the res- 
idence of a man of refinement and education — a Hungarian en- 
gineer, Mr. Francis Wisner, who had here, with his young wife and 
children, probably pitched his tent for life. Mr. "Wisner reached 
Paraguay in 1845, and rendered good service to the people by as- 
sisting them in preparing their defenses against an expected inva- 
sion from Corrientes. His labors were poorly requited after the 
danger was passed. He had made a topographical survey of the 
country bordering on the Tibiquari, and, at the time of our visit, 
was working out a beautiful map for the President. My only as- 
tonishment was that so intelligent a person should, without the 
protection of any nationality, be willing to live under such a gov- 
ernment. But a strong tie connects him with the country : his 
wife is a Paraguayan. The laws permit no woman to leave the 
republic without permission of the President ; and the well-known 
and useful accomplishments of Mr. Wisner would probably only 
increase the difficulty of obtaining it. He enjoys, however, the 
privilege of an estate, a league square, in one of the finest regions 
of the earth, for which he pays the established rent of two dollars 
per annum, and the " diezmo." 

From this quarter of Paraguay the cost of transportation to the 
capital is twenty -five cents the aroba. Taking the one article 



SENOB SERGENTE LOPEZ. 217 

tobacco, we find it encumbered with the following charges : Trans- 
portation to Asuncion, twenty -five cents the aroba; exportation 
duty, twelve and a half cents; the "dieznio," or tenth, fifteen 
cents. Net proceeds, at the present price of tobacco (one dollar 
and fifty cents the aroba), eighty -three cents the aroba. The profit 
would be three and one third cents the pound. 

I was anxious to determine the position of Mr. Wisner's house, 
but the weather would not permit. "We however established, by 
barometric measurement, its height above Asuncion, which we 
found to be 71 feet, and above Buenos Ayres 328 feet. It will be 
seen by comparison with the observations at Villa Eica and Asun- 
cion, that the former is the highest of these three points, and that 
after passing it there is a slight though gradual descent eastward 
to the Parana ; but the country bordering on the Parana, in the 
same parallel with Asuncion, is more elevated than that on the 
Paraguay. 

After dinner and a few hours of pleasant conversation, we con- 
tinued our journey, and before dark reached the residence of 
Senor Sergente Lopez, distant fifteen miles, making in all thirty 
traveled this day through the partido (district) of Bobi. The 
limits of the various partidos, unless defined by some natural 
boundary, are difficult to ascertain ; and from the difference of 
opinion on this subject among the inhabitants, we came to the 
conclusion that they troubled themselves but little to arrive at the 
truth. 

We were kindly received by Don Sergente, who gave us a sub- 
stantial supper of roast and stewed beef, with the after luxury of 
cots and neat bed -linen in our usual airy sleeping apartment 
under the projecting roof. I missed in this journey the refreshing 
luxury of a cup of tea. Although a lover of mate, and a believer 
in its virtues, it was to me a poor substitute for the China leaf, 
which in Paraguay is sold only as a medicine in the druggists' 
shops of Asuncion. The mate is never served at meals, as tea is 
with us, but is always the accompaniment of a cigar. 

At an early hour the next morning we crossed the little river 
Uputa, a tributary of the Aguapay. Eight miles beyond is the 
dividing line between Bobi and San Casmi. Seeing a house with 
fine patches of corn around it, we thought it a good place for 
breakfast. It proved to be the residence of an old lady, who, un- 
like Senora Dalmacia, gave us a kind reception. The dwellings 
of the country people are uniformly on the public roads ; and by 



218 SWIMMING A RIVEE. 

keeping a bright look-out for the significant indications of good 
cheer, cattle, small fields of corn, and mandioca, a traveler may 
generally, without fear of disappointment, find enough to satisfy 
his appetite. We had been but a short time at the Senora's when 
an agitation among the chickens, and certain other unmistakable 
signs, gave a pleasant forewarning of dinner. The good woman 
soon placed it before us, then placidly seated herself at a table 
near, and continued her work, making cigars from tobacco which 
hung from the roof, and had only a month or two before been cut 
from the field. To all appearance the leaf was of a fine quality ; 
and after rolling one up in the neatest manner, she gravely placed 
it by my plate, with a request that I would smoke it. I asked 
her to make me a few, and though so fresh they proved ex- 
cellent. 

Until the arrival of the American Company there was not, even 
at Asuncion, an appointed place for making or selling cigars, 
though many thousands were exported monthly. Individuals who 
bought for their own use, or merchants requiring them for do- 
mestic trade or exportation, .ordered them from different country 
families, and they were always punctually delivered — their shape 
and size varying according to order. 

Twelve miles beyond Dona Clara's we reached the Taquari, a 
tributary of the Parana, and the dividing line between the partidos 
San Casmi and Carmen. It was so much swollen by the backing 
up of the waters of the Parana that we were obliged to cross in 
canoes ; the horses swimming alongside and literally carrying us 
over by " horse power." After passing this river we came to our 
resting-place for the night, the " Capilla Carmen," where we were 
well received by the commandante, Mariano Senturian, at whose 
house we had been advised to stop. 

The country from Villa Pica is generally campo, intersected by 
several streams and skirted by wooded ridges of rolling lands. 
The soil of the latter is argillaceous, while that of the plain is a 
rich dark loam. The estancias are not so numerous as between 
Asuncion and Villa Pica, the largest being those of the govern- 
ment ; but the herds of cattle are superb. 

There was no great variety in the articles cultivated. Every 
where we saw tobacco, corn, mandioca, pumpkins, onions, oranges, 
and melons. The latter, though small, were of delicious flavor. 
This poverty in the variety of fruits and vegetables arises only 
from the extreme indifference of the people, who have no market 



CLIMATE AND PRODUCTIONS. 221 

for such products, and care little for what we consider trie luxuries 
of the table. 

It is almost impossible to name a tropical fruit which, if planted 
here, does not thrive with the least possible care. Bananas, plant- 
ains, and pine-apples are cultivated on a limited scale ; but in no 
country do they mature in greater perfection. So with coffee. I 
saw it growing in one place only, but it was particularly fine. 

Give the Paraguayans mate, beef, and mandioca, and they are 
satisfied. Their forests yield the 'first, and the native pastures 
support their cattle. Shut out, first by the policy of Spain, and 
again by the tyranny of Francia, from all communication with 
other lands, they neither know nor desire their luxuries. The 
climate is deliciously soft ; and with the festivals of the Church, 
and an occasional "dance," to break the monotony of existence, 
they dream it away, imagining that the true and only Elysium is 
Paraguay. 

We saw a few deer. Among the domestic animals are sheep, 
but no hogs. The woodlands are probably rich in flora and birds ; 
but traveling almost continuously through a level open country, 
we saw very few. Jaguars are rarely seen in this part of Para- 
guay, but infest the forests bordering on the rivers. Among the 
birds, the most common was the small partridge. 

As we approached the Parana the country continued fertile, 
populous and picturesque ; beautifully diversified by plains and 
wooded ridges. Under beneficent legislation, with such a wealth 
of soil and climate, surely the happiness of a golden age might 
here be realized. 

In all Paraguay I have not yet met a medical man. At Asun- 
cion, and a few of the towns only, "curanderos" are found. 
These are men supposed to be skilled in the knowledge and ap- 
plication of the remedios drawn from the vegetation of the country. 
Falconer,* both physician and botanist, says : " Paraguay is en- 
riched by the bounty of nature with so many wholesome plants, 
roots, gums, woods, and fruits, that whoever is skilled in the knowl- 
edge of these things would have no occasion for European drug- 
gists to cure any disease." Nearly all families of the country un- 
derstand the power and use of these remedies. 

We made this journey in February, the last summer month, the 

* An English Jesuit. When he wrote, all La Plata was called Paraguay, but 
the Jesuits were particularly acquainted with all the northern and western prov- 
inces. 



222 ENCARNACION.— CARMEN. 

hottest of the year. In the course of each day and night we 
entered three or four different houses, and yet heard of no sick 
individuals or families. Malignant fevers are unknown. On sev- 
eral occasions we met with men over eighty, vigorous in mind 
and body, who assured us they had never experienced a day of 
indisposition. We generally slept under the projecting roof, and 
I remember no night that was not deliciously cool — so much so, 
that my blanket-shawl was always an essential covering. 

The barometer and thermometer were both accidentally broken, 
which I regretted, as I wished to measure the height of Ytapua — 
now Encarnacion — with Asuncion, and continue meteorological 
observations. Our register of temperatures up to the 17th, in- 
clusive, gave a maximum of heat, at 3 P.M., of 94°, minimum 
86° ; and yet, with the wind from the north — for it is only from 
that quarter that so high a range is produced — this temperature 
was not oppressive. The position of Carmen, latitude 27° 12' 30" 
S., longitude 56° 14/ 21" W., was determined by Lieutenant Powell 
at a subsequent period. In consequence of an accident to the 
pocket - chronometer before my return to Asuncion, which pre- 
vented a comparison and verification of its error and rate with our 
standard, I was unwilling to assume the results of our work as 
correct. Lieutenant Powell, who afterward visited the interior 
of the country, was directed in his returning to take the same 
route from and after his arrival at Villa Rica — a place satisfactorily 
determined — and to make all necessary observations at each of 
the prominent points where they had been previously made, and 
the geographical positions of which I deemed it important to es- 
tablish with every degree of accuracy. 

The Puebla Carmen is a new place, built after the abandonment 
of Ytapua, and contains about one thousand inhabitants. Why 
was Encarnacion deserted ? After considerable negotiation with 
foreign powers, Paraguay opened a port on the Parana. She re- 
gretted the concession ; but there was only one way of avoiding 
the stipulations of the treaty and keeping the portals closed. This 
was by building up a new village twenty-one miles in the interior, 
and making it the centre of trade for all the neighboring country. 
President Lopez proved in this instance that if he can not move 
mountains he can change the position of towns. He who dares 
look back to Encarnacion will be turned into one of the pillars of 
the state — a soldier. 

Nothing could have been kinder than our reception by Don 



EL SECRETARIO.— YTAPUA. 223 

Mariano. He added to our obligations by the offer of fresh horses 
to Ytapua. "We started in great spirits, and soon came to the 
river Yun, a tributary of the Parana, which was crossed in a canoe, 
the horses as usual carrying it oyer by swimming alongside. This 
river is the dividing line between the departments Carmen and 
Encarnacion, being distant from the former fifteen miles. One 
mile beyond this we passed over the Boicaja, also a tributary of 
the Parana. The country from Carmen to Ytapua is rolling, with 
an argillaceous soil, bearing a little wheat of indifferent quality. 

When within a mile of Ytapua we missed one of our party, 
" El Secretario" of the Paraguayans, the " Colonel" of the younger 
officers, and, in truth, the captain's clerk. He was a son of the 
Emerald Isle; one more "skilled in the tongues" than in horse- 
manship. Mounted on rather a mettlesome steed, with dragoon 
saddle and holsters, containing a formidable pair of horse-pistols ; 
with feet barely touching the stirrups, lengthened to the last hole, 
the colonel was, when mounted, a true knight — a scion of the royal 
O'Neals. From the first elevation we looked back anxiously for 
our missing companion. A riderless horse was flying over the 
plains, lashed at every step by holsters and saddle-skirts ; while on 
foot, and in hot pursuit, was the colonel. Judging from his agile 
movements that the physical frame was unharmed, and knowing 
that both rider and steed must "bring up" at some neighboring 
corral, we quietly pursued our way. "While hob-nobbing over a 
glass of cana with the commandante, in walked our friend, a little 
worn from his exercise under a temperature of 90°, but declaring 
earnestly that he had only dismounted to arrange the equipments 
of his steed, when he gave him the slip. 

Ytapua was one of the most famous of the Jesuit reductions ; 
but its glory has passed away ; that is, the glory of Jesuitic civil- 
ization ; yet nature is still beautiful. The Parana — already by the 
accumulated waters of many navigable streams a mighty river, one 
mile and a quarter wide — rolls on majestically between a border- 
ing of lofty trees. It will probably be found navigable from 
Ytapua to the ocean for river steamers, for the Jesuits descended 
to Corrientes from this point in vessels of four and five feet 
draught. The falls of Apipe, one thousand miles from the capes 
of La Plata, obstruct, for the first time, its navigation by large 
vessels ; such, at least, is the generally received opinion ; but 
having reason to doubt this fact, I sent the "Water Witch to ex- 
amine those rapids, while I was engaged in prosecuting another 



224 WEALTHY CHUKCHES. 

branch, of the work. In passing the Paraguayan fort of Itapiru, 
she was dastardly fired into, and one man killed. 
But I am anticipating. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



Francia. — Eeligion and the Churches. — Ytapua. — The Commandante and Soldiers. 
— Navigability of the Parana. — Carmen. — Equipments of Horses. — Mission of San 
Cosmi. — Estancia San Rafael. — Mate. — Frescoes. — D. Ignacio's Horse. — Capilla 
San Martin. — The Supper. — Missions Santa Maria and Santa Rosa. — Estancia 
of Senora Casara. — The Merchant President. — Senor Cabenas. — Capilla Caa- 
pucu. — Senor Vasconcellos. — The Diezmo. — Public Lands. — Senor Bergarran, 
— Iron Works. — The Waiter. — The Superintendent. — Ibicui. — Mineral Districts. 
— Products and Exports of Paraguay. — The Surgeon of the Water Witch. — 
Beauty and Fertility of the Country. — Presidential Election. — No Admittance. 
— A Motion to make the President Emperor. — The Constitution. — Individual 
Wealth. — Cotton. — Lists of Exports from Asuncion. 

The ruins of a church and a few dilapidated houses are all that 
remain of one of the most celebrated of the Parana missions. 
Francia finished what the immediate successors of the Jesuits 
spared. The Dictator was no hypocrite in religion. On all oc- 
casions he manifested an indifference to its outer observance and 
contempt for the priests, who, he was repeatedly heard to say, 
" rather tend to make these people believe in the devil than in 
God." Even within the memory of living Paraguayans, some of 
these churches were rich in vessels of precious metals, statuettes of 
the twelve apostles in solid silver, paintings, and carving. The 
church of Ytapua was one of the most beautiful of these. A 
massive foundation, three hundred and twenty feet by eighty, and 
a few feet of the superstructure, are all that remain of this edifice. 
It was despoiled, but not demolished, by Francia. In 1846 serv- 
ice was still held within its walls. They were taken down in 
this year by order of President Lopez, who was told that the con- 
dition of the building made it unsafe. But the work of demo- 
lition showed its strength; and the President, I was informed, 
greatly regretted his agency in the destruction of one of the finest 
Jesuitic monuments of the country. The residences of the Fathers, 
built of stone and brick, were in excellent preservation, and seem- 
ed to defy the ravages of time. One of them was occupied by the 
commandante, who assured me that it had never, within the 
memory of living man, been repaired, and yet the wood- work, 
especially those parts that had not been exposed to the elements, 



NAVIGABILITY OF THE PAEANA. 225 

was perfect ; the bamboo slats, laid transversely across the rafters 
as a support for the tiling, looked untouched by time. 

The commandante was hospitable, and celebrated our arrival 
by making himself gloriously happy with cana. He entertained 
us with marvelous stories of battles fought and won by Para- 
guayans; of his own deeds of valor and single-handed combat; all 
of which impressed us profoundly with the vivacious imagination 
and talent for military narration of this officer of the republic. 
Tired, sleepy, and fearing that he might mistake us for the enemy, 
we retreated at an early hour to our hammocks. 

When BuctLrelli carried out the instructions of the Count of 
Aranda, the Jesuits were constructing a church at the " Mission 
Jesus," near the Pueblo Trinidad, about twenty miles above on 
the Parana — the highest point on that river to which the Paraguay 
missions extended. But neither the magnificence of its design nor 
the beauty of the masonry and wood- work — much of which was 
completed — could save it from the vandalism of Francia, who 
ordered it to be destroyed. Some few of these churches — San 
Oosmi, Santiago, Santa Kosa — were spared, and we visited them in 
the return route to Asuncion. 

On the 22d of February — a day remembered by all Americans, 
wherever they may be — we left for Carmen, carrying with us, as 
a souvenir of Ytapua, a bit of the stone of the old church, which 
seems to be veined with copper. With the exception of one dis- 
trict, and this extending but a few miles, the country was as thickly 
populated as that immediately around Asuncion. The dwellings 
were of a better order, and the cultivation very fair. The Para- 
na, unobstructed to the Atlantic, is an outlet for all Eastern Para- 
guay. I have several times alluded to the determination of the 
President to concentrate the whole trade of the Country at the 
capital ; and if he tells the people of the East that the Parana is 
not navigable to Corrientes, no charts based upon the most reliable 
data could convince them that his Excellency's assertion was in- 
correct. When I told them of the floating palaces carrying mil- 
lions of freight over our interior water-courses, with a draught of 
only two or three feet, they looked as if they thought I was en- 
tertaining them with a "yarn." The cataract of La Gruayra and 
the rapids of Apipe are regarded by President Lopez only as 
magnificent fortifications provided by nature for Paraguay, against 
all outside enemies; more particularly against her neighbors, " Los 
Portugases." The resources of this district are as unbounded as 

15 



226 MISSION OF SAN COSMI. 

those of tlie West ; and the wealth of the Jesuits, derived from 
their agricultural labors in a small part of it, is the best evidence 
of its fertility. The soil of the hills between Encarnacion and 
Carmen is a reddish clay, while that of the flat lands is a black 
argillaceous loam, resembling alluvial deposit. 

The Paraguayans, like all Spanish Americans, take much pride 
in the equipments of their horses. The Bolivian officers whom 
we met in Brazil had presented me with a saddle-covering, made 
of the skin of the " pareroso" (the sloth), an animal not found in 
Paraguay. It had apparently excited the admiration of many 
during this journey. On leaving Carmen, I gave it to Don Mari- 
ano, as a souvenir of our party. My offering was received with 
unaffected pleasure, and we parted with many expressions on his 
part of esteem for us all. 

As I had determined to return to Asuncion by a more southern 
route, we started for San Cosmi, another of the abandoned mis- 
sions. It is but twelve miles from Carmen, and in that distance 
we passed in canoes over two small tributaries of the Parana, the 
Taquari, and the Aguape. This mode of crossing was trouble- 
some, for it always involved the unloading and loading of the 
cargaro mules. This mission, according to our observations, is 
in latitude 27° 19' 9" south, and longitude 56° 24' 48"; variation 
7° 35 ' east. It is within half a mile of the Parana, of which and 
the neighboring country it commands an extensive view. The 
church and other buildings were in excellent preservation ; but 
the jefe was absent, and the next dignitary, " el secretario," would 
not take the mighty responsibility of opening the sacred edifice, 
so we were obliged to content ourselves with admiring the exte- 
rior. It was three hundred feet by seventy ; constructed of a red 
sandstone of fine grain, not unlike that so much used in our coun- 
try at present, but of a lighter hue. The front entrance was sup- 
ported by octagonal columns of the same stone, twenty feet in 
length, two in diameter, each of one piece, and beautifully cut. 
" El secretario" told us that the columns and flagging of the inte- 
rior were of this material, which had been taken from a neighbor- 
ing quarry on the Parana. 

I/eaving San Cosmi the following morning, we stopped, after a 
ride of five hours, for siesta, at the Estancia San Eafael. Be- 
tween the two missions, distant from each other thirty miles, we 
crossed one stream, the Arroyo Atingi, nine miles east of Santia- 
go. The first part of the day's travel was made through a campo, 



DRINKING MATE. 



227 



but before reaching the mission we entered a rolling country. 
On one of its wooded elevations, twenty-seven miles from the Pa- 
rana, stood the buildings of Santiago. Eiding into a large court, 
formed by the church and adjoining houses, we were most kindly 
received by the jefe, Senor Don Francisco Ignacio Silvero, who 
ushered us into a clean, comfortable dining-room, where mate and 
cigars were soon followed by an excellent supper. I was much 
impressed by the extreme neatness of the jefe's dwelling, and the 
simple manners, but perfect ease and good-breeding, of his wife 
and daughter. After supper we retired to sleeping-rooms, where 
were snowy beds and hammocks — another evidence Of the comfort 
and refinement of this home, not less refreshing than astonishing, 
when we reflected that we were in a remote corner of an isolated 
country. 

Early rising is a fixed habit with the Paraguayans. 
The next morning, before we were aware of the hour, 
there was a tap at the door, followed by the entrance of 
a little negro holding in each hand a mate. This nation- 
al beverage is served in a gourd, often richly ornamented, 
and is imbibed through a bombilla, a metallic tube, which 
at the bottom expands into a bulb, pierced with holes to 
act as a strainer. As often as these were emptied they 
were replenished by the darkey, until we remembered 
the custom of the country, and said " Gracias" In all 
well-regulated houses the servant continues to serve the 
national beverage, regardless of quantity, until this word, 
which means both " Thanks" and "Enough," is uttered. 

Kefreshed by this tea, and 
well supplied with fine cigars, 
the breakfast of the early morn- 
ing was made. Accompanied 
by our host, we went to visit 
the church, a grand old build- 
ing three hundred feet long 
and in excellent preservation, 
so far as time and the elements 
had worked ; but cupidity and 
vandalism had despoiled it of its 
ornaments. The ceilings were 
elaborately frescoed, and there was a vast deal of gilding, statuary, 
and carving in wood : but, mutilated and defaced as they were, only 




MATE AND BOMBILLA. 



228 CHURCH AT SANTIAGO.— YERBA. 

the eye of an artist or connoisseur could have traced any beauty, 
in subject or outlines. It must be remembered that I had neither 
written record nor garrulous guide to aid my eye or imagination ; 
and, having little knowledge of art, I will not mislead by attempt 
at description. This was the second church erected by the Jesuits 
in Paraguay, the first being that of San Ignacio. It must, there- 
fore, have stood over two centuries, and yet its solid stone walls 
looked as if they might battle with time for a thousand years to 
come. Enough remained to fill the most indifferent observer with 
wonder, in remembering that a half-dozen Jesuits and their Indian 
neophytes were the architects, builders, sculptors, and painters of 
this wilderness. The people of the country dwell much upon the 
wealth and beauty of these churches, even to the time of " El De- 
funto ;" and in the course of this journey we saw frequently 
pieces of plate that looked suspiciously like "sacred vessels." 

The surrounding buildings were in good order, and generally 
occupied by Meztizos, whose physiognomies were much more 
Guarani than Spanish. The church, its columns and flagging, as 
well as the adjoining buildings, were of the red sandstone to which 
I have before alluded. In one of the latter were several hand- 
looms, the property of the government, for weaving cotton cloth. 

Our next visit was to a grove of "verba," the u I lex Paraguay - 
ensis" which is not indigenous to this part of Paraguay. In size 
and foliage it resembles the orange-tree ; its flowers grow in clus- 
ters, are white, and closely resemble those of our elder. When 
matured, the seeds are perfectly black, and very like grains of" 
pepper. I procured some, and sent them, carefully sealed in a 
tin box, to the United States, but have never been able to learn 
any thing of them since my return. The yerba is found in Bra- 
zil, but the Paraguay leaf is considered greatly superior, and is so 
eagerly sought in every part of Spanish America that it might 
become a source of large revenue both to the government and 
people, were it not that at present the trade is monopolized by 
the former, and the supply for export consequently very much 
diminished. The Jesuits made plantations of this tree, had sev- 
eral varieties of it at all their missions, and found the quality im- 
proved by culture. This little grove had been propagated from 
the old stock, and yielded enough for the wants of the few fami- 
lies at the mission. 

We made the usual observations, which, for reasons before 
given, were imperfect ; but this was among the places subsequent- 



DINNER AT THE CAPILLA SAN MARTIN. 231 

ly determined by Lieutenant Powell, and found to be in latitude 
27° T 39" south, longitude 56° 50' 21" west, variation 7° 4' east. 
The position of Santiago is perhaps not so attractive as that of 
either San Cosmi or Ytapua ; but from the better condition of the 
church and other buildings, and from the fine cultivation of the 
surrounding country, it was far more interesting. I thought I 
could see the influence of the jefe's example, and that presented 
by the order of his household, upon the whole community. 

Wheat was growing in this neighborhood, but the grain was not 
well matured. The morning's work was followed by an excel- 
lent dinner; and when about to continue our journey, Donlgna- 
cio asked my acceptance of a horse : I begged him not to add to 
my obligations ; but he said the animal should be sent to Asun- 
cion, where he would himself again see us, as he was one of the 
representatives of the new Congress to assemble in March for the 
election of President. He was true to his 'word. Only a few 
days had elapsed after our arrival at the capital, when one of the 
finest horses I had yet seen in Paraguay was brought to my quar- 
ters, with the compliments of Don Ignacio. 

At sunset we reached the " Capilla San Martin," our resting- 
place for the night, after a ride of eleven miles through a country 
sparsely wooded, but cultivated and populous. The soil is a red- 
dish clay. The occupant of the one house at this place met all 
the demands of hospitality by giving us the best his larder afford- 
ed. This was a supper of stewed beef served in a large earthen 
dish, which was placed in the centre of a small round table, with- 
out knives, forks, or plates. But armed, as each was, with a 
wooden spoon, and aided by good appetites, and a little instruc- 
tion from our host, Don Antonio, we made an excellent supper. 
At its conclusion, a negro boy, who had stood during the repast 
like a statue behind the chair of his master, suddenly clasped 
his hands, and with the gravity of a bishop returned thanks in a 
clear, distinct voice. Cigars followed the "grace," and soon after 
we retired to our hammocks, slung up as usual outside of the 
house. 

In the morning, before day had fairly dawned, I was awakened 
by voices near me. Some ten or twelve peons, or laborers of the 
estancia, were standing before the entrance of the dwelling. One 
of them knocked -upon the door, giving the salutation " Ave Ma- 
ria" — " Sin pecado concebida" said Don Antonio solemnly, as he 
stepped out to give them a blessing, in Gruarani; after which they 



232 MISSIONS OF SANTA MARIA AND SANTA ROSA. 

dispersed. I afterward learned that this was the daily custom of 
many estancieros of the neighborhood. 

We were yet within the limits of the Missions. The old church- 
es with their surroundings, and these domestic religious observ- 
ances, are the only traces of an order that dominated over this re- 
gion for a century and a half. 

Starting at an early hour from the Capilla San Martin, we trav- 
eled for twenty-seven miles through a fine, fertile, populous coun- 
try, diversified by rolling lands and plains. On the route we vis- 
ited two other abandoned missions, Santa Maria and Santa Eosa. 
The church of the first was of the same material and dimensions 
as those we had already seen ; the frescoes, carving, and gilding 
were even more elaborate. A few pictures still hung around the 
sanctuary, and what remained of the wood- work was extremely 
beautiful. The exquisite color and fine texture of the Paraguay 
woods make them invaluable for such a purpose. Santa Eosa 
was also constructed of fine sandstone, and differed only in size 
from those already described, being rather smaller. It was in such 
admirable condition that I regretted the loss of our daguerreo- 
type instruments, which would have enabled me to present some 
representations of its frescoes. Ulloa tells us that the churches of 
these Paraguayan missions equaled the finest ecclesiastical struc- 
tures in Peru ; and other writers give us the impression that those 
of Peru were unsurpassed by many of the finest in Spain. 

We met with a hospitable reception at the estancia of Senora 
Maria Petronella Casara, in the Partido of San Juan, where we 
stopped for the night. The position of her dwelling, on a wooded 
hill, was beautiful, and the improvements within and around it 
were superior to any we had yet seen. There were touches of 
foreign taste and comfort, which were explained when Senora Ma- 
ria informed me that she was the widow of a "Frenchman," as 
all foreigners are called in Paraguay, the people troubling them- 
selves little with geographical science. We were repeatedly ask- 
ed if we were Frenchmen, and were regarded doubtfully when we 
answered in the negative. It is whispered that President Lopez 
is both a sleeping and wide-awake partner in a "Paraguay House" 
at Paris, and that the periodical arrival of certain gay fabrics and 
fashions serves to keep alive this impression of French ascendency 
among the female portion of the population. Senora Maria gave 
us an excellent supper, but was much annoyed at not receiving 
more assistance in its preparation from her two fair daughters, 



SENOR CABENAS.— CAAPUCU. 233 

who evidently found the society of the young officers of my party 
more agreeable than household duties. The next morning, after 
being served, as usual, with mate, we said "actios" to the ladies, 
and continued our journey. For twelve miles this lay through 
an unbroken plain, without apparently any unoccupied spaces, so 
numerous were estancias and farms. Near the Capilla San Miguel 
we crossed the Tibiquari, which at low water has a depth of from 
three to four feet. This river forms the northern and western 
boundary of the " Missions." 

Six miles beyond we stopped for dinner and siesta at the house 
of a rich estanciero, Senor Cabenas, where we met with unusual 
luxury. Dinner was served on massive plate ; water-goblets and 
salvers were also of pure silver. All other appointments of this 
establishment, though simple, were exceedingly comfortable. In 
Paraguay the siesta follows dinner as naturally as day is succeeded 
by night. So, after cigars and a chat with our host, who was a 
man of intelligence and polished manners, we were shown to sleep- 
ing apartments, where the extreme neatness of beds and ham- 
mocks invited repose. 

Our next resting-place for the night was the Capilla Caapucu, 
distant from the estancia of Senor Cabenas nine miles. Since 
leaving the Tibiquari we had found the lands fertile. Mountains, 
forests, and plains, all brilliant with verdure, made the aspect of 
the country impressively beautiful. 

In Paraguay foreigners are a " sight," and when we reached 
Caapucu all occupants of the surrounding houses collected to see 
us dismount. We were well received, but I thought the poor jefe 
looked embarrassed at the arrival of so large a party. However, 
relief was at hand. A gentleman rode up on a fine spirited horse, 
and, from a whispered conversation, with many glances at us, I 
" guessed" that we were the subject of a talk. The horseman dis- 
mounted, came forward, and invited us cordially to return with 
him to his estancia, which he represented as being near. We 
were very tired ; but presuming that this arrangement was made 
to relieve the jefe, who found it inconvenient to accommodate so 
many persons, we followed Senor Vasconcellos. His dwelling, 
which I had supposed within a short distance of the Capilla, gave 
us a ride of six miles ; but the jovial conversation of our new 
friend, the courteous reception given us by his wife and daughter, 
and a bountiful supper, fully compensated for the trouble. He 
was a Portuguese, who, thirty years before, had stepped over from 



234 SENOE VASCONCELLOS. 

Brazil into Paraguay, had married a daughter of the republic, be- 
coming one of its citizens, and the father of a large family. It was 
novel and refreshing to meet a man of intelligence who seemed 
neither disturbed by the ghost of Francia, nor the living power of 
Lopez, and who could converse freely and with spirit upon the 
state of the country. The absence of statistics, and the timid re- 
serve of the inhabitants in alluding to the government, made it 
very difficult to arrive at a fair estimate of the condition and re- 
sources of Paraguay. The people always spoke with hesitation 
and in a low voice, as if they feared that the walls had ears or we 
were spies. 

Senor Vasconcellos was surrounded by much to make him 
happy. It is true his lands were the property of the state, but he 
had fine herds of cattle, a garden, a spacious stone house, pleasant 
family circle, and a daughter happily married, and residing upon 
an adjoining estancia. 

Bad weather detained us three days, and gave me the oppor- 
tunity of visiting his son-in-law, whose house and grounds were in 
better condition than many we had seen, and showed, I thought, 
the influence and energy of the father-in-law. 

While strolling over his land I observed indications of iron, and 
said to him, " I think you have a vein of iron ore on your estan- 
cia?" 

He replied gravely, " My dear sir, it is the last thing I should 
care to find ; for my land is public domain, and if ore is discovered 
I must be forced to relinquish it to the government, and make 
another home." 

In the course of our walk, I saw a magnificent copaiba ; the 
ground beneath was covered with its seeds, a few of which I col- 
lected and sent to the United States. From a small tree in the 
yard of Senor Yasconcellos I also gathered seeds of the hurucu, 
which were likewise sent home. The latter yield a fine red paint, 
greatly sought by the Indians to adorn their bodies, and occasion- 
ally used in Paraguay for painting the interior wood-work of 
houses. The natives extract the color by the very simple process 
of soaking the seeds for some days in glue water. I experimented 
by leaving them in a glass of pure water for twenty -four hours, 
when, finding the coloring matter well extracted, I poured the 
whole through a piece of gauze; the sediment remained, a fine 
powder of brilliant hue. 

Though two dollars the square league is the fixed price for the 



THE DIEZMO. 235 

rent of these lands the diezmo is a heavy impost. It is, in fact, 
half of the " royal fifth." Among the last and very few good de- 
crees of Francia was one abolishing this tax, but it was imposed 
anew by Lopez. A tenth part of the increase of the herds I saw 
upon these two estancias would be no inconsiderable rent, and the 
revenue of the government from this source, though not made 
known, must be very considerable, for the tenth of every product, 
even that of vegetables and fowls, is exacted. As the actual col- 
lection and sale of the diezmo in 'kind would be a troublesome 
business, each partido is farmed out to the highest bidder, who 
again bargains with the producer, or estanciero, for his portion, or 
its equivalent. The small farmers rarely have money, therefore 
their produce is sold at the nearest village. 

The people, as might be expected under such a system, evade 
the law by the most amusing and ingenious expedients, such as 
planting nine rows of mandioca, and declaring that there can be 
no tenth. If government would pursue a more enlightened policy, 
sell the public lands, reduce the export duties, abolish the diezmo, 
the monopolies in timber, yerba, caoutchouc, etc., the enterprise of 
the Paraguayans would be awakened by the stimulus of trade, 
and the public revenue would probably greatly exceed its present 
amount. There might be, even for Paraguay, a "manifest des- 
tiny." Lopez has the ability, if he had the will, to imitate Ur- 
quiza, and put the ball in motion. 

The public lands embrace three fourths of the whole country, 
and there is a governmental control even over the actual products 
of each partido. The commander of a district may order one 
tenant to cultivate tobacco, another corn, making them all in fact 
but laborers of the state. 

I parted with regret from our new friends, but with the expect- 
ation of meeting Senor Vasconcellos soon at Asuncion, as he had 
been chosen a member of the ensuing Congress. 

Our road, for twenty miles, lay through a fine rolling country, 
and at noon we reached the Estancia Bergarran. I proposed 
stopping at this place for dinner and siesta. As we approached 
the dwelling, which was placed upon a hill and embowered by 
magnificent trees, a venerable old man, who was seated before the 
entrance, came forward, and with a dignified but courteous man- 
ner, said, " Pasa adelante, jSenores." How pleasantly that greeting 
of Senor Bergarran sounded to our tired party ! and yet literally 
it meant but " Walk in, sirs." 



236 SENOR BERGARRAN.— IRON-WORKS. 

Books are rarely numbered among the luxuries or resources of 
Paraguayans ; I was therefore somewhat astonished to find that 
our host possessed a small but admirable collection. The title of 
a little Spanish pamphlet attracted my attention. It was the 
" Articles of the Confederation of the Thirteen Original States of 
North America : December 4th, 1776." Senor Bergarran has 
been a prominent man in Paraguay, and is said to be still very 
popular with a large party, who, after the death of Francia, wished 
to place him at the head of the government. He was very cau- 
tious in alluding to the present condition of his country, but was 
evidently a man of more than ordinary intelligence. 

Our next resting-place was to be at the Grovernment Iron Works, 
the buildings of which are at the foot of the Sierra Mbonaypey, 
upon the banks of a small river navigable for boats to the Tibi- 
quari. The mountains were covered from base to summit with 
forests of gigantic trees, and the superintendent of the works — a 
Swede, Senor Don Augusta Lidiedat — told me that they teemed 
with a precious vegetation, rare medicinal plants, gums, resins, 
dye-stuffs, and woods valued for all mechanical or ornamental 
purposes. He had made a collection of plants, studied their prop- 
erties, and now used them exclusively and successfully in medical 
practice among the workmen of the mines. "With all the eager- 
ness and the indomitable perseverance that characterized the Span- 
ish conquerors in their search for gold, and all the energy of the 
Jesuits in developing the resources of Paraguay, it seems inex- 
plicable that they should have totally overlooked its mountain 
ranges. Eo scientific explorations have yet been made in these 
districts, and up to this time iron ore and zinc are the only dis- 
coveries.* Like the ranges of Northwestern Brazil, they will 
probably be found rich in a variety of minerals. 

The ore of Caapucu yields seventy -four per cent. ; that of San 
Miguel forty-eight. The latter, though smaller in quantity, is 
said to be unequaled in quality. The superintendent gave me 
specimens of these ores, also some of zinc ; and though the lands 
yielding the last have been but partially examined, they indicate 
an abundant supply. Properly worked by private enterprise, the 
mines already opened would probably supply not only Paraguay, 
but the lower states of La Plata. All works of this kind must 
necessarily be initiated by foreigners; but their labors are not 

* And these have been pronounced, by former writers on Paraguay, as not ex- 
isting within its territory. 



A WEALTHY CONVICT.— IBICUI. 237 

properly appreciated or rewarded. The machinery for this place 
was commenced by an Englishman, who died before its comple- 
tion; and the present superintendent, though a man of ability 
and energy, was, before we left the country, coolly informed that 
his services were no longer needed. Don Augusto made some 
additions to our botanic collections, and seemed delighted to have 
an opportunity of unreserved conversation with foreigners, who 
could appreciate and understand his labors. 

My attention was attracted by the appearance of a man who 
waited on the table during dinner ; his dress was more that of a 
country gentleman than a servant, and his countenance peculiarly 
sad and subdued. I found my eyes continually wandering toward 
this individual, whose manner disquieted me, for he moved about 
heavily, and as if his task was a weary one. 

After dinner the superintendent asked me if I had observed the 
waiter. 

" Yes. What is he ? Who is he ?" 

" The richest man in Eastern Paraguay. He has a very large, 
well-stocked estancia." 

" And yet is here as a servant?" 

" Yes- he was guilty of the ungallant act of whipping a wom- 
an, and the President has degraded him to be a servant at the 
Iron Works. He will, at last, liberate himself only by paying a 
large sum, or its equivalent in cattle." 

So much for the rights of women and the summary administra- 
tion of the law. 

The next morning, after a cup of coffee — an unusual luxury in 
Paraguay — we continued our journey. The rain poured in tor- 
rents; and, thoroughly drenched, we arrived at Ibicui, unfortu- 
nately at the hour of siesta. We called first at the house of the 
juez. He was asleep, and could not be disturbed. We rode on 
to. the " Padre's;" and as I told the vaqueano that shelter must 
be found, he assumed the great responsibility of having the rev- 
erend gentleman awakened, and we were shown by his orders to 
a vacant house. The horses were turned into the plaza to graze ; 
and the vaqueano, who went in search of supplies, returned fol- 
lowed by a woman who undertook to cook a supper of asado and 
pucharo. Then slinging up hammocks, or settling ourselves upon 
the brick floor, with saddles and ponchos for bedding, we prepared 
to spend the night. Ibicui was one of the few places at which we 
met with inhospitable treatment ; and this I attributed to our un- 



238 PRODUCT^ AND EXPORTS. 

fortunate arrival at the time of siesta. One might arouse a Par- 
aguayan at any hour of the night, and find him good-natured; 
but at the hour of siesta, never. 

The next morning we left this village, the position of which, 
at the base of the Sierra Tatuqua, a truncated cone, was very 
beautiful. Traveling through a fine campo, watered by the small 
stream Canavaz, we reached the house of Senora Maria Patrone 
Aldena, where we breakfasted. From this place our 'road lay 
through a narrow valley, hemmed in on either side by high 
mountains, their low ridges covered with the adobe houses, or 
thatched huts, of a comparatively dense population. Passing the 
Pueblo Paraguayri — the nearest approach we had yet made to 
our outward-bound route — we arrived for the night at a govern- 
ment posta, and with difficulty obtained provision for man or 
beast. Our next and last day's journey to Asuncion, 45 miles, 
was through a fertile, populous, rolling country, with magnificent 
forests. The soil is sandy. 

I had now, by a circuitous route, traveled 600 miles, through 
what was represented to me as the most populous districts of 
Paraguay, and found them every where abounding in natural re- 
sources. Science has made no progressive innovations in the 
processes of culture. The agricultural and mechanical imple- 
ments are still of the rudest description ; the plows are of wood ; 
cotton is spun and woven by hand-looms ; sugar-cane is pressed 
in wooden mills ; and cigars are manufactured by families at their 
own dwellings. The actual products are undoubtedly meagre, 
when we consider the adaptation of both soil and climate to agri- 
culture ; and yet the aggregate amount, even under the present 
primitive system, is considerable. The indigenous vegetation is 
extraordinarily prolific. Forests and plains teem with medical 
and edible plants, gums, resins, and dye-stuffs. Many woods pos- 
sess the value of metals, in their power to resist the action of 
water and atmosphere. The fibrous tissues of several abundant 
species of aloe furnish a new raw material for manufacturing en- 
terprise. The yerba, as the experiments of the Jesuits proved, 
can be grown in quantities to meet any demand. I might be 
suspected of exaggeration if I should enumerate the many articles, 
such as caoutchouc, wax, palm oil, indigo, cotton, rice, sugar, and 
coffee, that could be added as staple commodities to those named, 
as legitimately recognized in the trade of this country. Indigo, 
though cultivated to a most limited extent, might become one of 



CLIMATE AND PKODUCTIONS. 239 

the most valuable articles of export. There are several varieties 
growing wild, and their quality, so far as tested, seems little infe- 
rior to the cultivated plant. According to Azara, silk could be 
produced, as the mulberry is indigenous. 

Before the Eevolution the exports of Paraguay to Buenos 
Ayres and the interior provinces of La Plata reached nearly a 
million and a half of dollars. Among them were eight million 
pounds of yerba and a million pounds of tobacco. After the mo- 
nopoly of the sale of tobacco by the " Kegia" of Spain, the supply 
for the mother country fell from 15,000 to 5000 quintals. I have 
made no allusion to the culture of the sugar-cane. It grows 
readily, but receives little attention ; a few rows yield molasses 
enough for home consumption and a small quantity for exporta- 
tion. Though "yerba" is found in the humblest hut, the people 
generally prefer " mate amargo" (bitter mate). 

Though our journey was made during the last summer month, 
February, we found it warm, but not oppressive. The nights 
were uniformly pleasantly cool, and I avoided the heat of a me- 
ridional sun by stopping for siesta and dinner. The temperature 
ranged from 76° to 90° — not often above the first. These ex- 
tremes 'are produced more decidedly by the shifting of the wind 
than by a change of seasons; those from the south causing a 
rapid fall in the thermometer, while those from the equatorial 
regions produce the reverse effect and the greatest degree of heat. 
I often slept in the open air, but experienced no bad effects. The 
usual sleeping-place of both officers and crew of the Water Witch 
was on deck, under an awning, yet we had but a few cases of 
slight chills, which yielded readily to the usual medical treatment, 
and very often were escaped altogether by avoiding unnecessary 
exposure and too great indulgence in fruit. In referring to my 
journal for the months of March and April, my attention is par- 
ticularly attracted by the very great range of the thermometer 
for this latitude — 25° south. It says : 

"March 31st. 4P.M. Wind north; thermometer 80° ; cool and 
pleasant. April Mi. Yesterday and to-day, at 7 A.M., thermome- 
ter 63° ; wind northeast ; weather clear. April 7th. Thermome- 
ter 93° ; wind northeast ; weather clear." 

Such changes are sensibly felt, and would doubtless produce 
sickness were not the variations from a high to a low tempera- 
ture of very short continuance. 

In no part of Paraguay that I visited, not even at Asuncion, 



240 COTTON.— SCENEKY. 

could a physician find full occupation or obtain a maintenance. 
When at the capital, the surgeon of the Water Witch was occa- 
sionally sent for ; but he made no charge, not even the established 
one of twelve and a half cents the visit. So unusual is such at- 
tendance that, when he gave a prescription, he was frequently 
questioned by the patient or a member of the family as to the 
price of the medicine. 

There is little individual wealth. The property of the richest 
man would scarcely bring $50,000. But there are few or none 
positively needy ; for Nature, with wondrous bounty, supplies the 
necessities of her children almost without exertion, and the com- 
forts essential to health under the seasonal vicissitudes of other 
latitudes are here unnecessary. The principal exports at present 
are yerba, tobacco, oranges, mandioca (converted into starch and 
sweetmeats), ground-nuts, molasses, cana, and rum. It will be ob- 
served that cotton is not enumerated, and yet Ulloa says, in speak- 
ing of the resources of Paraguay: "Cotton contributes consider- 
ably to their riches, growing here in such quantities that every 
little village gathers of it annually above two thousand arobas, 
and the industrious are very ingenious in weaving it into stuffs 
for exportation." Both climate and soil are admirably adapted to 
its growth ; but the low rate at which merchants are enabled 
profitably to introduce the foreign manufactured article, which 
now, in value, exceeds the aggregate amount of all other importa- 
tions, has caused the abandonment of its culture. The retail price 
of domestic cottons, previously to the opening of the rivers, va- 
ried, according to its quality, from fifty cents to one dollar and 
fifty cents per yard. Now the foreign article sells from 6J to 20 
cents, and the raw product, in very small quantities, for 12J cents 
the pound, in the seed. It is spun with the distaff, woven in hand- 
looms, worked into embroidered skirts and house-linen, which are 
sold abroad only as specimens of Paraguayan handiwork. 

I can convey no faithful impression of the beauty of the face 
of the country. It presents throughout, from river to river, the 
most varied physical features ; fine alternations of mountains, 
forests, and plains. The lofty Mbenaypey, crowned by primeval 
forests, and the Ytagua with its truncated cone, though but hil- 
locks compared with the majestic eminences of the Andean range, 
are imposing objects in the mountain system. Through whole 
districts the sierras are covered by forests of gigantic trees, and 
slope by rounded wooded hills to the broad sunlit plains, which 



GOVERNMENT AND THE PEOPLE. 241 

were every where brilliant with verdure, and intersected by peren- 
nial streams. The hill-sides were enlivened by the habitations of 
a numerous population, and the plains were covered by herds and 
flocks, which, with the approach of night, could be seen seeking 
the protection of corrals that dotted the campos. We saw no 
sterile wastes. The whole land seemed to be enriched by the 
vegetable tribes of tropical and temperate zones. The air was 
laden at times with the rich odors of orange blossoms and aromatic 
shrubs ; and yet the climate there, as in every part of the basin of 
La Plata that I visited, is free from the humidity and excessive 
heat, which, in other sections of this continent, exhaust the powers 
of man, or increase those of nature beyond his control. All that 
fine country is occupied by a people simple, kind, and hospitable. 
Thefts are not unfrequent, but a higher degree of crime is rare. 
The administration of President Lopez is, so far as I could learn, 
unstained by bloodshed. Though the Paraguayans groaned for a 
quarter of a century under the sanguinary tyranny of Francia, 
they have been saved from the demoralizing civil contests that 
have almost depopulated other states of La Plata. 

But let not this beauty or fertility tempt foreigners to enter Par- 
aguay for permanent occupation without the protection of treat- 
ies. The government owns three fourths of the land, and has nu- 
merous estancias ; yet when beef is required for the army or public 
laborers, it not unfrequently draws on the stock of a private es- 
tate, allowing the owner half the value of each hide, for which he 
must receive, as payment, one third in paper* money, one third in 
cotton goods, and the remainder in silver. Store-houses are also 
established in every district. These are another source of public 
revenue ; but they interfere at the same time with individual 
rights. The commandantes of partidos are but the stewards or 
agents of the principal merchant, the sub- venders of government 
stock in cattle and goods. 

The period of the presidential election was approaching (the 
4th of March, 1854), but among the members of the new Congress 
I missed our hospitable friend Senor Vasconcellos. He is, I pre- 
sume, too independent in his views to please the party in power, 
and upon second thoughts was permitted to stay at home. I was 
anxious to be present at the sittings of the National Legislature, 
but to my inquiry, "Will strangers be admitted?" I received 
only a mysterious shrug of the shoulders, and a " No se, Senor" 

* Equivalent to specie. 

16 



242 MEETING OF CONGRESS. 

(I don't know, sir). I intended to ask the President, but it was 
intimated to me that the request would not be acceptable, as none 
of the citizens were allowed to enter. His Excellency presided 
in person, and read a well-written message, afterward published, 
which gave, or professed to give, a minute history of the country 
since the last Congress in 1849. He represented in strong lan- 
guage its prosperity, which, with consummate tact, he attributed 
not so much to the ability of the executive as to the wisdom of 
the honorable Eepresentatives. They had not met to legislate. 
His Excellency relieves them of that responsibility. So, dutifully 
giving their votes without a dissenting voice, after a sitting of three 
days they adjourned sine die. 

One member had moved a resolution to make the President 
Emperor, with the honor hereditary in his family. This he wisely 
declined. In grasping the shadow he might have lost the reality. 
He is de facto Emperor, and the succession is probably secured to 
his son. The struggles of the Eevolution are perhaps not forgot- 
ten, and imperial or royal titles might alarm even the simple 
Paragua}^ans. 

I asked the President, on one occasion, if he could furnish me 
with a copy of their constitution, alleging, as a reason for the re- 
quest, my ignorance of the existence of any such state paper, and 
my desire to become acquainted with the fundamental law on 
which their government was based. With some hesitation, he 
replied, "The constitution is not complete; it is now under re- 
vision." I had before made attempts to procure a copy, but 
without success ; indeed, all my efforts to obtain information as to 
the state of the country were met by a timid hesitancy. I really 
believe that the habit of unquestioning submission is so fixed 
that few know themselves how they are governed. Still without 
political aspirations, as in the time of Francia, they humbly, and 
seemingly with confidence, confer upon the President the admin- 
istration of all political affairs, a power the present incumbent is 
as prompt in taking upon himself as he is unscrupulous in its ex- 
ercise. " Bandos" are issued as occasions call for them, having a 
retrospective as well as prospective bearing. 

The following table gives the exports from Asuncion during 
the year 1854 : 



EXPORTS FROM ASUNCION. 



243 



Yerba 

Tobacco 

Cigars 

Timber 

Raw hides 

Tanned hides 

Horse-hair 

Tan-bark , 

Starch 

Oranges 

Sweetmeats 

Molasses 

Sugar 

Sugar-cane , 

Rum 

Maize (corn) ..... 

Rice 

Beans 

Meal (mandioca). 

Ground-nuts 

Algarrobilla 

Paddles../ 

Bamboos 

Lime 

Earthenware 



85,676 

103,868 

5,264 

30,313 

38,957 

15,566 

3,205 

15,920 

23,325 

266,893 

29,588 

30,668 

7 

35,600 

12,534 

29,992 

54 

3,394 

706 

6,264 

775 

196 

3,724 

( 200 

) 1 



arobas. 

thousand. 

varas. 

pesadas. 

hides. 

arobas. 



almudas. 

arobas. 

asumbres. 

arobas. 

canes. 

frascas. 

almudas. 

arobas. 



dozens. 

fanegas ( = 
2 almudas). 



Total amount of exports in 1854.. 

" " 1853.. 

" " " 1852.. 

" " " 1851.. 



$282,489 

148,164 

12,568 

49,050 

156,287 

66,650 

9,833 

2,719 

10,596 

11,288 

19,086 

1,279 

20 

53 

3,168 

597 

17 

984 

179 

1,164 

96 

472 

235 

I 500 

63 



5777,557 
691,932 
474,499 
341,380 



Number of vessels that 
arrived in Asuncion during 
the year 1854 was 160, 
with about 8000 tons ; of 
which 2 were British, 31 
Paraguayan, 116 Argen- 
tine, and 11 Oriental. 

The export duty is 10 
per cent, on almost every 
article, excepting starch, 
which pays 6 per cent. 

Of the exports of 1854, 
82,882 arobas of yerba, 
2074 pesadas of raw hides, 
52,670 varas of timber, and 
311 arobas of horse-hair, 
paid no duty, being ex- 
ported or sold by the gov- 
ernment. 

The value of these articles 
is about $300,000, leaving 
only about $477, 800 worth 
of produce exported by 
the trade, making a bal- 
ance against the market 
of $222,500, assuming 
$700,000 as the actual 
value of the imports. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Expedition under Geronimo Metorras. — Colonel Arrias. — Murillo and Lapa. — 
Colonel Ariadne Cornejo. — Don Pablo Soria. — Steamer Pilcomayo. — Lieutenant 
Powell instructed to enter the Interior of Paraguay. — Want of Game and Fish. 
— Force of the Current. — Tobas Indians. — Nacurutu. — Palms. — Rio Saco. — De 
loi Carui. — Visit to the Toldo — Paso da Lurbi. — River ascended one hundred 
and twenty Miles. — Channel. — Descending a Cascade. — A Hunt with Dr. Car- 
ter. — Lost. — Signals. — The Howitzer replies. — Safe Return. — Descending the 
River. — Mr. Hickman. — Letter from Mr. Dana. 

Our next field of operation was the Vermejo River. Even up 
to the last quarter of the eighteenth century the spirit of enter- 
prise which distinguished the early Spanish settlers was not dis- 
sipated ; and the navigation of the Yermejo — supposed to offer a 
communication between the eastern and western borders of the 
viceregal governments of Peru and La Plata — became a subject 
of absorbing interest to many of the most intelligent of the Span- 
ish colonists. 

Senor Don Geronimo Metorras, Governor of Tucuman, which 
then embraced a large portion of the territory now known as the 



24A EARLY EXPLORATIONS OF THE VERMEJO. 

Argentine Confederation, was the last and most successful explor- 
er by land in that part of the Chaco through which the Yermejo 
flows. His object was to establish, if possible, a friendly under- 
standing with the numerous Indians living upon or frequenting 
its borders, from Salta to Corrientes, and thence, by the Parana, 
to open a communication between the former town and Buenos 
Ayres. 

In 1774 he began this exploration, escorted by one hundred 
and ninety-six Indians, under the command of Don Francisco 
Grabino Arrias, a colonel of the army. He followed the right 
bank of the river for two hundred and forty leagues ; received no 
annoyance from the savages, but was induced by a council of his 
escort to abandon the further prosecution of the enterprise when 
he was, according to his own estimate, within sixty leagues of 
Corrientes. This success inspired him with confidence in the 
practicability of forming new reductions, and opening a safe pas- 
sage through the Chaco from east to west. He died 1 when his 
hopes were most buoyant. His successor, Colonel Arrias — a man 
of great force of character, and fully imbued with that spirit of 
enterprise which had distinguished his predecessor — continued 
the work, and the following year formed two "reductions" among 
the Tobas and Macobi tribes; one of these at the "Lake of 
Pearls," and the other at Cangaye, both in the vicinity of the 
river. In an incredibly short time several thousand Indians were 
assembled at those places, under the " banner of the cross and the 
tuition of the church." 

In 1778 these successes were followed up by two Franciscan 
friars, Murillo and Lapa, who, in a canoe, and accompanied by 
only four men, floated down the Yermejo from the junction of the 
Senta to the new reductions. This exploration was continued in 
1781 by Colonel Arrias, who, with a large escort, in a number of 
canoes, descended throughout the remainder of the river to its 
junction with the Paraguay, and thence to Corrientes. Journals 
of these expeditions were kept, and transmitted to the Viceroy of 
Buenos Ayres, who carefully buried them. It was in vain that 
Arrias urged the opening of this river communication through 
the Chaco. His entreaties were disregarded; but so impressed 
was he with its importance, that before his death he enjoined 
upon his son to carry out the work in which he had so zealously 
labored. 

These efforts were followed by several others for civilizing, or 



EXPEDITIONS OF CORNEJO AND SORIA. 245 

rather subjugating the Indians , but no farthei attempt was made 
to verify the navigability of the Vermejo until 1790, when Colonel 
Adriane Cornejo, a citizen of Salta, accompanied by thirty persons, 
descended in a boat from the junction of the Senta to its mouth, a 
distance, according to his own estimate, which is probably exag- 
gerated, of four hundred leagues. The account of this descent, 
accomplished in fifty-five days, during the months of July and 
August, is more authentic and detailed than that of any that pre- 
ceded or followed. The navigation was reported as practicable 
throughout, and the Indians as having exhibited no hostile spirit. 

No farther attempt was made under the colonial government 
to open this river. The reductions upon its borders were aban- 
doned, though, as may be well understood, the civilization of the 
savages and the addition of their territory to the viceregal gov- 
ernments were measures freighted with honor and profit to Spain. 

In 1826, and at the season before chosen by Cornejo — July and 
August — Don Pablo Soria, the agent of an association in Buenos 
Ayres, set out in a boat fifty-two feet long and of two feet draught. 
He descended the Yermejo in fifty-seven days, from Senta to its 
junction with the Paraguay, where he was entrapped by the sol-, 
diers of the opposite guardia. His papers were taken from him, 
and he was sent a prisoner to Asuncion, where he was detained 
five years by Francia. His journal, which had been kept with 
great care, was never returned to him ; and the only record known 
of it is a narrative and map, drawn from memory, five years later, 
when the commander, having been liberated, returned to Buenos 
Ayres. He describes the descent as having been attended with no 
obstacles or difficulties except such as arose from the hostilities of 
the Indians. 

Such had been the expeditions down the Yermejo when we 
made the attempt to ascend it. The accounts given of them, 
though vague and unsatisfactory as to the peculiar characteristics 
of the river, agreed somewhat in representing the current as " muy 
manso" (very gentle). Nothing is said as to the means used to 
test its velocity, and it is easy to understand the origin and con- 
tinuance of this error. Those parties only floated down, and, 
dreading or actually pursued by hostile Indians, we can imagine 
their anxiety to. move a little faster. The current was only too 
sluggish for their impatience. 

So soon as the necessary arrangements could be made, after the 
arrival of the Water Witch from Montevideo, I went on board the 



246 



THE STEAMER PILCOMAYO. 



Pilcomayo, and on the 18th May, 1854, started for the Vermejo, 
accompanied by the following officers : Acting Lieutenant Gr. P. 
Welsh, Acting Master W. H. Murdaugh, Passed Midshipman E. 
"W. Henry, Assistant Surgeon Kobert Carter, Third Assistant En- 
gineer Stump, and a crew of eighteen men. 

The boat, built of the cedar of Paraguay, was sixty-five feet in 
length, fourteen feet beam, twenty-three inches draught, flat bot- 
tom, depth of hold three feet, deck laid in hatches, sides of deck- 
house of half-inch cedar boards to the height of five feet, and cov- 
ered with painted canvas. Upon this deck the officers and men 




STEAMER PILCOMAYO AND PARAGUAY GtfAKDIA. 



slept. A table, four feet by two and a half, on movable legs, 
served on one side as a drawing-board, while on the other we took 
our meals. The seats, which were boxes fourteen inches square, 
served as lockers for clothes. Two small high-pressure engines 
of six-inch cylinders, eighteen inches stroke, with two locomotive 
boilers, which proved worthless, and wheels of twelve feet diame- 
ter, constituted the propelling power. Such were our equipments. 

Judging from the performance of the little craft, which had 
been tried several times in the Paraguay off Asuncion, I supposed 
she could make five knots hi slack water, and, anticipating a cur- 
rent u muy manso" we started upon the work in fine spirts. 

I instructed Lieutenant Powell to visit, in my absence, an in- 
teresting section of Paraguay, embracing a part of the "Yerbales," 
to observe the process of gathering the leaves and preparing the 



ASCENT OF THE VERMEJO. 247 

yerba, and to note the cultivation and general resources of that 
quarter of the republic. He was also directed to determine the 
geographical positions of the principal points in his route ; and, in 
returning, to re-determine those in the interior, the positions of 
which, on account of the accident to the instruments during my 
journey, were unsatisfactory. Extracts from his report will be 
found in the Appendix. 

The Water Witch remained at Asuncion to undergo extensive 
repairs to her engine and wheels', notwithstanding those so recently 
put upon her at Montevideo. 

With four months' rations for twenty-four persons, ten tons of 
coal, and one and a half cords of wood, we entered the Vermejo, 
May 22d, 1854. 

Expecting to find the river and adjacent country teeming with 
animal life, I thought I had made unnecessary provision for food, 
but I was mistaken. What may be the resources in this respect 
of the upper and middle sections of the Vermejo I can not say, 
but up to the point of our ascent — one hundred and twenty -two 
miles — there was little game, and very few fish. At one place 
only — the mouth of a small tributary stream, which I afterward 
named " Acacia Eiver" — we saw a great number offish. 

The scarcity of game is doubtless owing to the hordes of neigh- 
boring savages, who subsist by the chase. Their skill with the 
bow and arrow and with the lance is extraordinary, and a vast 
number of skins of various animals are annually sold by the more 
civilized of them at Corrientes. 

The mouth of the Yermejo is marked by no striking peculiari- 
ties. Its banks are low, and covered with a stunted scattering 
growth. After advancing three or four miles, we found, on either 
side, an older formation, and fine skirts of curupayna, curupay, 
algarroba, and espinilla; while beyond, inland, was the pampa, 
with its usual characteristics in this latitude — palms and grass. 
For a few miles the river maintains a width of from one to three 
hundred yards, with a depth of from twelve to eighteen feet. 
Tortuous, turbid, confined within narrow limits, we soon discover- 
ed that the current, so far from being u muy manso" was even then, 
at its near approach to low water — and from the appearance of the 
banks it had little more to fall — not less than three knots ; it would 
doubtless reach at some places from four to five. At times we 
found it impossible to stem the current, or avoid being carried 
down with it, when working with full steam, and a pressure of 



248 DIFFICULTIES AND DELAYS. 

one hundred and twenty pounds. To keep out of it was an ob- 
ject, and when this was impossible we only advanced by the aid 
of a line made fast to some tree ahead. 

In addition to the usual means for ascertaining its velocity, it 
was tested on two occasions by selecting suitable ground, meas- 
uring a base line of four hundred feet, and noting the time in 
which a chip cast upon the waters would pass from one end of 
the base to the other. They agreed within a very small fraction, 
making the current three sea-miles, or from three to four statute 
miles an hour ; and, judging from the width, uniform depth, and 
appearance of the river at those two points, I believe the current 
was there weaker than in many other places. 

Perhaps I have been more minute in dwelling upon this than 
its importance at first glance would seem to authorize ; but should 
the Vermejo become, as I believe it very soon will, a channel of 
communication with the West, upon a proper understanding of 
its currents will depend the success of the first enterprises for its 
navigation. 

It would weary the reader to follow us step by step through 
the thirty -two days of perplexing, toilsome duty in our fruitless 
attempt to ascend this river in a boat with the power of the Pil- 
comayo. I will only give some extracts from my journal for the 
benefit of those who may feel a particular interest in the subject. 
Each morning we resumed our labors, only to find with the set- 
ting sun that we had made little or no progress. 

" May 27th. Under way at 6 A.M. Soon came to anchor to get 
up steam; unable with eighty pounds to stem the current. At 
9-J- had made two miles ; saw a few ' patos reales.' Width of river 
from one to three hundred yards. On either side, grass and mag- 
nificent lofty palms. This palm timber is in demand at Corrien- 
tes, and it could easily be carried down on rafts. Made several 
ineffectual efforts to round a bend, with eighty pounds of steam. 
Our little boat went, crab-like, against the banks by the force of 
the current, and had five arms of the starboard wheel broken ; a 
vexatious accident, but one against which the utmost precaution 
will not guard us in such navigation as this. Cut from an algar- 
roba on the right bank arms for the broken wheel. This wood, 
which is as easily cut, split, and worked as Southern pine, is very 
durable, and unequaled, even in its green state, as fuel for steam- 
ers. In five hours the arms were replaced, and we were again 
under way. 



SLOW PROGRESS. 249 

"Anchored at sunset, and determined our position by stars 
north and south, east and west. Our men have thus far failed to 
catch fish with the seine or line. Shot five pavos del monte — 
mountain turkeys — a delicious bird. Nothing could be more ac- 
ceptable, as our breakfast for some days has been hominy and 
coffee, and our dinner pork and beans, the last a diet of which 
even sailors tire when forced to live upon it for many days con- 
secutively. 

u 29th. Creeping along, we keep as much as possible out of the 
current. Banks rise abruptly twenty-five feet, presenting strata 
of argillaceous earth, estuary mud, and reddish clay, with a sur- 
face soil from one to two feet in depth. Whenever they rise to 
the same height, the formation is very uniform. Several mounted 
Indians have presented themselves on the right bank. They 
manifest a friendly disposition, and say they belong to the Tobas 
tribe. They are fine-looking men, without paint or covering ex- 
cept a piece of cloth around the loins, and are armed with bows, 
arrows, and lances. They subsist by the chase and fishing, and 
hold some communication with Corrientes, where they dispose of 
their skins, principally those of the jaguar, deer, and nutria. We 
gave them tobacco, fish-hooks, and a few trinkets, with which they 
were pleased. But, much to our astonishment, the steamer seem- 
ed to awaken among them neither fear nor curiosity. 

" 30th. Made four and a* half miles this day, and have been 
compelled to stop four times to get up sufficient steam to stem the 
current. We started with one hundred and twenty pounds, and 
as soon as it worked down to eighty we were obliged to anchor. 
Weather cloudy, with rain at intervals. 

" Slst. Eeached Nacurutii, a small, thickly- wooded island, rising 
thirty feet above the water. A good channel on either side, the 
eastern being the deeper. In nine days our efforts to advance 
have been unflagging, and yet we have made but thirty-five 
miles. Saw to-day a jaguar on the banks, but he escaped before 
we were within shooting distance ; also a few motus and pavos del 
monte. We have made two and a half miles ; this is encourag- 
ing. I am disappointed in the scarcity of flora, animals, and birds. 
Anchored for the night near the island in a heavy rain, accom- 
panied with thunder and lightning." 

During this ascent of the Yermejo it was the habit of the offi- 
cers at our stoppages to " get up steam" to go on shore in search 
of specimens. From the aspect of the country one might suppose 



250 PALM FORESTS. 

it a tolerable field ; but we met with poor success. We saw only 
a limited number of the small partridge, moving always in pairs — 
the habit also of the larger species, of which there were very few. 
It is probable that many are annually destroyed by the habit the 
Indians have of firing the grass, a few months after which the 
pampas present the appearance of fine wheat-fields in May. 

" June 1. Weather misty. Underway at 6 A.M.; at 10 A.M. 
had stopped three times to get up steam. Channel contracted 
somewhat by imbedded drift-wood. While at anchor I went 
ashore, and, passing through the woods that skirted the banks, 
found myself on the borders of the pampa, with a boundless ex- 
tension of palms — those ' kings among grasses' — before me." 

It was a vast temple to the Living God, that palm forest, with 
its long aisles and noble colonnades; its symmetrical columnar 
trunks rising to the height of more than seventy feet, with their 
feathery-foliaged capitals. The plain from which they sprung 
was unbroken by the smallest inequality except the conical 
structures of the ant, rising some three or four feet in every di- 
rection above the grass. Though this fair region has a varied 
zoology, and is the domain of fierce unsubjugated nomads, scarce 
the buzz of an insect was heard; not a form of animated life 
crossed my path. Yet the whole aspect of nature was indescrib- 
ably cheerful. There were pleasant illusions, too, of picturesque 
villages ; for, as we turned from the palms and followed the 
course of the river, marked by its wooded belt, in the varying 
height of branching trees we descried houses, pointed roofs, and 
miradores, so sharply defined that it was impossible to believe 
them unreal. What a crowning glory the palm forests offer to 
the vegetable system of this basin of La Plata ! The varieties seen 
by us in the last few months would furnish supplies of nourishing 
farinaceous food, drink, medicine, arms, lodging, and clothing, to 
a vast population. We have seen them, not in patches, or groves, 
or park-like groupings, but in vast forests, extending many miles 
upon the rivers, and inland far beyond the reach of the eye. 

" In this Yermejo pampa, though the palms are extraordinary 
in size and beauty, the variety in the species is appparently 
limited; but, owing to varied professional duties, my investiga- 
tions into all subjects pertaining to natural history are at best 
superficial ; and so teeming is the wealth of unexplored nature in 
La Plata that each department would furnish a study for years, 
or for a long life. 



PATIENCE AND TO-MORKOW. 253 

" The position of the Eio Saco, as given on Descalzi's map, 
near the Island Nacarutu, is erroneous. There is no trace what- 
ever of a river at that place. Sixteen miles above there is the 
dry bed of a very small stream, which, during the seasons of rain, 
may be a river, or have the appearance of one, for the waters of 
the Yermejo would back into it. 

" June 4:th. Had a talk with a group of Indians — men, women, 
and children. In stature and form the women are inferior to the 
men, and are much disfigured by tattooing, which is their prepara- 
tion for marriage. Some of the men sported old cloth jackets, 
picked up probably in their trade with Corrientes, but the women 
and children were entirely naked except a piece of cloth about 
the middle. They had a few sheep, which they drive from place 
to place as they move their toldos. 

" 10 A.M. Anchored, with forty-five pounds of steam, unable 
to stem the current ; though not exposed to its strength, we had 
worked down from one hundred and twenty pounds. Again un- 
der way at 11 5 A.M., with one hundred and twenty pounds of 
steam. Worked down to forty -five; throttle closed as much as 
possible. At 1 50, under way ; in twenty minutes at anchor for 
want of steam. How can headway be made at this rate ? Ee- 
mained at anchor one hour and a half; moved twenty minutes, 
making each time from two to four hundred yards, and now and 
then dashing into the bank, when off would fly from two to four 
arms of the wheels. Hoping for better times, we will not give it 
up yet. ' Paciencia y manana?* 

"June 6th. Stopped to communicate with a number of Tobas 
Indians, who appeared on the banks, mounted on fine horses." 
The cacique " de Soi Carui" seemed to be regarded with profound 
respect by the whole party. He was dressed in a blue jacket, 
scarlet trowsers, and red conical cloth cap, measuring about 
eighteen inches in height, and having on its front a brass plate, 
with the motto of Eosas, " Murien los salvages Unitarios /" (Death 
to the savage Unitarians !) I sent a boat for him, and with a few 
attendants he came on board. " The Tobas live in toldos, which 
they move at pleasure ; for they possess neither cattle nor sheep, 
and subsist by the chase and fishing. They mentioned a tribe of 
Indians some distance west, rarely seen by the white man, who 
have the hair and color of the negro. "f 

* "Patience and to-morrow!"— the Spanish cure for all ills of disappointment. 
t At Asuncion I was informed that there existed in the northeastern part of 
Paraguay a tribe of caudated savages. 



254 INDIANS. 

"While wooding, I pulled ahead a short distance in the boat. 
The river is very tortuous, and seems to have undergone great 
changes.- At one place it had formerly coursed in a semicircle, 
cutting into the left bank, while a point of land from the opposite 
side projected a considerable distance into this semicircular bend, 
at right angles to the course of the stream above. The action 
of the current had severed this neck from the main land, and, 
leaving the curve for the more direct course, had formed shoals 
at each end, which, with' accumulated deposits, had in time joined 
the island to the opposite main land, and made one unbroken 
bank, leaving in the abandoned bed of the river a crescent-shaped 
lake of clear water.* 

I landed near two Indians, who were fishing. They manifest- 
ed no alarm, and gave me some nutria skins, which they called 
chiquisi. I offered them in return a few cigars, the only thing I 
had with me. The formation of the banks and the face of the 
country are unvarying, so far. From time to time bodies of 
mounted Indians, or small groups engaged in fishings are seen. 

The zoology of this'pampa differs very little from that of the 
shores of the Paraguay. "We have seen the jaguar, capibara, 
deer, nutria, and in a few instances the tracks of the tapir. The 
noise of our high-pressure engine may have driven some animals 
into the interior, but I think the scarcity may be ascribed to the 
skill and activity of the Indian hunters, and the traffic in skins 
carried on with Corrientes. The algarroba and espinilla are 
abundant upon the banks, but the flora — principally creepers — 
offers no new species. 

"13$. Another party of mounted Indians were seen on the 
right bank. They resemble physically those before seen, and are 
indeed of the same tribe. Eeceived an invitation to visit their 
toldo, distant some miles from the river. Three officers and five 
men accompanied me, and after a tramp through the long grass 
we reached their habitations, a collection of hide and grass sheds, 
closed only upon the south side. In this toldo were five men, 
as many women, and ten children. The women were prepar- 
ing the seed of the caraguatay, an important item of food with 
them. It resembles parched corn, and is not a bad substitute 
when roasted. They gave us fruit of the algarroba and guayca- 

* Ly ell's description of the curves of the Mississippi — "Principles of Geology," 
p. 212 — could not illustrate more truly the above and similar changes in the Ver- 
mejo had it been designed for them. 



INDIAN MANUFACTUKES. 255 

rurembayu, as it is called in Guarami, but these savages call it 
loquerai. They reduce the first to a fibrous powder, and find it 
so nutritious that it will alone sustain them on a march of many 
days. Mixed with the meal of parched corn it makes an excel- 
lent article of food, which is much used in the province of Santia- 
go. These Indians had a few sheep and chickens ; but they pre- 
fer horse-flesh to beef, and mules to either. A quantity of the 
former, cut in long thin slips, was hung up to dry. We gave 
them hatchets, knives, and a few yards of cotton cloth, in ex- 
change for two sheep and some chickens. The former, in size 
and quality, were fully equal to any I had seen in Buenos Ayres 
or Entre Eios. 

" All the women wore about the middle a piece of woolen cloth, 
blue, white, and red. The yarn is spun with the distaff, and very 
well done. It is woven by fastening the warp at each end to a 
stick, and confining it horizontally by four others driven into the 
ground. The woof is passed between the threads by a shuttle of 
the rudest contrivance, and driven into its place by the blows of a 
flat board. Such is their primitive mode of making what appear- 
ed a coarse but durable article. The colors were particularly 
bright. 

" One mile above this the banks rise twenty -five feet, showing 
a deep stratum of ferruginous clay, #nd a sandy loam. 

" A nest, built eight feet below the surface, and exposed by the 
caving in of the bank, gave us a curious evidence of the instinct 
and intelligence of the bee. A little beyond this I saw a vein of 
small fresh-water fossil shells, Planorbis, in a stratum of sandy 
mould, and on the opposite bank, imbedded horizontally, and 
projecting fifteen feet, was the trunk of a large tree twenty inches 
in diameter, hollow, and much worn on the outer side, leaving a 
shell -Q.YQ inches thick. It lay about twenty feet from the sur- 
face, and seventeen above the level of the river, in a stratum of 
sandy clay. It was so hard that for some time it resisted the axe. 
Again saw three other imbedded trees; the first lying horizon- 
tally in dark argillaceous earth, five feet from the surface ; the 
second standing vertically; and the third twenty feet under 
ground, lying horizontally, the roots projecting from the banks. 

" 19th. Came to a pass, a narrow rocky reef, tosca, extending 
across the river, having on it a depth of three feet, with deep wa- 
ter immediately above and below. 

" This, I presume, is the ' Paso da Lurbi' of Descalzi's map, 



256 INDIAN EISHEKY. 

for it approaches more nearly to his description of it than any 
thing I have seen, although it does not correspond in position, 
which is, according to our determination, in latitude 26° 12' south, 
longitude 59° 38' west; variation 10° 52' east. Many physical 
changes have doubtless taken place since Soria's descent of the 
Vermejo in 1826. 

"23d. While wooding the vessel I pulled ahead and saw two 
Indians fishing ; they were alarmed, and moved off when they saw 
us ; but I reassured them by calling out ' Amigo /' They stopped, 
and as we approached one of them said piteously, ' Mi amigo, mi 
malo?* I administered a few cigars, which had an instantaneous 
and salutary effect upon the frame and nerves of the poor savage, 
who, in return, insisted upon my acceptance of two large cat-fish. 
In their trade with Corrientes some have picked up a few words 
of Spanish, and ' amigo'' would probably be found, on all occa- 
sions, a safe pass-word with them. 

" They exhibit both skill and ingenuity in their modes of fish- 
ing. A wattling breakwater is extended from the shore for about 
six feet, at a right angle to the current, forming a small space of 
slack water below it. Here the fish resort to avoid the current, 
and are caught by the well-baited hooks of the Indians. Again, 
they shoot them with the bow and arrow, and generally with un- 
erring aim. % 

"May 2±th. Latitude 26° 10' 09" south, longitude 59° 39' 08" 
west. We have ascended the river by its course one hundred and 
twenty -two geographical miles; the aggregate distance, by the 
various points of observation, of which there were nine, being 
eighty -three, and in a right line seventy-six. Having persevered 
for thirty-two days, at an average of less than four miles per day, 
and not made more than one tenth of the distance I anticipated 
in this time, I have determined to return, make some changes in 
the boat, and additions to the steam space of the boilers ; their 
defects being the cause of all this toil and disappointment. The 
failure of the attempt, and the experience gained, only give me 
confidence in the practicability of ascending this river with a 
steamer of suitable construction and ordinary power. 

" Though there may be sections of the Vermejo where the wa- 
ters on either side expand into lagoons, wherever confined by 
high banks, the current is rapid, and those expecting to navigate 
this river must not be deceived by the l muy mansd 1 of Spanish 

* I am a friend, I am sick ! 



THE VEEMEJO. 257 

Americans, an expression they use lightly on all occasions. Our 
dear-bought experience in thirty days' work is sufficient proof of 
the difficulties of the navigation. Nor is it probable that they 
decrease in advancing; for it can now through no country pre- 
senting a more unbroken level than this. 

" Our examination shows a current from 3 to 3f sea miles the 
hour, or from 3J to 4J statute miles, and at some points an in- 
crease upon this : a force to meet which the defective machinery 
of our little boat is not equal. ■ 

"We have advanced some distance above the ' passes' (the ' Paso 
de Lurbi' and ' Salta de Iso') mentioned by Soria, as offering the 
principal and only obstacles to the navigation at low water. The 
river has ceased falling, and I can discover no trace of the latter 
point, and but a faint correspondence with his description of the 
Paso de Lurbi, which may be accounted for by the great physical 
changes constantly going on." 

The least depth in the channel was three feet; and the esti- 
mated rise, judging from unmistakable marks on banks and 
trees, was ten. The season of least water is July and August, 
which continues until the rains of November in the region of its 
source and those of its tributaries. I have before mentioned that it 
was impossible to obtain any data relative to the Yermejo, therefore 
its periodical changes beyond what I actually observed are un- 
known to me ; and to repeat what has been given at various times 
as positive and reliable information would mislead others as it did 
me. The physical changes to which I have alluded, as occurring 
within a few years in the Parana, will explain those of the Yer- 
mejo in a quarter of a century. The simple fact of its having wa- 
ter at all seasons for vessels of two and a half feet draught, must 
set at rest any anxiety about its rise and fall, inasmuch as few 
would care to navigate it with a greater draught were its depth 
twenty feet throughout. The advantage gained at high water 
would be a slight increased width of the channel, which would, 
however, be counteracted by the increased velocity of current ; at 
other seasons obstructions, such as trees fallen or imbedded in the 
bottom, would be exposed to view. 

"We made our mark at the point of return by felling a noble 
algarroba, measuring three feet through the stump, from which 
the little Pilcomayo was loaded with fuel to her utmost capacity, 
leaving a good supply for the next party of explorers, and hoping 
it would be our own. 

17 



258 DESCENT OF THE VERMEJO. 

On the 25th we commenced the descent, and fonr miles below 
anchored to examine a small tributary stream from the left, to 
which I have before alluded. Accompanied by some of the offi- 
cers, I followed the bank on foot, while Lieutenant Henry, with 
two men in the dingie, entered its mouth. The current was there 
strong, and a hundred yards beyond, a fall of about three feet pre- 
sented itself, with rapids extending a hundred yards — a foot for 
every ten. One of the boys in the boat, hearing the noise, turned 
to Mr. Henry, and said laughingly, " That looks, sir, as if it would 
stop us." "It will take more than that to stop us," replied the 
officer, and over the stern he sprang, in mud and water to the 
waist. The men followed his example, and, by great exertion, they 
drew the boat up the little cascade and through the rapids into 
the comparatively still water beyond. Mr. Henry again took the 
tiller, the boys the oars, and they continued the ascent for a mile 
or two. The sluggish current above the rapids, and the general 
appearance of this stream induced the belief that it had its source 
in some neighboring lagoon; that it was, in fact, the river de- 
scribed by Cornejo as flowing from a lake five miles from the Yer- 
mejo. The water was limpid and sweet. 

We determined to return in the boat, thinking the pleasurable 
sensation of gliding down the cascade would be worth a capsize. 
On both banks were large acacia trees in full blossom, their 
branches in many places meeting and forming a bower over the 
water. The whole atmosphere was filled with their delicious 
perfume. It was, in truth, a scene of rich beauty. Gliding be- 
yond this lovely avenue, with Mr. Henry, oar in hand, in the 
stern, and one of the boys in the bow, we dashed into the rapids. 
The little craft went like a shot, " straight on end," and in an in- 
stant we were pitching at an angle of forty -five degrees down the 
cascade. The boat seemed to be turning " end for end." Her 
bows went under, but in another moment she glided gracefully 
into the current beyond, and we quickly passed into the Yermejo, 
through numberless fish, among which were the golden dorado, 
leaping and dashing about as if defying the skill of our men, who 
were in vain trying to bait a mess. They were dainty, sensible 
dorados, wisely preferring the delicate provision brought down 
from Acacia River, as I shall call this stream, to the " salt grub" 
of the Pilcomayo. After some hours of angling, a few cat-fish 
alone rewarded our patience by taking to the pork baits. 

The next day we made little progress. A short time after get- 



LOST ON THE PAMPA. 259 

ting under way, the boat became unmanageable and was carried 
by the force of the current against a snag, from which she was 
with difficulty extricated. After getting off, it was too late to 
fire up, and I determined to pass the hour before sunset on shore 
with my gun. 

Dr. Carter and myself started off, marking the point of our de- 
parture from the bank opposite the boat by what we considered 
easily recognizable objects ; but in the sameness of the woods 
skirting the river, not found again so readily as one might sup- 
pose. After walking some distance, occasionally turning to mark 
the starting-point — a clump of lofty trees — our attention was at- 
tracted by a vast number of birds very like plover, and apparent- 
ly confining their movements to a low marshy piece of ground 
some distance before us. We forgot starting-point and courses 
in the pleasurable excitement offered by this shooting-ground. 
It was a wild-goose chase. The birds, like the fish of Acacia 
Eiver, were too wary for us. At last we looked back for the 
clump of trees. It was undistinguishable, and there was not the 
smallest object to indicate our position or that of the boat. By 
our own estimate we were one or two miles from the river, with 
grass two feet high to tramp through, the shades of night upon 
us, and the comforting thought of savages and wild beasts for 
neighbors. 

When we reached the Yermejo it was night, and no Pilcomayo 
was in sight. We hailed. The sound ran along the river, and 
Echo answered from the opposite bank. A second time we 
shouted, with the same response. The doctor and myself differed 
in opinion as to the position of the boat. Now following the bank 
for about half a mile, pitching occasionally over ant-hills three 
or four feet in height, with which the pampa was covered, we 
arrived at what the doctor had considered the point of our depart- 
. ure, but no Pilcomayo was there. We shouted and fired our guns. 
Again that provoking Echo responded. Jaguars and Indians 
were the only enemies we feared, but they were formidable ones, 
and might be lurking in the luxuriant grass ; and it was ques- 
tionable whether the report of our guns would invite or deter the 
approach of these inhabitants of the Chaco. I must confess that 
the prospect of being, within the next hour, the supper of one or 
prisoner of the other was by no means a comforting reflection. 
The doctor proposed that we should spend the night among the 
branches of the algarroba ; but not caring to be treed like a coon, 



260 RETURN TO ASUNCION. 

I preferred a running fight, and kept to the banks. "We retraced 
our steps, passed " my point," meeting with no incident more 
alarming or noteworthy than an occasional tumble over the ant- 
hills. Again we fired. Hark! the one howitzer of the little 
steamer replied, fainter and more distant than we could have im- 
agined possible, but it was cheering. The doctor thought his 
eyesight better than mine, and proposed to lead, while I was to 
keep him in line by a star I had taken as the direction of the re- 
port. The pilot proved an indifferent one, for he suddenly disap- 
peared, and a pair of heels above the sea of grass showed that he 
had pitched over an ant-hill. I again became the guide, and an- 
other gun from the boat assured me that we were in the right di- 
rection. We came to a bend in the river. The bank was high, 
and densely covered with lofty trees. Turning it, we saw the 
light of the Pilcomayo, and hailed her. 

Officers and crew were anxious for our safety, and a detach- 
ment was about starting off in search. They had burned blue 
lights and fired small-arms repeatedly ; but the height of the 
banks and the skirting of wood had hidden the first and deadened 
the sound. We had a hearty laugh over our adventures, and 
joked the doctor unmercifully for his " tree proposition." He 
had been a great coon hunter down in Old Virginia, had a vivid 
recollection of the difficulties of the siege, and thought that from 
such a leafy fort as an algarroba a garrison of two men might bid 
defiance to the jaguar and Indian of the Chaco. 

At an early hour the next morning we were moving down 
stream, and in the afternoon of the following day again entered 
the Paraguay. In twenty and a half working hours we had de- 
scended the distance it had taken thirty -two days to ascend, and, 
stopping only at three points to wood, we arrived on the 5th of 
July at Asuncion. 

I had not been unmindful of the 4th. One bottle of cheer had 
been kept for the occasion. It was passed round, and "Jack," 
with patriotic promptitude, responded to the call of "All hands 
splice the main brace." 

We made the run from the mouth of the Vermejo to Asuncion 
in ninety -one running hours against a current, ascertained to be 
from two to two and a half sea miles an hour. In both rivers we 
had kept out of the currents as much as possible, but working by 
night the boat was doubtless contending with that of the Para- 
guay the greater part of the time. This was conclusive evidence 



MR. HICKMAN'S EXPEDITION. 261 

that the Pilcornayo, bad as she was, had made from four to four 
and a half sea miles an hour; and yet in the Vermejo we could 
make no headway with the greatest pressure of steam. I may 
then justly conclude that those who navigate it must encoun- 
ter a current of four sea miles an hour in those parts confined be- 
tween banks, and this, too, at low water. 

About the time of our ascent of that river, some American and 
English merchants of Buenos Ayres entered into a commercial 
enterprise. They intrusted the execution of some preliminary ar- 
rangements to Mr. Hickman, a citizen of the United States, par- 
ticularly enthusiastic and energetic in all transactions relating to 
trade. Their object was to open intercourse with the northwestern 
provinces of the Argentine States and Bolivia by the navigation 
of the Vermejo. Accompanied by four men Mr. Hickman set out 
by land, hoping to meet us at the town of Oran, and expecting 
from my party facilities and aids which would certainly have been 
rendered. 

His purpose was to inform himself of the resources of the coun- 
try accessible by this river ; to construct a small boat, load it with 
samples of such articles as might enter into immediate trade, float 
down the river to Corrientes, and thence descend to Buenos Ayres. 
He reached Oran, built his boat eighty feet in length, sixteen feet 
beam, and five feet depth ; loaded her with hides, wool, chinchilla 
skins, specimens of copper and lead ores, and left Oran on the 12 th 
of March, 1855. The current dashed the boat against the bank 
near the point called Lima Muerta, about twenty-five leagues be- 
low, where he was detained until the 4th of April to repair damages. 
He died on the 6th of May, and was buried near the old " reduc- 
tion" of San Bernard. The boat arrived safely at Corrientes on 
the 24th of the same month. According to a journal kept on 
board, she was under way two hundred and fifty hours, and float- 
ed a distance of three hundred and fifty leagues. This would 
make the current four miles an hour. The most intelligent men 
of this party were of the opinion that steamers of three feet draught 
could ascend within twenty miles of Oran at any season of the 
year. Having to cut lumber from the woods, they were ten 
months engaged in the construction of this boat and in prepara- 
tions for leaving Oran. 

By Mr. Hickman's death the projectors of the enterprise proba- 
bly lost much valuable information that would have hastened the 
development of trade in that direction. But the time is only post- 



262 MR. DANA'S DISPATCH. 

poned when steamers will enter Corrientes, Bosario, and Buenos 
Ayres, freighted with the products of the North and West, a ton 
for every ounce that now finds its way into those markets for for- 
eign shipment. To effect this, however, one thing is essential : 
the free and uninterrupted navigation of the river ; that is, free- 
dom from obstacles and annoyances arising from the territorial 
differences of neighboring nations. As to the Indians, they may 
become valuable aids in opening this new avenue of trade. 

To show the resources of the country accessible by the Verme- 
jo, and the immediate trade it offers, I quote from an interesting 
dispatch of Mr. J. W. Dana, our minister to Bolivia, addressed to 
the State Department. 

" The whole region of country in the vicinity of the Vermejo, both in Bo- 
livia and the Argentine States, including the cities above named (Oran, Ju- 
juy, and Salta), abounds in horses, cattle, and sheep, and produces cotton, 
sugar-cane, tobacco, rice, cocoa ; and at points a little more distant the al- 
paca is found in great numbers. The Bio Grande, a branch of the Verme- 
jo, which enters it a little below Oran, is navigable to a point forty leagues 
distant from each of the cities Jujuy and Salta 

" Estimates by the leading merchants in various parts of the country, 
which I have heretofore obtained, compared, and corrected, one by another, 
indicate the sum of $5,000,000 as an approximation to the amount of im- 
ports. These may be reclassed as follows : Iron and steel, all that is used 
in the country for mining and other purposes ; large quantities of brandy, 
wine, and ale ; all the table-service, cutlery, etc. ; nearly all the good fur- 
niture, pianos, for which there is a very great demand ; carpetings and pa- 
per-hangings ; jewelry, watches, etc. ; a large quantity of our coarse brown 
and blue cotton for outer clothing in warm climates ; a large quantity of 
thick heavy baize, from England, which is universally used for the Indians 
and lower classes in the high cold regions ; silks, broad-cloths, and all the 
various materials for male and female dress used in Europe and the United 
States. Hats, boots, and shoes are imported to some extent, but they are 
manufactured here, though badly, and at very high prices. In fact, all the 
necessaries and luxuries of a civilized society are brought from abroad, ex- 
cept the productions of the soil 

" The exports of the country, a series of years considered, must of course 
be regarded as at least equal to the imports. These consist of copper, tin, 
silver coined, gold coined, cascarilla and Peruvian bark ; to which may be 
added a small quantity of wool. Copper mines are abundant throughout 
Bolivia, including the region that would conveniently centre at Sucre ; but, 
on account of the great cost of transportation, none are worked except those 
nearest the coast. They are so productive, however, that it is a very prof- 



FARTHER EXPLORATIONS. 263 

itable business when the transportation does not exceed seventy-five 
leagues. The same cause, distance and transportation, operates upon the 
mines of tin. "When tin is high, they are worked to a considerable extent ; 
when it is low, the works are in a great measure suspended. Those which 
are now worked are chiefly situated in the vicinity of Oran, between that 
and Sucre. The most productive silver mines are also in the region of 
Sucre, or properly of Potosi. One establishment near there produced 
$360,000 in the year 1856. But the cost of machinery, brought from 
abroad over the Andes on mules, is so immense that most of the mines are 
worked in the most primitive manner ; and, consequently, only those which 
are very rich afford a remunerative business. As an illustration I will 
state that a company that has recently introduced European machinery is 
now working over a second time the substance from which the silver had 
been previously extracted, and doing so at great profit. If facilities were 
afforded for the introduction of improved machinery, I have no doubt that 
it would immensely increase the production." 



CHAPTEK XV. 



Visit to the President. — Boat-cruise up the Riachuelo. — Victoria Regia or Mais 
del Agua. — Orange Groves. — The Plow. — Posta Contaro. — San Cosmi. — Ytati. 
— Hacienda Yrisbugua. — Race with an Ostrich. — Breaking a Horse. — Troubles 
at Asuncion. — Visit to the President. — Consultation with Mr. Hopkins. — Return 
to the Government-house. — Last Interview with his Excellency. — The Permit. 
— Correspondence with Mr. Falcon. — Council at Head-quarters. — Americans on 
board, descending the River. — The Navy heaves in Sight. — Passing the Admir- 
al. — The President's Indignation and the Seminario. — The Treaty. — Mr. Fal- 
con's extraordinary Letter. — False Charges in the President's Message. — The 
French Colony. — The Brazilian Squadron. — Outrage committed upon the "Water 
Witch. — Wliat our Policy with South American States should be. 

I now remained at Asuncion merely to make all necessary ar- 
rangements for the alterations of the Pilcomayo, and to bring up 
a fair copy of parts of the work of the expedition, to be sent to 
the Navy Department. The latter duty was assigned to Lieuten- 
ants Murdaugh and Henry, and the former to Engineers Stump 
and Taylor, who furnished a plan for the proposed changes. 
Lieutenant Welsh had been suffering from a severe attack of 
neuralgia, aggravated by exposure in the Vermejo; and his gen- 
eral health was so much impaired that I felt reluctantly obliged 
to dispense with his services, and gave him orders to return 
home. I then determined to proceed to Corrientes, with the view 
of examining the northern and western parts of the province, and 



264 VISIT TO THE PKESIDENT. 

to obtain the aid of a machinist for some repairs needed by the 
Water "Witch. 

I was going to a state for which the President of Paraguay had 
no friendly feelings ; but in my visit of leave the manner of his 
Excellency was not only civil, but actually approached to cordial- 
ity. He desired me to call upon the government, without reserve, 
for any aid needed in the reconstruction of the small steamer, and 
to remember that my requests would always meet with a favor- 
able reception. So entirely did he relax from his usual reserve 
on this occasion, that he accompanied me to the door, and taking 
my hand, expressed himself kindly for my success and speedy 
return. 

Arriving at Corrientes, I called on Governor Pujol, who met 
frankly my request to visit the interior of the province, and said 
he would have orders issued from the postal department to afford 
every assistance. In the Argentine States, as in Paraguay, postas 
(post-houses) are established at distances of one, two, or three 
leagues throughout the country, and a sufficient number of extra 
horses are kept at them to meet any emergency that may occur. 
The traveler will always find his movements expedited by adding 
a few pennies to the usual charge per league ; for the master of 
the post has generally some good animals, his private property, 
while those of the government are often so much broken down 
that I was compelled, at times, to turn my horse upon the road, 
and procure another from the nearest house. 

Wishing to see the country adjacent to the river during the 
rainy season, and with the hope of adding something new to our 
collections, I determined to make a little boat-cruise up the Eia- 
chuelo, a small stream that rises in the interior and empties into the 
Parana nine miles below Corrientes. I was fortunate in obtain- 
ing some rare birds, and in seeing — what alone would have repaid 
for a longer journey — the " queen of the nymphasacese" upon its 
native waters. Extensive shallow lagoons, pure and limpid, were 
gemmed with islands of the " Victoria Eegia," or " mais del agua" 
(corn of the water), as it is called in the country ; for it is not 
only the queen of the floral tribes, but ministers to the necessities 
of man. Its seeds, which are about the size of large buck-shot, 
consist of a thin shell inclosing a white mealy substance. They 
are gathered by the Corrientinos and pounded into meal, from 
which they make excellent and nutritious bread. I procured a 
quantity, and sent them carefully sealed to the Navy Department. 



THE VICTOKIA EEGIA. 265 

I did not perhaps see the " regia" in all its glory, for the season 
of full flower, May and June, had passed ; but it was still budding 
and blooming in sufficient perfection to delight the eye. A plant, 
with some of its native soil and water, was placed in a cask, but 
with all my care it died. What infinite study is found in its 
leaves — those great pages of Nature's book ! I never wearied in 
examining their mechanism. Here, spreading over the lagoons, 
they looked as if they would bear the weight of men, and were 
covered at all times after dawn with myriads of water-fowl, glean- 
ing the "corn," unless anticipated by the natives. The descrip- 
tion given of this plant by Mr. Schomburgk, its discoverer, while 
exploring the river Berbice in 1837, renders unnecessary any de- 
scription from me of the " mais del agua" of the Eiachuelo of Cor- 
rientes. The regia of the former is of superior size to that of the 
latter place.* 

I frequently left the boat and walked over the neighboring 
country. The soil is a rich dark loam, covered with fine grass. 
The sod had in many places perhaps never been turned, but where 
attempts at cultivation had been made, the product of corn and 
tobacco was excellent. 

The orange-groves were generally neglected. I must except, 
however, a superb orchard of six thousand trees, one half of 
which, too young for bearing, were growing vigorously, while 
three thousand were bending under the weight of their golden 
fruit, and yielded an income, I was told, of $2500 per annum. 
These oranges are inferior to those of Paraguay. Indeed, those 
grown on the Parana, east of the capital, are not so fine as the 
fruit of the opposite shores. 

* Schomburgk says : " The leaf, on its surface, is of a bright green, in form 
orbiculate, with this exception, opposite its axis, where it is slightly bent in : its 
diameter measured from five to six feet : around the margin extended a rim about 
three to five inches high : on the inside light green, like the surface of the leaf; 
on the outside, like the leaf's lower part, of a bright crimson. 1 The stem of the 
flower is an inch thick near the calyx, and is studded with sharp elastic prickles 

about three quarters of an inch in length The diameter of the calyx is 

twelve or thirteen inches : on it rests the magnificent flower, which, when fully 
developed, covers completely the calyx with its hundred petals. "When it first 
opens, it is white, with pink in the middle, which spreads over the whole flower 
the more it advances in age, and it is generally found the next day of a pink color ; 
as if to enhance its beauty, it is sweet-scented ; and, like others of its tribe, it pos- 
sesses a fleshy disk, and petals and stamens pass gradually into each other, and 
many petaloid leaves may be observed which have vestiges of an anther." 

1 The color of those I saw was very much the same en hoth sides, a light green ; and the size four 
feet in diameter. 



266 A FRENCH AGRICULTURIST. 

Civil wars have so desolated this part of the province and so 
diminished the cattle that now the orange-groves form the princi- 
pal source of income to landed proprietors. They require little 
attention, and a ready sale is afforded by the fruit- vessels that ply 
up and down the river. As the best estancias are generally 
owned by wealthy individuals residing at the capital, their only 
buildings are the rude dwellings of the capitazes or herdsmen. 
At these or in some abandoned hut we generally slept, spending 
the days in seeking ornithological or botanical specimens, and 
taking our meals wherever chance found us. 

In our wanderings we came to the land of an industrious French 
immigrant, who, with a large family, had established himself on 
the Parana. He was breaking up his ground with a modern 
plow after the most approved system ; and, from the appearance 
of the rich, dark soil, his labors were probably well remunerated 
by the return crops. From this farm we passed to that of a na- 
tive, who was standing lazily looking on, while a boy with a fine 
yoke of oxen and a wooden plow, probably such as was used in 
the days of the Conquest, was scratching the surface of a piece of 
ground about fifty yards square. 

"Did you see my neighbor plowing?" asked the Corrientino. 

"Yes." 

He broke into a long, loud laugh. " What a plow ! Ha ! ha ! 
na ! that fool of a Frenchman ! He's crazy, sir ! Why, sir, he is 
opening the ground as wide as the streets of the capital I" 

The Frenchman's crops will, I presume, prove an unanswerable 
argument upon the merits of the two plows, and turn the laugh 
against his neighbor. 

The Riachuelo did not extend far into the interior ; but in fol- 
lowing its course I was enabled to see apart of the province south 
of the capital, much better adapted to agriculture than that bor- 
dering the Parana, east of it. Population is alone wanting here, as 
in all parts of the Confederation. What homes these expanded 
plains and the delicious climate offer to immigrants! What a 
percentage on labor and capital might be drawn from these fertile 
wastes ! 

We returned to Corrientes ; and with our saddle-bags (alforjas) 
packed with tea, sugar, bread, and a little cana, recommended as 
"cooling in summer and warming in winter," were soon equip- 
ped for a longer journey in the interior. 

Upon a fine September morning, the doctor and myself, mount- 



SAN COSML— YTATI. 267 

ing our rather sorry horses, started eastward, seeking science and 
adventure. Our first stopping - place was Posta Contaro, about 
twenty miles from the capital, where we were kindly welcomed, 
refreshed with supper of "asado" and mandioca, and, after cigars, 
made quite members of the family by having our hammocks 
slung up in the same room with the master of the post, his wife, 
three other women, and five children ; one of these an infant, who 
entertained us during the night with solos and snatches of song 
that indicated good lungs. These poor people did their best to 
accommodate us, for this little adobe house had but one room, 
with a couple of benches, two chairs, and a rickety table for its 
furniture. Surrounding it was an inclosure with a few rows of 
corn, mandioca, and tobacco. 

The following day we reached San Cosmi, and, by the activity 
of the Juiz de Paz, were assigned an empty room, which was 
transformed into a cheery, comfortable apartment by the thought- 
ful kindness of a lady, Senora Casales, to whom we had letters of 
introduction. Two cots, tables, and chairs soon made their ap- 
pearance, followed by what we could not have expected, meals at 
stated hours. These consisted of beef, bread, chickens, eggs, and, 
what was really a luxury, snowy table-linen with plates, knives 
and forks, all temptingly clean. The hospitality of this place was 
repeated wherever we traveled in the Argentine States, and nev- 
er limited but by the means of our entertainers. San Cosmi has 
about four hundred inhabitants, with a plaza, around which stand 
the church and the best dwellings. The latter are generally adobe 
houses of one story, either tiled or thatched. From a hedge in 
this neighborhood I procured the silk of a small black spider, 
long, exquisitely fine, and yet so strong that, as I wound it upon 
a card, the branches of the hedge would bend without breaking 
the web. 

Our next ride was to Ytati, a village of several hundred inhab- 
itants, twenty miles from San Cosmi, and in the immediate vicin- 
age of the Parana, of which it commands an extended view. "We 
went first to the house of the Juiz de Paz, whose pretty young 
wife received us with all the tact and ease innate to the women 
Of that country, however humble their position. She chatted 
without embarrassment, and, probably discovering from our hun- 
gry faces that we had fasted for twelve hours, soon busied herself 
earnestly in preparing a supper which, to my surprise, comprised 
not only beef, chickens, and honey, but cow's milk and tea. The 



268 THE HACIENDA YEISBUQUA. 

last was a delicate attention that we appreciated. A native of the 
capital, the senora had perhaps there learned that this was the fa- 
vorite evening beverage of foreigners. The plaza and its adobe 
houses were, in this place, overshadowed by an old Jesuitic church, 
then dilapidated, but which was about to undergo repairs that will 
make it one of the finest buildings of the province. 

The appearance of the country thus far — forty miles east of the 
city of Corrientes — was singular but picturesque, and needs but 
dwellings and culture to make it extremely beautiful. It was not 
low or level, but broken by verdant lomas (hillocks) and gentle 
undulations, intersected by lakes, some insulated, others connected 
by miniature straits. These lakes were covered with myriads of 
water-fowl, and, as we looked back upon them from some ridge 
of land, their waters sparkled in the sunlight, and the birds sport- 
ed as if alive to the beauty and security of haunts rarely or never 
invaded by man. 

Civil wars have desolated this land. Hedges alone marked the 
inclosures where once stood the buildings of a now abandoned 
estancia. The soil was rich and light ; the corn and tobacco in 
quality quite equal to the best of Paraguay; and the yield, in 
proportion to the extent of ground cultivated, is the best evidence 
of adaptation for such produce. I thought the pastures of the lo- 
mas better adapted to the rearing of sheep than of horned cattle. 

A visit to the Hacienda Yrisbuqua, about twenty miles from 
Ytati, enabled me to see the management of one of the largest 
grazing estates in the province, its owner, Don Anjel Bedoya, hav- 
ing given us letters to his capitaz. In approaching it, the low- 
lands were much under water, but the general appearance of the 
country was improved. The dwellings were placed upon the lo- 
mas, above the influence of inundation, and, though few and far 
between, were substantially built either of burned brick and tiled, 
or of adobe and roofed with palm. There was no cultivation ; but 
the pastures were fine, the cattle, horses, and sheep superior in 
number and size to any yet seen in Corrientes ; and the growth 
of algarroba and espinilla, the only woods there of any value, 
abundant. A hacienda, or grazing farm,* embraces generally an 
area of six miles square, with about 6000 head of cattle, 500 
sheep, and a few hundred horses. Although a great proportion 
of the land seemed to be not only arable, but of superior quality, 

* A hacienda is exclusively a grazing farm, while on an estancia cultivation is 
combined with grazing. 



HORSE-BEEAKING. 269 

we did not observe on one of them a yard square under culture ; 
not even a garden around the dwelling of the capitaz. 

In riding over the property of Don Anjel I had quite a novel 
amusement. An ostrich crossed my path, and, as I was well 
mounted, with an extended plain before me, I determined to try 
its speed with that of my horse. I kept up the chase for more 
than a mile, when I abandoned the pursuit; for it was evident 
that the ostrich "had the heels" of the horse. 

Mares were not worth more than fifty cents a head, there being 
an absurd prejudice against their use, even as beasts of burden ; 
and a man mounted on one would create as great a sensation and 
excite as much ridicule as a dandy upon a donkey in one of our 
thoroughfares of fashion. They are kept for breeding, and the in- 
crease is so enormous that they are slaughtered by hundreds, 
merely for their hides and grease, the latter being esteemed, for 
some purposes, superior to beef's tallow. The hair is worth about 
one dollar fifty cents the aroba, or six cents the pound; and 
large herds are driven into corrals exclusively for the. shearing. 
A mounted gaucho throws the lasso over the neck; another on 
foot secures the hind legs, when the mare is brought to the ground ; 
a third seizes the mane, a fourth the tail ; and thus, in an incredi- 
bly short time, the poor animal is despoiled. 

We also witnessed the "breaking" of saddle-horses and milch 
cows, the latter by no means a common operation ; for few things 
are less cared for than milk by the natives of La Plata. 

A wild horse is taken, by lasso, from a troop in the corral, to a 
post where, with his head closely confined, he is left for some 
hours kicking and pitching. To accustom him to the touch, the 
domador (horse-breaker) from time to time throws a lasso about 
his legs, which so maddens the animal that his struggles become 
frightful, and end in his falling exhausted upon the ground. The 
guacho then bridles him, and, as the horse regains his feet, puts 
on the "recado," while another releases his head and springs upon 
his back. This is all the work of an instant. Now the battle be- 
tween rider and animal begins. The latter plunges, pitches, and 
rears, but in vain. There is no unhorsing the domador, who 
dashes on at full speed, whipping and spurring until, completely 
subdued, the horse is brought back to the post, to be exercised 
in the same way the following day, and again and again, until he 
is pronounced muy manso, broken, but rarely gentle. 

The cow is caught and thrown down by the lasso, when a worn- 



270 FIRST DIFFICULTY IN PARAGUAY. 

an tramples upon the udder to cause a discharge of milk. The 
animal is then led to a post, where she is bound head and legs 
while the milking goes on. In a few days she is sufficiently 
tamed to be classed among domestic animals. 

On returning to Ytati I found a letter from Lieutenant Powell 
requesting my presence in Asuncion, where a serious difficulty had 
arisen between the United States Consul and President Lopez. 

This controversy had passed through many phases when I ar- 
rived at the capital, and I have no idea of entering into details, 
farther than to state that the immediate cause of its outbursting, 
at that particular time, was an assault made by a soldier on the 
person of the brother of Mr. Hopkins while riding with a lady, 
also a foreigner. The man was driving cattle to the city, and on 
being met or overtaken by the riding party the herd was dis- 
persed into the woods. 

There was no personal injury to the lady or gentleman, but the 
insult was to be considered, and justly made a subject of com- 
plaint. In other countries it could have been settled without be- 
ing a government affair ; but here the President, as I have before 
so often stated, is the law, judiciary, and, de facto, head of all things. 

President Lopez took exception to the language in which the 
complaint was made. A paper war ensued ; crimination followed 
recrimination. The consular exequatur was revoked, and the 
wrath of the Chief Magistrate extended to the members of the 
American Company, of which Mr. Hopkins was agent. They had 
been permitted to occupy the quartel of San Antonio ; had im- 
proved the grounds, purchased some adjoining lands, erected a 
saw-mill, and established a cigar-factory. They were now forced 
to give up the quartel. The controversy waxed hotter and hot- 
ter. Decrees or bandos intended to embarrass their operations 
were issued, and at last the cigar-factory was closed, thereby vir^ 
tually closing the business of the company in Paraguay. I give a 
few of the bandos, which, though applied to all foreigners, were at 
this time issued for the special embarrassment of the Americans. 

"1. No servant shall engage in the service of a foreigner without a writ- 
ten agreement or notification given and approved by the government, as to 
the amount of wages. 

" 2. All meetings of foreigners, except for the ostensible object of visit- 
ing, and innocent diversion, are forbidden, by day and by night. 

" 3. All foreigners must take out a license to engage in any commercial 
or industrial ursuit." 



INTEKVTEW WITH THE PKESIDENT. 271 

This last article was reasonable ; but the company, though go- 
ing on for a year, had not before been required to take out a li- 
cense, and when Mr. Hopkins made an application for it, in the 
character of " general agent," having paid sixteen dollars for the 
stamped paper, it was refused on the ground of his being "gen- 
eral agent." This title was objectionable to the government, and 
would not be recognized. He must apply as " agent," witnout 
the "general." 

I am to this day mystified by this phase of the difficulty. There 
was but one General in Paraguay, the son and heir of the Presi- 
dent; but by what process of reasoning the title of the " General 
Agent" reflected upon the head of the military arm I am unable 
to say ; neither do I see why it should not have been relinquished. 
There were other petty annoyances, seemingly of a general bear- 
ing, but in fact aimed at the American Company. 

Affairs had reached this crisis when I arrived at Asuncion, and 
found Mr. Hopkins determined, by reason of the course of the 
government, to leave the country with the members of the com- 
pany and such of their effects as could be conveniently removed. 

To show my course in this controversy, and the part I took to- 
ward effecting a restoration of the former state of things, to enable 
the company to proceed with its operations, I shall quote from 
my journal : 

" Sept 21st, 1854. This morning, at 9 A.M., I called on Presi- 
dent Lopez ; was courteously received, and discussed the difficulty 
between the government and Mr. Hopkins at some length. The 
President said the soldier had been severely punished by the in- 
fliction of three hundred stripes in " running the gauntlet" through 
the regiment to which he was attached. He complained of the 
intemperate language of Mr. Hopkins. It was, he said, insulting 
to him, and he had in consequence withdrawn his exequatur. 

" I desired to be informed if the American Company would be 
allowed to carry on its operations under a guarantee of protection. 
He assured me that it would, and that it should receive every 
protection enjoyed by other business associations, whether foreign 
or native ; but that the agent, Mr. Hopkins, was personally ob- 
noxious to him, and he would not consent to his engaging in any 
business in the country. 

"I informed him that other Americans belonging to the com- 
pany had complained to me of insulting remarks made to them 
since that occurrence, even by officials ; and said, ' I wish to know, 



272 THE AMERICAN COMPANY. 

Sir, if, in the event of their remaining, they will be treated person- 
ally with respect, and shielded from the possible recurrence of in- 
sult or indignities.' He replied, ' They shall.' 

" I met Mr. Hopkins by appointment, and informed him of the 
result of my interview with the President. He then informed me 
that the business of the company had been broken up by the ac- 
tion of the government, regardless of all pre-existing contracts ; 
and that he should hold it responsible for the damages, looking 
to the United States Government for the enforcement of the rec- 
lamation ; that, under these circumstances, he wished, with the 
company, to withdraw from Paraguay, but that no trading vessel 
would take them, the master fearing that the odium in which he 
was held by the government would be visited on them. 

"I replied, 'I will see the President, and if no arrangement 
can be made for your leaving the country by a trading vessel, I 
will receive the members of the company and their effects on 
board the Water Witch, and convey them to Corrientes' — this 
being the point at which he wished to establish them. 

" I called again at the government-house, stated to the Presi- 
dent the apprehensions of Mr. Hopkins, and suggested that he 
should allow the Captain of the Port to procure a vessel, which 
would at once set at rest the fears of any shipmaster as to the 
consequences of receiving the Americans. He said, ' This shall 
be done.' 'Now, Sir,' I asked, 'what forms must be complied 
with to enable the company to leave Paraguay with their prop- 
erty?' He replied, 'They will simply be required to procure 
passports, and a " permit" from the custom-house for the shipment 
of their effects and merchandise, all of which they are at liberty 
to take with them, paying the export duty on such articles as are 
products of the country.' They had about eight hundred arobas 
of superior tobacco. 

" A vessel was engaged, passports obtained, and I concluded 
that all was satisfactorily arranged for the departure of the com- 
pany, when one of its members came on board the Water Witch 
and complained of fresh insults by the Chief of Police. 

" Again I called on the President. It was my last interview 
with his Excellency. I reminded him of the assurances he had 
given me as to the personal treatment of the members of the com- 
pany, and stated the new complaint, informing him, at the same 
time, in decided but courteous language, that my duty obliged 
me to watch over the rights of American citizens wherever I 



PROGRESS OF THE DIFFICULTY. 273 

should meet them abroad. The Chief of Police was summoned, 
and in a few minutes was announced as waiting the orders of 
his Excellency. He was directed to enter. The door opened, 
the Chief of Police stood on the threshold, and made a low bow. 
' Approach,' said his Excellency. The Chief of Police approached. 
' Take a seat.' He sat down, but uneasily. It was an unusual 
honor accorded him. The President stated the charge made 
against him. He of course denied every word, rising to his feet 
as he spoke. 

" ' Be seated, Sir,' said the President. 

" The Chief of Police could not be kept seated, and rose at 
every word addressed to his Excellency. He was at last ordered 
to withdraw. The President was apparently as well satisfied of 
the truth of his statement as I was of the contrary. He then said 
that as the American in question had been the superintendent of 
the factory, he wished him to remove the sign (a piece of tin) and 
take a receipt for it, as he did not wish to give the company occa- 
sion to say that any of its property was withheld. I told him the 
individual in question could not do this, but I would relieve his 
Excellency from all embarrassment by directing one of my boat's 
crew to receive it. With some hesitancy, he acceded to this ar- 
rangement. 

" In this interview I expressed myself very decidedly, but with 
the courtesy due to the President's position, and we parted appar- 
ently without any rupture of our friendly relations. 

" I had scarcely got on board the Water Witch, congratulating 
myself that the difficulties were over, when another note was re- 
ceived from Mr. Hopkins. On applying for a ' permit' to ship 
the goods, it had been refused until he should surrender the pa- 
pers, deeds, etc., which secured to the company certain lands, pur- 
chased and paid for. 

" Before taking any farther steps I sent my clerk to ascertain 
from the Collector if I must understand that he refused a ' permit' 
for the dispatch of the company's merchandise on the grounds 
mentioned. He returned with a reply in the affirmative. 

" I had been long enough in the country to know that the Col- 
lector would not dare to take such a step without instructions 
from the President. It was in direct violation of every promise 
his Excellency had given me, and I saw clearly that the moment 
had arrived when my action in this difficulty should be matter of 
record. I addressed a note to the Minister of Foreign Kelations, 

18 



274 RETUEN OF LETTERS. 

stating the facts of the case, repeating the assurances of the Presi- 
dent, and telling him what would be my course for the relief of 
the members of this company if they were not allowed to depart 
by the usual mode of conveyance. 

" On the afternoon of the same day I had received no reply; 
but a verbal message came from the Minister of Foreign Kelations 
to tfye captain's clerk, desiring him to call at his office. I gave 
him permission to go; but, suspecting that the object of this call 
was to question him as to my correspondence, I enjoined silence. 
The secretary desired him to take my notes and request me to 
have them translated. I replied verbally that I must correspond 
with the government in my own language, and could not allow 
my letters to be translated by any one associated with me. Ac- 
companying the note in question was one informing him that I 
had just received dispatches from our Minister at the Court of 
Brazil inclosing permission from his Imperial Majesty's Govern- 
ment to explore the Paraguay and its tributaries, within the lim- 
its of the empire, and expressing the hope that his Excellency 
would allow me again to pass through the waters of his territory 
to reach those of Brazil. This note shared the fate of the others. 
But that the contents of both were known to the President is evi- 
dent from the tenor of subsequent articles in the Seminario, the 
government organ, published at Asuncion. 

" President Lopez, I am told, reads both French and English ;* 
added to this, there is an intelligent Englishman residing at 
Asuncion who translates for him, and much more correctly than 
I, my clerk, or any one associated with me could possibly have 
done. 

" Failing to coerce me into this measure — the sole object of 
which was to exhibit to the people of Paraguay his authority over 
a foreign officer — my notes were returned the following day, with 
one from the Minister of Foreign Kelations, Mr. Jose Falcon, in- 
forming me that the President did not read English, and desiring 
that I would translate them into Spanish, when they would re- 
ceive proper attention. 

" I replied to Mr. Falcon, f stating that the contemptuous treat- 
ment of my official communications, addressed in courteous lan- 
guage, was a thing unprecedented in this age of civilization ; that 
it deprived me of the means of arriving at the intentions of his 
government relative to the departure of the Americans, and forced 

* But imperfectly, I presume. t See Appendix F. 



DEPARTURE FROM ASUNCION. 275 

upon me the inference that my request had been refused, thus 
making it an imperative duty to remove them from Paraguay in 
the Water Witch. At the same time I informed the Captain of 
the Port that I should receive them and their effects on board, 
and leave Asuncion at a certain hour. 

"Scarcely had this announcement been made when President 
Lopez issued the ' permit,' showing conclusively that his Excel- 
lency was fully informed of the contents of my notes, if he did not 
read English." 

It was late. The Americans were in the act of coming on 
board before its issue was made known. It expedited matters, 
however, for it was accompanied by an order to the Port Captain 
to afford them every facility in shipping their goods. 

My last written communication to the Government of Paraguay 
was returned, accompanied by a note, of the same tenor as the 
previous one, from Mr. Jose Falcon. This was sent by an officer 
or employe in the office of the Captain of the Port, who, without 
coming on board, delivered the papers at the gangway, and made 
off in an instant, as if he feared infection or capture. I gave them 
in charge of an officer of the Water Witch, and directed him to 
return them to the Captain of the Port; and should he object to 
receive them, to place them in his office. The officer reported 
that he had acted in accordance with my orders. 

Before getting under way, having occasion to pass through a 
good portion of the town, I observed that it presented an unusual 
appearance ; not a soul was abroad. Asuncion was not at siesta, 
for it was not the hour; moreover, heads were peering through 
half-opened doors, showing that curiosity was stronger than fear 
or sleep. Something was wrong, and the people were anxious to 
know what difficulties were brewing with the " supreme govern- 
ment." 

The plaza, usually the gayest and noisiest place imaginable, 
was deserted. I missed the picturesque groups of market women, 
with their white cotton mantas, seated upon the ground, encircled 
by fruits, vegetables, and an eager crowd of buyers. Not a man, 
cart, or horse was to be seen, except a few conveying the effects 
of the American Company to the beach. What was feared ? The 
following explanation was made : 

" Last night (the 28th), at midnight, the President called a con- 
sultation of his advisers, at which your letter was considered. 
The wise ' heads' thought they saw in it another ' Grey town af- 



276 ASPECT OF THE CAPITAL. 

fair.' His Excellency thought, as heavy bodies move slowly, it 
woiild be prudent to be prepared ; so he sent for a machinist to 
examine his carriage, and see that all was in good running condi- 
tion. Orders were issued that no one should appear in the plaza 
or streets after eleven o'clock this morning, and not a horse or 
cart, except those engaged in transporting the goods of the Amer- 
ican Company, was to be seen." 

I had observed, as I have before stated, an unquestioning sub- 
mission to the authority of the President ; and in giving another's 
statement, I do so without adding my own indorsement of the 
suspicion. 

" The submission of the people to the present grinding system 
is only simulated. They are not insensible to their thralldom, 
and the President really feared that if you fired at the govern- 
ment-house, the people might avail themselves of the opportu- 
nity to rise and change the order of things. He was prepared to 
run." 

I had held pleasant social intercourse, while at Asuncion, with 
the Brazilian Consul, an amiable, gentlemanly person, who came 
on board the Water Witch and expressed, with much anxiety, 
the hope that I was not really about to fire into the town. I as- 
sured him that I had no such intention, and had never by word 
or deed intimated that I would do so ; but that it was utterly im- 
possible for me to be responsible for the gossip of others, or per- 
haps the inspiration of some wag who wished to frighten the 
President. My language and conduct, up to that moment, had 
been studiously respectful to the government; and as it had 
yielded every point, as the Americans personally were safe and 
on board the Water Witch, and the " permit" had been issued to 
facilitate the shipment of their goods, there was no possible ex- 
cuse for so extreme a measure. I was not at all ambitious of the 
inglorious achievement of firing into a town, destroying the prop- 
erty of unoffending citizens, perhaps the lives of women and chil- 
dren, and disturbing the course of a government with which I had 
been directed to treat for commercial intercourse. The prepara- 
tion of the steamer, with her three howitzers, placed on board as 
a protection against savages, was simply a duty to meet any con- 
tingency that might occur. I pointed out to him a field-piece, 
apparently a nine-pounder, on a very beautiful and commanding 
position, near a well-stored magazine, and within good howitzer 
range, around which were a number of soldiers ready to apply 



PASSING TEES BOCAS. 279 

the match. ; and said to him, " Should not that admonish me to 
be ready ? I shall certainly defend my flag." 

I had, it is true, resolved that if the property of the Americans 
was retained by the President, or placed where it was beyond the 
reach of our guns, to return the compliment by capturing his 
" navy" at Tres Bocas. But I had made no such threat, had no 
excuse for such an act at that time, and did not regret it. Under 
the " permit" finally issued, the effects of the company which could 
not be taken on board the "Water Witch were placed in the hands 
of an agent, to be shipped to Corrientes. 

With the Americans on board I left Asuncion the 29th of Sep- 
tember. On reaching Tres Bocas we observed an unusual array 
of soldiers, and the little navy of five vessels, with their arma- 
ment, ranging from two to six guns, all doubly manned, and 
ready, as the President had said, to " salute or fight." The ves- 
sels were moored so close to the bank that a plank from each 
would have enabled the personnel of the marine to make an ex- 
cursion into the interior of the country at the shortest possible no- 
tice. On the deck of the flag-ship, a prominent figure in the pic- 
ture, stood my old friend the " Admiral." Salutes would have 
been dangerous ; for, from the evident state of hostile preparation, 
the first flash of one of their guns might have been returned by a 
fire from our howitzer, without delay for explanation. We passed 
slowly and in silence ; many a soul on the Water Witch devoutly 
hoping, perhaps, that some brave son of Paraguay would provoke 
a fight. 

I was glad that we were able to leave Paraguay peacefully. 
From our first entrance into her waters and the " Admiral's" re- 
ception at Tres Bocas ; in our cruise to the northern frontier ; 
during my land journey through the interior from west to east, 
from river to river, and in that subsequently made by Lieutenant 
Powell through the Yerbales, we had been hospitably and kindly 
received. And, indeed, the course of the President toward us, 

7 7 i # ? 

until his outbreak with the Consul, was characterized by extreme 
consideration. In all my official intercourse with him, in applica- 
tions for facilities which the government alone could grant in 
forwarding the expedition — and it has been seen that they were 
not unfrequent — he met my propositions readily and observed his 
promises to the letter. I was aware of the faults of his political 
system, but even that was better than I had been led to anticipate 
before entering the country. My business there was not that 



280 COURSE OF THE EXPEDITION. 

of a regenerator. On the contrary, while acting firmly and, to 
the best of my ability, conscientiously, for the protection of the 
American Trading Company, the dignity of our flag, and with a 
due regard to our national interests, I studiously avoided wound- 
ing the susceptibilities of the people and rulers. 

Paraguay had scarcely joined the family of nations. Our peo- 
ple, in the United States knew nothing of her social or political 
condition. We had never, until 1853, been represented there by 
even a Consul. I should, therefore, under all circumstances, with- 
out any personal feeling toward the President, and without refer- 
ence to him as a man, have deemed it as much my duty to give 
the result of my observations upon the political state of the coun- 
try as I should upon the rocks and shoals of her rivers. I be- 
lieve my impressions to be correct. They were formed without 
prejudice, and may possibly assist us in directing our future dip- 
lomatic and commercial relations with Paraguay. 

For trade, Paraguay was unoccupied ground. I had been sent 
there to negotiate a commercial treaty, to examine her rivers, and 
report upon her resources. I thought at the time, and still be- 
lieve, that a valuable commerce might grow up with the United 
States. For manufactured articles it must be for many years a 
considerable market. 

Again : the long-sought and much-desired permission of Brazil 
to explore her waters — the result of a negotiation upon the part 
of two of our Ministers for eighteen months — reached me in the 
midst of these difficulties. My future labors there and in Bolivia 
I had contemplated as the most interesting, and the most fruitful 
in results for science and commerce. Paraguay controlled the 
entrance into their rivers, and could embarrass my anticipated 
movements. I had every reason, official and personal, to use for- 
bearance and discretion ; and yet President Lopez, in his dispatch 
to our government, complains of the hostile attitude I assumed. 
The position of the President is perhaps an uneasy one. His 
people know nothing of other countries. He governs them by 
maintaining an impenetrable reserve, and impressing them with 
the infallibility of his own acts and his commanding position 
among " rulers." He forgot that the members of the American 
Company were not Paraguayans, and that I was the representa- 
tive of a republic where there are no " state secrets." He could 
not give my notes to a third party for translation. They were 
couched in respectful but decided language ; their contents would 



DECEEES OF LOPEZ. 281 

have become known to the citizens ; and the declaration to pur- 
sue a certain line of conduct, with or without the permission of the 
"supreme government," was an assertion of independence, even 
on the part of a foreign officer, that the President did not care 
should be known. 

I have been as concise as possible in the foregoing statement. 
It unfortunately led to a radical change in the feelings of Presi- 
dent Lopez toward myself, and placed me in a position of antago- 
nism which, as will be seen, I carefully endeavored to avoid. His 
vials of wrath seemed, like the widow's cruse, inexhaustible. On 
the 3d of October he issued a decree designed to break up my 
intended exploration of the waters of Brazil and Bolivia,* and, 
through the columns of his organ, the Seminarw, poured forth his 
indignation in language marked by great asperity — a tone and 
style recognized in the countries of La Plata as peculiar to his 
Excellency. 

On the 15th of October Mr. E. C. Buckalew arrived at Corri- 
entes in a river steamer, the Buenos Ayres. He was bearer of the 
exchange of ratifications of the treaty of the 4th of March, nego- 
tiated by Mr. Pendleton, and ratified by the Senate of the United 
States. He also brought letters from the Secretary of State, Mr. 
Marcy, instructing me to propose the exchange. The treaties ne- 
gotiated at the same time by the Ministers of France, England, 
and Sardinia had long since been ratified, and their consuls for 
Asuncion were on board this steamer. 

As the Water Witch was excluded from entering Paraguayan 
waters by the decree of the 3d, I dispatched Lieutenant Mur- 
daugh and Doctor Carter by the Buenos Ayres, with a note to 
the Minister of Foreign Belations informing him that I was com- 
missioned to exchange ratifications, and desiring to know when 
and where I should meet a person duly authorized to act on the 
part of the Government of Paraguay. On delivering the paper, 
Lieutenant Murdaugh, as instructed, informed him verbally of 
its contents. He received the following reply, with my note re- 
turned. I insert it as a specimen of diplomatic writing : 

* The following is a translation of this decree: 

-Article 1st. In the navigation of the rivers of the republic, foreign vessels of 
war are excluded. 

"2d. The exploration of the rivers of upper Paraguay, which are embraced 
within the territory of the republic, or of other neighboring states, can not be made 
through the lower Paraguay, pending the settlement of limits with the neighboring 
powers, Brazil and Bolivia." 



282 STATEMENTS OF LOPEZ. 

[translation.] 

"Asuncion, October 21st, 1854. 
" Mr. Thomas J. Page, Commander of the Water Witch. 
" In accordance with the conditions of my previous dates of the 29th 
and 30th* of the past, I return you your note dated the 16th of October 
in Corrientes, written in English, without accompanying it with a signed 
translation ; astonished that you should persist in your idea of mortifying 
me. 

" De V. L. atento servidor, 
(Signed) « JOSE" FALCON.' 

When we remember that the Spanish Americans are scrupu- 
lously observant of all form and ceremonial in official correspond- 
ence, the quo animo which dictated the above note is manifest on 
its face. It does not concede to the Water Witch her nationality : 
it is addressed to no particular place, and is not concluded in ac- 
cordance with diplomatic usage. 

Every effort on my part, consistent with a proper consideration 
of the position I occupied, to effect an exchange of ratification 
having been made without success, I reported the result to the 
State Department. After my return home, Colonel Eichard Fitz- 
patrick was deputed Special Commissioner to Paraguay for the 
same purpose, but failed in the effort. 

President Lopez repeats, in his message to the Paraguay Con- 
gress of 1857, certain statements relative to the part I took in the 
" American Company's affair" which he had made in a dispatch 
to the United States Government, dated October 3d, 1854. 

He says, in alluding to passports taken out by the Americans 
when they expected to leave in a trading vessel: "Commander 
Page dashed those passports into the office of the Captain of 
the Port, saying that Americans had no occasion to carry them."f 

I neither saw the passports nor gave any directions about them; 
and, as far as my memory serves me, I heard nothing of them. 
If this vulgar and unnecessary exhibition was made by any 
American it never came to my knowledge, or it would have re- 
ceived a merited rebuke. 

Again, the dispatch says: "At the same time he ordered the 

* These two I am unable to insert, as they were returned, in retaliation for the 
treatment my previous notes had received. 

f "El Commandante Page hizo arrojar esas pasaportes en la Capitania del 
Puerto, deciendo no las necesitaban para llevar Americanos." 



THE MINISTER OF FOREIGN RELATIONS. 283 

notes of the Minister of Foreign Eelations to be dashed down 
with the passports."* 

I have before stated that the notes alluded to were given to an 
officer, who was directed to deliver them to the Captain of the 
Port, and to say that I desired no longer to continue communi- 
cations with the government, as my notes were returned unan- 
swered. And should the Captain of the Port object to receive 
them — which I thought probable, judging from the manner of 
his messenger to the Water Witch — the officer was directed to 
place them on his table, and return. This officer was also accom- 
panied by the captain's clerk, Mr. Bushell, who spoke the Span- 
ish language. I can not believe that either of them would have 
been guilty of so great a breach of respect. Whatever might 
have been their feelings toward President Lopez personally, they 
perfectly understood the respect due to an official correspondence ; 
added to this, I believe that all of the officers of the Water Witch 
entertained the most friendly feeling toward the Port Captain. 

I have alluded to our final departure from the waters of Para- 
guay. In referring to this, the Minister of Foreign Eelations says, 
in his dispatch of February 4th, 1855 : " It is known throughout 
the world, f the surprising departure of Senor Commandante Don 
Thomas J. Page, who left highly offended and irritated at the 
people X of Paraguay. On the 30th of September last, from early 
dawn of the day. there was evidence of fire proceeding from the 
smoke-stack of the steamer. Her guns were ordered to be load- 
ed ; and being asked by a certain stranger relative to this hostile 
preparation, he had the coolness to say it was to prevent any im- 
pediment to the departure of the Americans in the steamer. Page 
knew well that Hopkins and other Americans obtained passports 
on the 27th of the aforesaid September. Hopkins, in addition to 
his passport, took out a permit for his effects, tobacco and cigars." 

In giving the date when they " obtained passports," why should 
the date " when he took out a permit" be omitted ? Because, if 
dated at all, it would have borne that of the day on which the 
Americans came on board ; and President Lopez thought to pre- 
serve his prestige intact by granting permission to do what he had 
failed to prevent. 

* " Tambien mando arrojar con las pasaportes las notas que le ha despidido el 
Ministro de Relaciones Esteriores." 

+ What an extensive circulation he imagines the Seminario to have ! 
X He is mistaken : he should have said government. 



284 LOPEZ AND FOKEIGNERS. 

I think all will agree with me that such inaccuracies become a 
national insult when introduced into an official correspondence. 

If the government of the United States desire to establish and 
maintain commercial relations with Paraguay, if it intend that 
the citizens of our country shall peaceably reside there in carry- 
ing out the pursuits of trade, shall enjoy the privileges and im- 
munities usually secured to foreigners in other states of South 
America, its course toward that republic must be decided, or it 
should abandon the idea of intercourse, and let our commercial 
community understand its policy. 

The respect entertained by President Lopez for any foreign 
government is measured by the estimate he attaches to its power 
and determination to enforce its just rights. This opinion is not 
speculative. It is based upon facts ; upon acts of that govern- 
ment which have occurred within a very recent date, to my own 
knowledge. Its disregard of treaties, contracts, and obligations, 
regarded as binding in honor as in law, is established by numer- 
ous instances of bad faith. 

A treaty was signed, without due consideration, by General 
Urquiza, granting to Paraguay the exclusive right to navigate 
the Vermejo ; but when submitted to the Congress of the Argen- 
tine Confederation, it was 'rejected. What was the course of 
President Lopez in this case? The rejection of the treaty ren- 
dered it null and void, and one would suppose that the question 
remained in statu quo. But, instead of acting on this principle, 
his Excellency claimed the power which a ratification would have 
given him, and closed the navigation of this river to "all, but 
especially to vessels under the Argentine flag." This is his mode 
of treating where he possesses the power. 

A French colony was brought over in 1854, under the guaran- 
tee of a solemn contract, and established — not, as its deluded 
members supposed, in Paraguay proper — but opposite, in the 
Chaco, a territory in dispute between Bolivia and Paraguay, and 
actually in possession of the aborigines. Such was the treatment 
of these foreigners by President Lopez, that before the expiration 
of one year they broke up, and many of them escaped — not by 
the river, for the vigilance of its chain of guardias is not easily 
eluded, but through the Chaco, preferring to run the gauntlet of 
Indians, jaguars, and starvation to living under such oppression.* 

* France has a treaty of friendship, commerce, and navigation concluded with 
Paraguay, and has a resident consul at Asuncion. 



PARAGUAY AND BRAZIL. 285 

In 1855 the Emperor of Brazil sent a squadron of eleven men- 
of-war and as many transports, all well appointed, to adjust sev- 
eral questions between the two governments. Among the most 
important was that of territorial limits and the right of way to the 
Brazilian province of Matto Grosso. The squadron was stopped 
at Tres Bocas ; only one steamer, the Admiral's, being permitted 
to ascend to Asuncion. Negotiations were entered into; some 
minor points were settled ; and the expedition returned, foiled in 
its main object by the superior generalship and diplomacy of the 
President of Paraguay. The press of Brazil and the Imperial 
Legislature thundered their invectives not only against the Para- 
guay government, but against their own, for the failure. What 
was the course of President Lopez? After constructing a battery 
which would give some trouble to the Brazilian navy, -with his 
usual astute diplomacy, and with a view of allaying the wounded 
feelings of his neighbors, and to lull their government into a con- 
fiding belief as to the sincerity of his motives, he dispatched a 
minister to Eio Janeiro to renew negotiations. 

A treaty was concluded, granting to Brazil the right to navi- 
gate the Paraguay throughout, and reserving the question of 
limits for future adjustment. The Imperial papers were full of 
this treaty ; honors were showered upon the successful diplomat ; 
the struggle of years with Eosas and with Lopez was ended; 
Brazil had access by water to her northwest provinces, and ves- 
sels well freighted were dispatched to Cuyaba. But what is the 
end of it ? Every imaginable obstacle is thrown in the way by 
the government of Paraguay. Vessels are unnecessarily stopped 
at guardias and towns ; passports are vised and re-examined at 
each and all ; pilots are changed and cargoes examined — involv- 
ing not only delay but expenses not anticipated. The treaty from 
which so much was expected turns out a nullity. Brazil then 
sends an embassador to Asuncion with special instructions to re- 
move all difficulties. What is the result? He returns, having 
effected nothing.* 

And yet the government of Paraguay is suffered to pursue this 
course. Well may the President imagine himself irresponsible, 
and impress upon his people the " supremacy of the republic." 
But the greatest of all outrages has been perpetrated upon our 
flag. While peacefully pursuing the objects of the expedition, 

* Brazil, with certain warlike preparations, subsequently sent a minister to Para- 
guay, who brought that government to terms. 



286 OUTRAGE UPON THE WATER WITCH. 

when her commander, all the officers (save the first lieutenant and 
engineers), and the better part of the crew, were engaged upon a 
distant work, the Water Witch was wantonly fired into from the 
Port of Itapiru, one of her men killed, and the steamer damaged. 
It will be seen, in the sequel, that the vessel was in neutral wa- 
ters, and engaged only in the legitimate work of the expedition. 
It was the moment to give Paraguay a spirited rebuke that would 
have been remembered. In vain I sought the means of avenging 
the outrage without possibility of failure ; but it remained un- 
noticed until President Buchanan, in his first annual message, 
called the attention of Congress to our relations with Paraguay, 
and requested that means should be placed at his disposal to de- 
mand redress for the insult to our flag and for the wrongs inflicted 
upon American citizens.* 

It is made manifest by this enumeration of offenses that the 
Argentine States, France, Brazil, and the United States have tol- 

* "I regret to inform you that the President of Paraguay has refused to ratify 
the treaty between the United States and that state as amended by the Senate, the 
signature of which was mentioned in the message of my predecessor to Congress at 
the opening of its session in December, 1853. The reasons assigned for this refusal 
will appear in the correspondence herewith submitted. 

' ' It being desirable to ascertain the fitness of the river La Plata and its tribu- 
taries for navigation by steam, the United States steamer Water Witch was sent 
thither for that purpose in 1853. This enterprise was successfully carried on until 
February, 1855, when, while in the peaceful prosecution of her voyage up the Pa- 
rana river, the steamer was fired upon by a Paraguayan fort. The fire was re- 
turned ; but as the Water Witch was of small force, and not designed for offensive 
operations, she retired from the conflict. The pretext upon which the attack was 
made was a decree of the President of Paraguay of October, 1854, prohibiting for- 
eign vessels of war from navigating the rivers of that state. As Paraguay, how- 
ever, was the owner of but one bank of the river of that name, the other belonging 
to Corrientes, a state of the Argentine Confederation, the right of its government 
to expect that such a decree would be obeyed can not be acknowledged. But 
the Water Witch was not, properly speaking, a vessel of war. She was a small 
steamer engaged in a scientific enterprise intended for the advantage of commer- 
cial states generally. Under these circumstances I am constrained to consider the 
attack upon her as unjustifiable and as calling for satisfaction from the Paraguayan 
government. 

il Citizens of the United States also, who were established in business in Para- 
guay, have had their property seized and taken from them, and have otherwise 
been treated by the authorities in an insulting and arbitrary manner which requires 
redress. 

"A demand for these purposes will be made in a firm but conciliatory spirit. 
This will the more probably be granted if the Executive shall have authority to use 
other means in the event of a refusal. This is accordingly recommended." — Mes- 
sage. 



OUR TRUE POLICY. 287 

erated indignities and wrongs of far greater magnitude than those 
which have often been the cause of war. We must at least ad- 
mire the boldness of President Lopez, and the ability which char- 
acterizes his diplomatic course. At this moment he invites im- 
migration. His offers to foreign companies wishing to engage in 
industrial and commercial enterprises are specious and plausible. 
I believe that under the guarantee of treaties, followed by able 
representation, a great and annually increasing trade could be 
established with all the interior, states of South America, even 
with Paraguay. But, at the same time, a strict observance of the 
spirit and intent as well as of the letter of treaties must be exact- 
ed. The trimming and evasive policy, the constant effort to gain 
some advantage without the commission of open and avowed acts, 
which characterizes the course of the Paraguay government, 
should be arrested. That clause in treaties which secures to the 
resident foreigner the privileges and immunities extended to the 
natives would generally throw around him all needed guards 
against oppression. But what are the privileges of citizens of 
Paraguay ? Isolated, ignorant of the political or even geograph- 
ical divisions of the world ; unable to contrast the operations 
of other governments with their own, they submissively acquiesce, 
and say "amen" to all the mandates of the " supreme govern- 
ment." A foreigner, familiar with constitutional laws and indi- 
vidual rights, is naturally restive in Paraguay. 

But, on the other hand, "filibustering" will not create for us, 
as a nation, respect in the South American Eepublics. Neither 
will it promote our commercial interests nor advance civilization. 
The most brilliant oratorical efforts in our National Legislature 
upon the " Monroe doctrine" will be unavailing if we fail to con- 
vince them that our policy is genial and sympathetic. It is easy 
to have our flag respected without making it suspected. Among 
the states of La Plata there is a manifest struggle to advance. 
The course of Urquiza toward -our representative, Mr. Pendleton ; 
the Constitution of the Argentine States, modeled upon our own ; 
the dispatches from Bolivia, show that they look for political sym- 
pathy, and at the same time earnestly desire to enter into com- 
mercial intercourse with us. I believe that President Lopez, from 
his reception of our expedition, desires it. A few rebukes and 
able diplomatic representation will soon make known to that as- 
tute personage the terms upon which it can be maintained. 



288 LIEUTENANT MURDAUGH'S EXPEDITION. 



CHAPTEE XVI. 

Lieutenant Powell dispatched to Montevideo. — Mr. Murdaugh ordered to explore 
the southern and western parts of the Province. — Extract from Journal of Lieu- 
tenant Murdaugh. — Cotton. — Saladas. — Sugar. — San Roque. — Return to Bella 
Vista. — Goya. — Rincon de Soto. — A Tour in the Governor's Galera. — A Bivou- 
ac. — Curuzu Quatia. — Return. — River Mirinay. — Estancia Bonpland. — Res- 
tauracion. — Uruguayana. — Note from M. Bonpland. — Imprisonment of the Nat- 
uralist. — Tobacco. — Coffee. — Lagoon of Ybera. 

I hoped that nothing more would or could break in upon the 
legitimate work of the expedition. 

Lieutenant Powell was dispatched to Montevideo, with the 
Water Witch, for money, provisions, and ship-stores ; Lieutenant 
Murdaugh was sent to make a detailed survey of the Pass of Bel- 
la Vista, one of the most difficult on the Parana ; and to Acting 
Master Henry was assigned the continuation of the chart-work ; 
also the astronomical and meteorological observations at Corri- 
entes. 

The Meteorological Journal given in the Appendix will show 
the daily state of the weather, but I quote from my own private 
journal its changes, and the temperature of the 2d December 
throughout the coolest and warmest hours of the day. This is 
the first summer month, and although the day selected does not 
exhibit the highest rise' of the thermometer, it may be assumed as 
one of the hottest of that climate, and as showing the most sadden 
changes and greatest extremes of temperature. 

" At 6 A.M., thermometer 80° in the coolest part of the house ; 
at 9 A.M., in the patio, where there is a free circulation of air, 
it stands at 89°, wet-bulb 79° 5' ; clear light air from KKE.; op- 
pressively warm. At 12 M., thermometer 92°, wet-bulb 79° 5' ; 
partially cloudy; wind KN.E. At 12 45 P.M., a few drops of 
rain, cloudy ; thermometer 90° 3', wet-bulb 79° 5'. At 2 P.M., 
showers of rain ; wind east. At 4 P.M., thermometer 78° 5', wet- 
bulb 73° ; cloudy; windS.S.E." 

After completing the examination of the Bella Yista Pass, Mr. 
Murdaugh was sent on a tour through the southern and western 
part of the province. His course was south to Goya ; east to the 
Uruguay Eiver, passing through Curuzu Quatia; north, along 



TRAVELING AND TRANSPORTATION. 289 

its banks, to Kestauracion ; and thence to San Roque, on his re- 
turn to the capital : thus passing through the finest land of Corri- 
entes. He traveled by post — the most convenient way of passing 
through the country, notwithstanding the miserable horses usually 
found at the postas. By paying a small sum extra, good ones, 
which are generally the private property of the master of the 
post, can be had. 

I quote from Mr. Murdaugh's journal : 

" From the Eiachuelo (about nine miles from the capital) to the 
Arroyo Empedrado, the country is flat, with considerable wood- 
land in patches. These are happily called in Spanish islas (isl- 
ands). The road good. The Emepedrado is now about two 
feet deep, but at times it is not fordable. There is much fine 
timber, principally quebracho, on its banks, but it is never trans- 
ported by the river. 

" These countries have an extensive system of natural canaliza- 
tion in the riaclios (streams) and riacliuelos (rivulets) that course 
through the interior provinces. Yet it is wonderful to observe 
how carefully they are avoided as means of transportation or 
communication, while the ox- wagon, the vehicle of centuries, 
moves lazily on — so slowly that at a distance an observer can 
scarcely detect its movement ; carrying comparatively little, and 
consuming time, money, and labor unnecessarily. 

" About five miles south of this river the country becomes un- 
dulating, which is a great relief to the monotony of the pampas. 
At the distance of about eight miles from it stands the Capilla del 
Senor, on the banks of the Parana, containing about 500 inhabit- 
ants. At the port were several vessels loading with timber (que- 
bracho), which is brought from about eighteen miles in the inte- 
rior, in ox-wagons drawn by six oxen, with a relay of the same 
number. Each wagon carries three or four pieces of this timber. 
Each piece is eighteen feet in length and nine inches square ; three 
feet of which weighs one hundred pounds. The quality of the 
soil is much better than that generally found on the Parana. 
Considerable quantities of sugar-cane and corn are cultivated. 
At the posta, seven miles south of the Capilla, we stopped for the 
night. We managed to get a couple of little chickens for supper, 
and room enough to stretch our hammocks. Fifteen miles south 
of the Capilla we passed the Arroyo San Lorenzo, in the neigh- 
borhood of which the scenery is the finest I have seen in the prov- 
ince. The lands, sloping gradually to the river, remind one of 

19 



290 CULTIVATION OF COTTON. 

those pretty localities about Asuncion del Paraguay. For the 
same distance south of San Lorenzo the scene changes ; the coun- 
try is rather desolate, and so continues until reaching the neigh- 
borhood of Bella Vista. 

" Here we were warmly welcomed by our friend Mr. Henry 
Hall, one of an English firm engaged in dry -goods and hardware 
trade. This little town has the prettiest situation on the Parana, 
and bids fair to become a place of consequence. 

"Corn, tobacco, and sugar-cane are cultivated more extensively 
than in any other part of the province. Hides and timber are 
shipped from here ; the latter is brought from a distance of 18 
to 36 miles in ox-wagons, at a cost of 20 cents the yard. Our 
countryman, Mr. Yeatman, is struggling hard against weeds, 
thistles, want of labor, etc., in the cultivation of cotton. He has 
been at work for a year and a half, and thus far has failed entire- 
ly. He is now planting American cotton, with the hope of better 
success. He intends planting every year. He found that the 
perennial plant, after it has attained a growth of a year or more, 
deteriorates, and if not worked the annual product would be less 
and less. I am satisfied, after all that has been said in favor of it 
because of the economy of labor, that the cultivation of the annual 
plant would prove much more profitable, notwithstanding the 
necessary yearly, preparation of the ground. The best yield of a 
perennial plant is said to be four pounds of cotton in the seed. 

" Mr. Yeatman's selection of ground was, doubtless, unfortunate; 
and yet, so far as we have seen and heard, cotton is a product to 
which the soil of Corrientes is well adapted. ISTo man should at- 
tempt its cultivation in these countries without first securing the 
necessary labor, for it is not to be had on an emergency. If the 
work could be done by a gaucho on horseback, there would be no 
difficulty. All inclosures must be made of iron wire, there being 
no timber in the province suitable for such a purpose. 

" Outside of Bella Yista the horizon is as unbroken as that at 
sea. The town is hid among orange-groves. A good tree here 
is worth several dollars per annum ; so that any one who has a 
grove of a thousand trees possesses a respectable fortune. Yet, 
because they do not pay for eight years, an orange-grove is rarely 
seen, save on the estancia of some foreigner. 

" To pass through the little town of Saladas, we had to retrace 
our steps nearly to the San Lorenzo. At the posta just before 
reaching the town, a miserable rancho, the wife of the master is a 



SALADAS.— SAN EOQUE. 291 

ruhia — a woman with light hair and eyes. She is a native-born 
lady ; the most pleasing woman of her class I have ever met with 
in the provinces. She never allows her children to speak Ghia- 
rani, and always addresses them in Spanish — and very clear and 
pretty Spanish it is. Children of the pampas will mount a horse 
as soon as they are able to walk ; but here is her son, a boy but 
four years of age, who has never done so. He shows an aversion 
to horses, and insists upon being a sailor. Living fifteen miles 
from the river, I doubt very much if he ever saw a vessel. This 
looks like natural adaptation. His mother's opportunities for ac- 
quiring such good manners were not superior to his for being a 
sailor in embryo. 

" Saladas is situated amid islas of wood and surrounded by ex- 
tensive lagoons, with fine fertile lands between them. These la- 
goons are the homes of innumerable wild fowl ; and the land, 
where cultivated, produces most luxuriantly. 

" Saladas is a very pretty place, containing about 500 inhabit- 
ants, principally employed in timber-cutting. A number of mag- 
nificent orange-trees around the town are each worth $2 per year. 
The soil is well adapted to corn and sugar-cane, but rather wet 
for cotton, although the plant is said to bear well for five years, 
yielding four pounds in the seed. The only cultivation is a little 
clearing around the roots. 

" The making of sugar here would be a very profitable busi- 
ness. Labor, though scarce, may be had at four dollars the month. 
There is not a pound of sugar made in the country. All the de- 
mand is supplied with the most indifferent Brazilian, at prices 
that would pay well. Mr. Hall, in Bella Vista, makes molasses 
and rum of all the cane he can procure. Here is a fine field for 
immigration. The country must become agricultural, for the 
scarcity of cattle has made the raising of them in certain parts of 
Corrientes a thing that was. 

" Steam saw-mills also should pay well in this part of the coun- 
try. The large trees have been left standing because of the diffi- 
culty in their transportation. These could easily be reduced to 
transportable timber, and by the Santa Lucia Eiver, distant nine 
miles, floated into the Parana; instead of, as now, carting it 36 
miles at an expense of 20 cents the vara. 

u Arrived, at San Eoque, distant from Saladas 24 miles. This 
village, situated on the left bank of the Santa Lucia, has about 
300 inhabitants. The houses, as in all other towns of its size, are 



292 BELLA VISTA.— GOYA.— SANTA LUCIA. 

built of adobe or of a net-work of poles, plastered and white- 
washed both inside and out ; the roof thatched or covered with 
the trunks of palms. They generally have corridors, under which 
are the sidewalks. The plaza is large and the streets are narrow. 
I am told that at the lowest state of the river the Santa Lucia has 
four feet of water from here to the Parana, with a current of one 
and a half knots. The water is clear and limpid, but is said to 
be a little brackish when the river is low. 

" The commandante told me that about three months past cir- 
culars were issued to all the commandantes, that in case of a visit 
from Captain Page they were to do all in their power to forward 
his views." 

From San Eoque Mr. Murdaugh returned to Bella Yista. He 
found the country between the two places very much intersected 
by lagoons, the road for miles in extent being six inches under 
water. There was very little cultivation, and it is altogether a 
desolate portion of the province. He says : 

"Just before dark the postillion got so far ahead that I lost 
sight of him, and for an hour was floundering about in the high 
grass and water by myself, under the expectation of seeing my 
horse give out at any moment. But as there was no dry spot, I 
determined to ride him till he fell, and then lie upon him until 
he should get up again ; or, should he lie so long, until daylight. 
I blessed the Spanish race. Three hundred years have these peo- 
ple occupied the country, and not one hand's turn have they done 
toward making a road. I managed to get out, fortunately, where 
the postillion was waiting for me. My remaining wrath was ex- 
pended on him. We reached Bella Yista at 9 P.M. 

" From this place to Goya — a distance of 54 miles — the country 
presented the same aspect : flat elevations (lomas), here and there 
a house, with half an acre under cultivation with corn, a little to- 
bacco, and a few pumpkin vines, and no trees save a few umbus. 
The post-horses were wretched. I hired better ones from the 
master of the post. At 49 miles reached the town of Santa Lucia, 
about seven miles north of the river of the same name. It is one 
of the old Jesuit establishments, and has the best church I have 
seen in the province. Five leagues to Goya ; hired good horses 
and a vaqueano at seven paper dollars ($1 60). ,In crossing the 
Santa Lucia Eiver (75 yards wide, current 1-J knots) the water 
was up to the horses' backs. Two and a half leagues to Goya ; 
land level, with espinilla growth. 



GOVERNOR PUJOL. 293 

" Goya is a thriving place. It is rapidly overhauling Corrientes 
and will soon be ahead of it. A large quantity of cheese and 
many hides are shipped from here for Buenos Ayres and Monte- 
video. Through it the back country to the Uruguay is supplied 
with all its necessaries. Many houses are better than those of the 
capital, and there is an air of life and activity that is refreshing in 
such a backwood country. 

" Yisited the governor, Senor Don Juan Pujol, who is spending 
a few days here in his tour of the province. He is a man of easy 
and pleasing manners, and is agreeable in conversation. 

" The Eincon de Soto, a commanding promontory just above 
the mouth of the Eiver Santa Lucia and on the Parana, is the lo- 
cation selected by the governor for the establishment of the colo- 
ny of French immigrants who are expected to arrive soon at 
Montevideo. 

" On Christmas eve we went at midnight with two senoritas to 
the ' Mass of the Cocks' {Mesa da las Gallas), and on Christmas 
night we attended the Club Ball, where we saw many very pretty 
girls, of graceful manners and dressed in good taste. 

" Having accepted the invitation of the governor to accompany 
him in his tour, at least so far as across the province to the Uru- 
guay, we took our seats in his galera. In this omnibus-like equi- 
page were four of us inside — the governor, his secretary, Johnny 
Page, and myself. We were drawn by six horses mounted by 
gauchos, with attendants on horseback. We numbered four offi- 
cers, two clerks, thirty-six soldiers, and three servants. Off we 
dashed at half speed, trumpets sounding, sabres clashing, ladies 
waving their adieus from windows and balconies. Each soldier 
carries a carbine, sword, cartridge-box with twenty rounds, a 
valise, and any quantity of nick-nacks useful on a journey. At 
two leagues from Goya we left the low flat lands and entered upon 
the lomas, with lagoons and palms. Stopping for siesta at the 
estancia of Don Jose Fernandez, we partook of a beautifully pro- 
vided dinner, which was concluded with a draft upon the gover- 
nor's cake and wine from the locker of the galera. The soldiers 
soon had a fat bullock converted into asados, round a blazing fire, 
each one laying in store a ration for supper, which was strung 
under the neck of his horse. 

" We moved on after the refreshments of dinner and siesta, and, 
passing through a park-like country of palms, covered with fine 
fat cattle that had kept the grass short, we were overtaken at a 



294 RIDE WITH THE GOVERNOR. 

rancho by a heavy rain. Here we stopped for the night. The 
governor and secretary took the rancho, running the risk of being 
not a little annoyed; the two clerks took a covered cart, while 
Johnny and myself occupied the galera. Each soldier, having 
picketed his horse, procured a dry hide, and, bending it into a 
roof-like shape, crawled in for protection from the rain. 

" We started early in the morning, and soon reached Corrientes 
Eiver, over which, from its depth, we were obliged to swim the 
horses, and transport the galera on canoes. Trunks of palms were 
passed under it, resting across two canoes, one on either side. 
Three horses, made fast to it by 'lassos' from their tails, were 
started for the ojDposite shore by about twenty soldiers, who, 
swimming and shouting, kept them in the proper direction. The 
river here — the Santilan Pass — is about two hundred yards wide, 
with a current of two knots. The country in the immediate vi- 
cinity of the river is like an immense sweet-potato patch, of ant- 
hills from two to three feet in height, which greatly impeded our 
progress. It was necessary to level them for the galera to pass. 
This required the use of the pick axe, so hard and well-constructed 
are these dwellings of the ant. 

"Passing this 'Malisal,' we got upon a fine rolling country, in- 
tersected by arroyos and skirted by espinillas. The soil is dark 
and rich. The grass here, called flechilla, is short, with a stem 
bearing seed similar to oats. The governor says that for cattle it 
is superior to the alfalfa, and, judging from the appearance of the 
animals, nothing can be better. This grass extends to the Uru- 
guay. It i& not found west of the Corrientes, nor in Paraguay. 
I regretted that it was not the season of bearing seed. The gov- 
ernor promised to have some of it gathered for our collection." 

There is a gradual elevation of the land from the Corrientes to 
Curuzu Quatia, from whence it gently descends again to the Uru- 
guay. This is certainly the most valuable part of the province ; 
but, like most others, it is better adapted to grazing than cultiva- 
tion. There are, however, wide fields of fine lands open to both. 
Cattle are now selling at $10 the head, and horses, equal to any 
in South America, at $16 for the best. Very favorite animals at 
times sell for as much as $30. Mares are valued only for their 
hides and tallow, and sell at about fifty cents per head. "We found 
rich milk through the country, but it is used only for making 
cheese. Mr. Murdaugh speaks of the quality of beef as being su- 
perior to any he has eaten in South America. 



PARTING WITH THE GOVERNOR. 295 

"Soldiers had been sent on ahead; and on our arrival at the 
posta we found a fat beeve stripped of his hide, and ready for the 
asado. On the arrival of the galera the troops form a line to re- 
ceive the governor as he alights ; and at the sound of the trumpet 
each man dismounts, and in the shortest time imaginable his horse 
is divested of his trappings, and let loose. Four men at a time 
enter a well-stocked corral, and each man lassos his horse, and 
pickets him outside to be ready for the morning. The soldiers 
then collect in groups, light fires, prepare the asados, and arrange 
the beds out of the various parts belonging to the recado. All 
this, mingled with neighing of the liberated horses, the clatter of 
those in the corral, and the shouts of the men, presents a lively 
and exciting scene, to the enjoyment of which the savory odor of 
the asado adds not a little. 

"We reached Curuzu Quatia in the afternoon at 4 P.M., near 
which the governor was met by all the principal men of the 
place, and escorted into town under salvos of fire-crackers, rock- 
ets, ringing of bells, etc. Curuzu Quatia is one of the oldest 
Jesuit stations. It has been several times destroyed during the 
civil wars, and now contains not more than two hundred inhabi- 
tants. 

"Finding that the governor will be detained here longer than 
he anticipated I shall be constrained to leave him, and shall return, 
to the capital, coasting a short distance along the Uruguay, leav- 
ing Johnny,* at the earnest solicitation of the governor, who has 
taken a great fancy to him. How far in advance of his country- 
men generally is the governor ! He is a liberal, intelligent gen- 
tleman. His politeness and kindness during our short journey 
together will not soon be forgotten. He has ordered a soldier to 
accompany me, with letters to the different commandantes on the 
route, and orders that I shall be furnished with the best horses. 

" Set out January 1st, 1855, for Eestauracion, via Santa Ana. 
At ten leagues crossed the Eiver Mirinay, a tributary of the Uru- 
guay, and taking its rise in the Lake Ibira. Its depth is four feet, 
width twenty -five yards, current 1J knots. The country passed 
through very much the same. At sunset stopped at the estancia 
of Mr. Bonpland — the former companion and friend of Humboldt 

* The governor's kindness to my son was truly paternal ; he presented him with 
a horse, and, while indulging him in every roguish amusement, made him write 
Spanish daily. When he returned, after -an absence of some weeks, it was under 
the protection of a soldier ; and they made on horseback seventy- five miles in one 
day ; quite a ride for a boy of thirteen, who complained of no fatigue. 



296 RESTAURACION.— MR. BONPLAND, 

— and was warmly welcomed by him. The governor had given 
me a letter to him. His conversation was exceedingly interesting. 
He talked much of the great Humboldt and his travels. His age 
is eighty-two, but he is still active ; will mount a horse, and ride 
twelve to fourteen leagues a day ; but says he does not now gal- 
lop. He has a house full of children by a native wife ; possesses 
two estancias — one near San Boja, in Brazil, well stocked with 
cattle and sheep. He takes great care of his garden, in which 
he has growing some little of almost every thing, even to the tea 
plant. The soil is light. Cotton, he says, is not worth cultivat- 
ing on the Uruguay ; neither is the land east of the Corrientes 
River adapted to it. His Irish potatoes are very good. His house 
is situated about one mile from the right bank of the Uruguay. 

"He accompanied me as far as the little river Santa Ana, on 
my way to Restauracion. He had received Captain Page's invi- 
tation, and expressed a strong desire to be with us in an explora- 
tion of the Upper Parana. 

" Restauracion is a thriving little town of 500 inhabitants, situ- 
ated on the right bank of the Uruguay, which at this point is 
about one mile wide, six to eight feet deep, current 1J knots, 
banks sixty feet high. At the season of high water hides and 
yerba are shipped to Buenos Ayres or Montevideo, and merchan- 
dise is brought up in return, for the northeast part of the prov- 
ince. The fall (salto) between this place and Concordia, below, 
can be passed only at high water. There are a number of vessels 
waiting for the rise, for which there seems to be no invariable 
period. 

" Just opposite is the town of Uruguay ana in Brazil, containing 
about 1500 souls. The houses are well built, very superior to 
those in Restauracion. It is apparently a growing place. Wish- 
ing to recross the river, I was stopped by the custom-house offi- 
cers, and told that it was after the hour when communication with 
the other side was allowed. On going to the commandante and 
collector they both promptly issued permission for me to cross. 

" On my return to the capital, from which this place is eighty 
-leagues, I took the route through the little village of Mercedes — 
of 150 souls. Crossed the Mirinay ; depth 2^ feet, rocky, current 
strong. Made 72 miles — horses bad; and passed through San 
Roque, Saladas, and Capilla del Senor, where I entered the road 
already traveled. The Rio Corrientes, where I crossed it, was 
deep, with about a two-knot current. 



LETTER FROM BONPLAND. 297 

" The country through which I had passed from Eestauracion 
to San Koque is very much the same as that already spoken of 
between Goya and Curuzu Quatia." 

On reference to the map the route taken by Lieutenant Mur- 
daugh will be seen. It was so directed as to embrace different 
sections of the province, and give a comprehensive idea as to their 
agricultural and pastoral resources. 

It will be observed that Mr. Murdaugh alludes to my invitation 
to Bonpland, whose presence as a member of our party would 
have been a pleasure, and a great privilege. I thought he would 
feel some interest in participating in our explorations, and ad- 
dressed a letter asking him to join us, and go over again for a 
time the life of his early days. He now (January, 1855,) accepted 
the invitation ; and we should have had the benefit and enjoy- 
ment of his company but for the occurrences that arrested our 
work on the Parana. Driven out of Paraguay by the Dictator 
Francia — for it could not be regarded as a release — Mr. Bonpland 
continued to reside in La Plata ; and, being now over eighty, will 
probably never leave the country. 

I subjoin a translation of Mr. Bonpland's letter in reply to my 
invitation to him to join our party in the exploration of the Pa- 
rana. 

"Santa Ana, January 2d, 1855. 
" To Th. J. Page, Commander of the Steamer Water Witch : 

" Sir, — I must appear very culpable in your eyes for not having before 
answered the letter you did me the honor to write to me from the town of 
Concepcion, November, 1853. Permit me, then, to state some circum- 
stances which will lessen my culpability. 

" I must first thank you for your obliging offers ; they are in consonance 
with my wishes, and I had firmly resolved to accept them, when I left for 
Montevideo, where I was obliged to remain for a few days. On my return 
to San Boja I intended to proceed to Paraguay, and avail myself of your 
polite invitation, as well as your agreeable society, and that of the officers 
who accompany you. 

"While engaged in preparation for my journey a report reached me that 
you were not in Paraguay, and that the Water Witch was commanded by 
another naval officer. 

" You will see in these few words, Captain, the cause of my silence, and 
the suspension of my journey to Paraguay. 

" Yesterday evening I was agreeably surprised by Mr. William Henry 
Murdaugh, who honored me by a visit at my humble cottage. I am now 



298 FEANCIA AND BONPLAND. 

certain that you command the "Water Witch, and that you propose to 
ascend the Parana, for which reasons I hasten to address you these lines. 

" From your invitation and the conversation I have had with Mr. Mur- 
daugh I am going to ask the consent of his Excellency, Governor Pujol, to 
accompany you in the Parana, and if, as I hope, he shares my opinion, I 
will hasten to notify you, and ask beforehand if it will be agreeable to you. 
During fifteen years I have had in my service an Indian of the Guayana 
tribe, who has ascended the Parana above ' Corpus,' and with your consent 
he will accompany me, and he will perhaps be found of some assistance. 
He is a reliable Indian, faithful, honest, and possessed of good qualities. 
If I should be so happy as to accompany you, we will, I hope, be able to 
make some useful collections for the museum of your inimitable country. 

" I have the honor to salute you, Captain, and beg you to accept the as- 
surance of my respect. 

" Your obliged and devoted servant, AMAD13 BONPLAND." 

Bonpland's association with Humboldt in his travels, and his 
detention in Paraguay, are facts known to the whole scientific 
world. 

Sir Woodbine Parrish mentions that, upon his arrival at Buenos 
Ay res, in 1824, in applying to Francia for the release of British 
detenues, he also interested himself in behalf of foreigners whose 
governments were unrepresented in La Plata. Among them were 
Eengger and Longchamp, but above all, Bonpland, who, when 
residing in an Argentine state, pursuing his botanic studies, had 
been seized and carried off a prisoner by an armed force sent for 
that purpose across the Parana. He was residing within the ter- 
ritory of a state at peace with Paraguay ; but he was cultivating 
the yerba. This was a grievous offense to the dictator, who re- 
garded the South American tea as his peculiar monopoly. 

After a time the naturalist was kept as a prisoner at large; 
that is, restricted to a few leagues around the town of Santa Ma- 
ria, where, with the philosophy of the French character, and un- 
daunted by misfortune, he employed himself so actively, useful- 
ly, and acceptably to the simple Paraguayans, whose condition 
he endeavored to improve and ameliorate, that he at last excited 
the distrust and envy of the dictator, who sent him out of the 
country, as summarily as he had been made a prisoner, after a de- 
tention of nine years. Mr. Grandsire, the special agent of the In- 
stitute of France, and the British charge d'affaires, had previously 
in vain sought to effect his release. An order finally came from 
Asuncion to the commandante of Santa Maria to remove him ; and 



CORRIENTES. 299 

on the same night he was placed in a canoe, paddled across the Pa- 
rana to Corrientes, and there left, with nothing but a few clothes. 

"We find that he is again, at the ripe old age of 82, actively en- 
gaged in agricultural pursuits in Corrientes, with a Spanish Amer- 
ican wife, and a large family of children. 

Though the territory of Corrientes comprises an extent, from 
north to south, of nearly five hundred miles, with more or less 
width from east to west, its population, inclusive of that of the 
capital, which has from twelve to fifteen thousand inhabitants, 
does not probably exceed fifty thousand souls. It is intersected 
by several navigable rivers, and has a large number of lakes. Its 
lowlands, as well as the lomas, are highly fertile. 

The city of Corrientes, one of the oldest of La Plata, founded 
in 1588, soon after the settlements of Buenos Ayres and Santa 
Fe, is admirably placed near the confluence of the Parana and 
Paraguay, and about seventy miles below the mouth of the Yer- 
mejo. It is the principal market of the Chaco Indians for furs. 
In addition to the resources of the province, which would un- 
doubtedly be great under an improved system of culture, it has, 
by the rivers, a communication with the eastern and western 
shores of Paraguay and the western borders of Brazil ; by the Ver- 
mejo with Bolivia ; and again south by Buenos Ayres, its Atlantic 
outlet. The men are great horsemen, active and temperate, but 
disinclined to work. Inducements are held out to immigration ;* 
and, under the present Constitution and the stimulus to trade pro- 
duced by the opening of the rivers, it offers an admirable field for 
enterprise and industry. This province has suffered greatly from 
the civil wars that have distracted the country, and the decrease 
of cattle is enormous. In every direction we noted the marks of 
abandoned estancias, possessing an adaptability for grazing and 
agriculture apparent to the most casual observer. 

With careful culture, the tobacco will probably prove, in quan- 
tity and quality, quite, equal to that of Paraguay, and with the 
introduction of agricultural implements, both cotton and sugar 
may be grown with success. Indigo and cochineal have been ex- 
ported in small quantities, and a new species of the former, called 
"yuzo," was some years since made known by Bonpland as an 
article that might become very valuable as an export. I have 
alluded to the silk of a small black spider, a specimen of which I 
collected from a hedge and brought home with me. Bonpland 

* See Appendix G. 



300 LAGOON OF YBERA. 

sent some of it to France, where it was pronounced unfit for man- 
ufacturing purposes ; but the cocoons of another spider, some of 
which I also brought home, are, from their appearance, undoubt- 
edly equal to those of the silk- worm, which they resemble in form 
and size. They are spun upon the orange-trees, and are exactly 
the color of its ripe fruit. 

As an experiment, coffee has been cultivated, with success. I 
have alluded to the orange-groves. The fruit is not equal to that 
of Paraguay, but no product finds a readier sale. Parts of the 
province are well timbered, and the bark of the curupay is con- 
sidered invaluable in tanning. Under the present system, hides, 
tobacco, timber, for Buenos Ay res, and wool, may be considered 
the staples. 

The most extraordinary physical feature of this province is the 
Lagoon of Ybera, which I regretted that I was unable to examine. 
According to Azara, it is fed by filtration from the Parana ; and 
yet is itself the source of four considerable rivers — the Mirinay, 
which flows into the Uruguay, the Santa Lucia, the Bateles, and 
Corrientes, which disembogue into the Parana. There are parts of 
it, inaccessible either to boats or horsemen, that are covered with 
aquatic plants, and even considerable trees. It was Azara's opin- 
ion that the Parana itself once coursed through this lake, and that 
it will, in the course of ages, resume its ancient channel. 

It is difficult to explain the origin of the name ybera (brilliant 
water), * handed down among the Guarani race from the remotest 
ages, before the Conquest. Some convulsion of nature may have 
brought to its present marshy state what was once a beautiful ex- 
panse of water ; or, probably, y-bera may yet be applied in no in- 
appropriate sense to its unexplored interior. D'Orbigny, under 
extraordinary difficulties, though at a dry period, forced a pas- 
sage some distance into this lagoon. So far as his experience 
went, he discovered it to be not so much one monotonous and ex- 
tended marsh as a succession of lagoons, two or three miles in 
width, which seemed to have a uniformity of direction, and so 
confirmed, in some degree, the suppositions of Azara. The depth 
of water, though varying, was at no time very great, until reach- 
ing what was supposed to be the heart of the lake. What lies 
beyond has always been with the Indians a fruitful subject of su- 
perstition and marvel. 

* Y — "water;" bera — "brilliant." 



DINNER AT CORRIENTES. 3Q1 



CHAPTER XVII. 

The Dinner at Corrientes. — The Address. — Toasts and Wine. — A Cargo of Lum- 
ber. — The Saladero. — The Water Witch dispatched up the Parana. — Sudden 
Return of Lieutenant Jeffers. — The Steamer run aground by the Pilot. — Pired 
into from the Fort, killing the Helmsman. — False Claims of President Lopez to 
the Channel. — Erroneous Statements and Fancy Sketches of the President of 
Paraguay. — Affection for the Salto Grande. — Dispatch to our Government. — Its 
Contents refuted. — Return to Buenos Ayres. — Lieutenant Powell dispatched to 
Rio. — Arrival of the Savannah. — Indecision of the Commodore. — Refusal to 
grant the Guns. — United States Legation versus United States Squadron. — What 
should have been done. — Dispatch from Seiior Vasquez. — The Commodore im- 
pressed with the Fact of the Parana containing sufficient Depth of Water to ad- 
mit a Sloop of War. 

Some of the crew asked permission to give a dinner to their 
foreign friends, principally the carpenters of Corrientes who had 
been engaged in the repairs of the small steamer. The request 
was of course granted, and a busier, happier set of souls can not 
be imagined than they were in their preparations for this feast. 
Pantry and stores were thrown open to them, but the best table- 
cloth the steward could produce was not equal to the dimensions 
of their table, which was set in the patio of the house we occu- 
pied, and made of planking designed for the repairs of the Pilco- 
mayo ; but some yards of bleached cotton supplied the deficiency, 
and the purchase of a few glasses, added to our stock, completed 
the preparations. By their own arrangement nothing stronger 
than wine was allowed, and a bottle or two from my nearly ex- 
hausted supply was sent, with a message that it was from "home," 
for none like sailors on foreign stations realize the magic of that 
word. An awning, which extended over nearly the whole patio, 
excluded the sun, and, with the assistance of our steward and 
cook, a substantial and excellent dinner was set out, not even 
lacking the elegant little adornments of grander occasions ; for 
there were many bouquets of the prettiest flowers to be found in 
the city of Corrientes ; and the American flag— considered an in- 
dispensable decoration in all foreign entertainments— was festoon- 
ed between the columns of the patio at one end of the table, while 
that of the Argentine Confederation graced the other. 

Toward the close of the dinner a deputation came and invited 



302 PROGRESS OF TRADE. 

me to look out upon the party in their enjoyment. I was in 
doubt as to the object of this call, but accepted the invitation, 
and found a chair ready for me at a little distance from the table. 
One of the company moved that Mr. Meredith should read the 
address. Mr. Meredith, a lad eighteen or nineteen years of age, 
from Baltimore, rose and from some sheets of foolscap read a 
speech, which would have been a little embarrassing — for, like 
the President of Paraguay at the ball of the Chief Justice, I was 
obliged to listen to my own praises — had I not been so much as- 
tonished at its admirable phraseology and style. I expressed 
gratification at seeing them thus rationally enjoying themselves, 
and retired. Then followed songs, toasts, and sentiments, which 
were unsparingly served out with wine and cigars. 

On similar occasions in "high life," the "proprieties" could not 
have been more strictly observed; and there were "sentiments" 
indicative of good sense, wit, and intelligence, sometimes lacking 
at such festivities. 

These men had been under my command for nearly two years, 
without a death or casualty. Some had been confided to me as 
"hard cases" by tearful mothers, who had always known a grace- 
less " Hal" or " Bill" to mislead their Jack, who " had a good 
heart, but would be led astray;" and a "man-of-war" is consid- 
ered an asylum for all such. But I must do them the justice to 
say that the conduct of this crew had been highly creditable, and 
to the end of the cruise — three years and five months — with one 
or two exceptions, all that could be desired. 

The arrival of the Water Witch from Montevideo now expe- 
dited my movements. On board of her was Lieutenant JefTers, 
who, on application to join the expedition, had been ordered by 
Commodore Salter to report to me. 

One fact I must notice, to mark the progress of trade since the 
opening of the rivers. A vessel of the country arrived with a 
small lot of American pine boards and scantling, which was sold 
at 12^ cents the foot— the price I paid both here and at Asun- 
cion per yard for sawing plank of native woods. This lumber 
had been shipped to Buenos Ayres from the United States, dis- 
posed of, purchased again, and re-shipped to Corrientes, where it 
sold for less than native lumber, paying at each change of hands 
a reasonable percentage. And yet timber is one of the export 
articles of this Province. Quebracho sells here, in stocks of eight 
inches square, at 75 cents to 87 cents the vara, or 25 to 29 cents 



THE SALADERO. 303 

the foot. The operations of a steam saw-mill, nearly completed 
by an enterprising Frenchman, will do away with the old whip- 
saws now lining the beach. 

I visited the saladero (slaughter-house) of an Englishman, which 
was just opened near the city, on the banks of the Parana, to 
witness the operation of converting cattle into jerked beef, hides, 
and tallow. 

Each animal is brought up to the "bull-ring" by the lasso, 
pierced at the back of the head by a sharp -pointed knife, and 
rolled off on a rail-car, to be skinned. The corral was large and 
well stocked, Mr. Hughes having a few days before purchased 
from the southern part of the province a fine lot of cattle, for 
which he paid $9 the head, a threefold increase in price within a 
few years. In the Buenos Ayres market the hides were worth 
$6 50 each ; the jerked beef — about 200 lbs. to the animal — $12 ; 
and the tallow — from 25 to 50 lbs. — about $3 ; the latter, intes- 
tines, bones, head, and feet, are thrown into immense wooden 
vats, and subjected for some time to steam pressure, which ex- 
tracts nearly every particle of grease ; it is then drawn off clean 
and put in hogsheads ready for shipping. The refuse of the vats 
is used for fuel. 

On the 30th of January, the Taquari, a Paraguay steamer, half 
man-of-war, and half merchantman, with an armament of five 
medium 32 -pounders, arrived at Corrientes; she received from 
the "Water Witch the usual official visit and offer of service. 
This vessel was built in England, and purchased by General Lo- 
pez, son of the President, who had been on a general mission to 
several of the European Courts, and was now on his return to 
Asuncion, having crossed the Atlantic in her. 

Hoping that the alterations in the small steamer would make 
her suitable for the exploration of the Salado, and intending to 
form there two parties, I detailed for the service all the surveying 
officers, with the exception of Lieutenant Jeffers. He was left in 
charge of the Water Witch, with instructions to ascend the Para- 
na so far as the island Apipe? a distance of over one hundred 
miles from its juncture with the Paraguay, at which point there 
were supposed to be rapids — the first obstruction met with from 
the Capes of La Plata. Lieutenant Jeffers was instructed to de- 
termine their character. This short work, of a hundred miles or 
more, I felt assured could be accomplished before my return. 

With Lieutenants Powell, Murdaugh, and Henry, Assistant 



304 ATTACK UPON THE WATER WITCH. 

Surgeon Carter, Assistant Engineer Stump, and eighteen men, I 
left Corrientes on the 31st of January, 1855, for the Salado, ex- 
pecting to encounter, from all I could learn, numerous inhospi- 
table and daring bands of Indians. The performance of the Pilco- 
mayo was miserable — worse than before the alterations were made 
in her. She was, in fact, worthless. This I had feared, and con- 
sidered possible, and, as a reserve for surveying purposes, I had 
in tow two metallic boats. But I was not prepared for the new 
troubles that were brewing. The vials of President Lopez were 
not exhausted. 

On the 3d of February, when we were about two hundred miles 
below Corrientes, the Water Witch hove in sight. What could 
be the matter? Speculation ran wild in our little boat. The 
suspense was soon over. 

The Water Witch had been stopped in her ascent of the Pa- 
rana ; fired into from the Fort of Itapiru ; the man at the helm 
killed, and the steamer slightly damaged in her hull. My feel- 
ings may be imagined at this outrage to our flag, while borne by 
a vessel under my command ; for absence from her made me not 
less sensible to the insult. In a few words the tale was told. 
For a particular account of it, I append Lieutenant Jeffers's official 
report.* 

The steamer had a native pilot on board, who was as well ac- 
quainted with the river as the wood-cutters of Apipe, or the 
orange-dealers along the shores of Corrientes usually are. Lieu- 
tenant Jeffers had advanced but a short distance above the junc- 
tion of the Parana and Paraguay, plotting the work as he pro- 
gressed, when, from very deep water, the vessel was run upon a 
sand-bank in six feet water, the lead at the gangway indicating 
no material change in the depth. While in the act of getting the 
steamer afloat, a boat came alongside from a fort on the Paraguay 
shore, where was a nag-staff, but no flag flying, and presented a 
paper to Lieutenant Jeffers, who returned it to the messenger, in- 
forming him that he did not read Spanish. This, with the sub- 
stitution of the word "Spanish" fou "English," was President 
Lopez's reply to my communication in behalf of Americans in 
Asuncion. 

He observed some bustle and activity at the fort, and, to be 
prepared for any emergency, put the vessel in the best state of 
defense he could, but scarcely admitting even to himself the pos- 
sibility of attack. 

* See Appendix IT 









Ill 

ill j. 



11 




ATTACK UPON THE WATER WITCH. 307 

She was got afloat, and on asking the pilot where lay the chan- 
nel, he unhesitatingly said that it was near the Paraguay shore ; 
but he had supposed the river high enough to enable the Water 
Witch to pass over the shoals near the left bank, and made the 
attempt without informing the commanding officer. 

The pilot, like many other Argentinos of the same class, looked 
upon Paraguay as a semi-civilized country, and was anxious to 
put a great distance between the Water Witch and Port Itapiru. 
He was ordered to change the course of the vessel, and the nature 
of the work was again intelligibly explained to him, that he might 
understand the importance of keeping her in mid-channel, regard- 
less of its vicinity to the Paraguay shore, or whether or not there 
was water enough outside of it. 

I beg to call especial attention to the two drawings of the river 
at this point — the fancy sketch sent by President Lopez to our 
government and one from the actual survey. I do not hesitate 
to assert that they never would be recognized as representing the 
same locality. When the Water Witch was within close shot, 
two or three blank cartridges were fired from the fort in quick 
succession, followed by a shot. At what part of the vessel it was 
aimed I can only judge from President Lopez's dispatch to our 
State Department, where he magnanimously says it was directed 
so as to "pass ahead." If so, it struck wide of the mark, and 
was unfortunately effective ; for it passed through the after port, 
cut away the wheel, and killed the helmsman. Lieutenant JefTers 
had disregarded the blank cartridges, and up to this time had 
withheld his fire. Indeed, his means of defense, with three how- 
itzers — one 24-pounder and two 12-pounders — were small against 
a brick or stone fort. But when this shot came, he returned it as 
rapidly as the reduced number of officers and crew and the dis- 
abled condition of the helm would admit. The accuracy of the 
fire was seen in cutting away the flag-staff and in the shrapnell 
grazing the low wall ; for the guns were mounted en barbette. We 
learned afterward that several Paraguayans were killed ; some 
reports said eleven, others fifteen. The Water Witch was struck 
ten times, but the first was the only shot that did any execution, 
though we learned that the firing from the fort was directed by a 
person formerly of the French navy, who had entered the service 
of Paraguay. 

The pilot, very much alarmed, -ran below; and during the 
shipping of the spare tiller the steamer drifted with the current 



308 TRUE AND FANCY SKETCHES. 

to the edge of the narrow channel into ten feet water. When 
hauled upon deck, he declared she would be aground if the at- 
tempt to proceed were persevered in, and insisted upon backing 
her down. 

She had by this time passed all but one of the six guns, and 
would soon have been out of range, but, in backing, was again 
exposed to the fire of the fort. 

My first feeling of regret was that I had not, with the full com- 
plement of officers and crew, undertaken this corner of the work. 
Had it been so, this affair would never have taken place ; for the 
detachment of officers and men from the Water Witch was 
doubtless as well known in Paraguay as to myself, and this hos- 
tile proceeding explained what had, I confess, claimed but a 
passing notice. For a day or two before our departure, a small 
Paraguay boat had been hovering about Corrientes, and as the 
Pilcomayo steamed off, this little craft passed close to us, and 
pulled rapidly up the river. She was doubtless a spy, and gave 
immediate information as to the division of our party. 

That this outrage may appear in its true light, it must be borne 
in mind that the decree of the 3d of October, 1854, can not pos- 
sibly be made to include those waters in which the Water Witch 
was when she was fired into. Indeed, no part of the Eiver Pa- 
rana is exclusively under the jurisdiction of Paraguay ; and up to 
the fort Itapiru, and for one or two hundred miles beyond, that 
river is the common boundary between the Argentine Confedera- 
tion (on the northern border of Corrientes) and Paraguay. The 
insult in itself is one that can not be tolerated ; it is, however, 
eclipsed by the fraud which President Lopez attempts to impose 
upon the public through the columns of the Seminario, but, above 
all, in a dispatch to the United States government, inclosing a 
fancy sketch of the river, fort, and environs, representing the shots 
fired in defense by the Water Witch, after her helmsman was 
killed, as a hostile movement against the fort, and gravely re- 
quests that the officers in charge may be " severely punished." 

On the opposite page is a reduced copy of this sketch made by 
the order of President Lopez, and a true sketch of the Eiver 
Parana, near the mouth of the Paraguay, from the chart of the 
Water Witch. The " fancy sketch" here offered is doubtless the 
work of a foreigner ; for there is, I presume, not a native capable 
of making such a one, either from a survey or dictation ; it was 
probably drawn by the ordnance officer of Itapiru, who, however 



FANCY AND TRUE SKETCH. 



309 




TrneKorfh. 



^ El Canal esclusivo del Campamento general del Passo de la Patna 
is? pertenece de costa a costa a la Republica, y cubre el Campamento, su 
^ transito estd prohebido aun a los Buques mercantes Nacionales. 



i *. 

its 








True Worth 



310 JURISDICTION OF THE PARANA. 

skillful lie may be in directing shot, shows that he knows little of 
hydrographic surveys. The President did not care to represent 
Nature's work, but to illustrate an Idea ; and from his office, far 
removed from the scene, he dictated to the pliant draughtsman a 
drawing of a winding river, in which he was directed to intro- 
duce certain banks and shoals, until the "fancy sketch" repre- 
sented a locality to suit the "Idea" he intended to present to the 
United States. But his Excellency, though an admirable diplo- 
matist, is unfortunately as ignorant as his draughtsman of the 
first principles of hydrography. He neglects to put down the 
soundings, to run the line of the "Water Witch aground on sand- 
banks instead of ending it in water of unknown depth, or to 
show how he has arrived at the peculiar obstructions of the Pa- 
rana at that part of its course. 

In continuing the exploration of that river, I do not suppose the 
idea had ever suggested itself to any human being out of Para- 
guay that the Water Witch would meet with the least opposition. 
However defiant the policy of that government to neighboring 
powers,, even in Corrientes, it was not suspected of the monstrous 
pretension of controlling exclusively the navigation of the Parana. 
Our expedition had not only the sympathy of the Argentine Con- 
federation, which claims concurrent jurisdiction over it, but I had 
a circular from General Urquiza to all persons in authority, di- 
recting them to offer me every facility in prosecuting the work; 
and from Senor Pujol, the governor of Corrientes, I had received 
only the day before my departure, expressions of deep interest in 
our labors, and the anxious hope that the exploration would de- 
velop a channel practicable for all purposes of commerce, with- 
out making the slightest reference to the decree of October 3d, or 
to the possibility of Paraguayan interference. 

As I had, then, the full permission of the Argentine States to 
explore her waters, and the Parana was established and recognized 
as the common boundary between their territory and Paraguay, 
up to and beyond the Falls of Apipe, the propriety of my course 
in ordering a party from the expedition there will not admit of 
question. 

I had on former occasions repeated conversations with President 
Lopez relative to our contemplated explorations in that quarter, 
but he never let drop the semblance of pretension to control or 
prohibit its navigation. He did on one occasion congratulate "the 
Republic" (for he is fond of using that word in speaking of Para- 



PRESIDENT LOPEZ'S ACCOUNT. 311 

guay) that the "Salto Grande" (Falls of Guayra) was an insur- 
mountable obstruction to the navigation of the river ; and, as it 
was the first time that I had ever heard the idea advanced that an 
insurmountable obstacle to the navigation of a great river was 
a national blessing designed by Heaven, it made an impression 
upon me. I knew that he alluded to the much-feared encroach- 
ments of "Los Portugases," and looked to the Salto Grande as a 
bulwark against all attacks from that quarter. 

As he does not presume to assert any entire jurisdiction over 
the river, it will naturally be asked on what grounds does he jus- 
tify his act of firing into the Water Witch ; for he admits that it 
was by his orders to the commander of Itapiru. 

He says in his dispatch to our government, and in his message 
to the Congress of Paraguay, 

" The Water Witch ascended the Parana by the channel that is common 
to the Kepublic and the Argentine Confederation ; but, having stopped al- 
most in front of Fort Itapiru, the commander observed that from that point 
the Americans seemed occupied in taking some measurements, and then pro- 
ceeded on, through the same common channel, to beyond the general en- 
campment at the Paso de la Patria, and nearly to the upper point of the 
Island ' Ceraya,' whence she returned through the same channel, passing 
below Itapiru, and, turning the point of the south bank, which here exists, 
took that which leads directly by the Fort Itapiru to the port of the gen- 
eral encampment," etc.* 

This explanation answered his purpose perfectly in Paraguay, 
for he wished to prove that the Water Witch was seeking the 
Fort Itapiru, and not the main channel of the river ; that she was 
bound on a fighting, and not an exploring expedition ; but he 
should have made out a stronger case ; should have added a few 
more operations — it matters not what — to complete the romance. 
His after-mistake was a great one, in repeating the same state- 
ments to the Government of the United States. 

It is needless to explain that the value of a survey depends 

* Extract from President Lopez's Message, 14th March, 1857. 

' S E1 1 de Eebrero de 1855, predicho Yapor Water Witch subio al Parana por el 
Canal comun de la Eepublica y de la Confederacion Argentina, pero habiendose 
detenido casi en fronte de la fortaleza de Itapiru, observa el Commandante de ese 
puerto que los Americanos paracien ocuparse en tomar algunas dimenciones, y lue- 
go seguieron por el mismo canal comun hasta mas ariba del campamento general 
del paso de la Patria, y casi hasta la punta superior de la Isla de Carya, de donde 
vulvio a bajar por el mismo canal hasta mas.abajo de Itapiru, y volviendo la punta 
de arena del banco qui alii existe, tomo el que conduce por la misma fortaleza de 
Itapiru al puerto del espresado campamento general." 



312 ATTEMPTED JUSTIFICATION. 

upon its accuracy, and the course, depth, current of the Parana 
channel could alone be determined by the Water "Witch's enter- 
ing it. She had a pilot who attempted to pass up near the Cor- 
rientes shore, in what President Lopez designates as the Canal 
Comun (" Common Channel"), and there ran aground. Is it rea- 
sonable to suppose that, had there been a channel on that side, the 
frightened pilot would have sought the other, of which he seems 
to have had a great dread? and when asked " where lay the main 
channel," would he immediately have pointed to that which led 
to the '■ General Encampment," instead of the Canal Comun ? 

Suppose there had been more than one channel — and the pilot, 
who should have known, said there was not, for he certainly 
made the effort to find another way — how would this have justi- 
fied the attack ? If the river is a common highway for the two 
countries, the whole of it is common throughout the extent of the 
territories. It is not a highway if President Lopez appropriate 
the available channel, where alone a vessel can pass up, and say, 
" You shall not come on my side of the river." 

As to the actual course and distance made by the Water Witch, 
the accompanying "real sketch" will show; and until informed 
upon what data President Lopez constructed his chart, or until 
he produces the observations made by his surveyor on shore, to 
determine the track of the Water Witch, and establish beyond 
doubt the superior accuracy of his work to ours by a fair com- 
parison, I must pronounce one a "fancy sketch," the other a re- 
liable piece of " track survey." 

The President of Paraguay was evidently alarmed in anticipa- 
tion of retaliation for this insult, and thundered forth in his little 
weekly organ, the Seminario. Its articles, intended to impose 
upon the credulity of Paraguayans, generally excite much amuse- 
ment in La Plata. Personal attacks upon myself— the burden 
of its editorials since the removal of the Americans — I did not 
notice, for I rather suspected that his Excellency wished to draw 
me into a paper war. But when, awakened to a sense of the 
enormity of his act, as one utterly in defiance of the law of na- 
tions, he attempted its justification by boldly claiming jurisdic- 
tion over the main channel of the Parana because it ran near his 
shores, and when he endeavored to make it appear that the 
Water Witch, in entering it, had violated a national right, I de- 
termined to expose this evasion or misinterpretation of every 
principle of international law, and in one of the leading papers 



THE LAW OF NATIONS. 313 

of Buenos Ayres gave a statement of the position of the steamer 
when fired upon, and quoted fully from Wheaton on the "Law 
of Nations." From my references in that article, I here insert 
one paragraph to show the extent to which rights under a com- 
mon boundary are very fully recognized. 

" It was a principle that the right to a thing gives a right to the means 
without which it could not be used ; that is to say, that the means follow 
the end. Thus a right to navigate a river draws to it a right to moor ves- 
sels to its shores, to land on them in cases of distress, or for other necessary 
purposes, etc., etc. This principle was founded in natural reason, was evi- 
denced by the common rule of mankind, and declared by the writers before 
quoted."*— P. 351. 

I have stated that I was overtaken by the Water Witch two 
hundred miles below Corrientes. The information she brought 
disturbed all my plans for the immediate exploration of the Sala- 
do, for I could not rest quietly under this insult to our national 
honor ; and as the steamer was slightly disabled, and her arma- 
ment not such as could enable me to act effectively and surely 
against a fort of six guns, I determined to proceed to Buenos 
Ayres or Montevideo, in the hope of procuring from a ship of our 
squadron two large shell guns, which would enable me to return. 

On arriving at Parana, we found at anchor quite an imposing 
Brazilian squadron, consisting of eight steamers — the Amazon, the 
admiral's flag-ship, three sloops of war, and eleven transports, 
bound for Paraguay. Such a demonstration from Brazil had been 
for some months anticipated, not only to settle the question of 
boundary, but to open a way, by the Paraguay, to Cuyaba. This 
mode of backing negotiation by a squadron is, it seems, not con- 
fined to England at this day ; and, however much it may be looked 
upon as an act to intimidate, it must be resorted to in dealing with 
governments that can not be reasoned into an observance of the 
rights of nations. 

I hastened to Buenos Ayres. A great disappointment awaited 
me : but three days before the Grermantown had sailed for Bio Ja- 
neiro. I had been buoyed up with the hope of meeting this par- 
ticular ship. Her commander, Captain Lynch, is an officer who 
would, I knew, fully sympathize with me in a sense of the outrage 
to our flag, and afford me every assistance in his power to avenge 
the wrong. 

I proceeded to Montevideo, and finding there an American clip- 

* The principal writers on national law. 



314 PROPOSED RETALIATION. 

per bound for Eio, dispatched Lieutenant Powell with a report of 
the affair to the commander of the squadron, Commodore W. D. 
Salter, and with an earnest appeal for aid. I begged that he would 
order the Germantown to Paraguay ;* and at the same time sent a 
report of the attack to the Secretary of the Navy and to the min- 
ister resident at Buenos Ayres.f 

On the 19th the Germantown arrived off Montevideo, bound for 
Buenos Ayres, but with no satisfactory reply from the Commo- 
dore, except that he would sail soon for La Plata. 

I here quote from my journal : 

u 31st March, 1854. The Savannah, flag-ship, has arrived. I im- 
mediately visited the Commodore, and informed him I was ready, 
and the Water Witch was in order for any service he might de- 
sire of me (alluding to her towing the Germantown up the Para- 
na) ; or, if he had no other work for me, would proceed to the 
Uruguay. I still hoped there was more important service, for I 
was unwilling to believe that this outrage could long be suffered 
to go unnoticed. He desired me to remain for a few days, as he 
wished to confer with our resident minister at Buenos Ayres. 

"April 5th. Have had a conversation with the Commodore 
since my visit of the 31st, and urged the propriety of sending the 
Germantown up, towed by the Water Witch, to knock down 
Itapiru." 

Captain Lynch, in a noble, generous spirit, which I fully appre- 
ciate, had proposed to the Commodore to take the Germantown 
up, or relinquish the command of the ship to me for that pur- 
pose. 

" April 6th. Again called on the Commodore; found him in 
close conversation with Mr. Peden — as I supposed, about the Para- 
guay affair. I left immediately." 

" April 8th. Called again on the Commodore to know his de^ 
termination about my towing up the Germantown. He said, ' I 

* Extract from report to Commodore Salter : 

" The Water Witch, with the Germantown or a brig in tow, will be amply suffi- 
cient to inflict such punishment on Paraguay as the insult demands — not only knock 
down the fort, but capture the squadron also. Should additional steam power be 
required in towing, it can easily be obtained here. The more promptly this is done, 
the more easily and effectually it may be done. 

"I can not express to you how deeply I regret not finding either yourself or Cap- 
tain Lynch here. I shall proceed to take in coals, and have some slight repairs to 
the engine, hoping for your arrival meantime." 

f Mr. Pendleton had been recalled, and this place was filled by Mr. Peden, of 
Florida. 



ASSISTANCE REFUSED. 315 

can not move in this matter. The affair is referred to the gov- 
ernment, and I shall await instructions.' I then said, l Will 
von, Sir, supply the Water Witch with two large guns, either 
from the Savannah or the Grermantown ? I desire to return and 
carry on the work, but I do not feel justified in doing so with 
the steamer in her present defenseless state. He said, ' Ho, there 
are other fields for the expedition, and you had better not re- 
turn to that part of the river until instructions are received from 
home.' 

" The Commodore and minister have been in conference. It 
was a labor that brought forth nothing." 

This was to me a bitter disappointment and mortification. I 
clearly saw that the Commodore had assumed a responsibility m 
not acting of far greater magnitude than if he had pursued the 
most vigorous and decisive measures. It was evident to me that 
the responsibility lay in doing nothing. 

If a national vessel is fired into, unless the mistake is manifest, 
for the honor of the flag and the credit of her commander, the 
fire must be returned. The beautiful Christian precept of turning 
the left cheek when the right is smitten, is not observed, and per- 
haps not understood in national intercourse-. If a man receives 
a blow, he rarely folds his arms and waits for explanation : he re- 
turns the blow ; and if in the wrong, he will discover it in propel 
time, and make amends. 

The fort of Itapiru ought to have been- knocked down, and 
we should now be even with the Paraguay government. I beg- 
ged but for two guns, and I would have pledged my life in the 
effort. 

There were neither women, children, nor property of peaceful 
citizens or foreigners to be injured, or involve us in endless ne- 
gotiation for reclamation. 

It was a difficulty for the Commodore, and for him alone, to 
settle. A consultation with the minister was all well enough ; 
he is generally presumed to be a person of standing at home, and 
competent abroad to advise in such an emergency ; but confer- 
ences can never shift responsibility. The obligations and duties 
of a United States legation and a United States squadron are not 
blended, neither can they possibly conflict. Each is alone an- 
swerable to the government for a proper performance of its re- 
spective duties. 

To refer the matter home was an effectual way of getting rid 



316 SHIFTING THE KESPONSIBILITY. 

of, or of indefinitely postponing it. There are extraordinary occa- 
sions, and I consider this one, where the authority of a commander 
on a foreign station exceeds even that of the Executive Department. 

He has the right, the power, and it is his duty to resent and 
avenge all and every outrage committed upon American vessels 
within the limits of his station. How much more must he feel 
the necessity of exercising this power when a vessel of his own 
squadron has been insulted. He is not merely to report occur- 
rences, and await answers, but is presumed to possess some natural 
ability — some knowledge of the law of nations, and some sense of 
honor, blended with a discretion which will enable him to assume 
the responsibility of evident duty. 

Paraguay was not considered a territory occupied by wild In- 
dians, or as a den of pirates. We had negotiated a treaty of 
friendship and commerce with her, and that treaty had been rati- 
fied by our Senate.* To order the Commodore to proceed there 
and chastise her would have been making war upon a republic 
recognized as belonging to the family of nations, and this is a 
power which the Executive does not possess. When the egre- 
gious mistake is made of supposing one's duty fully discharged 
by merely reporting outrages to the Department, we embarrass its 
movements. An officer can prevent this by avenging at the mo- 
ment all insults, without placing the Executive in the humiliating 
position of bearing them passively until an appeal can be made to 
Congress for powers to act. 

I have no desire to criticise or censure the course of the Com- 
modore, but it is due to myself and to the navy to make a full 
statement of this affair. 

Had the Water Witch been in error, which can not be sustained 
by the most specious arguments, how could it justify this insult 
to our flag? It is clear she meditated no attack, assumed no 
threatening attitude, and did not fire a gun until the evidence of 
a shot from the fort showed itself in cutting down one of her crew 
and carrying away her wheel. Was the officer in charge to sub- 
mit to this ? It is no justification of the act to say that blank 
cartridges were fired and a message from the fort delivered along- 
side, for we do not recognize the right of Paraguay to control the 
explorations of that river. The prohibition of her President was 
an unwarrantable assumption of power, and its enforcement by a 
shot, in every way that we can view it, a gross outrage. 

* The Paraguay government subsequently refused the exchange of ratification. 



OUR TRUE COURSE. 317 

I had taken some trouble to inform myself, from every available 
source, of the rights, exclusive and concurrent, over the naviga- 
tion of the rivers of La Plata, because I studiously designed to 
keep the expedition aloof from any semblance of interference in 
the differences of neighboring powers ; and it entered those wa- 
ters only where the jurisdiction of the government granting per- 
mission was unquestioned. 

I believe I understand President Lopez well enough to say that, 
had he received at the proper time a spirited rebuke, had Itapiru 
been knocked down or his squadron captured, we should now be 
on the best possible terms. He would not, a year later, have 
met our special commissioner on the threshold of his mission by 
demanding to be informed what resolution this government had 
made to give satisfaction for the outrages and hostilities commit- 
ted by the commander of the Water Witch, " in order to see if 
the case was such as to justify the exchange of ratification of the 
treaty of the 4th of March, 1853, and to this intent you will be 
pleased to reply to this note."* 

In an official dispatch to our Secretary of State, dated Asun- 
cion, November 29th, 1856, Senor Yasquez says: 

"His Excellency, President Lopez, will be found well disposed to renew 
the negotiation of a treaty of friendship, commerce, and navigation, so soon 
as his Excellency the President of the United States may desire to send to 
this city a Plenipotentiary with suitable instructions, which will afford an 
appropriate occasion to settle the questions I have cited to the Senor Com- 
missioner in my note of the 8th of this month." f 

Again, in the correspondence of the Minister of Foreign Eela- 
tions, Senor Nicholas Yasquez, with our special commissioner, 
Mr, Eichard Fitzpatrick, under date Asuncion, November 26th, 
1856: 

(i His Excellency the President of the Republic ratified fully and com- 
pletely on the 12th of March, 1853, with the consent of his Council of 

* Extract of note from Secretary Vasquez to Commissioner Fitzpatrick, Novem- 
ber 8th, 1856: 

"Para ver si es llegado el caso de verificar lisa y llanamente el cange de las 
ratificaciones del Tradado de 4 Marzo de 1853, y al efecto se servira U. S. respon- 
der a esta nota." 

t ' ' Que S. E. se halla en la major disposicion de renorar la negociacion da un 
Tratado de amistad, commercio, y navigacion, desde que el Exmo. Senor Presi- 
dente de los Estados Unidos qniera enviar efecto a esta Ciudad nn Plenipotencia- 
rio, con instrucciones convenientes ; y que contal oportunidad se podra definir las 
questiones pendientes que he citado a S. S. en la citada nota des 8 de este mes." 



318 PARAGUAYAN DISPATCHES. 

State, the treaty referred to of the 4th of March, as I explained to you at 
our official interview, and in this aspect it is not possible for his Excellency 
the President of the Republic to submit to a new ratification on the terms 
you propose ; and in this view of the question I inform you of the receipt 
of your note of the 18th, reaffirming mine of the 15th, and closing the cor- 
respondence."* 

I remained but a few days at Buenos Ayres, to obtain a verifi- 
cation of the chronometer before entering the Uruguay, but kept 
the Commodore advised by letter of the state of the Parana. I 
was enabled to show him that the river had continued to rise 
since I descended it in February, and at that time there was not 
less than sixteen feet of water over the worst passes. I was re- 
solved that he should entertain no doubts as to the practicability 
of having the Grermantown towed up from a want of water ; and 
in my last note to him from Buenos Ayres, dated April 20th, 
1855, 1 say : "I yesterday learned from an acquaintance from La 

Paz that the Parana is very high, there being four fathoms 

of water at this time on the worst shoals." 

Previously, at his own request, I had given him a statement, 
not simply as to the condition of the river at the present season, 
but details as to its periodical changes. 



CHAPTEK XVIII. 



Island of Martin Garcia. — Pass of San Juan. — Town of Higueritas. — The Brasso 
Bravo. — Bio Negro. — The Gualaguaychu. — Concepcion. — Frey Bentos. — Fine 
Pasturage. — Herds of Cattle. — Arrival at Concepcion. — College. — Saladeros. — 
Town of Paisandu. — An Englishman's Estancia. — Current of the Kiver. — Palm 
Forests of Entre Bios. — The Arroyo Grande. — Paso Heredera. — Town of Con- 
cordia. — Trade. — Salto. — The Salto Grande. — Killing a Partridge. — Bise of Wa- 
ter. — Tide. — Track Survey of the Bio Negro. — Town of Soriana.— Mercedes. — 
Sarsaparilla. — Fossil Bemains. — Megatherium and Glyptodon. — Health of this 
Begion of Country. — Cattle and Estancias. 

On the 24th of April, 1855, we left the inner roads of Buenos 
Ayres, and, passing through the shipping in the outer roads, stood 

* "El Exmo. Scfior Presidente de la Bepublica ha notificado lisa y llanamente 
el 12 de Marzo dc 1853, con dictamen de su consejo de Estado, el Tratado referido 
de 4 del propio Marzo, como he manifestado a U. S. en nuestra conferencia oficial, 
y en esta positura no es dable que S. E. el Sr. Presidente de la Bepublica se someta 
a nueva ratificacion en los terminos que U. S. el presente aviso de racibo de su 
nota referida del 18, reproducicndo mi anterior del 15, y dando por cerrada esta 
correspondencia." 



EXPEDITION TO THE URUGUAY. 319 

for the entrance to the Martin Garcia Channel. I quote from my 
journal of this date : 

" Steered a N.E. course per compass from the man-of-war an- 
chorage, carrying not less than fifteen feet water, until the high 
lands of San Juan (on the Banda Oriental side) were made on the 
same bearing, and with Martin Grarcia N.W. by "W". ; a single 
ombu south of San Juan, EJST.E., and two ombus near Colonia, 
E.S.E. We passed the bar of San Juan with not less than four- 
teen feet of water, although I am confident we were not in the 
channel, as the pilot also thought." 

In returning, after having completed the survey of the Uruguay, 
I find the following entry in my journal : 

" Left the island Martin Garcia, having obtained all the required 
observations, and when the high lands of San Juan bore 1ST. 42° 
E., and Martin Grarcia 1ST. 60° "W*., stood across the bank, steering 
S.S.W., to the outer roads of Buenos Ayres ; least water at low 
tide ten feet. Martin Grarcia was plainly in sight, distant about 
twelve miles, where the course was shaped for the outer roads." 

The bank here alluded to is that immense shoal between the 
Palma Pass and the Guazu, formed by the gradual accretion of allu- 
vial matter brought down by the branches into which the Parana 
is divided by the numerous islands forming its delta. It extends 
from the base of the delta south and east, gradually diminishing 
and the depth of water increasing, until it is lost in the main 
channel of La Plata. The new channel discovered in our work 
gives a greater depth, by two feet, into the Parana and Uruguay, 
showing that sixteen feet water may be carried into either of 
those rivers, over the bar of San Juan, at the ordinary low state 
of the tide. By tidal observations, made at Martin Garcia during 
the month of August, 1855, the ordinary rise was two to three 
feet ; that produced by the wind at southeast, when not blowing 
fresh, varied from three to four feet. 

11 Anchored at Higueritas, about four hundred yards from the 
shore, in fifteen feet of water. This little town in the Banda Ori- 
ental is the first met with on entering the Uruguay. It stands 
half a mile inland, upon a ridge that slopes to the plain bordering 
the river. The shore line is crescent-shaped, the horns protecting 
the anchorage from those southeast winds which often delay for 
months the discharge and loading of vessels at Buenos Ayres. 
Cabot entered the mouth of the Uruguay, and may have been de- 
terred from forming any settlement upon its banks by the fero- 



320 HIGUERITAS. 

cious cliaracter of the Indians, who massacred a boat party that 
had, under the command of Alvarez Eamon, ascended some dis- 
tance ; but in recognizing the superior advantages of Higueritas as 
a port, we wonder that it should have escaped the keen eye of De 
Graray when seeking the site of a commercial town near the At- 
lantic. The anchorage is open from S.W. to N.W., the width of 
the river, and its waters could be agitated by no sea that would 
delay the dispatch of vessels. Within the bar of San Juan the 
depth varies from three to ten fathoms, and off this place, at a dis- 
tance of from three hundred yards to three quarters of. a mile, from 
two to six fathoms, with a gradual inclination of the bottom to the 
shore. In the neighborhood are fine granite quarries, from which 
exhaustless supplies of building material could be obtained. The 
Braso Bravo, one of the branches of the Parana, which is equally 
navigable with the Gruazu, empties into the Uruguay directly op- 
posite Higueritas, and the Braso Largo, another arm, a little 
above. This river is the dividing line between the Banda Ori- 
ental and Entre Eios, and the aspect of the country upon the right 
and the left presents for some distance in ascending a striking 
contrast. The shores on the left rise precipitously from the wa- 
ter, and the interior country, so far as the eye can reach, is a series 
of grassy undulations clear of wood. The right banks are low 
and wooded. As we advance, the bright green turf lands of En- 
tre Bios gradually rise from the very margin of the river some 
sixty feet, the general elevation of the country. On the left the 
banks of the Uruguay and its small tributary streams from the 
Banda Oriental are skirted with quebracho, urunday, etc., while 
clumps of espinilla give a park-like appearance to the interior 
country." 

The width of the river varies from four to seven miles ; its 
waters are turbid, and the channel not so well defined as that of 
the Parana ; but there is ample depth for the "Water Witch. The 
first affluent of any importance is the Bio Negro, which rises in 
the interior of the Banda Oriental, and empties by several arms 
into the Uruguay, the vast expanse of which is here interrupted 
by low wooded islands : Islas Boca, Falsa,. Bondo, Lobos, Jaguar, 
Jaguar Chico, and Biscaino. 

Twelve miles above Bio Negro, the Gualaguaychu empties into 
the Uruguay from the right ; opposite, and six miles distant — the 
width of the river at this point — is Frey Bentos, an anchorage for 
all large vessels engaged in the trade of Concepcion del Uruguay 



GUALAGUAYCHU. 321 

and the town of Gualaguaychu, which latter is situated on the 
right bank of a stream of the same name, and nine miles above 
its mouth. Yessels of considerable size can go rip to Concepcion, 
but they drop down here to complete cargo. 

Nine feet can be carried within a mile of the mouth of the 
Gualaguaychu, but at this point is encountered a bar over which 
there is but six feet at low water, and from eight and a half to 
nine at high. This depth may be carried up to the town, which, 
as the centre of a rich grazing state, must become — indeed is — a 
place of commercial activity, notwithstanding the inconvenience 
of transhipment, fifteen miles from the port. Its exports — hides, 
tallow, jerked beef, and bone manure, are brought down to Frey 
Bentos in large sail-boats and small-decked craft. In 1849 it 
contained but 7000 inhabitants, but under the benign influence 
of constitutional government its population and trade have in- 
creased a hundred per cent. Two years have elapsed since my 
first visit, and I not only find its extent doubled, by new squares 
and streets, but the public and private buildings are handsome and 
substantial structures. Among them are a government house, 
theatre, and a private dwelling for General Urquiza. American 
pine lumber, now extensively used in the growing towns on the 
Parana, is also in demand here. 

Settlers are availing themselves of the liberal policy which 
governs the distribution or sale of public lands. The payment 
of a few shillings for recording the title will secure a fine chacra 
(farm), or even lots within the limits of a town, with the sole ob- 
ligation that the receiver shall occupy it himself, or by proxy, if 
a town lot ; or if a farm, inclose it within six months. 

The territory of this department extends from the Gualaguay 
Eiver — coasting the Parana, to its entrance into the Uruguay, 
thence along the river to the Gualaguaychu, embracing ten judi- 
cial districts. Independent of its foreign commerce, which is 
steadily increasing, it has considerable trade with Buenos Ayres 
and Montevideo. This is carried on in vessels of light draught. 
The discriminating duties, recently imposed by the Argentine 
government upon interior trade, will necessarily induce foreign 
ships to its ports. This will prove a great gain to both buyer and 
seller. The estimated amount of exports from Gualaguaychu 
for the year 1851 was $447,273 ; and that of imports $179,929. 

Ascending from Frey Bentos, the course of the river changes 
from north to east, washing on two sides the Eincon de Gallinas. 

21 



322 CONCEPCION. 

— a corner of Banda Oriental, embracing many square leagues, 
and almost insulated by the Kio Negro and the Uruguay. It is 
entirely unoccupied, except by the huts of a few woodmen, who 
pay a small sum for the privilege of cutting its espinilla for the 
Buenos Ayres market, and yet it presents one of the most desir- 
able points on this river for the establishment of estancias. A 
fence across the narrow neck, connecting it with the main land, 
would effectually prevent one of the embarrassments complained 
of by the estancieros — the straying of young cattle before they 
have received their " mark." Its verdant ridges afford extended 
views of land and water, and would be beautiful sites for dwellings. 

Between Frey Bentos and Concepcion — a distance by the course 
of the river of 50 miles — the lands of Entre Eios, where seen from 
the channel, were undulating, ranging some 50 or 60 feet above 
the river. The pasturage was fine, and herds of cattle, droves of 
horses, and flocks of sheep covered its green slopes. The view 
of the main land was sometimes intercepted entirely by high 
islands, many of them covered by a dense but indifferent vegeta- 
tion ; others had a large number of peach-trees ; willows abound- 
ed, and, in the absence of better wood, are burned for charcoal. 

"We left the main channel, which continues near the shores of 
the Banda Oriental, to test the practicability of one between the 
islands Bopigua and Laguna. Though contracted, it is perfectly 
safe and unobstructed. We entered a riacho, and passing the 
mouth of the Arroyo da China, upon which stream is established 
a vast saladero, we anchored off Concepcion. 

Our reception now — as on a former occasion, when I visited 
this town with Messrs. Pendleton and Schenck — was extremely 
flattering, and showed that the services of the Water Witch were 
remembered gratefully. Beef and vegetables were sent by the 
authorities for the use of the crew, and every possible courtesy 
was extended to the officers. Among other civilities we received 
and accepted an invitation to a ball given in celebration of the 
anniversary of Urquiza's proclamation against Rosas in 1851. 

Concepcion has 5000 inhabitants, and is prettily situated on 
high land, about half a mile from the river. I have before allud- 
ed to its primary school and college, established by Urquiza. 
Both these institutions were at this time in the most flourishing 
condition. General Urquiza is a native of Entre Bios, resides 
much at San Jose,* and takes great interest in the growth and 

* The estancia visited by me in 1 853. 



THE BAND A ORIENTAL. 323 

prosperity of this place. It is the principal town in the Uruguay 
Department, which comprehends five judicial districts, and em- 
braces all the territory from the Grualaguaychu, coasting the Uru- 
guay River, to the Arroyo Grande. 

The saladero at the mouth of the Arroyo da China is con- 
ducted on a vast scale. At the shipping season, -when the estab- 
lishment is in full operation, they slaughter, salt up, stow away 
the beef, hides, and try out the tallow of five hundred head of 
cattle per day. The arroyo is deep, and there were at the time 
of our visit three vessels — a bark, and two brigs of two and three 
hundred tons burden — lying close to the shore. Two of them 
were taking in cargoes of hides and tallow, while the third was 
loading with horns, bones, and bone-ashes for England. The 
economy of the establishment was perfect. Parts formerly thrown 
away — entrails and carcasses— are now subjected to a steam press- 
ure, by which every particle of fatty matter is extracted ; the 
residue is dried as fuel for the furnaces ; the ashes of this fuel are 
shipped for England, and there greatly valued for fertilizing pur- 
poses. They told me at this saladero, that notwithstanding the 
fine appearance of the Entre Rios cattle, those of the Banda Ori- 
ental, bordering the Uruguay, were superior, and with this remark- 
able difference that hides from animals of the same size weighed 
several pounds more. 

" Nineteen miles above Concepcion is Paisandu, a town of 2388 
souls, and the only one on the Banda Oriental shores since leav- 
ing Higueritas, distant 130 miles. It is a forlorn, dilapidated 
place. The houses are deserted, the gardens overgrown with 
weeds — the marks of civil war, from which that state had just 
been delivered. The grass of the surrounding country is good, 
but the number of cattle is greatly diminished. Not a tree or 
sign of cultivation meets the eye. Statistics of this department 
rate the cattle at 350,000 ; horses, 3060 ; sheep, 56,000 ; hogs, 
1558 ; jackasses, 2000 ; and a few goats. There are 134 pastoral 
establishments (establicimentos de pastora), two of which formerly 
furnished as many cattle as can now be found in the whole de- 
partment. The population of this district, exclusive of that of 
the town, is 3859. A few miles above Paisandu is the Saladero 
Madelaso, where a large number of mares are slaughtered annu- 
ally. 

" In the Banda Oriental a series of grassy ridges run parallel 
with the river, and upon them are several quintas ; near one is a 



324 MR. CAMPBELL'S ESTANCIA. 

field of wheat. The interior country is open, with clumps of 
mimosas. Friable limestone abounds. On the opposite side, in 
Entre Bios, the river is skirted by a dense growth of wood ; and 
near the mouth of the Arroyo San Francisco, which there empties 
into the Uruguay, is a lime-kiln, the stone for which is found in 
the immediate neighborhood. 

" Anchored 25 miles above Paisandu, off the estancia of an 
Englishman. Quantities of espinilla are cut and corded for the 
Buenos Ayres market. The site of Mr. Campbell's dwelling is 
well chosen, and, before learning the name of the owner, I knew, 
from the appearance of a fine vegetable garden, that it must be 
the property of a foreigner. There was, however, even here, no 
other cultivation ; for cattle-breeding is so easy, rapid, and certain 
a road to fortune, that foreigners, like the natives of the country, 
overlook the productive capabilities of the soil. This estancia 
contains five square leagues, and has the desiderata of a cattle- 
farm, fine pasturage, and abundance of water, being intersected 
by several arroyos. A few years since it was purchased for 
$17,000 ; it had then 16,000 head of cattle, and now, with 18,000, 
it is valued at $60,000. This shows a considerable increase in 
the price of cattle, for the land, when stocked, is rated at nothing. 

" The current is here two knots, and increasing as we go up- 
ward ; the least depth of water so far is 13 feet ; shoals, where 
they exist, are sand, or sand and gravel. 

" Above Estancia Campbell a belt of wood follows the course 
of the river on both shores, and inland are seen clumps of mimosse. 
The grass of the Banda Oriental is of a deeper hue than that of 
the opposite state, which, from the character of its soil — light and 
sandy — is more affected by drought. 

" Three miles above this estancia is the Arroyo Palma; on the 
right, palmse ; on the left, espinilla. 

" Vuelta San Jose, Campo San Jose — upon it a fine stone cor- 
ral, made by the Brazilians during their invasion of the Banda. 
The palm forests of Entre Bios are dense, and the ground beneath 
is carpeted with a turf of bright green. Herds and flocks on that 
side are always in sight. These quiet pastoral landscapes are very 
beautiful, and we all have stocked estancias and built a hund- 
red air castles upon the verdant ridges. I never knew a sailor 
whose snug harbor, after the toils and dangers of a sea-life were 
over, was not a farm, and here it may be had without the de- 
sideratum in older countries — money. 



CONCOKDIA.— SALTO. 325 

"Arroyo Grande, the dividing line between the departments 
Uruguay and Concordia, empties from the right bank opposite 
the island Guaviu. This stream is skirted by fine timber, que- 
bracho, etc. A quarter of a mile above, another stream, the Ar- 
royo Chapiqui Chico, flows into the Uruguay from the same side. 
At this point the palm plains of Entre Rios terminate seventy -five 
miles above Paisandu. Rocks on both sides contract the channel, 
making a narrow and intricate pass, known as the Paso Heredero. 
On the left a saladero, and above,' another estancia owned by Mr. 
Campbell ; it is stocked with a small herd of cattle and 30,000 
sheep. 

" Twenty -five miles above Heredero Reef anchored off Concor- 
dia in 22 feet of water. This town, of 2500 inhabitants, dates its 
existence from 1831, and is the capital of a department of the 
same name, which extends from the Arroyo Grande to Mocorita, 
and comprehends ten judicial districts. It boasts a flourishing 
free-school, established in 1847 by Urquiza. In consequence of 
the obstruction to navigation offered by the Salto Grande, twenty 
miles above this, Concordia is the last town in Entre Rios from 
which an uninterrupted river communication may be maintained 
with the cities of the Parana and La Plata. As the shipping port 
for the missiones and a vast interior country, it has considerable 
trade. The principal exports are hides, tallow, and yerba. In 
1850 there was received here, in transitu for other places, among 
a variety of articles, the following: 10,624 tercias* of yerba, 1694 
arobas of wool, 1070 cheeses of 6 lbs. each, 2643 fanegasf of 
salt, 132 pipes and 54 barrels of tallow and beef grease, 1962 aro- 
bas of horse-hair, 1300 arobas and 164 barrels of rice, 17,272 dry 
hides of cattle, 2289 ditto salted, 2109 hides of mares, 1506 quin- 
tals of jerked beef. 

" Three miles above, on the opposite shore, which rises sixty 
feet above the level of the river, stands Salto, the principal town 
of a department of the same name. It is rather a bustling place 
of 2800 inhabitants, and the last port on the Oriental side before 
reaching the fall. Between Concordia and Salto, a little above 
the anchorage of the first place, is a rocky ledge, Coralitas, which 
endangers the navigation somewhat; but between its projecting 
rocks there is sufficient width and depth, even at low water, for 
any steamer or vessel that may ascend the river — that is, from 

* Tercias, the hide sacks in which yerba is packed, containing 8 arobas of 25 
lbs. each. f Afanega, 2\ bushels. 



326 SALTO GRANDE. 

six to seven feet could be carried with safety to Salto. The least 
depth we have named continues but a short time, and even up to 
this point is increased by south winds. 

" The exports of Salto would be limited to a few hides and a 
small quantity of tallow but for the products of the interior coun- 
try, which are transported from Uruguayana and other Brazilian 
towns in carretas (ox wagons). Thirty thousand arobas of yerba 
are shipped annually, but it is inferior to the Paraguay leaf. 
This department has suffered much from the wars that have af- 
flicted this unfortunate country, and has now, including the city, 
but a population of 7364 souls. Statistics give the following as 
its stock in 1852 : 262,000 head of cattle, 17,000 horses, 25,000 
mares, 500 mules, 4000 hogs, 113,000 sheep. There are now 404 
pastoral establishments. 

" Though the navigation of the Upper Uruguay is a question 
of vital importance to the inhabitants upon its borders, I can ob- 
tain no information as to the condition of the water upon the great 
falls, and can only guess, from a variety of contradictory state- 
ments, that vessels of light draught may pass over them during 
the months of October and November. The passage, even during 
those months, must be difficult, if not dangerous, on account of 
the rapidity of the current. An attempt was made in a small 
steamer a year or two since, and in the failure, from lack of pow- 
er in the boat, she was near being lost. 

"Judging from all that I see and hear, the river is too low to 
pass over the Salto Chico (Little Fall), at this time with the Wa- 
ter "Witch." 

I engaged a boat, and proceeded to examine the Salto Grande. 
To avoid the current as much as possible, we kept near the Entre 
Bios shore, intending to return by the channel. After a pull of 
five hours we reached the Salto, a picturesque spot, but misnamed 
a fall. There is no one great perpendicular descent, but for about 
one third of a mile the river from shore to shore presents a foam- 
ing surface, broken by verdant islets and innumerable rocks of a 
reddish sandstone, over and through which the waters dash with 
inconceivable force. The rocks are of every shape and size. 
Some rise smooth and rounded for several feet above the water ; 
others project sharply, presenting the most fantastic shapes. The 
rush and roar of this mighty river, boiling and foaming through 
its green pastoral banks, was a magnificent spectacle. The banks 
on both sides rise some thirty or forty feet above it, and are skirt- 



DESCENT OF THE EIVEK. 327 

ed with indifferent wood, but the want of a nobler vegetation is 
supplied by the luxuriance of a number of climbing plants. The 
humid atmosphere was redolent with their delicious odor, and the 
eye was charmed by the beauty of the white trumpet-shaped flow- 
ers of an epiphyte that encircled the trunks and covered the limbs 
of every dead tree, as if all association of decay must be banished 
from the imposing features of nature here presented. We found 
a river craft, snugly moored out of the influence of currents, at 
the mouth of a small arroyo, where it was quietly awaiting a rise 
of the waters. The skipper seemed to be philosophically indiffer- 
ent as to whether this would occur in a week or year ; he thought 
release was possible in one month by the transient rise in June. 
From that time the Uruguay fluctuates until October, and in No- 
vember has attained its maximum, after which it falls rapidly. 
There must yet be a rise of twenty feet to allow the ascent of 
vessels of the draught of the "Water Witch. 

I went on shore with my gun ; saw deer, capinchas, and many 
partridges. Nothing could exceed the amazement of the pilot 
when I brought down one of these last. He looked at the flut- 
tering bird, then at me, exclaiming, " I have never seen any thing 
to equal that."* 

In descending through the channel, the least depth of water was 
ten feet on the Salto Chico ; width of river from a half to three 
quarters of a mile. Physical features of the country on both 
sides unchanged — rolling grass lands. We made, in descending, 
the same distance in two hours through which it had taken five 
to ascend. I found that the river had fallen fifteen inches in 
twenty-six hours. It is a little above its ordinary level, which 
accounts for this rapid decrease. 

"Descending, anchored off Concepcion, that we might obtain 
observations of comparison for the chronometers in connection 
with those made during our ascent. 

" Stopped off Mr. Campbell's estancia to purchase espinilla for 
ship's use. This wood, sawed and split into pieces of twelve 
inches by four, cost half a cent each stick, of which there were 
about 1600 in a cord, making $8 per cord. Purchased a beeve, 
for which we paid $10, without the hide. Mr. Campbell says 
that the interior streams are bordered by valuable woods, such 
as quebracho, curupay, nandubay, etc. 

* The partridge is caught in this country with the lasso, or a small running 



328 IN THE MUD - 

"I regret that we have no time to examine the neighboring 
plains, which are particularly interesting from the number and 
character of fossils that have been recently disimbedded from 
them. One — an osseous-armored animal, found six feet below 
the surface in the banks of a neighboring arroyo — must, I think, 
from Mr. Campbell's description, be a gigantic prototype of the 
armadillo. I hope, before leaving La Plata, to be able to give 
some attention to this subject; but the more important objects 
of the expedition must first be carried out. 

"Anchored off Frey Bentos ; or rather, unintentionally, laid 
the Water Witch on a mud-bank, by leaving the channel to make 
a detailed survey in crossing from the Banda Oriental side to the 
mouth of the G-ualaguaycku. As bad luck would have it, we have 
one of those northeast winds, which at times leave little water in 
the river, and our craft is as snug in two feet of mud as if in 
dock ; while we go on with the designed work in boats, calcu- 
lating from the law of probabilities that by the time it is finish- 
ed, if not before, the wind will haul south. The result of this 
survey was a good channel of ten feet, to within two miles of the 
mouth of the Grualaguaychu. 

" While in the mud we have had a striking instance of the effects 
of southerly winds upon the tide, or flow of water in this river. 
The wind for four days has been blowing northeast. Hauling 
suddenly to southwest, in one hour the water rose three feet. 
This change is caused more by the removal of a pressure driving 
the waters out than from a power forcing them in ; for it is a 
southeaster that produces the greatest and most sudden rise. 
Above Qoncepcion the river rises twenty -four feet, a height main- 
tained but a short time because of the greatly -increased width 
below and its approach to La Plata. As an illustration of the in- 
fluence of the tide, I may state that I find on the Paso de Tala, 
a distance of one hundred and ten miles below Salto, one foot 
greater depth of water than when we ascended, notwithstanding 
the fall at the latter point of four feet during the three days that 
I remained. 

" Anchored off the Bio Negro ; having sent Mr. Henry to run 
out a supposed channel along the Banda Oriental shore from 
Frey Bentos to this point. He found it direct and often feet, 
making three in this reach of the river ; the one best adapted to 
large vessels being near the Entre Rios shore. 

"Accompanied by Mr. Murdaugh, I left the steamer to make a 



FOSSILS. 329 

track survey of the Kio Negro to Mercedes. Five miles from, its 
mouth passed Soriana, a small town on the left bank. Encamp- 
ed for the night at Port Cerito. While the men were pitching 
their tents we started over the plains with our guns ; saw many 
partridges; supped on 'hard tack,' made soft by soaking; found 
shawl and poncho no effectual protection against damp grass and 
the chilliness of the night. At early dawn again on the move, 
and reached Mercedes at meridian." 

This town of 7000 inhabitants stands on high land about half 
a mile from the river, and presented the most attractive appear- 
ance as we approached. Above it the Eio Negro is not naviga- 
ble ; but up to this place we found a channel of seven feet, which 
is increased to ten by a south wind ; width of river from three 
quarters to one mile. 

The vast growth of sarsaparilla upon the borders of this river 
discolors its waters, and imparts to them at the same time such 
medicinal properties that invalids resort to Mercedes for the 
benefit of their curative power. Here, as elsewhere in all this 
country, the principal exports are hides and jerked beef; lime 
and fire-wood, in small quantities, are sent to Buenos Ayres. 

" We spent the afternoon in riding over the neighboring plains. 
Soil a tenacious black loam; grass vigorous. We saw neither 
cattle nor cultivation ; and every where in this unfortunate coun- 
try we hear the same story : ■ Civil wars have desolated and de- 
populated it. 7 

" The number of gigantic quadrupeds imbedded in these plains 
is extraordinary. Mr. Stoddard, an English gentleman residing 
at Mercedes, has made a valuable collection, which includes what 
he supposes to be a glyptodon, and many very perfect parts of a 
megathereum. The developments that have been more recently 
made fully sustain Darriin in saying, that ' the number of the re- 
mains imbedded in the grand estuary deposit which forms the 
pampas and covers the granite rocks of the Banda Oriental must 
be extraordinarily great.' * 

"Another individual of this place tells me of a fine collection 
of petrifactions found in the neighborhood — a horse's hoof, cow 
dung, birds' eggs ; and on the Gualaguaychu trunks, branches of 
silicified trees are found, exhibiting every stage of petrescence." 

Having accomplished the object of our visit to Mercedes, we 
proceeded to Higueritas, where a more detailed survey was made 

* Darnin, vol. i., p. 199. 



f{ 



330 STATE OF ENTRE BIOS. 

of the anchorage. From thence I once more returned to Buenos 
Ayres, and prepared for an exploration of the Salado. 

It will be seen that to Salto, fifteen miles below the Great Fall, 
and two hundred and ninety from Martin Garcia, we ascended 
the Uruguay in the "Water "Witch at the season of low water. It 
therefore may be inferred that the ascent of this river is easy and 
practicable at all times to vessels of nine feet draught. In the 
upper part there is a slight current ; but that is often neutralized 
by the flood tide, which is perceptible with every south wind. 
Its channel, though not so well defined as that of the Parana, is 
not changed by every inundation, and is wide enough to admit 
of vessels beating up and down. By a short canal, of about three 
locks, the navigation of this noble river could be opened several 
hundred miles beyond the Salto Grande, where it flows through 
a fertile and comparatively populous country. Numerous islands 
and islets of every size and form rise many feet above the high- 
est water level, but add little to its beauty. Many of them ex- 
tend for miles, and intercept entirely a view of the main land ; 
but they are without the splendid vegetation, the brilliant flora, 
that render so enchantingly beautiful those of the Parana Archi- 
pelago. With the exception of the willow and peach, their growth 
is generally shrubby, and, so far as I could judge, valueless. 

For half a century the Banda Oriental, with few intervals of 
peace, has been afflicted by calamitous wars, civil and foreign. 
The decrease of cattle — its only source of wealth — is enormous ; 
and the condition of its territory upon the Uruguay, as compared 
with that of Entre Rios opposite, offered the most impressive 
illustration of the influence of peace and just government upon 
the progress of these countries. Entre Rios, in the revolutionary 
struggle, was devastated by Artigas; and as a neighboring state 
it has suffered from the occupation of the Banda Oriental by 
Brazil. At the period of our visit but two years had elapsed 
since the opening of the rivers to foreign commerce, and the 
establishment of the Argentine Confederation under a constitu- 
tional government ; but in this short time the towns of this state, 
upon the Uruguay, like those of the Parana, had doubled their 
population ; free-schools, and a college were flourishing ; estancias 
were numerous and well stocked; ships were loading for Euro- 
pean ports; and with the continuance of peace Entre Rios is 
destined to be one of the most prosperous states in La Plata. 
Throughout its length and breadth it has not an infertile or insa- 



THE GAUCHOS. 331 

lubrious district ; it is intersected by numerous perennial streams, 
tributaries to the Parana and Uruguay — the central lines of com- 
munication with the Atlantic. Nature unaided produces fine 
pastures ; and the luxuriant herbage is but the covering of a vast 
gold mine — a varied and productive soil. Formerly the wealth 
of the estanciero consisted entirely in herds of horned cattle ; but 
this property is easily appropriated in time of war ; and many of 
them, having suffered severe losses, have of late years given much 
attention to the rearing of sheep, which is attended with such 
success that wool is, or will become soon, a staple. To the gau- 
cho soldier carnero (mutton) is not came (beef); neither is the 
skin of the former so available as the hide of the latter to the 
commanding general, who enters the war poor, and leaves it rich, 
by possessing himself of the herds of some individual of the oppo- 
site party. 

The grazing farms (estdblicimenlos pastoros) are generally owned 
by capitalists, who leave the entire management of their estates 
each to a capitaz, who lives in a thatched hut, with no comforts 
— not even those for the table that might be derived from the 
rudest culture of the soil. A few proprietors reside upon their 
estancias, in excellent adobe houses, and possess generally great 
popularity and influence over the gauchos, the only laborers of 
the Eiverine Provinces. Muscular and athletic, scarcely a shade 
lighter than the Indian, with long uncombed black locks, the 
appearance of the gaucho in his picturesque costume is imposing. 
When we glance at the training of these men, and know that in 
the military agitations of the country they are the soldiers, and 
that many of the chieftains who have figured prominently in the 
strifes of the land belong to this class, we cease to be astonished 
at the sanguinary character of their contests. The whole educa- 
tion of the gaucho is physical. The long sheath-knife — the toy 
of his infancy — is the prized weapon of his matured years ; the 
pastimes of youth are feats of horsemanship, trials of skill with 
the lasso and bolas ; the most peaceful occupation of his manhood 
is to figure in the spectacles of the country — the corrals — as a 
"domador" or marker of cattle, or to be an active laborer in its 
only industrial establishments, saladeros. Such pursuits leave 
their mark. Many of them become imbued with a brutal ferocity 
— a fearful indifference to the shedding of blood, which exhibits 
itself in the atrocities that characterize the civil wars of La Plata. 



332 EXPLORATION OF THE SALADO. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Chartering of the little Steamer. — Arrival at Santa Fe. — Province of Santa Fe. — 
Civil Wars and Independence. — Wood. — Ascent of the River. — Animal Life. — 
Ducks, Jaguars, Capibaras, and Armadillos. — The Diver, Podiceps leucopterus. — 
Planting of sweet Potatoes. — The Crucito. — The Saladito. — La Cruz. — The Bed 
of a Lagoon. — Monte Aguara. — The Return. — Current and Width of the River. — 
The Jaguar. — Density of the Salado Water. — Journey by Land to the upper Wa- 
ters. — A Tatu. — Quebracho. — The Mirage. — The surly Officer. — The Tongue of 
the taciturn Argentino loosened. — The Segundo. — Tio or Concepcion. — Algor- 
roba and Soil. — Arrival at Cordova. — List of Distances. 

Immediately on my return I chartered from the agent of the 
American and Paraguay Company a small steamer, which had 
been shipped from the United States in detached pieces, and was 
now being put together in the " Tigre" for the purpose of explor- 
ing the Salado.* Her length was 112 feet, draught 26 inches, 
with all on board — twenty-five souls, two months' provisions, six 
tons of coal, and two cords of wood. 

On the first day of July, as she was in a running condition, and 
her accommodations sufficiently advanced to afford protection from 
the weather, I took possession of her, and on the 2d started for 
the scene of our future operations, accompanied by the following 
officers : Acting Lieutenants William L. Powell and W. H. Mur- 
daugh, Assistant Surgeon Eobert Carter, Assistant Engineer T. B. 
C. Stump, and a crew of twenty men. 

Previous to this move the entrance to the Palma Pass had been 
surveyed, and to Lieutenant Jeffers was assigned the charge of the 
Water Witch, with instructions to complete the work at Martin 
Garcia, the result of which has already been given. 

We proceeded through the Arroyo Capitan, the Palma Pass, 
and Baradero, which, in connection with the work subsequently 
done by Lieutenant Powell on his return in the Yerba, completed 
the survey of the various branches of the Parana within its delta 
to the town of Santa Fe, the starting-point of our Salado expedi- 
tion. 

Our arrival quite disturbed the quietude of Santa Fe, and ex- 
cited a vast deal of enthusiasm ; for, should the Salado prove nav- 

* The Salado, that empties into the Parana at Santa Fe. 



SANTA FE. 333 

igable to the western provinces, great prosperity might be antici- 
pated for this town and province. To verify the predictions of 
some and realize the hopes of others depended upon contingencies 
in the future of the work that gave rise to endless speculation. 
Our reception, both by officials and individuals, was very flatter- 
ing, but none could give us any information as to the state of the 
river ; indeed, all accounts were discouraging. "We were told by 
those who were supposed to be the best informed that we might 
possibly ascend about 45 miles; by some that it was no river; 
and by others that it took its rise in one of the numerous lakes in 
that region of country. 

We dined with the governor, and accompanied his family to a 
ball, where we were agreeably impressed with the tact and good 
breeding of the men and women. The latter were generally 
handsome and well dressed, and danced with the inimitable grace 
and precision which I have alluded to as distinguishing their coun- 
trywomen. 

At the period of our visit the aspect of Santa Fe was rather des- 
olate, for both country and city had suffered in years past from 
the hostilities of the Chaco Indians, and the latter was not yet, 
like its neighbor Eosario, revivified by the opening of the rivers. 
Before the Eevolution this province was considered as forming 
part of the jurisdiction of Buenos Ayres, and as no expense was 
spared in protecting it from the incursions of the savages by forts 
adequately garrisoned, it was one of the most prosperous towns in 
the viceroyalty, a point of distribution not only for the products 
of the west and northwest, but of Corrientes and Paraguay, for 
Chili and Peru. Its estancieros alone, from their herds in this and 
the province of Entre Eios, were able to furnish 50,000 mules an- 
nually for the Alto Peruvian market, and the amount of one item, 
yerba, received in transitu, reached 125,000 arobas. 

In the civil wars which distracted the country after its separa- 
tion from Spain, Santa Fe declared itself independent of the cen- 
tral government, and drew the line of division at the Arroyo del 
Medio. 

But by this act was sown the germ of its decadence, for to 
maintain garrisons and establish posts for the protection of a long 
line of frontier, as well as to guard against invasion from other 
quarters, were more than the resources of the new state would ad- 
mit of. Outposts were driven in from time to time, estancias, the 
richest in La Plata, were robbed of cattle and deserted by their 



334 ASCENT OF THE SALADO. 

owners, while, emboldened by success, the Indians at last advanced 
to the vicinity of the town, and on several occasions entered it 
and committed horrible excesses. The finest districts of the conn- 
try were finally abandoned, and the whole population of the state 
reduced to about sixteen or twenty thousand souls, of which the 
towns of Eosario and Santa Fe embraced nearly one half within 
their limits, the former containing about 3000 and the latter 6000 
souls. 

The position of Santa Fe, on an arm of the Parana, makes it 
less accessible to sailing vessels than other towns of that river. 
But all difficulties will be obviated by the introduction of steam- 
ers of suitable construction ; and now that the navigability of the 
Salado for 900 miles is established, its facilities for communica- 
tion with the western states are so increased that it must not 
only re-attain its old prosperity and consideration, but become the 
rival of its neighbor Eosario, which is now the emporium of trade 
in the Confederation. The same elements that have so far ex- 
panded and enlivened the once contracted and silent streets of the 
latter will also build up the vacant squares of this town, and line 
its bold water-front with store-houses for the receipt and dispatch 
of the products of the country. 

To obtain the necessary fuel for our craft we were obliged to 
intercept, early in the morning, carts bringing in the daily sup- 
ply ; which sometimes embarrassed, I fear, the domestic economy 
of many a housewife, who doubtless wished us, in return, a speedy 
departure. This wood, principally algorroba, was bought for half 
the price paid at other parts of the Parana. 

On the 13th July, 1855, with the governor, his family, and a 
few friends on board, who desired to accompany us a short dis- 
tance, we commenced our ascent of the Salado. 

Although it was the season of low water, the river, for some 
miles above its mouth, was very full, and the low lands on either 
side inundated. Its width was from one to two hundred feet; 
depth, twelve to eighteen ; current, about one and a half miles the 
hour ; windings between any two points equal to four times the 
distance on a straight line ; banks well wooded with algorroba. 

'We had gone, by the course of the river, about eighteen miles, 
when, coming to a point at which the governor had ordered con- 
veyances, we parted with our guests, and, cheered by a bright, 
pleasant morning, were now fairly under way. 

" July 16. By the course of the river we have advanced 75 



THE PAMPAS OF THE CHACO. 335 

miles, and are near the last frontier post of Santa Fe, distant, in a 
direct line from the city, 20 miles. Passing this point, all civili- 
zation is behind us ; we are entering the undisturbed possessions 
of the Chaco tribes. The river presents a more decided and de- 
fined character, with a gradual diminution of current, which arises 
from the fact that it is here supplied only by its main source and 
tributaries, without the additional discharge of numerous over- 
flowing lakes. It courses through a bottom or flat, from one to 
four miles in breadth, in some places sparsely and in others dense- 
ly wooded. The banks rise from twenty to fifty feet, to the level 
of a pampa, which presents a vast grassy expanse without any in- 
equalities of surface. As the eye wanders over it, a dark wavy 
line in the distance alone breaks the monotony of the plain, and 
marks the windings of the Salado with its fringing of algorroba. 

"Although we are but little more than twenty miles from a 
town of five thousand inhabitants, there is not a vestige of civili- 
zation or the track of a human being ; even the footprint of an 
Indian is nowhere visible ; but the manifestations of animal life 
are extraordinary. Eiver and plain are enlivened by fowl and 
quadruped in endless variety. It is the domain of the jaguar, the 
shielded armadillo, ducks, geese, flocks of the black-necked swan, 
plover of different species, partridges, pigeons of extraordinary 
size, the guanaco, the ostrich, the hare, the deer, the clumsy capi- 
bara ; while the waters teem with fish and the air is darkened by 
flocks of the small white gull. 

"We occasionally rob the nests of ducks and geese. Having 
taken some of the first in the moulting state, it gave rise to an 
amusing discussion among the officers ; some contending that 
they were pichones (young ones) ; but when they were served 
up for dinner the impossibility of masticating the most delicate 
morsels decided the question. It is our habit to stop before sun- 
set for wood ; and so abundant is the growth that in two hours 
our axemen obtain an ample supply of the best algorroba for 
the next day's work. These are also our opportunities for bo- 
tanic and zoological research. 

" July 18. "While getting up steam at an early hour, I strolled 
a short distance inland and shot some partridges. The pampa is 
now broken by lagoons dotted with islets and gay with water- 
fowl. Up to this point, we are distant, by observation, from 
Santa Fe — in a right line bearing south by east — thirty-three 
miles; and by the river one hundred and fifty — which will give 



336 THE SALADO. 

some idea of its windings. A heavy frost this morning covered 
the ground like a fall of snow. Thermometer, at 4 A.M., 35°. 
By the gauge we find the water has fallen, in the last twelve 
hours, only one inch. 

"July 19. The pampa is belted by lofty trees, generally que- 
bracho, and slopes gently to the 'bottom,' which is now narrowed 
to half a mile on either side of the river. There is no under- 
growth, the grass is fresh and green, and no meadow could pre- 
sent a more refreshing aspect. It is the second winter month, 
but the air is soft and balmy as a May day in temperate zones. 
The river and land still teem with animal life, and yet we can not 
trace a sign of human occupation. 

" July 20th. Eiver less tortuous; depth from fifteen to eighteen 
feet. Passed an arroyo on the right bank, which runs through a 
broad flat, extending north and west ; water too brackish to be 
drinkable. At the junction of this little stream the Salado washes 
the base of the high land, here densely wooded ; the banks show 
a stratum of yellow clay resting on tosca, and above, a surface-soil 
of rich vegetable earth from two to four feet in depth. The 
river has fallen within the last twelve hours six inches — very dif- 
ferent from its state a few days past ; for there are now but few 
lagoons to feed it. Its windings carry us quite round the compass. 
Passed what I supposed to be an arroyo on the left bank ; but 
on rounding a bend of about three miles, which brought us nearly 
back to the same point, found it nothing more than a ' break 
through' of the main river, which will doubtless become soon the 
principal channel. The distance across, through which it had 
made its way, is not more than one hundred yards. 

" Opening, at the season of low water, canals across the various 
necks of land, would shorten the distance quite one third ; for, 
with the least excavation imaginable, the Salado would in a short 
time make for itself a new and more direct channel. Passed the 
Esquina Grande, where stood in former days a Spanish fort, not 
a vestige of which now remains. We continue to see deer, cap- 
inchas, geese, ducks, plover, snipe,, in vast numbers. Among the 
ducks was a beautiful diver, the Podiceps leucopterus, that attracted 
our admiration and particular notice. It carries its young upon 
its back ; and it was amusing to see the little creatures dive, and, 
on rising to the surface, again resume their place upon the ma- 
ternal back. Here are evidences that the river has fallen from 
the highest point about six feet, and still we find a depth of fif- 



THE SALADITO. - 337 

teen ; banks from five to eight feet in height, with indications of 
overflow ; current one mile ; average width one hundred feet. 

" Saw a large herd of wild horses. Affrighted by the appear- 
ance of the steamer, and perhaps still more by the noise of our 
high-pressure engine, they dashed over the plains as if mad, and 
were soon hid among the algorrobas. "We have seen no Indians, 
and no immediate trace of them, save a well of fresh water not 
far from the bank, and evidently not very recently dug. I have 
left my mark in this country by planting a few orange seeds and 
some sweet potatoes. Soil a dark alluvium, with a rich growth 
of grass ; the water is more brackish as we progress. 

" July 23d During the last twelve hours the river has fallen 
five inches. The frost this morning again covered the plain like 
snow. Thermometer during the night 29° ; at 7 A.M., 32° ; at 
8, 42° ; at 12 M., 60° ; at 4 P.M., 58° ; at 8 P.M., 52° ; at mid- 
night 41°. The least depth, up to meridian, nine feet ; but be- 
fore the close of the day's run we had as little as -five, with a tosca 
bottom. I fear that I shall be compelled to retrace my steps much 
sooner than I had anticipated. I was aware that it was the period 
of low water ; but the inundated banks near the mouth of the 
Salado induced the hope that an extraordinary season had kept 
up a supply. "We are about seventy-five miles in a right line 
from Santa Fe, bearing S. by E., and three hundred by the river. 
Its course is now less tortuous, and as we ascend, the navigation 
is not so impeded, and the ' bottom' narrowed by the approach 
on either side of the more elevated lands of the pampa. 

" July 2-Lth. The river has fallen in the past twelve hours three 
and a half inches ; twenty -four hours previously within the same 
time it fell five inches. From the right a small stream, the Cru- 
oito, flows into the Salado; water dark, but clear and sweet. 
Pulled up it in a boat half a mile. It is very narrow, with five 
feet depth, and is doubtless the outlet of some lake — probably the 
Porongas. Before the close of the day had but four feet water, 
muddy bottom ; river inclines more to the northwest, and is less 
tortuous ; banks well wooded with algorroba. Were the river 
not falling, I should feel much encouraged to proceed with this 
exploration, for I am more and more impressed with the belief 
that it is a channel of vast importance. Made fast to the right 
bank near the mouth of a small stream of turbid, brackish water, 
which I called Saladito (little Salado). Pulled up it a mile or 
two ; found a depth of three feet and considerable current. It is 

22 



838 EIVER FALLING. 

undoubtedly the outpouring of some saline lake. At its junction 
there were myriads of cat-fish, of which the men at one haul with 
our net filled the little boat. Near the same point were countless 
numbers of small white gulls. Position of the mouth of the Sal- 
adito, latitude 30° 14/ ; longitude 60° 41/ W. ; variation 9° ; dis- 
tant from Sante Fe eighty -five miles in a right line, by the river 
340. 

" July 25th. At 6 A.M., thermometer 33°. Eiver has fallen in 
the last twelve hours half an inch ; this gives me hope that it has 
reached its lowest point here and above. There was ice this 
morning. Thermometer at 4h. 31° ; a't 8h. 37°. 

" The men amused themselves with setting fire to the grass to 
give the immigrants next year richer pasturage. 

"A mile or two above the Saladito came to the mouth of an- 
other small tributary from the same bank, which at first per- 
plexed me, for I was in doubt as to which was the principal river. 
I pulled up it a mile or more ; found it very narrow, with some 
current ; water dark and sweet, from which I concluded that it 
could not be the Salado, but ' La Cruz' (the Cross). We continu- 
ed to ascend what I considered the main river, having a slight 
decrease in the depth and a width less than the length of the 
steamer. I took a small boat and pulled ahead a few miles. The 
water was as salt as that of the ocean, and its general characteris- 
tics satisfied me that it was the veritable Salado. I mounted the 
bank — here fifteen feet to the level of the pampa ; observed a 
lake or river in the distance, and, approaching, found that it was 
the dry bed of a lagoon, now covered with a saline efflorescence 
which sparkled and shone like a sheet of beautiful water. As 
far as the eye could reach the monotony of the pampa was broken 
by two wooded belts, one extending north, the other west. The 
first I believe to be the course of the Salado, the other of La 
Cruz. I proceed north with the steamer. 

"July 26th. In the last fifteen hours the water has fallen three 
and a half inches. Not very encouraging, but we go ahead. 
Have advanced eight miles ; depth decreasing ; took to the little 
boat ; pulled up two miles ; found only two and a half feet, and 
the obstruction of a fallen algorroba, which will interrupt the pas- 
sage of the boat. This should not prove an insurmountable ob- 
struction had the river ceased falling, or were there water enough 
beyond. Indeed, neither of these difficulties should turn me back 
did I not hold the ' Yerba' under a contract by which I am to re- 



LIMIT OF THE EXPLORATION. 339 

turn her in little more than one month. I should, under other 
circumstances, remain here until the rise, which should begin in 
November, and may be hastened by local rains. 

"This point — Monte Aguara — must then be the extent of the 
exploration in the Salado with the steamer Yerba. It is in lati- 
tude 31° 10' 50" south, longitude 60° 38' 47" west; distant from 
Santa Fe by river 340 miles, and in a right line 96. On the 
right bank, which rises about twenty feet to a wooded skirt, stands 
a large guaranina-tree. On this we cut a cross and the letters XL 
S., and about ten feet from it buried a bottle containing latitude, 
longitude, names of officers and steamer. 

" With regret I retrace my steps ; but in ascending and demon- 
strating the navigability of the Salado to Monte Aguara we have 
achieved something. Its uniform character, unchanging course, 
and well-defined banks ; its rise, as indicated by marks on trees ; 
the unbroken plain through which it flows, all induce the belief 
that it is a river capable of being navigated to a great distance be- 
yond the point reached. Its complete exploration is of import- 
ance, not only to the Argentine Confederation, but to the whole 
commercial world. 

" To set at rest all doubt as to its navigability I will return to 
Santa Fe, and by land proceed to some point in the Province of 
Santiago, from which I can descend by some means to Monte 
Aguara." 

It will have been seen by these extracts from my journal that, 
when scarce beyond the smoke of Santa Fe, we had passed every 
habitation of man, even the scattered huts of a few charcoal-burn- 
ers, and entered the domain of those fierce aboriginals of the Cha- 
co, the Indian and the jaguar; that we followed the windings of 
a navigable river for three hundred and forty miles in a steamer 
of two feet draught without meeting with even the obstruction of 
a fallen tree ; that the pampa rises from twenty to fifty feet above 
the " flat" through which the Salado flows, presenting at times a 
boundless plain, over which the eye wanders without discerning 
the slightest inequality of surface. Again, after penetrating- 
through a magnificent bordering of quebracho or algorroba, we 
find the interior country diversified by park-like groupings of al- 
gorroba, by the wooded belting of some tributary stream, or by 
lakes and salinas, the first darkened by myriads of water-fowl, 
while the latter are glistening in the sun with saline efflorescence. 

We found at times little or no current; the least depth was 



340 SHOOTING A JAGUAR. 

thirty inches when the water had ceased falling ; and its greatest 
rise, as indicated by marks on the bank, was twelve feet. Its 
width did not much exceed thirty }^ards, and above La Cruz, 
though the river was brackish, we generally found water fresh 
and sweet by digging a few feet below the surface at a short dis- 
tance from the banks. I think it probable that both the Crucito 
and La Cruz have their rise in the Lake Porongas, which receives 
an immense volume of water from the Rio Dulce, independent of 
other sources, and, like it, are perfectly free from saliferous de- 
posits, which would not probably be the case were they fed by 
the draining of other lagoons, most of which are saline. 

As an illustration of the physical character of the basin of La 
Plata at its various points, it is worthy of note that between these 
two little rivers there flows the Saladito, which empties into the 
Salado not more than one mile from the mouth of La Cruz, and 
yet its water is as salt as the ocean ; this stream is doubtless the 
outpouring of a saline lagoon. 

Throughout this exploration we saw no Indians, and, except a 
few wells, beaten paths, and marks of encampment, no traces of 
them ; and yet the verdant meadows and plains, the rich dark soil 
conveyed an undoubted impression of fertility. I found that offi- 
cers and men were indulging in the old habit of selecting estan- 
cias and covering them with flocks and herds. 

The botany of this region offered us nothing new, but from its 
zoology we made many interesting additions to our collections. 
The number and varied species of animal life were extraordinary. 
An army could have subsisted for a time upon the resources of 
the plain and river. 

In descending we shot a magnificent jaguar — the largest I have 
ever seen, measuring from its nose to the root of the tail five feet 
two inches. He was walking on the left bank, doubtless bound 
on a fishing excursion. Instead of escaping inland when he saw 
us, he dashed into the river, as if to swim to the opposite shore ; 
but midway the stream he suddenly turned, as if to battle with 
the steamer. Several men came forward, eager to have a shot at 
the enemy, who approached rapidly, apparently undaunted by the 
appearance or noise of crew or vessel, and snarling as if impa- 
tient to make an end of us. Anxious to secure it as a specimen, 
and of course with as little mutilation as possible, I directed the 
men to wait for the word " fire," giving the first chance to Kelly, 
the best shot on board. I told him to lodge the ball "abaft" the 



HYDROMETRIC MEASUREMENTS. 



341 




SHOOTING THE JAGUAE. 

ear. He raised his musket, took deliberate aim, and fired. The 
huge creature floundered in the water, and when the men in the 
boat reached him a minute or two later he was not quite dead, 
but bleeding profusely, and so far gone as to be harmless. With 
a ship's musket, and a charge of "buck and ball," Kelly had se- 
cured one of the finest specimens of the South American tiger, 
perhaps, ever seen in the United States. The skin was carefully 
preserved in salt, and sent home, where it arrived in good condi- 
tion, and may be seen in the collection at the Smithsonian In- 
stitute. 

Among the swimming birds secured are several species of teals, 
differing but little, and yet with distinctive marks in plumage. 

The density of the Salado water at two points — one below the 
tributaries alluded to, and the other- at Monte Aguara— also that 
of the Crucito and La Cruz, was tested by hydrometric measure- 
ment, and found as follows : 

Density of Salado below the tributaries by hydrometer 

(No. T).. : . 8^.5 

Temperature of water (Fahr.) 54°.5 

" air '" 38° 



342 KETTJRN TO SANTA FE. 

Density of Kiver Crucito 2°. 3 

Temperature of water 52°. 5 

" air 59°.5 

Density of Eiver La Cruz. 6°. 3 

Temperature of water 4t°.5 

" air 48°.5 

Density of the Salado at Monte Aquara 21°.88 

Temperature of water 54° 

" air 69° 

It will be seen that the difference in density between the two 
points of the river at its present low state, below and above the 
fresh- water tributaries, is very great, and can alone be attributed 
to their influence. 

On the 26th we began to retrace our steps. The season of fall 
in this river is from May to November ; and boats adapted to its 
navigation during the greater part of the year should not have 
length exceeding 90 feet, beam 16, draft 2 ; and with the addition 
of a rudder in the bow a steamer could be more effectually con- 
trolled through its tortuous windings. 

During our return it was "touch and go," on several of the 
shoalest places, showing that it was well we had not postponed a 
day later. The water had reached nearly its lowest point, and 
though in some parts it had decreased eight feet in twelve days, 
it was now falling only at the rate of two inches in twenty -four 
hours. Exposed sections of the banks at various points showed 
invariably a substratum of indurated clay, with a deep surface-soil. 

We reached Santa Fe on the 6th of the month, and on the 
12th, having completed the necessary observations, the Yerba was 
given in charge to Lieutenant Powell, with instructions to explore 
such branches of the Parana as had not been already surveyed ; 
and then. to deliver up the steamer to the parties from whom she 
had been chartered, and rejoin the Water Witch. 

I detached Lieutenant Murdaugh, and Cornelius, one of the 
most reliable men of our crew, to accompany me in a land jour- 
ney to the head- waters of the Salado, and if possible to those of 
the Pilcomayo. To establish the navigability of this latter river 
was with me a work of absorbing interest; and as the "Lopez 
decree" would not let us ascend it from the Paraguay, I thought 
that we might, with such means of defense against Indians as the 
Bolivians would gladly afford, work our way down it 'with the 
current, or even alone, on some craft that would float. 



LAND JOURNEY UNDERTAKEN. 343 

I determined to proceed direct to Cordova, thence to Santiago 
del Estero, and so on to Bolivia. The route from Sante Fe to the 
west was now entirely abandoned, and that from Eosario adopted, 
in consequence of the inhospitable character of the Indians in that 
section of the province. But the governor, with his usual zeal 
to forward our work, offered me a small military escort, and with 
our three carbines, and thus re-enforced, I thought we could make 
our way through any party of wandering savages ; for they never 
encamp or establish toldos on this road, as their principal object 
is to plunder the tropas* of oxen, horses, or any portable effects, 
and retire to the interior of the Chaco. 

I also timed my departure to suit that of the military com- 
mander-in-chief of the province, Colonel Eodriguez, who was 
going to examine Eomero, twenty-two leagues from Santa Fe, 
for the purpose of establishing a new military post, which would 
extend the frontier line of defense twelve leagues. 

Sause, ten leagues from Santa Fe, was then the last post, and 
our stopping-place the first night. Near it is a pueblito of six or 
seven hundred civilized Abipones, one of the most desolate and 
comfortless villages we had seen. For this no possible reason 
could be assigned, other than the indolence and improvidence of 
its inhabitants ; for the surrounding country is fertile, and offers 
excellent pasturage. We were kept awake the beginning of the 
night by the unceasing howling and barking of dogs, apparently 
quite equal in number to the population ; and toward day by the 
crowing of as many game-cocks. At 4 A.M. I roused up Cornel- 
ius, who had become quite an adept in making mate, and we for- 
tified ourselves for a long day's ride with this beverage. 

We started at an early hour, and expecting to travel sixty-seven 
miles without changing horses, our progress was necessarily slow 
— generally a walk, the most unusual and fatiguing gait in a 
horseback journey over the plains. At 4 o'clock P.M. we reach- 
ed Eomero, a point distinguished in the unbroken level of the 
pampa by four quebracho-trees and a small lagoon. Before we 
had reached our halting-place, one of the soldiers branched off, 
and seemed to be hunting for something over the plain. He 
soon reappeared with a " tatu," an animal of the armadillo family. 
It was roasted in its own shell, and proved as delicious a morsel 
as could delight the palate of an epicure. After halting an hour 
we continued our journey, accompanied by an Argentine officer 

* A number of wagons transporting produce or merchandise. 



344 SAUSE.— QUEBRACHO. 

and two soldiers as escort, and at 8 P.M. reached Quebracho Solo, 
a spot, as its name indicates, marked by a single tree. Here we 
halted, as one of our soldiers pretended to be ill. I was pro- 
voked, for I had hopes during the night to reach the next military 
post, and almost wished for the yell of an Indian, which I knew 
would prove a panacea for the man's feigned illness. But it was 
useless to remonstrate ; so, settling ourselves upon the plain, with 
saddle-blanket for bed, and saddle for pillow, with poncho for 
over-all, and the starry heavens for canopy, we soon dropped into 
a sleep not disturbed so much by fear of Indians as by cold, mus- 
quitoes, and innumerable insects. By 4 A.M. the sick soldier had 
entirely recovered, and, continuing our journey, we reached Que- 
bracho at 9 o'clock A.M., distant from Komero thirty-six miles, 
and from Sause sixty-seven. 

We were now within the Province of Cordova, but none could 
inform us where lay the dividing line. One declared it to be 
near this post, another that it was twelve miles east. At Sause we 
saw a domesticated guanaco — a beautiful animal, and easily tamed 
when young. They are highly valued for their wool and hides ; 
but the country people consider their flesh indifferent food. Yast 
numbers of them are found in the west provinces, but up to 
Quebracho we saw but one flock, and that was flying over the 
plain as if pursued by mounted Indians or gauchos, from which 
we presumed that the watchman on duty espied us before we saw 
his charge.* 

Arriving at Quebracho we had made one hundred and twenty- 
seven miles from Santa Fe, traveling the whole distance through 
an unbroken plain. Its solitude was undisturbed except by the 
military post and Abipone village to which I have alluded, and 
the passage occasionally of a deer, ostrich, partridge, or a herd of 
guanaco. There was no impression of space ; it was a shoreless 
sea of grass, the eye alone finding a resting-place upon the hori- 
zon, from which the sun rose as from the ocean. The refraction 
was very great; as in the African deserts, there were "Lakes of 
the Gazelle" — waters that never fail ; and upon these grassy sa- 
liferous pampas water is so scarce as to make these illusions of 
mirage both refreshing and tormenting. 

Quebracho is a desolate spot, without trees or cultivation. 
Soldiers shifting from gable end to front, and back, from side to 

* A male guanaco is said to be always on watch when they descend to the plains 
from the mountains. 



A SUELY OFFICER. 345 

gable end, to seek shade from a mid-day sun, presented a com- 
plete scene of lazy discomfort. A kid, chickens, and eggs, how- 
ever, furnished us with an- excellent breakfast, during the prep- 
aration of which Mr. Murdaugh excited the astonishment and 
delight of the military by an exhibition of the power of one of 
Colt's revolvers. They had never imagined or dreamed of such 
an improvement in fire-arms. The ten hours' ride of the previous 
day, a night on the pampa, and five hours in the saddle that 
morning before reaching the posta, was not a very good prepara- 
tion for another ride of forty-two miles and the grass for a bed 
when it was over. But, refreshed by our breakfast, we mounted 
horse, and started for the "Posta Tio," again escorted by a lieu- 
tenant and two soldiers, the latter seemingly much better fitted to 
command than their officer, who, silent and surly, lurked behind 
or rode ahead, seldom bestowing upon us the pleasure of his com- 
pany or conversation. As we approached a grove of trees, he 
dashed ahead, dismounted, and disappeared, only to rejoin us late 
in the day. He had spent the previous night gambling, and had 
availed himself of the shade of the grove for a siesta. Gaming 
is the vice of these people. 

The afternoon was oppressively hot. This, it will be remem- 
bered, was the last winter month, and, with the sun in our faces, 
we suffered so excessively from thirst that my recollections of this 
stage of the journey are by no means pleasant. The officer knew 
of no water within reasonable distance of our route ; " none could 
be had nearer than Tio," still twenty -five miles distant. Having 
quietly ascertained from one of the soldiers that there was a la- 
goon {las vivoras) a mile or two ahead, I rode to it, found the wa- 
ter brackish but drinkable ; and close to were some dead bushes, 
out of which we made a fire, and settled ourselves for the night. 
The lieutenant was still shy, and the soldiers looked perplexed, as 
if in doubt whether their duty was near us or their commander. 
A bright fire, an excellent mate, coffee, and some of the treasures 
of our saddle-bags in the shape of cold sausage and ship's biscuit, 
touched the heart and loosened the tongue of the hitherto taciturn 
Argentino, who drew up, and, under the influence of good fare, 
became quite agreeable. I intimated to the gentleman that his 
"command" must assist in collecting food for the fire, or dispense 
with it. In this pampa apartment we were at least free from the 
annoyance of barking dogs, crowing cocks, bed-bugs, and other 
plagues of postas, and slept soundly until three o'clock A.M., 



346 SALINE DEPOSITS.— TIO. 

when I was awakened thoroughly chilled by the ice on my pon- 
cho. I turned out, roused up Cornelius ; and when the sun was 
rising, as from an ocean horizon, we were again galloping toward 
Tio, greatly comforted by the all-refreshing mate taken before 
starting. We soon entered a section of the pampa diversified by 
islas del monte (wooded islets). There is more or less saliferous 
deposit throughout the distance from Santa Fe to Quebracho, but 
from this last post to Tio its presence is excessive ; extensive sec- 
tions are white with the efflorescence of salt or saltpetre. No 
traveler should follow this route over the plain without a provi- 
sion of water as well as food, and should be prepared to pass his 
nights upon the grass ; for where a little fuel is to be found, it of- 
fers a much more comfortable bed than the floor or hide cots of 
the wretched postas. As our journey was made in the last win- 
ter month, we suffered somewhat from cold, but an additional 
blanket or two would remedy this inconvenience. 

Three quarters of a mile from Tio we forded the Segundo, the 
water up to the bellies of the horses, and saw on the left bank the 
remains of the old town of Tio, removed to its present position in 
consequence of the inundations of the river, which, according to 
the commandante, has its outlet in a large lake, Mar Chico (little 
sea), twenty -five miles from this place. 

Tio, or Conception, as it is now called, is a neat little village of 
about thirty whitewashed and thatched adobe houses, placed as 
usual around a square, at one end of which was a chapel. There 
were in this neighborhood very few cattle, but fine flocks of sheep. 
The first are worth from twelve to sixteen dollars the head, the 
latter from seventy -five cents to one dollar. Horses could be pur- 
chased for eight dollars, and mares for two. 

The commandante received us kindly, and the well-bred civili- 
ties of his wife and daughter made our short stay at this place a 
pleasant moment in this ride over the pampa. From here our 
journey to Cordova was much facilitated by the addition of two 
cargaro horses, for which we paid, inclusive of the services of a 
man in charge of each, 18 J cents the league, and for saddle-horses 
6 cents the same distance. 

We now entered upon a comparatively populous and well-cul- 
tivated country. The houses in view from the road had a clean, 
comfortable appearance, and wheat-fields were a charming sight 
after the monotony of the uncultivated plains. We were once 
more amid an agricultural people, and the yield of wheat, even 



DISTANCES. 347 

under their system of culture — by no means the best — averages 
thirty bushels per acre. Our journey from Tio to San Francisco, 
the next posta, was made at a full gallop, the usual and least fa- 
tiguing gait in traveling over the pampas. 

After leaving San Francisco, and about thirty-six miles from 
Tio, we came to the dry sandy bed of a river ; its banks were from 
five to ten feet in height, with the usual wooded belting, and, in 
fact, every characteristic of a considerable river but the most es- 
sential one — water. It proved ,to be El Segundo, which here 
again, in its windings, crossed our path. The country between 
San Francisco and Monte Kedonda is populous, with fine inclosed 
wheat-fields, algorroba abundant, and soil a light but rich alluvi- 
um. I took from the river bank, three feet from the surface, a 
specimen of earth highly impregnated with saltpetre. 

Beyond this posta we entered an undulating country, soil light, 
and vegetation much parched by drought. Approaching Cordo- 
va, we found the dwellings of the country more ambitiously con- 
structed, but the cultivation poor, and the people less civil than 
in districts remote from town. I had noted this throughout the 
basin of La Plata. In the vicinage of cities and towns the hospi- 
table impulses of the people seemed to be checked by distrust or 
fear. From Consejo, the last posta of this route, the sierras of 
Cordova were in view ; and there was a perceptible ascent to the 
rolling lands which begin a little east of the low broken ridges 
that concealed the capital. "Wearied with the monotony of the 
plains, we hailed with delight the appearance of these outposts of 
the Andean ranges. It was quite dark when we reached the sum- 
mit of the last ridge in approaching the city. Eighty feet below 
were the lights of the Athens of La Plata, and in a few minutes 
we were following the vaqueano into the court-yard of a French 
fonda upon the plaza. 

Pight glad were we to rest for a day or two after our horseback 
journey ; for, though sailors, we had made the distances of the 
gaucho, and yet our feats of horsemanship had not begun. 

In a right line west — from Santa Fe to Cordova — we had trav- 
eled two hundred and forty miles. 

From Santa Fe to Sause, the frontier post. 30 miles. 

" Sause to Romero 31 " 

" Romero to Quebracho, first post of Cordova East 36 c; 

" Quebracho to Tio or Concepcion 35 " 

" Concepcion to Cana 9 " 



348 CORDOVA. 

From Cana to Arroyo Cito 12 miles. 

" Arroyo Cito to San Francisco 15 " 

" San Francisco to Monte Redonda 18 " 

" Monte Redonda to Uruguay 12 " 

" Uruguay to Canada 9 " 

" Canada to Consejo 9 " 

" Consejo to Antonio Francisco. ... . 12 " 

" Antonio Francisco to Cordova 12 " 

Total.. ., 240 " 

The first three are military posts. From Tio to Cordova the 
postas are for the benefit of travelers, who may find at them all 
the usual accommodations — an empty house, scanty fare, hide 
cots without bedding, and indifferent horses. 



CHAPTEE XX. 

Cordova. — De Garay. — Population of the Province. — The City of Cordova. — Trade. 
— Rail-road surveyed by Mr. Campbell. — Madam . — Cathedral and Public- 
Buildings. — The Colegio Maximo. — Paintings. — Dr. Hawling's Tannery. — The 
Market. — Copper in the Sierras of Cordova. — Sefior Zuverir. — Mineral Districts. 
— A Journey to Santiago.— Appearance of the Horses : their Powers of Endur- 
ance. — Valley of Jesus Maria. — Shepherds' Dogs. — Divisidero. — Posta San Pe- 
dro. — Rosario. — Hard Riding. — Posta del Monte. — Bed of the Rio Dulce. — 
Quichua Language. — Perqui. — The Harpist. — The Tropero. — A Dance and no 
Supper. — Cana. — Another Tropa. — Arrival at Santiago. 

Cordova is one of the Western States of the "Confederation," 
one of " Las Provincias Arabellas" — a region conquered and set- 
tled by the Spaniards of Peru ; a party of whom, commanded hy 
Don Diego Eojas, reached it in 1543. Don Luis de Cabrera, ap- 
pointed in 1573 governor of those districts, founded the city of 
Cordova, with the hope -and ultimate design of opening a com- 
munication to the Parana. While De Garay was engaged in 
establishing the settlement of Santa Fe, a man, from the mast- 
head of his little vessel, which was moored at the mouth of the 
Salado, observed signal-fires lighting over the plain and a great 
movement among the Indians. Expecting to be attacked, De 
Garay was preparing to make the best defense he could, when the 
"look-out man" descried in the distance a cavalier; another, and 
yet another, until a number of horsemen appeared charging the 
savages in their rear. It was a party of Cabrera's followers, who 
here met for the first time the conquerors of La Plata. These 



POPULATION.— COMMERCE. 349 

northwest provinces remained a part of the Yiceroyalty of Peru 
until 1776, when they were annexed to that of Buenos Ayres. 

The city of Cordova, the capital, stands near the right bank of 
the Primero, in latitude 81° 24/ south, longitude 64° 09' west,* 
on a plain 1240 feet above the level of the Parana at Eosario. It 
is the principal and only considerable town of the state, which is 
bounded on the north by Santiago del Estero, east by Santa Fe, 
south by Buenos Ayres, and west by the Sierras de Cordova ; 
their highest point, " La Cuesta," rising 2500 feet above the plains. 
Numerous rivers — the principal of which are the Primero, Segun- 
do, Tercero, Quarto, and Quinto^— that intersect the state, fertilize 
a large extent of country, and flow east until lost in the sandy 
plains or in the "Mar Chico." Only one, the Tercero, disem- 
bogues in the Parana, under the name of Carcarana. 

The population of the state may be estimated, in the absence 
of all reliable data, at 100,000 souls, of which the capital contains 
15,000. This is a lower estimate than is assigned it by some, and 
yet it would seem to be too great when we remember that thirty 
years ago it was given by census at 85,000, and that portions of 
the country since that time have been almost depopulated by civil 
wars and the persevering hostility of the Chaco tribes. Hides 
and wool — the latter very superior — have been the only exports, 
though the products of the state are as varied as its physical fea- 
tures : wheat and the sugar-cane attain great perfection, but the 
difficulties of transportation have limited their culture to the de- 
mands of a home population. 

Cordova is a depot for the staples of the northwest provinces — 
Catamarca, Mendoza, San Luis, San Juan, Eioja — in transitu for 
Eosario and Santa Fe. In 1855, this trade reached within a frac- 
tion of 1,400,000 arobas, or 1700 tons ; at a cost in transportation, 
by ox-wagons or mules, of 31J cents the aroba, or $25 the ton ; 
and employing more than 6000 carretas (carts), 17,000 mules ; the 
carts transporting 190 arobas each, and mules 14. The trade with 
Mendoza has heretofore been carried on exclusively by mules, at 
the rate of from fifty to sixty dollars the ton. But the spirit of 
progress has reached even this remote region, and a little — very 

* The pocket chronometer had lost its uniform rate, consequently the meridian 
difference between Santa Fe and Cordova, as shown by it, could not be relied on ; 
but we have, through the kindness of Mr. Campbell, the best means of determining 
its longitude, which is deduced from actual measurement, applied to our determin- 
ation of Rosario. 



350 EECEPTION AT COEDOVA. 

little — intercourse with, foreigners would give a great impetus to 
the development of their resources. They had heard of Conosto- 
ga wagons and improved agricultural implements ; during our 
short stay the subject of importing them was agitated, and the 
result was an order to the amount of $50,000, which was filled in 
Boston. I have alluded, in a previous chapter, to the arrival of 
the ship at Eosario with this cargo. 

The route of a rail-road has been surveyed from the city of 
Cordova to Eosario, which will, when completed, not only pro- 
mote enormously the facilities of trade, and do much toward 
strengthening the political fabric, but will rid the country through 
which it passes from the predatory incursions of the Indians. My 
reception was perhaps less cordial here than in other cities of the 
west ; for the Cordovases feared that the navigation of the Salado, 
if established, would divert from their town much of the trade they 
hoped to monopolize. But, if the capital is not to be immediately 
benefited by the opening of that river, the northern and eastern 
parts of the state are ; for the Salado is the southern boundary of 
the Chaco, and its navigation will be more effectual than a hund- 
red military posts in confining the Indian within the limits of his 
legitimate domain. A glance at the map will show that both 
these highways extend through and reach into remote and wide- 
ly-separated districts of the Confederation, and will offer an easy 
transit for valuable products which heretofore, from the distances 
to be traversed and the expense of carriage, have not entered into 
their trade. This road, the first work of the kind in La Plata, is 
considered by the Cordovases — and very justly so, when we re- 
member the past history of the country — a gigantic enterprise. 
The prospect of opening the Salado had awakened even greater 
hopes in other states ; and, as I progressed to its head- waters, 
through Santiago, Salta, and Tucuman, I was greeted enthusias- 
tically, for news of our success in the work below preceded us, al- 
though I often traveled with the speed of the post from city to city. 

Cordova is laid out upon the plan prescribed by the laws of the 
Indies. Straight, narrow streets intersect each other at right an- 
gles, forming quadras (squares) of 150 yards each. The better 
houses are of stone, one-storied, and built around paved courts, 
upon which all the rooms open. Neither in going or returning 
had I much opportunity of seeing the domestic life of its inhabit- 
ants ; but, if I may judge from the appointments of Senor 's 

dwelling, they are in the enjoyment of all the luxuries usual in 



THE JESUIT COLLEGE. 351 

towns of the same size ; indeed, there were manufactured articles 
of other countries, the transportation of which must have cost a 
little fortune. 

I accompanied Madame and her two pretty daughters 

in a paseo to the Alameda, a square of about 150 yards, adorned 
by a miniature lake and fine trees. A band of music and a crowd 
of people, among whom were many handsome women, presented 
an animated scene. The anticipated launching of a small boat 
upon the lake seemed to be a general and absorbing topic of inter- 
est and conversation. 

The principal public buildings are a cathedral and some nine 
or ten churches, to each of which is a square of 150 yards. There 
are also several convents, with grounds inclosed by walls twenty 
feet in height. Many of the Spanish writers allude to the relig- 
ious fervency of the Cor do vases, a character they perhaps still 
merit ; for I was told that the wealth of the churches and con- 
ventual establishments was very great, arising generally from the 
donations and legacies of females. 

The possessions and revenues of the Jesuits in this province 
were vast. Here was their Colegio Maximo, for more than a centu- 
ry the principal seat of learning in La Plata ; and here also was the 
famous library so wantonly destroyed or scattered at the time of 
their expulsion. From their confiscated property the University 
of Buenos Ayres was established, while that of Cordova has dwin- 
dled to a mere provincial school, known as Colegio Montserrat. I 
was conducted through it by one of the professors, and was 'amazed 
at the extent and imposing character of the buildings. After pass- 
ing through a number of empty rooms, we entered the church, 
the interior of which showed the remains of great splendor. The 
ceiling was richly frescoed, and the walls, indeed every available 
space, were covered by pictures, many of them blackened and de- 
faced, less, perhaps, by time than neglect. A " Crucifixion" and 
"Last Supper" were in good order, and works of great merit. 
Around the entire church, in elaborately carved and gilded fram- 
ings, with an armorial bearing and Latin inscription to each, were 
impaneled portraits of distinguished Jesuits. I could learn noth- 
ing of the history of these paintings, which I much regretted. 
Among them there may be, and doubtless are, gems of mediaeval 
art ; for not only was the basin of La. Plata settled by members of 
the noblest families of Spain, who may have carried with them 
many artistic treasures, but the ecclesiastics, the Jesuit missiona- 



352 MANUFACTUKES. 

ries especially, represented every European kingdom, and consid- 
ered no decoration too costly and no wealth too vast to be lavish- 
ed upon their church edifices. Noble monuments of Jesuit in- 
dustry and genius are to be seen in every part of the country. 
In the lovely valley of "Jesus Maria," about fifteen miles from 
the city of Cordova, I visited another establishment, which, after 
their expulsion, passed into the hands of the Franciscans. The 
buildings and gardens are extensive, and in the latter were some 
half dozen English walnut-trees, planted by the fathers, of superb 
size and foliage, their freshness contrasting strangely and impress- 
ively with the dilapidated walls and inclosures. The adjoining 
estancia is now the property of the Colegio Montserrat. 

The aspect of the country surrounding the town of Cordova is 
picturesquely beautiful. Timber and limestone of the finest qual- 
ity abound ; tree-embowered dwellings of excellent construction 
and dazzling whiteness dot the plain, which, sheltered by the first 
steps of the sierras from north and south winds, is not visited by 
severe vicissitudes of temperature, and an admirable system of ir- 
rigation gives to vegetation a luxuriant freshness. The banks of 
the Primero were enlivened by several industrial establishments, 
among which were a large grist-mill, where excellent flour was 
made from wheat grown in the state, and a 'flourishing tannery, 
owned by a citizen of the United States, Dr. John S. Hawling, 
a native of Loudoun County, Virginia. The specimens I saw of 
varied colored moroccos were admirable. Calf, goat, and guanaco 
skins are dressed at this tannery, and a ready sale is found for 
them at Eosario and Buenos Ayres ; indeed, from the difficulty 
of obtaining efficient operatives, Dr. Hawling could not meet the 
increasing demand. His best workmen were foreigners, and sev- 
eral were from the United States. Goat-skins were worth 31J 
cents, kid 6J- cents, calf $1 50 to $2 in the raw state ; manufac- 
tured, they commanded, goat-skins, morocco, from ten to fifteen 
dollars per dozen, kid eight, and calf from five to six apiece. He 
considered the guanaco* hides equal to calf, and they were worth, 
in the raw state, fifty cents ; manufactured, five dollars. 

The bark of the algorroba, the leaf of a shrub, the molle — both 
abundant in the province — and the bark of the cevil, which is 
superior to all, but expensive, as it is brought from Tucuman at 
fifty cents the aroba, are used in this establishment. 

* Vast herds of this animal frequent the plains as well as the highest mountain 
ranges. 



COPPEE MINES. 353 

I visited the market, where, as in Asuncion, women were seat- 
ed upon the ground encircled by vegetables and fruits, while cov- 
ered carts served as the stalls of butchers and poulterers. A well- 
dressed man was going the rounds, presenting to many of the 
country people a small silver crucifix, which they reverently 
touched with their lips, giving the bearer in return a real — 12£ 
cents — perhaps half the earnings of the morning. Neither the 
kiss nor the money were ever withheld, though I observed on 
the countenance of more than one burly butcher an expression, 
as I thought, of dissatisfaction. I afterward asked a citizen the 
meaning of this custom. He replied frankly that it was a great 
imposition, but one frequently practiced to raise money; for a 
Cordovase would starve before refusing this tribute to the symbol 
of Christianity when presented. 

The sierras of Cordova abound in copper, of which Senor Zu- 
verir, the brother of the Minister of Foreign Eelations, gave me 
eight or ten specimens from as many veins upon his own prop- 
erty, some indicating great richness. 

With the prospect of a more stable government these mines 
had, even at the period of my visit, attracted the attention of 
foreign capitalists. In returning from the upper states I met a 
party of miners, principally Englishmen, but recently arrived from 
Lake Superior, who were sent out by Mr. La Fon of Montevideo 
to work copper-lands which he had just purchased in Catamarca 
for $96,000. It is the opinion of many that the mineral treasures 
of the northwestern states are unbounded ; and resident land- 
holders would gladly avail themselves of the energy and experi- 
ence of foreigners in developing them. I believe myself that a 
fine harvest awaits the reaper. 

On the 25th of August, 1855, 1 started for Santiago del Estero, 
distant from Cordova 360 miles, according to the postas of the 
government, of which there are twenty-one, from three to eight 
leagues apart. I must confess that I felt discouraged by the ap- 
pearance of the wretched horses brought out to begin the jour- 
ney ; poor, panting, ungroomed creatures, dragged by the lasso 
from a corral, whither they had been driven after an hour's race 
over the pampas. It seemed impossible that they could make 
twelve miles a day, much less an hour, and this over a hilly coun- 
try. But much as I thought I had -learned, my experience and 
knowledge of the power of horses in La Plata were yet to be 
gained. I complained to the master of the first posta for giv- 

£3 



354 SHEEP-DOGS. 

ing us such miserable animals. He looked most provokingly un- 
moved, saying, 

" JEs buen cavallo, Senor ; es muy manso" (It is a very good 
horse, Sir ; it is very gentle). 

" Muy manso the d — 1 ! what do I want with a horse muy man- 
so? You will never see this again ; it will drop on the road." 

" Muy Men, jSeno?-" (As you please), said the man, bowing com- 
placently. 

This was too much. Off I dashed at half-speed, never breaking 
a gallop for twelve miles. Instead of being broken down or dis- 
tressed, the sorry -looking beasts, after a half hour's rest, were to 
be driven back, I was told by the postillion, at the same speed, and 
then turned out to pasture upon the pampa. At all the postas I 
was detained nearly an hour, while the horses were driven from 
the pastures into the corral to be saddled, and yet, in all this jour- 
ney, I never made less than ten, and commonly twelve miles the 
hour, and often proceeded to the distance of twelve to twenty- 
four miles, at full gallop, on the same horse. 

The face of the country was very unlike the pampas of Santa 
Fe. We were fairly among the low sierras, the connecting links be- 
tween the plains and the Andean ranges. After leaving the calcare- 
ous plain on which stands the capital, we entered upon a granite 
formation. Owing to the drought,* all verdure had disappear- 
ed. From this district our road led into the valley of Jesus Maria, 
which was enameled with wheat-fields, and enlivened by several 
grist-mills in active operation. The herds of cattle were small, 
but the flocks of sheep and goats were large. The sheep were 
guarded only by dogs ; a feature in the pastoral life of this coun- 
try mentioned by Azara, but which I saw here for the first time. 

The protection of the dog is said to be ample. In the morn- 
ing, when about to lead the flock out to pasture, a piece of meatf 
is hung about his neck to prevent all temptation to stray off for 
food, and most faithfully he remains at his post during the whole 
day. The sheep recognize their canine guardian by closing be- 
hind him at the approach of a supposed enemy, and by following 
readily as, punctually at sundown, he leads them to the protection 
of the corral. The dog is trained for this duty by separation, soon 
after its birth, from the bitch, and by being placed upon a nest of 
wool in the sheep-fold, where it receives nourishment three or four 

* The rainy season begins the 1st of October. 

f Azara says if this meat is mutton the dog will never taste it. 



PALMS AND CACTI. 355 

times a day from a ewe. It is afterward castrated, and kept apart 
from other dogs, and even from the children of the family. Thus 
cut off from all connection with its own kind, and from the do- 
mesticity of human association, it affiliates readily with the sheep, 
and, as their shepherd, shows a sagacity and fidelity quite extra- 
ordinary. 

From this district, which abounds in friable limestone of excel- 
lent quality, we entered a sandy, gravelly region, with but poor 
vegetation, save a species of palm, the filamentous tissues of which, 
I am confident, would prove an excellent raw material for cordage, 
canvas, or other coarse fabrics. 

Near Divisidero, 75 miles from Cordova, grow vast quantities 
of a gigantic cactus, which bears a rich, luscious yellow fruit, much 
prized by the people of the country, who make from it a delicious 
jelly, dark as molasses. 

At San Pedro, the next posta, were clustered a few neat and 
well-constructed houses, around a small church, recently built ; 
and immediately in the vicinity were thriving orchards of apple 
and peach trees. The soil of the neighboring country was sandy, 
gravelly, with but little cultivation, and its predominant growth 
was an inferior species of palm. 

I reached Eosario, the next halting-place, distant nine miles, in 
fifty minutes. Here the usual empty prison-like room assigned 
to travelers was made quite comfortable by water and towels sent 
to us by a lady of the posta. 

From Eosario we traveled through a poor, uncultivated, and un- 
dulating country to Changa, a pueblo of twenty or thirty houses, 
and from thence to El Paso de Tigre, where we spent the night. 
At this last place was a hideous object, the corpse of a man who 
had died from the poison, of a spider. He was bitten upon the 
lip, and the swelling was so excessive that it was impossible to 
distinguish his features. 

The next posta, of 18 miles, was made in one hour and forty 
minutes ; the road passing the whole distance over a table-land 
of limestone. From a wild, rugged ravine, intersected by a small 
stream, it next entered a desolate region, without native or cul- 
tured vegetation, save a few thorny scrubby bushes. Granite and 
coarse sand were its prominent geognostic features. 

We had made 165 miles from the capital, and were near the 
dividing line of the states of Cordova and Santiago del Estero ; 
but where or what direction it took none could tell. 



356 THE DULCE. 

From this point the country was hilly, but fertile, with tine 
fields and noble forests of quebracho bianco and algorroba. I 
saw few horned cattle, but large flocks of goats and sheep brows- 
ing upon every hill-side. On reaching our resting-place for the 
night we had made during the day 72 miles, and yet had been 
detained at least one half the time at the different postas, thus 
averaging twelve miles the hour, without feeling particularly 
fatigued or observing any sign of failing on the part of the mis- 
erable-looking horses. The promise of an extra real to the postil- 
lion will always insure an average speed of ten miles the hour 
throughout the day. 

The Posta del Monte is half a mile from the Eiver Dulce, there 
known as the Saladillo, for it flows along the edge of the Salinas, 
or travesia, a vast zone of saliferous sand, extending over parts of 
four states — Cordova, Santiago, Eioja, and Catamarca. 

This arid district must nevertheless possess some nutritious 
herbage, for the few horses and cattle that we saw were in re- 
markably fine condition; but in passing its eastern extremity, 
where it has a width of not more than twelve miles, we saw only 
a few stunted succulent plants, and a dense growth of salsole, 
which extended several miles; the earth being white with in- 
crustations of salt and pure saltpetre. 

The general direction of the Dulce was formerly south-east 
from its source to the Lake Porongas; but in 1823, in conse- 
quence of a great accumulation of drift-wood, which obstructed 
its passage about eighteen miles from Santiago, during a periodical 
rise it broke through the banks; and taking a circuitous course 
south-west along the borders of the travesia, became so strongly 
impregnated with saliferous deposit as to forfeit all right to a 
name which formerly indicated the purity of its waters. 

Unaware of these physical changes, and knowing the Dulce 
only from the position heretofore assigned it by geographers, I 
applied to the master of this posta to learn something of the char- 
acteristics of the Saladillo, which I supposed to be one of the 
many rivers that flow from the eastern slopes of the Andes, and 
are lost by evaporation or in the swamps and lagoons of the pam- 
pas, lie could give me no information whatever. He knew it 
only as the Saladillo, " which begins to rise in October, and reaches 
the highest point in April, when it overflows the lands immediate- 
ly adjacent." In fording it I found a depth of from three to four 
feet, with banks on either side ten feet above the water-level. 



THE QUICHUA LANGUAGE. 357 

Notwithstanding the indifference and ignorance of the post- 
master as to the course of the Dulce, its new direction had com- 
pletely changed the character of a large district of country ; a 
district which, once rich in pasture-lands, teeming with luxuriant 
crops and a considerable population, is now comparatively a ster- 
ile desert. 

Subsequently, in conversing upon this change with the Gover- 
nor of Santiago, a man of great intelligence, he dwelt hopefully 
upon a project in view for restoring the river to its old channel, 
and he told me that nothing but their intestine troubles had caused 
a postponement of the work. I suggested to him another enterprise, 
which would be attended with very little expense ; an examina- 
tion of the Dulce for boat navigation, from the central districts of 
Santiago to Lake Porongas, and from that point to the Salado. 

After passing this river I heard for the first time, at the Posta 
Chilque, the Quichua language. It is spoken in only one section 
of Santiago, that is, north of the Dulce, in a region of country oc- 
cupied principally by Mestizos ; while south of the same stream 
French or English would be as comprehensible to the people. 
But a more extraordinary fact still, in connection with the range 
of this language, is that though it comes from the north — from 
the Empire of the Incas — it is not spoken or understood in Jujuy, 
Salta, or Tucuman. 

The Jesuits published a grammar and dictionary of it, but the 
only book I saw was an octavo volume of six hundred pages,* 
presented to me by General Taboado. It was published in Lima 
in 1631, and contains, with instruction to the curates for adminis- 
tering to the natives baptism and confirmation, the catechism, 
prayers, and offices of the Eomish Church. 

From Chilque to the Pueblo Atamisque the country was cov- 
ered with fine forests of quebracho bianco and quebracho Colora- 
do, but beyond this to Palumbala it presented the aspect of an 
arid waste ; the dust rose in clouds, as from a Macadamized and 
much-traveled road. The soil, a brown loam, was apparently good, 
but there was no grass, not a shrub or tree, to give momentary 
shelter from the burning rays of the sun : yet this dreary district 
was part of the once lovely, fruitful basin of the Dulce. I can 
not offer a better illustration of the importance of irrigation in 
these regions, only visited by periodical rains. 

* " Ritual formulario e institucion de Carets, para administrar a los Nattirales de 
este Reyno, los Santos Sacramentos del Baptismo, Confirmacion, Eucaristia" &c. 



358 



A MERRY-MAKING. 



We stopped for the night at Perqui, near the little village of 
Loreto, having made a day's ride of seventy miles. 

A merry-making was on foot ; the daughter of the post-master 
was gaily attired, and tuned np a rude harp, upon which she was 
to play for her expected guests to dance ; but the master himself 
was in his cups, and declared he could give us no supper, for the 
flocks had not come up. A ride of seventy miles without dinner 
was no excuse for our not joining the dancers, for beaux were 
needed. I could not agree with him ; so, drawing out a reserve 
of bread and a bottle of milk from our saddle-bags, we made a 
supper and retired to hide cots, with the heavens for a canopy* 




TROPA OF CARKETAS KNCAMPED; 



"We were soon disturbed by an arrival, a tropa of ten carretas 
from Eosario, bound for Tucuman. This was a welcome event 
to the dancers ; the tropero and his companions, fine dashing-look- 
ing fellows, were soon whirling in the waltz, caring neither for 
supper nor rest after a long day's travel. The passion of these 
people, both men and women, for the dance is marked. Within 
doors it supersedes all other amusements ; and as every village 
and posta has its rude guitarist or harpist, and the only refresh- 

* Tn traveling in La Plata I rarely slept in a house. 



COST OF TRANSPORTATION. 359 

ment, a sip of cana, is readily obtainable, to give a ball is with 
them but to collect a few neighbors. 

From the tropero I learned that each of his ten wagons carried 
180 arobas, for which the charge from Tucuman to Eosario was 
$1 25 the aroba ; for the return trip, 75 cents for every wagon. 
Several relays of six oxen are required. He spoke of this season 
as one particularly severe for the animals on account of the scarcity 
of water, the unusual drought having dried up the pasturage. In 
these unwieldy wagons the produce of the upper states is carried 
to Eosario, and all foreign goods are, in return, thus forwarded to 
the interior. The time occupied in the trip, including halts and 
incidental delays, is from ten to twelve months. 

The morning after the ball we were up before the sun. The 
master of the posta was quite sobered by a long sleep, and accept- 
ed gratefully an offer of verba, for I traveled with a supply for 
our own use ; and on this occasion a mate prepared by Cornelius 
was the only refreshment preparatory to a ride of eight leagues. 
Drunkenness is a rare vice in La Plata, although the native liquor, 
cana, is the most potent I have ever tasted ; but the people in all 
parts of the basin and in every class of life eagerly seek a mate. 
No Chinaman sips his tea and no Turk his coffee with more en- 
joyment. After taking it in the morning, I could ride for nearly 
the whole day without food and without feeling troubled by 
hunger. 

At midday we reached the town of Santiago del Estero, sixty 
miles, having changed horses but twice. "We met on the road 
another tropa of twenty wagons, bound to Tucuman. 

Eighteen miles from Santiago we again forded the Dulce, and 
found its waters as fresh and sweet as those of a mountain spring ; 
depth, three feet ; width, quarter of a mile ; course, southwest. 

We passed that morning, in our ride from Perqui, a country 
fertile and admirably diversified by wood and arable lands ; the 
wheat-fields were fine, especially as we approached the river, where 
the yield is sixty almudes to one of seed. 

The forests of quebracho and algorroba are large, and the mimo- 
sas contribute almost as much to the comfort of man, in these 
western states, as the palm in other parts of the basin. One spe- 
cies of algorroba is unequaled as fuel, or as a material for char- 
coal ; and the bark, foliage, and fruit of others enter into the do- 
mestic economy of every household. The fruits of the "blanca" 
and " negra" are much prized both for preserving and drying ; in 



360 



TABLE OF DISTANCES. 



the latter state they are not unlike dried peaches : and fresh from 
the tree, sell readily at thirty-seven to fifty cents the almude. 

The following are the postas between Cordova and Santiago 
del Estero, with the distances established by the respective prov- 
inces — on which is based the charge for horses and postillions — 
and the time occupied by us in the travel from one to the other. 
The charges are not uniformly the same in all the provinces. In 
some they are, for each saddle-horse, half a real — six and a quar- 
ter cents — per league, and double this sum for a postillion and 
cargaro horse ; while in others the charge for the latter is one and 
a half reals. 



•{ 



2d day, 



3d day. 



4th day. 



5th day. ^ 



I 



(From Cordova to Posta Moyen, in 
" Moyen to Guerra . . . 
Guerra to Salitra . . , 
Salitra to Las Talas . 
Las Talas to Divisidero 
Divisidero to Yinta Guasi 
Yinta Guasi to El Sala 
El Sala to San Pedro . 
San Pedro to Rosario . 
Kosario to Las Piedras 
Las Piedras to Paso del Tigre 
Paso del Tigre to Porto Suelo 
Porto Suelo to Orquetas . 
Orquetas to San Antonio . 
San Antonio to Guardia . 
Guardia to Pueste del Monte 
Pueste del Monte to Chilque 

Cliilque to 

to Palumbala 

Palumbala to Perqui 
Perqui to La Egira 
La Egira to Cordero 
Cordero to Santiago 





Hours. 


Min. 


Leagues. 


. . 


00 


5^ 






1 


30 


5 









30 


2- 






3 


10 


8 






. 1 


15 


5 


Postas 




2 


15 


1 


>in Cor- 







50 


3 


dova. 




2 


00 


6 









52 


3 






1 


45 


6 




1 


1 


15 


4 




) 


1 


40 


6 : 






1 


05 


4 









40 


2 






1 


35 


5 






2 
1 

2 
1 


30 
30 
15 

30 


t 

4 
1 
6 


Postas 
-in San- 
tiago. 




1 


25 


6 






2 


40 


8 






1 


10 


4 






1 


20 


4, 





SANTIAGO. 361 



CHAPTEE XXI. 

Santiago. — Government House. — Trade and Population. — No Hotels. — Pair of 
Gloves. — Visit to the Governor. — Don Taboado. — The Boat. — Quintas and 
Fruits. — Chills at Santiago. — The Pic-nic. — The Dulce. — Bed of the Salado. — 
The Saladillo.— TheFlor del aria.— The Ulua.— Luxuriant Foliage.— The Slevre. 
— Bees. — TheToisimi. — Yana. — Moso Moso. — Mestiso Quilaya. — Cani. — Quella 
and Alframisqui. — The Eyrobana. — Wax. — The Cochineal. — Lassoing a Mule. — 
Price of Mules. — Launching the Boat. — A Bivouac. — Arrival at Salvador. — 
Banks of the Salado. — Birds. — Estancia Figarra. — " Que Animal." — Arrival at 
Matara. — The Dance and the little Child. — The Priests. — Incursions of the 
Chaco Indians. — List of Trees. — Quebracho. — Algorroba. — Yinal. — Quilin. — 
Chaiia. — Mistol. — Uinay. — Tala. — Puna. — Gumi. — Qnimel. — Cardon. 

Santiago, the capital of the state, stands some half mile from 
the Dulce, in latitude 27° 46' 20" south, longitude 64° 22' 15" 
west,* and contains about five thousand inhabitants. It present- 
ed an aspect of decay. Deserted, dilapidated houses and silent 
streets only offered the pleasant enlivenment of business with the 
periodical arrival or departure of tropas. The public buildings 
are a government-house and three churches. One of the latter 
and many dwellings are built of tapiaj; in that district of country 
— a perishable material, from the strong impregnation of the soil 
with saltpetre. Buildings and inclosures of it were crumbling 
under the action of the elements, and yet a church in Santa Fe, 
constructed of this same material, looked as if it might stand for 
ages : indeed it had become, by time and exposure, as hard as 
granite. The government house is a substantial brick structure, 
with spacious apartments, some of which were occupied as public 
offices: the reception-room was well furnished and hung with 
pictures, many of them portraits of distinguished men of the re- 
public. 

Six hundred and fifty miles from Rosario, and five hundred 
and ninety from Santa Fe — the outlets of this country upon the 
Parana — distracted by political factions, and devastated by the 
forays of Indians, it creates no astonishment to hear that San- 
tiago has retrograded since the establishment of independence ; 

* Determined by meridional difference from Cordova, with pocket-chronometer 
rated at the latter place. 

f Enormous adobes, several feet in length by some two or three in thickness. 



362 GOVERNOR TABOADO. 

and yet it has a population of 50,000 souls, distinguished in La 
Plata as industrious and enterprising. As its resources are great, 
we may fairly conclude that it only awaits a development which 
it must receive under the Confederation and the administration 
of its present governor, Don Manuel Taboado, who is a man of 
integrity and energy. He was ill at the time I arrived ; but my 
reception by Don Juan F. Borjas, the gobernador delegado (deputy 
governor), was marked by civility. Apartments, for there are no 
hotels in Santiago, were assigned us at the Government House, 
where, as the guest of the state, not only was every want antici- 
pated by servants in constant attendance, but all the luxuries and 
comforts that the town afforded were unostentatiously supplied. 
I was afraid to attempt the purchase of the smallest article, for it 
was promptly furnished, and the money invariably returned. I 
sent Cornelius for a pair of gloves ; he brought me some of ex- 
cellent quality, together with the money which I had given him. 

"But how is this? "Why did you not pay for them?" I in- 
quired. 

"You can pay for nothing here, Sir," was the reply. 

I called at the governor's private residence, and found him con- 
fined to his bed. It was quite unnecessary to explain the object 
of my visit to Santiago. He anticipated an exploration of the 
Salado with impatience, as a work the success of which would 
insure the prosperity of all the western states. I told him that 
a raft or boat of some kind was necessary. 

" There is a skiff eighteen feet by three in the Eio Dulce. Will 
it answer your purpose ?" he kindly suggested. 

" But we are forty or fifty miles from the Salado." 

"The boat shall be transported to the river by ox-cart, and 
I will follow with a military escort. If agreeable to you, my 
brother, General Antonio, will accompany you, for he speaks the 
Quichua, and may be useful in communicating with the people." 

Such were the encouraging offers of Governor Taboado. 

While awaiting the return of the general, who was at his es- 
tancia, I accepted the hospitalities of several families of the city, 
and visited some of the really pretty quintas that dot its envi- 
rons. Notwithstanding the severe drought of six month's dura- 
tion, the alfalfa, or alfa, was most luxuriant; for the lands gen- 
erally were well irrigated by the waters of the Dulce, which was 
conducted through them by a main and lateral canals. A quinta 
(country seat) of ten acres pays a low tax of two dollars per an- 



A PIC-NIC— DEPARTURE. 363 

num for the use of this water, which, is let into the canals at in- 
tervals of two weeks. 

Peach, rig, pomegranate, and orange trees were growing vigor- 
ously, side by side, in the same garden, and bore, I was told, in 
their season, fruit in great perfection. The fig-tree attains a con- 
siderable size ; some were ten inches in diameter, through the 
trunk, and from thirty to forty feet in height. Cotton is peren- 
nial, and yields abundantly for ten years ; but I saw only a few 
straggling plants, for the cultivation has entirely ceased since the 
introduction of the manufactured article. 

The salubrity of the climate is unequaled. Fevers of a malig- 
nant type are unknown. In the whole state there is neither phy- 
sician nor apothecary ; for here, as in Paraguay, the indigenous 
vegetation furnishes remedios for all diseases known. One day 
during my stay I was ill, and certainly thought I had a chill ; but 
this was considered impossible. 

"Ah, no, Seiior,"said my visitors, earnestly, "the ague is un- 
known in Santiago." 

We were invited by several prominent citizens to a pic-nic at a 
short distance from the town on the banks of the Dulce. Our 
conveyance was the governor's little boat, in which we pushed 
off, and made all sail up stream ; but the craft, governed more by 
the current than sail or rudder, would run bows into the bank on 
one side, and stern on to a flat the other, until, heartily weary, 
we landed, and, with our guns, followed the picturesque banks of 
the river. An ample collation was afterward spread under the 
shade of an algorroba. Among other luxuries provided, and 
they were many, was English ale, which is so greatly relished in 
every part of La Plata. British enterprise had sent it over the 
ocean and up the river to Eosario, from whence it had been 
brought six hundred and fifty miles across the pampas in wag- 
ons. 

On the 8th of September, the day fixed for our departure, the 
boat, lashed upon an ox-cart, was dispatched across the country ; 
and we followed in the governor's carriage, a barouche drawn by 
four horses, each mounted by a postillion. We forded the Dulce, 
about a mile from the town. At that point its width was four 
hundred yards ; depth four feet, which, by marks on the banks, 
I knew to be ten feet below its highest rise. The water was per- 
fectly fresh and sweet, although the constant recurrence of the 
efflorescences of saltpetre, showed how strongly the adjacent 



364 RIVER CHANGES. 

lands were impregnated. Before reaching the river, we passed a 
belting of sandy hillocks, irregularly thrown up, as if by the wind, 
and partially covered with vegetation. They reminded me strik- 
ingly of the sand-dunes of our east coast. Can it be possible that 
these lands, more than seven hundred miles from the ocean, once 
bordered a great estuary ? 

Having left the capital at rather a late hour of the day, we 
stopped for the night at the estancia of a friend of General Tabo- 
ado. Although it was one of the better order of country houses, 
our cots were placed out of doors ; for to sleep in the open air 
seems to be the universal habit of all classes in good weather, and 
so deliciously pure is the atmosphere that no apprehension of risk 
to the health need be entertained. 

On the 9th, at an early hour, after having, as usual, taken mate, 
we continued our journey, and soon passed the ox-cart, lumbering 
along slowly with the exploring craft. Three leagues from Estan- 
cia Taboado we crossed a wide flat, which twenty years ago was 
the bed of the Salado ; now that river courses four leagues farther 
north of it. The structure of the land is promotive of these 
changes, but the direct cause is found in the undisturbed accumu- 
lation of drift-wood which at certain points so entirely obstructs 
the channel that, during the season of flood, the waters assume a 
new direction. Again, they may be ascribed to the barricados, 
the primitive bridges of the country, which are formed by fell- 
ing trees on both banks; these, falling in the river, collect all 
floating material, and in time quite a substantial passage-way is 
formed. 

The Saladillo, now called a branch of the Salado, though a few 
years since it was the principal channel, separates from the main 
stream ten miles above the Estancia Taboado, and unites with it 
twenty-seven miles below, forming an island thirty-six miles in 
length by from three to six in breadth, which has a population of 
3600 souls, and furnishes six hundred fighting men. It is well 
wooded, and the soil, a dark alluvium, yields fine crops of wheat 
and corn. 

On reaching the estancia, we had passed a distance of fifty-three 
miles from the capital, over a sandy level country ; some districts 
of it are populous and well cultivated in wheat and corn, while 
others were intersected by fine forests. In riding through the 
woodlands I saw some of the noblest forms of the mimosas, such 
as the white and black algorrobas, the thorny vinal, the quilin, 



VEGETABLE AND ANIMAL LIFE. 365 

and chana ; also the uinay, with its floral barometer,* the jumi,f 
and a variety of other shrubs, which, if less useful, yet enriched 
the woods by their clusters of bright flowers. Many a tree was 
inwrapped and festooned with the most delicately fragrant and 
beautiful of all epiphytes, pointed out to me as the flor del aria, 
and by the climbing cactus ulua, with its creamy white and trum- 
pet-shaped flowers. The cardon of the toisimi bee, the tuna of 
the cochineal, and other gigantic cacti covered the plains, all so 
luxuriant and verdant in this first- spring month that it was diffi- 
cult to realize a periodic stagnation. It was a striking feature, 
and one that could not fail to impress a casual observer or the 
most careless mind, that all the powers of this nature were made 
tributary to the wants of the people of the country ; every tree, 
every shrub and flower, bark, foliage, and fruit, seemed to enter 
into their domestic economy. 

If there was less affluence in the animal life, it nevertheless of- 
fered new and varied objects of interest. I shot with my carbine 
a llevre, the hare of La Plata, and the first that I had seen ; it was 
of a glossy bright squirrel-gray, with yellowish-white belly, and 
measured two feet from nose to tail. I also brought down a par- 
tridge, bearing a strong family resemblance to the large bird of 
Entre Eios, but in certain points differing very materially. It 
is larger, the neck much longer, the legs shorter, and upon its 
head is a crest of a few long feathers ; its eggs, about the size of 
those of a hen, are a rich dark green, and as smooth as the finest 
and most highly -glazed porcelain. Scarcely had we gotten be- 
yond hearing of the shrieking chuna, a quail we had seen in Para- 
guay and Corrientes, when we were saluted by the shrill notes of 
another bird of the same family, but differing in size and plumage. 

The bee abounds, and eight distinct species are recognized : the 
tiosimi, yana, moso moso, mestiso quilaya, cani, quella, and alpa- 
misqui. These Indian names are significant of the characteristics 
of these industrious and useful insects. The people of the country 
revel in the rich supplies they afford of a delicious and invigorat- 
ing food. I ate of several of these varieties of honey, and pre- 
ferred above all others that of the toisimi bee, known as the car- 
don honey ; for it is only found in the trunk of that cactus. Ex- 
pressed from the comb, it becomes after a few months perfectly 

* The country people note the opening and closing of the flower of the uinay as 
an unfailing indication of atmospheric changes, 
f From which potash is obtained. 



366 VARIETIES OF HONEY. 

white and granulated; and when eaten with bread or parched 
corn* is considered delicious and sustaining. The Santiaganians 
prefer the cardon, but they also highly prize the lechiguana, 
the product of a bee which makes its hive in trees, and feeds 
upon the first spring flowers ; for the flavor of the honey depends 
upon the food of the insect ; the comb looks as if formed of the 
finest tissue paper, and has no admixture of wax. Myriads 
of bees exist in the Chaco, bordering the Salado ; and large par- 
ties, provided with wide sacks and a provision of parched corn, 
cross over in the month of December to collect the produce of the 
wild hives. They take very good care, however, not to venture 
beyond the woods and plain immediately adjacent to the river; 
for with the Indians also honey is a staple article of food, and they 
prefer above all other varieties one that is found in that region — 
the eyrobana, which is the deposit of a bee that feeds upon the 
fragrant ybirapaye. Forlorn, emaciated invalids join these par- 
ties, and, after an absence of a few weeks, return fat, well, and so 
changed that it is like the working of a miracle. This is ascribed 
to the properties of the wild honey, which, with parched corn, is 
for the time the only food of those engaged in these expeditions. 

A considerable quantity of wax is still sold to the village mer- 
chants, and finds its way to the neighboring provinces ; but the 
trade in this article must have diminished ; for, according to Aza- 
ra, ten thousand pounds were collected annually in Santiago be- 
fore the Eevolution. The process of preparing it for sale is simple 
enough. The comb is boiled in water, which is frequently stirred, 
and as the wax rises to the surface, a bunch of twigs is immersed, 
to which it adheres; it is then bleached by a daily exposure to 
the action of the sun for some weeks. 

Cochineal was, before the Eevolution, a staple export from San- 
tiago ; ten thousand pounds having been sent annually to Chili 
and Peru. Now it is gathered only for home consumption, and 
may be readily recognized in the brilliant scarlet ponchos and 
coarse woolen goods of the country. I believe that any amount 
could be exported ; for the cactus opuntia, or tuna, upon which it 
is found, abounds in every part of the state. The Jesuits discov- 
ered that the quality of the cochineal was improved and the 
quantity increased by cultivating the tuna. 

The Estancia Taboado embraced several square leagues; but 
this was a very small part of the landed estate of a family of three 

* There is a small corn or maize planted expressly for this purpose. 



MULE-BREAKING. 367 

brothers and two sisters, who hold their property of every de- 
scription in community of interest. There, for the first time, I 
saw mules broken for service ; the general having, at the time of 
my visit, just received a lot from Buenos Ayres. The mule was 
lassoed and dragged forth from the corral to a short post, around 
which the lasso was skillfully wound, as the animal attempted to 
escape. A cloth was then thrown over the eyes, and the head 
drawn close to the post ; one man gave the ear a violent twitch, 
another girded on the ricado with great force, and fixed a very 
primitive hide bridle, without a bit, to the lower jaw. The do- 
mador, equipped with enormous spurs, then sprung upon the ri- 
cado; and at the same moment, the mule released from the post, 
and relieved of the bandage over his eyes, dashed off with arched 
back, head between his legs, leaping, bounding, kicking, or turn- 
ing as on a pivot. All was of no avail in unseating the rider, 
who, at every vicious movement, only plunged his enormous 
spurs deeper into the creature's side. At last the battle ended ; 
they re-entered the corral ; the man cool and unmoved, the mule 
utterly exhausted and completely under the control of the rider. 

This operation is severe; but after a few trials the beast is 
tamed, and soon learns to associate the will of its rider with the 
rein. The domador is, as may be supposed, an important charac- 
ter in all pastoral establishments ; and without appearing to exer- 
cise any great muscular force, his feats of horsemanship and his 
skill in breaking the wildest animals are marvelous. 

These mules at Estancia Taboado were purchased in Buenos 
Ayres for five and a half dollars apiece, and brought to Santiago 
by a capitaz, assisted by several peons. Forty dollars to the capi- 
taz, twelve to each peon, and one per mule, were the expenses on 
the road. On the day after their arrival the general sold two 
thirds of them at eighteen dollars apiece. The animals, when 
fattened and tamed, are driven to Salta and Bolivia, where they 
are sold at trebled and quadrupled prices. The demand for them 
is constant, and it will always continue to be a profitable trade, as 
they furnish the only means of transportation across the Andes 
for the produce and merchandise of Bolivia to and from her Pa- 
cific port, Cobija. At the period of my visit horned cattle in 
Santiago were worth from nine to ten dollars, and hides four. 

Although the, population and exports of Cordova are greater 
than those of Santiago, I observed in the latter state that the cul- 
tivation of the soil 'was pursued with greater skill; indeed, this is 



368 FIRST BOAT ON THE SALADILLO. 

more of an agricultural than a grazing country, and one in which 
I met, almost for the first time in the Argentine Confederation, a 
laboring class, industrious, robust, and civil to strangers. But 
without a market for his produce, the Santiaganian farmer has no 
stimulus to do more than meet the demands of the inhabitants of 
his own state. 

September 11$, 1855. Our little craft arrived in the afternoon, 
and was launched upon the Saladillo in the presence of a number 
of admiring but greatly astonished peons ; for in the whole coun- 
try it was the only boat, and the first within the memory of liv- 
ing man, that had floated upon the waters of the Salado. 

September \4dh. All preparations were completed, and having 
made the necessary astronomical observations, which placed the 
Estancia Taboado in latitude 27° 20' 25" south, longitude 64° 08' 
25" west, I commenced my exploration, accompanied in the little 
boat by General Taboado, Acting Lieutenant Murdaugh, Cornelius, 
and three peons. 

As the governor had ordered the commander of the river dis- 
tricts to afford any required assistance, we found parties of men 
at different points ready and willing to remove all obstructions. 
The united labor of ten, fifteen, and even twenty men was some- 
times required to cut a passage through the barricados (bridges) 
of trees; but the peons, singing and joking, with axe in hand, 
dashed into the river, and, with the water sometimes up to their 
waists, worked with a vigor and will that quite astonished me. 
It can not be supposed that these laborers comprehended fully 
the importance of opening this channel, but they evidently enter- 
tained a high respect for their governor and general, and were 
anxious to please them. At every stopping-place crowds of men, 
women, and children came down to the river with offerings of 
chickens, eggs, and honey. 

By sunset we had accomplished sixteen miles, and finding at 
this point but twelve inches water, I determined to make a pas- 
sage across the island to the main stream. In a short time — for I 
would listen to no manana (to-morrow) — an ox-cart was moving 
overland freighted with the little craft, and we bivouacked around 
a comfortable fire, for the nights were yet quite cool. Eefreshed 
by a mate and a supper of asado, cut from a bullock which was 
a few minutes before grazing upon the adjacent pastures, with 
ricado for pillow, feet to the fire, and an aspect of the heavens 
above us that would have delighted any cloud-weary reader of 



EIVEE NAVIGATION. 369 

the starry worlds, we dozed away, thinking the soft grass no bad 
bed. 

At dawn the next morning, the 15th, we started across the isl- 
and, and, taking a southeast direction, passed several villages, and 
found the country fertile and populous. 

At Salvador, four leagues from our stopping-place of the 14th, we 
reached the Salado, and again launched our little boat. The width 
of the river at this point was fifty feet ; at high water it is one 
hundred and fifty. It had a depth of twelve inches on the shoal- 
est places, and a current of one mile the hour. The banks rise 
abruptly from twenty to thirty feet, and were belted by the finest 
algorrobas, vinals, and sauses that I had yet seen in La Plata. 
From this vicinity is taken the alcaparosa, a metalline substance 
which, when boiled with the leaves of the molle, yields an une- 
qualed black dye. Quantities of cochineal are also collected here. 

Making four miles an hour we reached the mouth of the Sala- 
dillo in one hour and a half. After passing this point the river 
becomes wider, less tortuous ; and the obstructions were only 
such as could be readily removed by half a dozen men armed 
with axes and lassos. We passed a chain of sweet- water lakes 
about half a mile north, named, as they appeared, Salvador, Mir- 
avilla, Tigeroa. A small branch of the Salado flows into this lat- 
ter, and again reunites with the main river some distance below 
by a fall of ten feet.* 

We saw vast numbers of the charata. The same bird is found 
on the Paraguay and Yermejo, where it is known as the " gallina 
del monte." Its note is very peculiar. When startled it makes 
a shrill shrieking cry, which is instantaneously taken up and 
responded to by many others, as if to give warning of the 
approach of an enemy. At Cruz Bajada we stopped at sunset, 
and around a good fire, kindled upon the banks, passed the 
night. 

September 16th. As our crew, who never before saw a boat, were 
"not very skillful navigators, we were obliged to stop for an hour 
or two at the Estancia Figarra and repair the rudder, which had 
been injured in running foul of a snag. Here we obtained a 
meridian altitude, which determined the bajada (landing) of this 
estancia to be latitude 27° 42' 24" south. From this point the 
river increased in width, depth, and .current; the adjacent coun- 
try was fertile and comparatively populous. We passed several 

* At the state of the river when I examined it. 

24 



370 ASTONISHING THE NATIVES. 

estancias, the largest of which, Candelaria, is quite a village. 
Having made thirty miles, we stopped for the night at the Estan- 
cia Catchi, where we feasted on cardon honey and popped corn,* 
sent ns by the master of the estate. 

September 17th. The general course of the river was southeast, 
with, as yet, no obstructions but those arising from fallen trees, 
through which a passage was cut for the boat. Its characteristics 
and those of the adjacent country were very unvarying. The 
surface-soil of the latter is a rich vegetable deposit of from two to 
four feet, resting upon an argillaceous formation of remarkable 
uniformity. For two days I had traced a stratum of green clay, 
without a break in it, from three to six inches thick, and contain- 
ing innumerable minute shells : it varied in distance below the 
surface from fifteen to twenty feet, and was at that time just 
above the water-level. 

The appearance of the Conquistadores among the aborigines 
could scarcely have excited a more lively curiosity than did our 
little exploring craft. At the Estancia Lojlo, where stand a 
chapel and several dwelling-houses, a number of people had as- 
sembled from far and near to see the boat. It was the wonder of 
the country. A horse, mule, ox-cart, or hide balsa were the only 
modes of conveyance familiar to these simple people, who would 
laugh, look at the skiff, then at each other, and exclaim ' Que 
animal P Several times, in rounding a bend of the river, we 
came suddenly upon parties of men and women fishing or wash- 
ing, who had heard nothing of the expedition. At sight of us 
they would dart off into the woods as if pursued by a legion of 
evil spirits. The general would call out some reassuring words 
in their own language, when one would timidly appear, then an- 
other. How they laughed and gesticulated, and what a volume 
of rich Quichua they poured out in explaining how, at our ap- 
proach, none had stopped for a second look ; for one had taken 
the boat for a huge beast, others supposed that we were hostile 
Indians in a novel disguise. As we advanced, numerous other 
visitors, who, like those at the Estancia Lojlo, had heard of us 
and had traveled from a distance, brought with them offerings of 
honey, popped corn, eggs, and chickens. 

We saw quite a number of estancias which, from their dilapi- 
dated and abandoned condition, showed that the marauding In- 

* A small grain is cultivated expressly for this use. When roasted it bursts and 
expands to tenfold its original size. With wild honey it is delicious. 



MATAEA. 371 

dians had carried their forays and depredations even to this high 
point. 

September 18th. Our first obstruction was a barricado, where we 
found twenty men, with axes and lassos, busily cutting a passage. 
They were working with a will, though up to their waists in wa- 
ter. At 3 P.M. we arrived at Matara, having accomplished that 
day twenty -three miles. 

To this point we had made ninety-six miles from Salvador, and 
had found no grave difficulties in the navigation. The banks 
rose from twenty to thirty feet above the water, and at that sea- 
son showed no indications of recent washing, such as might arise 
from a strong current. The course of the river generally was 
marked by a wooded belting, and the adjacent country was pop- 
ulous and well cultivated. 

Should the Salado prove navigable to the Parana, Matara must, 
from its central position, be a place of some trade. It is about 
three quarters of a mile, west-northwest, from the point at which 
we landed, and is, by our determination, in latitude 28° 07' 14" 
south, and longitude 63° 43' 15" west. It has now a population 
of only five hundred souls, although twenty years ago it was a 
place of consideration, and the residence of some of the wealthiest 
families of the province. The repeated incursions of the Indians, 
and the constant apprehension in which even the inhabitants of 
the town lived, have caused the abandonment of estancias, and 
the removal of families to other parts of the state. 

September 19th. The weather was too cloudy for observations 
when we arrived at Matara ; and, being anxious to determine its 
position satisfactorily, I accepted the commandante's offer of hos- 
pitality, and took possession of one of the many deserted houses 
of the place. 

It was the conceit of an old Italian painter,* in his picture of 
the " Judgment Day," to represent men and women entering 
heaven with the faces of infants. At Matara I witnessed a more 
curious illustration of the idea that "of such is the kingdom of 
heaven." On the evening of our arrival we were invited to a 
dance. The ball-room was a well-swept,; well-beaten yard ; the 
orchestra a bench ; and its one musician a harpist, whose instru- 
ment was quite as primitive as that of the maiden at Posta Per- 
qui. The guests were the inhabitants of the town generally ; the 
refreshments a jug of cana, from which all took a pull in turn. 
* Fra Angelico, of Fiesole. 



372 THE ANGEL'S DANCE. 

The occasion of the f3te was the death of an infant. The child 
had been taken to form one of the choir of rejoicing angels, and 
the parents must manifest their gratitude to the Omnipotent. So 
friends were summoned ; and with the little body gayly attired, 
and placed upon a platform covered with fragrant flowers, moth- 
er, father, and relatives danced merrily, as upon a festive occa- 
sion. General Taboado told me that the body would be borrow- 
ed by the intimate friends for other dances, until, touched by de- 
cay, it would be " sown in dishonor" to be " raised in glory." 

Our visit to the town was also the occasion of a ball, given the 
next evening, in the inclosure fronting the house which I occu- 
pied. The arrangements were not more ambitious than those of 
the " angel's dance." The guests were barefooted generally ; and 
our ball-room was lighted by tallow candles stuck on boards. 
This was primitive enough ; but there was no vulgarity. Drunk- 
enness never disgraces these festive meetings, and the presence of 
a rowdy inebriate would have caused more sensation here than 
in more civilized regions. Men and women, utterly uneducated 
as most of them were, had yet a native dignity of manner that 
imparted something of elegance even to a Salado ball. Here, 
bordering on the wilds of the Chaco, where the party may be 
broken up at any moment by the war-whoop of the savage, danc- 
ing is the favorite amusement of the people, and the village belle 
and the leaders of ton are not the pretty or the rich, but the most 
graceful in the dance. 

Matara has a church ; but, until within a few days of our ar- 
rival, the inhabitants had been without clerical aid for two years. 
A priest, who accompanied Governor Taboado with the hope 
of forming a mission in the Chaco, finding this the case, had re- 
mained. The present Pope Pius IX., in the earlier years* of his 
career, labored in La Plata ; and many of the clergy at this time 
are educated foreigners, who, in the work of God, exhibit a noble, 
self-sacrificing, missionary spirit, and deservedly enjoy great in- 
fluence. The padre is the friend and adviser of all classes ; his 
house is the radiating point of every village. He is supposed to 
be incapable of wrong; but when " found wanting," he is most 
summarily dealt with. The last priest at this village had been 
banished the state for malpractices. 

There were many persons at Matara who had recently fled from 
the estancias below. The forays of the Indians had at that time be- 
come almost monthly occurrences, the savages generally selecting 



TREES AND SHRUBS. 373 

a moonlight night, and moving in parties large enough to overawe 
any hastily collected force. They swim or ford the Salado, de- 
scend suddenly and noiselessly upon the country ; drive off horses 
and cattle ; kill all who oppose them ; dash into the river, driv- 
ing the stolen animals before them; regain the opposite shore, 
and disappear in the wilds of the Chaco before the dawn of 
day. _ _,. 

It seems unaccountable that the population upon this river, ap- 
parently industrious and physically capable of defense, should not 
unite to protect themselves ; but generally they are without fire- 
arms, and the predecessor of Governor Taboado, appointed by 
Eosas, had done nothing to assist them. At the period of my 
visit the new Confederation had organized no system of protec- 
tion, and the few military posts established were sustained entirely 
by the energy and patriotism of the Taboados and a few kindred 
spirits. 

I append to this chapter a list of the trees and shrubs that I saw 
in the ride from the town of Santiago to the Salado, and to which 
my attention was directed by General Taboado. 

The Quebracho Colorado and Blanco. The Algorroba Blanca and 
Negra; of these some account has been given. The Vinal. the 
same genus as the algorroba, similar in wood and fruit, but un- 
like in leaf: an infusion of the latter is a remedy for inflamed 
eyes, and for this purpose they are sent to Buenos Ayres in con- 
siderable quantities for sale : from the trunk and branches pro- 
ject long sharp thorns. The Quilin, another of the mimosse ; 
thorny, as the vinal ; foliage and fruit similar to that of the al- 
gorroba. The Ghana; fruit yellow; as timber, suitable for all 
purposes where great tenacity is required. The Mistol, hard, dur- 
able timber. The Uinay, bearing a remarkable flower, which in- 
dicates an approaching change of weather. The Tola, good tim- 
ber. The Puna, sause, our willow ; molle, a shrub, the leaves of 
which are used as tea. The Jumi, the shrub producing potash. 
The Quimel, cactus ; large leaf, on which the cochineal feeds. 
The Cardon, cactus; trunk short, but large; branches octagonal. 
The bee toisimi builds its hive and deposits its honey, which is 
superior to that of all others, in this cactus. Many varieties of 
the cactus ; among them is one called the ulua, a climber, with 
large white trumpet-flower. Also a- variety of shrubs in bloom, 
and a delicate species of the epiphyte, the " Flor del Aria," of de- 
licious odor. 



374 INDIAN FORAYS. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

Bajada Sause. — Women pursued by Indians. — Laguna Toma Caphuyan. — Estancia 
Gramilla Bracho. — A Night's Sleep interrupted by the Governor's Troop in pur- 
suit of Indians. — Fording the Lagoon. — The Scouts on the Trail. — Indians in 
Sight. — The White Men defied. — A Charge. — Another Pursuit. — Disappearance 
in the Forest. — Hunger, Thirst, and a sound Sleep in the Rain. — The old Es- 
tancieros. — Hostility of the Indians. — Navicha. — Paso Sandia. — Pastures. — 
Monte Aquara. — Monte Tigre. — Arrival of an additional Force. — Musquitoes 
and Rain. — Farther Advance of the Party. — On another Trail. — Swimming the 
River. — The Volleys. — Indians. — The would-be Captive. — The dying Soldier. — 
The Bullet and a Cigar. — Monte del Muerta. — The Current running up. — The 
Return. 

On the 20th I left Matara, and at sunset reached Bajada Sause, 
having made sixteen miles. The men, who moved some hours 
in advance, had cut a passage through the fallen trees, which were 
still the only impediments to navigation. The course of the Sa- 
lado and the physical features of the adjacent lands were precisely 
those that have been noted above Matara. At the night's bivouac 
upon the banks our sympathies were strongly excited by finding 
two distressed women who were hiding from the Indians. Eight 
weeks before the savages descended upon the neighboring estan- 
cias, killed one man, and drove off all the stock they could find. 
The inhabitants offered no resistance, but fled to the woods, where 
these two women had been wandering ever since, rarely remain- 
ing twenty -four hours in any one place, spending their days upon 
the banks of the river, and their nights among the thickets of the 
forests. The only property they had saved was a very small 
flock of sheep ; these, they told us, would at night creep close 
to them without making the least noise, as if conscious of the 
vicinage of danger. 

From Bajada Sause the bordering lands became more and more 
depressed, until, about eight miles below, they merged into a vast 
lagoon called Toma Caphuyan (Tom's Hole), from five to six 
miles in width, three to four feet deep, and covered with a dense 
growth of toitora, a species of flag common in the marshes of 
Eastern Yirginia. The men had cut a passage through it wide 
enough for the boat, but without following the river channel, 
which was, wherever our course crossed it, two feet deep. 



NAVIGATING THE LAGOON. 375 

I determined, by taking a land circuit, to avoid, if possible, trie 
labor and time which must be given to cutting through it ; for I 
had satisfied myself as to the nature of the difficulties here pre- 
sented. The men were accordingly sent ahead for oxen or horses 
to carry us ashore, where we were fixtures for the night. Our 
little craft — three feet by eighteen — was rather confined quarters 
for seven men; but it was better than wading through tortora 
and water three feet deep. We had a cold, disagreeable time, 
and at dawn gladly hailed the reappearance of the men. One 
party attached a strong rope to the boat in front, another was 
placed behind, and, with a continuous song and shout, bearing 
down grass and tortora, they pulled and pushed us through near- 
ly three miles of the lagoon to the Estancia del Estado. We had 
touched dry land upon the property of the State of Santiago — at 
one time that of the crown of Spain — where now a small herd of 
cattle alone represented the hundreds of thousands that once 
ranged over its rich pastures. 

September 22d. We needed an observation for time, and were glad 
to reach this estancia early enough for a meridian altitude, which 
gave our position, latitude 28° 19' 54" south, longitude 63° 28' 58" 
west. Again the exploring craft was sent by ox-cart two miles 
across the country, to the Estancia Gramilla. In following it on 
horseback we passed through a dense growth of jumi ; the ground 
was white with an incrustation of saltpetre. 

At Gramilla the boat was launched, not, as I had hoped, upon 
the clear waters of a well-defined river, but again upon those of 
the lagoon, which extended east like a sea. The channel of the 
Salado was, however, distinguishable, and had a depth of four 
feet. There was assuredly here a subsidence of the land ; for the 
channel and course of the river had not changed within the mem- 
ory of man, and yet we passed a house with several feet of water 
around it, which not many years since stood on comparatively 
high ground, and was known in the country as Casa Alta ; and 
some distance beyond we glided in four feet water over what 
was once the site of a flourishing town, Guanagasta. The only 
remains of it were posts of the indestructible woods of the coun- 
try, standing like skeletons above water and grass. Thirty years 
ago this was a place much resorted to by agents of the merchants 
of Buenos Ayres and Santa Fe, and by the Indians of the Chaco, 
who exchanged their peltries and honey for tobacco, knives, and 
hatchets. The skin of the nutria was brought here in vast nam- 



376 APPROACH OF TROOPS. 

bers; but during the excessive and long-continued drought of 
1827, '28, and '29,* this useful little animal perished or migrated. 

At sunset we reached Sause Esquina, once an extensive and 
well-stocked estancia, now a grassy wilderness, without a mark to 
indicate its former occupation. The musquitoes not only kept us 
from sleeping, but swarmed in such numbers that it was with dif- 
ficulty we got an observation. Our position, distant eight miles 
from Guanagasta, and one and a half west of the river, was in 
latitude 28° 26' 27" south, longitude 63° 18' 07" west. The la- 
goon was still so filled with grass and tortora that we remained 
at this place during the 23d to enable the men to get somewhat 
ahead in cutting a passage through it for the boat. 

September 24:th. At 3 P.M. we again overtook our men, who were 
cutting a passage. This was very hard work, and now unneces- 
sary, for I understood perfectly the character of the lagoon. Al- 
though we had not yet reached its eastern extremity, we had 
tracked through it twenty miles of the Salado in a southeast di- 
rection. The only difficulties in its navigation arise from grass 
and tortora, which could be removed in a short time by the labor- 
ers of the country, who work for twelve and a half cents per day 
and a ration. At a rise of six feet above the present level of the 
river, the tortora would offer no impediment to the passage of a 
steamer of proper construction, for she could skim over or cut 
through it without difficulty. I directed the men to make for the 
nearest point, where we landed and proceeded a mile or two east 
to " Old Bracho," the position of an abandoned military post, 38 
miles from Matara in a right line and one third more by the 
course of the river — this difference being embraced between Ma- 
tara and Estancia del Estado. "We were now fairly beyond the 
limits of civilization, and slept with fire-arms by us. 

September 25th. We had scarcely settled ourselves for a night's 
sleep when we were aroused by the sound of an approaching body 
of horsemen. It proved to be the governor with a detachment 
of forty cavalry, and as many mounted infantry, in actual pursuit 
of a large body of Indians, who had, the very day after we left 
Matara, made a descent upon the estancias of the neighborhood, 
killed several persons, and driven off herds and flocks. They 
had crossed the Salado at Bajada Sause, where we met the two 
women, who again escaped, and had probably watched the move- 

* This period is always referred to in the country as the Gran Seco — Great 
Drought. 



PURSUIT OF INDIANS. 377 

merits of pur party. All was excitement and hurry ; the govern- 
or would not dismount, for he hoped to intercept or overtake the 
marauders by passing over to the Chaco through the lagoon, as 
they would be obliged to follow the bordering plain opposite after 
recrossing the river. 

I requested and obtained permission to join in the chase, as we 
should be compelled to await the return of the general, who de- 
termined to accompany his brother. The military passed on, and 
we followed as soon as horses could be found. At 9 P.M. we 
were mounted, and, guided by two soldiers, commenced fording 
the lagoon through which we had been toiling for some days in 
the boat. Our horses floundered through mud and water, at times 
up to the saddle-skirts. Now the guide almost disappeared ; then 
my own horse plunged to such a depth that, ungaucho-like, I 
would dismount or step aside in water over my long boots, leav- 
ing the poor animal to extricate himself.* For a few yards we 
had a firm bottom, and this, in the darkness, I presumed to be the 
channel of the Salado. 

At 11 P.M. we touched the firm land of the Chaco, and found 
the governor only awaiting our appearance to begin the march. 
Anxious to see all the manoeuvres in this pursuit of the savages, 
I took position near General Taboado, who, at the head of the 
cavalry, moved a little in advance of the infantry, which was led 
by the governor. In darkness and profound silence, unbroken 
except by some order given in an under tone, we passed over the 
plain at a walk. "We were on the trail, for the scouts reported, 
first, a bullock that had strayed from the stolen herd, then re- 
mains of a mule, and soon after the tracks of many animals, say- 
ing confidently at what hour they had passed a stated point on 
the preceding day.f 

At 5 A.M. on the 26th the order was given to proceed at a fast 
trot. "We passed a smouldering fire, with the remains of a roast- 
ed bullock, and a moment later a cloud of dust was observed in 
the east about a mile ahead. This was caused by the Indians fly- 

* When the horse of a gaucho sinks in the mud of stpantano he never dismounts, 
nor urges him on with either whip or spur, but draws up his legs, and keeps his 
seat until the animal, by his own struggles, is released. 

t The natives of the country have such an acute perception in distinguishing the 
tracks of animals that, without hesitation and with precision, they will state the 
time at which they were made, and will discriminate between those of the herds 
of different estancias, and the proportion of bulls, bullocks, or cows, horses or 
mules. 



378 THE FIGHT. 

ing over the plain at full speed, with a drove of horses in advance. 
The general followed at a rapid gallop, passing abandoned horses 
and many cattle that had strayed out from the woods, whither 
they had been hurriedly driven. Twice during this run of three 
hours the Indians lassoed and mounted fresh horses from the 
herd. It seemed to be the work of a minute, but each time we 
gained a little upon them ; and after the second change, when 
within less than a quarter of a mile, a party of the savages turned, 
rose to their full height upon the bare backs of their animals, as 
if to count the force in pursuit, and then, with defiant whoop and 
gestures, challenged them to come on. Up to this moment we 
had kept pace with the general ; but not considering it my duty 
to be speared, I now took a position aside to watch the fight. 
There was no hesitation on the part of the handful of soldiers in 
advance of the main body. They charged at a gallop. The In- 
dians shook their long lances,* dashed into their midst, spearing 
right and left, and wheeling suddenly, followed at full speed the 
rest of their party, now almost out of sight. The cacique was 
wounded, and lost his horse ; but seizing that of a wounded sol- 
dier, he fled into the forest, followed by some of his men. 

Orders having been given to make provision for the safety and 
comfort of the soldiers who had suffered in the skirmish, the gen- 
eral continued the pursuit at half speed. We passed ricados, 
horses lanced and abandoned, f cattle, the skins of animals and 
other trappings ; but as we were a second time gaining on the 
Indians, they suddenly wheeled, and dashed into the forest, which 
they had closely skirted during the chase, abandoning their hors- 
es, and disappearing as completely as if the earth had opened to 
receive them. This great body of wood, extending a three days' 
journey, was indeed an impregnable fortress, for its walls of vege- 
tation rendered farther pursuit impossible. The result of this 
skirmish and chase was the recapture of two hundred horses and 
two hundred and fifty horned cattle. 

As may be supposed, our horses, after floundering through a 
morass, traveling all night, and without a moment's rest making 
a run of 36 miles at an unbroken gallop, were fatigued. But five 
minutes were allowed for a halt ; and again at 9 A.M., under a 
sun of tropical intensity, we were retracing our steps over the 

* The Chaco Indian never throws the lance. 

f A few Indians have ricados, generally the spoils of their forays. When they 
abandon a horse broken down, under such circumstances, he is invariably lanced. 



A SLEEP IN THE KAIN. 381 

plain. Now that the excitement of the pursuit was over, we 
were tormented by thirst. No water was to be had on the march 
of that long, hot spring day ; and our bivouac for the night was 
near a slightly saline marsh, in which the deep tracks of stray 
cattle alone afforded a little brackish water. The sufferings of the 
horses may be imagined, for they had been under the' saddle 
twenty hours, and in that time, with only a rest of five minutes, 
had made one hundred and twenty miles. Tethered by a lasso, 
the pasturage of a circle of about one hundred feet across was 
now their only food. As for ourselves there was neither water, 
mate, nor food ; but spite of hunger and thirst we spread our pon- 
chos on the grass, and slept soundly. At daylight we were again 
moving along the plain at a walk, for there were no fresh horses, 
and of those recaptured from the Indians, some were unbroken, 
while others were in a worse condition than our own. 

This day's travel brought us to the Salado, where we had pure 
fresh water and a supper of asado, the first food we had tasted for 
forty hours. This was scarcely ended when the rain poured in 
such torrents as to drive us to the shelter of a deserted ranch, 
where we remained for some hours like packed herrings. This 
close stowage was far less comfortable than the Wet grass ; and at 
midnight, finding the rain was over, I spread my India-rubber 
blanket on the pampa, and soon fell into a sound sleep. In the 
morning I awoke refreshed, as if my night had been passed in the 
most luxurious apartment. So much for habit and the health of 
this climate ! 

I was much impressed by the hardy, patient endurance of the 
Santiago soldiers. Their only compensation is a suit of clothes, 
a ration of beef, and a little tobacco ; and yet the general told 
me that they served most cheerfully, rarely deserted, and would 
make a march of two or three successive days without food or 
water ; and with a sack of pounded parched corn, which each 
man carries behind him, would uncomplainingly pass through a 
campaign of two weeks. But when meat is placed before them, 
they consume the most enormous quantities. A beeve is the 
usual daily ration for twenty -five men. 

In this Indian chase we passed through one hundred and thir- 
ty-five miles of the Chaco over a plain or strip of rich pasture-land 
five miles in breadth, which is bounded on one side by an un- 
broken forest extending about one hundred and fifty miles north 
and south, and on the other by the Salado. In returning from their 



382 INDIAN DEPKEDATIONS. 

incursions into Cordova and Santiago, the Indians drive before 
them large herds and nocks, the plunder of different estancias. 
Pasturage and water are therefore all-essential; and, to secure 
these they invariably pass along this plain, coasting the Salado 
as far as the lake Tostado, where they double the southeastern 
termination of the forest, and taking their last draught of sweet 
water, push across north to the Yermejo. 

The opposite or Santiago side of the Salado was, before the 
Eevolution, one of the most populous in La Plata. For hundreds 
of miles pastoral establishments bordered the river, several of 
them being the property of the crown, and, within the recollection 
of many, the estancieros resided upon these estates. The Indians, 
always defiant and hostile, were yet held somewhat in check by 
the power of Spain. But after the Eevolution, encouraged by a 
knowledge of the civil factions that disturbed the country, and 
not unfrequently guided by army-deserters or refugees from jus- 
tice, not only the tribes bordering on the Salado, but migratory 
hordes from the north, poured down upon these frontier estan- 
cias, killed the men, carried their wives and children into hope- 
less slavery, and, driving before them herds of cattle, regained, 
without molestation, the interior of the Chaco. These Indians 
have never learned the use of fire-arms, and, by examining the 
map, it may be seen how easily a chain of small military posts 
could have protected the whole Salado country. 

Fort Bracho, the eastern frontier post of Santiago, about one 
and a half miles west of the old position, and in latitude 28° 21/ 
15" south, longitude 63° 12' west, is simply a collection of well- 
constructed mud houses, surrounded by a palisade of stout que- 
bracho trunks fifteen feet high. It is commanded by a major, 
but its use as a military post may be doubted in witnessing the 
impunity with which the savages continue their forays. The 
revenues of the state estancias, formerly the crown property, on 
this river, would at one time have been fully adequate for the de- 
fense of the frontier, had they been properly applied by the last 
governor under Rosas. 

The boat was again transported to ISTarvicha,* six leagues south- 
east from Fort Bracho and the eastern extremity of the lagoon. 
From thence I proposed to continue my exploration, accompanied 
by the governor and a detachment of fifty mounted infantry. 

* All proper names here introduced indicate points in the wilderness once known 
as estancias. 



THE SALADO. 383 

We reached it at sunset on the 1st of October. Instead of an 
asado of beef we had for supper delicious wild fowl, which abound 
in the islets of the lagoon. 

October 2d. We again launched our craft on the Bocaron de 
Narvicha, a stream which branches off from the Salado, in the la- 
goon, and rejoins the main channel at Sandia Paso, in latitude 
28° 43' 08", longitude 62° 58', nine miles by land and double that 
distance by water. It had five feet water, but was much obstruct- 
ed by fallen trees. The banks on both sides were fringed with 
algorrobas, vinal, and chanar. * Unmistakable marks on banks 
and trees indicated a rise at high water of six feet above the pres- 
ent level. We soon overtook the men dispatched ahead to make 
an opening for us, but from that time till sunset advanced slowly. 
We enjoyed amazingly our asado and the warmth of the bivouac 
fires around which we settled for the night ; but the rain soon 
after poured in torrents, and obliged us to seek shelter under the 
dense foliage of the trees, which were a poor protection against 
such an outpouring of the clouds, continuing throughout the 
night. 

October 3d. Under way at an early hour, we soon reached Paso 
Sandia, the encampment of the general, who honored our arrival 
with a " carne con cuero."-f A little beyond this the Salado flowed 
on, a well-defined and unobstructed stream, about sixty feet wide 
and from four to six in depth ; current half a mile ; banks low, 
abrupt, and indicating a rise of five feet above the present level 
at the season of high water. At Paso Sandia I found in the sur- 
face-soil vast quantities of the minute fresh- water shells seen fif- 
teen and twenty feet below it at Matara. I had now passed over 
the most difficult part of the Salado in a boat, and had seen enough 
to convince me of the practicability of its navigation. But this 
cutting a passage through overhanging and fallen trees promised 
to be a work of more time than I could well spare ; so, relying 
upon the assurance of the governor's guide, that our course lay 
directly along it, and that I could touch it at any point, I determ- 
ined to join his Excellency's party, and proceed by land. We 
moved along on the right bank, and occasionally tried the depth 
of the stream by fording or bathing. 

October 4th. The Salado was now a beautiful and well-defined 
stream, following a general direction of southeast, through a grassy 

* An infusion of the leaves of the chanar is considered in that country an infal- 
lible cure for dropsy. f Beef roasted in the skin. 



384 THE PAMPA. 

pampa, belted for miles by noble mimosas ; again its banks were 
not wooded, but fringed with luxuriant alfalfa, the bright yellow 
blossoms contrasting gaylj with the deep rich green of the grass. 
At sunset we had made twenty-five miles in a right line, which 
might be estimated at double that distance by the course of the 
river. As we advanced, the adjacent lands were undulating, 
presenting considerable grassy elevations for a pampa country. 
Winding through it was a broad, verdant, and meadow-like belt, 
which looked as if it might once have been the bed of a river. 

October 6th. We passed over a fine undulating pampa, carpeted 
as far as the eye could reach with the most luxuriant alfalfa, the 
Salado winding through it, a bright placid stream skirted by trees. 
The algorroba, in some parts of La Plata a small bushy tree, 
was here superb in size and foliage, and as clear of undergrowth 
and dead limbs as if carefully trimmed. I enjoyed the sunset 
glories of that spring day, and an hour's rest upon a grassy eleva- 
tion, from which I viewed the picturesque groups of dark-visaged 
gauchos. Some were bringing water from the river, others seek- 
ing fuel, and many gathered around the bivouac fires watching 
the asado. The atmosphere was resplendently clear, and the air 
soft, balmy, and redolent of the fragrance of alfalfa, through which 
the horses and cattle waded to their bellies. I thought I had nev- 
er seen a fairer pastoral region. It was once inclosed as the Es- 
tancia Dona Lorenza, one among the most celebrated in La Plata. 
Posts dotted the plain, and traces of canals, by which the water 
of the Salado was conducted through the lands for irrigation, were 
the only vestiges of former occupation. Except some miserable 
captive, not a white man had passed here within the last quarter 
of a century. 

October 6th. From the Estancia Dona Lorenza, which is in lati- 
tude 29° 05' 13" south, longitude 62° 48' west, we traveled twen- 
ty-three miles, making eighty -three from Fort Bracho. I found 
the characteristics of river and bordering land varying but little 
from those noted the 5th. In the course of the day it was repeat- 
edly crossed by fording, touched at every bend, and bathed in at 
the close of the day's work. It has a width of about eighty feet, 
and a depth of from four to six. The banks showed no washing ; 
I therefore concluded that, even at the season of high water, there 
is very little current, and now it was scarcely perceptible. But 
this may be ascribed somewhat to the early rains eastward and to 
the "repunte" of the Parana, which had backed the waters up so 



ABANDONED ESTANCIAS. 385 

far as to neutralize the current and increase the depth of the Sa- 
lado to nearly its maximum. 

October 7th. Our bivouac fires for the night were close to the 
river, and near a skirting of fine quebrachos, one mile below 
Paso de Coria, in latitude 29° 13' 42" south, longitude 62° 34' 30" 
west. I observed during the day no obstructions to navigation. 
There was scarcely any current ; the waters were clear ; and as 
the river coursed through its green banks, so uniform was its 
width that it looked like a grand canal. Could we have remain- 
ed one month longer at Monte Aguara, I believe we might have 
ascended to Sandia Paso in the Yerba. The plain abounds in a 
plant, the "caqueja;"* and in other parts of the province there 
grows a small tree, the " melancillo," which is highly valued for 
the medicinal properties of its root in cases of diarrhoea. 

October 8th. Bivouacked at Monte Tigre, latitude 29° 22' 32" 
south, longitude 62° 22' west, near a grove of nandubay, the first 
I had seen upon this river ; it is of the mimosa family, and not 
unlike the algorroba in foliage, but the trunk is larger and straight- 
er, and the bark is very rough. 

We passed at every mile or two marks of abandoned estancias. 
At Viuda, formerly a rich cattle farm, we met a detachment of 
twenty soldiers from a military post of the Dulce. The governor 
had ordered them to join him here, for he was now in pursuit of 
the Indians who had made the last foray into Santiago. Among 
the soldiers was one who acted as guide or vaqueano. He knew 
every bend and ford of the Salado, having recently escaped from 
the Chaco after a captivity of many years among the Indians, who 
carried him off when he was quite a child. 

In the evening the wind was from the south, very fresh, and 
the rain continuous, pouring in such torrents that ponchos, horse- 
blankets, etc., formed into a tent, under which the general, Mr. 
Murdaugh, and Cornelius crept with us, made but a poor pro- 
tection. Musquitoes, close stowage, and a leaky roof were no 
provocatives to sleep ; but in such sheets did the water continue 
to fall, that we kept in our quarters until 10 o'clock A.M. of the 
next morning. 

On the 9th we made but fifteen miles, passing numbers of aban- 
doned estancias. The whole country was entirely destitute of 
wood ; not a bush was to be seen, but the alfalfa was rich and 

* A tea made of its leaves is, the governor tells me, an infallible remedy for ve- 
nereal diseases. 

25 



386 THROUGH THE MUD. 

fresh. ; as in a sea we waded through it. This was the beginning 
of the rainy season, which had set in much earlier than usual. 
As we advanced southeast the river was full and the lands im- 
mediately adjacent almost impassable. The beginning of the 
night was clear. We had no supper, not even a mate ; for there 
could not be found fuel enough to boil a little water. Not so, 
however, with our horses ; it was pleasant to see them luxuriat- 
ing in the alfalfa. Myriads of musquitoes and rain — such floods 
as pour down in these countries during the season — drive away 
sleep ; but on a clear night these pampa apartments, with their 
starry frescoes, are not bad. A man could scarcely desire a soft- 
er bed than the fragrant clover. Our rest was short. At 1 A.M. 
on the 10th we were in the saddle. Again the rain poured in 
torrents, and, although it was the second spring month, I shiver- 
ed; for my India-rubber poncho was a good protection from rain, 
but a very poor one from cold. 

The object of this early move was to surprise a toldo near La- 
guna Abipones. "We had gone but a short distance when we 
reached the borders of a pantano. As it was very dark and rain- 
ing hard, the guides thought it prudent to wait for daylight be- 
fore attempting to cross ; so we remained, even in the darkness a 
black shadow on the borders of the morass. With the first streak 
of day we were floundering through mud and water, one taking 
his own way, another closely following the guide. On we went, 
plunging, whooping, yelling, laughing at our own or others' mis- 
fortunes ; for some were fixtures, imbedded like fossils, or so 
firmly planted that they looked as if destined to remain, like the 
estancia posts, monuments of the life that had passed away ; oth- 
ers turned somersets over their horses' heads, regaining their feet 
only to sink knee-deep in the soft mud. After toiling for two 
hours through the swamp, we touched terra firma, and reached 
our halting-place, Islita Chanar,* at 7 A.M. on the 11th, having 
been in the saddle six hours. Here it was deemed expedient to 
refresh both horses and men, preparatory to another Indian chase. 
Fearing that the savages would discover our approach the cook- 
ing fires were kindled behind a grove of chanar and kept very 
low. 

After a rest of a few hours we were again in the saddle, and 
following as closely as we could the windings of the river. Islas 
of wood, generally chanar, alone broke the monotony of the pam- 

* Groves of wood which, on the naked pampa, have the appearance of islands. 



FIGHT AT THE PASO MISTOL. 387 

pa ; the alfalfa was every where exuberant in its growth. Al- 
though the governor anticipated a fight with the Indians, before 
leaving Islita de Chanar he nailed his card against a tree, invit- 
ing a parlamento (talk) — a mode of invitation well understood by 
the savages. 

After advancing six miles the scouts returned and reported 
stray cattle and horses. We were undoubtedly on the trail. 
" They passed day before yesterday toward the Paso de Tostado," 
said the vaqueanos. The men judged from tracks of the animals, 
and spoke without hesitation. The general based his movements 
as confidently on their report as if they had come from the midst 
of the -savages. 

We had made about eight miles when, passing a fire, it was 
presumed that the Indians were in our neighborhood; and the 
soldiers were ordered to advance at a full gallop to Palo Negro, 
a belting of that wood. Here we came in sight of a number of 
horses and cattle on the Chaco side of the Salado. The men dash- 
ed down to the river, stripped off their clothing, again mounted, 
lance in hand, swam across, encircled the animals, and, driving 
them ahead, regained the opposite bank at the moment that a 
party of about forty Indians, with a war-whoop, issued from be- 
hind a grove of chanar, and made for the Paso Mistol. The grove 
of chanar in which their toldo was pitched had concealed from 
them our approach. Extending for some distance on the Chaco 
bank was a thin growth of bushes, and beyond, parallel with it, 
a slight elevation. On nearing the Paso the Indians threw them- 
selves down behind the bushes, which, with the long grass, pro- 
tected them from the unskillful firing of the soldiers, although the 
distance was not more than thirty yards. Volley after volley was 
fired into their midst, and after each, one, two, or three of them 
would rise, and with lightning speed escape amid a shower of 
bullets, seemingly unharmed. After blazing away for some time 
the general directed the interpreter to ask them if they would 
surrender. "Never! San Antonio for ever!" was the cacique's 
reply. The firing was kept up, and the Indians, apparently un- 
touched, continued to disappear over the hill. I began to think 
that the whole party had escaped, when one rose up, whose appear- 
ance was hailed by a shout and a volley ; he fell flat upon his 
face, as if struck, but in another instant was upon his feet. There 
was a second round, and again, he fell, only to rise again untouch- 
ed. Up to this moment I remained quietly on my horse, rather 



388 THE WOULD-BE CAPTIVE. 

an amused spectator of the firing, for the gancho soldier is more 
skillful with the lasso than with the gun, and the Indians believe 
that their musket-balls may be dodged. The general now turned 
to me, and said hurriedly, 

" Commandante ! that is a Cordovase, and a noted reprobate, 
a villain, a traitor I" 

I raised my carbine, and, as the man gained the top of the 
grassy hillock behind which he would have escaped in another 
minute, fired, not to kill, but to stop his headway. In an instant 
he fell upon his knees, and the same moment, throwing up his 
arms, implored mercy, exclaiming "soi cautivo" ("I am a cap- 
tive") — meaning that he had been carried off by the Indians. 

The soldiers were now ordered to the Chaco, and the next min- 
ute the river was covered with half-naked gauchos swimming 
over. After all this expenditure of ammunition, but two dead In- 
dians were found, and the white man, who was wounded in the 
fleshy part of the thigh, and who at the approach of the soldiers 
exclaimed, " Spare me! I am a captive." This announcement 
was received by the men with a loud and derisive laugh. He 
was known as a native of Cordova ; and when dyed with crime 
had escaped justice by joining the Indians, for whom he had acted 
as guide in several recent forays. Parties sent out to scour the 
country on the Chaco side found the toldo, which, from its size, 
indicated a greater number of Indians than we had supposed, and 
the articles left behind showed that they had been surprised. 
This explained the game of the savages at the Paso Mistol, who 
engaged the attention of their pursuers to insure the escape of 
the women and children. 

The alfalfa of this section of the country was extraordinarily 
rich, and the Indians had probably anticipated remaining here a 
long time with their herds, little dreaming of the least disturbance 
after having for more than a quarter of a century enjoyed the un- 
interrupted range of the pampa across the Salado. A number of 
earthen utensils were found, and some few articles recognized as 
the spoils of their recent expedition ; for as the guides asserted, 
they were the marauders who watched the movements of our 
party at Bajada Sause, and had advanced two days ahead of us. 
Among other articles - found in their tents were a manta and a 
head-dress of the cacique. The latter was a sort of helmet, sur- 
rounded by ostrich feathers ; the manta was made of a soft flexi- 
ble hide, and covered with feathers. 



BUKIAL OF THE DEAD. 391 

The day's work closed with the capture of about one hundred 
horses and thirty milch cows, attended, however, with the loss of 
one of the soldiers, who had engaged in the pursuit, and was 
mortally wounded in single combat with a powerful Indian. I 
shall never forget the expression of that poor dying man's face, 
as with glazed eye and drooping head he was brought on horse- 
back to the Paso, seated behind a comrade. Young, of fine mus- 
cular development, and full of fire, he had been among the first 
to reach the Chaco. In less than an hour the spirit had fled, and 
the soldier was buried beneath a quebracho. The two bodies 
of the Indians were put into a hide "balsa,"* as if they had been 
slaughtered bullocks, and then thrown out on the opposite pam- 
pa, for on the part of the gaucho there is toward the Indian a 
deeply-seated hatred. The wounded Cordovase was carried over 
with very little more ceremony. The creature appealed to me in 
the most beseeching terms to extract the ball from his thigh; 
finding that impossible, he, with the same voice and manner, im- 
plored me to give him a cigar. At sight of the bodies of the 
Indians he broke out into wild and fearful curses. " They had 
brought him," he said, "to this state," by forcing him to act as 
their guide. He was an admirable actor, but did not at all im- 
pose upon the general, who knew that he was a " vaqueano volun- 
teer io." The youthful captives of the savages are sometimes forced 
into their service as guides, but our prisoner, being well known, 
was delivered up for punishment to the Governor of Cordova. 

TYe encamped for the night under a skirting of wood near Paso 
Mistol, which is in latitude 29° 16' 03" south, longitude 61° 15' 
west. The rain fell in torrents, but I slept through the whole of 
it under cover of my India-rubber poncho, and on the morning 
of the 12th was astir at an early hour, and ready for another day's 
ride. 

12th. A short distance below the Paso the Salado makes a re- 
markable circuit : from east it winds to southwest, north to north- 
east, making within four points every course of the compass ; its 
general direction is southeast. After progressing eight miles, we 
halted for breakfast at Monte del Muerte, so called because a short 
time before our visit a female captive had been put to death for 
attempting to escape. The frame-work of an abandoned toldo 
here was tied together by the long hair of a white woman. At 

* A Salado balsa is a hide caught up at the four corners by a rope of the same 
material, or a pole, and guided across the river by madadores (swimmers). 



392 THE LOWER SALADO. 

sunset we halted near the Monte Cueva de Lobo.* It was evident 
that we were to pass another rainy night ; but, making a joint pro- 
tection of ponchos, we covered a snug tent, under which we slept 
soundly. 

This was the lowest point that we reached on the Salado ; a 
great disappointment to me, for I was anxious to join my work 
with that completed to Monte Aguara. I have alluded to one of 
our guides as having lived for many years among the Indians. 
The governor expressed perfect confidence in the veracity and 
intelligence of this man, who, during his captivity, had passed re- 
peatedly along the banks of the Salado from Sandia Paso to Monte 
Aguara, and had crossed and recrossed at various parts of it. I 
accepted his declaration that the characteristics of the river to the 
latter point were similar to those noted in the last two days ; but 
to assure myself doubly, I questioned him as to its appearance at 
and a little below Monte Aguara. His answers corresponded per- 
fectly with my notes. From Sandia Paso to Monte Cueva de 
Lobo, 134 miles, I had kept along the right bank, and followed 
nearly every bend of the river south. I forded it repeatedly, 
halted near it each night, and in returning crossed at Paso Mistol, 
and followed the left or Chaco bank in the same manner; had 
there been any obstacle to a continuous navigation, it could not 
have escaped me. The formation of the country through which 
it courses forbids the idea of reefs or falls.f 

But I have not explained why it was impossible to proceed. 
The rains had not only set in very early, for they begin generally 
in November, but, eastward, were unusually heavy. The govern- 
or, anxious as myself to unite the two explorations, sent an officer 
with a detachment of soldiers, guided by the man before mention- 
ed, to note the condition of the country. After an absence of 
twenty -four hours they returned and reported the river full al- 
most to the level of its banks, and the adjacent pantanos impassa- 
ble. "With great difficulty they had extricated two of their horses. 
To have followed a circuitous route would have defeated the ob- 
jects in view ; added to this, the governor's provisions were low, 
and the men on half rations. The heavy rains east had complete- 
ly neutralized the current of the Salado at this section of it ; but 

* So called from a small animal, the lobo (seal), which abounds in this place. 

t While engaged in writing these lines I received the letter that is given in an- 
other chapter from Governor Taboado. It will be seen that the Salado is, as I 
declared, navigable throughout its course. 



THE RETURN. 393 

I was not quite prepared for the statement of a scout, who, before 
we set out on this exploration, had been sent to watch the move- 
ments of the Indians, and who stated that not far from Sandia 
Paso " the current was running up." I presumed that the man 
had been perplexed by the sinuosities of the river, and had mis- 
taken down for up, but I afterward discovered that the assertion 
had some truth in it. The rains east were so heavy that the sup- 
ply of water from that direction was far greater than from its Up- 
per sources in the western Cordilleras of Salta, and for a time — so 
little declivity has the bed of the Salado — that the movement 
seemed to be not from the west, but the east. The estimated di- 
rect course from Bracho to Monte Cueva de Lobo was 168 miles, 
and by the windings of the stream double that distance. 

By observation the following are the distances in a right line 
between the points made by us : From Estancia Taboado to Ma- 
tara, 51 miles ; from Matara to Bracho, 38 ; Bracho to Narvicha, 
17 ; Narvicha to Mistol, 69 ; Mistol to Monte Aguara, 81 ; Monte 
Aguara to Santa Fe, 88. 

The relative distances in a right line and by the course of the 
river may be thus estimated : From Estancia Taboado to Matara, 
in a right line, 51 miles ; by the river, 110. This may be as- 
sumed as a very good standard by which to judge of the others, 
with the exception of that between Monte Aguara and Santa Fe, 
which by the river is within a fraction of being four times greater. 

On the 14th of October — one month from the time we had 
launched our boat upon the Salado at Estancia Taboado — we be- 
gan to retrace our steps from Monte Cueva de Lobo. 



394 A CORDON OF PORTS. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

Crossing at Paso Mistol. — A Cordon of Posts. — Paso la Torre. — A Wild-goat 
Chase. — Navigation of the Salado. — Sefiora Mendez. — Sleep in the Open Air. — 
Reservoirs of Water. — Drought. — Arrival at Santiago. — A Ball. — Toasts. — 
Fine Dancing. — River Dulce. — Road to Tucuman. — Approach the Andes. — 
Woodland. — Rio Tala. — Mountains. — Scenery. — Arrival at Tucuman. — Hotels 
in La Plata. — Dr. Priestly. — Sugar-Plantation. — Molasses, Sugar, and Rum Es- 
tablishment. — Cultivation of the Sugar-cane. — A Dinner at Sefior Zavalier's. — , 
Sefiora and her Daughters. — A Ride into the Country. — Scenery. — Dinner and 
Ball at the Governor's. — Beauty of Spanish- American Women. — Province of 
Tucuman. — The Capital. — Progress. — Statistics. — Cultivation. — Start for Salta. 
— Valleys. — Productive Capacity of the Soil. — Wheat. — Mountain Road. — Posta 
Romero. — The foiled Post-master. — Alimafia. — Grassy Basin. — Destitute Post- 
master. — Valley Chiguano. — Upper Waters of the Salado. — Products of Valley 
Chiguano. — River Rosario. — Ford the Arrias. — Arrive at Salta. 

October 15th. At Paso Mistol a hide taken from the frame- work 
of a toldo was in a few minutes converted into a balsa, in which 
we crossed the Salado, having determined to follow the Chaco side 
some distance in order to avoid patanos and observe the north- 
ern vueltas of the river in returning to Santiago. 

The men swam over with the horses. We found a few half 1 
starved howling dogs still hanging around the deserted toldo, and 
the skeletons of the two Indians who had been killed in the right 
with the governor's soldiers bleaching upon the plain. The ca- 
ranchas had stripped them of every particle of flesh. Six miles 
from the Paso we reached the little lake Tostado, which, from be- 
ing one of the never-failing sources of fresh water in the country, 
is invariably passed by the Indians during their incursions into 
the provinces. This is the point for a strong military post. After 
I had completed the exploration of the Salado I addressed a note 
to the Minister of Foreign Affairs for the Argentine Confedera- 
tion, Don Juan Maria Gutierrez, expressing my views as to the 
importance of a cordon of posts to extend from the Parana, nine 
miles below Groya, to this lake, which would, I think, effectually 
confine the Indians to the Chaco north of that line, and reclaim 
from their devastations the finest districts of three states. Such 
an establishment would render entirely unnecessary the mainten- 
ance of those now existing, and would therefore entail no addi- 
tional annual expenditure upon the government. Senor Gritier- 



NAVIGATION OF THE SALADO 395 

rez wrote in reply, thanking me in the name of the President for 
my suggestions, which he thought would be adopted, as they ac- 
corded with his Excellency's preconceived notions on the subject. 

From the lake — our road being one usually taken by the In- 
dians — was a well-beaten track through a plain clothed with the 
finest grasses, and, both inland and skirting the Salado, wooded 
with algorroba and quebracho. There was not a sign of human 
occupation or a sound to indicate an approach to the scenes oi 
man's industry. The rainy season had fairly set in, and for sev- 
eral nights we slept upon the ground with only the protection of 
India-rubber ponchos. The incessant drenching to which I was 
exposed disturbed me, however, less than the myriads of mosqui- 
toes that swarm the river courses of the pampas at that season. 

On the 16th we still followed the grassy campo, here about 
seven miles wide, and bounded west by the great forest to which 
I have alluded ; while to the left flowed' the Salado, its course 
marked by a wooded belting. Toward evening we reached that 
part of the plain to which the soldiers pursued the Indians on the 
25th of the past month, when they so suddenly disappeared in the 
depths of the wood. 

Before crossing the river at Paso la Torre we chased a " cor- 
zuela," the wild goat of the country, which so closely resembles 
the small deer that, at a short distance, it might be readily mis- 
taken for one. Notwithstanding the jaded condition of our horses 
we kept up with the gauchos, who, the moment they espied the 
little animal, dashed after it at full speed. But, fleet as the deer, 
it sped over the plain, gaining the river and swimming to the op- 
posite bank before the horsemen were once near enough to throw 
the bolas or lasso. 

On the 17th, with fresh horses and two guides furnished by the 
governor, we started at an early hour in a heavy rain, and reached 
Bracho the middle of the same day. 

I here ended my examination of the lower waters of the Salado, 
and feel no hesitation in saying that a steamer properly construct- 
ed for this river navigation could ascend, the greater part of the 
year, from Santa Fe to JSTavicha. The only obstructions — grass 
or fallen trees — could be readily removed, without great loss of 
time, by a boat's crew. But there is no reason why Navicha 
should be the head of navigation. By removing tortora and bar- 
ricados, Matara would be quite as accessible and a much more 
central point, being but forty-one miles from the town of Santia- 



396 



DON PESADO MENDEZ. 




go, in a right line, one hundred and fifty-three from Tucuman, 
and one hundred and twenty-eight from Sandra Paso by the river, 
making the entire distance from Santa Fe to Matara five hund- 
red and eighty-seven nautical miles. By ascending the Salado 
even to ISTavicha, the time now consumed in the land route from 
Santa Fe to Tucuman would be diminished at least three fourths, 
and the expense of transportation — deducting a large profit — one 
half. 

After obtaining observations of verification we left Bracho, and 
on the same evening arrived at the ranch of Don Pesado Mendez. 
We found a humble little thatched house of one room, with a 
shed in front ; for here, as in other districts of Santiago, the in- 
habitants during the dry season sleep in the open air, and trouble 
themselves little about in-door arrangements. Senora Mendez 
gave us an excellent supper of hominy and lamb, and the Don 
offered me the use of his hide cot. We passed, in our ride from 
Bracho, some fine fields of wheat and corn, but many of the 
ranch os were deserted, their owners being still at Matara or con- 
cealed in the wood, whither they had fled from the last attack of 
the Indians. It was a melancholy spectacle to see a country thus 



AKRIVAL AT SANTIAGO. 397 

desolated, and after witnessing the courage with which the San- 
tiaganians pursued the Indians and received a charge from them 
on the plain, I may repeat what Dobrizhoffer noted a hundred 
years ago: " The inhabitants of the district of Santiago are dis- 
tinguished alike for the greatness of their valor and the scantiness 
of their means in war against the savages." 

After some little detention at Matara, arising from the difficulty 
of obtaining horses, we continued our joiirney, and at two o'clock 
arrived at the ranch of an old man, who, though disturbed in his 
first nap, proved good-natured and hospitable to the extent of his 
means. Fortunately, at this moment one of the postillions, a good 
fellow and a shrewd provident caterer, produced from his trav- 
eling stores half of a kid, upon which we made a sumptuous 
feast. The master of the ranch offered me his cot, but I preferred 
the grass. The rain beating in my face awakened me at 4 A.M., 
and with the dawn we were in the saddle, Cornelius having first 
performed the important function of ministering to us the mate. 

October 18th. We had now entered a region neither artificially 
irrigated nor as yet refreshed by the commencement of the peri- 
odical rains. The grass was brown and the vegetation generally 
so blighted that the country would have presented a desolate ap- 
pearance but for the fine woodlands that intersected it. The 
quebracho-trees were the loftiest I had yet seen in the Confedera- 
tion. In this district I saw for the first time enormous reservoirs 
for the collection of rain-water. They are mere excavations pro- 
tected by embankments of earth ; one of a hundred feet in diam- 
eter, by a depth of twelve, affords an unfailing supply to a large 
number of cattle. At the estancia of Don Francisco Santiago, 
who was largely engaged in rearing mules, was one of still great- 
er dimensions. We dined with this gentleman, whose household 
was most comfortably arranged, and presided over by a wife and 
two pretty daughters. 

Through some mismanagement the governor's orders to furnish 
us with fresh horses had not been received, and we were compelled 
to make the last fifty-one miles of this journey upon the same 
animals which, unaware of the difficulty in obtaining others, we 
had ridden in the early part of the day twenty miles at half speed. 
They held out, however, and on reaching Santiago at 9 P.M. we 
rode directly to the residence of the governor, who had not yet 
arrived, but we were most kindly received by his brother Don 
Graspar. 



398 START FOR TUC.UMAN. 

No representation of a want of time or dress appropriated to 
such an occasion would be received by the Santiaganians as an 
excuse for declining the honor of a public ball. On the 24th I 
met at the government-house all the beauty and fashion of Santi- 
ago, and most lovely were some of the women. The music, re- 
freshments, indeed all the arrangements of this ball were admira- 
ble ; and when daylight peered through the latticed blinds the 
gay assembly had by no means diminished. Waltzes, polkas, and 
mazurkas were all introduced in the course of the evening ; but I 
was charmed with the fedral, the garto, and other Spanish dances, 
in which the grace of the women was inimitable. At the supper- 
table Don Francisco Archibal, in referring to the occasion of the 
ball, alluded also to the progress and prosperity of the United 
States, and the obligation our government had conferred upon 
their country by the happy results of the expedition sent to ex- 
amine into its river system. 

On the 27th I started for Tucuman, accompanied for a short 
distance by some of the most prominent citizens of Santiago. Our 
road for six leagues lay along the south side of the Dulce, which 
throughout that distance is very unvarying in width and other 
characteristics. It is a quarter of a mile wide, and intersected by 
numerous sand-flats, which interrupt the regular course of the 
channel ; current two miles ; banks low. During the rise, which 
is from ten to twelve feet, the bordering lands for some distance 
on both sides are often inundated. Judging from the appearance 
of its bed and the number of streams that disembogue in this riv- 
er, its volume of water must exceed that of the Salado, and yet it 
is represented as losing itself in the Lake Porongas. The adjacent 
country is well wooded with algorroba, vinal, and quebracho ; the 
open lands are populous and cultivated ; the soil is a rich dark 
alluvium, covering a friable limestone. 

Leaving the river, we passed through a sandy district abound- 
ing in salinas — shallow, being lakes which are, during the season 
of drought, converted by solar evaporation into fields of a fine 
quality of snow-white salt. At 9 P.M. we reached Gramilla, hav- 
ing made twenty-two leagues. It was a clear bright night, and, 
as usual, we slept in the open air, with poncho and saddle for bed 
and bedding. But our rest was disturbed by a party of musi- 
cians at the posta, who, with an untuned harp, a rustic guitar, and 
singing, made more noise than harmony. 

October 28th. After mate and milk fresh from the cow we were 



APPROACH THE MOUNTAINS. 399 

again in the saddle at 6 A.M., and at the distance of four leagues 
made Bargual, a settlement of a few houses near the dividing line 
between Santiago and Tucuman. From Gramilla to Bargual there 
was some wheat growing, of apparently excellent quality, which 
yielded, I was told, fifteen bushels to the acre. Where not in- 
closed for culture, the face of the country was verdant with fine 
pastures, which were overspread with herds of cattle and flocks 
of sheep — a change not due to artificial irrigation, but to the prox- 
imity of the mountains. 

From Bargual we approached in a westerly course the mount- 
ains. They are a continuation of the range known as the Sierras 
of Cordova, at the base of which, upon a broad, well- watered, and 
fruitful plain, is the capital of Tucuman. In the distance rose the 
mountains of Catamarca, presenting at first the appearance of a 
heap of clouds ; and again, as we advanced, of an island at sea, 
the base of which is yet hid below the horizon. 

Before crossing the Dulce, or Tala, which courses a mile and a 
half east of the city of Tucuman, we passed through a fine tract 
of woodland. The air was redolent with the perfume of acacias 
through a natural avenue of which the road lay. But rising 
above all minor growth of mimosas was the cevil — as embellishing 
to its native forests as useful in the industrial establishments of 
the country. Its smooth, tall, limbless trunk has an umbrella- 
shaped crowning, every bough and twig of which is completely 
hidden by a mass of deep green fringed foliage, and at the season 
of bloom by clusters of delicate white flowers. In this forest ride 
we had the enlivenment of nature's gay-plumaged vocalists, and, 
as in many parts of La Plata, trunks and limbs of trees were 
inwrapped and festooned with beautiful climbing plants. The 
dews are very copious, and their refreshing influence, as well as 
that of an admirable system of natural and artificial irrigation by 
a distribution of the waters of the Dulce, or Tala, was very ap- 
parent in the increased exuberance and activity of vegetation. 

Weary of the monotony of grassy levels, imposingly grand, re- 
freshing to all the senses was the panorama of mountains that 
opened before us as we emerged from the forest. These were not 
the insulated masses or the hillocks of the pampas, but parts of a 
great system — a section of the Andean ranges. Now clearly de- 
fined, the Sierras of Catamarca, their highest summits white with 
perpetual snows, bounded the horizon west, and from them ex- 
tended east, diminishing in height with the regularity of successive 



400 TUCUMAN. 

steps, a series of sierras and serranias. North, and some two or 
three miles from the city, opened a broad longitudinal valley, in- 
closed west by the principal range, and east by a detached ele- 
vation. The serranias, with their bare but verdant summits and 
slopes clothed with majestic forests, had all the stately proportion 
of mountains ; and between them were grassy ridges several hund- 
red feet in height, sloping gently to lateral valleys, watered by 
many small rivers which find an outlet in the Tala at distances 
varying from one to twelve leagues. These tributaries, named in 
succession from Tucuman south, are the Lules, Colorado, Farma- 
illa, Aranilla, Mondolo, Montaro, Pueblo, Yiego Seco, Conven- 
tilla, Eamado, Medcinas, Chico, Marapa, and Senor Francisco. It 
is at the confluence of this last named stream with the Dulce that 
this river assumes the name of Hondo, which it retains until it 
enters the province of Santiago. 

Fatigued by a long day's ride under an almost vertical sun, we 
entered the city of Tucuman, rode directly to the plaza, and in- 
quired for the fonda (tavern). After some hesitation we were di- 
rected to a gloomy -looking building, distinguished by the sign of 
a chicken-cock; but our disappointment may be imagined when 
we were told that no quarters were to be had. There are few 
hotels in these provinces, and it is the custom for travelers to be 
passed from one town to another by friends and acquaintances 
through letters of introduction. I had been furnished with many 
such passports from Santiaganians, and though enjoined to present 
them, I was unwilling to impose a party of three on the hospi- 
tality of a private family without first trying to procure rooms. 

Having heard that there was an English physician residing in 
Tucuman, to his house I next turned from the sign of the chicken- 
cock. We found the residence of Dr. Priestly, and of a person 
who opened the door I inquired for " el Senor Medico.' 1 ' 1 Softer 
and more grateful than the Pasa adelante of the Spanish was the 
cheerful " Walk in, Sir" of an honest-faced Englishman. To make 
any port in a storm was with me, in my wanderings, an establish- 
ed rule ; but here we " came to" in a snug harbor — the home of 
as fine a specimen of an English gentleman as can be found among 
the lady sovereign's subjects. Most noble, and beautiful, and im- 
pressive was our mother tongue in those remote regions, from the 
lips of a perfect stranger, who invited us with such unhesitating 
cordiality to "share the discomforts of my temporary bachelor 
establishment." 



A SUGAR PLANTATION. 401 

A few months before our arrival, Dr. Priestly, in crossing the 
continent from the Atlantic to the Pacific coast, had stopped at 
Tucuman, where he was induced to establish himself for the prac- 
tice of his profession. He is a man of finished education and fine 
manners, and so popular was he personally, and so esteemed as a 
surgeon, that the calls upon him for professional service day and 
night would have given full occupation to two more physicians. 
He was well and punctually paid; and although he considered 
himself but a temporary resident, the really pleasant society of 
the mountain city and its fine climate will probably enchain the 
doctor for many years to come. 

I had scarcely shaken off a little of the dust of travel, when 
several of the most prominent of the citizens of Tucuman called 
and begged me to consider their " houses at my disposition." At 
a later hour two gentlemen came to invite us to a ball at the gov- 
ernor's — an honor which, from fatigue, I declined. 

October 29th. Visited the governor, Hon Jose Maria de Campo, 
and was presented by the Minister of State, Senor Pose. Here, 
as in Santiago, I found it quite unnecessary to enter into any ex- 
planation as to the object of my visit to the western states, for 
news of the expedition had preceded my arrival, and the recep- 
tion given me by his Excellency was most flattering. 

On the afternoon of the same day I rode some two and a half 
miles in the country to visit the sugar-plantation of a wealthy 
citizen of Tucuman. This property is between the first step of 
the sierra, west, and the city ; and though the road to it lay 
through what was to the eye a horizontal plain, by observing the 
streams of water, I found that it sloped upward the whole dis- 
tance. After riding over a large part of the estate, which em- 
braced several square leagues, and was irrigated by a network of 
miniature aqueducts, we visited the establishment connected with 
it, from which the Tucumanos derive their chief supplies of sugar, 
rum, and molasses. The machinery used was of the rudest de- 
scription; indeed there was none save upright wooden rollers, 
and there was not only great loss in expressing the saccharine 
matter, but very unnecessary labor and expense incurred in ob- 
taining fuel and removing the refuse cane to a distance. The 
owner of this property seemed to be unaware of a more economi- 
cal system, and expressed some astonishment when I told him 
that in other countries the refuse cane constituted the chief fuel 
on the largest sugar-plantations. The sirup was poured into 

93 



402 DINNER AT SENOR ^AVALIER'S. 

conical jars, placed with, the apex downward, and open, but suf- 
ficiently obstructed to admit of the nitration of the treacle ; leaving 
the sugar a solid mass moulded to the form of the jar, and ready 
for use. The cane is planted in May, and first crop cut in July, 
the following year ; but from this product molasses and rum alone 
are made. 

The country between the Dulce and the serranias west of it is 
most admirably adapted to the culture of the sugar-cane and rice, 
not only from soil and climate, but also from the many and never- 
failing rivulets that intersect it, and from which the most exten- 
sive system of irrigation could be carried out. In the immediate 
vicinity of the city, plantations of one and a half to two leagues, 
possessing every advantage of wood and water, are valued at 
$3000, and they diminish in price in proportion to their distance 
from the capital. Sugar made in the neighborhood is sold in 
Tucuman at twelve and fifteen cents the pound ; but the supply 
is inadequate to the demand. Laborers are as much needed here 
as in other parts of the Confederation, save Santiago ; and, with 
their introduction and that of improved machinery,* the State of 
Tucuman could not only supply the home demand, but that of 
neighboring provinces with sugar and rice. The value of land is 
said to have greatly increased since the adoption of the present 
constitution and the union of the states. Laborers command six 
dollars per month. 

October 30th. I received a visit from Don Sebastiano Zavalier, 
which was followed by an invitation to a dinner at his house, 
where, on the 30th, I met a large company of the leading citizens 
of the place. The remoteness of Tucuman from all other centres 
of civilization, even in La Plata, must be my excuse for alluding 
specially to this entertainment, all the arrangements of which were 
as elegant as could be met with in the well-appointed mansions of 
any country. A variety of native and foreign wines of fine qual- 
ity circulated freely. Our host gave us his toast: "The three 
great epochs in the country's history : the independence, the fall 
of Eosas, and the discovery of the navigability of the Salado." 
Other complimentary speeches and sentiments followed. The 
Constitution of the United States was named as the model after 

* In compliance with a promise made at the time, I have, since my return, sent 
to a gentleman of Tucuman, who was anxious to introduce improved machinery for 
making sugar, cleaning rice, etc., the published catalogue of one of the most ex- 
tensive manufacturers of machinery in this country. 



A RIDE IN THE COUNTRY. 403 

which their own had been framed ; our government as the earli- 
est to recognize their independence ; and our explorations as the 
first to establish the fact of their possessing an outlet to the At- 
lantic by a navigable river. I replied in a speech which was, I 
fear, only remarkable for the indifferent Spanish in which it was 
expressed. After cigars and coffee we repaired to the drawing- 
room — a cool spacious apartment opening upon the patio — where 
I was presented to Senora Zavalier and her two pretty daughters. 
The musical talent of the latter astonished me, for I understood 
the senora to say that these ladies had been educated in Tucuman. 
Their instrumentation was such as is rarely heard in the private 
circles of the United States ; and the piano, which had been trans- 
ported some nine hundred miles or more by ox- wagons, was in 
admirable condition. 

October Slst By appointment I joined Senor Pose, our friend 
the doctor, and several other gentlemen, in an excursion to the 
country. A ride of two or three miles over a part of the plain, 
dotted by a few dwellings, which were generally shaded by fine 
trees, and surrounded by cultivated fields, brought us to the base 
of one of the steps of the Cordillera. Passing through a forest of 
noble trees, which looked as if they might represent a growth of 
many centuries, we reached the unwooded but grassy summit of 
the mountain. Here the landscapes spread out around us, brill- 
iant with the many tints, the light and shadows which in tropical 
countries so enrich the views of nature, were extraordinarily va- 
ried, and in their characteristic elements, we recognized much both 
of the majesty and beauty of creation. West, the snow-capped 
summits of the Catamarca Mountains towered majestically above 
all lesser eminences ; north and south extended a lower range 
longitudinally ; and east was the plain of Tucuman, stretching 
out to those vast and grassy levels through which we had wan- 
dered for so many months. Southward through it flowed the 
Tala or Dulce, its windings marked by a belt of wood, narrowing 
to a mere dark, thread-like line, until, with all other objects, it 
was lost in the blending of clouds and plain in the azure that 
bounded the horizon. At one point only, where the river makes 
a sudden bend east, were its waters visible, sparkling like bur- 
nished metal in the intense light that flooded the plain. The eye 
embraced, within the limits of a few miles, the vegetation of all 
zones. We looked down upon, fields of ceralia, sugar-plantations, 
and orange-groves ; upon rich pasture-lands overspread with herds 



404 ENTERTAINMENT AT THE GOVERNOR'S. 

of cattle ; into a series of valleys, with their miniature river sys- 
tem—a beautiful physical feature, and a beneficent provision for 
the economy of nature in these regions of periodical rains. The 
air was deliciously temperate ; we inhaled the delicious tropical 
aromas ; yet within a short distance of us were regions exhibiting 
all the dreary phenomena of perpetual winter. 

Passing over the serranias by a winding road, we descended 
into a valley watered by a small river, along which extended the 
Estancia San Javier, the property of one of the gentlemen of our 
party, where I passed the night. "We bagged several brace of the 
large partridge, which seemed to be a characteristic bird of the 
country. 

November 2d. Dined at the governor's, where I met several of 
the principal citizens of Tucuman. The dinner was followed by 
a ball. Three rooms were crowded to excess, and many of the 
fairer portion of the guests were well dressed and handsome, 
fully meeting the noblest and most popular idea of the Spanish 
type of beauty. But it is the grace of the women, the suaviter in 
modo of the men, that most astonish a traveler in La Plata ; for 
few of the inhabitants of the interior provinces had enjoyed even 
that intercourse with foreign society which a visit to Buenos 
Ayres would give ; and as books, and especially new boohs, were 
not among their luxuries, they had not even the opportunities 
which they would afford of acquiring a knowledge of the conven- 
tionalities of other countries. 

That vast region conquered by the Spanish of Peru, which ex- 
tended north to the district of Tarifa, south to the Magellanic 
plains, east to the territory of Buenos Ayres, and west to the 
mountains of Chili, now covers the limits of some half dozen of 
the western states of the Confederation. It was first entered in 
1543 by Don Diego Eojas, and some years later by Juan Nunez 
de Prado, who called it Tucuman in honor of Tucumamahao, a 
principal cacique of one of its aboriginal tribes, with whom he 
formed an alliance. The present state of Tucuman is one of the 
smallest in the Confederation ; but from its varied and productive 
soil, noble physical features, and amenity of climate, it perhaps 
merits the proud appellation it enjoys, " Garden of the United 
Provinces." The hostility of savages and intestine wars have not 
been the only calamities of the western provinces. They have 
been disturbed by convulsions of nature — inundations and earth- 
quakes — which have caused many changes in the face of the coun- 



THE CITY AND PROVINCE OF TUCUMAN. 405 

try. San Miguel de Tucuman was founded in 1565 by Don Diego 
de Villarpel on a branch of the Dulce, about twelve miles from 
the site of the present town, whither the inhabitants removed in 
1685, in consequence of an inundation which swept away a large 
part of the old capital. 

In 1814 an earthquake, which was felt over an immense tract 
of country, extending through two or three of the west provinces, 
did some injury to the city of Tucuman, which stands on a well- 
wooded fertile plain, in latitude' 26° 51'* south, longitude, ap- 
proximately, 66° west, and is supposed to contain at this time 
twelve thousand inhabitants. Its narrow streets intersect each 
other at right angles. Many of the houses are brick and very 
spacious, inclosing patios or courts ; some few have altos, or second 
stories. The cathedral, which is upon the plaza, is being remod- 
eled ; and, judging from the design, it will, when completed, be an 
imposing church edifice. There were also several private resi- 
dences in course of construction. Indeed, the whole town pre- 
sented an aspect of progress and prosperity ; and I was induced 
to believe, from the tone which seemed to pervade society, that 
there was a fixed determination among the most respectable mem- 
bers of the community to sustain a constitutional government, a 
union of the states, the maintenance of peace, and the adoption of 
energetic measures to develop the resources of the state. The 
first step was to encourage the immigration of an industrial popu- 
lation. 

Among other new enterprises, a vivacious, energetic French- 
man, notwithstanding the expense and difficulties of obtaining ice 
from the mountains by mule transportation, furnished the Tucu- 
manos with an abundant supply of excellent water and cream ices. 

The province is divided into nine departments or districts, the 
aggregate population of which, at the present time, amounts to 
8.8,511 souls, of whom there are 23,128 men, and 27,877 women, 
an excess of 4749 women.f This arises from the numerous civil 
wars in which the Confederation was involved from the period 
of its independence to the downfall of Eosas. Among the chil- 
dren, the excess, though small — 700 — is in favor of males. The 
value of products for the year 1854 was 1,755,250 dollars, of 
which the value of 847,000 dollars was consumed in the prov- 
ince, and the remainder in the neighboring states. The principal 

* Determined by Mr. Murdaugh. 

f From statistical information furnished by the Minister of State. 



406 TOBACCO CULTURE. 

products are corn, tobacco, wheat, sugar, rice, rum, tides, sole- 
leather, tanned calf-skins, cattle, woolen fabrics, oranges, cheese, 
carretas, and a number of minor manufactured articles. The mar- 
ket price of some of these articles for 1854 was kindly furnished 
me by the governor's minister, Don Jose Pose: Corn, 50 cents 
per bushel ; tobacco, 8 cents the pound ; wheat, 80 cents the bush- 
el ; sugar, 12 cents the pound ; rice, 3 cents ; rum (carta), $17 the 
barrel ; hides, $1 50 each ; sole-leather, $4 the skin ; calf-skin, 
tanned, $2 ; carretas, $50 each. Of these the principal articles of 
trade with the neighboring provinces are cattle, hides, leather, 
carretas, manufactured articles of wool, tobacco, corn, rum, and 
sugar. 

I present also an estimate, derived from a reliable source, of the 
expenses incident to the purchase and cultivation of a quadra* of 
land, inclosed in the usual manner by a ditch or cactus hedge, 
and the probable receipts of the same from the cultivation of to- 
bacco. The cost of the land assumed in this case is unusually 
great, and must be received as an indication that the position is 
very desirable. 

Cost of land inclosed $50 00 

Four plows complete, at $4 1600 

Eight oxen accustomed to plow, at $20 . . . 160 00 

One carreta, or wagon 30 00 

Two sheds for tobacco 120 00 

Necessary implements 2400 

Total cost $400 00 

Charges on $400 at 12 per cent $48 00 

Three laborers, 8 months, at $8 per month . . . 192 00 
One laborer during the year, $8 per month . . . 96 00 

Storage of tobacco . 100 00 

Tax on a quadra of land 2 00 

Total expenses $438 00 

The product of a quadra of land in tobacco, 500 arobas, at)^ 1nnA nrt 

$2, or 12,000 pounds at 8 cents | ^ iUUU UU 

From which deduct the expenses 43800 

And we have the net remainder $562 00 

After a week's sojourn at Tucuman, having obtained such ob- 
servations as the means at my disposal admitted — for the chro- 
nometer had failed to maintain such a regularity of rate as to give 

* One hundred and fifty yards square. 



JOURNEY TO SALTA. 407 

satisfactory results — on the 4th of November, at 10 o'clock A.M., 
I started for Salta. 

In my journeys in those provinces I observed that the most 
wretched-looking horses were furnished us in starting from the 
large towns. Those given us at Tucuman were no exception; 
but I had learned to disregard appearances. With the sierra of 
Candelaria upon the right, our road lay through the broad valley, 
which was seen at a distance in approaching Tucuman ; it was 
intersected by several streams ; soil sandy, with some cultivation 
of wheat; but country sparsely populated for fourteen leagues. 
From this we passed into a second valley, Bepos, verdant, fertile, 
well watered, and enameled by luxuriant fields of wheat; its 
whole aspect contrasting impressively with the rugged sierras 
which bound it on either side. The habitations of adobe, thatch- 
ed with grass, resembled country houses of Santiago, but were 
entirely unlike those in the southern part of the province. 

At sunset we reached the Posta Asequion, having thus, not- 
withstanding the late hour at which we left Tucuman — 10 o'clock 
A.M. — made twenty leagues. The soil between the two last 
postas, a distance of six leagues, was light and sandy. I was 
therefore astonished to learn from the master of the posta that 
the product of wheat was about fifty-six for one, that is, from the 
seed of one almude they reap seven cargas* I suppose my man- 
ner implied a doubt, for he enforced his assertion with great ear- 
nestness: " Si, Senor, es verdadP 

It is very difficult to obtain information from the country peo- 
ple themselves as to the capacity of the soil. When I asked the 
simple questions, "What quantity of wheat will you reap from the 
seed of an almude or fanega ? Upon how much land will you sow 
that quantity of seed?" they were generally answered with an im- 
patient u Non se, Senor ;" while the countenance of the individual 
questioned, indicated either astonishment or irritation. My own 
impression is that, where naturally or artificially watered, the 
fruitfulness of the valleys is excessive, though the soil is light. 

At Asequion I fixed my bedding, horse-blanket and poncho,, 
upon a bench made of half a tree, within the posta, a miserable 
ranch of one room, ten by twelve, where I had as neighbors the 
master, his wife, cat, chickens, etc. But I soon repented of my 
boldness, for though assured that tltere were no fleas, I was at- 
tacked on all sides by vermin, and gladly made my escape with 

* A carga, in this province, is equal to eight almudes. 



408 DISCOMFORTS OF TRAVELING. 

the dawn of day. The total absence of every comfort and neglect 
of the smallest preparation for the accommodation of travelers at 
these postas is a reproach to the beautiful province of Tucuman. 
The horses furnished us were the most wretched-looking animals 
I had yet seen in the Confederation ; but, as an evidence that the 
stock is not bad, I must observe that when they did not actually 
break down they exhibited both strength and speed. The in- 
habitants of the country seemed to have no idea of time, and, 
when assured that horses would be ready at daylight, I always 
knew that we might expect them four hours later. I have often 
thought that if some enterprising Yankee clock-peddler would 
penetrate into those regions, and induce the purchase of his 
wares, he would be a national benefactor. 

We got off at half past seven, although we had ordered the 
horses at four, and reached Tala, six leagues, in one hour and a 
half. A few minutes before arriving at this place, we forded the 
river of the same name, in the characteristics of which, at this dis- 
tance west, I found but few changes. Its wide bed was intersect- 
ed by sand-shoals, and the banks on either side were fringed with 
a dense growth of algorroba and tala. "We had, before reaching 
this stream, entered the province of Salta, but what course the 
division line takes I was unable to learn ; for unless the bounda- 
ries of the provinces are denned by some prominent physical fea- 
ture, they are entirely unknown. 

From this point we had the choice of two routes to Salta ; one 
through the plains, the camino carril (cart road) ; the other, el ca- 
mino de las cuestas (road of the hills). With the assurance that 
there was no difficulty in procuring horses I took the latter, in- 
tending to return by the plains. At the Posta Antonio Lopez, 
said to be three leagues from Tala, actually but two, we began 
the ascent of the mountains, but a thick mist that enveloped us 
like a mantle, and a drizzling rain, deprived me of the enjoyment 
I had anticipated from the scenery. The path, at the beginning 
of the ascent narrow and slippery, became more difficult as we 
advanced, and toward the summit was in some places really 
frightful. Our horses frequently lost foothold upon the smooth 
rock, and would slide some distance before regaining their feet. 
Sometimes the path was barely wide enough for a single horse- 
man, with a perpendicular wall of rock rising for several hund- 
red feet on one side, and a precipice of equal depth on the oth- 
er ; here the animals seemed to brace themselves, and cautiously 



ROMERO.— SAUSE. 409 

moved on as if fully aware that one false step would precipitate 
us into the depths below. After an unpleasant ride of two hours 
and a half, with the constant apprehension of a slide that would 
send us into the abyss, we reached at sunset the summit of the 
mountain, and stopped for the night at the Posta Eomero. Cold, 
wet, and tired, I had made a miserable anchorage, but improved 
matters a little by the promise of ample pay to the old woman at 
the posta, and a good supper to, our postillions, who preferred 
this port to a night's ride in returning. They soon built up a 
blazing fire, and with a kid from the post-master's flock, coffee and 
cigars from our stores, we had a good supper, and smoked our- 
selves and the whole party into good humor. 

An accomplished entomologist would have found varied objects 
of interest in this ranch, within which the heavy rain obliged us 
to spread our blankets. Insects innumerable, armies of vermin, 
attacked us front, flank, and rear, until, maddened by the on- 
slaught, I charged into the open air, and escaped the enemy by 
making my bed upon the wet ground. 

At an early hour we continued our journey, passing along the 
ridges of the cuestas, with a bright, clear, invigorating atmosphere, 
and enjoyed excessively the varied scenery of mountains from 
base to summit clothed with grass, of valleys bright with herbage 
and watered by many rivulets, over which projected huge masses 
and cliffs of reddish sandstone. 

Four leagues from Romero we reached Sause, where we met 
the most uncivil people }^et seen in the course of my travels. A 
post-road formerly passed this place, and, although abandoned by 
the government, it is still used by travelers, and we had been as- 
sured that we would here meet with better horses than any yet 
seen. But there were none for us. I saw through this move ; 
it was an attempt — and one of rare occurrence — to extort money ; 
for the sum I offered, although double the postal charge, did not 
meet- their expectations. ■ Directing the postillions to follow, I 
coolly moved off on the Romero horses, leaving our friend the 
the post-master, with folded arms and an astonished air, to medi- 
tate upon my obstinacy. The postillion complained, but with the 
promise of extra pay became reconciled to extra duty. 

Five leagues from Sause we entered a grassy valley, or, more 
properly, a basin ; for although a league in diameter, viewed from 
any point, it seemed entirely surrounded by mountains. Through 
it flowed eastwardly a considerable stream, the "Rio del Pampa," 



410 CHARIQUL— SAUSE. 

which, from its course and volume of water, I should suppose 
must be a tributary of the Salado. 

We arrived at the Posta Chariqui early in the afternoon ; but, 
owing to the absence of the master, who did not reach home until 
after night, we were unable to proceed ; for I was unwilling to 
subject to a more severe test either the temper of our postillion 
or the strength of the horses, upon which we had traveled over 
mountain roads ten leagues. In this neighborhood I saw some 
excellent fields of wheat, good houses, and small flocks of sheep. 
The post-master was civil, obliging, and punctual to his word ; for 
at dawn he was off in search of horses, and in a reasonable time 
we were ascending a rugged sierra, near the summit of which was 
a miserable hovel, the Posta Alimana. The appearance and man- 
ners of the master were as rugged as the rocks among which he 
was domiciled. He was, he said, wretchedly poor, could give us 
nothing to eat, and could furnish no horses. When informed that 
we would pay for all accommodation ; that for five horses, three 
saddle and two cargaro animals, with a postillion to each, I would 
pay — " How much?" he asked, eagerly. " One real" — double the 
usual charge — his memory was suddenly refreshed, and he re- 
membered that he could give us all we wanted. A boiled fowl 
defied knives and teeth ; but with soup and masamora (hominy), 
served in a wooden bowl, we made a satisfactory meal. In fine 
spirits we began the descent of the mountain, through rocky ra- 
vines ; and at a distance of six leagues entered the plain, and were 
again upon the regular line of postas. 

No traveler should follow this route during the rainy season, 
for a slip or false step of his horse at certain points — and of these 
there are several — would inevitably be certain death. For the 
same reason he should so regulate his departure from the postas 
as not to be on the road at night. 

Soon after reaching the plain we passed the settlement of Sause, 
and, two miles beyond, entered a broad, lovely valley, Chigua- 
no, bounded west by the main sierra, a continuation of the range 
seen at Cordova and afterward at Tucuman, and east by a spur 
of the first. Through this valley flowed the upper waters of the 
river we had been exploring — the Salado — here known as the 
San Carlos ; a little lower as Guaychipas ; lower still as the Pasa- 
je ; and finally Salado — a name which, as we have shown, it main- 
tains from the Province of Santiago to the Parana. The whole 
country exhibited the most cheering evidences of man's industry. 



AREIVAL AT SALTA. 4H 

The cultivation of wheat was extensive, and near Guaychipas — a 
village of well-built houses — figs, grapes, and peaches were grow- 
ing in perfection. 

November Sth. Forded the Guaychipas, here divided by a nar- 
row strip of land, which at the season of high water is inundated. 
The main branch has a width of about eighty yards ; banks six 
feet above the water-level. 

After passing this stream our road lay north through the same 
valley for a distance of fourteen leagues. The country was well 
watered and cultivated in wheat, corn, tobacco, sugar-cane, and 
cotton. Wheat, owing to the humidity of the atmosphere, is sub- 
ject to a disease similar to that known with us as the rust ; but 
hi good seasons the average yield is from twenty to thirty for one, 
and for home consumption it commands readily one dollar and 
sixty cents the bushel. The other articles named as products 
were cultivated to a limited extent, but with such success as to 
demonstrate fully the admirable adaptation of soil and climate to 
their growth. 

November 9th. Near the Posta las Percas, distant eight leagues 
from Salta, we crossed the dry bed of the Eiver Eosario, which is 
during the rainy season a rapid stream ; it is a tributary of the 
Guaychipas. The direction of the valley was still north. 

The sun was setting when we left Percas, but by a little extra 
compensation I persuaded the master to allow us to continue on 
with the same horses to Salta. When within one mile of the city 
we forded the Eiver Arias, another tributary of the Guaychipas. 
It was too dark to obtain any correct idea of its characteristics, 
except that it seemed to be a considerable stream. We reached 
Salta at 10 o'clock P.M. 



412 A NIGHT AT A ZAMBO. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

A Night at a Zambo. — Messrs. Pelacio. — Acts of Courtesy. — Province of Salta. — 
Population. — Products. — Salinas. — The Capital. — Advantages of Salado Nav- 
igation. — Mules. — Leather and Wool. — Trees. — The Pacaray. — Silk Kolls. — 
Wheat. — Copper. — Governor. — Music and Dancing. — Exiled Bolivians. — Revo- 
lutionary state of Bolivia. — Departure from Salta. — Tropas of Asses. — Lake 
Cabo. — Simbola. — Rivers Pasaje and Las Piedras. — Forests. — Little Use of Milk 
in La Plata. — Forest of Sevil. — Don Martin Guemes. — Breakfast in the Forest. — 
Stage-coach. — Ferry-boats. — Beauty of Country. — Arrival at Tucuman. — Horse- 
back Travel. — Gaucho Life. — Visit from the Governor. — Map of the Province of 
Tucuman. — Farewell to Friends in Tucuman. — Day's Ride. — Dulce Boat. — San- 
tiago and Reception at the Governor's. — Head Waters of the Salado. — Laboring 
Classes in Santiago. — Hospitality of Spanish- Americans. — Harvest. — Narrow 
Escape. — Horses. — A Cordova Posta. — Fined for fast Riding. — Leave Cordova. 
— Return Route across the Pampas. — Galera from Rosario. — Diligencia. — River 
Tercero.— Tropa of Mules from San Juan. — River Quarto. — Fording the Quarto. 
— Pop-corn Party. — Division Line between Cordova and Santa Fe. — Postillion. 
— Growth of Rosario. — British Consul. — Farther Examinations of La Plata 
Channels. — Preparations for Departure. — Letters of Recall. — Boatswain's Call. 
— Germantown. — Lieutenant Ridgely. — Home. 

There is no hotel in Salta, and, profiting by the experience of 
the past, I determined at once to deliver the letters of a Santiago 
friend to his relatives, the Messrs. Pelacio. On riding up to their 
residence we were told that all the gentlemen of the family were 
at the theatre. The postillion then suggested a zambo, a sort of 
" drover's stand," where mule-drivers stop for shelter only, as they 
travel with their own supplies of food, blankets, etc. It was a 
large one-storied building, surrounded by a court, upon which 
opened all the rooms, which were evidently designed originally 
for a more elegant purpose. With an air of great self-satisfaction 
the master showed us an apartment carpeted with the accumula- 
ted dust of months, gracefully hung with cobwebs, and luxuri- 
ously furnished with an old table on three legs, to which were 
added, for our particular accommodation, two chairs. With this 
service he seemed to think he had met every reasonable demand, 
and I had been too long a wanderer in the wilderness to be dainty ; 
so we took possession, spread our blankets on the bricks, and then 
sallied forth in search of a cafe, where we obtained an excellent 
supper. 

November Wtli. Don Santiago Pelacio and his brother, who call- 



PROVINCE OF SALTA. 413 

ed at an early hour, were much amused and provoked at the 
wretched accommodation of our first night in Salta, and insisted 
upon my returning with them to their house. This visit was fol- 
lowed immediately by one from the brother of Senora Zavalier, 
whose husband was absent, claiming us as her guests ; for, having 
heard of my intended visit, she had prepared rooms for us. This 
lady had, two years before the period of my visit to Salta, been 
offered a passage on the Water Witch from Eosario to Parana, 
and now desired to show her appreciation of this little act of 
courtesy. After much amicable discussion between the two par- 
ties, it was arranged that I should go to Sefior Pelacio's, but 
each day of my stay at Salta should breakfast, dine, or sup with 
the senora. 

Salta is divided into three departments, Salta, Jujuy, and Oran, 
and is supposed to contain a population of sixty thousand souls. 
The climate of the valleys is more humid and perhaps less salu- 
brious than that of Tucuman ; but the Saltenos likewise boast 
that, within the limits of their state, they possess the vegetation 
of all zones. While one department yields the products of the 
tropics, another has the fruits and the grains of a temperate re- 
gion ; and again, there are districts where the cold is intense, and 
mountains rise to the height of perpetual snow — districts extra- 
ordinarily rich in mineral treasures,* and abounding in many 
species of animal life particularly useful to man, such as the ala- 
paca, vicuna, guanaco, and chinchilla. This state has also vast 
salinas, from which the salt, hard and granulated, is cut in great 
blocks. But the most productive mines have been, and still are, 
its pasture-lands, watered by mountain streams. To this prov- 
ince, as to Santiago, are brought vast numbers of young mules 
from the eastern states, to be fattened for the Bolivian and Pe- 
ruvian markets — a business yielding enormous profits where pur- 
sued with energy. 

The capital contains about ten thousand inhabitants, and is situ- 
ated in the valley through which we had traveled for four days 
(Chiguano), which extends beyond it with still a direction north, 
and a scarce perceptible rise. With its tile-roofed and stuccoed 
houses of two stories Salta presents very much the appearance of 
an old Spanish city ; but it is by no means in a state of dilapida- 
tion, for, in point of commercial activity and enterprise, notwith- 

* Gold is said to be abundant in the elevated districts of this province bordering 
on Atacarma. 



414 TKADE OF SALTA. 

standing its remote position, it is ahead of all other towns of the 
Confederation except Eosario. 

The opening of the Salado had excited here even more enthu- 
siasm than in other places, and so well satisfied were the inhabit- 
ants of the advantages to arise from it, that before I left an asso- 
ciation was formed for the purchase of suitable boats, to memo- 
rialize the general government to remove all obstructions to nav- 
igation, and to purchase lands at suitable points on the river. 

Although it is not possible to bring navigation to their door, 
it will shorten the land carriage four fifths, compared with the 
present transportation to Eosario, reduce the round trip from 
eight and ten months to two, and the expenses to one half the 
present rate. It will enable this province to send to market man y 
valuable articles, such as hides and wool, which now, from their 
bulk, form no part of her exports, and will also induce the whole 
of her trade, whether of imports or exports, to be conducted 
through the ports of the Confederation ; whereas now the chief 
portion is carried on through Cobija. The time consumed, and 
the expenses of trips from this Pacific port are less than from 
Eosario ; and English goods designed for these interior markets, 
by way of the west coast, are put up in bales specially adapted to 
mule carriage. The expenses from Cobija are $1 50 to $2 00, 
from Eosario $2 00 to $2 50 the aroba. The load of each mule is 
generally from twelve to fourteen arobas (300 to 350 pounds) ; 
some will bear eighteen arobas. Most marvelous accounts were 
given me of the strength and power of endurance of these little 
animals; one carried a piano from Cobija to Chuquisaca, now 
Sucre; another, a printing-press, weighing twenty-three arobas, 
from the same port to Salta. 

The staple export of this province is leather ; but. its wool will 
probably be much in demand for foreign markets. North, bor- 
dering on Jujuy, where the country is undulating, the lomas, 
dry, bare of trees, and covered with short grass, the sheep are 
of extraordinary size, and yield a wool of very superior qual- 
ity. I purchased a skin, and although it was larger than any I 
had ever before seen, with a fine staple six inches long, I was told 
by several persons that it was an indifferent specimen, that the 
wool was usually eight inches in length, and that an ordinary 
sheep would yield six pounds of washed wool, and frequently 
eight or ten pounds, the price of which for home consumption is 
six dollars per hundred. 



WOODS AND MINEKALS. 415 

Among the varied arboreal treasures of this state may be named 
the pacaray, a lofty, noble tree, the wood of which is said to be in- 
destructible in water, and yet its specific gravity is scarcely great- 
er than that of our white pine. The lapacho, urunday, and que- 
bracho also abound ; and to these may be added the palo boracho 
or yachun, which, though not valuable as timber, yields a material 
that may at some future day enter extensively into manufacturing 
enterprises. This tree is covered, with large silken bolls, in ap- 
pearance very like the cotton-boll, but quadruple its size. I 
brought home some and a table-cover of it, which, though made 
by hand in Bolivia, will give a fair idea of the fabrics into which 
this material could be converted.* In the manufacture of hats it 
will doubtless be much prized. The inner bark of the tree has 
the properties and answers the purpose of the finest quality of 
soap. Its trunk is shaped very like a wine-pipe, the difference in 
the lesser and greater diameter being much greater in the tree than 
in the pipe. 

Wheat, sugar-cane, cotton, tobacco, etc., are all produced, but 
only for home consumption. From the excessive humidity the 
wheat is indifferent and subject to pulvo (rust). 

ISTo geological survey has yet been made of the mineral districts 
of the state, but the copper ore in the neighborhood of Oran is 
known to be abundant and rich. The opening of the Salaclo will, 
as I have shown, doubtless benefit Salta ; but its direct outlet to 
the Parana is by the Vermejo,f when the President of Paraguay 
will abandon his assumed opposition to its navigation. 

I remained at Salta five days, but the weather was such that 
neither by day nor night could observations be obtained. 

On the 11th, the day after my arrival, I called upon the gover- 
nor, who, being ill, regretted much that he could not offer me the 
hospitalities of the government-house. I saw much of Senora 
Zavalier, at whose hospitable residence our visits were made par 
ticularly agreeable by the frequent reunion of a large and inter- 
esting family circle. The nieces of my kind entertainers, the 
Messrs. Pelacio, played most charmingly on the piano. These 
young girls had not only superb voices, but sang like artists; 
and yet their mother told me that the only opportunities of mu- 

* This cover is now in the possession of a friend. 

f By a letter from Bolivia I have learned that a company has been formed for 
the navigation of the Vermejo, having received special privileges from the Argen- 
tine Government. 



416 EXILED BOLIVIANS. 

sical education afforded them had been those attainable at Salta 
and Tucuman. 

I have several times, in the course of this narrative, alluded to 
the excessive love and talent for dancing common to all classes in 
La Plata. A taste for music must likewise be a characteristic ; 
for not only had each town its well-trained band, but every vil- 
lage and posta j.ts guitarist or harpist. Yet there are undoubted- 
ly fair ladies in the Confederation who neither dance, play, nor 
sing, by inspiration. My son, when at the College of Concepcion 
del Uruguay, saw one of the belles of the neighborhood, at an 
early hour of the morning, practicing the dance, under the direc- 
tion of her mother ; and the instrumental and vocal accomplish- 
ments of the ladies of Tucuman and Salta were such as could 
only have been acquired by the union of talent and hard study. 
Neither are the women of that country inactive in domestic life. 
In Paraguay, as in the states of the Confederation, the wives and 
daughters of the richest estancieros seemed to occupy themselves 
energetically in all household duties. The wealthy proprietor of 
the sugar-plantation which I visited near Tucuman told me that 
during the busy season he resided entirely in the country, where 
his two daughters alternately passed a week with him and took 
charge of the domestic department, and on the occasion of my vis- 
it, one of them, a handsome girl, with unaffected grace handed us 
the mate. 

Eesiding in Salta were several distinguished exiled Bolivians, 
among whom was General Santa Cruz, who had for some years 
represented his country at the French court. A revolution had 
occurred during his absence, and President Belzu would not per- 
mit him to return to Bolivia, but had again offered him the mis- 
sion to France, which he declined, and was now awaiting the op- 
portunity to return which some expected political changes would 
offer. I also again met here Colonel Hilarion Ortiz, one of the 
officers who had descended the Paraguay with us. Colonel Ortiz 
seemed to remember gratefully this little act of kindness. 

Though told at Tucuman that Bolivia was threatened with an- 
other revolution, that Linares* was upon her borders, and that a 
strong party favorable to him was merely awaiting the oppor- 
tunity to overthrow those in power, I had, even up to the pe- 
riod of my arrival at Salta, indulged the hope of proceeding to 
explore — by descending — the Kiver Pilcomayo. But the infor- 

* This gentleman is now President of the Eepublic. 



DEPARTURE FROM SALTA, 417 

mation now obtained of the condition of the country induced me 
to abandon this intention. To have carried out' my views suc- 
cessfully would have required all the facilities and security the 
government could afford; and though each and all parties might 
favor a design which would confer a great national benefit, I knew 
well the difficulties I must contend with, from- the jealousies of op- 
posing factions, and the distraction of an actual revolution. 

On the 14th of November I again turned my face eastward by 
the Camino Carril, accompanied for some miles from Salta by 
several of its citizens and Colonel Ortiz. Crossing a spur of the 
sierra, which forms the eastern boundary of Chiguano, we passed 
into another pretty valley and stopped at the Posta Sagumilla, 
which is distant three leagues from the capital. 

On the way we saw a large tropa of burros (asses), some stag- 
gering under loads of sevil bark, others with fire- wood, of which 
each animal carried fifty sticks of two feet by about three inches, 
worth, on reaching the city, twenty -five cents the load. 

One of the most pleasing interruptions to the monotony of our 
return journey across the pampas was to meet vast tropas of these 
animals waddling along under loads of produce or merchandise, 
and so completely enveloped in packs that nothing but heads and 
legs were visible. 

By a rough road we descended into another pretty valley, and 
stopped at the dirty village of Cabo, where a little sugar is made 
in the most primitive manner; and from the sugar-cane is pro- 
duced a pleasant fermented drink called guarapi. The surround- 
ing country was sparsely cultivated, but clothed with a luxuriant 
indigenous vegetation. 

After much delay in obtaining horses we started at sunset, and 
by 8 o'clock A.M. had made our stopping-place for the night at 
Simbola, four leagues from Cabo. The postas of Salta are the most 
wretchedly comfortless places that can be imagined, and the horses 
very indifferent ; for, at the period of our journey, they were but 
little used save for the transmission of the mail. Those who can 
afford it — which class includes all who travel — do so with their 
own horses, servants, and cargaro animals. They select a shady 
spot for the noonday meal and siesta, and stop for the night at the 
pleasantest place they can find. 

The ground around Simbola was sp broken and rocky that we 
could with difficulty find six feet of level upon which to spread 

27 



418 MILK A POISON. 

our blankets. After a miserable night, started for Pasaje (nine 
leagues), which we made in two hours. 

November 16th. Grot off at 7 o'clock and crossed the Eiver Pasa- 
je, which courses a few hundred yards from a posta of the same 
name. I saw this river at low water, but its depth was from two 
to three feet, with evidences of a rise when swollen of over twelve. 
The road lay very much along its south bank, in an easterly di- 
rection for nine leagues, when it turned more directly south, and 
we crossed a narrow but rapid stream, " Las Piedras," which a 
little beyond this empties into the Pasaje. 

Learning from the post-master that the country bordering the 
upper waters of the Salado was populous and well cultivated, I 
sent Mr. Murdaugh from this place, with directions to follow the 
course of that river from Miraflores — a capilla four leagues below 
Las Piedras — to the Estancia Taboado,* and to rejoin me at Sant- 
iago. 

November 17th. From the Posta las Piedras we had a view — 
north of the Pasaje — of the eastern termination of the sierra whose 
spurs and valleys we had been passing since leaving Salta : from 
this point the Pasaje enters the pampas. 

The mountains were here behind us, and for some leagues our 
way lay through a level' country, extensively wooded with que- 
bracho Colorado and cevil. There was no undergrowth in these 
forests, and the earth was clothed with the freshest young turf. 
At a distance of five leagues we made Pueblito Conchas, a little 
posta on the north side of a stream of the same name. In this 
neighborhood was some cultivation of sugar-cane ; and in the vil- 
lage, to my astonishment, a large tannery in course of erection by 
an enterprising Frenchman. I wished to purchase a bottle of 
cana ; the price was one dollar for the liquor and fifty cents for 
the bottle, from which I judged that both bottles and cana were 
scarce articles in this district. We made a hearty breakfast on 
bread and milk, the latter to me always a luxury, and in La Plata 
not always obtainable. 

In these pastoral regions nothing astonished me more than the 
small use of milk, and even its avoidance in the preparation of 
food. Among the cattle recaptured by the soldiers in their ex- 
pedition against the Indians were some milch cows ; but in all 
that body of men — about one hundred and fifty — Murdaugh and 
Cornelius were the only individuals, besides myself, who tasted 

* It will be remembered that our little boat was launched at this estancia. 



AN ESTANCIERO. 419 

milk. Upon one occasion I told a lady of Santiago that peaches 
(they are excellent in the neighborhood of that city) served with 
cream were a delicious and favorite dessert in the United States. 
Had I assured her that a dish of rattlesnakes was with our peo- 
ple the greatest table delicacy possible, her countenance could not 
have expressed more perfect horror and astonishment as she ex- 
claimed, " Senor Commandante, no es possible! Es venino (It is not 
possible ! It is poison)." My pretty young friend was so ear- 
nest that I laughed heartily, then discussed the subject with all 
due gravity, and the fair senorita promised me that at the next 
season of peaches she would try the smallest bit of one with cream. 

From Conchas to Paso Grande the country was level, fertile, 
and intersected by two small streams, the Mitan and Yatasto, nei- 
ther of which reaches the Pasaje except during the rainy season, 
which had now set in. In this district no artificial irrigation is 
necessary for the sugar-cane. For many miles the road lay through 
a magnificent forest of cevil, where trees of great size and unen- 
cumbered by undergrowth or climbing plants were growing with 
all the regularity and symmetry of plantations. The ground be- 
neath, as far as the eye could reach, was clothed with the bright- 
est, freshest, cleanest turf, upon which the sun, glancing through 
the dense masses of foliage, fell in golden lines and many-tinted 
figures, relieving the forest from all gloom, without detracting from 
its imposing grandeur. 

Before leaving the last posta I overtook a traveler with his 
servants and cargaro mules. From his appearance and the style 
of his equipments I at once recognized him as an estanciero (a 
country gentleman). As if moved at the same moment by the 
same impulse — a desire to join company — lie quickened his pace 
and I slackened mine, until we were side by side ambling along 
through these magnificent natural parks. He seemed to know 
who I was, introduced himself as Don Martin Guemes, and invited 
me to stop on the road at the Yatasto river, and join him in an 
" asado of coidero" (roast kid). Sending Cornelius ahead with the 
postillion to Yerde, the next posta, to get his breakfast and have 
fresh horses ready, I accepted the invitation. Having reached the 
appointed spot, we seated ourselves upon the grass round quite 
an elaborate repast, consisting of a well-cooked asado, cheese, 
bread, and dulces' from the stores of Don Martin, who presided 
with all the dignified gravity of a hidalgo dispensing the hospital- 
ities of an ancestral mansion. This gentleman was young, hand- 



420 



THE FIRST STAGE-COACH. 



some, and, as I afterward learned, an estanciero of very large pos- 
sessions. His mode of traveling illustrates that of the inhabitants 
generally. At Yerde I parted from my friend of an hour, and, 
finding horses ready, mounted, and was off in a few minutes. 




AN ESTANOIERO. 



Two leagues from this crossed the Kosario, a small stream, show- 
ing unmistakable marks of being a considerable river during the 
rainy season. A league farther on was the pueblito of Kosario, 
consisting of a few scattering houses, a plaza, and church ; and 
three leagues beyond this was the estancia of my friend Don 
Martin Giiemes. At eight o'clock we reached the Posta Arenal ; 
the country in its vicinity sandy, as the name indicates. A few 
minutes before I had met the stage-coach from Tucuman for Salta, 
the first attempt at this description of conveyance as yet ever made 
in this province, all travel between the two cities having hereto- 
fore been made on horseback. This will necessarily lead to an- 
other innovation and improvement, the establishment of a ferry- 
boat at the Pasaje, for during the season of high water the river 
can not be forded. I described to some persons at Salta the means 
used where the current is made the motive power. The simplici- 
ty of the contrivance seemed to please them much ; a ferry-boat 



EETURN TO TUCUMAN. 421 

of such construction will probably supersede the unsafe hide balsa, 
and make the Pasaje passable at all seasons of the year. 

After an excellent supper we spread blankets and saddle-gear 
on the young grass, and though spared the annoyance of musqui- 
toes or posta vermin, found it so chilly that I could not sleep ; 
for, notwithstanding the intense heat of the day, the nights were 
very cool. 

November 18th. The air was deliciously fresh, and under its in- 
vigorating influence we were astir at an early hour of the morn- 
ing, and dashing at full speed over the lomas. Thence we passed 
into a pretty green valley from which the lands rose west, with 
the regularity of steps, in successive eminences to the sierra, 
while a detached range bounded the valley east for a distance of 
six miles. Here our road again led over broken lomas — to the 
Posta Tala, the point of junction of the Camino de las Cuestas 
and El Camino Carril; the first being the route taken on our 
road to Salta. From this point we made directly for Tucuman. 
where I arrived at 9 P.M., having ridden one hundred and five 
miles since leaving Arenal in the morning. The distances were 
generally six leagues, but twice during the day I rode from posta 
to posta, eighteen miles, in one and a quarter hours. 

I had imagined that I was beginning to like the wild indepen- 
dence of the gaucho life — grassy bed, saddle-gear bedding, cano- 
pied by the heavens — but I must confess that, after a ride of the 
above distance for two successive days, most thankfully did' I ap- 
preciate and enjoy all the comforts of Dr. Priestly 's house, and most 
gratefully do I recall his cordial welcome. 

November 19th. At an early hour paid my respects to the gov- 
ernor and minister, and when I returned to the doctor's found 
that several citizens had already called, and in the course of the 
morning came all the acquaintances made during my first visit to 
welcome me back. 

November 20th. Received a visit from the governor and his 
minister. I had been advised to return to Santiago through the 
south of Tucuman, a district watered by the Dulce, and represent- 
ed to me as not only beautiful in natural scenery, but as populous 
and highly cultivated, and was told that if I would adopt this 
route the government would provide me with horses and other 
facilities for travel within the limit of its own province, aad would 
also arrange for them with that, of Santiago. The governor now 
expressed his regret that for want of time only these arrange- 



422 SANTIAGO. 

ments had not been made, and gave me statistics of the popula- 
tion, products, and a rough pen-sketch of the rivers and mountain 
streams that empty into the Dulce within the limits of the prov- 
ince. He also showed me a chart exhibiting the different dis- 
tricts, which, though roughly made, gave a very fair idea of the 
physical features of Tucuman. 

November 21st. Yesterday said farewell to my friends, and this 
morning, for the last time, shook the hand of Dr. Priestly, feeling 
all the regret of parting with an old friend. At 8 o'clock A.M. 
we dashed off from Tucuman at the rate of twelve miles an hour, 
which speed we maintained from posta to posta throughout the 
day. At sunset we had made one hundred and five miles, and 
would have reached Santiago, only thirty-five miles distant, the 
same evening but for the swollen state of the Dulce, which I 
should have been compelled to cross in a hide balsa, and at that 
hour would have found some difficulty in getting men from the 
opposite side to ferry me over. I did not feel fatigued, which 
may be attributed more to the exceeding purity of the air than to 
the easy gait of the horses, and could have made the whole dis- 
tance between the two cities, one hundred and forty miles, by sun- 
down, had I left Tucuman at an earlier hour in the morning. I 
was told that this ride had been made but once before, and then 
in the transmission of some important political intelligence. 

November 22c?. The horses swam over, and we crossed the Dulce 
at an early hour in the one boat of the western province — our pic- 
nic yacht, the "Animal of the Salado 11 — the little craft in which 
we had toiled so many days in descending the Salado from Estan- 
cia Taboado. It had been brought back to Santiago from Sandia 
Paso on a carreta. By 9 o'clock I was once more at the govern- 
or's, where I was received, not as a stranger, but with the cordial- 
ity and confidence of a member of the family. 

On the 25th Mr. Murdaugh reached Santiago, having, according 
to my instructions, followed the course of the Salado from Mira- 
flores to Estancia Taboado. He thought that the fall of the land, 
the consequent rapidity of the current, and many sand-banks, sim- 
ilar to those in the Dulce, that intersect the bed of the Salado, 
would impede navigation from Miraflores to San Miguel. From 
San Miguel to Taboado — where it will be remembered my ex- 
ploration of the river commenced — there was less current and 
greater width than below ; the stream flowed tranquilly between 
high and well-wooded banks ; the adjacent country being level, 



HOSPITALITY OF THE PEOPLE. 423 

tolerably well peopled, and cultivated to a limited extent; the 
people were civil. 

It thus appears that from Santa Fe, on the Parana, to San Mi- 
guel, within the limits of Salta (for this village is claimed by that 
province), there are no obstructions to the navigation of the Sa- 
lado that could not be removed by manual labor at a small ex- 
pense ; and where the impediments are greatest, there is an am- 
ple population in the immediate vicinity. The Santiaganians of 
the poorer classes are more civil, as well as more industrious than 
those of any other of the west provinces ; the Tucumanos resem- 
ble them ; the Saltenos were perhaps less gracious, but at the pos- 
tas of Cordova the manners of the people were particularly rough 
and forbidding. 

November 27th. Last night we attended a farewell party at Senor 
Archibal's, where was a fine gathering of senores and senoritas ; 
and this morning at an early hour we were astir, eastward bound. 
A number of inhabitants called to see us off, and we were ac- 
companied to the river by the governor and his secretary. The 
ladies of the Taboado family had not been unmindful of our com- 
fort; a large bag was so amply filled with bread and other arti- 
cles of food prepared by the governor's sister, that it was as much 
as Cornelius could carry upon his ricado. 

I can not too often bear testimony to the hospitality that char- 
acterizes all classes in La Plata. Dread of exposing the pover- 
ty or simple arrangements of their households never seemed to 
check a kind impulse. At a ranch where a hide cot was the best 
piece of furniture, and a wooden bowl of hominy the most luxu- 
rious supper, we were always kindly welcomed. Our reception 
in all the cities of the Argentine Confederation, the notices of the 
press, the enthusiasm of the men and women in anticipation of 
benefit to their country from a development of its river system, 
were most grateful. Those few days of recreation repaid me for 
many vexatious disappointments in carrying out the objects of the 
work confided to me. With pleasure do I recall my intercourse 
with these Spanish- American friends, and physically able as I was 
to endure all the discomforts of an explorer's life, most refreshing 
did I find the comforts of their city homes. 

The governor, with his usual forethought, sent a messenger 
ahead to have horses ready at the first posta ; and, by crossing the 
Dulce near the town in the boat, we avoided the detention and 
annoyance of any other mode of passing over the now swollen 



424 A NARROW ESCAPE. 

stream. We followed the same route in returning that I had be- 
fore made between the two capitals. 

It was the season of harvest, and near the close of the day we 
met a number of women, among them many a pretty dark-eyed 
girl with a bundle of wheat daintily poised upon her head. As 
I saw these women tripping along, I thought of some Kuth from 
a distant province who had " kept fast by the maidens of Boaz to 
glean until the end of the barley harvest and of wheat harvest." 
As soon as the grain is ripe, men, women, and children of the neigh- 
borhood unite in gathering it in, and their compensation is the 
gleaning of the fields. The laborers probably take care of their 
own supplies, for each woman whom I saw carried more than the 
" ephah" of Kuth. The harvest is here, as in all countries, a sea- 
son of rejoicing and plenty, and at the close of the day's work ev- 
ery Boaz feasts his laborers upon the best his means can afford. 

November 30th. Eeached Posta Eosario after a day's ride of 
ninety-six miles. Our speed was generally twelve miles an hour, 
sometimes greater. In the course of the morning I made a nar- 
row escape. I was alone, some distance ahead of my party, and 
when at a full gallop observed a sudden turn in the road. Aware 
of the danger — for the ground was wet and slippery — but know- 
ing there was more risk in suddenly checking the horse, I dashed 
on. It was too much ; the animal slipped all fours at the same 
time, coming broadside to the ground, in which position he slid, 
with the impetus of the fall, twice his length, and caught my left 
leg under him; fortunately it was protected by a heavy boot. 
While the beast was rising I attempted to get off, but found my- 
self a prisoner, with the left foot fast jammed in the stirrup-iron. 
The horse, fortunately, was well broken ; and, fatigued from a long 
gallop, he now moved off at a slow walk, carrying me by one leg, 
while with the other, and my hands as a " drag," I in vain tried 
to " bring him up," singing out first in English, then in Spanish, 
but all to no purpose. Neither would the drag hold, though I 
made deep furrows in the ground with my fingers. Mr. Murdaugh 
and the postillion coming up, dismounted, and stopped his headway. 
In the course of the same journey I met with a somewhat simi- 
lar adventure, but on the second occasion the horse merely came 
to the ground with his legs doubled under him — a movement that 
did not much disturb me, for I quietly kept my seat, gaucho 
style, until he regained his feet. The horses of the western prov- 
inces are almost as sure-footed as mules, and never trip ; but, from 



UNCOMFORTABLE QUARTERS. 425 

not being shod, they sometimes fall during the rainy season when 
the roads are wet and slippery. 

December 1st. At the first posta of Cordova, even if ignorant of 
the fact of having passed the dividing line, we should have been 
reminded of it by the uncivil manners of the people, who are so 

unlike the simple Santiaganians. We did not reach last 

night until nine o'clock, but neither supper nor accommodation 
for sleeping awaited us, for the family, who filled the ranch to its 
utmost capacity, had retired, and would not be disturbed in their 
rest. In the centre of what once might have been a dwelling, but 
which now served as a stable, kitchen, and hen-roost, we kindled 
a fire and prepared our mate, after which we spread blankets on 
hide cots placed without under a tree, and lay down with the hope 
of enjoying a sleep undisturbed by rain or vermin ; but the first 
came in such torrents that we were obliged to retreat to the hovel. 
We soon became aware that during bad weather it was the resort 
of divers animals ; for by the time we lay down a second time 
in rushed a flock of sheep, leaping over and upon us as we lay 
concealed in the darkness, producing instantaneously a scene lu- 
dicrous, but very annoying at the time to tired, sleepy travelers. 
One half the flock had made sure their passage over us before 
they could be arrested. We were now between two fires. What 
with the bleating of those without, responded to by those with- 
in, there was a serenade that defied all sleep. We succeeded in 
dislodging the inside party that had taken position in the rear, 
and at last got a few hours' sleep before dawn of day, when the 
tramping of horses announced that the postillions were ready for 
a start. 

Early on the 20th of December we reached Cordova, having 
made the distance — about three hundred and sixty miles, as es- 
tablished by the postas — in less than four days. 

Our reception here was less cordial than in any city of the Con- 
federation — a fact which seemed to stir the patriotic feelings of 
our countryman, Dr. Hawling, who threatened to inform the 
governor of our being stopped and fined two dollars for fast rid- 
ing within the city limits. I had reined in my horse to a walk 
after passing the first suburb, but the postillion, perhaps glad to 
get into town, or anxious to show off his riding to some maiden 
of the place, kept up the same pace until he was suddenly stopped 
by a policeman. I paid the two dollars, assuring. the official that 
I was anxious to show all respect to the laws of Cordova ; and 



426 KETUKN TO THE PAKANA. 

while lie was endeavoring to work np a fine dramatic rendition of 
indignant feeling against the postillion, I ordered the lad to lead 
the way to the fonda. 

December 3c?. Failed in hiring horses from the posta ; but with 
Dr. Hawling's assistance procured them from a private source, 
and started for Kosario by the main postal route, on which now 
runs regularly once a fortnight a diligencia (stage-coach). To look 
at one of those ponderous unwieldy structures, we could well im- 
agine it, unoccupied, a good load for four horses, but it is often 
crowded and invariably moves at the rate of forty and forty-five 
leagues per day, changing horses every four leagues. 

The characteristics of pampa scenery are very unvarying; 
therefore I give but a few quotations from my journal of the 
return to the Parana, though our route was very distant from 
the one followed in reaching the western provinces. 

" Eight leagues from Cordova crossed the Segundo by fording, 
where it was two feet deep. This stream, which courses due east 
and west, is one of the rivers lost in the pampas. Our road lay 
very much along the route surveyed by our countryman, Mr. 
Campbell, for the railway between Cordova and Eosario, and of 
which he says : ' Probably, up to this time, there has not been 
constructed a rail-road of equal length, about two hundred and 
fifty miles, over a surface so level.' We had scarcely fixed our- 
selves for the night at Disgraciada, after a travel of nineteen 
leagues since 9 A.M., when a crowded galera, from Eosario for 
Santiago and Tucuman, arrived. Soon every square inch of the 
quarto was filled with these passengers and their baggage, which 
embraced an amount and variety of articles inconceivable : mat- 
tresses, bedding, pillows, boots, hats, boxes, and baskets of eatables 
and drinkables were strewed about in every direction, without 
and within the house. The travelers on this occasion were all 
men, and, hearing that we came directly from their respective 
cities, were eager for a talk about home. These galeras, when 
under way for a journey across the pampas, with their four and 
six horses, each mounted by a gaucho-rigged postillion, and dash- 
ing at half speed over a plain bounded only by the horizon, pre- 
sent a spectacle as interesting as novel. 

" December teh. Detained until nearly the middle of the day by 
a pouring rain. At last, after a miserable breakfast on a poor 
coidero, we were off on fine horses and with a prospect of better 
weather. Country open; pampa grass abundant. At Tio Puijo 



FACE OF THE COUNTEY. 427 

met the diligencia, two days from Rosario, it having made yester- 
day, the 3d, forty -six leagues. Preparation for our comfort was 
suspended by the arrival of this public conveyance, to which all 
things must give way at the stopping-places. It draws up, not at 
the door of the posta, but at the corral, where in a minute four or 
six panting animals are detached, and others fresh from the corral 
are put in their places. The postillion, without even touching 
stirrup, springs into the saddle, rolls his tongue, casts impudent but 
gleeful glances at the people standing near, and dashes off at half 
speed. After the coach was off we were furnished with excellent 
horses, which carried us at the usual rate — a full gallop — to Villa 
ISTueva, five leagues. Just before reaching this place we crossed 
the Tercero, which was here three hundred yards wide ; water 
low, two or three feet deep; current, at this season, one and a 
half miles the hour. Spent the night at this posta, the best we 
had seen in the country. Master and family, kind and accom- 
modating, furnished us with an excellent supper and abundance 
of delicious milk. 

" December 5th. At sunrise on the road to Herradura, which is 
on the south side of the Tercero — four leagues. Some little cul- 
tivation of wheat ; but here, as in Tucuman, it is subject to the 
pulvo. Met a tropa of sixty carretas from Rosario for Cordova. 
At the little village of Ballesteras, twelve miles from Herradura, 
the post-road for Mendoza branches off; and nine leagues beyond 
we passed through the little pueblo Fraile Muerto, situated near 
the river. The inhabitants of this village, as well as many Cor- 
dovases, believe the Tercero navigable from Rosario to this point, 
but no effort has been made to establish the fact.* It could un- 
doubtedly be descended by flat boats. At the posta we met a 
tropa of mules from the Province of San Juan, bound to Rosario, 
laden with flour, dried and preserved fruits, peaches, figs, raisins. 
It made ten leagues per day, each little animal having a burden 
of from fourteen to seventeen arobas. To Saladillo — eight leagues 
— a desolate dilapidated village of mud houses, the banks of the 
Tercero were sparsely wooded with algorroba, with long intervals 
of a scrubby growth which marked its windings. This place is, 
surrounded by a mud wall and ditch, intended in years past as a 
protection against Indians. The savages, however, no longer 
make incursions into this district, for neither village nor surround- 

* I have already stated the grounds on which Mr. Campbell based an opinion 
that it is impracticable. 



428 INHOSPITALITY. 

ing country now offer any plunder. It is situated one mile from 
the Kiver Quarto, here called the Arroyo Saladillo, and at this 
time so much swollen that the postillions were obliged to carry 
the saddle-bags with the instruments on their heads, while they 
swam their horses oyer. Mounted on an animal tall enough to 
wade, I knelt on the saddle by way of keeping dry, and plunged 
in, expecting to be pitched head foremost at every step. How- 
ever, much to our astonishment, we reached the opposite side 
without accident or other inconvenience than wet knees; but 
I was excessively provoked that the master of the neighboring 
posta had not notified us of the state of the river, which would 
have saved detention and confusion. It was quite dark by the 
time we were under way for Lobaton, distant five leagues. Fol- 
lowing the lead of the postillion we made it at a gallop, and ar- 
rived safely, but, as may be well imagined, hungry and tired : 
for, from an early hour in the morning, with no refreshment but 
a cup of coffee and a little bread, we had ridden one hundred and 
five miles. On dismounting, guided by a dim light and the sound 
of a guitar, we made our way to a part of the yard where, around 
a fire, over which was placed an earthen vessel filled with corn, 
was seated a party of men and women, dexterously catching the 
toasted grains as they popped out, while a gaucho musician kept 
up an active accompaniment upon his cracked half-stringed in- 
strument. Our entrance did not at all disturb the party, for all 
were intently watching the corn. I asked for something to eat, 
and received an ungracious answer, delivered with a still more 
ungracious manner. ' There was nothing to eat, and if there was, 
there was no wood to make a fire.' Unable to make an impres- 
sion, and apprehending rain during the night, we spread our blank- 
ets in the hovel ; and to the gnawings of hunger were added the 
torments of musquitoes and fleas. 

"December 6th. At dawn astir, in bad humor and bad plight for 
horseback travel, but in a heavy rain rode on, five leagues, to Ca- 
beza del Tigre, where we found in the domicil of the post-master 
a kindly disposition to meet the wants of travelers. We had an 
excellent breakfast, with coffee and milk. As it was raining hard, 
with a prospect of continuance, I determined to remain in our 
snug quarters until the following day. Met at this place a tropa 
of mules laden with merchandise from Eosario bound to San 
Juan. 

" December 7 th. Left Cabeza del Tigre at an early hour, in a 



RETURN TO ROSARIO. 429 

slight mist, and four leagues beyond, at the little mud village of 
Cruz Alta we reached the last posta in Cordova going east, or the 
first west from Eosario, the line of division between the two prov- 
inces, Cordova and Santa Fe, passing between this and Esquina 
Grande a mud village four leagues east. Up to this point the 
road follows very much the course of the Tercero, all the postas 
being upon or near its south bank. From Cruz Alta the river, 
having a previous direction southeast, takes a course of north- 
east, under the name of Cacaranal, to its junction with the Para- 
na. Its banks, which we have followed during the last two days, 
are as clear of wood as the adjacent pampa, where scarce a tree is 
to be seen, except a few planted for shade. After the superb 
forests of the western provinces these looked but the shadows of 
trees. At our next stopping-place, Arequita — five leagues — found 
civil people, who gave us a good asado ; but again, four leagues 
farther on, at Desmochedo, met with but a rude reception — noth- 
ing to eat, not even a little hot water for mate procurable. The 
country between the last places was undulating, uncultivated, and 
bare of trees, but clothed with luxuriant grass. To Candelaria — 
six leagues — face of the country unchanged. At this place, where 
the people were civil, we procured hot water for mate. At Cor- 
rea — five leagues — found a good two-story brick house, and its 
owner largely engaged in raising sheep for the wool. 

It was sunset when we started from El Estado for Eosario, and 
it soon became excessively dark, but at a full gallop we followed 
with confidence the lead of the postillion, until suddenly that in- 
dividual and his steed lay broadside on the pampa, at some dis- 
tance from each other — a manoeuvre I did not exactly care to fol- 
low. ISTo damage ensued ; the postillion was soon mounted again, 
off we dashed at the same rate, and reached Eosario at 9 P.M. all 
safe, after a day's ride, from Cabeza del Tigre, of one hundred and 
five miles. The fonda was crowded, and after supper we gladly 
accepted the hospitality of Mr. Dale, the British consul. 

The growth of Eosario and the rapid increase of its population 
and trade in three years are unprecedented in the history of 
Spanish- American cities. I have in a previous chapter alluded 
to its many advantages as a port of entry ; I now refer to it as an 
important point for the residence of a consul ; for we should not 
wait for trade before appointing such an officer, but should place 
one there to secure commercial advantages for our people. A 
British consul was placed there at the earliest moment. 



430 EECALL TO THE UNITED STATES. 

In a few days a conveyance by steamer offered to Buenos 
Ayres, where I arrived on the 12th of December. As the Water 
Witch was still undergoing repairs to her engines, which would 
occasion a detention of some weeks, I proceeded in the steamer off 
San Isidro, and, with the two cutters and a large sail-boat hired 
for the purpose, sounded out the channel- way, from the inner an- 
chorage to the Arroyo Capitan, also the entrance to the Palma 
Pass. I found a depth gradually diminishing from twenty-four 
feet within the Palmas to eight off its entrance, reduced to low 
water, showing that vessels of six feet draught, bound up the Pa- 
rana, may enter the pass at ordinary low water, without appre- 
hension of taking the bottom. The only difficulty in the naviga- 
tion would arise from the want of discernible objects on shore, 
the land being so low near the mouth of the river as to be indis- 
tinctly seen at the distance of five miles from the deck of an or- 
dinary ship. 

This completed the work assigned me by my instructions, so 
far as the means at my disposal, time, and the occurrences I have 
related would allow. I leave the public to judge of the embarrass- 
ments under which I sometimes acted. There were many others, 
as well as manifold labors entirely foreign to my legitimate duties, 
to which I have not deemed it necessary to allude. 

On the 24th of January, 1856, with caulked decks, boilers 
patched, and engines mended, the steamer descended the river to 
Montevideo, where I had reason to suppose a letter of recall await- 
ed me. This letter read thus : 

"Navy Department, December 20th, 1855. 
" Sir, — The Department is gratified at the energy displayed by you in 
your endeavors to accomplish the explorations and surveys for which you 
were sent out, in the midst of many difficulties. 

" I am of opinion that the public interests require the return of the ex- 
pedition. You will, therefore, so soon after the receipt of this as practi- 
cable, return with the Water Witch to the United States and to the port 
of Washington. 

" Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
"(Signed), J. C. DOBBIN. 

" Commander Thos. J. Page, commanding U. S. Steamer ) 
Water Witch, Buenos Ayres, Eio de La Plata." > 

When we remember merely the social and political changes of 
one year, we may imagine what anxieties and fears, what hope 
and happiness move the heart of the sailor, who after more than 



EXTENT OF EXPLORATION. 431 

a three years' cruise in foreign waters, at last hears the boatswain's 
call, " All hands up anchor for home !" 

The Water Witch was detained some days at Montevideo by the 
necessity of additional repairs to her wheels, and it was not until 
the 3d February, 1856, that we stood out of the harbor. Pass- 
ing close under the stern of the sloop of war Germantown, we re- 
ceived from her crew three hearty cheers — the sailor's " God-speed 
homeward." Captain Lynch was on shore, but I recognized the 
clear, shrill voice of the first lieutenant, who wished us " a pleasant 
passage and a happy meeting with friends." It was my old friend 
and shipmate Eidgely. 

Homeward bound ! Once more the little craft was puffing free 
over old ocean : she had done good service in a foreign clime, and 
was now to bear to their native shore the crew of stout ready 
hearts that had stood by her from the beginning to the end. 

After an absence of three years and four months she came to 
anchor, on the 8th of May, 1856, at the Washington Navy Yard, 
the place of her original construction. 



CHAPTER XXV. 



Extent of Exploration. — Depth of Water in the Paraguay. — Sources of that River. 
— Junction with the Parana. — The Parana River. — Tributaries of the Paraguay. 
— The Confuso and Otuquis. — Expeditions up and down the Pilcomayo. — North- 
ern and Southern Branch, — Little Success at its Navigation. — The Vermejo. — 
Its Navigability confirmed. — The Salado. — "River Bottom." — Falls of Apipe'. 
— The Gran Salto. — The River above. — Islands and Rapids. — The Uruguay. — 
The Salto Grande. — Beauty of adjacent Country. — La Plata. — Its Mouth at the 
Capes. — Structure of the Parana Banks. — Tosca. — Rock Formation on the Par- 
aguay. — Entrance to a Mountain Region. — The Great Gulf. — Birth of Rivers. 
— Callera de Arriola. — Retirement of the Sea. — Fossil Remains and Estuary 
Mud. — Diluvial and Alluvial Periods. — Encroachments of Land and Water. — 
Harbor of Buenos Ayres. — Fertility of Soil. — Fruits and Vegetation. — Medic- 
inal Plants and Woods. — Climate. — Navigation of the Rivers. — Letter from the 
Governor of Santiago. — Exclusive Privileges granted to Companies. — Suitable 
Vessels. — Paraguay. — Products and Advantages for Trade. — Interests of Boli- 
via. — Immigration. — Brossard. — Thiers and Guizot upon the Country of La Pla- 
ta. — What foreign Governments have done. — What our Policy should be. 

With my map and charts I present to the public, if not an in- 
teresting, at least an unexaggerated account of my exploration of 
countries bordering the fluvial avenues that intersect the basin of 
La Plata. 

We ascended from Buenos Ayres — the initial point of our work 



432 THE PAEAGUAY. 

—to Corumba, in latitude 18° 59' 43" south, longitude 57° 44' 36" 
west, to which place the exploration of the Paraguay was at this 
time limited by the Brazilian Government* That settlement is 
•in a right line about one thousand miles from Buenos Ay res, and 
by the course of the rivers two thousand from the ocean. The 
first half of this distance was ascended at the season of low water 
in the Parana without encountering shoals, rocks, or any obstacle 
to a continuous navigation, in an ocean steamer of nine feet 
draught. 

In the Paraguay the depth of water was at that time not less 
than twelve feet, and, according to our register kept at Asuncion, 
at no season less than five. These rivers, augmented in volume 
of water above their junction by a wonderful ramification of nav- 
igable streams, form the central water-courses of La Plata. 

From three small lakes in the northwestern mountains of Bra- 
zil, between the parallels of 13° and 14°, the Payaguas Eiver — a 
name euphonized to Paraguay by the Spanish conquerors — is 
supposed to have its source. These mountains, which almost 
meet the last spurs of the Peruvian ranges, are likewise the wa- 
ter-sheds of several streams that swell the great tributaries of the 
Amazon ; and, according to a generally received opinion, a short 
portage alone intervenes between the navigable head waters of 
these rivers. Plowing generally south, the Paraguay, in latitude 
27° 17' 32," longitude 58° 39 7 32," forms its junction with the 
Parana, which also rises in the northwestern mountains of Brazil, 
between the parallels of 17° 30' and 18° 30 7 . Coursing first west, 
then south, its waters continually increased by the outpourings 
of many large streams, the Parana is a mighty river, one and a 
quarter miles wide when it enters Missiones (a country so called 
from having been the seat of the first Jesuit missions), from whence 
it rolls again westward to the point at which it commingles its 
waters with the Paraguay. The two rivers made one, under the 
name of Parana, flow on to La Plata, or Parana Guazu (Great Pa- 
rana), as it is still called by the Indians. 

In ascending the Paraguay, while tributaries from the east are 
constantly recurring, there are comparatively few from the west. 
From the Confuso, in latitude 25° 8 7 , to the latitude of 19°, a dis- 
tance by the river of six hundred and fifty miles, there is but one 
affluent from the west, the Otuquis, or Bahia Negra. Between the 

* Subsequently permission was granted to extend the exploration into all the 
Brazilian tributaries of the Paraguay. 



THE PILCOMAYO. 433 

Confuso and its junction with the Parana the Paraguay receives 
the waters of two considerable rivers — the Pilcomayo and Ver- 
mejo — the former in latitude 25° 16', the latter in 26° 52 'south. 

The Otuquis, which is considered the northern limit of the Cha- 
co, rises in the Sierras de Santiago, in the Province of Chiquitos, 
and coursing through Bahia Negra, empties into the Paraguay in 
latitude 20° 10' south, longitude 58° 17' west. Of the practica- 
bility of its navigation I have not a doubt ; and when established, 
it will open a channel of communication with Chiquitos, a region 
of Bolivia, far removed from that watered by the Pilcomayo, but 
equally rich in products. 

Of the Pilcomayo I can give no information derived from my 
own knowledge. Circumstances that have been related closed 
this river to the expedition ; all that we know of it, therefore, is 
derived from several abortive attempts at its exploration: the 
first, by Father Patino, in 1721 ; the second, by Casales, in 1735, 
who gives but a vague account of his attempt to ascend through 
what he terms the southern channel, the northern one being pro- 
nounced by him impracticable ; the third, by Castanares, in 1741 ; 
and a fourth by Colonel Magarinos and a Mr. Thompson, said to 
have been an American. 

This latter was an attempt to descend the river in 1844 under 
the auspices of the Bolivian Government, General Bolivian being 
President ; but it was likewise unsuccessful. Azara, who, so far 
as he goes, gives the most reliable account, ascended this river 
through the northern branch about forty miles, according to his 
estimate of the distance, when he returned under the apprehension 
that he could not reach Potosi, the point aimed at, although the 
least water given by him in the month of August was six feet. 
His difficulties seem to have arisen from the strength of the cur- 
rent ; but, like other explorers, he was illy provided with suitable 
means. 

The Pilcomayo has its source in a spur of the Cordillera de los 
Andes, northwest of Potosi in Bolivia, and after receiving the 
Cachimayo, which rises within a short distance of Chuquisaca, is 
joined by the Pilaya from the southwest. This latter, fed by 
numerous tributaries, greatly augments the volume of the Pilco- 
mayo, which, at a short distance from this junction, enters the 
Gran Chaco, and flowing under the general direction of southeast, 
empties into the Paraguay at Asuncion. The only attempts at 
navigation upon this stream which seemed to promise success, are 

28 



434 THE VERMEJO AND SALADO. 

stated to have been made through the branch at or near Asun- 
cion. Our chart does not lay down the supposed southern mouth, 
because we discovered no evidence of its existence near the lo- 
cality assigned it. Inasmuch, however, as it may discharge it- 
self into some one of the numerous riachos, and thus be concealed 
from view to one ascending the Paraguay, I would not pronounce 
upon its non-existence. 

The efforts that have been made to determine the navigability 
of the Pilcomayo seemed to have failed — so far as we are able to 
judge from the vague accounts given of them — more in conse- 
quence of the want of proper boats and provision for such an un- 
dertaking than from the opposition of the Indians or insurmounta- 
ble obstacles in the river. The chief embarrassment seems to be in 
the western portion of the Chaco, where the channel is reported as 
losing itself in a vast laguna, offering no direct or navigable course. 

The Vermejo flows from the northwestern provinces of the 
Argentine Confederation, and notwithstanding the comparatively 
short distance through which I ascended it in a steamer of twenty- 
six inches draught, and at the season of low water, the point reach- 
ed, according to my determination, is above the position given 
the most difficult passes by Comejo and Loria. The last descent 
of it, made in the corresponding month of the succeeding year by 
Mr. Hickman, an enterprising citizen of the United States, then 
a resident of Buenos Ayres, in a boat of three to four feet draught, 
confirms my opinion of its navigability. 

The Salado rises in the western Cordilleras of the Province of 
Salta, and after a very tortuous course, under the general direc- 
tion of southeast, empties into the Parana at Sante Fe, latitude 
31° 88' 34" south, longitude 60° 39' 48" west. 

We ascertained and established the navigability of this river 
for a distance of eight hundred miles, and exhibited upon it the 
great lever of modern civilization, steam. It flows through a 
country unequaled for pastoral and agricultural purposes, and 
brings into communication with the Atlantic some of the richest 
and most populous provinces — Santiago del Estero, Tucuman, 
Salta, Jujuy, etc. — whose products have heretofore been convey- 
ed to the port of Eosario by ox- wagons, occupying a period of ten 
months to go and return ; but which can now, by boats, reach 
the same port in fifteen days, and a return cargo of merchandise 
be made in twenty -five. 

Even the Indians, who have heretofore made hostile descents 



THE PARANA. 435 

upon the few settlements along its banks, may be made, by kind 
and judicious treatment, powerful agents in developing the re- 
sources of the country.* 

Immediately adjacent to the river extends, from one to about 
five miles in width, a "river bottom" well wooded and densely 
covered with grass, from which the more elevated land, skirted 
with timber of superior quality, rises gradually to a level with 
the surrounding pampa. The wood on this bottom is of excel- 
lent quality as fuel for steamers, 'and may be had in great abund- 
ance. In its green state we experienced no difficulty in keeping 
up the requisite quantity of steam. 

In my visit to the western districts of Paraguay we touched 
the Parana where it flowed through " Missiones," but my exami- 
nation of this noble river extended only from the mouth to its 
junction with the Paraguay. From all the information arrived at, 
though unsatisfactory, I was induced to believe that its navigation 
would be found practicable to a considerable distance above Cor- 
rientes. The falls of Apipe, situated in latitude 27° 27', longi- 
tude 56° west, probably offer no serious obstruction at the pe- 
riod of high water, f Hence for several hundred miles up to the 
Curitiba, a large navigable river, its course is represented as per- 
fectly free. Above this point begins a remarkable series of falls 
and cataracts, which extend a distance of one hundred miles to 
the Salto Grande. Around this fall the Jesuits, with their twelve 
thousand converts seeking a land of peace from the inhuman per- 
secutions of their Portuguese foes, effected a toilsome, struggling 
descent, in which many of their numbers perished. Azara, one of 
the few fortunate and adventurous travelers who have ever reach- 
ed this Salto, has pictured its sublimity in enthusiastic terms. The 
river suddenly narrows from a width of over a mile to less than 
forty yards, pouring its solid mass of waters over a height of six- 
ty feet into a rocky basin4 

From what we glean in Jesuit writings the river above this 
again becomes navigable, at least to the Parana Pane. Yery lit- 
tle is known of the upper waters of the Parana ; for beyond a cer- 
tain point even the track of the intrepid missionary is lost, and 
this great water-course, with a probable navigation of at least two 

* See extract from letter of Governor Taboado, p. 444. 

t In my narrative I have given in detail an account of the hostile interference 
the expedition met with while proceeding to examine this point. 
t Azara, vol. i., p. 71, 72. 



436 THE URUGUAY. 

thousand five hundred miles, flows for a great distance in undis- 
turbed possession of the Indian. 

From Missiones begins that series of islands which thence char- 
acterize this river to its mouth. Some of these are small,. others 
embrace many square leagues ; some are low, of recent formation, 
and frequently submerged ; others are high, well wooded, and add 
much to the beauty of the scenery. 

" The laws which govern the rise and fall of the Parana are in- 
variable. Its inundations, like those of the Nile, are periodical, 
and are blessings rather than causes of disquietude ; for, always 
expected and progressively slow, they never surprise the vigilance 
of the inhabitants, and decrease, leaving vegetation not only un- 
harmed, but improved by their deposit."* 

The Uruguay, which has its source in the Sierra Catalina, lati- 
tude 27° 30', is also increased by numerous tributaries, many of 
which, when they shall have been explored, may prove important 
streams. It flows first west to the confines of the " Missiones," 
then south, and disembogues into La Plata immediately after its 
junction with the Parana in latitude 34° south. It bounds Entre 
Rios and Corrientes on the east, separates those two provinces 
from the Banda Oriental and Brazil, and is navigable at all times 
for a distance of two hundred and fifty miles up to the Salto 
Grande. Here is a ledge of rocks stretching across the river, pre- 
senting more the character of rapids than of a fall, as its name 
would indicate. For a very short time in the year, during the 
month of October, the Uruguay rises to the height of from fifteen 
to twenty feet, forming over the fall a rapid current, but of suffi- 
cient depth to allow of its ascent under an extraordinary steam 
pressure. Beyond the "Salto" it again becomes navigable for 
small vessels of five feet draught to the distance of from one to 
two hundred miles. When the population of the country above 
shall have increased and have felt the want of water transporta- 
tion, they will see the propriety and practicability of overcoming 
this obstruction by means of locks. 

The scenery on this river, especially on the left bank — the Ban- 
da Oriental — is very fine. At the distance of one hundred miles 
above its mouth the country on the right bank — Entre Rios — 
changes from the flat wooded to the undulating grassy, with 
skirts of quebracho and palm groves here and there fringing its 
margin. The left bank — the Banda Oriental — is beautiful through - 

* Ygnaoio Nunez. 



RIVER BANKS. 437 

out. . The land is high and rolling, with wooded ridges and grassy 
hill-sides, gently sloping to meadows of surpassing verdure. 

Now the reservoir of many streams, equaling in its mass of wa- 
ters all the rivers of Europe, La Plata, at the narrowest point 
twenty-five miles wide, flows on majestically until it commingles 
its waters with those of the ocean between the Capes of Santa Ma- 
ria and San Antonio, the limits generally assigned to it by geog- 
raphers ; for though it attains a, width of one hundred and eight}' 
miles at its mouth, and has very much the appearance of an estu- 
ary, it also retains to the capes many of the characteristics of a 
river. 

I have named but a few of the principal navigable tributaries 
of the central water-courses. From the eastern slopes of the An- 
des flow many others, which, after tortuous meanderings for hund- 
reds of miles, are lost by filtration or evaporation during the heats 
of summer. Others form shallow lakes and become the sources 
of streams of less magnitude. 

From the west the Parana and Paraguay also receive the out- 
pourings of a great number of minor rivers, many of which are 
navigable to the very heart of some of the finest regions of the 
basin. There are also innumerable riachos which wind through 
estancias and forests, forming a perfect net-work of natural canal- 
ization, and again find an outlet in the parent streams. 

The structure of the lands forming the east and west banks of 
the Parana up to the confluence of the Paraguay, and again upon 
those of this latter river up to the Appa exhibits a remarkable con- 
trast. Beginning with the shores of the Banda Oriental and pro- 
ceeding north we find clay slate, gneiss, and granite, as at Martin 
Grarcia, whose quarries furnish all the materials for building and 
paving in Buenos Ayres. Here is a break in this chain by the 
intervention of the flat lands of the Parana Delta. At Diamante 
a calcareous formation is presented in a conglomerate of fossil 
sea-shells, which continues for a long distance northward on a 
range elevated from sixty to one hundred feet, and exhibiting at 
some points crystallized carbonate of lime, of which we procured 
very perfect specimens. A coarse reddish sandstone and indu- 
rated argillaceous earth of the same color characterize the high 
banks of the Province of Corrientes. Leaving the Parana Eiver 
where it turns abruptly eastward, and following the Paraguay, we 
observe at some distance in the interior ridges and rolling lands ; 
but bordering the banks of the river a level country offers no 



438 



TOSCA. 



appearance of rock formation, until we reach the isolated Mount 
Lambare, where basaltic rock shows itself. From Asuncion 
throughout Paraguay up to the Kio Appa we find, at various 
points, banks presenting argillaceous strata and precipitous sec- 
tions of silex and limestone. 

On the other hand, assuming Buenos Ayres as our starting- 
point, and moving northward, on the west bank of the Parana and 
Paraguay, we find a continuous pampa throughout the extent of 
thirteen degrees of latitude, interrupted only at one point, and that 
an isolated hill of mica schist one hundred feet in height, with a 
base of not more, than three hundred in diameter. This occurs at 
the distance of about twelve miles above Asuncion, and contains 
the quarry which is alluded to as furnishing a good quality of 
stone for building. 

The country south of the Salado is more elevated, and appar- 
ently of older date than that north of this river, which we assume 
as the southern boundary of the Chaco. But the nearest approach 




BIEERA SIETE rtTNTA, IN THE OHAOO. 



to rock formation throughout the whole extent of this region is 
" tosca," which is found in great quantities on the shores of La 
Plata, near the city of Buenos Ayres ; at various points in both the 
Salado and Yermejo, it forms the beds of those rivers. Beyond, 
or north of the Eio Appa, the country both east and west of the 



RETIREMENT OF THE SEA. 439 

Paraguay assumes very much the same character, low and of re- 
cent date, broken only by isolated hills, some of them rising al- 
most to the proportions of mountains from the water's edge. At 
Pan de Azucar the formation is syenite ; at Olimpo, basaltic rock ; 
at Coimbra, limestone, white marble, and sandstone, with appar- 
ent impressions of moss resembling arborescent marble ; at Co- 
rumba, limestone. 

Here we had evidently, however, entered upon a formation 
differing from that of the Chaco. Detached spurs and isolated 
ranges of mountains west of the river, divided and intersected by 
low flat lands, quite submerged at the season of high water, lead 
the imagination to picture them, at some anterior date, as islands 
in what we may conceive this vast region of La Plata once to 
have been — an inland sea. 

From the north of Patagonia along the eastern slopes of the An- 
dean range, skirting the pampa northward to within the Province 
of Chiquitos, turning east, along the sierras which divide the val- 
ley of the Amazon from that of La Plata, to the Paraguay, descend- 
ing the latter to its tributary, the Appa, and ascending this to its 
source, following the Cordillera de Maracayn to the Salto Grande 
of the Parana ; descending this river to Missiones, thence across to 
the Uruguay throughout its course, and to the capes by which 
the great estuary pours its waters into the Atlantic, we trace out 
what is supposed to have been the limits of a great gulf. 

Then came a gradual subsidence, and water-courses found their 
beds in valleys and in the gentle lowlands of the Chaco. We 
may regard this as a distinct period in the retirement of these 
waters, for as yet we suppose the sea to be far above its present 
shore-line. The rivers of La Plata were then born, and Sir 
Woodbine Parrish finds their outlet in the Callera de Arriola, where 
the fossil remains he procured for the British Museum were dis- 
covered. From this point, in the lapse of time, as the earth en- 
croached upon the sea, these riverine waters found a more ex- 
tended course, and may yet, with the flight of years or ages, over- 
flow the limits assigned them by modern geography. Strata of 
marine shells found at various depths attest the revolutions that 
have been going on for ages. And upon a vast section of the 
bed of this ancient sea has been formed the alluvial structure of 
the pampas. 

Near the shores of La Plata marine remains are frequently vis- 
ible, but as we ascend from- its mouth the alluvium increases in 



440 THE PAMPA COUNTRY. 

depth. Near Santa Fe, three hundred miles from the ocean, Mr. 
Darwin discovered a stratum of marine shells, over which was an 
alluvial bed, forty or fifty feet deep, containing remains of ex- 
tinct mammalia. Then again, as he remarks, " On the cliff-bound 
shores of Entre Eios the line can be distinguished where the estu- 
ary 'mud. first encroached upon the deposits of the ocean." 

But in no place is this alluvial deposit more distinctly marked 
than upon the Vermejo, with its banks rising to the height of 
thirty and forty feet in the level country of the Chaco. Three 
beds or strata were always distinguishable; the upper and the 
lower varying in color and character, while the centre was at all 
points the same ; a vein of estuary mud, ordinarily at the depth 
of fifteen or twenty feet below the surface, at times forming a 
thick deposit, at others thinning out to a mere line. At one point 
of the river I obtained, ten feet from the surface, from a stratum 
of indurated clay, a specimen which has the appearance of roots 
and grass, and at another we found fresh- water fossil shells of 
very minute size. 

The formation of the pampa country of La Plata has scarcely 
received the consideration and analysis to which its peculiar fea- 
tures may certainly lay claim. Travelers have noted and sur- 
mised, and writers have surmised from these, but a satisfaction 
treatise would seem still to be wanting, to establish with some re- 
liability how and when occurred the physical changes in this great 
alluvion, some of which are of very recent date. The origin of 
its saline deposits is a subject of interesting inquiry. Bland, one 
of the United States Commissioners in 1818 to Buenos Ayres, 
says the pampa formation "may have been gently lifted just 
above the level of the ocean, and left with a surface so unbroken 
and so flat as not yet to have been sufficiently purified of its salt 
and acrid matter either by filtration or washing." It is admitted, 
however, that a more reasonable hypothesis for the saline impreg- 
nation of various portions of the Chaco may be found in the wash- 
ing, during the season of rains, from the extensive salt-fields in the 
valleys and on the eastern slopes of the Cordilleras. Hence flow 
the head waters of the rivers, which, by nitration or evaporation, 
impregnate the adjacent soil and form saline lagoons, the sources 
of other streams of less magnitude. We know that salts on the 
outer crusts of the earth have been continuously found in lowlands 
and highlands, in springs and pools, at considerable elevations. 
Shells and marine remains similar to those found throughout this 



SEA AND LAND CHANGES. 441 

vast basin have been discovered from the tops of the Andes to 
the mountains of China. All creation tells of a diluvial, and 
again points out to us an alluvial period. 

That the Chaco country is an alluvial formation rests beyond a 
doubt. Mr. Darwin enumerates nine distinct quadrupeds, the re- 
mains of which he discovered at Bahia Blanca in the province of 
Buenos Ayres. The state of preservation in which they were 
found, and other minor circumstances, prove that they were "not 
tossed and swallowed up by some internal convulsion of nature, 
but were slowly and gradually entombed by the earthy matter, 
still encroaching upon the sea and rescuing from its waste of wa- 
ters a land of fertility. 

The physical revolutions the surface of the earth has been un- 
dergoing were long ago proved from the accounts of Strabo, of 
Herodotus, and a host of ancient writers. The land has contin- 
uously encroached upon the sea, and in turn the sea has encroach- 
ed upon the land. Herodotus thought that Egypt might once 
have been a long and narrow gulf. There are certainly undoubted 
proofs here, as in many places elsewhere, of the receding of the 
water. Strabo discussed the possibility of the coast of Asia Minor 
having in course of time considerably extended itself into the sea, 
and Admiral Beaufort has pointed out the inlets that have been 
filled up and the islands that have joined to the main land since 
the days of that ancient geographer. Eavenna, Notre Dame des 
Ports, and numerous other towns, which were once sea-ports, are 
now several miles inland. The ancient town of Port Valois, 
the Portus Yalesige of the Komans, was once situated at the mouth 
of the Ehine, but, from the extensive delta formed by the sedi- 
ment brought down that river, now stands a mile and a half from 
the water. On the other hand, the temple of Serapis and other 
structures in the Bay of Baise are remarkable evidences of the 
fall of the earth and the rise of the sea. 

The filling up of the Eiver La Plata and the extension of the 
delta of the Parana are changes that have not totally escaped ob- 
servation, although they have not been noted with any degree of 
accuracy. Buenos Ayres may yet, like the cities just mention- 
ed, become an inland town. 

The author of the Argentina, speaking of the depth of water 
between San Gabriel and the present site of Buenos Ayres, says, 

"De ancho nueve leguas o mas tiene 
El rio pora qui y way hondable, 



442 FEETILITY OF THE SOIL 

La nave hasta aqui segura viene 

Que como el ancho mar es navigable." 

"The river 's here nine leagues or more, 
And very deep 'twixt shore and shore, 
So far the navigation's free, 
As though 'twere an open sea." 

"We are left to conjecture what the poet's notions were of the 
depth of water ; but it is not probable that he would have applied 
the term " muy hondable" to eighteen or twenty feet of water, al- 
most in an open sea ; and we may fairly infer that since the pe- 
riod when Centenera ascended the river, about three centuries 
ago, the detritus brought down by its current has gradually filled 
up the bed to its present level. What the amount of this deposit 
can have been we are left to imagine. Little doubt, however, can 
be entertained but this filling up has been and still continues the 
silent work of time, and that as each day La Plata pours its sea 
of waters out into the ocean, layers of mud and vegetable matter 
sift to its shallow bottom. 

All the great rivers of La Plata flow from the finest mineral 
districts of the world ; but this valley has yet richer mines in its 
varied and fertile soil, and in the wealth of the vegetable king- 
dom, which is marvelous. In ascending continuously from the 
Capes of La Plata to Martin Garcia, from the fragrant isles of the 
Parana to the fruitful wilds of Brazil, in river and land explora- 
tions of over eight thousand miles, we found every indigenous va- 
riety of tropical vegetation ; passed forests of precious woods, in- 
terrupted only by extended plains carpeted with vigorous grass- 
es and capable of supporting an incalculable number of horned 
cattle. Again : I entered populous districts, and witnessed a 
demonstration of all the capabilities of the soil for agricultural 
wealth ; but the inhabitants of these districts, not stimulated to 
exertion by exterior commerce, have heretofore pursued agricul- 
ture only as a means of supplying the demand for home consump- 
tion. When small fields of cotton, tobacco, and sugar are suf- 
ficient for the wants of a few families, there is no inducement to 
form great plantations ; but having seen these articles grown to 
the perfection of maturity, with but little culture, and even spon- 
taneously, I can readily imagine that in a few years they would 
become staples. 

We brought home sections of a variety of woods, and of their 
indestructible qualities I had some opportunity of judging in my 



HEALTHFUL CLIMATE. 443 

frequent visits to the abandoned missions of the Jesuits in Para- 
guay, where the finest wood- work — columns, statuary, and roofing 
— exposed to the action of the elements for more than two centu- 
ries, were as untouched by time as granite or iron. " A ship built 
of Paraguay wood," says Azara, "will outlast four of European 
timber." The economy of nature also is most wonderful and beau- 
tiful. In the edible fruits, foliage, barks, fibres, and juices of its 
great forest trees, as well as in those of every species of minor 
vegetation, we find farinaceous food, a stimulant, or tea, more 
healthful than that afforded by the Chinese leaf, precious medi- 
cines,* raw materials for the finest tissues and the most useful 
fabrics, dye-stuffs offering varied and unfading tinges, gums, res- 
ins. This exuberance of vegetable life is united with a climate 
as delicious as it is salubrious. 

The exposure incident to works of this character is calculated 
generally to give a correct idea of the health of the country in 
which they are prosecuted. And such was the unusual absence 
of sickness among both officers and crew of the Water "Witch, not- 
withstanding the exposure to which they were subjected, that I 
am constrained to pronounce Paraguay and those provinces of the 
Argentine Confederation which constituted the field of our opera- 
tions among the healthiest regions of the earth. Its proximity to 
the tropics and physical character, judging from analogy, might, 
on a superficial knowledge of it, convey a very different idea. 

But, in giving this as an opinion, I do not judge solely from 
the effects of the climate upon our exploring party, but from facts 
indisputable. In Paraguay there is no practicing physician. It 
is not an uncommon occurrence to meet with aged persons who 
will say they have never been sick. In the Province of Santiago 
del Estero there is no professional physician. One will often hear 
the remark, " There has never occurred in Santiago a case of in- 
termittent fever." It was in this province that I tested my own 
power of endurance, and at the same time the salubrity of the at- 
mosphere, by the exposure to which I was subjected both by day 
and night. During the greater portion of the year the country 
people sleep in the open air, never " in doors" unless driven in by 
rain. 

This condition of climate prevails, although in a less degree, 
throughout the Confederation. Had the great delineator and in- 

* Among the botanical specimens collected in Paraguay alone are sixty-six va- 
rieties of medicinal plants, and yet the collection is incomplete in this branch. 



4AA RIVER NAVIGATION. 

vestigator of South. American nature visited La Plata, he would 
have made it an exception in penning the following passage: 
" Extreme fertility of soil and insalubrity of atmosphere are as in- 
separably connected in South America as in Southern Asia."* 

The progress made in those countries even during the short pe- 
riod of the operations of this expedition — the Constitutional Gov- 
ernment having been established in 1853 — was too manifest to 
escape the most uninterested observer, and it has demonstrated 
practically to the comprehension of the people the wonderful 
blessings of peace and good government over civil wars and des- 
potism. 

A company, with a large grant of land from the General Govern- 
ment, was soon formed for the navigation of the Salado, and Don 
Manuel Taboado, Governor of Santiago del Estero, writes to me, 
under date of September 1st, 1857 : " Two years have elapsed 
since the exploration of the Salado, which, under your direction, 
has given such good results. Yesterday — the anniversary of your 
arrival in Santiago — came Captain Benetti, of the steamer Salado, 
now aground at Monte Aguara, he having ascended the river in 
a boat, which he left at Navicha.f .... Captain Benetti noted, 
between Aguara and Navicha, about forty fallen trees, and it now 
remahis only to complete the work you began 

" I have before advised you of our successes on the frontier 
against the Indians. We have defeated them in several engage- 
ments, and they, having since made peace and conducted them- 
selves well, are now employed in the transmission of our corre- 
spondences by canoes from Bracho to Aguara." 

On the faith of evidence given that the Yermejo is navigable 
in its ascent by steamers, a company, composed in part of some 
enterprising Englishmen, was formed for this purpose ; and hav- 
ing obtained from the government of the Argentine Confeder- 
ation exclusive privileges, procured from England four small 
steamers. Entertaining a deep interest in all such enterprises — 
the fruits of our work — I strongly advised that the steamers re- 
quired for the navigation, especially of the small tributaries of the 
central rivers, should be procured in the United States ; for, apart 
from a national feeling, and without reflecting upon the skill of 
English ship-builders, I do not hesitate to assert that in no part 

* Views of Nature. 

t Distant from Bracho, the first military post in Santiago on the Salado, fifteen 
miles. 



INDUCEMENTS FOR IMMIGRATION. 445 

of the world has the construction of boats of small draught been 
carried to the same extent or brought to such perfection as in 
the United States ; and for the simple reason that here we have 
an inland navigation of vast extent and of great value, which has 
excited the ingenuity of ship-builders to devise such construction, 
and so to apply the means of propulsion as to admit of the least 
possible draught. 

Paraguay promises a lucrative commerce to any people that 
may become engaged in it ; producing tobacco, hides, yerba, cot- 
ton, medicinal plants, dye-stuffs, indigo, and a variety of woods 
for ship-building and ornamental purposes. So superior is the 
quality of her tobacco, to which both climate and soil seem pecul- 
iarly adapted, that it would alone become an article of extensive 
trade. She would seek eagerly in return salt and manufactured 
goods. 

In ascending the Paraguay two thousand miles from the At- 
lantic we reached the frontiers of some of the richest provinces of 
Brazil, provinces whose products had before no outlets but the 
port of Eio Janeiro — a port reached by a laborious, dangerous, 
and costly land travel, over mountain paths accessible only to the 
sure-footed mule. 

A part of the ancient empire of the Incas — the State of Bolivia 
— has vital interests in the results of this exploration. Possessing 
but one indifferent port on the Pacific, Cobija, and from this sepa- 
rated by the Cordilleras of the Andes, it is only by her rivers that 
the wealth of her mines and the fruits of her forests, teeming with 
many of the products of the Indies, can be brought into the trade 
of the Atlantic. 

From being one of the best populated as well as the richest of 
the South American States, a field is at once opened for the manu- 
factures of Europe and the United States. At simply a nominal 
expense, when we look to the vastness of the interest involved, 
might she effect this outlet into the Paraguay, through the river 
Otuquis, now obstructed by a dense growth of grass. 

With the navigability of her great interior water-courses once 
established, La Plata will have received a development of cen- 
turies, and we may safely anticipate the tide of immigration which 
will set into that valley, and, without being visionary, we foresee a 
future which, in the history of the world, will only be surpassed 
by the growth of the United States of North America. In offer- 
ing to immigrants the temptations of a country even richer in 



446 EMIGRATION FROM EUROPE. 

all natural, mineral, pastoral, and agricultural resources than the 
great basins of the Orinoco and Amazon, we have shown that 
she offers a climate genial and unrivaled for its salubrity, and a 
population sufficiently large and advanced in civility to form at 
once the basis of extensive commercial operations. 

Brossard, a French diplomatist, says, in writing on the immigra- 
tion from France into that country: "In 1838 the number of 
French registered at the French Consulate at Montevideo amount- 
ed to five thousand ; at the end of 1842 it had increased to nine 
thousand ; but it must be remembered that this register embraced 
only adults ; and the best authorities compute the whole number, 
inclusive of women and children, at not less than fifteen thousand. 
During the first months of the year 1841 there arrived at Monte- 
video more than thirty-five hundred persons from the Basque 
Provinces, and it is estimated that not less than 28,245 European 
immigrants arrived from 1838 to the close of 1841." ' This tide 
of immigration flowed in when these countries were distracted by 
civil wars and revolutions, which have given place to more settled 
governments and commercial treaties with the United States and 
some of the great powers of Europe. 

The leading governments of Europe have manifested for many 
years an active interest in the affairs of La Plata, and my opinion 
of its immense resources for commerce are more than sustained 
by some of their most eminent statesmen. Austria, at an early 
period, acknowledged the independence of the La Plata Kepub- 
lics. Proverbially sagacious and far-seeing as her statesmen are 
known to be, they have doubtless discovered in that region a 
healthy outlet for the disaffected population of the Lombardo-Ve- 
netian States. 

M. G-uizot comprehended the importance of opening the coun- 
tries of this great basin to European enterprise. In a dispatch to 
M. de St. Aulaire, then the French Ambassador at London, he 
says, in writing of the intervention of France and England in the 
affairs of La Plata: "We must ask, as an accessory consequence 
of our intervention, the application of the principles established 
by the Congress at Yienna for the free navigation of rivers, in re- 
lation to those which, flowing from the frontiers of Brazil and 
Paraguay, throw themselves into the Atlantic." 

M. Thiers, in a speech before the legislative assembly of France, 
delivered January 6th, 1850, says of the commerce and brilliant 
future of La Plata: "Your trade with the two Americas is enor- 



M. GUIZOT ON SOUTH AMERICA. 447 

mous ; larger than with any other region of the globe. It repre- 
sents nearly rive hundred millions, of which North America ab- 
sorbs the greater part. Of these five hundred millions North 
America receives three hundred and fifty; South America one 
hundred and fifty, which is not quite a third ; but you deceive 
yourselves strangely if you appreciate this hundred and fifty mil- 
lions of commerce only by the cypher by which it is represented. 
The trade of North America, which apparently presents such 
great advantages, and which you regard with such solicitude, has 
two great drawbacks : First, it is exposed to the tariff, which the 
manufacturing classes {parti industriel) demand. Secondly, they 
have the advantage of you in navigation 

"Now let us look at South America. You there trade with 
nations whose growth surpasses even that of North Am erica. 
The census of North America represents the population as doub- 
ling itself nearly in twenty years. I can prove to you that there 
are states in South America where the population has tripled in 
twelve years. 

" The trade of Brazil has advanced in ten years from a little 
less than thirty to sixty millions ; the trade of La Plata has ad- 
vanced, in twelve years, from between four and five millions to 
forty rnillions. 

" You may judge from this of the progress of trade in those 
countries. 

" I am profoundly convinced that without this war, which your 
energy alone can terminate, the trade of South America — and I 
speak without exaggeration — will reach to two hundred millions. 

"Again: you encounter there no manufacturing party {parti 
industriel). She can not menace you for a long period with the 
industrial rivalry which now threatens you in the United States ; 
the people of South America are at best an agricultural people. 
And, lastly, you have the certainty that your flag will there de- 
velop itself immensely ; and there is only that region for its de- 
velopment {et il n!y a plus que cette region pour le developper)" 

In a memorial addressed to the King of Prussia, advocating 
the establishment of a line of steamers to South America, the 
views of Thiers for France are applied to Grermany. The writers 
say: "Brazil will never become a manufacturing country, and 
the products of Grermany will there, in all time, or forever, find an 
assured outlet or market. After Brazil the states of the Eio de 
la Plata merit the greatest attention among the countries of South 



448 OUR TRUE POLICY. 

America, and an extended commerce with Brazil will secure to 
Germany relations with these states. The vast territories which 
form the basin of the Parana, the Paraguay, and the Uruguay, 
and their tributaries, contain the elements of a prosperity and 
wealth the most varied. What a future do these countries not 
offer!" 

While benefiting these neighboring and weaker republics by 
developing their river system, we have opened a vast field for 
trade in all the products of temperate and tropical zones ; and 
these, with the mineral treasures of the Andes, can find a rapid 
and safe river-transit to the Atlantic. Protected by the flags of 
the great maritime powers, this excess of wealth will be poured 
into the lap of nations. Will not our people seek a fair commer- 
cial intercourse with these states of our own hemisphere ? We 
can apply to ourselves with equal force the arguments of Thiers 
and the German memorialists. We are not there menaced by the 
rivalry of a manufacturing people, and our flag may find a field 
§f extensive development. If the government of the United 
States be true to its interest ; if it desire to cherish and maintain 
a feeling of national friendship with those countries ; if it desire 
to secure any benefits likely to arise from its commerce — destined 
to be of inestimable value — it must step in while the " waters are 
troubled," it must move ere alliances are made elsewhere. 

The most flattering compliment has been paid this government 
by the people of the Argentine Confederation, through their rep- 
resentatives, that could possibly be bestowed by one nation upon 
another. They have adopted our Constitution as the model of 
theirs, in every particular, save some few where it would have 
been totally inoperative. They point to our progress as an exam- 
ple to their own people ; they copy and circulate the writings of 
our statesmen ; they desire to imitate us so far as it may be pos- 
sible, and to this end they look for a continuance of peace. 

I have carefully noted in my narrative the reception of the ex- 
pedition and the courtesies extended to myself and officers by the 
inhabitants of La Plata as an evidence of their disposition to fra- 
ternize with our people. These countries are worthy of our high- 
est consideration, and if, in diplomatic relations, we are not ably 
represented, then we are not fairly represented, and we do injus- 
tice to ourselves. 



FIRST DISCOVERY OF LA PLATA. 449 



CHAPTEE XXYI. 

First Discovery of the River La Plata by Solis. — Death of Solis. — Sebastian Cabot. 
— First Settlement in La Plata. — Explorations of Cabot. — Indian Hostilities. — 
Highway to El Dorado. — Don Diego Garcia. — Cabot's Dispatch to the Emperor. 
— Pizarro. — Cabot superseded. — Don Pedro de Mendoza. — His Expedition to La 
Plata. — Founding of Buenos Ayres. — Hostility of the Indians. — Attack upon 
Buenos Ayres. — Ayolas. — His Expedition up the River. — Death of Mendoza. — 
Destruction of the Spaniards under Ayolas. — Don Dominguez Yrala. — Founding 
of Asuncion. — Indian Conspiracy. — The Spaniards and the Natives. — Don Al- 
varo Nunez de Vaca. — His Journey across the Continent. — Administration of 
De Vaca. — He is sent back to Spain. — Yrala appointed Adelantado. — Asun- 
cion erected into a Bishopric. — Disasters of the first Adventurers. — Successful 
Administration of Trala. — Commanderies. — Death of Yrala. — Zarate and Garay. 
— Victory over the Indians. — First export Cargo.— Death of Garay. — Final Con- 
quest of La Plata. — Separation from Paraguay. 

To the Narrative of the American Exploring Expedition I ap- 
pend a few chapters giving an abstract of the early history of La 
Plata and the proceedings of the Jesuits in that region. 

The basin of La Plata is one of the three geographical divisions 
of the southern section of our hemisphere, and takes its name from 
the river discovered by Juan Diaz de Solis, great pilot of Castile, 
who, having received from the Spanish Crown command of an 
expedition to follow up the discoveries of Yincent YannesPinson 
upon the Brazilian coast and southward, started in the month of 
September, 1515, with three vessels, one of sixty and two of thirty 
tons, all provisioned for two and a half years. 

Solis, in the same year, reached the entrance of a supposed es- 
tuary, which he ascended for some distance ; discovering it to be 
a river, and finding the navigation intricate, he left his vessels, and 
in a boat ranged the western shores as high as the, island of Mar- 
tin Garcia. Here, deceived by the submissive movements of In- 
dians who placed at their feet provisions and other offerings, the 
explorer, with a few men, ventured to land without due precau- 
tionary measures to guard against the treachery of the savages, 

"who," says Charlevoix, "killed him and all his attendants 

and, stripping the dead carcasses, roasted and ate them in sight 
of those who had remained in the boat, or had taken refuge in it, 
and who had now no other course to take but to return to Spain." 
The right of Spain to one of the fairest regions of the earth was 

29 



450 SEBASTIAN CABOT. 

thus sealed by the blood of the great pilot of Castile, who was, 
according to Herrera, one of the boldest navigators of the da}" ; 
but for some years no steps were taken to follow up his discovery. 

Sebastian Cabot, having left the service of England, entered that 
of Spain in 1512. He was received with every mark of consid- 
eration by Ferdinand, and in 1518 given the post of joiloto major. 
It was reserved for this explorer to reveal the wonderful river 
system of La Plata. Ten years after the death of De Solis he was 
charged by Charles Y. to pass through the Straits of Magellan 
and open a communication with the Spice Islands. This expedi- 
tion, consisting of four small vessels and a caravel, sailed from 
San Lucar April 3d, 1526. Cabot lost his largest ship on the 
coast of Brazil, and observing among his crew a spirit of disaffec- 
tion, which soon ripened into an open mutiny, headed by Martin 
Mendez and Michael Eoxas, two officers next to himself in rank, 
he determined to abandon the voyage to the Moluccas. 

Landing the mutineers at the island of St. Catharine, he, with 
about two hundred brave followers, among them three brothers 
of Vasco Nunez de Balboa, sailed for the Parana Guazu, which 
he ascended to the scene of Solis's disaster. Leaving here his two 
largest vessels, thirty men, and twelve soldiers, Cabot, on the 8th 
of May, 1527, with a brig and caravel, passed through the chan- 
nel which still bears the name he gave it — Las Palmas — and en- 
tered the mouth of the Uruguay ; from thence a boat party was 
sent up the river under the command of Juan Alvarez de Eamon, 
who, after a navigation of three days, ran aground on a sand-bank, 
where he was attacked by the savages. Eamon was killed, but a 
few of the men escaped by swimming, and succeeded in rejoining 
their ships. The expedition next entered the central river — the 
Parana — and off the mouth of the Carcarana, or Zacarania, now 
known as the Tercero, latitude 32° 50', came to anchor. Finding 
the natives, who throughout his ascent nocked in crowds to the 
shore, disposed to be friendly, and enchanted with the beauty of 
the country, Cabot ordered up the remainder of his ships, and 
commenced the first settlement of La Plata, San Espiritu, which 
was, when completed, garrisoned by an officer and sixty men. 

On the 22d of December, 1527, Cabot recommenced his explo- 
ration of the Parana, which he ascended for nine hundred miles 
to latitude 22° 27' 20", longitude 59°, at which point navigation 
was obstructed by the Falls of Apipe. Here the expedition re- 
mained for thirty days, during which time its commander fre- 



DIEGO GARCIA. 451 

quently communicated with the Indians of the bordering coun- 
try, who exhibited an amicable spirit, and gave in exchange for 
articles of little value pieces of gold and silver, which were brought, 
they said, from lands to the west. The explorers next retraced 
their steps to the confluence of the Parana and Paraguay, entered 
the latter river, and ascended to the mouth of the Vermejo, where 
they were attacked by several thousand Payaguas Indians, who 
bore down upon them in three hundred canoes, and were only re- 
pulsed with considerable loss on the part of the Spaniards. The 
second in command, Michael Eifos, and the treasurer of the expe- 
dition were both killed. Seeing the resolute spirit of the invad- 
ers, the savages next made pacific overtures by bringing to them 
provisions and ornaments of precious metals, which, like the Pa- 
rana Indians, they described as coming from the west. Herrera 
says they were the spoils of war taken by the Payaguas in a re- 
cent inroad into the dominions of Huana Capuc. Charlevoix be- 
lieves them to have been part of the effects of the unfortunate 
Portuguese adventurer, Alexis Garcia, who a short time before 
this date had traversed the continent from Brazil to Peru, obtain- 
ed a considerable treasure, and in returning reached the borders 
of the Paraguay, where he was put to death by the Indians. 

Cabot was at this time unaware of the journey of Grarcia, but 
Balboa's letters from the Pacific mentioning a region in the south 
teeming with the precious metals, had reached Spain before the 
sailing of this expedition, and he probably received from the sav- 
ages some definite information of the existence of the Peruvian 
empire. Undoubtedly believing the great river he was explor- 
ing to be a highway to El Dorado, he named it " Eio de la Plata." 

The jealousy of the conquerors, and the avarice of the mer- 
chants of Seville and Lima, who afterward obtained a monopoly 
of the trade of the Pacific provinces, the want of enterprise, and 
the distracted state of the Plata republics since their separation 
from Spain, have left the problem unsolved. It may be among 
the developments of the nineteenth century to prove that Cabot's 
conjectures were correct. The Paraguay may yet be established 
as the most direct communication between Europe and the finest 
districts of the Peruvian empire. 

A rival now appeared in the field. At the mouth of the Ver- 
mejo the explorers met Don Diego Grarcia, who, uninformed of the 
course taken by the expedition of Cabot, had intended to follow 
up the discovery of Solis. Agreeing to continue their work in 



452 PIZAEEO. 

amity the two commanders returned to San Espiritu ; but having 
afterward a misunderstanding, and Garcia's party being greatly 
inferior in numbers, he left the river. Ferdinand Calderon and 
George Barlowe (the latter an Englishman) were dispatched to 
Spain with rich specimens of the precious metals and several Gua- 
rani Indians, whom they were instructed to present to his Spanish 
Majesty, and solicit aid and authority for Cabot to extend his ex- 
plorations westward. 

The messengers, with their human and metallic credentials, 
were well received by the Emperor ; the course of their com- 
mander was approved, and promises were given of assistance. 
But their arrival was immediately followed by that of Francisco 
Pizarro, who reached Spain in May 1528. Cabot had only offered 
conjectures of a golden region west of the Paraguay. Pizarro, 
after incredible hardships, the very recital of which moved his 
Majesty to tears, had reached the borders of Dorado. One asked 
both authority and means to continue his explorations ; the other 
sought only the royal permission, relying upon his own resources. 
He had brought with him material proof of his discoveries. Bal- 
boa had sent home drawings of the lama ; Pizarro now exhibited 
to the Spaniard the wonderful animal itself, with fine fabrics of its 
wool. There were also valuable and artistically -wrought speci- 
mens of the precious metals. The golden empire of the south was 
no longer a chimera of the imaginative adventurers, for they had 
entered the temple of Tumbez and could testify to its exceeding 
riches ; its coating of gems, gold, and silver ; they had visited the 
gardens of the Inca's brides, resplendent with the precious met- 
als ; had actually seen and watched the artisans engaged in the 
formation of its costly decorations. 

Charles was on the eve of starting for Italy to receive the im- 
perial crown from the Eoman Pontiff. Before his departure he 
commended the cause of Pizarro to the General Council of the 
Indies ; the promises made to the messengers from La Plata were 
forgotten. Impatient for their return, uncertain even as to their 
fate, Cabot determined to submit in person his cause to the em- 
peror, and, leaving a garrison of one hundred and ten men at San 
Espiritu, under the command of Nino de Lara,* he sailed for Spain, 

* A cacique of one of the neighboring tribes, having conceived a passion for the 
young and beautiful wife of a Spanish officer, carried her off in the absence of her 
husband and a large part of the garrison of San Epiritu. This led to conflicts with 
the Timbres, and San Espiritu was finally abandoned. 



PEDKO DE MENDOZA. 453 

where lie arrived in 1530, after an absence of nearly five years, 
only to learn the good fortune of Pizarro and his own disappoint- 
ment. As some compensation, he was offered and accepted his 
old post of pilot of Castile. 

If fervently impressed with the value of his discovery, the great 
navigator quietly abandoned to others the right of farther exami- 
nation ; but we must remember that the whole future expense of 
the discovery and settlement of these countries was borne by the 
conquerors from their private resources, or those amassed in the 
course of their explorations. Cabot was not rich, and is repre- 
sented by contemporary writers as singularly gentle and disinter- 
ested in character. He was doubtless totally unfitted for the in- 
trigues of a court, and as the emperor was unwilling or unable 
to afford him assistance, he probably found it difficult, if not im- 
possible, to obtain credit from other sources for a sufficient sum, 
especially when he could offer no proof of the existence of golden 
regions in La Plata, or a connection with Peru more definite than 
that afforded by the reports of the Indians, who gave five hund- 
red leagues as its distance from the Paraguay. 

Don Pedro de Mendoza, a wealthy gentleman of Andalusia, 
who was attached to the Emperor's household, and had served 
with distinction in the Italian wars, next offered to defray all the 
expenses of an expedition to La Plata of a thousand men furnish- 
ed with provisions and equipments for one year. In return he 
was to be endowed with the title of adelantado, and to have a ju- 
risdiction limited only by the concessions already made to Pizarro 
and Almagro. His salary of two thousand ducats was to be de- 
frayed from the lands discovered by Cabot, or from the revenues 
of new conquests; great privileges were likewise conceded to 
those who should accompany him. 

Not only was Mendoza impressed with the anticipation of find- 
ing a direct route to Peru, but the terms of the asiento, u If any 
sovereign prince should fall into their hands the whole of his ran- 
som was to be the reward of the conqueror after deducting the 
royal fifth," suggested a hope of other and neighboring empires 
of equal wealth and civilization. 

A large number of individuals of distinction, among them thir- 
ty noblemen, the eldest sons of their families, and several Flemish 
officers, joined the expedition; there was, indeed, so great a mul- 
titude of all classes* that, instead of a thousand, at the last it was 

* Charlevoix. 



454 INDIAN HOSTILITY. 

found that the number composing it had increased to two thou- 
sand five hundred Spaniards, and one hundred and fifty Germans. 
Don Diego de Mendoza, brother to the adelantado, was appointed 
admiral of the fleet; Don Juan de Osorio, an officer who had 
greatly distinguished himself in Italy, was made commander of 
the troops; and Don Juan de Ayolas was appointed alguazil 
major. Others went out with official appointments from the 
crown, while many of high birth, among them Don Martin de 
Yrala, a Biscay an hidalgo, who subsequently made a name in the 
colony, were satisfied with merely volunteering their services. 

A fleet of fourteen ships with their crews, carrying seventy-two 
horses, completed the expedition, which sailed from San Lucar in 
August, 1534, and after a favorable voyage entered La Plata in 
January, 1535. 

Ascending the river to the Isle of San Gabriel, the ships came 
to anchor ; and on the 2d of February the Spaniards began their 
first settlements on the banks of the Eiachuelo, which they called, 
in honor of the day, and as an expression of their delight with the 
fine climate, " Santa Maria de Buenos Ayres." 

On disembarking the stores it was found that, owing to waste, 
bad management, and the numbers who at the last moment had 
been permitted to join the expedition, the supplies intended for one 
year were nearly exhausted. The savages of the pampas, at first 
allured by the presents of the invaders, brought them abundance 
of provisions ; but as these were exhausted, and familiarity dissi- 
pated the feelings of awe which their first appearance excited, or, 
perhaps, wearied with the task of furnishing food for such num- 
bers, they retired some leagues from the settlement. There was 
but one alternative — to oblige them by force to continue what 
they had voluntarily begun. 

Unfortunately for the adventurers, the first movements to carry 
out this resolution were characterized by neither prudence nor 
sagacity. The admiral, Don Diego Mendoza, who was sent to 
scour the country in command of a small body of cavalry and 
three hundred foot, on the second day discovered a large body of 
savages and essayed a parley ; but, finding that they declined to 
listen to any pacific overtures, the admiral, despising their naked 
strength and rude implements of war, rushed eagerly to the at- 
tack without noting their admirable position on the borders of 
a morass, in which the foot-soldiers soon became entangled, and 
were for a time defenselessly exposed to the arrows of the Que- 



EXPEDITION OF AYOLAS. 455 

randis. The cavalry made a bold charge, and the battle ended in 
the retreat of the savages leaving a thousand slain, but also with 
a loss on the part of the Spaniards of one hundred and sixty men, 
including Don Diego Mendoza, Don Pedro de Guzman, and five 
other gentlemen of distinction — a sacrifice which led to no good 
result. The Indians, for some months after this battle, kept at a 
distance ; they neither brought provisions nor offered submission 
to the invaders, who were soon reduced to the most fearful straits 
through starvation and sickness. 

Ships were ordered to the coast of Brazil for relief; and another 
party, under the command of Ayolas, was sent up the Parana for 
the same purpose. The first returned after poor success, but 
reached Buenos Ayres in time to assist in defending it from the 
attack of twenty thousand Indians, who boldly approached close 
to the mud- walls, over which they threw bolas with matches at- 
tached, threatening entire destruction to the hastily-erected and 
thatched-roof huts within. Fortunately, the guns of several ves- 
sels were brought to bear on the savages, and made such hav- 
oc that they were forced to retreat ; not, however, before several 
houses and vessels were destroyed. 

The return of Ayolas from the Parana with a supply of maize 
gave only temporary relief. This commander, like the great pi- 
lot, was so charmed with the beauty of the upper country and the 
seeming hospitality of the Timbu Indians that he left a hundred 
men to build a new fort, Corpus Christi, near the site of San Es- 
piritu, whither it was resolved by the adelantado to remove the 
remainder of his followers, who were now too glad to abandon 
the scene of so much suffering. From Corpus Christi Ayolas was 
again ordered to explore the upper waters of the Paraguay, and 
'ascended to latitude 25° 38 7 , where he was attacked by a large 
body of Payaguas in boats, whom he beat off, but with the loss 
of fifteen of his men. Continuing his ascent for a few leagues, 
but finding the natives neither disposed to treat nor bring pro- 
visions, Ayolas determined to land and give them battle. A de- 
cisive victory established the superiority of the Spaniards, and 
the savages testified their submission, not only by promising fealty 
and obedience, and bringing abundant supplies of provisions, but 
by offering as presents a number of young Indian girls. 

The conquerors commenced, August 15th, 1536, on the left 
bank, the construction of a fortified house — the first of Asuncion. 
Leaving in it a small garrison, Ayolas continued his exploration 



456 MAETIN DE YEALA. 

of the river to Puerto de Candelaria, in latitude 21° 05', where he 
disembarked and penetrated into the interior, with the hope of 
reaching Peru. 

Mendoza determined to return to Spain. Charging Francisco 
Kuiz with the shipping and one hundred and fifty men left at 
Buenos Ayres, and also with an appointment for Ayolas to act 
as his lieutenant, the unfortunate adelantado, ill and broken- 
hearted, sailed from La Plata. He died on the passage home, 
but with his last breath urged those around him to have succor 
sent to the suffering colonists. 

Don Dominguez Yrala, who had been left at Candelaria in 
charge of the vessels of Ayolas, after waiting nine months with- 
out news from his commander, was forced by want of provisions 
to return to Asuncion. While engaged in strengthening that 
settlement, ships arrived with several hundred men and supplies 
for two years. About the same time Francisco Euiz left Buenos 
Ayres to proceed up the river in search of Ayolas. Joined by 
the garrison at Corpus Christi, which he found driven to great 
straits by the repeated attacks of the Indians, he reached Asun- 
cion soon after the arrival of the relief from Spain. Thus the 
whole of the Spaniards of La Plata, in all six hundred souls, 
were assembled there. The fate of Ayolas and his men had 
been ascertained. Traversing the Chaco and Chiquitos, they had 
reached the borders of Peru, obtained a quantity of the precious 
metals, but in returning were massacred by a party of Payaguas 
Indians near Candelaria. 

The Emperor had ordered the colonists to elect a governor 
should Ayolas not return. Their choice fell upon Yrala, who 
was in all due form proclaimed Captain General of the Kio de la 
Plata, August, 1538. He at once applied himself with energy 
and ability to strengthening the settlement and completing the 
subjugation of the neighboring Ghiarani tribes. The lines of a 
city were drawn, each individual of the community receiving an 
apportionment of land ; the whole was surrounded by a palisade. 
Alcaldes and police were appointed, municipal laws framed, and 
a church and several substantial buildings for public use erected. 
Asuncion was the first, and remained for some time the most con- 
siderable city of La Plata. 

The Spaniards congratulated themselves upon their escape from 
Buenos Ayres to Paraguay, that " blissful country," as Muratori 
calls it, where the climate was benign and the aborigines more 



EXPEDITION OF DE VACA. 457 

docile and civilized than those of the pampas ; for the Guarani 
industriously cultivated their land and raised large crops of 
maize, cassava, and sweet potatoes, which, with honey, fish, fowl, 
and wild animals, gave them abundance of food. They had also 
a wild cotton, from which the women wove such light garments 
as were needful in that climate. 

Some of the natives took refuge with the fiercer tribes of the 
Chaco, others made fruitless attempts at resistance, and, about a 
year from the establishment of Asuncion, a conspiracy to massacre 
the whites during Holy Week was revealed by an Indian girl. 
The leaders were executed, and from this time the neighboring 
tribes east of the river resigned themselves submissively to their 
fate. The women became willingly, indeed eagerly, the wives 
and concubines of the settlers, and a new generation rose, asserting 
nature's claims on both races. The Guarani language was gener- 
ally spoken, and to this day is more generally used than Spanish 
in Paraguay. 

After the death of Mendoza, Don Alvaro Nunez Cabeza de 
Yaca, who had been many years prisoner among the Indians of 
Florida, volunteered to expend eight thousand ducats in equip- 
ping an expedition for La Plata. His offer was accepted, and 
with the title and privileges previously accorded to the deceased 
adelantado, he sailed from San Lucar, November 2d, 1540, with 
four hundred men and forty-six horses. At St. Catharine, March, 
1541, he received the first intelligence of the death of Ayolas and 
the removal of the colonists to Asuncion, and conceived the ex- 
traordinary project of reaching that place by traveling across the 
continent. Sending his vessels round to La Plata under the com- 
mand of Don Philip de Carceres, De Yaca supplied himself with 
beads, hatchets, knives, scissors, and other articles which his ex- 
perience of Indian life had taught him would be useful accesso- 
ries in a march through a country entirely in the possession of the 
savages ; and on the 2d November, 1541, accompanied by two 
hundred and fifty men, and with only twenty horses — all that 
had survived the voyage — he began this extraordinary journey. 

After toiling through the forests of the mountainous regions of 
the coast, the adelantado entered upon a magnificent plain, wa- 
tered by the great river Curitiba, and covered, as far as the eye 
could reach, with the villages and fields of Indians, who received 
him with great hospitality, supplying his party with abundance 
of provisions in return for trinkets of little value. Charmed with 



458 SUCCESSIVE GOVERNORS. 

the beauty and fertility of the land, De Yaca took possession of 
it, in right of discovery, for Spain, and called it Yera, from his 
own family name. Continuing their journey without any discour- 
aging incidents, the Spaniards reached Asuncion after a traverse 
of more than a thousand miles, which was made in one hundred 
and thirty days, and with the loss of only one man, who was 
drowned by the upsetting of a canoe in crossing the Parana. 

This was undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary exploits 
of the conquest of La Plata; but the administrative talents of the 
new adelantado were not equal to the courage or address he had 
shown in this journey, or rather not equal to the control of the 
turbulent spirits of Asuncion. He became involved in difficulties 
with them, which ended in their sending him home, after a close 
imprisonment of ten months, upon charges of maladministration. 
During the short period that he ruled over Paraguay De Yaca 
succeeded in impressing several of the most warlike tribes of the 
Chaco — the Gruaycurus and Agaces — with a due sense of the 
power of Spain, and energetically sought to accomplish, what was 
a prominent object with all the first governors, the opening of a 
communication with Peru. He ascended the Paraguay to the 
lagoons of Xarayes, but the periodical inundations obliged him to 
retrace his course, after having penetrated some distance west. 
It was upon his return from this expedition, in April, 1544, that 
he first encountered the open hostility of a party who, during his 
absence, had assiduously endeavored to undermine his authority. 
Taking advantage of the absence of Yrala, the most energetic and 
popular man of the colony, who had always acquiesced in the 
measures of De Yaca, they dragged the adelantado from a bed 
of sickness, and placed him in irons until a vessel could be pre- 
pared to send him to Spain for trial. The Council of the Indies, 
to whom his case was submitted, after keeping him in suspense 
for nearly eight years, acquitted De Yaca of the charges, but never 
permitted him to return to La Plata. 

Some fatality seemed to attend the governors of this region. 
Don Diego Centino, who had assisted La Gasca in suppressing a 
rebellion in Peru, next received the appointment as adelantado 
of La Plata, when on his death-bed at Chiqusaca. Don Juan de 
Sanabria, his successor, died while engaged in preparations for 
his departure from Spain, and the son of Sanabria, who was next 
appointed adelantado, perished by shipwreck after entering the 
waters of La Plata. 



BISHOPEIC FOUNDED. 459 

The claims of Yrala could no longer be overlooked. Twice, 
subsequent to the death of Ayolas and the deposition of De Yaca, he 
had been chosen governor, and, when superseded, had shown him- 
self a loyal subject by giving the new adelentado the benefit of 
all his great experience. He was not without enemies. Some 
accused him of abandoning Ayolas, without an energetic effort to 
save him from the treachery of the Payaguas ; others asserted 
that he cunningly instigated the intrigues against De Yaca ; but 
there is nothing to support these charges, and evidences of his 
courage, administrative talent, and general popularity meet us on 
all sides. He ascended the Paraguay four successive times ; he 
penetrated to the very borders of Peru, though not permitted by 
La Gasca to enter the country ; and, returning from this memo- 
rable journey after an absence of eighteen months, brought with 
him twelve thousand Indian prisoners. 

On the other side, he had traversed Paraguay, crossed the Pa- 
rana above the great falls, and ascended its left shore to the Tiete, 
whence he overran the Province of La Guayra, and gave a check 
to the Mamelucos by founding the town Ontiveros. 

The Portuguese had instigated the Tupi Indians to make de- 
scents upon the less warlike tribes of Paraguay and carry off their 
prisoners to be sold as slaves to the dealers on the coast. Yrala's 
energetic measures had checked these iniquitous proceedings, and 
from the borders of Peru to the confines of Brazil he made the 
authority of Spain acknowledged and respected. The appoint- 
ment which he received from the crown, in 1555, of adelantado, 
by the hands of Father Pedro de la Torre, the first titular bishop 
of Paraguay, was only a well-earned honor. 

In a consistory held in July, 1547, Asuncion was erected into 
a bishopric, and Father Juan de Barros, of the order of St. Fran- 
cis, was appointed to it. On his nomination to another see with- 
out having entered upon the duties of that in La Plata, Pedro de 
la Torre, of the same order, was named to succeed him and sailed 
the following year. The arrival of the bishop was anticipated 
with delight ; Yrala and the whole Spanish population of Asun- 
cion, who went out to meet him, knelt as he approached and im- 
plored his benediction. He was accompanied by a retinue of 
priests and friars, who were as a "fountain in the desert to the 
poor colonists," thirsty and perishing for spiritual refreshment. 

A series of tragical occurrences marked the discovery and settle- 
ment of La Plata. The bones of the noblest sons of Spain — the 



460 PROGRESS OF SETTLEMENT. 

gallant cavaliers who had served with distinction in the Italian 
wars — were bleaching upon its pampas; massacres had ensan- 
guined its soil ; disappointment, famine, and its consequence, pes- 
tilence and death, had alone formed the burden of reports to the 
mother country. These sacrifices were unrelieved by brilliant 
conquests, or by the reports of auriferous regions. Gold ! was the 
cry of the Spanish adventurers ; its discovery was with them the 
great incentive to action. The name, La Plata, was alluring, and 
the wording of Mendoza's asiento shows that the band of cavaliers 
who joined his expedition were perhaps animated by the expecta- 
tion of finding such empires as 

" Rich Mexico, the seat of Montezuma, 
And Cusco, in Peru, the richer seat 
Of Atabalipa, and yet unspoiled 
Guiana, whose great city Geyron's sons 
Call El Dorado," 

or royal captives, whose ransom would be rooms heaped with the 
precious metal and gems of fabulous size. These hopes vanished 
like the illusions of the mirage. But the climate was benign ; 
land and water teemed with animal life ; there were no inhospita- 
ble elements to contend with, save the hostility of the aborigines ; 
and when we remember that a few years later Cabeza de Yaca, 
with a comparatively small party, traveled the continent from the 
Brazilian coast to Asuncion, and passed through hordes of Indians 
unharmed ; and that De Garay afterward, with so little loss, ob- 
tained a decided victory over the Querandis, when aided by the 
fiercest pampa tribes, we can readily believe that the disastrous 
issue of the first attempt to settle Buenos Ayres arose from the in- 
experience and mismanagement of Mendoza and his chief officers. 

But, thanks to the vigorous administration of a Biscayan hi- 
dalgo, a social and political fabric was at last permanently estab- 
lished north of the confluence of the Parana and Paraguay, and a 
brighter day dawned for the unfortunate settlers, who discovered 
that in the products of the soil were their best and only resource ; 
that its fertility, genial climate, and the exacted but comparatively 
reasonable labor of the Indians promised them homes offering an 
abundance of the comforts of life. As the earth yielded its fruits 
with the smallest possible labor, there was no temptation to an 
abuse of aboriginal labor. 

Policy as well as duty dictated a considerate course toward the 
Indians ; and the laws of Yrala, who was assisted by the counsels 



TREATMENT OF THE INDIANS. 461 

of the bishop, for their entire subjugation, though vigorous, were 
made with all due regard for their physical and spiritual wel- 
fare. Many voluntarily offered themselves to the Spaniards as 
domestics ; others, prisoners of war, were divided into a class of 
commanderies, called yanaconas ; each commander receiving the 
control of a certain number of both sexes and all ages ; and in 
accepting them he assumed the obligation to feed, clothe, and take 
proper care of them when sick or disabled from labor by age or 
infirmity, and to afford them due spiritual instruction. An ex- 
amination was made into their condition each year by the govern- 
ment, and where the Indian considered himself aggrieved he had 
the right to be heard. 

Another class, called mitayos, was formed of such tribes as had 
capitulated in war, or voluntarily offered their submission to the 
government. These were collected in villages, controlled by mu- 
nicipal laws and an alcalde, generally selected from among their 
caciques. But the whole were subject to the supervision of Span- 
ish officers. In these commanderies all females, caciques, eldest 
sons, and children were exempt from forced labor; males only, 
from eighteen to fifty-one, being compelled to work one-sixth of 
their time for the whites. Even this time was given in rotation. 
The conquerors received this service for two lives only, during 
which period the Indian could neither be sold nor alienated, and 
at its expiration he was free. In 1612 a new code was promulgat- 
ed, abolishing, all forced servitude. 

The Governor of Asuncion extended his system to Guayra ; a 
Spanish force was sent to take possession of the country, and forty 
thousand Indian families were divided into commanderies. The 
site of Ontiveras proving sickly, the town of Ciudad Eeal was 
founded higher up the river. On the Paraguay settlements were 
made in the lands of the Xarayes to facilitate communication with 
Peru ; and one was attempted — -though afterward abandoned in 
consequence of the hostility of the Charruas Indians — on the east 
side of La Plata at its confluence with the St. Juan, nearly oppo- 
site to the site of Buenos Ayres. In short the conquest of all 
Paraguay was completed. 

While Yrala was taking advantage of this happy healthful con- 
dition of affairs, to devote his energies to the embellishment and 
extension of the capital, Asuncion, he was carried off by a fever 
(1557) at the ripe age of seventy, and lamented by the whole 
population, aboriginal and Spanish. Twenty years of his life had 



462 JUAN DE GAKAY. 

been spent in a series of enterprises for the conquest and settle- 
ment of the country. Daring, generous, kind to his people, full 
of resources, of extraordinary personal prowess — displayed on one 
occasion by slaying twelve Payaguas Indians who at once attack- 
ed him — Yrala is justly considered one of the ablest and most for- 
tunate of the conquistadores. 

After the death of this governor Paraguay was distracted for a 
long time by the dissensions of parties who were striving to ob- 
tain a controlling influence in the affairs of the colony ; but the 
rivalries of factions rather stimulated than crushed the indomita- 
ble spirit of enterprise that characterized the Spaniards of that 
age, and towns and cities rose in the most distant corners of the 
basin of La Plata. In 1560 Chaves founded Santa Cruz de la 
Sierra, the farthest settlement northwest of the Paraguay; and 
after the conquest of the Querandis of Buenos Ayres, Spanish do- 
minion was established from the mouth of the Plata to Parana on 
the Pacific Ocean. 

In 1557 Don Juan de Garay, while founding a settlement at 
Santa Fe, in the vicinity of Cabot's old fort, San Espiritu, heard 
of the arrival on the coast of what is now the Banda Oriental of 
the adelentado Don Juan Ortiz de Zarate, who, having received 
the appointment from the Viceroy of Peru, had visited Spain foi 
the purpose of obtaining its confirmation. He had succeeded in 
his mission, and sailed in 1572 with nearly five hundred volun- 
teers, half of whom died before reaching La Plata from the priva- 
tions and hardships of the voyage, while the remainder, having 
landed on the east coast, were surrounded by the warlike Char- 
ruas. De Garay, fighting his way through hostile tribes, at last 
succeeded in giving assistance to the adelantado and his besieged 
party, who, under his guidance, reached Paraguay in safety. Za- 
rate died in 1575, a few months after his arrival at Asuncion, 
but testified his gratitude to the bold De Garay by leaving him 
guardian of his only daughter — who, in right of the law confer- 
ring the adelantasgo for two lives, was his successor — and appoint- 
ing him captain general and lieutenant governor during her mi- 
nority. The honest zeal displayed by the lieutenant governor 
for the welfare of Zarate's daughter, his. success in reconciling 
many rival parties, and the energy with which he promoted the 
general interests of the people, proved that he was in every way 
worthy of the trust reposed in him by the deceased adelantado. 

After restoring peace among the colonists and successfully car- 



FOUNDING OF BUENOS AYRES. 463 

rying out many of Yrala's original projects for extending Spanish, 
authority over neighboring countries, by forming reductions and 
founding villages and towns, De Garay, hearing that the Pampa 
Indians were distracted by tribal dissensions, thought it a propi- 
tious time to descend the river and found a town near the mouth 
of La Plata. The frequent disasters to vessels from Spain had 
shown the absolute necessity of a port where ships and boats as- 
cending and descending the river might find a safe harbor, or rest 
and refreshment after a long voyage. He effected a landing with- 
out opposition near the Eiachuelo ; selected a site in the vicinity 
of Mendoza's former settlement for the new city, which was com- 
menced on the festival of the Holy Trinity, 1580, with the name 
of " Cuidad de la Santissima Trinidad." For the port the name 
given by Mendoza, of " Santa Maria de Buenos Ay res," was re- 
tained. 

It must not be supposed, however, that the works of the town 
were continued without molestation from the savages. Though 
absent when the expedition first arrived, the Querandis, when 
they learned of this fresh invasion of the white man, assembled 
all the tribes in alliance with them from far and near; and, led 
by Taboba, the greatest warrior of the country, bore down upon 
the founders of the new city. De Garay's men boldly sallied forth 
from their intrenchments, and a fierce sanguinary battle followed, 
the savages only giving way when they saw the fall of their chief. 
They then fled in every direction, closely pursued by the Span- 
iards ; and so great was the slaughter, that the scene of the conflict, 
near the Barracas, upon the Eiachuelo, is to this day known as 
Matanza, or the " Killing Ground." The lands on the river side, 
from Buenos Ayres to Baradero on the, Parana, with the neigh- 
boring Indians, who soon gave in their submission, were divided 
among sixty -five of De Garay's followers. 

For three years the governor continued to occupy himself 
with great energy in strengthening the new settlement and regu- 
lating its affairs ; and before his return to Paraguay he had the 
satisfaction of dispatching a vessel to Spain with an account of 
his conquest ; but, above all, freighted with a cargo of the first 
products ever exported from La Plata — hides and sugar ; the first 
as an evidence of the extraordinary adaptation of the pampa 
country for the raising of horned cattle, the original stock having 
only been introduced thirty years before. 

In returning to Asuncion in 1553, De Garay, having incautious- 



.464 SEPARATION FROM PARAGUAY. 

ly ventured to sleep ashore, near the site of San Espiritu, was 
murdered by a party of Minuas. His death was greatly deplored 
throughout Paraguay, and his name is associated with that of 
Yrala as one of the bravest, discreetest, and most beneficent of the 
first rulers of that country. From the permanent establishment 
of the town of Buenos Ayres the conquest of La Plata may be 
regarded as achieved, the foundation of towns which still exist in 
its various provinces having previously been made. But for 
many years the colonists were disturbed by the open hostility or 
treacherous attacks of the Indians. 

Owing to the rapid increase of European population, all the 
country south of the confluence of the Paraguay and Parana was 
in 1620 separated from Paraguay, and the government of the 
" Bio de la Plata" established, with Buenos Ayres for its capital. 
At the same period Pope Paul V., at the request of the Spanish 
sovereign, Philip III., made it the seat of a bishopric. 



THE JESUITS. 



465 




IGNATIUS LOYOLA. 



CHAPTEE XXYIL 

Arrival of the Jesuits in South America. — A pious Fraud. — Early Missionaries. — 
St. Francis Solano. — Chaco Indians. — Fathers Cataldino and Marcerata proceed 
to Guayra. — Foundation of Loreto. — St. Ignatius, St. Thomas, and the twelve 
Missions. — Establishment and Destruction of the Uruguay Reductions. — Mame- 
lucos of St. Paul. — Persecutions of the Indians. — Attack upon Guayra. — Retreat 
of the twelve Thousand to the Salto Grande.— Descent of the Falls. — Peace at 
last. — Renewal of the Uruguay Reductions. — Bickerings between Ecclesiastics 
and Laymen. — Retreat of another twelve thousand. — Fathers De Montoya and 
Tano are dispatched to the Continent : their Missions are crowned with Suc- 
cess. — Fire-arms and papal Briefs. — Another Attack of the Mamelucos. — Battle 
of Acaray. — Triumph of the Reduction Indians. — DonBernardin de Cardenas. — 
Excommunications. — Penitence of the Governor. — Deposition of the Bishop. — 
Return to Asuncion. — The Dictator. — Cardenas is relieved of his assumed Au- 
thority and retires to La Plata. — Defeat of the Mamelucos and Guaycurus. — 
Services of the Reduction Indians. 

The French soldier who, at the siege of Pampeluna, brought 
to the ground its gallant defender, little thought what a work he 

30 



±66 THE JESUITS IN LA PLATA. 

was consummating. The wounded, disabled, suffering founder of 
the Jesuit order, while perusing the holy and miraculous life of 
the Savior, instead of the adventures of knights-errant, could 
have had but a faint consciousness how deeply the new spirit was 
moving him, and how perfect a regeneration he was about to im- 
part, not only to his own inner being, but to thousands and ten 
thousands of Grod's unredeemed creatures. But the same voice 
that arrested the persecutor on his way to Damascus here spoke 
through the pages of Holy Writ, and converted a brave soldier 
and his few followers into the most dauntless champions of Chris- 
tianity the world has seen since the days of Paul. And thus Ig- 
natius Loyola founded an order, probably the most complete and 
united in itself on record, but into the history of which enter dif- 
ferences, divisions, and disputes, inviting either to the partisan who 
would unite in the enthusiasm or bitterness of one cause or the 
other, or to the impartial writer who would censure or applaud in 
an equal measure of justice. For where one has found pious zeal, 
unwearying devotion, and every worldly sacrifice wherewith to 
stamp an imperishable glory upon the deeds of Loyola's sons, an- 
other has presented a picture of selfish designs, base intrigues, se- 
cret plottings, and inordinate ambition. 

That portion of the history of the Jesuits to be considered here 
conveys a very favorable sense of the mission marked out for many 
of the fathers. Whatever their European wranglings may have 
been, they scarcely extend to the reductions of South America. 
How low soever may have been their court intrigue, according to 
writers well informed or not, in the supplanting of ministers and 
strife for offices of power, a lofty calling awaited the Jesuits in 
the vast region of Paraguay. Pascal, Pombal, Choiseul, Aranda, 
Louis XV., Madame de Pompadour, Charles III., and the like, may 
have applied all the asperities of their respective languages to de- 
preciate the Jesuit influence, but on this side of the Atlantic their 
work was holy. 

Montesquieu, in speaking of the company of Jesus, says: " It 
is to its glory to have been the first to associate in those regions 
the idea of religion with that of humanity; in repairing the devas- 
tations of the Spaniards it undertook to cure one of the greatest 
sores that have ever infected the human race."* 

Voltaire admits that, " The establishment in Paraguay of the 

* Esprit des Lois, liv. iv., chap. vi. 



PIOUS FRAUDS. 467 

Spanish. Jesuits alone seems, in some respects, to be the triumph 
of humanity."* 

Then let the means serve the end, and though the fathers may 
at times be found erring from a path strictly scrupulous, let it be 
borne in mind that it is for purposes not unworthy of good men. 

About half a century from the discovery of the western con- 
tinent, and nine years after the followers of Loyola had been or- 
ganized into a religious body, a few Portuguese Jesuits accom- 
panying the expedition of Don' Thomas de Soza, Governor of 
Brazil, landed at Bahia de todos los Santos. They were the first 
of that order destined to fulfill the duties of the missionary among 
the aborigines of South America ; and, faithful to their vocation, 
they were soon engaged in the arduous task of converting them to 
Christianity. These fathers are supposed to have facilitated their 
labors by a pious fraud. They came as the descendants of St. 
Thomas, the apostle of Christ, as chosen delegates to proclaim 
eternal peace and happiness to all those who would bow to the 
cross and come within the pale of the great Mother Church. 

The supernatural and the marvelous are alluring to minds 
darkened by ignorance and superstition. Savonarola compre- 
hended the springs of human impulse when he declared to a big- 
oted multitude that he was gifted with something more than the 
ordinary powers of man, for strange was the devotion of his fol- 
lowers even to the fiery ordeal. So also did the Indians believe 
that St. Thomas, the subject of every missionary's discourse, had 
assumed the guardianship of the land. So did they credit and 
adopt, as one always familiar to them, the tradition to which the 
Jesuitic teachings gave rise — that St. Thomas had landed on the 
coast of Brazil, journeyed throughout the vast country of the Gua- 
rani race, preaching, cross in hand, Christianizing savages, and tam- 
ing wild beasts ; then, that he traversed the grassy deserts of the 
Grand Chaco ; and finally crossed the Andes into Peru, when he 
must have descended, like the setting sun, into the Pacific, as we 
hear of him no farther. There was still another mystery con- 
nected with this mission of the apostle. It was taught and be- 
lieved, that the cross he bore had been hidden by some uncon- 
verted Indians in a lake near Chiquisaca, and there found by a 
Padre Sarmiento.f 

* Essai sur les Moeurs. 

f Don Pedro Alvear, commissioner appointed for adjusting the boundary line 
between Spanish America and Brazil. 



468 ST - FKANCIS SOLANO. 

Thus the Jesuits began their early teachings. ■ Physically, mor- 
ally, and spiritually dauntless; their boldness of speech was soon 
made practical in an equal boldness of action ; and so early did 
they succeed in engaging the reverence of the natives that, from 
the outset, not all the panoply of Mars could have given them 
such sense of security as did their humble garb and sandal-shod 
feet. A way was forced into the depths of the forest that stretch- 
ed westward, and in this direction they pursued a perilous course 
until the Parana rolled majestically before them, and the hardy 
fathers found themselves in Spanish territory, brought into con- 
tact with the settlers of La Plata, who received them with all the 
marks of consideration their good intentions could claim. 

We read much of the spiritual thirstings of the first conquista- 
dores. The discovery of Peruvian gold never elicited more joy- 
ous demonstrations than the arrival, during the early stages of 
the conquest, of a few ecclesiastics. The slackened zeal of mod- 
ern times conveys no sense of the religious spirit of that age, 
and the Church was careful to make an early recognition of this 
devotion in the elevation of Asuncion to the dignity of a bishop- 
ric, an honor conferred upon the rising capital of La Plata by 
Pope Paul III. Indeed similar appointments were soon after 
made for Tucuman, Cordova, and several other cities of New Spain 
noted for their fervency. 

Yet, notwithstanding the establishment of these bishoprics, they 
were at first but feebly sustained. Very few of the Jesuits who 
had landed on the South American Continent had at that period 
reached this interior portion of it, and as missionaries their want 
was severely felt. The ecclesiastics who administered religious 
instruction and the holy mysteries in the provinces of Paraguay* 
up to the latter part of the 16th century were mainly of the Fran- 
ciscan order ; men of zeal, but endowed with little of the nerve 
and indomitable perseverance so conspicuous in the Jesuit, whose 
advent in these times was soon to be the dawn of a new religious 
era. 

Among the Franciscans the most deservingly prominent is St. 
Francis Solano. He came from Peru for the purpose of convert- 
ing the wild nomads of the Chaco, a project attended with no lit- 
tle success, notwithstanding its uninviting prospects. Solano's 
career, according to Charlevoix, was that of "a saint whose zeal 
knew no bounds, and whom God invested with the gift of mira- 

* The name of Paraguay was then given to the whole of La Plata. 



THE JESUITS AND THE INDIANS. 469 

cles to such a degree that the inhabitants considered him as some- 
thing more than a mortal being." His name grew into a watch- 
word to those who languished in the service of the Church, and 
many flocked eagerly to his banner; but while unceasingly en- 
gaged in this holy work he was recalled by his superiors from the 
field of his labors.* The soul of the enterprise for redeeming the 
tribes of the Chaco, its existence ceased at his departure, and a 
temporary check was given to any further advancement. The 
Bishop of Tucuman, however, thought to give a new impulse to 
the missionary work, and secure the conversions Solano had al- 
ready made. There were evidences of a rich spiritual harvest 
which needed but the reapers, and he judiciously concluded that 
more faithful and more successful instruments could not be found 
than the members of the Jesuit order. The experience of thirty 
years had shown that they alone were in every way fitted for the 
hardships and reverses of a missionary's life. 

So the bishop sought in Brazil and Peru this much-needed as- 
sistance, imploring them in somewhat vehement style, iC by the 
entrails of Jesus Christ" to grant the request. There was no dif- 
ficulty in complying. Ee-enforcements from both countries arrived 
in 1586 to appease the religious hunger of the land, the fathers 
from Peru settling in Santiago, then a town of about 2500 inhab- 
itants, and those from Brazil entering Cordova amid acclamations 
that testified to their heartfelt welcome. The gushing of water 
from the rock could not have been received more gratefully than 
the arrival of these Jesuits. They came as " angels from heaven," 
says a writer of their order, hailed by the shouts of the people 
and the Te Deum of the Church. 

But there are schemes and designs lurking beneath the surface 
which gradually develop themselves. The Jesuit's vocation be- 
gins to stand out prominently before the world, and it is to ben- 
efit the native, whose interests are early and faithfully taken to 
heart. This course, as politic as just and generous, soon proved a 
source of exacerbated feeling between the Spanish population and 
the fathers. 

The various tribes bordering on the Chaco had bidden fair to 
receive the baptism of the Church under the teachings of Solano, 
but their hostile disposition was found to permit of little success 
after his departure. Living mostly on horseback, subsisting by 
the chase, and continually wandering from one portion of the 

* Charlevoix, vol. i., p. 194. 



470 OPPOSITION OF THE COLONISTS. 

country to the other, each lord of all he surveyed for the time be- 
ing, they could not be led to settle quietly into a religious com- 
munity. Other more favorable localities were sought and discov- 
ered. The tribes east of the Parana and Paraguay, supposed to 
be of Peruvian origin, and especially those in the neighborhood 
of Asuncion, were found to be more docile and in the enjoyment 
of comparative civilization. The attention of the fathers was 
therefore given to this quarter of the continent as the most open 
to the spiritual conquests they had been so long anticipating. 
The Province of Gruayra was looked upon as possessing inviting 
prospects ; thither the chosen fathers, Ortega and Fields, the former 
a Portuguese, the latter a Scotchman, directed their steps. Pro- 
ceeding to Ciudad Eeal — founded first in 1557 by Eui Diaz Mel- 
garejo, under command of Yrala — they boldly advanced into the 
wildest districts of the country, and in a short time gathered 
around them " two hundred thousand Indians quite ripe for the 
kingdom of Grod."* Charlevoix must be in error with regard to 
the number, but they doubtless laid extensive foundations for the 
missions that ere long dotted the province. 

The Jesuit name began in the mean time to grow in favor 
among the natives, for most zealously did the order espouse their 
interests, in doing which it could but incur the enmity of the 
Spaniards. The larger portion of the population regarded it as a 
right, a privilege in virtue of conquest, that they should enslave 
the Indians or force them to their service, and would compromise 
for nothing less. The fathers, to diminish this servitude, but un- 
doubtedly aiming also to establish church communities which 
should be separate from and independent of the cities, reasoned 
against this right. Thus there was soon sufficient ground for the 
growth of a future contest. The two parties had been for some 
time nursing this enmity, and on the arrival of the " Provincial" 
did not hesitate to make open hostile advances the one against 
the other. 

It was in 1607 that the Father Diego de Torres, of Eome, at- 
tended by fifteen clerical assistants, arrived in South America in 
the quality of Provincial of Peru and Chili. He immediately 
placed himself at the head of those who had opposed the cruelties 
at all times exercised over the natives. He made it his chief aim 
and duty to alleviate their sufferings and to put an end to the 
bloody strifes that had year after year been waging between the 

* Charlevoix, vol. i., p. 155. 



DIEGO DE TORRES. 471 

conquerors and the conquered. Oftentimes the taunted spirit of 
the latter had goaded them on to some desperate act of revenge, 
or carried fire and destruction into infant settlements. This, too, 
the fathers sought to check. 

" Nor would, with all their power, the King of Spain, 
Austrian, or Bourbon, have at last availed 
This torrent of destruction to restrain, 
And save a people every where assailed 
By men before whose face their courage quailed, 
But for the virtuous agency of those 
Who, with the cross alone, when arms had failed, 
Achieved a peaceful triumph o'er the foes 
And gave that weary land the blessings of repose."* 

The Provincial crossed from Peru into the country now known 
as the Argentine Confederation, passing through Jujuy, Salta, 
Santiago, and visited all the important cities west of the Para- 
guay. His arrival was every where hailed with the most enthu- 
siastic demonstrations, and every grateful acknowledgment was 
lavished upon him. But even the limited number of individu- 
als composing his retinue, at first a subject of regret, was soon 
found sufficient to create distrust, and indeed not a little startle 
the people of Tucuman by the lenient and indulgent course they 
proposed pursuing toward the much-aggrieved Indians. It was 
not expected that De Torres should advocate such a cause, and 
it proved too much at variance with their preconceived ideas of 
the treatment due to these people to at all elevate the Provin- 
cial in their good opinion. When, upon one occasion, he gave 
pecuniary compensation to a number of native laborers who had 
assisted in the erection of a church at Cordova, it was considered 
a grievous offense, and met only with the most vehement clamors 
against its injustice. 

The Provincial, having made by such examples many enemies 
on the west of the Paraguay, found his way to Asuncion ; but a 
rumor of his preachings had preceded him, and roused a by no 
means amicable spirit in his behalf. Such indeed were the hostile 
feelings entertained toward him, that he entered the city only by 
the intercession of the governor and bishop. 

These later demonstrations signally failed in their desired ef- 
fects ; for, about this time, that is, toward the latter part of 1609, 
new instructions were received from his Spanish Majesty which 
entirely conformed with the views of the Provincial. Commands 

* Southey :' Tale of Paraguay. 



472 LABOES OF THE JESUITS. 

for the conversion and liberation of the Indians were so urgently 
conveyed that the authorities of Asuncion deemed it proper to 
immediately comply, although they had not unfrequently disre- 
garded such royal ordinances, trusting for security in their dis- 
tant and isolated position. To carry into effect the new decree, 
particular attention was, as heretofore, given to the Gruarani race, 
stretching over the immense tract of country lying between the 
Parana and Paraguay Eivers and the Atlantic Ocean, and resem- 
bling in nothing the warlike Charuas and Abipones in the vicinity 
of the western cities. 

Lewis de Bolanos, a disciple of Solano and translator of the 
Catechism into the Gruarani language, was among the first actively 
engaged in the conversion of these natives. He had confined 
himself, however, to the neighborhood of Asuncion. The Pro- 
vincial proposed to extend the benign influence of the Church 
into more interior regions, to immediately follow in the footsteps 
of Ortega and Fields, and reap the reward that seemed there to 
await them. For this duty were chosen Fathers Cataldino and 
Marcerata. They consented to accept it under certain conditions, 
and these conditions embodied the policy of the Jesuits : they 
must be permitted to build churches and incorporate towns inde- 
pendent of all Spanish influence or control, and the privilege 
should moreover be extended to them of opposing in the king's 
name all those who should attempt to reduce the natives to per- 
sonal servitude. These demands were finally acceded to, though 
at first somewhat ungraciously received. 

The destination of the fathers was the Province of Guayra, at 
that time, as now, after a lapse of two centuries and a half, very 
little known. We can readily imagine that there were many im- 
pediments of a very serious character in the journey of these two 
Jesuits. Though passing through a country neither mountainous 
nor inhospitable, as regards climate, it presented other features of 
obstruction : its thickly-grown and trackless forests, its broad in- 
undating rivers,* and hordes of uncivilized Indians, were alone 
sufficient to daunt the boldest travelers. It may be noticed at 
this point that intrigue and cunning are words familiarly and un- 
hesitatingly associated with the Jesuit; but nothing is hazarded 
in saying that in their labors among the La Plata savages an en- 
ergy, piety, zeal, and perseverance worthy of the best cause are 

* Several of Ortega's companions, when traveling among the Guarani, perished 
by one of these sudden overflows of water, and the father barely saved his own life. 



THEIE PKEACHING. 473 

eminently conspicuous. It may be safely added that no historical 
church order can boast among its members of such activity, devo- 
tion, and self-sacrifice as have distinguished the sons of Loyola 
in their missionary labors over the entire surface of the globe. 
There was in this order that unity of thought and action which 
gave its every step an irresistible momentum — a secret, invisible, 
but iron link, that bound all its parts into unison and harmony. 
The same spirit moved and had its being in the Jesuit, whether as 
keeper of kings' consciences and ruler in the councils of nations ; 
whether superintending the observatory at Kome or that of Pekin, 
in the mandarin's garb ; whether in Japan or Paraguay ; whether 
engaged in heated controversy with Pascal and Pombal, or devot- 
ing a life to the savages of Africa and America, in explanation 
of the signs, symbols, and mysteries of the Holy Church, of the 
rotation of the heavenly bodies and the wonders of the universe. 
Fathers Cataldino and Marcerata were equally in their proper 
sphere, whether in the thickets and woods of Paraguay and the 
pampas of the Chaco or at the court of Madrid. A buoyant un- 
tiring zeal bore them on, as it did their predecessors and their 
successors, in whatever duties and charges fell to their share. 

Ciudad Eeal and Yilla Pica lay in their way, but the inhabit-, 
tants of these two towns had grown as sensitive as the rest of the 
Spanish population in the country with regard to the encroach- 
ments of the fathers upon their imaginary rights, and so with- 
drew their previously proffered assistance. They found little or 
no sympathy among their own countrymen, but, thankful that 
they were held in better esteem by the natives, they pushed on for 
Gruayra; journeying by land until reaching the Paranapane, they 
embarked upon this river (a beautiful and well- wooded stream), 
and ascended to the mouth of the Pirape, one of its tributaries. 
Like a vision, they now beheld the banks crowded with Indians 
in expectation of their arrival, and prepared to welcome them in 
their midst. Drawing their boats to shore, they landed.* 

Entering into an explanation of their mission, no difficulties were 
experienced in reconciling the natives to the destiny thus shaped 
out for them. And 

"Then the black-robe chief, the prophet, 
Told his message to the people — 
Told the purport of his mission ; 
Told them of the Virgin Mary, 



* Charlevoix, vol. i., p. 247. 



474 THE FIRST MISSION. 

And her blessed Son, the Saviour, 

How in distant lands and ages 

He had lived on earth as we do ; 

How He fasted, prayed, and labored ; 

How the Jews, the tribe accursed, 

Mocked Him, scourged Him, crucified Him ; 

How He rose from where they laid Him, 

Walked again with his disciples, 

And ascended into heaven." 

No doubt 

" The chiefs made answer, saying : 
We have listened to your message, 
We have heard your words of wisdom, 
We will think on what you tell us : 
It is well for us, brothers ! 
That you came so far to see us." 

They had conceived a reverence for the missionaries, as unex- 
pected as it was sincere ; and from the assurances that had been 
held out, did not doubt but that life, under their guidance, would 
be most happy. Voluntarily and eagerly yielding to their direc- 
tion and commands, baptism was administered to young and old, 
and the whole assembly, consisting of several hundred families, 
submit in peaceful obedience to Christian rule. Means are de- 
vised by which the wants of this new people may be supplied. 
The immediate project is to lay out the foundations of a perma- 
nent mission, and the present locality, hallowed by the scenes that 
had just transpired, seemed suited to this purpose. It is chosen. 
Here, then, at the mouth of the Pirape, the few workmen who had 
accompanied the fathers, assisted by the natives, begin their labors 
toward the construction of this Christian village ; it is called Lo- 
reto, the first of the famed Paraguay missions, and stands out a 
bright and redeeming spot in the savage country that surrounds it. 

Huts were hastily erected to shelter the people from the inclem- 
ency of the weather, and soon the church, and other public 
buildings rose up in stately proportions from their foundations. 
Loreto increased in wealth and prosperity ; it had well-cultivated 
fields, a peaceful and diligent population, among whom were num- 
bered agriculturists, mechanics, and artisans. The training of the 
rising generation was not neglected ; it grew up impressed with a 
perfect sense of the obligations due the missionary. Many were 
the benefits bestowed, and there was no want of followers in re- 
turn. The embassy of the fathers was one of peace ; they used 
no arms but those of words ; they had apparently but one object, 
and that was the welfare of the Indian. 



PROGRESS OF MISSIONS. 475 

Keports of this success reached Asuncion, and it was responded 
to by the departure of several fathers and assistants for the new 
field. Such were, in the mean time, the number of natives that 
flocked to the mission or reduction, as it was styled, that the 
fathers probably found it difficult to enforce the regulations that 
entered into their peculiar government. It seems to have always 
been their policy, and it may in most instances have arisen from 
necessity, never to allow a larger population to accumulate in one 
town than could be intrusted to the care of two or three of their 
order ; hence other localities were sought for new missionSj and 
the arrival of assistance hastened these measures. The second 
reduction was called, in honor of the father of the order, St. Ig- 
natius. Others followed in rapid succession until the province 
counted no less than twelve. One received the name of St. Thom- 
as, for by a tradition of the Indians or Jesuits — it would be dif- 
ficult to say which — in the mound upon which it was built that 
apostle had interred a number of Christians. 

This success in Gruayra awakened a missionary spirit in every 
Spanish city and town. Besides some scattering reductions along 
the Parana, we find them in 1627 rising on the banks of the Uru- 
guay, amid warlike tribes of Indians who had again and again 
baffled the arms of Spain, but appeared for the moment to lean to 
the more moderate rule of the Church. Father Gronzalez is the 
indefatigable character here presented to us. Attended by two 
assistants he found his way to the Uruguay, and succeeded in 
establishing two or three small missions with every prospect of 
future prosperity. With rare enterprise he undertook at the same 
time to survey the unknown regions of country that stretched far 
around him ; he entered the Province of Tape, and would, had 
not an untimely death sealed his fate, have extended his labors 
throughout the Uruguay basin. It was while thus engaged, and 
at the same time watchfully guarding his small but growing 
towns, that he was called upon to battle with rebellious proselytes 
and neighboring unfriendly tribes. Adherence to a determination 
not to abandon his flock cost him his life. The reductions were 
attacked and the inhabitants ruthlessly murdered. The fathers 
all perished — one was stoned to death. Gronzalez is regarded as 
one of the missionary martyrs. He did indeed apply all his ener- 
gies and devote his whole soul to t^ie great work of conversion 
which was illuminating the many dark places of Spanish and 
Portuguese rule with the lights of Gospel truth. Every danger, 



476 OPPOSITION OF THE MAMELUCOS. 

every sacrifice seems to have been met by him with a stoic calm 
that marked him the divine instrument he was. Father Tanner, 
in his Societas Jesu usque ad sanguinis et vitce profusionem, enumer- 
ates tersely the many trials of the father — "incredibile dictu est," 
says he, " quanta in hisce molitionibus dura atque adversa tolera- 
nt, edendi bibendique penuriam, lecti, testi ac vestium inopiam, 
aestum, lassitudinem, sudorem et defectionem virium." He was 
born in Asuncion, according to the same writer, "parentibus His- 
panis et nobilitate et virtute claris." 

This was the sad beginning of a succession of severe trials and 
hardships, which required all Christian fortitude and Jesuit reso- 
luteness to face. The warlike Indians proved unfortunately not 
to be the only obstacles to the missionary's work : an ill-forbod- 
ing storm arose in another quarter, the town of San Paulo, taking 
us back to'Ghiayra. 

The city of San Paulo was at this time a den of pirates and 
marauding gangs, the safe retreat of all outlawed Spanish or Por- 
tuguese adventurers, who chanced to find their way to the Bra- 
zilian coast. Slave-dealers by profession, they speedily overrode 
the influence and power of the Church, and drove out its minis- 
ters. Their town became the great slave-mart whence issued 
thousands and ten thousands of Indians to be bartered away on 
the public squares of the Atlantic cities. Here they assembled 
day after day, as party after party returned from its inhuman ex- 
pedition, the crowds of trembling, bleeding wretches that had 
been hunted and captured in some distant wilds never before 
trodden by the white man. Their passage was every where mark- 
ed with destruction and depopulation without check or remon- 
strance. The intricacies of the forest were pierced in their savage 
pursuit, and the natives followed to their most secret hiding- 
places. 

These well-trained, well-armed, roaming, pillaging Paulistas or 
Mamelucos, as they were popularly called, became the dread and 
scourge of this beautiful land. Many of the persecuted Gruarani 
by good fortune found their way to the newly-established mis- 
sions of Gruayra, and took refuge under the government of the 
Jesuit fathers ; indeed the tide of population, like a retreating 
army, had gradually receded to this point, the hungry enemy 
still hanging on its flank. The Jesuits embraced earnestly the 
opportunity of affording these natives, under such trying circum- 
stances, every assistance and protection, and so brought upon 



MISCONDUCT OF CESPEDEZ. 477 

themselves and their missions the Mamelucos' merciless revenge. 
Notice soon arrived of their but too rapid advance, foreshadowing 
a general onslaught upon the hapless reductions. The accounts 
of coming danger were quickly confirmed by an attack upon the 
two frontier missions, St. Anthony and St. Michael ; many inhab- 
itants perished, but the greater number remained the prisoners 
and property of the enemy. The retreating few fell back upon 
the " Incarnation," which in turn underwent its ordeal of fire and 
sword. 

Unfortunately for the Jesuits and for Spain herself, Don Lewis 
Cespedez was at this time Governor of Asuncion. His wife, a 
Portuguese woman, bore an ill-will to the Spanish, which was only 
surpassed by her hatred of Loyola's order. The governor, acting 
under this influence, as well as from entertaining of his own oc- 
cord no very amicable feelings for the fathers, turned a deaf ear 
to their entreaties for succor against the invading bandits of St. 
Paul. He showed in this matter a dereliction of duty as weak as 
it was infamous — injurious to himself and treacherous to his gov- 
ernment. Personal aversions were indulged, and personal dislikes 
satisfied, that he might play away Spanish territory into the hands 
of Spain's most inveterate rival and enemy on the southern con- 
tinent. It was not a difficult game, and the loss and gain are 
easily traced. To-day the Portuguese or Brazilians embrace with- 
in the limits of their empire far more territory than they were 
virtually entitled to, and all that they have acquired in addition 
to their original possessions, was permitted to slip through Span- 
ish fingers by the imbecility of Spanish governors. The whole 
vast Province of Guayra now belongs to Brazil, and her possession 
of it may be traced to this refusal of Cespedez to tender any assist- 
ance to the missions in their present critical, condition. It was 
false to imagine that these reductions would not prove loyal to 
Spain ; it was short-sighted, indeed, not to perceive that Jesuit 
influence, in this its legitimate missionary sphere, more powerful 
and more stable in itself than all the arms of the mother country 
could have made it, was the proper instrument to permanently 
secure the extension of the boundaries of New Spain. 

Thus indirectly seconded, and even at times openly counte- 
nanced by this faithful governor, fresh incentives were afforded 
the Mamelucos for continuing their cruel and unwarranted depre- 
dations upon peaceful missionaries and their still more unoffending 
flocks. An extensive but secret expedition was in fact fitted out 



478 CRUELTIES OF THE MAMELUCOS. 

with a view to complete the extinction of the Guayra reductions. 
Before proceeding to extreme measures the Paulistas resorted, ac- 
cording Charlevoix, to a sacrilegious piece of trickery which met 
with some success. Clothing themselves in the humble habili- 
ments of the Jesuit, they dispersed, in various directions, to visit 
those places which had been already frequented by the fathers, 
distributed presents in more than necessary profusion, erected 
crosses, and with mock piety, aided by a perfect fluency in the 
Guarani language, explained the principal articles of the faith. 
Then came in due form a proposition to add another to the pres- 
ent happy and prosperous reductions, by establishing themselves 
into a settled and permanent body, to whom the blessings of per- 
fect peace should not be wanting. The delusion was success- 
ful, and vast numbers were entrapped. These wolves in sheep's 
clothing bound or murdered the victims as best suited their con- 
venience, summarily disposing of those that proved an encum- 
brance, and driving the rest to the market.* 

But this drama proved too slow a mode of procedure for the 
Mamelucos, who soon doffed their gowns, and once more the steel- 
clad pestilence swept the country. They made a sudden and un- 
expected appearance at the mission of St. Paul, their leader's en- 
tering the house of Father Suarez being the first announcement 
of their arrival. This ungracious surprise, the fierce aspect of the 
bandit chief, and his offensive weapons roused all the fears of the 
good Jesuit, who fell upon his knees and implored, with tears, that 
the few unoffending Christians under his guardianship might be 
spared. But finding his supplication unheeded, he calmy bared 
his breast and said he was satisfied to lay down his life for his 
flock, but implored, in the name of Jesus, that it might be a pro- 
pitiation for all ; that his people might be allowed to disperse in 
peace. Saurez's resignation disarmed the Paulista, and saved his 
own life, but the natives shared their usual miserable fate. It was 
to them a choice between slavery or death. Some yielded to the 
former, others preferred the latter, and a few only escaped to the 
neighboring missions to tell their tale of despair. The marauders 
passed to other settlements, and marked their steps with blood 
and desolation. Emboldened by a reiterated refusal, on the part 
of the Governors of Asuncion, to afford any assistance to the mis- 
sions, they had little regard for any one or any thing ; their object 
was to drive the Jesuits out of Guayra, and they had few scruples 

* Charlevoix; Dobrizhoffer, vol. i., p. 1G0. 



DESTRUCTION OE THE MISSIONS. 479 

as to the means employed. St. Xavier and most of the reductions 
were razed to the ground ; houses were ransacked, churches pil- 
laged, altars polluted with innocent blood, and the whole given to 
general conflagration when its treasures had enriched and over- 
laden the successful enemy. Loreto and St. Ignatius, the first and 
last of the Gruayra missions, now stood alone in the enjoyment or 
the misery of a momentary existence. Here a consultation was 
held among the surviving fathers and natives, who had retreated 
to this their last place of defense. ' Some proposed a united and 
desperate attack upon the Mamelucos, trusting for victory to the 
superiority of their numbers. Others, whether more judiciously 
or not it would be difficult at this distance of time to say, advised 
an immediate retreat from the dangers that surrounded them, sug- 
gesting that there were brilliant hopes in other lands, and nothing 
cheering in their present condition. This latter course was ap- 
proved. Over twelve thousand people, men, women, and chil- 
dren, were hastily assembled together, bearing with them whatever 
portable property they had secured from the general wreck, and 
provisioned as time and circumstances would permit. Organizing 
themselves with that order to which they had been trained, and 
entreated by the Provincial, who was in the country throughout 
this contest, to obey their pastors, this motley army was marched 
to the Parana. Meantime the Paulistas were in pursuit, for scarce- 
ly had Loreto been abandoned when they entered the now de- 
serted town. That mission and St. Ignatius were soon a heap of 
ruins. 

What fortunate traveler will be the first to find his way into 
this old Province of Gruayra, and, descending in his canoe the al- 
most fabled river of Paranapane, gaze upon those interesting ruins 
which tell of a civilization due to the sacrifices and Christian de- 
votion of Jesuit missionaries ? Or perhaps time may have effaced 
every lingering vestige. It is sad that the servants of God should 
have met with such rewards, and a foul blot to Spain and Por- 
tugal to have permitted the inhuman depredations here practiced. 
An industrious and peaceful population was in a moment of time 
swept from the land. It has been estimated by several good au- 
thorities that no less than sixty thousand Indians were sold in the 
public square of Eio Janeiro between the years 1628 and 1630, 
the period of this succession of invasions ; and it was not the sav- 
age Indian that suffered thus, but men who had received the light 
of the Gospel and come within the pale of Christianity. 



480 SUFFERINGS OF THE FUGITIVES. 

The retreating army reached the Parana in safety, startled now 
and then by a false report of pursuit. A number of balsas or 
rafts were there constructed to descend the river ; they reached 
the Salto Grande, but here they were called upon to endure re- 
newed hardships. These rapids extend for many miles down the 
river, and the passage by land to their base is both difficult and 
dangerous. As an experiment to test the force of the fall, some 
of their boats were given to the current, and dashed to atoms in 
descending. Then old and young, mothers and children, fatigued 
by eight days' marching, slowly commenced the painful journey 
by land. A scarcity of provisions next added to their trials ; 
they subsisted as they could upon roots and upon whatever wild 
fruits could be found in the surrounding country. Many deaths 
occurred ; and, to avoid the horrors of a general starvation, they 
were, for a short time, divided into four sections, and directed 
to take different courses. A number, unable to proceed, were 
left in the country on either side of the falls, where they remained 
for upward of four months. Finally, Father Montoya assembled 
these scattering remnants of a once numerous population, and 
formed them into two missions near a little river called Jubabur- 
rus, flowing into the Parana on its left bank. These new mis- 
sions were called Loreto and St. Ignatius.* 

The unholy work was thus consummated. Though deplored 
by many, it found favor among the usual enemies of the Jesuit 
missionaries ; their exultation, however, was but short-lived. The 
important fact at last revealed itself to their blinded and preju- 
diced minds that they had been false to themselves; for the 
Mamelucos, after every possible pillage and depredation had been 
committed in Guayra, assembled their forces, marched successive- 
ly upon the Spanish towns of Villa Pica and Ciudad Peal, and 
destroyed them both. To this startling news was soon added 
that of the expected advance of the Portuguese upon Asuncion. 
Much to the relief of that city, these dismal expectations were not 
fulfilled, for other and more attractive inducements had given a 
different course to their aims for the enslavement of the Indian. 

The death of Gonzalez had by no means thwarted the indomit- 
able purposes of the fathers. The country of the Uruguay, though 
settled by warlike tribes, was found to be advantageous in many 
respects for the establishment of missions. The places of those 
who fell martyrs to their devotion were filled by others equally 

* Charlevoix, vol. i., p. 350. 



FURTHER OUTRAGES. 481 

enthusiastic. Father Kanconnier was the soul of this new attempt, 
and, under his direction, in one year four reductions* sprang up 
as from some enchanter's wand. About the same time, in 1633, 
as if to ruin every good project, the bickerings between laymen 
and Jesuits were again renewed. The Bishop of Asuncion, con- 
sidering the reductions as coming within his diocese, complacently 
convinced himself that Franciscans, or rather ecclesiastics, would 
better supply the places of the present Jesuit beneficiaries, and he 
undertook to make known his impressions on this point some- 
wnat energetically. The Governor of Buenos Ayres hazarded 
next in turn to entertain the design of establishing a Spanish city 
in the midst of the Uruguay reductions, but was speedily request- 
ed by Philip IY. of Spain to banish all such thoughts from his 
mind. 

In revenge for such unexpected opposition to their schemes 
against the Jesuits, governors and bishops declined assisting the 
missions in their continuous defense against the Paulistas and un- 
friendly Indians. From the Province of Ghiayra the attention of 
both these latter had been turned to the Uruguay. The port of 
San Pedro was one of the slave-markets of the Paulistas, and the 
missions were so conveniently approachable from this point that 
it required but short consultation to decide upon their annihila- 
tion. 

Father Eomero had received early intelligence of the expected 
attack upon the missions, and being stationed at Jesus Maria, the 
most easterly, made every possible preparation for defense. The 
hounds were soon upon him, and though his people gallantly 
stood at bay for a while, they were eventually forced to capitu- 
late. The church and houses were burnt, many Indians butch- 
ered, and the rest taken prisoners. A general abandonment of all 
the neighboring towns took place in consequence, for to resist the 
Mamelucos was always looked upon as little short of madness ; 
yet they smarted not a little under this new triumph. The mis- 
sionaries with their Indians retreated in safety, and even burnt 
some of their reductions in so doing, to prevent them from falling 
into the hands of the enemy. The Provincial had in the mean 
time been entreating for aid at Asuncion, but without success. 
Buenos Ayres and Corrientes equally declined. Abandoned to 
their own unaided efforts, the fathers,- marshaling with all speed 
whatever force they could bring together, obliged the Mamelucos 

* St. Joseph, The Angels, St, Peter, and St. Paul. 
31 



482 EXPULSION OF THE JESUITS. 

to retreat with, their present rich, booty. Spain never regained 
this lost territory, as she never regained that of the Province of 
Gruayra. They are both embraced within the Empire of Brazil, 
both undoubtedly rich and fertile tracts of country, coursed by 
broad and navigable streams, but uncultivated, without popula- 
tion, and very little known. 

The Paulistas, however, did not altogether retire from the 
country ; a few sudden attacks and some considerable skirmish- 
ing still warned the people that there was cause for alarm. In 
the early part of 1638 the reductions of St. Charles and the 
Apostles were abandoned. A slight success at first favored the 
Indians in the field; the Mamelucos were for a moment check- 
ed in their march, but, profiting by the indecision of the natives 
— surprised at their own good fortune — they made a vigorous 
attack that placed the whole country at their discretion. A gen- 
eral evacuation of all the missions* took place ; twelve thousand 
Indians,! exclusive of women and children, crossed the Uruguay, 
settled in the country between that river and the Parana, and 
were afterward numbered among the thirty Parana missions. 

Thus after a contest of several years and the destruction of 
twenty-one reductions, the Jesuit missionaries were gradually 
forced and driven into the territory now called Missiones, hem- 
med in on every side by Spanish, Portuguese, and Indians, and 
pursued by the enmity of their own countrymen as by the arms 
of the Paulistas. They had been engaged in a fearful and bloody 
strife for the Church as well as for Spain, and yet found no relief 
beyond the limits of their own reductions. A hundred thousand 
Christian natives had been either butchered or enslaved, while 
the governors of provinces and bishops of dioceses looked calmly 
on, the latter threatening all the while, in the face of the king's 
edict, to purge the land of Jesuits, the former proposing to lend 
thereto the more substantial means at their command. Brothers 
of the order had nobly perished at the hands of savages they 
sought to convert, but outside sympathy was yet withheld. We 
know that all their interests were at variance with those of the 
Spaniard, and therefore the fathers keenly felt the want of more 
faithful allies and more trustworthy friends. Thwarted in their 
labors, and unnoticed in their earnest appeals for aid to the high- 

* St. Joseph, the Angels, St. Peter, St. Paul, St. Christopher, Jesus Maria, St. 
Anne, St. Joachim, St. Theresa, St. Charles, the Apostles, and St. Nicholas, 
f Charlevoix, book i., p. 382. 



APPEAL TO THE KING. 433 

est authorities on this side of the waters, abandoned to their own 
resources, and left to carve out their own destiny, they had re- 
course to the final tribunal — the Spanish monarch and the Pope. 
For although fortune once more began to smile upon the reduc- 
tions they had so industriously established out of the remnants 
of the former missions, yet their late reverses were remembered 
with grief and wounded spirits. Their present proximity to the 
Spanish towns was a check upon all their movements and meas- 
ures ; and to secure the prosperity, wealth, power, and independ- 
ence they sought to attain, other privileges and immunities must 
be first secured. The Spaniards had declined to assist them; 
they would no longer succumb to this unnatural opposition. They 
would now have arms of their own, and would fight their own 
battles. 

Fathers De Montoya — one of the most learned men of his day 
— and Tano sailed for Europe, the former accredited to the court 
of Spain, the latter to the Pope. Both were eminently successful 
in their missions. De Montoya forcibly represented the necessi- 
ties of the missionaries : they were laboring, he said, only for the 
conversion of the Indians, for the success, prosperity, and safety 
of their reductions ; and the king, favorably disposed to his In- 
dian vassals, under the good and loyal guidance of the fathers, 
granted his every request. The law of 1611, forbidding the Span- 
ish settlers to enslave the natives unless captured in a just war, 
had, like many others, been little heeded. 

Often had kings essayed to check the ill 

By edicts not so well enforced as meant ; 
A present power was wanting to fulfill 

Eemote authority's sincere intent. 

De Montoya asked that it should be strictly carried into execu- 
tion ; he also succeeded in obtaining from the king an edict which 
not only commanded the Mamelucos to set at liberty those who 
had been captured by them, but which was to find guilty of high 
treason any who might attempt to renew this unlawful traffic. 
This ordinance, though of a more humane character than that of 
his grandfather, Philip II., when he condemned to death the whole 
population of the Netherlands, rivaled it in its utter impractica- 
bility. De Montoya did not blind himself to the fact that little 
confidence could be placed in these parchment scrolls unless ac- 
companied by a sword of justice, the unfailing instrument which 
could alone sever the Gordian knots of future dissensions. 



484 APPEAL TO THE POPE. 

An all-important object was to obtain a grant which should al- 
low the reduction Indians to have fire-arms. This was the main 
proposition made by the Jesuit envoy. It was objected that the 
natives once finding themselves in the possession of such power, 
would use it to endanger the stability of Spanish authority. 
These fears were dissipated by the agreement that they should 
not be permanently supplied with arms except in cases of urgent 
necessity, and by the assurance furthermore that the fathers would 
be responsible for their conduct. De Montoya overcame all ob- 
stacles ; he received a grant, with the seal of Spain upon it, which 
established the perfect independence and future power of the mis- 
sions. 

Tano had equal reason to be elated with his success. He was 
received at Eome with every kindness and regard. His story of 
the hardships, reverses, and sacrifices of the Jesuit brothers in the 
wilds of South America, of the cruelties and butcheries of the 
Mamelucos, and of the inimical disposition toward them even 
of the Spanish settlers themselves, was full of thrilling interest 
and the tenderest appeal. The sympathies of the Church were 
with him. Pope Urban VIII. was much affected at his recital of 
all that had transpired in the brief history of the missions, and 
the anathemas of the Holy See went out against the actors and 
abettors in the heinous offenses committed against Loyola's de- 
voted sons. The Pope accorded all that could in any way tend 
to the tranquillity and security of the new missions, and, says 
Charlevoix, "would have made him (Tano) completely happy, 
could that missionary answer for the thunders of the Vatican 
being sufficient to put an end to all the evils of which he had 
given his Holiness an account."* But among the Mamelucos the 
thunders of the Vatican, like the thunders of the heavens, rolled 
on with an imposing noise and then died out, harming none. 

Father Tano, on returning to Madrid from Eome, found a num- 
ber of missionaries assembled at the instance of De Montoya, and 
prepared to accompany him to the western continent. He sailed 
shortly, but adverse winds forced him into Rio Janeiro. Here, mak- 
ing known the edicts of the Spanish monarch and the papal briefs, 
a shout of indignation, and even violent demonstrations, rose up 
against him and his attendants. Spiritual condemnations bore 
lightly upon the shoulders of the Mamelucos, but they were not 
easily composed with regard to a law which so materially affected 

* Vol. i., p. 391. 



THE GUAKANI AEMED. 435 

their temporal goods ; they lived by the slave-traffic, and it would 
take a powerful force to bring them to renounce it, to compel them, 
at that late day, to give up the fruit of their bloody toils in Guayra 
and Tape. Their exasperation was not slight nor to be disregard- 
ed ; several tumultuous outbreaks convinced Father Tano that his 
sacerdotal robes might not possibly prove a sufficient protection 
to his person. At the same time, the revolution which had taken 
place in Portugal, and which placed the Duke of Braganza on the 
throne, warned him against a longer stay in his present perilous 
position. He reached Buenos Ayres in safety in November of 
1640. Father Montoya passed the rest of his days in Peru and 
Tucuman, performing many important and useful duties in the 
service of his order, and especially engaged in furnishing arms, for 
the grant of which the missions owed him every indebtedness. 

The Mamelucos were still gathering strength. They probably 
never had a greater encouragement for renewing their inhuman 
conquests than that offered by the late Portuguese revolution. A 
declared hostility to Spain, arising from that event, only confirmed 
them in a bold determination to reach the Paraguay. Considering 
the countless hordes that composed the Ghiarani family, it is a mat- 
ter of astonishment that this their mortal enemy ever should have 
advanced with impunity so far as he had ; but gentleness, meek- 
ness, and unwarlike habits were the characteristics of their nature.* 
Yet a docile spirit may be spurred to despair. Pillaged churches 
and burning houses would stir even stagnant blood. Mothers, 
fathers, brothers, sisters, wives, and children mercilessly butchered, 
or bound and carried off to be sold in the market of some distant 
city, leaves its impress upon the Indian mind. To be pursued 
from place to place, hunted from wood to wood, with the prospect 
of eventual extermination, would make the dullest nature revolt. 
The Indian felt at last that he had the sinews wherewith to fight ; 
fight he must, or there was an end to him ; but his light lance and 
erring sling might even at this time have proved of no avail but 
for the gunpowder about to greet the Paulistas. 

Due notice had been received of the expedition that was ad- 

* M. Cretineau Joly is in error when he asserts (Histoire de la Compagnie de 
Jesus, vol. iii., p. 312): "Les Jesuites avaient trouve les Guaranis cruels, vin- 
dictifs, enclins a tous les exces, sauvages par nature et avec volupte." Next to the 
Peruvians they were probably the most civilized people in South America, and their 
future amalgamation with the white race, while other tribes held their own in the 
deserts of the Gran Chaco, shows conclusively that they were above the ordinary 
level of the savage. 



486 DEFEAT OF THE MAMELUCOS. 

vancing against the reductions. The fathers made every effort to 
give their visitors a warm reception, and raised an army of four 
thousand men, mostly armed with bows and slings, for three hund- 
red muskets were all that could possibly be obtained at the time ; 
these were distributed among the chiefs, and they did effectual serv- 
ice in the coming engagement. The Paulistas, numbering four 
hundred, and joined by as many Tupis Indians, ascended the Aca- 
ray Eiver in a fleet of boats. Abiaru, chief of the native army, ad- 
vanced to meet them, and, stationing himself at the head of a small 
arm of the river, awaited their approach. 

After a short and useless interview with the Paulista chief, he 
retired to draw up his force; soon the two boat fleets were seen 
steadily advancing to the shock. The banks were lined with men, 
women, and children, watching with intense anxiety this measur- 
ing of strength, and "invoking with a loud voice the Apostle 
of the Indies." The discharge of a small cannon, as unexpected 
as a stroke of lightning to the Paulistas, sunk three of the enemy's 
pirogues, and threw the rest into no little confusion. The three 
hundred muskets were also used with such deadly effect that the 
invaders pulled for the shore, determined to try their strength on 
terra firma. Here again they were vigorously met ; a united at- 
tack of the whole Guarani force for once broke their line and com- 
pletely dispersed them. Hotly pursued, they skirmished for a 
while, but finally secreted themselves in the thickets or sought 
shelter in the neighboring forests. Collecting the next day their 
scattered and much-diminished forces, and still despising the 
clouds of Indians that now began exultingly to hover around, they 
thought yet to drive them from the field, or at least gain time to 
be re-enforced. A rapid and murderous charge made by the Gua- 
rani exploded all these hopes. But few of the invaders escaped.* 

For the first time the Mamelucos were worsted in their long-con- 
tinued persecutions of the Indians. They had at last been checked 
and beaten in open fight, forced back into their own territory, and 
cut off almost to a man. It was a severe and withering blow, one 
from which they were long in recovering. The cobweb defense 
behind which the missions had heretofore fought was replaced by 
a sterner front, and the scales of fortune were completely turned. 
Hope and assurance relieved their old and habitual fears of the 
Paulistas. Twenty-nine reductions, banded together and supplied 
with arms, began to feel their power. The battle of Acaray made 

* Charlevoix, vol. i., p. 407-8. 



BISHOP CARDENAS. 487 

a hundred thousand natives, all weak and trembling until now, 
conscious of their strength. They now sprang, like the god, into 
the panoply of war and might. Yet scarce had the dreaded foe 
from without been vanquished when a domestic broil ensued — 
the old clashing between Jesuits and laymen is renewed. The 
Bishop of Asuncion wages war against them. 

Don Bernardin de Cardenas is a prominent character in the 
history of Spanish America. He was a native of La Plata (or 
Chiquisaca), early distinguished himself as a preacher and a mis- 
sionary, and when still young was elevated to the bishopric of 
Asuncion. Here his excitable disposition and executive qualities 
developed themselves. Looking upon himself as a head supreme 
to the government of church and province, utterly regardless of 
the separate and distinct powers vested in other officials associated 
with him, all affairs brought to the consideration of the city au- 
thorities underwent the ordeal of his consent or dissent. His was 
a temporal as well as a spiritual administration — a combination 
not unexampled, but inconsistent in this case, and injurious under 
any circumstances. Those hazardous enough to thwart this am- 
bitious prelate's designs learned the violence of his displeasure. 
The bishop held within his grasp a mighty power — excommuni- 
cation — one which he wielded mercilessly. From the governor 
down, all underwent this mark of his resentment, not once, but 
again and again. Day after day lengthened lists of excommuni- 
cated individuals were framed, whole columns of condemned were 
placarded about the town. No penitence was too severe to re- 
move the mark of sin, though its blasting effect had been some- 
what tempered here by its too frequent and continuous occurrence. 
The anathematized grew bold in their numbers ; a rebellious 
spirit showed itself; a din of tumult and disorder reached the 
bishop's ears, and in the midst of it he wisely retired to Yaguaron, 
a considerable Indian village about thirty miles distant. His last 
instructions were that there should be no intercourse with the ex- 
communicated, and that divine service should be performed in no 
church in presence of the governor, Don Grregorio de Hinistrosa. 
Hinistrosa's devout head bore heavily and sadly the excommuni- 
cation that rested upon him ; he calmed his anger and softened 
his jealousies that he might undergo the necessary penalties for its 
removal. For this purpose he found his way to Yaguaron, as an 
humble pilgrim come to atone for his sins. There was not a door 
but was closed against him, not a hand raised in his behalf. He 



488 THE BISHOP AND THE GOVERNOR. 

sought the presence of the haughty bishop, who received him 
with a demeanor and in a manner worthy of Gregory VII. Hin- 
istrosa fell at his feet and asked forgiveness ; it was purchased by 
consenting to pay a heavy fine. 

Cardenas, in this retreat at Yaguaron, while forcing the peni- 
tent governor and people of Asuncion to humble themselves be- 
fore him, was also engaged in concocting and planning schemes 
by which he was to bring about the overthrow of the Jesuits. 
Already had he forbidden many of the fathers to preach, and 
closed their schools in Asuncion. He had probably, among many 
other reasons, felt aggrieved because he lacked the power to exact 
from them certain tithes ; for, through Jesuit influence at Madrid, 
their payment of royal tribute was postponed until 1549. The 
missions were increasing in wealth and power, independent of 
outside control, and contributing nothing as yet either to the 
king's coffers or to the Church. These were extreme privileges 
which excited this bishop's wrath. Upon one occasion he thought 
to drive them by force from their college in Asuncion, but desist- 
ed on learning that his purpose was anticipated. Meantime an- 
swers began to pour into the country to the numerous communi- 
cations which at the outset of these difficulties had been forward- 
ed to the viceroy and the Audience of Charcas. Cardenas was 
severely censured. The governor, too, was greatly blamed for 
allowing himself, the representative of his Majesty, to be outwit- 
ted and overruled by a prelate whose business it was to attend to 
his own spiritual affairs. Don Gregorio's confidence and courage 
were restored; his devotion was temporarily laid aside that he 
might strike an effectual blow to regain his legitimate authority. 

Leaving Asuncion, attended by thirty men, he was met not far 
from the city by a body of Indians, whom he had been expect- 
ing. A night's march brought them to Yaguaron, and the bustle 
of their arrival soon awakened the peaceful town. Cardenas, 
startled at the disturbance, was hurriedly dressing when the gov- 
ernor entered his apartment. Attempting to retreat by a private 
door, he was quickly followed, until Don Gregorio found himself 
standing upon the steps leading to the high altar of the church. 
The excited people, soldiers and Indians, fast crowded in. Car- 
denas, from his place in the sanctuary, inquired of the governor 
the cause of his unexpected appearance. " To serve you, by or- 
der of the viceroy, with a sentence of banishment from this prov- 
ince, and a seizure of your goods, for having usurped the jurisdic- 



THE BISHOP'S INTRIGUES. 4*89 

tion which. I hold from our sovereign lord the king," was the reply. 
Cardenas answered, unmoved, " I promise to obey, and take this 
congregation to witness my promise." Then, giving way to his 
pent-up animosities, he violently denounced the governor and his 
associates, and served them in turn with a renewed excommuni- 
cation. He was forced to return to Asuncion, but there finding 
his power lost and his personal liberty restrained, he writes with 
exquisite disgust to the governor that he could not prevail upon 
himself to remain in a country inhabited almost entirely by an 
excommunicated people. Amid public displays and ringing of 
bells the humbled bishop took leave of the city and descended 
the river to Corrientes. 

The old spirit of authority and mania for anathematizing ac- 
companied him in this banishment. Bishop of Paraguay he still 
was and would be, but his thunders now fell comparatively harm- 
less upon his offending children. The Jesuits haunted him ; he 
bore them earnestly and perseveringly in mind, nursing the while 
a fixed resolve that at some period, sooner or later, the order 
should be driven from the country. He bitterly complains of 
them in all his letters, and his epistolary correspondence increases 
as his case grows desperate. To the Bishop of Tucuman he ap- 
peals in the strongest language, pleading his commiseration in a 
world of humble regard. The bishop's reply could not have 
healed many wounds or afforded much satisfaction : his sympa- 
thies were with the fathers, and he rejoiced that they had stemmed 
the current of Don Bernardin's wrath. He writes that his power 
does not consist " in splendore vestium sed morum, non ad iram 
sed ad omnimodam patientiam." The deposed but overbearing 
bishop had but little patience ; his temper was superabundant ; 
his prejudices and perseverance were unfailing, and, though re- 
pulsed in this quarter, he was more successful at La Plata and in 
his influence with the Audience of Charcas. From the latter he 
finally obtained permission to return to Asuncion under the plea 
of settling his much-deranged affairs. He was enthusiastically re- 
ceived by his friends in that city, for there was still a party in his 
favor, and the governor deemed it impolitic to interfere, although 
he could not have but foreseen that his welcomed guest might 
prove a dangerous enemy. Judging from his prolonged stay, the 
prelate's affairs must have been in a- most deplorable condition. 
He, however, declared his disinterestedness in all public measures : 
spiritual, not temporal, matters engaged his thoughts. During 



490 THE BISHOP AND THE JESUITS. 

this visit the governor died (1649). Who shall succeed him? 
Surely not the prelate, on a mere visit to the city, apparently lost 
in the mazes of his pecuniary embarrassments. Yet it was so. 
The people held a clamorous meeting to decide for themselves; 
for with them Cardenas was popular, and, under the shadow of 
an ancient edict of Charles Y. — a piece of parchment the bishop 
had been hunting for all his life — they declared this their right. 
Don Bernardin was proclaimed governor, bishop, captain-general 
— dictator, in a word. 

This power was wielded with crushing effect upon the Jes- 
uits ; he held them in his grip, and they would have felt the hold 
" through bars of brass and triple steel." The blow came at last. 
Says the worthy bishop, while preaching in the cathedral, " Be 
firmly persuaded that I have an order from the king to drive the 
Jesuits out of this city."* He may have persuaded himself to this 
effect, but certainly not the fathers. The only consideration with 
him now was as to what were the most expedient and summary 
means for ridding Asuncion of their presence. He issued an order 
compelling all good citizens of the city capable of carrying arms, 
under pain of excommunication, to join the standard of Yillejo 
Yillasanti, lieutenant to the king, and obey his instructions. On 
the 10th of March, 1649, this rabble marched to the college ; find- 
ing it closed they summoned its inmates to open the gates, but 
received no answer. Gates and doors were easily forced open and 
the chapel abruptly entered. Here the lieutenant made known 
the object of his mission. The rector stoutly replied that the col- 
lege of Asuncion had been erected by permission of Philip II., 
that they exercised their privileges by grant of the king, and that, 
of their own accord, they would neither abandon the one nor re- 
linquish the other. Yillasanti, being a man of action, not of words, 
retorted by a signal to his men, who made a disorderly attack upon 
every thing that came within their reach ; the fathers were driven 
out of the college, the sick dragged from their beds ; all were hur- 
ried to the boats that awaited them on the river, and, cast adrift 
with few provisions, and many without oars, were exposed to the 
mercy of the current. 

The college was ransacked and plundered throughout, the plate 
on the high altar stolen, and every thing of value pillaged from the 
chapel. Two statues, representing St. Ignatius and St. Xavier, the 
great missionary of Japan, after going through a sufficiently disfig- 

* Charlevoix, vol. ii., p. 30. 



DOWNFALL OF THE BISHOP. 491 

uring process, were thus converted into St. Paul and St. Peter, re- 
maining about as resemblant, perhaps, as the antique busts of the 
Eoman emperors resemble their great originals. A picture of the 
Savior, clothed in the habit of a Jesuit, a fancy which the writers 
of the order excuse or account for by saying that he appeared so 
" to the famous Donna Maria de Escobar, whose memory is still 
held in veneration all over Spain" (Charlevoix), was severed at 
the neck so as to preserve the head, and the rest burned. Finally, 
after making a wreck of the interior of the building, an attempt 
was made to pull down the wooden steeple, but they succeeded 
no farther than in drawing it from its perpendicular position. 

This triumph was very short-lived. Don Bernardin must an- 
swer for these high-handed measures, a consequence of which he 
was perfectly aware, but no one knew better than himself how 
to act under such circumstances. He was prompt in making his 
own representations to the Audience of Charcas ; he wrote volu- 
minously to that body, and so far fortified himself as to send a 
special envoy to Madrid ; he had a voice in every assembly or de- 
liberation which was to pass censure or approval upon his conduct ; 
but in this instance all his endeavors were futile. He was baffled 
in every manoeuvre ; he failed in every attempt, and was sum- 
moned to Peru ; while Don Sebastian de Leon was appointed to 
see that the summons was obeyed. That functionary approached 
Asuncion, followed by several thousand reduction Indians. Hear- 
ing of this expected force sent against him, Don Bernardin was 
rash enough to oppose it ; the two forces met, but the bishop lost 
the day. It remained for him to yield, with the best possible grace, 
at a time when he thought, 

' ' Good, easy man, full surely 
His greatness was a ripening." 

But, like the cardinal, he had ventured in a sea of glory far be- 
yond his depth. In March, 1651, he returned to La Plata, enter- 
ing his native city in triumph. There, in retirement, he passed 
the rest of his days, after a restless and scheming career, excused 
by no wholesome purposes and attended with little ultimate suc- 
cess. 

The first step of the party now in. power was to recall the Jes- 
uits. The edicts fulminated against them by Don Bernardin were 
publicly burnt ; the censures passed -upon them were removed ; 
their much-deranged temporal affairs were restored to a more 
healthy condition ; the college, almost a ruin, underwent the nee- 



492 TRIUMPH OF THE JESUITS. 

essar y repairs ; the statues, pictures, vases, candelabras, and col- 
umns that had been carried off were restored ; all the pillages and 
spoliations they had suffered were handsomely remunerated. 

As one enemy disappeared another rose up against the perse- 
cuted Jesuits. At this time Spain and Portugal were still at war. 
King John, desperately fighting for a nation's independence and 
a throne, was not scrupulous as to the means to be employed, 
and so gave his nod of assent to the Mamelucos in a fresh attempt 
they were about to make to reduce the missions. At the latter 
part of 1651, this expedition, composed of four separate divisions, 
was put in motion. The Spanish authorities, now conscious that it 
was their best and only policy to oppose these bandits, prepared 
to resist them, and sent word to the reductions to assist them with 
whatever force they could collect. Happily the country was in a 
state of internal quiet, and the authority of the Jesuits such as to 
enable them to act promptly and decisively. Before any of the 
government forces from Asuncion appeared in sight of the enemy 
the fathers had assembled their neophytes, furnished them with 
fire-arms, advanced against the Paulistas, and repulsed them in 
every direction ; then, sharply wheeling upon the Gruaycurus, who 
had taken advantage of the occasion and thought to join in the 
plunder, they annihilated them at a blow. 

This was neither the first nor the last occasion upon which 
these Guarani Indians rendered eminent services to the govern- 
ment. They drew even from the gold-thirsty, fortune-seeking 
Spaniards a tardy acknowledgment of their good and loyal con- 
duct, and an acquiescence in whatever grants and privileges the 
king may have been pleased to grant them. Indeed their services 
were not to be despised, for they formed a strong defense along 
the boundary of Spanish America most open to attack. Under 
the strict discipline of the fathers many had conceived a fondness 
for and become adepts in the art of war ; in all their engagements 
with the Paulistas since the return of the deputies they had been 
successful. The last repulse settled the question of superiority, 
and associated with the reductions quite a military prestige. At 
later periods these natives distinguished themselves not a little as 
allies of the Spanish. More than once the Portuguese, before 
Buenos Ayres, had reason to admire their courage and the perfect 
discipline under which they acted ; more tnan once they had been 
worsted by them, and learned to dread them as much as they ever 
feared the Spanish. At Montevideo, also, in the disputes about 



THE REDUCTION INDIANS. 493 

Nova Colonia and in many other instances, the reduction In- 
dians rendered effectual assistance. In times of peace they never 
declined aid in the construction of public works. Upon the ca- 
thedral of Buenos Ayres, the citadel, and fortifications of the port 
they were diligently and perseveringly engaged ; in other cities 
and towns they likewise assisted in the erection of churches and 
public buildings. Many forts and important military posts sprang 
up from their labors, under the skillful direction of the mission- 
aries, and many flourishing towns were built by them alone. Oft- 
en had they defended these from the attacks of unfriendly In- 
dians, or from the more alarming advances of an outside enemy. 
Yet how small and uncharitable was the return they met with. 



CHAPTER XXYIII. 



Fathers placed in charge of the Missions : their Duties and Power. — Opinions and 
Researches of Azara. — Foundation of St. Joachim and of Belen. — Means and 
Measures adopted. — Jesuit Reduction. — College. — Dispensary, Gardens. — The 
Arsenal and Soldiery. — Sham-fights. — The Church: its Splendor. — Music. — 
Attendance at Church Service. — Fetes and Processions. — Clothing. — Schools. — 
Police System. — Daily Life. — Labor in the Fields. — Christian Republic. — Social 
Equality. — Mercantile Restrictions. — God's Inheritance. 

So far this brief review of incidents does not embrace what, 
probably, with the generality of readers, most excites an interest 
in the history of the Jesuit missions of South America. The dis- 
putes of governors and bishops, the dissensions of religious and 
laymen, the expulsion, at different times, of the order, the contin- 
uous contest with the Paulistas, yield to a different phase of the 
subject. A system is firmly established so marked, so peculiar 
in itself, and yet rising to all appearances from so natural an or- 
der of things as to claim at least some passing consideration. 

What was a Jesuit reduction? In what relation did the mis- 
sionary stand toward his people, and they to one another ? What 
was their political and social organization? Following these es- 
tablishments in their advance to civilization and power, we pause 
to note the means and causes of the ascendency which they at- 
tained. Here we meet with contradictions not easily reconciled. 
The only histories of the South American missions are by the 
Jesuits employed in them, or by Spaniards — men of their own 
faith, but who seem ever to have regarded the labors of the fa- 



494 THE JESUIT SYSTEM. 

thers with distrust and enmity. Both parties present us with a 
picture of life, of a people, of a polity unexampled in history ; 
and if simplicity of government conduces to the happiness of the 
human family, we have here a wonderful example of it. 

It is of primary importance that we should impress upon our- 
selves the fact that this success was mainly due to the peculiar com- 
position of the Jesuit missionary, the training which so fitted and 
girded him for the life here portrayed ; but above all to that unity 
of spirit and action visible in the whole order, how diverse so- 
ever its pursuits or varied its acquirements. Priests, statesmen, 
astronomers, captains, artisans, every profession, every art and 
trade, are found represented among its members. It possessed 
every natural element for settling and civilizing the wildest and 
most distant countries. " The vast shore washed by the farthest 
sea" was accessible to the Jesuit. Never have men, moreover, 
discharged a duty or attained an end with more unflinching forti- 
tude, or evinced a more lofty disregard of danger. It was not of 
uncommon occurrence that the sermon should serve the purposes 
of the general's proclamation, or the missionary lead from the 
sanctuary to the battle, where in the hottest of the fight one father 
might be seen binding up the hurts of the wounded, and another 
administering the last sacrament to the dying. In time of peace 
they planned towns, built churches, drew up municipal regula- 
tions, instructed in the schools, drilled the soldiers — for every 
able-bodied native was a soldier — and judged in all matters; 
though there were nominal courts and tribunals presided over by 
robed natives. Their authority was absolute, disputed by none, 
unless occasionally by some governor or bishop of Asuncion or 
Buenos Ayres. The master's power over the slave could not be 
more unquestioned than that of the father in charge of a mission. 

To each reduction, in proportion to its population, were attach- 
ed two or three priests. In one, the chief, was vested all spiritual 
control; to the other was intrusted a necessary, watchful, and dil- 
igent superintendence of its temporal concerns. At the head of 
all the Paraguay missions — each of which was, according to Ulloa, 
" like a family governed by a wise and affectionate parent"* — was 
a superior, who resided at Candelaria,f and had the general super- 

* A Voyage to South America, by Don Antonio de Ulloa : translated by John 
Adams, Esq. London, 1806, vol. ii., p. 182. 

f Founded 1627. Latitude 27° 26' 46", longitude 58° T 34" west of Paris. 
Tableau des Peuplades formees par les Jesuites. Azara, vol. ii., p. 260. 



THE JESUITS AND THE INDIANS. 495 

vision of the Christian republic. He also exercised the power of 
appointing the assistant Jesuits, under whom there were many 
subordinate offices rilled by the natives. 

There are minor cogs and wheels to this machinery, and the 
unison of all its parts is due to causes, circumstances, and appli- 
ances worthy of note. Its perfect adaptation to the native popu- 
lation must have arisen from wise and artful measures — a very 
possible and very Jesuitic combination. So firm a footing in so 
vast a country is not to be traced to weak brains or distrustful in- 
struments. Many and different means tended to the accomplish- 
ment of the one great work. Azara discusses the subject with 
animosity against the fathers, much of which, though evidently 
unjust and proceeding from a fixed prejudice, yet does not per- 
mit us to totally disregard his opinions and observations. He is 
slow to make any acknowledgment in favor of the missionaries ; 
he mercilessly pursues and investigates all their labors, how de- 
serving soever they may be apparently, and would attribute the 
foundation of the reductions more to the fears inspired by the 
Portuguese of St. Paul than to any persuasive powers of the fa- 
thers themselves, or any merit in their system. 

True it is, the establishment of the Paraguay missions took place 
partly at times when the Paulistas were devastating the country, 
and we can readily infer that, exposed to this pursuit, the Indians 
were rejoiced to find the shelter which the fathers afforded them. 
This undoubtedly increased to an extent the population of the 
reductions, but does not account for that strange influence which 
Jesuit teachings seemed to bear with them upon the Indian's un- 
tutored mind. Fear of the Mamulucos did not lay the founda- 
tions of the early missions of Guayra, nor is any such agency to 
be found in the rise of those of Chiquitos and Moxos. At the 
same time there can be little doubt that numbers of the Gruarani 
race, persecuted on the one side by the Spanish and on the other 
by the less clement Paulistas, clung to the Jesuits as an all-pro- 
tecting safeguard and refuge. They might have retreated for a 
time to the inmost depths of their forests, and there sought the 
peace which had been so ruthlessly disturbed ; but even those 
wilds could not have afforded them the security they eventually 
enjoyed in open day under the fathers. The Jesuits from the 
first became their champions ; and we must believe that their pos- 
session of and continuance in this power was due as much to the 
self-sacrificing spirit of the order as to intrigue or accidental cir- 



496 MEASURES OE THE JESUITS. 

cumstances, though, doubtless there were arts and policies best 
known to the fathers that served the one end We may or we 
may not see dimly into these, for their writers have been accused 
of being suspiciously silent as to the means employed in the es- 
tablishment of these reductions ; but there may have been noth- 
ing to disclose, there may be nothing now to drag out into the 
light. 

The missions rise throughout the country, increasing in wealth 
and population and possessed of no ordinary civilization ; yet it 
is difficult to follow them through all the phases of this progress. 
We know that the efforts of the founders were crowned with suc- 
cess, but the inner work of the fabric has been dimmed by time, 
if not lost ; or is presented to us only through the exaggerations 
or prejudices of Jesuits or Spaniards. The father finds his way 
to some distant unknown tribe, unattended and unarmed. He 
throws himself completely on their mercy ; but his mission is one 
of peace ; he is a chosen successor of the great apostle, and soon 
inspires a mysterious reverence for his person. There is some- 
thing fearless and imposing in his speech that does not fall harsh- 
ly upon the Indian's ear. Christian life and religion he depicts 
with a marvelous eloquence that touches the heart of the savage. 
Nor does he forget that it is well to be wary ; he is mindful of 
temporal advantages, and avails himself of a knowledge of savage 
instincts. His promises are profuse ; he is willing to accord much, 
and only asks in return obedience to the cross. So were the old 
Loreto and the new Loreto founded ; San Ignatius, San Xavier, 
and St. Thomas sprung into existence, and were soon numbered 
among thirty prosperous reductions. They are populous, power- 
ful, and civilized. Their future history is well defined ; the early 
stages only are obscure. 

We have referred to Azara, whose information of these mis- 
sions was obtained while in the country itself, and associating 
with men whose recollections of the Jesuit rule were still fresh 
in their memories. He relates as follows of the founding of St. 
Joachim : 

Wishing to establish a mission among this branch of the Grua- 
rani family, the fathers first sent them, by Indians of their own 
reductions, offerings of some trifling value, pleasing to Indian 
fancy. This preliminary treating was repeated several times be- 
fore taking more decisive steps. These gifts, they were told, 
came from a Jesuit who loved them much and was desirous of 



FOUNDING OF SAN JOACHIM. 497 

living among them ; that, if so permitted, the father would bestow 
upon them things of far greater price, that they might live with- 
out labor. He would bring them cattle, iron, and every useful 
article ; he would build them houses, give them clothing, attend 
to the sick, and extend to the whole people every care. Such 
conditions were tempting ; they flattered too much the natural 
indolence of the Guarani to be disregarded. Thus a way was 
opened to some apparently good and generous Jesuit, who, at- 
tended by a number of Christian natives, started on this expedi- 
tion, bearing presents, and driving before them cattle for the use 
of the expected converts. Arrived in the midst of his newly- 
adopted children, the plans for a town were laid, the fathers at 
the same time keeping a vigilant watch over the cattle. They 
soon disappeared, however, as the Indians thought of nothing but 
eating." Provisions must needs be abundant, for to satisfy the 
palate was indispensable in view of successfully administering a 
healthful spiritual food. He who was fed the best was generally 
the most speedily converted to the true faith, and made the best 
Christian — at least in the way of telling beads and in submitting 
to Jesuit authority. He who was neglected in this respect pre- 
ferred aboriginal independence, and subsistence obtained by his 
bow and arrows. Hence the flocks and fields required the same 
constant watchfulness as those of the Church. Says Dobrizhoffer, 
quaintly: "If, according to St. Paul, among other natives faith 
enters by the ear, with the savages of Paraguay it can only be 
thrust in by the mouth." 

St. Joachim grew and prospered ; numerous houses were built, 
and soon a church faced the great square. An abundance of corn 
and cotton followed a general and diligent cultivation of the land. 
The Indians were elated with the change beyond all expectation ; 
they were for the present in the enjoyment of an easy, indolent 
kind of life, as unlooked for as it was novel. But it was never 
understood that the treasury should be drained by too long a con- 
tinuation of this course. The necessary advances had already been 
made ; it was now time to halt, that the Indians might be im- 
pressed with the necessity of working for themselves. Azara again 
explains : " Assembling them one day the father appealed to their 
sense of right ; it was neither just nor proper that their friends and 
brothers, the Ghiarani, brought from other reductions, should con- 
tinue to labor for them ; they should begin to assist themselves ; 

* Azava, vol. ii., p. 228. 

32 



498 FOUNDING OF BELEN. 

there was much need of cultivation in the fields ; some simple 
trade could be easily acquired, and the women could learn to spin 
cotton." They were probably at the same time impressed with the 
fact that all these were most agreeable and Christian-like occupa- 
tions, such as were commanded by the Church. The converted 
Indians were instructed to make similar entreaties. Some re- 
turned to their wilds, many yielded, and from that time St. Jo- 
achim became one of the most important of the missions. 

These gentle measures, though comporting with the docile Gua- 
rani character, proved impotent in other quarters, where fiercer 
dispositions had to be encountered ; and hence led to more strin- 
gent measures for the success of the proposed reduction. The 
foundation of Belen,** in all but the preliminaries, is a different 
story from that of St. Joachim. The gifts were sent, and the Jes- 
uit, numerously attended, arrived at his destination among the 
Mbayas — a warlike race who discovered no charms in the mission 
"community" life. The father's eloquence neither moved their 
hearts, nor did his material offerings affect their senses. The chase, 
as a means of subsistence, was preferable to agricultural labor. 
The caciques, moreover, declined assigning to others the power 
they exercised over their respective districts — a power, it is well 
known, which the Jesuits were never willing to share. So the 
father's schemes must have been thwarted but for a well-timed 
stratagem, which seemed at once to remove all difficulties. There 
was every facility for carrying it into effect. Under the plea of 
concluding a treaty with the Chiquitos, among whom there were 
at this time numerous missions, the fierce chiefs opposed to the 
cause of the Church were enticed beyond the confines of their ter- 
ritories. The most cordial reception awaited them on the part of 
the reduction Indians. Numbers of friendly allies flocked to greet 
them ; bands of music were in continuous attendance, and every 
kind of native amusement or festivity was called into requisition, 
that the welcome might admit of no distrust. Thus the snares 
were well laid. The unsuspecting chiefs manifested unbounded 
gratification, while the secret plans of the Jesuits for securing their 
persons were being brought to maturity. Suddenly, in the night, 
and at the sound of a bell, their universal signal, the Mbaya ca- 
ciques were attacked, bound hand and foot, thrown into prison, 
and not released until the final expulsion of the order. But, 

* Founded in 1760. 



ECONOMY OF A EEDUCTION. 



499 



though the chief obstacles were thus removed, Belen never rose to 
the full dignity of a mission.* 

These are the two examples cited by Azara, and thus, according 
to him, were the Paraguay reductions established. It is not gen- 
erally understood, however, that coercion was ever employed in 
the great work of conversion ; at least we have no evidence of it, 
nor any declaration to that effect except from our previously -men- 
tioned author, who may have been too happily confident in the 
success of his researches ; or he may have confounded the in- 
human occurrences among the lay reductions with those of the 
fathers. If not governed by principle, the sagacity of the Jesuit 
discovered that, with the Indian, persuasion effected more than 
force ; the Spaniard never essayed the former and ever abused the 
latter. It was of necessity a duty and an object with the fathers 
to overcome prejudices, to dispel distrust, to soothe all latent fears 
by constant assurances of kindly feelings and by manifesting a pa- 
ternal watchfulness over all affairs that came under their direc- 
tion. In Christian charity they did not offer a stone for bread, 
nor a serpent for a fish, but opened to those who knocked, and ex- 
tended hospitality to all who entered. Unlike the Spanish adven- 
turers their goal was not hastily-acquired wealth ; their declared 
ambition was to serve Grod and the order ; an assertion reversed 
by their enemies, who say the order was first considered, and 
then Grod. They had neither impracticable schemes nor dazzling 
projects, and so seldom failed in the more rational aims they 
proposed to further. 

A Jesuit reduction was a model of order and regularity; per- 
fect uniformity was observed in its long, comfortably -built rows 
' of houses, and the small circuit of the town offered every facility 
for preserving its domestic tranquillity, or insuring a ready de- 
fense against any outside danger. The great square was the cen- 
tre point, the public resort and general rendezvous of the people ; 
upon it were erected the church, the college, the arsenal, the 
stores, the workshops of carpenters, joiners, weavers, and smiths, 
together with other important public buildings, all assembled un- 
der the close and unsleeping vigilance of the fathers, f The mis- 
sions of Moxos among other things were noted for their hospitals 

* Azara, vol. ii., p. 230-1-2. This information was obtained by Azara from the 
caciques referred to, who were still, living at the time of his stay in South America. 
Dobrizhoffer, however, relates nothing of the kind. Vide vol. i., p. 97-98. 

t Charlevoix, vol. i., p. 269. 



500 MILITARY ORGANIZATION. 

and medicines ; those of Paraguay enjoyed this advantage only 
partially,* but they needed them less. Moxos is a marshy, fever- 
ish, sickly country, while the climate of Missiones is highly salu- 
brious. At Concepcion, however, was established a very exten- 
sive dispensary. The gardens attached to the colleges were cul- 
tivated with every care, and may still be traced in neglected yer- 
ba groves, or some struggling growth of fruit and flowers. 

The church and arsenal were generally placed at opposite ex- 
tremities of the square. The military depot of the mission be- 
came a point of considerable importance after De Montoya's re- 
turn from Madrid, though the provisions of the grant were strict- 
ly enforced, and no such dangerous weapon as a fire-arm was ever 
intrusted to the entire keeping of a Guarani. Arms were dis- 
tributed only at stated times, and returned when the occasion for 
their use had passed ; but this caution did not prevent a frequent 
and regular drill, or even constant practice at shooting. Each 
reduction had its body of cavalry and infantry and military insig- 
nia. The foot-soldiers were variously armed with the marcana, 
the bow and arrow, the sling, sword, and musket ; the horsemen 
with the sabre, lance, and carbine. In the use of the sling and 
lance these Indians, as all the Indians of La Plata, were most 
skillful; prizes were frequently awarded to the successful com- 
petitor in trials with native weapons or fire-arms. The great 
square was the Campus Martius for. all such exercises, and there 
every Monday the corregidor reviewed his troops, the officers be- 
ing distinguished by their uniforms, richly laced with gold and 
silver, and embroidered with the device of the town.f These 
weekly evolutions terminated usually with a sham-fight. Equal 
parties were formed and stationed at opposite extremities of the 
square. A flag of truce was first forwarded, to prevent, if possi- 
ble, the coming disastrous struggle, but, being treated with con- 
tempt, signal to battle was given, and the combatants rushed to the 
midway shock. Always enthusiastic, and even impetuous upon 
such occasions, the fight often waxed so warm as to render neces- 
sary a forcible separation. This was never difficult, for the fa- 
thers had carefully soothed and quelled all domestic or tribal dis- 
sension. It was thus that they acquired that experience and dis- 
cipline which finally enabled them to compete successfully with 
the bandits of St. Paul ; it was this constant training that made 
their co-operation so effectual at Buenos Ayres, Montevideo, and 

* Charlevoix, vol. i., p. 272. f TJlloa,. vol. ii., p. 177. 



THE CHUECH. 501 

other places. And there was another element in this military 
schooling, in that they were taught to turn in the same cheerful 
obedient spirit from a long and doubtful struggle to the peaceful 
cultivation of their fields, or again to leave the plow and grasp 
the sword in defense of the missions — a cause as sacred in their 
eyes as the rescue of the Holy Sepulchre from the infidel to the 
crusader. 

The mission church, a building of considerable and often vast 
proportions, was constructed with an eye to symmetry, taste, and 
splendor, and was in no respect inferior to those of the Spanish 
cities. Its decorations rivaled the "richest of Peru." No ex- 
penditure, no time or labor was too great to be devoted to this 
sacred edifice; vast amounts were lavished upon it, and artists 
and artisans continually engaged to add to its magnificence. The 
surplus funds that remained in the mission coffers were conse- 
crated to the high altar, which shone with gold and silver vessels 
richly and elaborately chased ; frescoes and paintings, busts and 
statues, illustrative of scripture history or the lives of the saints, 
covered the walls and ceiling, lined the aisles, or were grouped 
around the altars ; but, above all, their wood- work was brought to 
a perfection which may still be traced in the missions of Santa 
Eosa, Santiago, and others. All bespoke a wealth and civiliza- 
tion unsurpassed in Spanish America. 

The pomp and display of the Eomish Church were brought to 
bear upon the simple minds here instructed and developed. The 
gorgeous ceremonies of high mass perhaps drew numbers within 
the pale of Christianity under circumstances that might have ren- 
dered of no avail the exhortations of a St. Bernardin. If there 
was no choir of stout, sonorous-voiced monks, there was one of 
neophytes, who chanted with feeling and perfect intonation the 
anthems of the Church. This important addition to the sacred 
service was never neglected. The Guarani had a fine musical 
organization — an ear delicately sensitive to sound. He display- 
ed grace and power in the use of the voice, and Was taught to 
perform with facility upon various instruments of modern in- 
vention, but of his own manufacture. The Jesuit found in 
him a natural, instinctive love of the art, which needed but the 
cultivation he was able to impart, and each town, in the course 
of time, had its bands and its choirs, • and every habitable spot 
resounded the day long with their music. Charlevoix thus 
quaintly alludes to the power of song over the -Guarani : " The 



502 RITES AND CEREMONIES. 

Jesuits having observed, in their journeys by water, that as soon 
as, to recreate themselves in an innocent and holy manner, they 
began to sing any spiritual canticle, crowds of Indians flocked to 
the banks, and seemed to take a particular liking to their music : 
they improved the opportunity to explain to them the subject 
of their songs, when, as if the melody had changed their hearts, 
and rendered them susceptible of the sentiments with which they 
longed to inspire them, they easily prevailed upon the poor crea- 
tures to follow, and gradually insinuated into their hearts the 
most elevated sentiments of religion, thus realizing in these sav- 
age countries what fable relates of Amphion and Orpheus." "We 
know not whether the analogy will hold good, but it is certain 
that music was a powerful instrument in the work of the missions. 

The attendance at church service was exactingly regular. On 
such occasions the men and women never mingled together. A 
line of separation was drawn down the middle aisle, and the two 
sexes respectively occupied the thus divided sections. Their at- 
tention to the service, their pious observance of all religious du- 
ties and the minor formalities of prayer, have elicited the praise 
of most writers of that and subsequent periods. But Azara, al- 
ways ready to criticise the aims and labors of the fathers, attrib- 
utes it to a grave, quiet, and peaceful disposition. The first evi- 
dences of coming day found the children of the reduction assem- 
bled for morning prayer, when they chanted until the " rejoicing 
in. the east" signaled the whole town to be present at early mass. 
Baptisms took place in the afternoon ; vespers and the evening 
prayer completed the duties of the day, when each one retired to 
his house. Marriages were celebrated only on festive days. 

Fond of music and the dance, given to martial display, gay and 
lively in disposition, as were the Gruarani, it is not astonishing that 
the fetes of the Church should have been events in the Paraguay 
reductions, celebrated by long and dazzling processions, and by 
the rejoicings of the whole people. That of the sacrament ap- 
pears to have eclipsed all others. The zoology and the botany 
of these fruitful regions of creation were represented on such oc- 
casions. The matting which covered the way was strewn with 
evergreens; arches were erected at short distances apart, not 
decked with banners and devices, but green branches ; tropical 
plants and superb flowers enriched the atmosphere with their 
fragrance ; attached to these were birds of every land and color, 
with sufficient scope allowed them to fly free in the air. " Nature 



SCHOOLS. 503 

appeared, if I may so speak," says Charlevoix, by way of a re- 
sume, " all life and soul upon the occasion." To render the pa- 
geant more imposing, they assembled wild beasts from the forests 
and fishes from the neighboring rivers. Lions* and tigers were 
chained at different points, and huge vases of piscatory specimens 
added to the general enlivenment. The public buildings and 
houses of the town were hung with tapestry — in the embroidering 
of which the women excelled — covered with wreaths and flowers, 
the most superb of any in the world. 

The musicians, dancers, and choir-boys led the procession ; the 
priest followed, wafer in hand, covered by a canopy carried by 
the cacique and corregidors, resplendent in the costly apparel 
worn during these festive displays. Behind the sacrament was 
borne the royal standard, and the military, all brilliantly capari- 
soned, brought up the rear. In this order they paraded through 
the mission, and after mass partook of a public banquet. Ulloa, 
one of the best authorities in this connection, and frequently quot- 
ed by Charlevoix, says: " In short, these neophytes omit no cir- 
cumstance either of festivity or devotion practiced in the most 
opulent cities of old Spain." 

The chief article of clothing was cotton, for the genial climate 
of Paraguay rendered necessary no heavy vesture. Short breech- 
es and shirts were made for the men, loose gowns for the women, 
and with the latter a cotton cap was not uncommon as a covering 
for the head. 

Much attention was paid to the schools. Early training was 
very properly regarded as the key to all future success. That 
the Spanish language should never have been taught is considered 
by many a sufficient evidence that the Jesuits were not looking 
dimly into the future. Excuses were not unfrequently offered for 
this omission in their course of instruction by the fathers. They 
pleaded the simplicity of the Guarani's mind, the impossibility 
of his ever acquiring a language possessed of such difficulties, al- 
though they succeeded in making the Latin of the Church very 
familiar to him. If the establishment of a hierocracy were con- 
templated, it is but another evidence of Jesuit sagacity ; for isola- 
tion is always essential to success, and ignorance of the Spanish 
tongue was the most formidable obstacle that could be placed be- 
tween the Indian and the Spaniard. 

* It would seem needless to remark that the so-called lion of South America is 
an altogether different animal from the African. 



504 DAILY LIFE. 

Finally there grew into existence among the missions an insti- 
tution for which there was never any actual necessity, and which 
foreshadowed further evil consequences. It was the police. It 
first consisted merely of a nightly watch for the purpose of pre- 
venting dissensions or wanderings from the reductions ; but it was 
enlarged to a passport system, stringent in all its acts and hostile 
to the stranger. The Jesuit writers speak in high terms of this 
police. It may have tended to preserve the order and discipline 
for which the missions were noted ; but it was one of the causes 
that precipitated them to their final ruin. 

Daily life among the Ghiarani was one of military order and reg- 
ularity. Alfred divided the day into three equal parts, assigning 
to each the duties which were to engage his mind ; but here we 
have a whole population, extending over a vast tract of country, 
subjected to restrictions and regulations timed like the rising and 
setting of the sun. To the most insignificant occupation was at- 
tached a stated time. There were hours marked for laboring in 
the field, for working in town, for retiring at night, for rising in 
the morning, and they were most rigidly enforced. The reduc- 
tion moved and had its being, as it were, with the precision of 
clock-work. The people prayed, toiled, ate, and slept so long and 
no longer ; from one duty or employment they passed to another 
like soldiers changing guard, equally participating in the charges 
of the day, each one undergoing his measure of fatigue for the one 
and common family. In going to the fields natural indolence was 
no excuse for straggling parties or lounging assemblages ; a life of 
military discipline did not permit of habits which their otherwise 
monotonous existence might have probably brought about. The 
moral rigor of the Jesuit was by every possible means infused 
into the bodily members of the Guarani. Formed in march- 
ing order on the great square, enlivened by music, and bearing 
a favorite statuette in lieu of a banner, they proceeded to the 
working-ground. There arrived, the first care was to erect an 
arbor for the patron figure, a tasteful covering of leaves and flow- 
ers ; then to each man was assigned by the cajpitan his duty for the 
day. The return was equally lively, and executed in the same 
orderly manner. 

These missions have been spoken of as forming what was termed 
a " Christian Republic." The republicanism seems to have had 
no other existence than in the institution of social equality among 
the natives, that the power of the actual rulers might be the more 



STRICT GOVERNMENT. 505 

absolute. Some Indians were necessarily endowed with titles and 
nominal powers, and were distinguished by carrying silver apple- 
headed canes as symbolic thereof; but they were the mere exec- 
utors of Jesuit will. Azara, on the one hand, offers his objections 
to this polity, because he attributes to it on the part of the native 
a general inert state of mind and body, and regards it as having 
offered no incentives to excellence in any art ; while Charlevoix, 
with other fathers, found in it all the admirable principles and re- 
sults which might exist in and proceed from a political formation 
of that nominal and actual character. Not that there was in real- 
ity any such political formation, but that the fathers would most 
felicitously overlook every consideration urged against the un- 
questioned rule vested in themselves, and present it to the world 
as in no wise interfering with the so-called republicanism of the 
reductions. The Indian, thus subjected to the moral influence as 
well as to the forcible control of the Jesuit, may have attained a 
higher degree of civilization than would have been possible under 
a less restraining government ; but, at the same time, this system, 
so skillfully grafted in the native's mind, after a few generations 
of time brought his race to that childish dependency which the 
missionaries, when in danger of being driven from their old and 
proper field, argued as unfitting it for actual sustenance under self- 
government. In every relation of life the Guarani felt the finger 
of the Jesuit father resting upon him, or acted unconsciously under 
its guiding influence. There was no sensible burden, however, to 
awaken a disaffection, and amusements or festive displays added 
to the general contentment. If conscious that there were chains 
gently riveted upon him, the native laughed and danced off the 
sense of enslavement. The fathers were always politic ; if their 
government was absolute and unquestioned, it was administered in 
a paternal spirit and faced with a semblance of liberty. They ac- 
corded to the natives two or three days of the week to be devoted 
to their private interest or advantage. There was very little actual 
profit to be derived from this apparent generosity, for it was never 
the intention of the fathers in granting these opportunities for free 
labor, that the Indians should become free merchants and trade 
according to their interest or pleasure. They could sell all their 
produce to the Church, but very strict prohibition prevented it 
ever passing the confines of the missions, except under instructions 
from a Jesuit superior. The fathers' reasons for this regulation 



506 TAEIJA MISSIONS. 

are specious or just, as we may be inclined to consider all acts of 
this character. 

This contact with an outer world could not but have recoiled 
with a ruinous effect upon the reductions. Spanish corruption — 
a term of strong meaning — would creep in among a virtuous, spot- 
less people. Spanish avarice and deceit were bugbears ever to be 
dreaded in a Christian republic of this character, where no Indian 
could la j claim to this or that object, for every spot was com- 
mon neutral ground, and what natural obstructions or climatic in- 
fluences did not permit them to till, was called God's inheritance. 
"Mine and thine" were unknown words; they were cautiously 
avoided upon all occasions. Men worked for the community, and 
every thing belonged to the community or its embodiment, the 
Jesuits — a difference regarded as immaterial. The Indian labored 
for his spiritual guardian and looked to him for a material return. 



CHAPTEE XXIX. 



Tarija Missions. — Failures. — Confided to Franciscan Friars. — Spanish Settlement 
in the Province of Chiquitos. — Foundation and Eemoval of Santa Cruz Missions. 
— First Establishment by Father Arce. — Successive Eeductions. — Native Of- 
ficials. — Jesuit System. — Abipones. — Concepcion and the Eosary. — DobrizhofFer. 
— Voyage along the Coast of Patagonia. — Patagonia Missions. — Eevolt of In- 
dians. — Cangapol. 

A Jesuit convent was erected at Tarija in 1574, the year of 
the foundation of the city. The Chiriguanos — a fierce, warlike 
tribe that had resisted the arms of Incas and Spaniards — occupied 
this region of country. Although their welfare was pronounced 
to be the all-absorbing object of the fathers, the mere announce- 
ment of disinterested motives was found insufficient to bend the 
children of the land to this nominally spiritual rule. Caciques 
who, in their native strength, recognized no earthly superior, 
scorned submission to men in long black frocks and of meek de- 
meanor. On the other hand difficulties were promptly met and, 
to a certain extent, removed. A Jesuit missionary never quailed 
before the perils of duty or the hazards, how imminent soever, of 
his vocation — a sublime indifference to danger associated him with 
the wildest and most ferocious tribes on the continent. 

At a very early period after the foundation of Tarija, an at- 



FAILURES. 507 

tempt was made to establish a mission on a small branch of the 
Kio Grande and upon the present site of Piray. Its existence 
was but brief. The natives were not made up of sufficiently 
credulous elements to place a necessary confidence in the alleged 
purposes of the fathers. These they drove out. They burned 
the church, pulled down the cross, and threw the image of St. 
Eosa, their patron saint, into a neighboring lake. Potrero — such 
was its name — remained a heap of ruins until 1768, when the 
mission was built anew, and intrusted to the only remaining re- 
ligious in the country, the Franciscan friars. It was then called 
Mission de Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion del Piray, which for 
brevity sake is known at present as Piray. Not far from this 
town, and on the Kio Grrande, the Jesuits also founded at an early 
period the Santissima Trinidad de Abapo, but again they were 
constrained to seek safety in flight. Abapo, restored shortly aft- 
er the expulsion of the order, still stands. 

In 1690 Father Arce, a zealous and indefatigable missionary, 
extended his labors into the valley of Salinas, east of Tarija. His 
efforts were at first partially successful. But neither the Mata- 
guayos nor the Chiriguanos could be induced to submit to the 
quiet and repose of a more civilized and hence a more stationary 
life. The fathers faced every obstacle and incurred every risk 
that the lost sheep might be found, and then had the mortification 
of seeing them dispersed as fast as they were collected together. 
Houses and churches were built, but the natives poured in and 
out like the water through the bottomless barrel ; until, wearied 
of the untiring perseverance of the missionaries, the Chiquiacas 
and Tariqueas resolved to rid themselves of their presence in sum- 
mary style. For this purpose they rose up in revolt, burned the 
missions, and massacred several of the fathers, threatening the 
rest with destruction if intrusion were again made into their ter- 
ritory. Frequent warlike demonstrations of this character gave 
an offensive and defensive aspect to the whole country, to all its 
little towns, hamlets, and missions. The Tarija reduction resem- 
bled an outpost or frontier fort — a safe retreat for foraging parties 
rather than a home for converted natives. Indeed, repeated and 
murderous assaults from outside Indians had rendered necessary 
the erection of strong fortifications and numerous guards to de- 
fend them. 

But the Tarija missions, properly speaking, do not belong to 
the Jesuit period. The numerous reductions founded in that 



508 



LIST OF MISSIONS. 



province date from a time subsequent to the expulsion of the or- 
der and were confided to Franciscan friars. They are inclosed in 
the annexed table as they were in 1799, with their respective po- 
sitions in latitude, population, and number of head of cattle. The 
authority is Fra Antonio Tomajuncosa. 



Name of Mission. 



Tribe. 



Latitude. 



Population 
in 1799. 



Number of 
Head of Cattle. 



4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 



Piray 

Florida 

Cabezas 

Abapo 

Mazavi 

Igrmri 

Tacuru 

Zaypuru 

Tapuita 

Tacuarembo. 
Boracupiti ... 

Piriti 

Ubay 

Parabiti 

Tayarencla .. 

Iti 

La Tapera . . . 
Azero 

Salinas 

Itan 

Centa 



Chiriguanos. 



Chaneses 

Chiriguanos 

Chaneses 

Chiriguanos and 

Mataguayos... 

Chiriguanos 

Mataguayos et 

Vejoses 



18° 40' 

18 42 

18 58 

19 — 
19 24 
19 26 
19 28 
19 31 
19 36 
19 38 
19 39 
19 42 
19 45 
19 58 
19 20 
19 22 
19 28 
19 16 

| 21 37 

21 18 

1 23 15 



1,630 

493 

1,440 

1,648 

1,384 

550 

313 

877 

553 

1,431 

719 

798 

874 

756 

362 

1,014 

67 

485 

375 

387 

520 



1,293 

1,195 

2,784 

2,000 

387 

216 

273 

609 

593 

160 

354 

312 

487 

66Q 

562 

843 

435 

1,835 

4,727 

916 

2,566 



16,576 



23,183 



From Tarija we pass to Chiquitos. 

Before giving particular and immediate attention to the mis- 
sions established in this latter province, it might not be relaxing 
too much the thread of our narrative to glance at the first early 
attempts at Spanish settlement among the natives of that country. 
But eleven years after Solis had steered his ship into the broad 
estuary of La Plata, instead of the waters of the Indies, and in the 
same year that Cabot sailed from Spain for a similar Dorado des- 
tination, Alexis Garcia, who had been expedited from St. Vincent 
— on the coast of Brazil — to explore the interior of Paraguay ad- 
joining the territory of the Portuguese countship, conceived the 
bold project of reaching the Andes and the golden land of Peru 
across the wilds of the Gran Chaco. A perfect familiarity with 
the Guarani language gave him every advantage in its execution. 
But the few Spanish explorers who had accompanied him thus 
far were too feeble an escort for this perilous journey ; so he ad- 
dressed himself for assistance to the natives with whom he had 
of late been brought into contact. He spoke of the wealth of this 



EXPEDITION OF GAECIA. 509 

distant land, of the conquests he was about to achieve, and of the 
share of plunder that would fall to their lot. Two thousand In- 
dians gathered around him to enlist in the enterprise and ac- 
knowledge him their leader.* Ee-enforced by this band of nu- 
merous and apparently eager followers, the adventurous Portu- 
guese pushed forward with the usual reckless daring of the early 
conquistadores. In dim perspective, down a long vista of savage 
dangers, a golden prospect drew him on. 

What his exact course was it would be difficult to say. He 
probably reached the Paraguay above Asuncion, descending in so 
doing, i't is said, a river called Paray,f and then, entering the 
Chaco, he passed in a northwesterly direction through the south- 
ern portion of Chiquitos, fighting his way through hordes of sav- 
ages, until he finally hailed the lofty mountains of present Bolivia 
or the ancient district of Charcas. Garcia, pursuing the policy of 
the Conquistadores, robbed and plundered in the name of the au- 
thority under which he acted. He ravaged the whole frontier of 
Alto Peru, baffled the force the Inca (probably AtahuallpaJ) had 
sent against him, and when heavily laden with booty retraced his 
steps to the Paraguay. Here he dispatched back to St. Yincent 
two of his three Portuguese companions to give an account of all 
that had transpired in his remarkable journey. Soon after their 
departure he was treacherously murdered by the Indians who had 
accompanied him.§ 

He perished, as did the unfortunate Solis, by an inglorious 
death, and when on the eve of reaping the laurels he had so 
dauntlessly won. He had made no maritime discovery to rival, 
in the annals of Spanish America, those of the chivalrous Balboa, 
or that " good old man" Sebastian Cabot, and their historical asso- 
ciates. But he accomplished an inland journey which must be 
looked upon as a bold and adventurous feat even in the age of 
daring to which it belongs. Pizarro was lingering on the little 
island of Gallo, when Garcia, almost alone with his Indian escort, 
first came in view of the lofty ridges and snow-clad peaks of Alto 
Peru; and when the conqueror of Peru landed at Tumbez, in the 
Bay of Guayaquil, this Portuguese hero had met with an untime- 
ly death, or we should probably have seen his name and deeds 

* Argentina, book i., chap, v., by Ruidiaz de Guzman, conquistador el afio de 
1612 - t Argentina, book i., chap, v., p. 24. 

t It is impossible to say at what period of 1526 Huascar Capuc divided his 
kingdom between the two Inca brothers. § Argentina, book i., chap. v. 



510 FARTHER EXPEDITIONS. 

enrolled on the brightest pages of the Conquest. These lesser 
lights have grown dim since Prescott wrote of Mexico and Peru, 
but should not be permitted to pass away from us. If we miss 
in the Plata conquest that advanced civilization among the abo- 
rigines which the great Inca roads will record to all time, the tale 
is replete with early adventure and thrilling withal. It enters 
but meagrely into our subject. 

In 1537, as we have seen, Juan d'Ayolas ascended the Para- 
guay, in search of some brilliant conquest, to latitude 21°. Here 
leaving his ships with Yrala, he marched for the country of the 
Incas, the golden land. Like Garcia, he reached his proposed 
destination, and returned, elated with his triumph and enriched 
with spoils, to perish at the hands of Payaguas Indians.* Such 
was the fate of the two early adventurers who crossed into Boli- 
via ; tragic incidents which conveyed in themselves, however, no 
discouragement to the hardy explorers of the day. 

It was five years later that Nunez Cabeza de Yaca placed 
Yrala in charge of an expedition to extend into Peru across Chi- 
quitos. His lieutenant failed to reach the difficult goal. Nunez 
himself, making a similar effort in the following year, met with 
no better success. Yrala, again, after being appointed to the 
governorship of Asuncion, renewed his heretofore futile attempts 
to unite the eastern and western districts of the king's large do- 
main. The new governor, with qualities which stamped him for 
that age and field of life, was so far successful upon this occasion 
as to reach the frontier of the Chuquisaca province. Thence he 
sent Nuflo de Chaves to wait upon the viceroy; but, on account 
of a rising discontent among his soldiers, he was forced to return 
before hearing from his lieutenant. Eventually Chaves proved to 
be the fortunate conquistador who was to first couple his name 
i with the establishment of a colony, intermediate between the al- 
ready conquered territories of Paraguay and Peru. 

On his return to Asuncion this officer again embarked with 
two hundred Spaniards and several thousand Indians, with in- 
structions from Yrala to ascend the Paraguay and found a city 
near its supposed head waters on the lake of Xarayes. This con- 
siderable command awakened ambitious motives in the breast of 
Chaves ; for what might not such a force accomplish in the beau- 
tiful and fertile country of Chiquitos ? The death of Yrala, which 
happened shortly after his departure, confirmed him in his de- 

* Argentina, book i., chap. xiii. 



SANTA CRUZ. 511 

signs. But while on this high road to fame, indulging in flat- 
tering expectations, and building already in air the castles of his 
new territory, he is suddenly accosted by a party from Peru, 
headed by Andes Manso, not unlike his own in numbers and ap- 
pearance, and apparently pursuing similar objects. Mutual salu- 
tations could not dispel the differences that might arise from this 
contact, and as the coffers of neither one were sufficiently replen- 
ished to buy off the other, the expanded and expanding views of 
the two commanders brought them' to the very broad conclusion 
that the vast interior of the South American continent was not of 
sufficient dimensions to contain them both. They consequently 
referred the matter to the Marquis de Camette, Viceroy of Peru. 
Chaves here had the advantage, for the viceroy was a connection, 
and had always entertained, we are told, an affection for him, 
though from reputation alone, as they had never met. Upon 
him he conferred the territory of Chiquitos and a grant for the 
foundation of a city, much to the discomfiture of the less fortunate 
Manso. Hence, in 1560, were laid the foundations of the old city 
of Santa Cruz de la Sierra. Chaves' government was wise and 
peaceful, but short-lived. He was assassinated by his native sub- 
jects. 

The site of Santa Cruz was for many reasons pronounced objec- 
tionable. Situated in the heart of a densely-populated Indian 
country, grave impediments presented themselves for a free in- 
tercourse either with Paraguay or Peru. Moreover, it lay at too 
great a distance from Bolivia. Communication with Asuncion 
was not so important as with Tarija, Tucuman, Cordova, and other 
westerly cities, so that in 1592 the city was removed several hund- 
red miles westward, to where it now stands. At this distance of 
time, with all the implements of modern civilization at command, 
we can perceive that Chaves' position was the more judicious of 
the two ; for did the population of the Santa Cruz department 
centre at present on the waters of the Paraguay, it is probable that 
the vast resources of that interior country, rich in natural products 
and mineral wealth, would have been developed to a very great 
extent. "We should not need be told that a broad and naviga- 
ble stream runs its course of nine hundred miles through as fer- 
tile a country as ever the sun shone upon, and yet undisturbed 
for the uses of man. This city of Chaves would have been the 
great mart of the interior of South America, connecting with the 
tributaries of the Amazon and the cities of Bolivia ; not a mere 



512 FATHER ARCE. 

point of distribution for the daily wants of a slowly-growing iso- 
lated population, but the head and fountain of a commercial ac- 
tivity, which even Spanish indolence could not have restrained. 
We shall see what was accomplished on a smaller scale by the 
Jesuit missions, following, from necessity, the direction of the re- 
moved city; and, judging from their success, we can conjecture 
what would have been at the present time the old Santa Cruz, 
with an easy outlet to the products which must have poured into 
its lap. 

A year before this change in the locality of Santa Cruz the Jes- 
uits entered the country. The governor had written-entreatingly 
to Tarija, requesting the unfailing services of the order in the 
long-neglected spiritual instruction of the natives throughout his 
province. This led to the appointment of Father Arce, whose 
long experience well qualified him for the calling he so eagerly 
embraced as missionary among the Chiquitos. His arrival was 
viewed with suspicion ; no enthusiasm from the people, who had 
an innate distrust of and dislike for the Jesuit, inaugurated his 
good work. The slave-traffic generally ceased its existence wher- 
ever a father made his appearance ; and though a mother and her 
child could at that time have been bartered for a sheep and lamb,* 
even this was a sufficient consideration with the many dependent 
upon the traffic to insist upon its continuation. Father Arce, 
however, without farther exordium than to secure his own per- 
sonal safety as best he could, entered heart and hand upon his 
newly-assigned duties. We can imagine the difficulties and dan- 
gers that beset this father, and, at the same time, his perfect disre- 
gard of them ; for, schooled in the failures and reverses of the Ta- 
rija missions, his composure was not now to be disturbed nor his 
courage to fail. 

The Chiquitos Indians were a comparatively intelligent and in- 
dependent race. The more peaceful and stationary habits of the 
Guarani were unknown to them, so that the fathers did not meet 
with the same pliant submission to the rule proposed to be estab- 
lished over them. They had warlike instincts, were brave, and 
excelled in all manly exercises. " A young man found it a hard 
task to get a wife until he had given proofs of his courage, or skill 
in hunting."f Long-established religious rites and settled super- 
stitions were found existing among them. They neither feared 
nor worshiped a Supreme Deity, but lived in great dread of dev- 

* Charlevoix, vol. ii., p. 103. f Id., vol. ii., p. 97. 



THE CHIQUITOS. 513 

ils. They believed in the immortality of the soul or the body, 
and interred provisions with the dead, together with arms to sup- 
ply themselves when these should have been consumed. They 
called the moon their mother. On occasion of an eclipse they 
imagined her to be bitten by dogs, and would arm themselves 
with bows and arrows, shooting into the air until the satellite re- 
sumed its wonted brightness. Thunder and lightning were to 
them occasioned by quarrelings among the departed of the tribe 
and the heavenly bodies, among which they were supposed to take 
up their final abode. They took omens from the howls of wild 
beasts and chattering of parrots.* 

Here was an open field for the missionary ; these mists Father 
Arce was called upon to dispel. Astronomy, among her sister sci- 
ences, has always been awarded the preference by the Jesuits — 
Coeli enarrant gloriam Dei. It has enabled them in their peculiar 
vocation to associate in a more religious spirit things visible with 
the invisible, what we see by day or by night in the firmament 
with what may lie beyond. And we can picture to ourselves this 
father engaged with unusual zeal in removing the superstitions 
that had clustered around the darkened souls of the tribe, and ex- 
plaining to them in simple language the wondrous mechanism of 
the heavens, tracing the whole to a mighty spiritual power, in 
whom he would have them believe and put their trust. 

The first fruit of his labors was the establishment of San Xavier, 
in 1691. Yet scarce had this much been accomplished when the 
Mamelucos of St. Paul, the Bedouins of South America, were an- 
nounced as pursuing the direction of his people. Defeated in 
Paraguay and on the Uruguay, they had extended their atrocities 
even to the distant territory of Chiquitos, and already depopulat- 
ed, at one fell swoop, whole villages, men, women, and children. 
The energetic measures of Father Arce soon put an end to these 
incursions. As the Chiquitos lived mostly apart in families or 
squads, a want of unity had at first given great advantage to the 
enemy, who leisurely overawed and captured the small parties 
that fell in their way. But, well trained in martial exercises, the 
natives presented a formidable appearance when banded together 
into one force and led on to the fight by their missionary. A few 
Spaniards also tendered them some assistance. The Mamelucos 
were defeated, driven across the Paraguay, and never appeared on 
its western banks again. 

* Charlevoix, vol. ii., p. 98-9. D'Orbigny, vol. iii., p. 32-3. 

33 



514 MISSIONS AMONG THE CHIQUITOS. 

From this time until the period of their expulsion the Jesuits 
were supreme in power in this province. Many other missions 
followed that of San Xavier. In 1696 San Eaphael was built; 
in 1706 San Jose and San Juan ; in 1707 Concepcion and San 
Ignacio. The foundations of Santiago were not laid until the 
year 1740, nor those of Santa Corazon until 1751. Santa Anna 
and San Miguel were founded at an earlier period.* These were 
the most important of the Chiquitos Missions. They were not 
unsettled masses of people attracted by beads and trinkets to list- 
en to the declamation of a missionary, but well-organized com- 
munities, possessing every element of civilization and all the feat- 
ures of an orderly government. They offered, moreover, very 
peculiar advantages for a perfect development of this Jesuit sys- 
tem, and, consequently, to arrive at its actual and reliable results, 
to balance its faults against its virtues, we are led to give them 
the preference over all others in our research. They occupied an 
isolated position, one which made them independent of Spanish 
manufactories and of Spanish products, as it freed them from the 
suspicions, jealousies, and animosities of governors and bishops. 
After the chastisement of the Paulistas they had, in the enjoy- 
ment of a peaceful and harmonious existence, been enabled to ac- 
quire and practice many industrial arts. While wranglings, dis- 
turbances, and revolts were upturning Paraguay, and the Parana 
missions bristled with arms, the neophytes of Chiquitos were cul- 
tivating their fields, establishing manufactories, and carrying on a 
remunerative trade with Bolivia and Peru. The Jesuits' views, 
plans, and operations were here untrammeled and unchecked. 
Santa Cruz was too distant and too weak to hold over them the 
rule so often exercised by Asuncion elsewhere, and thus their sys- 
tem was probably brought to whatever perfection the age and 
country would admit of. One thing we know, that since the de- 
parture of the fathers the Chiquitos have been gradually receding 
to their original rude haunts. It may be well to note the various 
divisions and offices of employment throwing light upon their 
condition. 

As in the Parana reductions, there were attached to each Chi- 
quitos mission two fathers, the one charged with the spiritual, the 
other with its temporal affairs. The correjidor was the native 
chief, but exercised no authority of his own. He was the mere 

* D'Orbigny, vol. iii., p. 40: Fernandez. Fernandez wrote a history of the Chi- 
quitos Missions up to 1723. His work was published in 1726. 



NATIVE OFFICIALS. 515 

executor of his superior's orders, assisted by a teniente, alferes, and 
alcaldes, all subordinate military officers. Added to these, a chief- 
justice and a sergeant-major formed what was termed the "ca- 
bildo," or tribunal — the Jesuit's privy council. Every morning 
these members of the cabildo, bearing a cane headed by a silver 
apple as emblematic of their position, waited upon the fathers to 
receive their daily instructions.* Though the missionary's power 
and will were arbitrary, he was cautious to call this tribunal for 
the consideration of all matters of importance, and aided by their 
advice to adapt himself and his measures to the wants and wishes 
of the people. There was no clashing of opinion or purpose. If 
the fathers found themselves in the wrong they gradually, imper- 
ceptibly yielded their ground. In all private occupations, in ev- 
ery art and trade, there was adopted a similar system of order and 
control. To every branch of manual labor or mental training, to 
every parcialidad or division, there was a master — a capitan, as he 
was called. 

We have already seen that the Indians were led out in military 
procession to work in the fields. The overseers or captains were 
styled fiscales. The office of cruceros was an important one, gen- 
erally filled by men of supposed experience, who were known and 
recognized by their wearing a black cross.f They were the phy- 
sicians, the medical stewards, and nurses, and were also charged 
to give notice of births and deaths, to prepare for marriages and 
confessions.;): 

The Mayor domo de Colegio was a kind of commissary general. 
He. was intrusted with the granaries, the stores, and provisions of 
the mission, and distributed the weekly allowances. 

The Capitan de Carpinteria was literally the captain of carpen- 
try, the constructor general, "commissioner of public buildings." 
He had in charge not only the erection of churches and other 
public edifices, but the construction of every house in the town, 
the manufacture of furniture and other wood- work. Great skill 
was attained in this art,, giving rise to a considerable commerce 
with Santa Cruz and other Spanish cities. The Chiquitos Indians 

* D'Orbigny, vol. iii., p. 44. 

f A party of Spaniards once ascending the Paraguay noticed that a huge cross 
had been erected in a small Indian village situated on the river, and having in- 
quired into the cause of it were told that the natives had heard from the fathers so 
much of the protecting influence of the cross that they had hoped it would keep 
off the jaguars infesting the neighborhood. — Charlevoix. 

+ D'Orbigny, vol. iii., p. 44. 



516 COMMUNITY OF LABOR. 

also excelled in turning. The turners had their Capitan de Ro- 
sarios, and their manufactures were sold at considerable cost 
throughout Peru.* 

The Capitan de Herreros was the captain of the blacksmiths. 
He was master of the iron-works, provided iron for building 
purposes, working implements, and every description of utensil. 
Hatchets, locks, and the like were not unfrequently exported. 

Another important office was that of the Capitan de Teyederos 1 
or captain of the weavers. The Jesuits grew cotton extensively, 
and manufactured it not only for their own domestic purposes, 
but exported yearly a large quantity of hammocks, table-cloths, 
ponchos, and similar articles. 

The wax department had likewise a director. The mule-driv- 
ers, or transporters, and shoemakers were headed respectively by 
a captain. The Capitan de Plateros had charge of the sacred 
vases, candelabras, and all decorations of the church. He direct- 
ed the manufacture of the crosses and apple-headed canes already 
mentioned, and was chief of all the gold, silver, and copper smiths. 
Another office belonging to the church was that of the Maestro de 
Capilla, the master of the chapel. He had charge of the church- 
choirs, taught music, singing, and dancing, instructed also in read- 
ing, writing, and deciphering music, and had mainly under his 
care the schools of the mission. 

These are some of the offices established by the Jesuit fathers 
to which we are led to refer as proof of the advanced civilization 
they had been enabled here to introduce, and as affording an illus- 
tration of the workings of their system. In fifty years from the 
arrival of the sons of Loyola the scattered squads of Chiquitos 
and other neighboring Indians had been formed into one and a 
marked people, adopting a Christian mode of life and worshiping 
in churches that rivaled the finest in Spanish America, indeed 
often surpassing them in the costliness of their decorations. Writ- 
ers do not hesitate to place these Indian towns in advance of the 
Spanish.^ Their manufactures were finer and better, the produce 
of their lands superior and more abundant. The circulation of 
money was dispensed with, as the Indians worked for the com- 
munity and had in turn every want supplied. Dii laborious om- 
nia vendunt. Their treasury was annually filled, we read, with a 
surplus of $60,000, all of which was lavished upon the churches, 
the public buildings, and necessary mission improvements. 

* D'Orbigny, vol. iii., p. 45. t Id., Viedma, etc. 



THE CHIQUITOS LANGUAGE. 517 

Painting and sculpture were not neglected. Marble statues by 
Koman sculptors found their way to the Chiquitos missions,* and 
paintings of merit adorned the walls of the churches. The In- 
dians themselves were highly skilled in the art of wood sculpture, 
which chiefly supplied the place of stone. 

We can well wonder at this rapid change in the tide of the 
Chiquitos' existence, and the future development of his capabil- 
ities subjected to this religious government ; and we become deep- 
ly impressed in favor of the latter, whatever Spanish writers may 
regard as its ultimate tendency and aim. One of the many tri- 
umphs of the Jesuit in this province should be especially record- 
ed — a work worthy of his highest efforts. I refer to the language 
of the country. A knowledge of the language spoken by the 
tribe among whom the missionary proposes to establish himself is 
certainly an essential acquirement. The Jesuits were thorough 
linguists and understood many Indian dialects, but the most 
famed polyglot among them might have stood appalled at the 
unmeaning sounds that grated upon his ear on entering the terri- 
tory of Chiquitos. Up to the latter part of the seventeenth cen- 
tury thirteen languages as distinct as English and French were 
there spoken — so trifling was the intercourse between the respect- 
ive tribes. The Chiquitos tongue, however, was happily the most 
universal ; the other twelve were each embraced in a compara- 
tively narrow compass. To acquire all these bordered on an im- 
possibility. They must be moulded into one ; there must be one 
language for the whole Indian race to be settled into these west- 
ern missions. This was the project the fathers had conceived, 
and they adopted every means for its execution. Chiquitos In- 
dians and instructors were largely disseminated among their neigh- 
bors. They taught in their schools and conversed in none but 
the Chiquitos language. Prayers were said in that tongue, and 
in it also all business was transacted. Gradually, with time, these 
efforts became successful. Every year added new affinities to the 
varied patois. They are at present one and the same Chiquitos 
language, and it is a living monument to the labors of the Jesuit, 
rising above the meaner things writers would attribute to his 
ambition and self-interest. 

Yet all the wealth and splendor of Chiquitos were rivaled in 
the more northern and marshy province of Moxos, notwithstand- 
ing its sickly atmosphere and. continuous subjection to riverine 

* Vide D'Orbigny, Chiquitos, vol. iii. 



518 MOXOS MISSIONS. 

inundations. Moxos was under the more direct supervision of 
the Audience of Charcas. That body made several unsuccessful 
attempts, toward the middle of the seventeenth century, to civil- 
ize its inhospitable haunts. It was not until the year 1686 that 
the foundations of a mission were here laid, called Loreto — the 
name given, it will be remembered, to the most early of all these 
missionary settlements, the ill-fated town that fell into the merci- 
less hands of the Paulistas. This triumph was followed up by a 
succession of similar acquisitions. Trinidad was standing in 1687, 
San Ignacio in 1689, San Xavier in 1690, San Jose in 1691, San 
Borjia in 1693, six reductions containing, according to Father 
Equiluz, the historian of the Moxos missions, nearly 20,000 in- 
habitants. Toward the period of the Jesuit expulsion eight oth- 
ers* were added to this number. San Pedro was regarded as the 
capital city, although in 1691 the population of Loreto was in- 
creased to 4000 souls. 

These Moxos missions were but a repetition of those of Chiqui- 
tos. Both had their parcialidads and capitans, similar in every 
respect. The Chiquitos reductions, though founded at a later 
period generally than the Moxos, seem to have served as a model 
for the latter, who, observing the excellence of their wood and 
iron work, did not hesitate to derive every advantage from se- 
curing Chiquitos workmen and imitating Chiquitos art. Cattle 
were brought from Santa Cruz, tradesmen from Peru and Chiqui- 
tos. Moxos had its cotton factories, its iron- works, and soon ex- 
celled in various kinds of domestic manufacture. Its towns aver- 
aged three thousand souls, with churches unsurpassed on this con- 
tinent for their vast proportions and lavish expenditure in deco- 
rations and votaries. The church of San Pedro alone contained 
two thousand pounds of massive silver, and valuable works of 
art.f 

There was this difference between these two converted tribes, 
that among the Moxos Indians there existed a social distinction 
peculiarly denned. This, as we have seen, was studiously avoid- 
ed in all the previous missionary establishments which have come 
under our observation. There must be no rule but that of the 
missionary, and, to render it the more absolute, there must be no 

* San Pedro, Santa Anna, Exaltacion, Magdalena, Concepcion de Baures, San 
Simon, Joaquim, and San Martin. 

t D'Orbigny, vol. iii., p. 233. In this sum are not contained the offerings to 
the Virgin. 



THE ABIPONES. 519 

improved rank or grade among the natives. This perfect equal- 
ity was a fundamental principle in both the Guayra and Parana 
missions, and hence they were called Christian republics. Along 
the Marmore and San Miguel, however, we find an aristocracy 
and a commons as distinct as old Egyptian castes. The former 
were called Las Familias, the latter, very expressively, El Pueblo. 
The families were the capitans and higher order of artisans, the 
people composed the soldiery and lower class of laborers. The 
superiority of the one was duly recognized over that of the other, 
nor did the Jesuits seek to remove the line thus drawn between 
the two classes of people. They were all religious enthusiasts, 
submitting themselves cheerfully to self-torture and persecution 
if chancing in any way to offend the Deity.* 

Such was the Jesuit empire in part toward the period of its 
fall. Now expanding with the march of civilization, now a bea- 
con to this, it had known no decline. With a hundred arms it 
swayed the native population of Santiago, Tucuman, the Parana, 
the Uruguay, and Paraguay. Thence ascending the Paraguay 
Eiver, or skirting along the last slopes of the Andes, we have 
seen Chiquitos and Moxos yielding with superstitious reverence 
to its rule. We have traversed almost the whole basin of La 
Plata, we have stepped beyond it, failing to discover any termi- 
nus to this religious government. In the whole extent of this 
portion of the continent there was scarcely a tribe that had not at 
some period yielded to its genial influence, though not unfre- 
quently this success proved a mere temporary check of barbarous 
habits and customs, to fall back with merciless penalty upon the 
authors of the good work. No tribe had been found more diffi- 
cult of persuasion than the Abipones. 

This race covered that portion of the Gran Chaco which lies 
south of the Yermejo. They were among the most warlike and 
ferocious Indians of the southern continent, exhibiting none of the 
sedentary habits and docile manner of life which so fitted the Gua- 
rani for Jesuit rule — a bold, equestrian people, roving and wander- 
ing from place to place, and, like the Getulians, making that spot 
their home where the night chanced to find them. Fond of war, 
endlessly engaged in strife with their neighbors, and practiced in 
the destructive use of their native weapons, they had preferred, 
we are told, the enmity of the Spaniards to their friendship ; they 
would rather excite their fears than their love — a sanguinary pref- 

* D'Orbigny, vol. iii., p. 230. 



520 FATHER PASTOR. 

erence which, they had every opportunity of gratifying. The name 
of Abipone became one of terror. Their plunderings, massacres, 
and devastations have been recorded by a missionary who lived 
long among them.* The people of Santa Fe considered at one 
time the proposition of abandoning their city, so completely was 
it at the mercy of these besiegers. Not until a peace concluded 
in 1747 were Corrientes and the neighboring missions freed from 
the same relentless pursuers. In the course of time every Indian 
town and hamlet was swept from the country watered by the Sa- 
lado, and the panic more than once spread to Santiago and Cor- 
dova. Missionaries, since the days of St. Francis Solano, had suc- 
ceeded in appeasing none of this revengeful, bloody, inhuman 
spirit. Fears and anxieties were as much alive and as keenly felt 
as they had been for ages back. 

With the name of Solano are associated those of Barzana and 
Aiiasco.t But their endeavors, whatever they may have been, 
gave rise to few practical results. The Spanish population in the 
country was not sufficient to daunt so vigorous and unyielding a 
tribe as the Abipones. At a much later period these efforts were 
renewed by Fathers Pastor and Cerqueira. Pastor advanced a 
great distance into the heart of the Abiponian territory. For this 
perilous mission he had yielded up the mastership of the college 
of Santiago, probably feeling himself fitted for its difficulties from 
his indomitable energy and large experience among the native 
tribes. From Matara, on the Salado, he passed into the Chaco, 
and, before completing his journey, found himself close to the wa- 
ters of the Yermejo. Meeting here a band of two hundred men, 
he addressed them in the Tonocote language, and succeeded in 
gaining their good wishes. 

Caliguila was the name of the chief here encountered. He in- 
vited the missionary to instruct his people. He further showed 
his complete confidence in Pastor by extending to him the liberty 
of erecting a church. But, true to his warlike instincts, he enter- 
ed a provision that the young men should not be detained at long 
prayers and tedious ceremonies, lest inactivity and sedentary hab- 
its should damp their martial ardor and lessen their dexterity in the 
use of arms ; \ and, moreover, that they should be allowed to carry 
their bows and arrows during the service of the Church. These 
were Caliguila's only conditions. Pastor erected a huge cross, 
as his first step, and dedicated the land to Christ. One by one he 

* Dobrizhoffer, vol. iii. f Id., vol. iii., p. 103. J Id., vol. iii., p. 109. 



PASTOR'S LABORS. 521 

led the Indians before the crucifix, and there made them kneel. 
He explained and expounded, with unceasing enthusiasm ; party 
after party, passing that way, joined his congregation. Solano's 
spirit seemed to have descended upon him. To calm Abiponian 
fury and in any wise subject it, was regarded as something super- 
human. This Pastor did ; and, as an evidence of his extreme 
good fortune, he found the quiet and leisure for arranging a vo- 
cabulary of the native language. But, a century ago, the memory 
of it alone survived.* He excited the reverence, and, to a certain 
extent, the love of this newly -baptized people, though he some- 
what failed to inspire the necessary fears of a dread evil spirit. 
He, upon one occasion, as related by Dobrizhoffer, desired to bap- 
tize an old female conjurer, who was about passing to another 
world. She resolutely declined to submit. The father pictured to 
her eternal joys on the one hand and eternal torments on the other. 
He threatened her with the evil spirit and strove to bring to her 
comprehension that her soul would perish unless she reformed 
before passing from time to eternity. He was but little heeded. 
Laughing at his earnestness she replied that she had too long held 
connection with the demon to think of fearing him now ; and so 
she died. 

Pastor, like St. Francis Solano, was prematurely recalled, though 
his ultimate aim was to return with a number of fathers for the 
purpose of missionizing the territory of the Abipones. According 
to Father Sigano, he was sent to treat at Madrid and Eome in be- 
half of his province. When about to sail with the desired number 
of Jesuits, assembled from all parts of Europe, he was informed 
that no foreign missionaries could enter Paraguay or the Plata 
country, which makes the worthy father disappear. This prohi- 
bition was revoked at a later period ; the reason of its origin can 
be readily conceived. Fears of Jesuit independence were not 
much regarded so long as Spanish missionaries governed the re- 
ductions. But once intrusted to men from all quarters of the 
globe, the Spanish monarch was alarmed that they might at some 
time refuse allegiance to his crown, and acknowledge that author- 
ity to which their local inclinations might lead them, or acknowl- 
edge none at all. 

A considerable space of time elapsed before any advantage was 
taken of Pastor's successful efforts _ in converting the Abipones. 
Old feuds were revived. A fearless attack upon some Spanish 

* Dobrizhoffer, vol. iii., p. 110. 



522 CHRISTOPHER ALMARAZ. 

city was followed up by an active pursuit of the offenders. There 
seemed to be no preventive to the constant collision of the two 
races. Upon one occasion a Spanish boy — Christopher Almaraz 
— was taken captive by the natives and carried into the interior 
of the country. Almaraz lived to be the founder of a mission. 
He grew up among the savage Abipones and became a savage 
himself in all their ways of life. The very fact of his origin 
seemed to have rendered him the most hostile of his tribe toward 
the white race. In many a plundering expedition and cold- 
blooded massacre he was the foremost. He "was an Abipone in 
the eyes of the Abipones themselves."* He became wedded to 
an Indian woman. In an unsuccessful defense against a strong 
Spanish force this woman was taken prisoner and conducted to 
Santiago. Almaraz's affections were strong ; he sought to recov- 
er his wife. Shut up in that distant city he saw no hope of effect- 
ing his object except by some peaceful means. He bethought 
himself of founding a colony, that the many captives who had 
been taken from them might be returned to their homes. For 
this purpose he addressed himself to his cacique, Alaykin, and the 
project met with his approbation. Almaraz offered himself as 
negotiator in the matter. He reached Santiago in safety and his 
petition was granted. The captured wife was returned and Con- 
cepcion was built. Azara situates it upon a lake two hundred 
miles from the Parana and about midway between the Yermejo 
and Salado. Azara is good authority for all the Paraguay coun- 
try, but Dobrizhoffer only can be here relied upon. He says it 
was nine leagues from the Parana, sixty from Santa Fe, and one 
hundred and seventy from Santiago. This position is easily de- 
termined. Dobrizhoffer was at one time appointed to this mis- 
sion, and states all the vicissitudes to which it was subjected. 
Though Alay kin's authority was supreme, he proved false to 'his 
promises and Jesuit interests by abandoning the reduction and 
carrying off most of the cattle. Its present locality was to be de- 
sired in every respect for its natural advantages, but the unfortu- 
nate hostility and insubordination of the Indians compelled a 
change. After a perilous journey to Santiago and back, Dobriz- 
hoffer removed the mission to the, Salado, but a want of fresh wa- 
ter drove them from place to place until their final settlement on 
the Eio Dulce. 

There are three other important missions to be noted, St. Je- 

* Dobrizhoffer, vol. in., p. 213. 



MISSION OF THE ROSARY. 523 

ronymo, St. Ferdinando, and the Eosary. Father Hobezozo found- 
ed the first of these. Dobrizhoffer places it on the northern bank 
of the Kio Eey, ten leagues from Concepcion. St. Ferdinando 
was established under the auspices of the Governor of Corrientes, 
and situated across the river, opposite to that city. The founda- 
tion of the Eosary took place in 1763. Dobrizhoffer, who was its 
founder, has given its history minutely. He had no exalted ap- 
preciation of his mission. He compares its inhabitants to the 
generation of one thing from the corruption of another, to the 
creation of "insects from putrid substances, because they were 
already the outcasts of the Church and other ruined reductions." 
He next finds fault with the name, and, with a poor jest, calls it 
" the most thorny of all the colonies." The advent of the Eosary 
among the sisterhood of missions was attended with more than 
usual military effect. The known warlike habits of the Abipones 
rendered this necessary. Four hundred soldiers accompanied the 
governor and Dobrizhoffer in descending the river from Corrien- 
tes. With extreme caution they landed every night on the left 
bank of the river, until their final arrival at the proposed site of 
the new mission. The governor was a brave man, but had learned 
to live in no little fear of an Abipone. The most vigilant watches 
day and night, a strong guard in continual attendance upon his 
person, four pieces of cannon planted at the entrance to his house, 
and " forty large muskets" within, could not calm his unstrung 
nerves in the face of this Indian tribe about to embrace the Chris- 
tian religion. If we can trust our author, who jokes at all his 
movements, he took every fly for an enemy. At last a most pre- 
cipitous and unlooked-for decampment of the whole force left 
Dobrizhoffer alone in his glory. Some friendly Indians rushed 
to the banks to wish the party farewell, but the rapid execution 
of the governor's orders did not permit of this pleasure. 

On the other hand Dobrizhoffer's equanimity was not for once 
disturbed. With cross in hand, freely and undisturbed he made 
his way among the Indians, counseled and commanded, and some- 
times acted as mediator. Left alone in the power of the Abi- 
pones, entirely isolated from the other missions, badly armed 
against the desperate tribes that infested the neighborhood, with 
the smoke of their fires curling in sight, it required no small 
amount of fortitude to remain at his. dangerous post. " Yet," says 
he, "depending on the protection of the Almighty alone, I never 
felt myself more secure." 



524 DOBKIZHOFFER. 

While relating this Christian resignation to the perils of his sit- 
uation, Dobrizhoffer does not omit to strongly depict its disadvan- 
tages and its miseries. According to his account, never was such 
mean provision" made for the establishment of a mission ; and 
the little he did possess was either scattered or stolen. The en- 
mity of neighboring Indians did not permit of the enjoyment of 
the least quiet to the Eosary. Macobios and Tobas made sudden 
and frequent descents upon the defenseless village to plunder it 
of horses and cattle, if not to massacre the inhabitants. Sleep- 
less nights and harassing cares preyed upon the disconsolate fa- 
ther, whom long experience alone among the savages could have 
nerved to such endurance. A successful expedition of Spanish 
horsemen against the Tobas Indians brought upon his reduc- 
tion the final revenge of the latter. In due time six hundred 
mounted Tobas surrounded the mission ; but, after a doubtful 
struggle, they retreated with whatever booty had chanced to fall 
into their possession. Dobrizhoffer, upon this occasion, was se- 
verely wounded by an arrow. The discharge of his arms had 
thrown the enemy into a panic, without waiting to experience to 
any degree their deadly effect. The father faithfully fulfilled his 
many and arduous duties; long years had he devoted to this 
little-remunerative cause; and there was no sacrifice to which he 
had not cheerfully submitted. He was a type of the stern and 
unflinching qualities of the Jesuit missionary. At the same time 
he was no stranger to learning or literature and the amenities of 
life, notwithstanding eighteen years' stay among the Abipones. 
On his return to Yienna the Empress Queen Maria Theresa often 
engaged his company in " discourse both pleasurable and sage." 
And here it was that 

"He the years of his old age employed, 
A faithful chronicler, in handing down 
Names which he loved and things Avell worthy to be known." 

Southey has still farther thus preserved his name : 

" He was a man of rarest qualities, 
Who to this barbarous age had confined 
A spirit with the learned and the wise 
Worthy to take its place, and from mankind 
Receive their homage, to the immortal mind 
Paid in its just inheritance of fame : 
But he to humbler thoughts his heart inclined. 
From Gratz, amid the Styrian hills, he came, 
And Dobrizhoffer was the good man's name." 



MISSIONS IN PATAGONIA. 525 

A remote region still remained open to Jesuit enterprise and 
adventure. The discoverers of many an unknown land, from Af- 
rica to China, and from China to Peru and Paraguay, the fathers 
were planning anew, in the middle of the last century, an expedi- 
tion destined to extend into the desert promontory of Patagonia. 
The Spanish government being at the same time anxious to ex- 
plore its coast, a joint party left Buenos Ayres in 1745, during 
the reign of Philip Y. The Jesuits attending the expedition were 
Fathers Quiraga, Cardiel, and Strobl. The Straits of Magellan 
were reached by them. They probably made a faithful survey 
of the coast, its harbors and advantages ; but on returning bronght 
reports of a cold, bleak, barren, and unpopulated country. The 
three missionaries landed upon several occasions and undertook 
journeys into the interior, but scarcely met with a sign of life or 
living creature. This failure had only the effect of awakening 
new energies in the Patagonian cause. 

The town of Concepcion had already been built, and its prospects 
satisfied every expectation. It was situated among the Pampas 
Indians, who cover that extensive region to the south of Buenos 
Ayres, and served as a midway point and barrier for the city 
against the hordes that infested that district of country. Father 
Strobl, an Austrian, and Querini, a Venetian of noble family, 
were chosen to take it in charge. By gentle rule and indulgent 
treatment they gained over to their spiritual government many of 
the Patagonian Indians who came to visit the settlement. Dis- 
covering the peculiar benefits that might arise from an establish- 
ment of this character in their own midst, they did not hesitate to 
make expressions of a desire that the fathers should visit their 
country and there build towns. This proposition was embraced 
with avidity. Fathers Falconer and Cardiel undertook in 1746 to 
satisfy the spiritual cravings of the supposed giant Patagonians.* 
Traveling some distance southwest, they first "felt the pulse of 
the people," according to Dobrizhoffer. Settling in a favorable 
location they founded a mission, to which was given the name of 
Nuestra Senora del Pilar. Shortly afterward the erection of an- 
other took place in the same neighborhood. It was called Nuestra 
Senora de los Desamparados, but why its inhabitants were termed 
deserters it is not easy to conceive. And, in addition to these, 
many others would have followed in quick succession, until they 
overlooked the Straits of Magellan, had not a certain cacique come 

* Dobrizhoffer did not find them of remarkable stature. 



526 MISSIONS ABANDONED. 

finally to the reasonable conclusion that his territory and his power 
were being alike too rapidly encroached upon. Cangapol was the 
great cacique. He planned a dark conspiracy against the few and 
defenseless missions that lay within his reach. Gathering around 
him all his warriors and such as were willing to follow him to 
battle, he led them to a murderous assault of the Reduction de 
los Desamparados. Emboldened by unlooked-for success in this 
quarter, he pushed on to the next mission and compelled it to 
share a similar fate. Though all his preparations and movements 
had been anticipated by Father Strobl — who made the most earnest 
entreaties to Buenos Ayres for military succor, yet only to suffer 
a sad disappointment in the reception of any such — his advance 
upon Concepcion was not in the least impeded. And so, ravag- 
ing the country, he approached this flourishing mission. The fa- 
thers were without difficulty driven from this their last retreat, 
and Cangapol resumed his swslj. The abandonment of Concep- 
cion in 1753 was not long in being followed up by the total ex- 
pulsion of the Jesuit order from Spanish and Portuguese territories. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

Stability of the Christian Church. — Contest for the Governorship of Asuncion. — 
Antequera. — Expulsion of the Jesuits. — Defeat of Don Balthazar Garcia Rosas. — 
Zavala. — Flight of Antequera, his Arrest and Execution. — Appointment of Don 
John deBarua. — Return of the Jesuits. —Rebellion in Paraguay. — Communeros 
andContrabandos. — A President. — Another Expulsion of the Jesuits. — Don Man- 
uel de Ruiloba, Governor of Asuncion. — A Defender. — Zavala enters Asuncion. 
— Contest at the Court of Madrid. — Triumph of the Jesuits. — Their exclusive 
Policy. — Suspicions revived. — The Contest renewed. — Sebastian Carvalho, Mar- 
quis of Pombal. — The boundary Line. — Attempt to assassinate King Joseph. — 
Expulsion of the Order from Portugal and France. — Squillaci.- — Charles III. — 
Aranda. — The Jesuits driven from Spain. — A Cruise at Sea. — Final Landing at 
Corsica. — Letter of the Pope. — Bucareli. — Viceroy of Buenos Ayres, his Mes- 
sengers and Dispatches. — Plans thwarted. — Sudden Arrest of the Fathers. — 
Destruction of the Cordova Library. — Memorial of the Indians in behalf of the 
Order. — Alarms of the Viceroy. — Expedition against the Parana and Uruguay 
Reductions. — The Fathers shipped for Europe. — Fate of the Missions. 

We left the Jesuits in favor and in power at Asuncion, their 
missions along the Parana and Uruguay victorious at last in their 
bloody strifes with the Mamelucos, and in the enjoyment of a 
peace that promised to be enduring. The seventeenth century 
glided out with nothing to disturb the calm of their existence. 



THE JESUITS IN LA PLATA. 527 

A rigid observance of each, day's routine faltered not for a mo- 
ment. Fathers passed away and their posts were filled as if 
the vacancies had never taken place, so semblant were they in 
life, thought, and action. ISTo one Jesuit differed from another. 
Nearly the whole Indian population east of the Paraguay was 
now included within the reductions, lay and Jesuitic, and the 
Christian republic had grown into an imposing fabric. The ris- 
ing generation of Indians, impressed with a profound sense of 
gratitude for the temporal and spiritual benefits to which Jesuit 
teaching had advanced them, contemplated, without doubt, its 
permanency. Time had perfected that peculiar development to 
which the missionary desired to bring the Indian mind. The 
system was complete and matured after passing through the 
ordeal of a century's trial, and commanded the admiration as 
well as the restless attention of the world. We meet with no 
serious revulsion until the year 1723 ; it is then that old wran- 
glings are renewed, and we trace them as usual to a dispute for 
the governorship or the exercise of power. Don Joseph de An- 
tequera and Don Diego de los Reyes are the contending parties. 
The Jesuits, seemingly unable as ever to keep aloof from these 
disturbances, are either forced or enter voluntarily into the con- 
test, so that they soon find themselves engaged in entanglements 
and perplexities from which the experience gained in the past 
career of Don Bernardin de Cardenas should have saved them. 
Don Diego, whose cause seems to have been just, found sympathy 
among the fathers. Each champion had his claims, the merit 
thereof, however, effecting little against him who could best wield 
his sword and best pay his followers, Antequera had this good 
fortune. He attempted, though unsuccessfully, to seize upon his 
opponent's person in Asuncion, and then pursued him through 
every reduction by which the fugitive successively passed ; but 
the faithful Indians baffled his every step. In return for the 
fruitlessness of this expedition, he vented his angry spirit against 
the Jesuits of the city, believing that he discovered in them a very 
serious obstacle to his ambitious designs. He determined upon 
their expulsion from Asuncion ; three hours' notice was regarded 
by some as too much for the victims ; but the governor, in his 
clemency, insisted on this point. In three hours, therefore, the 
order was once more driven from the capital, not with the violence 
applied upon a former occasion, but with equal certainty of their 
departure. 



528 ANTEQUEKA. 

Antequera was a bold and intractable character. Positive in- 
structions from the viceroy had been most unpardonably disre- 
garded by him, and orders to lay down his power as Governor of 
Asuncion met with sovereign contempt. Confidently trusting in 
the support he found immediately around him, he drew upon him- 
self the ultima ratio of force. Don Balthazar Garcia Eosas, ap- 
pointed by the Viceroy of Peru to the duty of quelling the rebel- 
lion in Paraguay and removing its present chief magistrate, as- 
sembled for this purpose a Spanish force and several thousand 
reduction Indians. With these he quietly crossed the Tibiquari, 
when, suddenly meeting Antequera at the head of three thousand 
men, he was completely routed and forced back into the mission 
territory. The victorious governor next proceeded to inflict sum- 
mary punishment upon the missionaries and their reductions. 
He began the work of destruction by attacking several of the 
towns in the neighborhood of the city, when he was checked by 
the report that five thousand natives were advancing upon him, 
and wisely retreated to Asuncion, as his force was inconsiderable. 
The Guarani were no longer the ill-clad, unarmed, unwarlike, 
persecuted natives of former days. Now organized into well- 
trained, well-armed bodies, and led by not unskillful officers, it 
required consideration before engaging under the disadvantage 
of such great numerical inferiority. 

The governor was as resolved as ever, notwithstanding this lit- 
tle reverse, in his purpose of opposing any force sent against him, 
and the triumphal greetings that awaited him on his return to 
Asuncion still farther excited his ambition. Great was the sur- 
prise when the news of these events reached Lima. The Jesuits 
banished, Don Balthazar beaten, and Paraguay in open rebellion : 
here was a rapid succession of difficulties that fell with the force 
of a united blow upon the Audience of Charcas and the viceroy. 
Orders were immediately forwarded to Zavala, Governor of Bue- 
nos Ayres, to march upon Asuncion, seize Antequera, and punish 
the rebels accordingly as they deserved. 

Zavala left Buenos Ayres in January of 1725, and entered 
Asuncion in April of the same year. Antequera and his accom- 
plices had taken the safe course of abandoning the city in good 
time, so that every thing was peaceably secured. By by-roads 
and almost alone the ex-governor found his way to Cordova, 
where he shortly learned that a price had been set upon his per- 
son by the Audience of Charcas. He proceeded secretly to La 



DEATH OF ANTEQTJEEA. 529 

Plata, was arrested, brought before the Audience, found guilty, 
and after a short imprisonment dispatched under guard to Lima, 
where he was closely confined. The viceroy, the Marquis del 
Fuerte, anxious to rid himself of the responsibility of bringing his 
prisoner to trial, wrote to Spain that he might be conveyed thith- 
er. The king, however, commanded that he should be tried 
where he was, and if found guilty executed as a rebel. Ante- 
quera was consequently brought before the Audience of Lima. 
His trial, lasting several years, excited much interest ; the charges 
against him were gross and undeniable, but he had the cheering 
sympathies of the people. A commissioner was dispatched to 
Asuncion to secure all possible evidence either in his favor or 
against him, and this evidence sealed the fate of the unfortunate 
governor. He was found guilty of high treason by the Audience, 
and was sentenced to be taken from prison clothed in a cloak and 
hood, placed upon a horse caparisoned in black, and, preceded by 
a herald, whose duty it was to proclaim the crimes of which the 
condemned had been convicted, to be thus conducted to the great 
square, there to be executed on a scaffold by the side of a lower 
one on which his accomplice, Don John de Mena, was to be stran- 
gled.* 

This announcement roused the people of Lima. The condemn- 
ed rebel, on leaving his prison on the 5th of July, 1731, found 
himself surrounded by a devoted and enthusiastic populace, mad- 
dened at the sentence that had been passed upon him. They 
thronged the streets, the balconies, and windows. Cries of " Mer- 
cy ! mercy !" were mingled with the more threatening sounds of 
"Injustice! injustice!" The herald, in the midst of the tumult, 
delivered his proclamation, but it produced no effect. Even the 
appearance of a body of soldiers and horsemen failed to appease the 
tumult. There were fears of. the prisoner being released, when 
the viceroy, attended by a guard, rode to the spot ; his presence 
only infuriated the people the more. He retorted fiercely by an 
order to fire upon the prisoner. Antequera fell dead, and it was 
supposed that the two friars who attended him perished similarly 
by the volley. In regard to this Charlevoix introduces a remark 
rather singular for its uningenuity: "Two of the religious who 
assisted the criminal might have fallen (from their horses) through 
fear, and been afterward trampled to. death." Antequera's body 
was placed upon the scaffold and his head dissevered. ' More than 

* Charlevoix, book ii., p. 260. 

34 



530 KETUKN OF THE JESUITS. 

once lie had rebelled against the highest authority in Spanish 
America, and according to the laws of the day, met with a de- 
serving fate ; but it wonld be difficult to discover any thing more 
reprehensible in his conduct than in that of Bishop Cardenas. 
Both had neglected the viceroy's orders, and opposed those sent 
to enforce them; both had expelled the Jesuits. Cardenas, in- 
deed, was less considerate than Antequera, for he seized upon 
both the temporal and the spiritual power of the province. The 
governor paid the penalty with his head ; the bishop was even 
honored by the Pope with a removal of the censures that had 
been at first imposed upon him. 

Zavala did not remain longer at Asuncion than was necessary 
for the purpose of appointing a governor : his choice fell upon 
Don John de Baru'a. 

A marked policy is observable in the course of every Governor 
of Asuncion — to favor the Jesuits or oppose them. The sequel 
to the many contests for governorship was either ill treatment of 
the order and their expulsion from the city, or a still greater en- 
largement of their power. One commotion confiscated all their 
property and reduced them to beggary, the next gave them com- 
plete control over the affairs of the province.. We might suppose 
that the flight of Antequera would be followed by their restora- 
tion ; but the disposition of Barua toward them was not friendly, 
and he avoided, as best he could, the viceroy's instructions to that 
effect, until a more peremptory command put an end to his inde- 
cision. The Jesuits must return to Asuncion, and with all the 
honors and marks of respect due to that distinguished order. It 
was in accordance with these instructions that, in March of 1728, 
the whole military force of Asuncion was drilled early in the 
morning of the 18th, and marched out of the city, followed by the 
governor, bishop, the chief officers of the government, and an at- 
tendant cavalcade of horsemen, on their way to welcome the fa- 
thers, at a distance of twelve miles, and escort them back to their 
college. The two parties re-entered the city under salutes ; and 
prayers and Te Deums completed the excitement of the day. 

We pass rapidly from this act of peace to another of trouble. 
The people of Paraguay were growing each day more restless. 
We begin already to discover, at the end of a long succession of tu- 
mults and popular commotions, faintly depicted, a future attempt 
to doff the' control of a power beyond the Paraguay and Parana. 
In 1730 matters were brought to a climax. Barua's governorship 



COMMUNEROS AND CONTRABANDOS. 531 

was only intended to be temporary, and his removal was followed 
by the appointment of D. Ignatius Saroeta. The new governor 
met with open opposition in the city, and hopelessly abandoned 
it after a very short visit. A declared rebellion rose throughout 
the country ; the will of the people was overtly preached to be 
paramount to that of the king; they must have a ruler suited 
to their own views. Two parties, Communeros and Contrabandos, 
the former for the people, the latter for the king, now distracted 
the country with their opposing arms. Barua, in the mean time, 
thought it best to "be not too bold." Wily enough to publicly 
reprimand the disturbers of the peace, he adapted a very different 
tone in his private intercourse with them, and secretly seconded 
all their measures so long as they did not directly aim at the es- 
tablishment of an independent power. Brought to this point, he 
hesitated, and being unwilling to endanger his life by such ex- 
treme action, he took the safe course of resigning. 

After deposing all the king's officers, and throwing many into 
prison, the Communeros bethought themselves of some head to 
their government. A junta was formed, and, having grown some- 
what weary of the title of governor, a president was Chosen to 
preside over that body. The first-elected chief was Don Josef 
Lewis de Barreyro, who, having shown himself to incline to the 
Contrabandos and the service of the king, was speedily disposed 
of, that a stauncher republican might be put in his place. A wild 
ferment followed the news of Antequera's death, which was re- 
ceived about this time. If Antequera were a rebel, so were all 
the actors in the present movement rebels ; they, too, if captured, 
must necessarily perish on the scaffold, and with this fear they 
grew strong in their rebellion. This feeling foreshadowed an- 
other attack upon the Jesuits. Antequera was the arch-enemy 
of Loyola's order, so the Communeros also became violent in their 
opposition, and quickly decided upon their expulsion. In 1732 
the college was attacked, its inmates driven out and the building 
pillaged. Once more the fathers mournfully plodded their weary 
way to the nearest missions. 

Soon an alarm spread to the reductions that those nearest to 
Asuncion were in danger. They presented at this period quite a 
bellicose aspect, for the fathers had kept in the field for some time 
past a standing army of several thousand natives, in daily ex- 
pectation of coming in contact with the Communeros. As a 
guard to the frontier missions, seven thousand men were sta- 



532 NEW TROUBLES. 

tioned on the Tibiquari, prepared for any emergency. They 
were well armed, well equiped, and sufficiently experienced to 
render them not a little formidable. But the appointment of Don 
Manuel de Euiloba to the governorship of Asuncion somewhat 
abated this military uproar and painful suspense. Well aware, 
however, that he would require considerable force to establish his 
authority, or even enter that volcanic city, he sought successfully 
this assistance among the Jesuit missions, and on the banks of the 
Aguapay found encamped a large and well-organized body of In- 
dians ready to act at his command. First, and wisely, making 
overtures to the rebel authorities, with the hope of settling the dis- 
pute in a peaceable manner, he was met by them at the Tibiquari, 
and to his great astonishment received assurances of their willing 
obedience. 

A few days' journey brought him to the capital, where he took 
up his residence in the governor's house ; but from that moment 
affairs presented a different aspect. In an attempt to disband the 
Communeros and quench the independent spirit of parties that 
raged throughout the city, he was most hopelessly foiled ; resist- 
ed, too, in other measures, abandoned by those in whom he had 
been led to place the greatest confidence at the most critical mo- 
ment, his gubernatorial existence soon drew to a close. 

The removal of the Junta, or General Junta, was the work of 
a day ; the title of President being changed to that of Defender. 
Grown bolder than ever, the Communeros essayed to bring the 
king's party to terms by a sweeping confiscation of all their prop- 
erty ; they then proceeded to inflict a similar punishment upon 
the Jesuits. Finally, in order to have the fathers and their mis- 
sions at a safer distance, they forced the Defender to sign an edict 
which imposed upon the Jesuits the obligation of removing all 
their reductions to the other side of the river. The people of 
Asuncion, too obstinate to retreat, looked forward with uncon- 
cerned boldness to an open rupture with the king's force, and 
Zavala was not slow in making them feel its power. His many 
years of faithful services had been lately rewarded by an appoint- 
ment to the presidency of Charcas, but before entering upon his 
new duties he proceeded to restore peace and order in this long- 
troubled and disordered province. He was clement where clem- 
ency could be of avail ; but upon this occasion saw that severe 
and forcible measures alone would enable him to accomplish his 
object. Strong garrisons were placed along the frontier of Para- 



INTRIGUES IN SPAIN. 533 

guay, in addition to a considerable force stationed on the Tibiqua- 
ri, the Rubicon that had so often separated the rebels Of Asuncion 
from the king's good subjects of Buenos Ay res and the missions. 

The Communeros made a desperate effort to raise an adequate 
opposing force. Scouring the country they forced Indians and 
Spaniards alike to take up arms ; the jails were opened that their 
inmates might be enlisted into the new army, but all to no pur- 
pose. Neither in numbers or efficiency could they match with 
the cautious governor of Buenos Ayres. In every fight and skir- 
mish they were unsuccessful. Zavala entered the city in triumph. 
It would seem needless to add that the Jesuits, amid Te Deums 
and church celebrations, returned to their college, which, strange 
to say, escaped the general demolition of property. 

Finally, after passing through this ordeal of trials and adver- 
sities, of a triumph here and a defeat there, the gladdening beams 
of good fortune shone once more upon the Jesuits and their mis- 
sions. Their usually well cultivated fields, neglected during those 
two or three years of alarm and contest with the Communeros, 
waved and bloomed as ever. The natives, long drilled to arms 
and kept on the alert, returned to their more peaceful occupations, 
and never had they appeared to enjoy greater security from with- 
out or within. But the enemy had only changed his field of ac- 
tion. Baffled in Paraguay and driven from Asuncion, the nest of 
factious disturbances, they had recourse to a more subtle mode of 
procedure at the court of Madrid. The seed of Jesuit influence 
and power, which, in the middle of the sixteenth century, had been 
planted in Spanish America, was now the expanded and over- 
shadowing growth of a century, nipped, it is true, from time to 
time, by the frosts of Spanish jealousy, or stunted by the inhuman 
depredations of Portuguese bandits, but alive and strong withal. 
That independence and isolation from outside social intercourse 
as well as government control which successive Spanish monarchs 
had sanctioned and decreed rendered the Jesuits, in their missions 
at least, safe from any force that could be brought against them 
on this side of the waters. To strike then at the very root of the 
institution it was necessary to poison the king's ear, the only su- 
preme authority recognized by the Paraguay missions. The order 
bore the burden of too long a catalogue of enemies to escape the 
defamatory pamphlets and libelous writings, under every form, 
that soon swarmed throughout the continent, but particularly in 
Spain. Men who had little or no knowledge of the state and con- 



534 LETTER OF PHILIP V. 

dition of the missionary reductions, dotted down the grossest 
misrepresentations. Jesuit ambition, Jesuit aspirations, Jesuit dis- 
loyalty and dishonesty were penned in every shape in all the con- 
ceits of language. As David said of himself, it was not one sin 
they had committed, but they were " shapen in iniquity." It 
would be dangerous to the Spanish empire to allow the existence 
of so continually spreading and grasping an independency. The 
establishment of a hierocracy upon the American continent was 
contemplated with horror and alarm. Essays, poems, petitions, 
and letters inflamed all minds for the contest. The Jesuits must 
be removed to avert the like startling prospects that were fore- 
shadowed in a thousand forms. Barua played an important part 
in this literary drama. He wrote much in favor of the anti- Jes- 
uit party, but was ably answered by Father D Aguilar — a defense* 
that met with the approbation of Philip V., who evinced neither 
enmity for nor fear of the Jesuits. He was unmoved by the viru- 
lent antagonism of many in high authority, and, as a manifestation 
of kindly feelings for the missionaries and his Indian subjects, took 
occasion to write them a most approving letter. The following 
occurs in it : 

" In fine, as it is easy to see by all the pieces already referred 
to, and by other ancient and modern papers which have been ex- 
amined in my council with all the attention an affair of this im- 
portance required, that I have not in any part of my dominions 
vassals who better acknowledge my sovereignty, the duties of the 
vassalage due to me and my royal patronage, or among whom civil 
and ecclesiastical jurisdiction is better established, as evidently ap- 
pears by the continual visits of bishops and governors ; or who 
pay a blinder obedience to my orders * * * * I have re- 
solved to address a schedule to the Provincial to let him know 
what pleasure it gives me to see the calumnies and impostures of 
Aldimate and Barua refuted by so many justifications," etc.f 

Thus, the attacks of their enemies in Spain had, so far, availed 
nothing against them. In the year 1743 the missions were in the 
enjoyment of unparalleled prosperity and power. Jesuit suprem- 

* Vol. ii., book 13. This defense of Father D' Aguilar fell into the hands of Don 
Cajctan Buoncompagni, Duke of Sota, a Neapolitan, and was carried by him to 
Italy. He presented it to Muratori, and thus gave rise to a work from that famous 
antiquarian chronicler entitled, "II Christianesimo felice nelle missioni, des padri 
dclla compagnia de Jesu nel Paraguay." — Charlevoix, vol. ii., p. 335. 

t Charlevoix, vol. ii., p. 360-1. The translation of Charlevoix's important work 
is by no means an elegant one. 



STATISTICS OF THE MISSIONS. 535 

acy was firmly established in South America and recognized by 
the world. With the right, they were otherwise quite competent 
to hold this sway ; they were perfectly independent in possessing 
every species of manufacture or produce which might be of use or 
necessity to the reductions, and they were enabled to adopt such 
exclusive policy as would best serve their own interests. They 
availed themselves of this advantage, as we shall now see. 

We have, from several authorities,* statistics of the population 
of the missions from 1780 to 1740. That of the missions of the 
Parana and Uruguay amounted to 140,000 Christian souls. The 
population of the Chiquitos reductions was estimated at 24,000. 
Others among the Abipones, the Pampas Indians of Patagonia, 
and in the Province of Tarija, added 6000, if not more, to this 
number. Don Joseph de Peralto, Bishop of Buenos Ayres, tells 
us that they could raise an army of from twelve to fourteen thou- 
sand men, provided with horses, arms, and ammunition, ready to 
act at any time and in any service. Nearly that number had been 
for a long time kept on a war footing, as we have seen, on account 
of the fears the Communeros inspired. The Tibiquari and the 
frontier had been for years more or less vigilantly guarded. There 
was, consequently, little ingress or egress into or from the mission 
territory; indeed, visits to the reductions were almost entirely 
suspended in consequence of the dangers that menaced them. 
That is the tone of Jesuit writings ; but Azara pretends to have 
obtained a farther insight into the state of the country. 

According to him there resounded throughout the missions a 
louder din of warlike preparation. Upon every road ditches were 
dug and strong palisades erected to prevent any, unprovided with 
a special permit, from passing in or out. The whole boundary of 
Missiones was girt with these defenses ; while at the entrance to 
each town a gate and a guard obstructed all unlawful passage. 
The natives were not allowed to pass from one reduction to an- 
other, unless in carrying orders or performing some special duty : 
the most restricted intercourse was enforced. At the same time, 
not only were Spanish merchants and other interested persons 
forbidden entrance into this sacred land, but requests from bish- 
ops and governors to visit it repeatedly declined. Antequera sub- 
mitted this charge against the Jesuits when on his trial, and it had 
its weight : at present there was no doubt of it. Moreover, the 
missionaries had been of late providing themselves with an unu- 

* Dobrizhoffer, Aguilar, Charlevoix, etc., etc. 



536 DECLINE OE THE JESUITS. 

sual supply of field-pieces, muskets, and ammunition, for defense, 
it was said, against hostile Indians.* These movements revived 
the old suspicions of a desire to establish an independent power. 
The tale was again wafted across the Atlantic ; the strife was re- 
newed at the court of Madrid, but this time with very different 
success. Father Eobago, confessor to the king, writes to his 
brothers in South America "that the complaints received against 
them at the court were so numerous and of so grave a character 
that he had found it impossible to prevent the effect they pro- 
duced, although he had the king, whose confessor he was, at his 
complete control."f 

But neither Spain, France, nor Austria were destined to be the 
first and chief instigators toward active and violent measures 
against the Jesuit order. Its influence had diminished beyond a 
hope of recovery at the respective courts of each of those nations ; 
but an initiatory movement for expelling Loyola's sons, or entire^ 
ly suppressing the institution, appalled the boldest. It was Portu- 
gal that first gave birth to a man of sufficient nerve to take a step 
beyond the writing of " Provinciales" — to strangle the victim with 
iron grip, and not torture it to a slow and lingering death. Se- 
bastian Carvalho, Marquis of Pombal, with all his cruelty, vindic- 
tiveness, jealousy, avarice, and ambition, had the courage, the pa- 
tience, the energy, the subtlety, and combination of talent requisite 
for a project so unprecedented, and, to all appearances, fraught 
with such perils. After his return from a mission to London he 
was sent to Vienna to settle, if possible, the difficulties that had 
arisen between Maria Theresa and the Pope with regard to the 
patriarchate of Aquilejia. "Here," says Cardinal Pacca, "in the 
focus of Protestantism, he learned to hate the Church and the re- 
ligious order." Whether or not he imbibed at the court of Vien- 
na the antipathies or prejudices that there prevailed, he was in.no 
wise actuated by them alone. For two centuries had the Jesuits 
governed Portugal. From the time they entered the country 
they instructed at the University of Coimbra, drew up the tariff- 
bills, presided in the king's council, and established inquisitions 
on the ruins of older ones : and though they may have carried the 

* Azara, vol. ii., chap, xiii., French edition. Don Antonio d'Ulloa mentions 
none of the facts here gathered from Azara. He has, however, omitted many oth- 
er interesting and important details, so that credit may be given to this account of 
Azara, as he had every means of acquiring correct information. 

t Azara, vol. ii., chap, xiii., p. 247. 



EXPULSION FEOM PORTUGAL. 537 

Portuguese name into the heart of China, Portugal declined under 
their rule. Pombal had observed and studied their institution 
and sifted their measures. He owed his rise and place to the 
Jesuits ; so that, when he turned against them, it was policy, and 
not personal feeling, that dictated the course. He thought he saw 
in their removal the revival of Portugal's energies, the opening of 
her long-closed channels. Pombal was king in all but name ; he 
needed but the necessary pretexts to make the move that agitated 
all Europe and extended to the western hemisphere. His first 
pretext for assuming this defiant attitude toward Kome arose from 
an incident that transpired on this side of the Atlantic. The bound- 
ary between the Spanish and Portuguese possessions in South 
America had never been well defined. Disputes had on several 
occasions arisen as to its course ; but in 1751 the two nations came 
to a mutual understanding ; the long-disputed colony of Nova 
Colonia was to be retained by Spain, and the Uruguay missions 
in return attached to Brazil. Commissioners were sent out to ar- 
range the matter satisfactorily, but soon found that their decision, 
unaccompanied by the sanction of the missionaries, had been too 
hastily made. Indeed, the Jesuits most peremptorily declined sub- 
mitting to any such bartering, in which their interests were so great- 
ly concerned and so liable to injury. Nothing, then, was effected, 
since the boundary line was disputed by the missions. Pombal 
seized upon this opportunity to represent the fathers in an odious 
light at the Pontifical See, and to threaten them for their disobedi- 
ence. He did not wait long for the consummation of his design 
against them. The unsuccessful attempt to assassinate King Jo- 
seph, a few years afterward, in which the Jesuits were found to be 
implicated, sealed the fate of Loyola's order in Portugal. In 1759 
the marquis addressed Clement XIII. a letter to inform him that 
the Portuguese government had decided upon the total expulsion 
of the Jesuits from the country, and, without waiting for an answer 
from his Holiness, most precipitately landed them at Civita Yec- 
chia — an expensive donation to the Church. 

Pombal immediately entered into negotiation with all the Eu- 
ropean courts. France was the first to follow in his footsteps. 
Choiseul, however, had an aversion for the Portuguese minister, 
and probably did not lead Louis XY., as usual, in this matter. 
On the contrary, in his correspondence he says : " Your Majesty 
knows well, although it has been said' I have labored for the ex- 
pulsion of the Jesuits, that neither at home or abroad, in public 



538 FRANCE AND SPAIN. 

or private life, have I ever taken any steps to effect this object."* 
Could an original idea have emanated from the brain of the French 
monarch ? Was the expulsion of the Jesuits his own decree ? * It 
is most probable that he acted under the influence and at the in- 
stance of Madame de Pompadour, who, it will be remembered, 
found, more than once, difficulty in obtaining a Jesuit confessor so 
long as she should remain in the king's household. It was in 
1764 that this suppression took place throughout France. Louis 
pronounced an obituary notice, which has been recorded. It 
would have been gratifying to him to have seen Father Perisseau 
made an abbot ! Choiseul, who, after this event, thought it best 
that the Jesuits should exist in France or not exist at all — sint 
ut stmt, aid non sint — was the first to move in the secularization 
of the whole body. But it is in Spain and the Spanish monarch 
that we are most concerned. 

Charles III. occupied at this time the Spanish throne. On his 
removal from Naples he caused Squillaci, a Neapolitan, to ac- 
company him, and soon elevated this favorite to the j)ost of prime 
minister. Squillaci, however, was not popular ; he succeeded only 
in making himself odious to the Spaniards. Arrogant and over- 
bearing, he failed entirely to conciliate the high-spirited and ill- 
brooking people he was called upon to govern. His attempt to 
suppress the fashion of flapped hats and long cloaks, so prevalent 
at that time throughout Spain, occasioned a popular revolt that 
threw the Spanish capital into a state of wild excitement. Squil- 
laci was forced to flee the city, and the Walloon Guards, ordered 
out to quell the commotion, were either cut to pieces or complete- 
ly routed. The king appeared in person and addressed his sub- 
jects ; he promised to remove the much-hated minister ; he was 
willing to make every reasonable concession ; but nothing could 
restore the peace until a few Jesuits, appearing in the midst of 
this troubled mass of people, exhorted them to calm their pas- 
sions and disperse to their homes. 

It was strange indeed that none but these fathers should have 
been able to quell this commotion at Madrid. Could they have 
possibly occasioned the tumult? "Charles thought so, and did 
not forget it," says Saint Priest. Probably they only sought to re- 
move the Neapolitan favorite — monopolizer of the king's thoughts 
and counsel — and once more force themselves into those strong- 
holds around the throne which had on previous occasions given 

* Saint Priest, Chute dcs Jesuites, p. 82. Paris, 1844. 



EXPULSION FEOM SPAIN. 539 

them such, weight and control in the 'affairs of the nation. But 
the order had passed the culmination of its power in Spain ; it 
was no longer to furnish keepers of the king's conscience, though 
it seemed yet to possess sufficient vitality to stem the current of 
prejudice and misfortune that was setting against it. Their ex- 
pulsion in 1759 from Portugal, and in 1764 from France, may 
have occasioned no great surprise, but news of a similar move- 
ment in Spain was startling beyond all conception. The Jesuits 
imagined that, though persecuted by Pombal and Louis, they 
might at least find a safe retreat under the government of the 
good and pious Charles, the most cherished son of the Pope; 
but the Spanish monarch had found them, as he remarked to the 
French embassador, "a dangerous body;" he might banish them, 
and still be a good Catholic. Aranda, his minister, thought like- 
wise, and counseled immediate and energetic action. On the 27th 
of February, 1767, about a year after the "hat revolt," Charles 
issued a decree banishing the Jesuits from all his dominions, never 
to return, nor even hold intercourse by letter or otherwise with 
his people. The colleges were surrounded at midnight ; the bells 
secured; each brother allowed his breviary, linen, chocolate, 
snuff, and money ; then, surrounded by an escort of dragoons, 
they were conducted to the coast and as speedily shipped. They 
sailed for Italy. Father Eicci, general of the order, determined 
not to receive his brothers. Charles insisted; but powder and 
shot soon drove them from Civita Yecchia. They put to sea 
again, touching at Leghorn and Genoa, where the same inhospi- 
table reception awaited them. Thus for six months were upward 
of six thousand Jesuits — among them many men of worth and 
learning — tossed about the Mediterranean, with every prospect of 
a continuous sea-faring life. Finally, after much dispute, they 
were permitted to land in Corsica, and there subsisted as best 
they could. A month after the issuing of the decree of expulsion 
Charles wrote to the Pope : 

" Most Holy Father,— Your Holiness is well aware that the first duty 
of a sovereign is to watch over the peace and preservation of his state, and 
provide for the good government and tranquillity of his subjects. In com- 
pliance with this principle I have been under the imperious necessity of re- 
solving upon the immediate expulsion of all the Jesuits who are established 
in my kingdom and dominions, and to send them to the States of the Church, 
under the immediate, wise, and holy direction of your most holy beatitude, 
most worthy father and master of all faithful. 



540 FEELINGS OF THE POPE. 

" I should fall under the obloquy of throwing a heavy charge upon the 
Apostolic Privy Council, by obliging it to exhaust its treasures in the sup- 
porting of those poor Jesuits who happen to have been my vassals, had I not 
made previous provision, as I have, for the payment to each individual of a 
sum sufficient to maintain him for life. 

" On such understanding I pray your Holiness to view this my determin- 
ation simply as an indispensable step of political economy, taken only after 
mature examination and the most profound reflection. 

" Doing me the justice to believe this, as I pray you will, your Holiness 
will surely grant your holy and apostolic benediction on this measure as well 
as on all my actions which have for their object, in the same way, the pro- 
motion of the honor and glory of Grod. YO EL KEY."* 

This letter could have brought but one consolation to Clement 
XIII., and that was the pecuniary provision it announced. In- 
deed he shed many a bitter tear over this decision of one to whom 
he writes, " To our dearest son in Jesus Christ, health and apos- 
tolic benediction." The blow fell heavily upon him in his old 
age. In his answer to Charles he says : 

" Is it the Catholic Charles HI., whom we so much love, that is to fill to 
the brim the cup of our bitter afflictions, to overwhelm our unhappy old age 
with grief and tears, and finally precipitate us into the tomb ?"f 

Then, in an altogether different strain : 

" We say it in the presence of Grod and man that the body, the institu- 
tion, the spirit of the Company of Jesus is absolutely innocent, and not only 
innocent, but that it is pious, it is useful, it is holy ; and all this whether 
considered with reference to its laws, to its maxims, or to its objects. Those 
who have attempted to detract from its merits have only called down upon 
their lies and contradictions the contempt and detestation of all good and 
impartial men." 

Without digressing farther, it would seem proper to turn our 
particular attention to the immediate effects and consequences of 
this suppression throughout Spanish America. We have just 
seen that Pombal made the opposition of the missionaries to the 
boundary treaty of 1751 one of his chief grounds of complaint to 
the Pope. Skeptic minds, who never study the substance and 
truth of any thing, had been for years looking forward to the self- 
announced independence of the Christian republic on the Parana 
and Uruguay. Their power and prosperity had, moreover, aroused 
the suspicions of even sensible minds. The council of Charles 

* Robertson's Letters from Paraguay, taken from MSS. of Sir Woodbine Parrish. 
t Ibid. 



PEOCEEDINGS IN AMERICA. 541 

III., to whom was referred the Pope's letter, remark in their re- 
port : " It is proven against them by the undeniable testimony of 
their own papers* that in Paraguay they took the field with or- 
ganized armies to oppose themselves to the crown ; and now at 
this very time have they not been in Spain endeavoring to change 
the whole government, to modify it according to their own pleas- 
ure, and to promulgate and put into practice doctrines the most 
horrible ?" Whatever credit may be attached to this declaration 
it was sufficient to initiate proceedings against these disloyal sub- 
jects and promulgators of horrid doctrines. 

Bucareli was Viceroy of Buenos Ayres at this important period. 
He seems to have entertained a most lively sense of the import- 
ance and virtual power of the Jesuits on the South American con- 
tinent. His whole conception of one of these religious amounted 
to a disloyal vassal and a dangerous rebel watching for the mo- 
ment of his independence ; and he shaped his conduct toward him 
as if dealing with a warlike and treacherous Chana or Abipone. 
He imagined the wealth of mines to' be somewhere concealed in 
the missions, and a standing army of natives, furnished with all 
the implements of war, ever on the alert to protect it. The meas- 
ures he took for the suppression of the order conformed perfectly 
with the alarming state of his mind. 

On the 7th of June, 1767, the Prince, ship of war, arrived at 
Buenos Ayres, conveying to the viceroy notice of King Charles's 
decree. He was instructed to carry his orders into effect with the 
greatest secrecy, and so arrange his plans that the arrestation 
might take place simultaneously over as great a space of country 
as possible. Aranda thought, as Bucareli, that the Jesuits would 
not yield peaceably, and hence a union of their missions and col- 
leges into one collective force must at least be prevented. Had 
the missionaries, for it was in their power notwithstanding this 
caution, taken some such steps toward the united action of the 
whole body, the contest might have proved long and doubtful. 
The viceroy, pursuant to these instructions, forwarded his mes- 
sengers to the farthest limits of the vast territory committed to his 
administration. His dispatches were solemn and ponderous docu- 
ments, heavily sealed, and mysterious, for they were not to be 
opened until the 21st of July. Thus at one and the same time 
and hour this sudden blow was to fall upon every member of the 

* These are mysterious papers, and should be brought to light if in actual exist- 
ence. 



542 ARRESTS IN BUENOS AYRES. 

order. The colleges of Cordova, of Tucuman, and Asuncion were 
to be surrounded at night, their inmates awakened, dragged forth, 
and dispatched in the darkness to Buenos Ayres. A hundred 
devoted missionaries, who had performed the religious duties of 
the day toward native but Christian populations, and, after the 
chanting of vespers throughout that broad Indian land, retired to 
their evening devotions and a quiet repose among a good and 
peaceful people that had, through the trials, labors, and self-denials 
of Jesuit brothers, been redeemed from their original rude and un- 
tutored state, were, at a moment of time, to be forced from their 
missions, and, ere conscious of their situation, speeded down the 
Parana to the general imprisonment at Buenos Ayres. 

Every village, highway, and by-road resounded day and night 
with the clattering advance of Bucareli's swift messengers. ' But 
these plans and directions which had so much engaged his restless 
and untiring zeal in an unworthy cause were now, by unforeseen 
events, partly frustrated. 

On the 3d day of July information was received at Buenos 
Ayres of the expulsion of the order from the Peninsula. Buca- 
reli, fearful that the news might spread, rouse the missions and the 
clergy, and, like the dragon's teeth, grow warriors in the Parana 
reductions, resolved not to wait for the nineteen days that had yet 
to elapse, but to immediately follow up the course that had been 
pursued on the other side of the waters. About midnight he held 
a consultation with his friends and advisers, and at an early hour 
in the morning, long before the sun arose, had dispatched his offi- 
cers and couriers to their respective duties. The fathers were to 
be unconditionally and indiscriminately arrested wherever they 
should chance to find them. Scouting parties were at the same 
time sent out to intercept all messengers and communications 
whatever, and the viceroy kept a stout body-guard around him- 
self ready to act at a moment's notice. His dreams of missionary 
wealth kept him fully reminded of the necessity of stringent in- 
structions concerning it. The goods and chattels of every Jesuit, 
the gold and silver decorations of the churches, the massive can- 
delabras and hidden treasures, if there were any, the paintings and 
statuary, must pass safely into his hands ; and he allowed three 
days for forwarding to the capital every thing of this description. 
With all this anxiety and foresight, could they under any circum- 
stances fail to come into his possession ? What if the riches and 
stores he had pictured to himself and others on both sides of the 



THE MISSION AT COKDOVA. 543 

Atlantic should never be realized? Such a thought creeping 
into his mind was sufficient to cause the rankest suspicions, which 
he located wherever the occasion rendered it most convenient. 
Many in consequence were thrown into prison or suffered severe- 
ly at his hands.* 

But the imaginary rapidity with which the work was to have 
been done soon subsided and gave place to a more just apprecia- 
tion of the difficult task assigned him. Not that there was any 
evidence of opposition to his orders' ; but great distances were to 
be gone over, the missions were to be tracked to their isolated po- 
sitions, broad rivers crossed, and huge forests traversed. This was 
not the work of a night, how dark soever. The couriers dispatch- 
ed in the night of the 2d of July effected but little. They arrest- 
ed a few missionaries here and there at no great distance from 
Buenos Ayres, and so terminated their labors. Bucareli seemed 
for a moment brought to stand, his activity paralyzed. Cordova, 
the Parana missions (the Chiquitos came within the jurisdiction 
of the Yiceroy of Peru), had not been reached ; time was passing, 
and the viceroy remained a prey to miserable disappointments 
and ill forebodings. At last, in the month of August, a body of 
troops headed by Don Ferdinando Fabro appeared on the heights 
of Cordova. They entered the city without resistance, plundered 
the college, the most important and learned institution in Spanish 
America, and made prisoners of all the fathers that came within 
their reach. To root out the heretic doctrines "King Charles's 
council had spoken of, they thought proper to destroy the famous 
library situated upon the Estancia de Santa Cataiina, the home 
of the historian Guevara. The most valuable works and rarest 
collection of manuscripts on the western continent were here irre- 
trievably lost in the promiscuous piles of printed and written mat- 
ter thrown up for destruction by Bucareli's illiterate soldiery, t 

-Though but few relics of this great library ever reached Buenos 
Ayres, there was no failure in forwarding every Jesuit that had 
been found. Two hundred and seventy-one fathers were now se- 
cured in that city. Bucareli, thinking he might dispense with 
them, shipped two hundred and twenty-two for Cadiz. Having 
done this, he fell into some repose, and took no farther measures 
until the Spring of 1768. 

We have no proofs, and doubtless, there are none, that would 

* Funes' Ensayo, book v., chap. 9. 

f lb. The second volume of Guevara's historv -was clestroved. 



544 MEMORIAL IN FAVOR OF THE JESUITS. 

lead us to credit the report often spread by Bucareli that the Jes- 
uits gave evidences of and were determined upon a stout resistance 
should the Spanish ever attempt to rob them of their missions. 
Much grieved, without question, they may have been, and peace- 
ful efforts to retain the hold they had in the Parana reductions may 
not have been neglected by them ; but this was all. A letter was 
now sent by the caciques and chief native officers of the missions 
to Bucareli, praying that the fathers might be retained. The Jes- 
uits are accused of being the authors of this document ; but, if 
true, Bucareli acted likewise subsequent to their expulsion. 

Translation of a Memorial addressed by the People of the Mission of 
San Luis to the Governor of Buenos Ayres, praying that the Jes- 
uits may remain among them instead of the Friars sent to replace 
them* 

« (I. H. S.) 
"God preserve your Excellency, say we, the Cabildo, and all the caciques 
and Indians, men, women, and children, of San Luis, as your Excellency is 
our father. The Corregidor Santiago Pindo and Don Pantaleon Cayuari, 
in their love for us, have written for certain birds which they desire we will 
send them for the king. We are very sorry not to have them to send, in- 
asmuch as they live where God made them, in the forests, and fly far away 
from us, so that we can not catch them. Withal we are the vassals of God 
and the king, and always desirous to fulfill the wishes of his ministers in 
what they desire of us. Have we not been three times as far as Colonia 
with our aid ? and do we not labor in order to pay tribute 1 And now we 
pray God that that best of birds, the Holy Ghost, may descend upon the 
king and enlighten him, and may the Holy Ghost preserve him. So, con- 
fiding in your Excellency, Senor Governor, our proper father, with all hu- 
mility and tears we beg that the sons of St. Ignatius, the fathers of the So- 
ciety of Jesus, may continue to live with us and remain always among us. 
This we beg your Excellency to supplicate the king for us for the love of 
God. All this people — men, women, and young persons, and especially the 
poor — pray for the same with tears in their eyes. 

" As for the friars and priests sent to replace them, we love them not. 
The Apostle St. Thomas,! the minister of God, so taught our forefathers in 
these same parts, for these friars and priests have no care for us. The sons 
of St. Ignatius, yes, they from the first took care of our forefathers, and 
taught them, and baptized them, and preserved them for God and the king ; 
but for these friars and priests, in no manner do we wish for them. 

* Sir Woodbine Parrish : Buenos Ayres from the Conquest, p. 2G7. 
f The natives firmly believed that St. Thomas had landed on the coast of Brazil 
and passed over to the Pacific. 



EFFECTS OF THE MEMORIAL. 545 

" The Fathers of the Society of Jesus know how to bear with our weak- 
nesses, and we are happy under them for God's sake and the king's. If 
your Excellency, good Senor Governor, will listen to our prayer and grant 
our request, we will pay larger tribute in the yerba caar nimi* 

" We are not slaves, and we desire to say that the Spanish custom is not 
to our liking — for every one to take care of himself, instead of assisting one 
another in their daily labors. This is the plain truth which we say to your 
Excellency, that it may be attended to : if it is not, this people, like the 
rest, will be lost. This to your Excellency, to the king, and to God— we 
shall go to the devil! and at the hour of our death where will be our 
help? 

" Our children, who are in the country and in the towns, when they re- 
turn and find not the sons of St. Ignatius, will flee away to the deserts and 
to the forests to do evil. Already it would seem that the people of St. 
Joaquim, St. Estanislaus, St. Ferdinand, and Tymbo, are lost. We know it 
well, and we say so to your Excellency ; neither can the Cabildos ever re- 
store these people for God and the king as they were. So, good governor, 
grant us what we ask, and may God help and keep you. This is what we 
say, in the name of the people of San Luis, this 28th of February, It 68. 
" Your humble servants and children." 

Here follow the signatures of the lord mayor, judges of the first 
and second court of the first and second brotherhood, four alder- 
men, secretary of the court in the name of forty-one caciques and 
others. 

This petition fell like a thunderbolt in the Council of Bucareli. 
The sensitive and timorous viceroy viewed it as the forerunner to 
some more violent remonstrance. He so wrote to Aranda. The 
pacific intention to which he had brought himself, of a simple re- 
call of the missionaries, was dissipated at the receipt of this gentle 
and loyal epistolary production. Failing heretofore to catch at 
the faintest ghmpse of rebellious opposition to the king's decree, 
he had ceased all warlike preparations for carrying it out; but 
this letter revealed to his distempered imagination an outbreak 
and consequent campaign of no small magnitude. Quiet, cau- 
tious, and circumspect as ever, the details of his present and fu- 
ture operations were incessantly considered ; he burdened his 
mind with the labors of a Sisyphus ; the world's weight rested 
upon his Atlas shoulders in this duty of expelling the Jesuits. 
Behind the shield of a numerous and well-provided native army 
he thought their lurked motives and. objects dark and disloyal. 
Unable himself to see through the impenetrable mystery that 

* An annual tribute was paid to the crown in verba or Paraguay tea. 

35 



546 A COUNTER MEMORIAL. 

hung around the missions, and consequently ill qualified to judge 
what action they might take in the coming imaginary death-strife, 
he provided for the worst. "We, after a century of time, impar- 
tial and disinterested, either for praise or censure, pass through 
these reductions, see and study the people, and fathom as we can 
whatever may have been the aims or intentions of their paternal 
and all-powerful guardians, but fail to discover the broodings of 
rebellion which the viceroy's gloomy letters depicted to the court 
of Madrid. We find a peaceful, Christian,, and loyal spirit resting 
upon a numerous and happy people, who paid their tribute to 
the king and revered the men under whose wise and exemplary 
administration they had grown up in the grace of God and to 
a wondrous civilization, claiming nothing, asking nothing, and 
harming none. It is true that strict discipline and military exer- 
cise had rendered them formidable in the field upon several occa- 
sions, either in avenging wrongs and persecutions inflicted upon 
themselves or in sustaining the lawful authority of the land. But 
the same discipline checked all turbulence now. 

Bucareli carried out his views and, as a preparatory step, occu- 
pied the Pass of Tibiquari, so frequently referred to, with two 
hundred men, stationed an equal number at San Miguel, and then, 
embarking at Buenos Ayres, attended by three companies of gren- 
adiers* and sixty dragoons, sailed up the Uruguay as far as the 
Salto Grande. Here he dispatched Don Juan Francisco de la 
Riva Herrera with two hundred men to execute his orders in the 
missions bordering upon the Parana, and Don Francisco Biuna de 
Zavala to effect the same among the Uruguay reductions. Leav- 
ing his ships at the fall he advanced farther up the river, and made 
Tapeya his head- quarters. With the conquest of these missions 
there could be associated but meagre fame, to make the most of 
it, but to find them unresisting and submitting even in tears 
throws out in bright relief their truly peaceable and Christian 
character. Seventy-eight fathers were found in the reductions, 
and the expedition, with its prisoners, returned to Buenos Ayres in 
September, after an absence of four months.f 

The viceroy had in the mean time taken occasion to draw up 
an address to Charles III., signed by the Indian chiefs, to coun- 
teract the effect of the petition made in favor of the Jesuits. 
There was no difficulty in forcing the Indians to affix their sig- 
natures to this document, which was forwarded as their own, 

* Funes. t Funes, book v., chap. viii. 



COMPLETE EXPULSION OF THE JESUITS. 547 

though diametrically different in tone, spirit, and feeling from the 
former. It is addressed to "Our good King Charles III." The 
following occurs in it : 

66 With our whole heart do we spread this letter out before your royal 
throne. We have already seen enough to assure us, good king, that the 
Lord in his mercy has enlightened you as to our pitiable condition, and 
moved you to relieve us from the arduous life to which we were doomed. 

" As we would receive the person of your Majesty, so with the greatest 
delight have we received the priests and friars whom you have appointed to 
rule over us. Many and repeated thanks do we give your Majesty for hav- 
ing sent such a person to govern us as his Excellency the Captain-general 
Don Francisco Paulo Bucareli. With pity he looked upon our poverty and 
did all he could for its alleviation. His kindness has been made manifest 
to the whole world. He has clothed us with garments, behaved to us and 
invited us to his board as if we were gentlemen. He has gratified the 
highest aspirations of our hearts. We have received this saint, the creature 
of your Majesty, as at the hands of God."* 

The greater part of it is a eulogy upon the saintly Bucareli, 
whose modesty did not deter him from thus attempting to raise 
himself in his Maj esty 's estimation. In the same year the Audience 
of Charcas executed its charge by removing the Jesuits from Chi- 
quitos. And thus two hundred and twenty years from the time 
when the first Jesuits landed upon the Brazilian coast not one of 
Loyola's sons remained upon the South American continent, the 
great field of their missionary labors and imperishable glory. 

Thus the reported standing armies, the supplies of fire-arms, the 
field-pieces and muskets, and the stores of ammunition which had 
so startled the outside world of Spanish America in contemplation 
of resistance to the king's decree vanished like so much smoke. 
Not a warlike demonstration was made. Meekly obedient to their 
pastors, the natives gathered around the missionaries in quiet 
submission to their decision, and awaited without a sign of resist- 
ance the approach of Bucareli's advancing parties. Without a 
murmur, they committed to their charge every possession that had 
fallen to their lot, unresistingly yielding the last temporal and 
spiritual gains that had been amassed by their labors — amassed at 
the price of blood and Christian self-denial — to be devoted to the 
decoration of churches, the increase and improvement of missions 
and schools, never to their own personal gratification. A mourn- 
ful destiny awaited them: they were to be eventually repulsed 

* Translated by Robertson from MS. of Sir Woodbine Parrish. 



548 LOYALTY OF THE JESUITS. 

by their general, and not allowed to find a refuge from the world- 
wide persecution that followed them, even in the States of the 
Pope. 

There can scarcely be a doubt that a formidable resistance 
might have been made by the Jesuits against Bucareli had they 
seen fit or felt disposed to pursue that course. It has already 
been remarked that an army of fourteen thousand men, completely 
equipped, could have been raised, in case of emergency, through- 
out the missions. Though not the most warlike of the aborigines, 
the Guarani of the reductions were brave and well disciplined. 
Had they taken possession of the fastnesses in the wilds of a coun- 
try so little known to any but themselves, they might have enter- 
tained every hope of the success that had previously attended 
their arms against the Paulistas, than whom no enemy could be 
more fearless and daring, none more rightly dreaded. And we 
may reasonably suppose that in the face of this force the viceroy 
would probably either have retreated or been repulsed. They 
might have judged that their success could only be temporary, 
and that their ruin in the end would only be the more overwhelm- 
ing, but there was even here a ray of hope to persevering minds 
such as theirs. They had declined on a previous occasion to rec- 
ognize the boundary treaty of 1751, and the king had yielded ; 
they might beat off Bucareli, declare their loyalty, and yet be 
pardoned. Nor are we inclined to suppose that the meshes of 
Bucareli were so well laid as to have forced upon them the alter- 
native of tame submission. The Jesuits were not out-Jesuited and 
checkmated at last ; they had all the prudence, the foresight and 
sagacity and natural means that they ever had, and, more, a large 
and considerable force to sustain the power that had so long con- 
tinued in their grasp. No coup-de-main or diplomatic trickery 
on the part of the viceroy brought them to the humble terms 
under which they yielded up their persons and their goods. "We 
conceive their whole conduct to have been governed by a sense of 
simple obedience to a decree of the Spanish monarch, and we must 
with justice incline to their cause, and sympathize in their misfor- 
tunes. From the outset we discover no evidence of any contrary 
movement. In their whole history we meet with scarcely a dis- 
loyal act, though we trace their course through a succession of 
popular commotions and revolts among a wildly-scheming and 
adventurous people. Often had they taken up arms in the service 
of the king, never against him ; and it may be safely added that 



INFLUENCE OF THE JESUITS. 549 

by no other people, order, or body of men were Spanish interests 
ever so advanced on the American continent. 

Their removal was neither wise nor politic. It served neither 
the means nor interests of the Spanish people, or the Spanish 
monarch. The missionary's life was pre-eminently the sphere of 
the Jesuit. The genius, the acquirement, the aims that made his 
presence dangerous at Continental courts, made him eminently 
useful in the wilds of La Plata. In driving them from the mis- 
sions of Chiquitos, of the Parana, of the Uruguay, and all others, 
we perceive an inconsiderate, uncharitable, unchristian aim at 
their complete extinction, almost without a purpose. The aged 
Pope Clement designated the order as useful, pious, and holy, and 
these three qualities were to be found in the missionary reductions 
of South America, however wanting elsewhere. 

Azara pursues them with unrelenting enmity in all their meas- 
ures. He approves of the commanderies, first instituted by Yrala 
as a last resort for extending the territory of his governorship ; 
he considered the latter means as the most applicable for enlarg- 
ing the boundaries of Spanish America, and yet inconsistently 
depreciates the benefits of Jesuit missionaries. No conquistador 
ever fought with such success as did the fathers, and no greater 
expanse of country ever fell to his lot. But Paulistas and Com- 
muneros, enemies themselves of the crown, gradually completed 
the work of their destruction. 

And again : we are led to inquire whether the Jesuit teachings 
tended more than any other to benefit the state temporal and 
spiritual of the many indigenous tribes that had been released by 
them from their original barbarism. There are those who con- 
demn — not arguing always — Jesuit interestedness, Jesuit ambi- 
tion, and the condition of pupilage in which, to the last, the Indians 
were held. If there were nothing in the Jesuitic rule to excite 
emulation, yet the natives lived happily under it, attained a con- 
siderable civilization, and relapsed rapidly into barbarism under 
the temporal and spiritual rule which replaced that of the fathers. 
We doubt whether a more enlarged system of instruction could 
have been substituted in that age ; and humanity must deplore the 
destruction of that Christian foundation upon which might have 
been reared, at a later period, a noble superstructure of Indian 
civilization, a development of Indian intellect yet unknown to us. 
It is no matter of astonishment that the Conquistadores and their 
descendants should have exhibited little good feeling for the order 



550 KESULTS OE THEIR EXPULSION. 

and for its works, for the interests of the two were utterly at va- 
riance. One was a sublimely insurmountable obstacle to the self- 
ish designs of the other, for we know that the Jesuits invariably 
checked the merciless cruelties which disgrace the early annals of 
Spanish conquest. 

It is not to be denied that the Indians in entering the reduc- 
tions merely underwent a change of masters, but it was a change 
from bondage under a heartless, unfeeling Spaniard, adventurer, 
and gold-seeker, to a mild and Christian government. On the 
one hand it was a life dragged out in beastly drudgery; on the 
other, pious, cheerful, and elevating. 

The commandantes worked their slaves to death; the Jesuits 
made every provision that could render their neophytes happy 
and contented. The one was an instrument of present civilization 
and future enlightenment ; the other a blight upon progress and 
humanity. Never overtaxed hi the field, and even there enliven- 
ed by strains of music, with every want supplied, without a care, 
instructed by the Jesuits themselves, admitted to the "mysteries" 
of the Church, taught the use of arms and the art of war — whence 
else could they have obtained all this but from the energy, sagaci- 
ty, self-denial, and unity of Loyola's order ? It was this very civ- 
ilization that, with some reason, inspired such groundless fears 
among the Spanish, and in proportion makes the Jesuit mission- 
ary system the more beautiful and the more to be admired. The 
numerous Guarani tribes would have long since been on the verge 
of extinction but for the establishment of these missions ; between 
the cross-fires of Spaniards, Portuguese, and Paulistas, there was 
eventually but little hope of existence. That great race, of which 
the shadow remains to-day, would have been swept from the earth 
centuries ago. The lay and the Jesuit system admit of no ques- 
tion ; and even under that of the Franciscan friars, which fol- 
lowed, the same falling off in population and general receding 
from their former advanced state, shows most conclusively that 
the Jesuit order, however objectionable in the centres of European 
civilization, was here in its proper element. 

On the retirement of the fathers the missions were thrown into 
the most irremediable confusion ; the very heart and soul of the 
Christian republic was gone; it lay like a dead chaotic mass. 
The miserable government and bad administration that followed 
presents only differences and disputes among the newly- vested 
authorities. There was unity in nothing. The spiritual and 



FATE OF THE MISSIONS. 551 

clerical governor — for there was now a very broad distinction — 
seldom or never agreed. All their purposes clashed. But by 
mutual consent the unfortunate natives generally bore the conse- 
quent burdens of their quarrels. Says Doblas, 

" The curates wanted the Indians to attend mass and the count- 
ing of their beads every day at whatever hour the priests might 
choose. This was often purposely made a very inconvenient hour. 
Hereupon the laymen interposed to prevent compliance, some- 
times with reason and sometimes without it. The result was that 
the curate ordered the Indians who obeyed the administrator to 
be flogged, and the administrator awarded stripes to those who 
obeyed the curate. Both chastisements fell upon the miserable 
Indians, without farther delinquency on their part than that of not 
knowing exactly which party to obey, or of obeying the party they 
liked best."*- 

Jesuit harmony and discipline, without which no mission could 
be formed, were wanting. The Indian fled to the forest, and a 
fearful consequence, already referred to, arose from this present 
organization. In 1801 a census of the Indian population was made 
by Don Joaquim de Soria. At that time there were in the thirty 
missions 45,639 souls, less by 98,398 than in the year 1767. In 
this space of thirty -four years more than two thirds of the original 
number had disappeared ; cattle, sheep, and horses were destroy- 
ed ; the old energies of the Christian republic were wasted away, 
until there remained scarcely the skeleton of those flourishing Jes- 
uit missions. Here and there a spacious but crumbling church, 
with fading frescoes, speaks for this departed wealth and civiliza- 
tion. 

* Translated by Robertson, vol. ii., p. 109 



552 SPANISH COLONIAL POLICY. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

False Policy of Spain toward the Colonies. — Treaty of Utrecht. — Foundation of 
Montevideo. — Contrabandists. — Treaty of 1750. — Viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres. 
— Treaty of St. Ildefonso. — Final Concessions of the Mother Country. — Expedi- 
tion nnder Sir Home Popham. — Capture of Buenos Ayres. — Assault of Monte- 
video. — Defeat of General Whitelock. — Liniers. — Joseph Bonaparte. — A Portu- 
guese Pretender. — Cisneros. — Assembly of July 9th, 1816. — Independence of 
Paraguay, Bolivia, and Buenos Ayres. — Disadvantages the South American 
People labored under for forming a good Government. — The Banda Oriental. — 
Urquiza. — Oribe. — Battle of Monte Caseros. — Convention at St. Nicolas. — 
Courtesy extended to our Minister. — Disaffection of Buenos Ayres. — Siege of 
that City. 

The policy of the mother country was not only neglectful, but 
absolutely hostile to the interests of La Plata. Fifty years after 
the foundation of Buenos Ayres one million of cattle covered the 
pampas ; but Spain had not the forecast to see in this extraordi- 
nary multiplication, in the fertility of a soil producing with the 
smallest possible labor the fruits, cereals, and vegetables of tem- 
perate and tropical regions, the elements of a greatness that would 
make it the prize-jewel of her crown, and the seat of a future 
trade that might yield larger revenues than her mines. 

The merchants of Seville and Lima obtained the monopoly of 
the trade of Peru, and through their influence prohibitory edicts 
were issued against that of La Plata, lest it should become, as Ca- 
bot hoped and foresaw, the most popular and available channel of 
communication between Europe and the colonies of the South and 
West. In vain the Buenos Ayreans appealed to the home gov- 
ernment. Their only concession was leave to export annually to 
the Portuguese settlements of Brazil 2000 fanegas of wheat, 500 
quintals of jerked beef, and 500 of tallow; to which in 1618 the 
the farther privilege was extended of sending annually to Spain 
two vessels of one hundred tons burden each, freighted with the 
products of the country. At the instigation of the merchants of 
Seville, a custom-house was established at Cordova, to levy fifty 
per cent, upon all goods which these vessels might be the means 
of introducing into the country, while at the same time the trans- 
mission of the precious metals by this route was entirely inter- 
dicted. 



RESTRICTIONS UPON COMMERCE. 553 

For nearly a century after the settlement of Buenos Ayres all 
commercial intercourse with Spanish colonies of the same hemi- 
sphere was forbidden under severe penalties, and two ships repre- 
sented the whole legalized trade of the country with Europe. It 
was the foundation of a vast debt of grievances, only canceled by 
the movement that released her from the control of so unnatural 
a mother. Though jealously guarding what she considered her 
interests in all laws for the government of the colonies, Spain 
seems to have shown but little sagacity in her transactions with 
foreign powers. She permitted both the Portuguese and English 
to obtain a footing in La Plata, which became the seat of an enor- 
mous contraband trade. The governor in vain endeavored to 
check what ministered less to the luxury or avarice of the people 
than to their necessities, and found its chief strength in the unjust 
policy which for more than a century had been imposed upon 
them. 

In 1715 the treaty of Utrecht secured to Portugal the settlement 
of Colonia del Sacramento, immediately opposite to Buenos Ayres. 
The same treaty conceded to the English an " asiento" or contract 
to supply the Spanish colonies of America with slaves, and Bue- 
nos Ayres was one of the points at which she was allowed to form 
an establishment : here they were to send four ships annually, 
with twelve hundred negroes, their value to be received in the 
products of the country. Both parties bound themselves not to 
transgress the laws which forbade the introduction of European 
goods, but the moral force of these stipulations was weakened by 
the injustice of the mother country and the wants of the Spanish 
Americans, which excused, if they did not justify, the introduction 
of articles forbidden them by more legal channels, or obtained at 
the ruinous prices fixed upon them by the monopolists of Spam. 
So boldly was illegal trade carried on that vessels constantly ar- 
rived freighted with manufactured goods, that supplied not only 
Buenos Ayres, Paraguay, and Tucuman, but, spite of the vigilance 
of Cordova officials, found their way into Peru, where they were 
sold at lower prices than those sent by the merchants of Seville 
via Panama. Both Portuguese and English were equally active, 
and the former attempted to extend their possessions by a new 
settlement near the mouth of La Plata. From this they were 
promptly dislodged by Zavala, Governor of Buenos Ayres, who 
immediately commenced the foundation of San Felipe Puerto de 
Monte Video. Important privileges were granted to the first set- 



554 VICEROYALTY OF BUENOS AYRES. 

tiers, which, induced immigration from the Canaries and other 
places; the viceroy sent large sums from Potosi, the Gruarani 
Indians worked steadily, and Zavala vainly hoped that with the 
erection of Montevideo, and Maldanado on the same shore seventy 
miles east, he had permanently checked the progress of Portuguese 
colonization. Contrary to these expectations, they became more 
active than ever, and established themselves on the Eio Grande, 
carrying on their trade with such spirit that it is said to have been 
worth to them two millions annually. The success of the English 
was yet greater. One of their ships about this time sailed from 
the river with two millions in specie and hides valued at seventy 
thousand dollars, and this too not in return for negroes, but a rich 
cargo of European goods. 

Such was the condition of commercial affairs in La Plata for 
nearly a quarter of a century. Spain awakened at last to the re- 
sult of her selfish and suicidal policy, and attempted to check the 
activity of the contrabandists by her guarda costas, which led to 
open hostilities with England. In 1750, by a new treaty, Portu- 
gal agreed to cede her settlements on the river for the seven mis- 
sionary towns of the Uruguay. The poor Indians, happy and 
prosperous under the rule of the Jesuits, and knowing the Portu- 
guese only as the cruel slave-hunters who had driven them from 
their homes into the folds of these shepherds, revolted with hor- 
ror from this arrangement, and resisted what they considered a 
new effort to enslave them. After destroying the missions and 
slaying several thousand Indians, the Portuguese refused to take 
possession of their lands, and made the opposition of the aborig- 
ines a new pretext for continuing to hold Colonia. 

We have seen that this resistance on the part of the Indians 
was ascribed to the influence of the Jesuits. From that time their 
rule was doomed in La Plata. 

The impunity with which contraband trade had been pursued, 
the increased insolence and continuous aggressions of her trouble- 
some neighbor, left Spain the alternative of a more generous pol- 
icy or the ruin and perhaps the loss of her colonies in this region. 
She determined to form a new viceroyalty, with Buenos Ayres as 
the capital. It was to comprise the province of the same name, 
Paraguay, Cordova, Salta, Potosi, Santa Cruz de la Sierra, La Paz, 
La Plata, Montevideo, Moxos, Chiquitos, and the missions of the 
Uruguay and Parana. A formidable force of ten thousand men, 
in one hundred and sixteen vessels, and convoyed by twelve 



COMMEKCIAL CONCESSIONS. 555 

ships of war, was sent out to sustain the authority of the new 
viceroy, Don Pedro Cevallos, a man who had distinguished him- 
self, while Governor of Buenos Ayres, for his opposition to all for- 
eign encroachment. His first movement was against St. Cath- 
arine, which surrendered with scarcely a show of resistance. He 
next sailed up La Plata to Colonia ; it capitulated, the fortifica- 
tions were destroyed, and the Portuguese driven from all their 
settlements on the eastern shore of La Plata. 

The death of their sovereign, the retirement of Pombal, and 
the accession of the Princess Maria, who earnestly desired peace, 
checked these hostilities, and the treaty of St. Ildefonso, which 
finally settled all questions at issue between the two governments, 
was signed in the autumn of 1777. By its stipulations St. Cath- 
erine was restored to Portugal, who in return relinquished all 
her settlements in La Plata, and commissioners — among whom 
was Azares — were appointed to settle definitely their respective 
boundaries. 

Spain now projected important commercial concessions to the 
colonies. Since 1759 some relaxations had been made from the 
old system, and in 1778, through the influence of Don Joseph de 
Gralvez, at that time minister for the Indies, a new code was pro- 
mulgated, known as the " Free Trade Kegulations." This title 
did not impose upon the people, who saw that it was intended less 
to benefit them than to repair the injury to royal interests, which 
had suffered under the late system of monopoly. Manufactured 
goods were to be admitted for ten years free of duty, and in return 
the raw products of La Plata could enter nine ports of Spain ex- 
empt from tariff; but the trade was confined to Spaniards and 
Spanish ships, and not only the manufacture, but the culture of 
all articles that could interfere with those of the mother country 
were strictly prohibited ; even the vicuna wool was to be sent to 
the royal factory of Guadalaxara. There was yet another heavy 
grievance : Creoles, or natives of the country, were perseveringly 
and entirely excluded from all places of trust and responsibility. 

Spite of the sordid, shallow policy which had dictated these 
new laws, they were an advance upon the old system, and such 
commercial activity followed their promulgation that Buenos 
Ayres, as the mart of La Plata, became the most considerable 
city of Spanish America. So great was the tide of immigration 
into the country that in eighteen years the population had more 
than doubled ; and the export of hides, the great staple, increased 



556 BEITISH EXPEDITION TO BUENOS AYRES. 

from 150,009 annually to 700,000 or 800,000, and in 1783 it 
reached the amount of 1,400,000. 

At the beginning of the nineteenth century such exaggerated 
reports had gone abroad of the disaffection of the colonists of La 
Plata to the Spanish monarchy as to induce an attempt on the 
part of the English to obtain possession of the country. In June, 
1806, Sir Home Popham entered the river with a squadron of five 
ships of war and several transports, having on board a detach- 
ment of troops under the command of Major-general Beresford, 
who, on the 27th of the same month, with only 1630 men, inclu- 
sive of a battalion of 340 marines, landed and advanced upon the 
city of Buenos Ay res, which capitulated — the viceroy, Sobremonte, 
having previously retired to Cordova. 

This success excited much enthusiasm in England. The public 
treasure taken was said to exceed one and a half million of dol- 
lars. Peru and her mines, the tropical regions of Paraguay, the 
pampas of Buenos Ayres, with their millions of cattle, were new 
fields to British enterprise ; in short, an incredible conquest was 
achieved, and the people were represented as satisfied with the 
change of rulers. It was a brief triumph, and after-events proved 
that it could be attributed more to the force of surprise than to 
inability or courage on the part of the Portenos to defend their 
city. The people of the country rallied, and, led by Don Santiago 
Liniers de Bremont, regained possession of their capital only six 
weeks after the entrance of Beresford, who was in turn forced to 
capitulate, and, at the close of the year 1806, the village of Mal- 
danado was the only possession of the English in La Plata. Ee-en- 
forcements soon after arrived under the command of Sir Samuel 
Auchmuty, who invested Montevideo, which, after an obstinate 
resistance, was carried by assault, February the 3d, 1807. 

An attempt made the same year by General Whitelock, with 
11,000 men, to retake Buenos Ayres was a complete failure, and 
issued in a convention, by which was stipulated the entire aban- 
donment of La Plata in less than two months by the whole British 
force. 

After General Beresford's attack, the colonists, in expectation of 
its being repeated by a larger force, had earnestly, but in vain, 
appealed for assistance to the mother country. This last unaided 
defense of the capital against an army officered by some of the 
best men in the British service, and the consequent retirement of 
the invaders from the waters of La Plata, first awakened them to a 



LOYALTY TO SPAIN. 557 

consciousness of their own strength, and impressed a lesson of 
self-reliance more fatal to the Spanish empire in this quarter than 
the armies and fleets of England. 

During the occupation of Spain by the French the first unmis- 
takable evidences of disaffection were shown in South America, 
and Buenos Ayres stands prominently in the foreground of revo- 
lutionary movement. Three centuries of oppression under a crush- 
ing policy antagonistic to all their interests seemed to confer on 
the people a sacred right to better their political condition. After 
the abdication of Charles IV., and at the commencement of the 
struggle in the mother country, they had given striking proofs 
of allegiance to their royal house. In 1808 M. de Sastenay, the 
agent of Napoleon, was sent out to induce them to swear fealty to 
Joseph Bonaparte. His language was specious, and such as we 
might suppose he would address to a people prepared, as he 
thought, by a long political thraldom, to submit, with the hope 
of bettering their condition, to a change of rulers. " It would be 
better for them," he said, "to follow the example of their ances- 
tors in the succession war, and await the fate of the mother coun- 
try — to obey that authority which should possess itself of the sov- 
ereign power." "What was their reply ? The French envoy was 
placed under arrest, and Ferdinand VII. proclaimed successor to 
Charles IV. The same year another claimant appeared. 

This was the Prince Eegent of Portugal, who, on his arrival at 
Eio Janeiro, caused a note to be addressed to the Viceroy and 
Cabildo of Buenos Ayres claiming their allegiance upon the 
grounds of the alleged dissolution of the Spanish monarchy, and 
the rights accruing to his wife, the Princess Carlota, from the ab- 
dication of her father, Charles IV., and the captivity of her brother 
Ferdinand VII., threatening them, in the event of refusal, with 
hostilities from Portugal aided by her allies, the English. A spir- 
ited answer from the Cabildo quieted the action of the Portuguese 
pretender. 

Don Santiago de Liniers had received the appointment of vice- 
roy in reward for the gallantry with which he had headed the re- 
sistance to English invasion ; but he was a Frenchman by birth, 
and, in the present excited state of feeling against his country, this 
was a crime. Accused or suspected of favoring the designs of 
Bonaparte became the excuse for demonstrations against his au- 
thority. Elio, Governor of Montevideo, convoked the inhabitants 
of the city, and established an independent junta. The Portenos, 



558 BEGINNING OF THE REVOLUTION. 

in attempting the same, were promptly put down by Liniers, who 
sent their leaders to Patagonia. 

After the abdication of the king the Supreme Junta of Seville 
recognized the colonies of Spain as "integral parts of the mon- 
archy, with the same privileges as the states of the Peninsula," and 
yet, when they heard of the demonstrations against Liniers, they 
sent Cisneros (who was a weak, incompetent, vacillating individ- 
ual — at best unfit for the office), without permission, to make good 
their own declaration, and without money or troops to support 
his authority. He found the people with an enormous accumula- 
tion of produce, and clamorous for the opening of their ports to 
foreign trade. Forced to accede to these demands, he declared at 
the same time that nothing but the "most urgent necessity could 
have induced him to adopt a measure so discountenanced by the 
laws of the Indies." Eeports of a crisis in the affairs of Spain 
reached La Plata. Joseph Bonaparte was sweeping every thing 
before him; the "Supreme Central Junta" was dissolved, and re- 
placed by a regency which gave little evidence of stability in au- 
thority. The power from which Cisneros had received his ap- 
pointment was no longer in existence, and with its dissolution the 
dissatisfied colonists saw that the moment for the initiation of a 
more liberal policy had arrived. 

The viceroy was informed that the order of government was 
about to be changed ; the Supreme Court of Justice and the munic- 
ipal authorities received the same announcement, which was fol- 
lowed by the immediate establishment of a provisional junta in the 
name of Ferdinand YII. Cisneros was even forced to become a 
member, and for a few days his name was appended to all orders 
issued to the troops and provincial towns to recognize its authority. 

I have before alluded to one of the greatest grievances of the 
colonists, the monopoly by the Spaniards of all places of trust or 
emolument, which created so strong a feeling of dislike on the 
part of the Creole or native population, that, according to Azara, 
it divided families, and even estranged husband and wife, where 
both were not of Spanish birth. Some of the inhabitants at- 
tempted to establish this influence in the Junta by naming Cis- 
neros its president ; a movement exciting much angry feeling on 
the part of the Creoles, who retaliated by arresting the viceroy and 
his adherents and sending them off in a small vessel the same 
night. 

Although the political independence of the North American 



THE CONGRESS OF TUCUMAN. 559 

colonies had been completely established, and the question of 
rights, which had agitated all the governments of Europe, may 
have found an echo in the hearts of many intelligent Spanish 
Americans ; though the enfeebled condition of Spain exhibited but 
too glaringly the decadence of her political power ; the action of 
the Provisional Government, even so late as 1815, in sending 
plenipotentiaries to Europe to solicit Charles IY. to come himself, 
or send his son, Don Francisco de Paulo, to assume the sovereignty 
of the country, shows that, though all were sincere in the desire to 
ameliorate their condition, there was a diversity of opinion as to 
the safest means of attaining this end, some still inclining to a mon- 
archy, while others were for an entirely new organization, with a 
free system as basis. They were only a unit in the resolution 
never to submit to the authority of Ferdinand VJLL, whose only 
reply to their petitions for impartial government, after all the 
proofs they had given of loyalty to his person, was, upon his ele- 
vation to the throne, to call them rebels, and send fresh bodies of 
troops for their subjugation. The struggle was at last consum- 
mated by the assembling, July 9th, 1816, of representatives from 
all the provinces at Tucuman, where they drew up a declaration 
of independence. 

Liberty achieved — at least so far as this action of the Congress 
at Tucuman could make it so — the sympathies that had united 
the different sections of La Plata were merged into local interests, 
and four governments were formed from the viceroyalty of Bue- 
nos Ayres — Paraguay, Alto Peru, or Bolivia, the Bancla Oriental, 
and the United Provinces of La Plata, the latter composed of thir- 
teen states, which, again, may be geographically divided into three 
districts: 1st, the Eiverine Provinces on the Parana; Buenos 
Ayres and Santa Fe on the right bank, Entre Eios and Corrien- 
tes on the left; 2d, the Upper Provinces, Cordova, Santiago del 
Estero, Tucuman and Salta, Jujuy, Catamarca and La Riojo; 
3d, west of Buenos Ayres and approaching the Cordillera of the 
Andes, San Luis, Mendoza, San Juan, and Eioja, which had been 
detached from the government of Chili. 

Paraguay was the first province to assert her right to self-gov- 
ernment; indeed, some years before the '-declaration'' of 1816, 
she was not only free from the authority of Spain, but had de- 
clared her independence of the other states of La Plata. Buenos 
Ayres sent an army under the command of Belgrano to assist her 
people in throwing off the Spanish authority, or rather to compel 



560 POLITICAL CONDITION. 

them to join the general cause. Yegros and Cavallero, acting 
under the orders of Velasco, the last Spanish governor, defeated 
Belgrano, but soon after, almost without a struggle, succeeded in 
setting aside the authority of the governor and in asserting their 
complete independence, which was recognized by Buenos Ayres 
as early as 1811. 

In the northwest the struggle in the southern hemisphere was 
prolonged, and it was not until after the battle of Ayacucho 
that Alto Peru was wrested from Spain and established into an 
independent government, taking its present name, Bolivia, from 
that of the hero of the Revolution, Bolivar. 

I considered an outline sketch of- the settlement and history of 
a country so little known as La Plata a necessary introduction to 
my narrative ; but to penetrate the confusion of her political sys- 
tems since the establishment of the republics would be a task of 
time and difficulty for which I am wholly unprepared. 

Her unaided resistance of English invasion, the reception of 
M. de Sastenay, and the spirited reply of the Cabildo of Buenos 
Ayres to the pretensions of the Prince Eegent of Portugal, a 
complete emancipation from Spain and freedom up to this time 
from any foreign influence which could affect permanently her 
political or territorial integrity, show at least a physical capacity 
for independent government. Again : unanimity of action in the 
first step of the crisis is the best evidence of the sincerity of the 
people in a struggle to improve their condition, though for many 
years there were elements of discordance and diversity of opinion 
as to the best means of attaining the desired end, that totally 
checked all social or political organizations. Pretenders to thrones, 
royal scions of the houses of Braganza, Orleans, Bourbon, were 
quite ready to establish dynasties upon that part of the American 
continent, and all may have found favorists among the perplexed 
revolutionists, for few really understood the first principles of 
civil liberty. The policy of Spain and the wide-awake spirit of 
the Inquisition had secluded them from a knowledge of the work- 
ing of other systems ; their moral energies had been corrupted ; 
they were profoundly ignorant of political economy ; there were 
no national materials, no previous struggles for enfranchisement ; 
there was nothing in the traditions of the past ; in the colonial 
system, not one principle of civil administration as a model- or 
basis on which to construct a new fabric. It was a great ship 
afloat without rudder or compass. One of their own writers thus 



ANARCHY AND CIVIL WARS. 561 

alludes to the men who considered a monarchy expedient : "With 
them that notion did not originate in an intimate conviction ; far 
otherwise. On the one hand, it arose from the want of individual 
capacity to prosecute the Kevolution to its close, and after that to 
present the country with a stable and enlightened organization ; 
and on the other, it was occasioned by the discomfort, or, if you 
prefer the term, the vexation which the tardy progress of the Kev- 
olution brought upon them."* 

Ten years after the first cry of liberty was heard in Buenos 
Ayres, Spain could no longer degrade the United Provinces of 
La Plata by her enactments ; but the swords that had repelled 
foreign invasion and avenged political wrongs became fratricidal. 
The provinces acknowledged for a time the governments succes- 
sively established at Buenos Ayres, based upon a system of cen- 
tralization, which gave the executive, who was to reside at that 
city, extensive civil and military jurisdiction, even to the appoint- 
ment of governors for the provinces. But an opposition showed 
itself in a large party favoring a federation. The capital was in- 
vaded and the government or central party accused of aiming to 
establish a monarchy under the protection of France, with the 
young Duke of Lucca as its head ; a charge followed by the pub- 
lication of the correspondence of Don Yalentine Gromez, their 
agent at Paris, containing the particulars of a scheme to that ef- 
fect which had been proposed by the French ministry. The dis- 
location was general. What was before considered a nation sub- 
divided itself into many independent states, each declaring its 
own independence. Province rose against province ; cities, vil- 
lages, families, individuals warred against each other. In the 
struggle the darkness of anarchy settled upon the new republic. 

At last, in the first months of 1821, some light appeared in 
the re-establishment and consolidation of order in Buenos Ayres, 
Leaving the interior provinces to the control of their own leaders, 
the Portenos proceeded to form an independent government. In 
this effort they adopted a wise principle of action : " that all the- 
ory should be proscribed in the organization of a country, and its 
demonstration left to practice." By the stipulations of commer- 
cial treaties she, in this phase of her political existence, sought and 
obtained the support of foreign powers. 

The interior provinces gained no strength by isolation. Their 
history presents nothing but a chronicle of desolating strifes, fac- 

* Nunez. 

36 



562 THE. STATES OF LA PLATA. 

tions, endless intrigues of military chieftains and political aspir- 
ants, aiming at much, effecting nothing. It has been until very 
recently the struggle of a brave people, dreaming of free institu- 
tions, but grasping in the dark for their prosperity. It is true, 
the theory of liberty has found able advocates, who, in the elegant 
diction of the Spanish language, have with eloquence and fire ex- 
patiated upon its blessings in their legislative assemblies. Some 
of their military chiefs have ^hown genius, fertility of resource, 
and personal courage ; but generally, in the history of their prom- 
inent men, we seek in vain for the patient, self-sacrificing spirit of 
the heroes of JSTorth American independence. 

Sir Woodbine Parrish, who witnessed the progress of their po- 
litical history for nearly a quarter of a century, says, in speaking 
of the interior provinces, " Without any denned league or general 
engagement among themselves, even to guarantee the integrity of 
the republic, or any thing like a Congress or representative body 
to watch over their common interests since the dissolution of that 
in 1827, they have been obliged to delegate to the executive gov- 
ernment of Buenos Ayres, the sole and entire charge of their na- 
tional concerns, their defense in war, the maintainance of their 
foreign relations, the management of the public debt, and of all 
matters of common interest to the republic at large, a trust which, 
in virtue of the unlimited power conferred upon General Eosas, 
the present Governor of Buenos Ayres, has become, de facto, vested, 
with all its duties and responsibilities, in one single individual, a 
strange ending of a struggle for Federalism." 

Bolivia, an inland state, from her geographical position, as well 
as from the disturbances of political factions, has been deprived of 
all stimulus to commercial enterprise. Paraguay ended her strug- 
gle for civil liberty by submitting, in less than five years, to the 
dictatorship of Francia. The Banda Oriental, erected into an in- 
dependent state in 1828, has been depopulated and desolated by 
civil contests, foreign occupation, and interference brought upon 
her by the intemperate conduct of her own chiefs. 

I forbear to pursue the domestic or foreign policy of Eosas, a 
policy in contradiction to all theory or practice of constitutional 
government. But there was a spirit of intelligence in the country 
he governed, dormant but not annihilated ; a leader of ability and 
integrity was alone needed to give it activity. This individual 
appeared in the person of Justo J. Urquiza, Governor of Entre 
Eios and Corrientes, a man of admitted military genius, and known 



EOSAS AND UKQTJIZA. 503 

at one time as an able supporter of Eosas, but who, at last, disgusted 
with his administration and moved by noble and enlightened 
views for the future of "La Plata," raised the standard of opposi- 
tion. The Governor of Buenos Ayres was in the habit of resign- 
ing his authority at stated periods, upon the score of broken health 
or age, relying, and for a long time with success, upon his knowl- 
edge of and influence over the members of the assembly, none of 
whom dared accept the proffered resignation. They generally 
urged his retention of office with adulatory expressions which 
were duly published and sent forth to foreign powers as expres- 
sive of the public voice. On one of these occasions, Urquiza, by 
proclamation, released Eosas from executive responsibilities, and 
placed himself at the head of a party favoring the opening of the 
rivers of La Plata to commerce, and the union of the states com- 
posing the " United Provinces of La Plata" into a confederation. 

The rivers which have their rise in the northwestern provinces 
of Brazil give access from the Atlantic to a large and valuable 
part of her territories. Their free navigation is essential to her 
interests, and to obtain this concession from Eosas she had in vain 
exhausted the arts of diplomacy. The traditional antagonism of 
Spaniard and Portuguese was now merged in the policy of union 
for the purpose of opening the Parana, Paraguay, and Uruguay, 
with their tributaries, to the commerce of the world. Urquiza 
found a powerful ally in Brazil. 

Their first combined movement was against Oribe, who had, 
with troops partly furnished by Eosas, held Montevideo in a 
state of siege until a town, "Eestoracion," of eight or ten thou- 
sand inhabitants had actually grown up around his encampment. 
But for the interference of England and France, who recognized 
and supported the inside party, the city would have fallen into 
his hands. A considerable body of Entre Eians and Corrientinos, 
under the command of Urquiza, a Brazilian squadron in the 
river, and a force of infantry and artillery under Baron Caxias, at 
last brought Oribe to terms, almost without striking a blow. 
Consummate address marked the conduct of Urquiza. He pro- 
claimed, on entering the country, a desire to avoid the shedding 
of blood. His mission, he announced, was patriotic. Thousands 
joined his standard. Deserted by whole detachments of troops, 
with but a limited supply of provisions, and cut off from both the 
resources of the interior and river by the allied army and Brazil- 
ian squadron, Oribe surrendered unconditionally. 



564 SUCCESS OF URQUIZA. 

Thus, after a siege of nine years, the relief of Montevideo was 
accomplished, and Urquiza withdrew to his own province only to 
prepare for a more direct blow at the power of Eosas. In Janu- 
ary, 1852, he recrossed the Parana at the head of a large force, 
and without encountering opposition reached Monte Caseros, with- 
in fifteen miles of Buenos Ayres, where he was met by the Dicta- 
tor at the head of an army of twenty thousand men. The great 
battle of the 3d of February, 1852, ended in the total defeat and 
flight of Eosas, and secured the future independence of the Argen- 
tine States. 

The Dictator sought and obtained the protection of an English 
man-of-war in the " Eoads ;" Urquiza, at the head of a large body 
of cavalry, infantry, and artillery, made a triumphal entry into the 
city, established his head-quarters at Palermo, and appointed Don 
Vincente Lopez, a man advanced in years, but greatly beloved and 
respected for his intelligence and amiability, Governor of Buenos 
Ayres. 

On the first of May Urquiza was named " Provisional Directoi," 
and the 25th of the same month the governors and delegates of 
fourteen provinces assembled at St. Nicolas for the purpose of 
forming a government. As a manifestation of respect for the 
United States, General Urquiza invited our representative, the 
Honorable John Pendleton of Virginia, to accompany him to San 
Nicolas, where on the 1st of June the delegates from the Argen- 
tine States agreed upon the terms of a provisional administration, 
and a Congress to convene at an early day and form a constitution 
for a permanent federal government. A copy of the proceedings 
of this convention was put into the hands of Mr. Pendleton upon 
the day of their passage, by the order of General Urquiza, that he 
might send it by dispatch to Buenos Ayres, so as to arrive before 
the departure of the British mail-packet. The messenger was au- 
thorized to say that no other government had been thus favored, 
and that it was the desire of the Provisional Director to signify by 
this act a special consideration for the United States of America, 

On the 14th of June General Urquiza returned to Buenos Ayres, 
to find the city in turmoil and confusion, arising from the disaffec- 
tion of the members of the Provisional Assembly (the " Sala"). 
Grave exceptions were taken to the proceedings of the Provision- 
al Congress at San Nicolas, and among them the most prominent 
was, that too much power had been conferred by it upon the Pro- 
visional Director. Don Yincente Lopez, who had represented the 



DISAFFECTION AT BUENOS AYRES. 565 

Province of Buenos Ayres, appeared before the Sala, and attempt- 
ed to defend his course, but he was hooted at and hissed. He re- 
signed his position as governor of the city, and political affairs as- 
sumed rather a gloomy aspect. Either a new convention must be 
called to revise the proceedings of the Provisional Congress, for 
the pacification of the Sala, or its disaffection must be arrested ; 
in other words, either the thirteen provinces must be governed ac- 
cording to their own provisions or by those of the Sala at Buenos 
Ayres. 

General Urquiza was not the man to deliberate long as to which 
of the two courses he should adopt. The Sala, without soldiers 
or money, and an enraged populace at its back, adjourned in con- 
fusion, and the Provisional Director, with the strong arm of the 
military to sustain him, restored order by banishing five leading 
members, and reappointing Yincente Lopez governor. He then 
withdrew the forces from the city, dispatched them to the various 
provinces from which they came, leaving only the military of the 
Province of Buenos Ayres to defend their own capital, and retired 
on the 8th of September to Santa Fe, where the convention 
charged to prepare a constitution for the Confederation had met 
August the 20th. This Congress was composed of two delegates 
from each of the thirteen provinces, Entre Bios, Corrientes, Santa 
Fe, Cordova, Mendoza, Santiago del Estero, Tucuman, Salta, Jujuy, 
Catamarca, Eioja, San Luis, and San Juan. 

Many exiles who had joined Urquiza for the purpose of putting 
down Eosas, but without any intention of elevating the former to 
the same position, now took advantage of the withdrawal of the 
troops to conspire against his authority, and, being natives of Bue- 
nos Ayres, drew to their side a number of the people and soldiers of 
the province. Their opportunities to create a revolution were am- 
ple, and their plans and designs well conceived and ably executed. 
It broke out on the 11th of September, and General Galan, at the 
time acting as governor by appointment of the Provisional Direc- 
tor, retired with such of the troops as remained faithful. The in- 
surgents made a pretended pursuit, but neither fight nor skirmish 
ensued, and the "Director," informed by rapid expresses of the 
events that had occurred, marched without delay at the head of 
such troops as were at Santa Fe, and joined General Galan at San 
Nicolas. 

His first impulse was to advance against Buenos Ayres, but of 
this he thought better, and, issuing a proclamation, in which he 



566 SIEGE OF BUENOS AYRES. 

announced his determination to leave that city to its own course, 
he returned to Parana to await the action of the Congress. 

The ruling spirits of the Kevolution were not content to be let 
alone, or quietly remain the citizens of an independent state. 
They wished to break up the Confederation by sowing broadcast 
the seeds of discord in the western provinces. Failing in this, 
they dispatched the best part of the force at their disposal under 
the command of Cenerals Madariaga and Honos to invade Bntre 
Eios. Urquiza assembled a large body of troops, and led them in 
person to meet the invaders, who were defeated and driven from 
the province. 

Here, then, collecting an army of twelve thousand men from 
the different states, he marched once more against Buenos Ayres, 
and, in conjunction with General Largos and a small naval force 
consisting of three steamers, a brig, a three-masted schooner, and 
several smaller vessels, besieged and blockaded the city and har- 
bor. Such was the condition of political affairs in La Plata when 
the Water "Witch arrived at Buenos Ayres. 



APPENDIX, 



APPENDIX A (Page (26). 

INSTRUCTIONS FROM HON. JOHN P. KENNEDY, SECRETARY OF THE NAVY, TO 
THOMAS J. PAGE, LIEUTENANT GOMMANDING. 

By a decree of the Provisional Director of the Argentine Confederation, the 
long-sealed and excluded country lying upon the tributaries of the Eio de la Plata 
has been thrown open to navigation, and the Uruguay and Parana have become 
accessible to all nations who may choose to seek the new associations which they 
offer to the spirit of adventure. 

The importance, in a commercial point of view, which is attached to this new 
field of operations has invited the enterprise of our country as well as of other na- 
tions ; and, with a view to gratify and please the emulous ambition of the nation, 
and to secure the great advantages of its trade, the President has directed a small 
steamer to be dispatched to the La Plata for the purpose of exploration and survey 
of the upper streams above their falls, and to which service you have been assigned 
in command of the United States steamer ''Water Witch." 

The principal objects to which your attention is directed are to explore the rivers 
Plata, Paraguay, and Parana, and all their tributaries worthy of exploration ; to 
determine the practicability of navigating them, their course, extent, productions in 
fish, etc. ; to examine not only the country bordering on the rivers, but also, to some 
extent, the interior beyond the water-courses, so as to acquire correct information 
touching the nature and extent of agriculture, and, consequently, the probable ex- 
tent to which commercial intercourse may be desirable ; to make collections for the 
advancement of knowledge in natural history, botany, mineralogy, and other de- 
partments of natural science ; to make astronomical, meteorological, and magnetic 
observations ; to determine latitude and longitude, and to make a series of sketches 
in Daguerrean and camera impressions illustrative of the scenery, Indians, and ge- 
ological formations of the country. 

Although the primary objects of the expedition are the promotion of the great in- 
terests of commerce and navigation, yet you will take all occasions, not incompati- 
ble with the great purpose of the undertaking, to extend the bounds of science, and 
promote the acquisition of knowledge. 

No special directions are thought necessary in regard to the mode of conducting 
the researches and experiments which you are enjoined to prosecute, nor is it in- 
tended to limit the officers who accompany you each to a particular sphere ; all are 
expected to co-operate harmoniously in all the details of the expedition. 

You will adopt the most effective measures Within your control to prepare and 
preserve all specimens of natural history that may be collected, and, as opportuni- 
ties offer, send them to the United States to be delivered to the Secretary of the 
Navy, in order that they may be lodged for safe keeping at the Smithsonian Insti- 
tution. You will also avail yourself of such occasions to forward copies of charts, 
details of your doings, duplicates of specimens, or any other materials you may deem 
it important to preserve from the reach of future accident, at the same time strictly 



568 APPENDIX A. 

prohibiting all communications, except to the Department, from any person under 
• your command referring to any circumstances connected with the progress of the 
enterprise. 

Among savage nations, unacquainted with or possessing but vague ideas of the 
right of property, the most common cause of collision with civilized visitors is the 
offense and punishment of theft. You will therefore adopt every possible precau- 
tion against this practice, and in the recovery of stolen property, as well as in pun- 
ishing the offense, use all due moderation and forbearance. 

You will permit no trade to be carried on by any under your command with the 
countries you may visit, either civilized or savage, except for necessaries or curiosities, 
and that under express regulations to be established by yourself, in which the rights 
of the natives must be scrupulously respected and carefully guarded. 

You will neither interfere, nor permit any wanton interference, with the customs, 
habits, manners, or prejudices of the natives of such countries as you may visit, nor 
take part in their disputes except as a mediator, nor commit any act of hostility un- 
less in self-defense, or to protect or rescue the property of those under you, or those 
; whom circumstances may place within reach of your protection. 

You will carefully inculcate on all who accompany you that courtesy and kindness 
toward the natives which is understood and felt by all classes of mankind ; to dis- 
play neither arrogance nor contempt, and to appeal to their good-will rather than 
to their fears, until it becomes manifest that they can only be restrained from vio- 
lence from fear or force. 

You will on all occasions avoid risking the officers and men unnecessarily on shore 
at the mercy of the natives. Treachery is one of the invariable characteristics of 
savages, and very many of the fatal disasters which have befallen the navigator and 
explorer have arisen from too great reliance in savage professions of friendship, or 
overweening.confidence in themselves. 

It is the nature of the savage to remember benefits, and never to forgive injuries ; 
you will therefore use your best endeavors, wherever you may go, to leave behind a 
favorable impression of your country and countrymen. 

The expedition is not for conquest, but discovery. 

Its objects are all peaceful ; they are to extend the empire of commerce and of 
science, in which all enlightened nations are equally interested, and we have a right 
to expect the good- will and good offices of the whole civilized world. 

You will bear in mind that though you may be carried beyond the sphere of so- 
cial life and the restraint of law, yet the obligations of justice and humanity are al- 
ways and every where equally imperative, in your intercourse with men, and most 
especially savages ; that we seek them, not they us ; and that, if we expect to derive 
advantages from the intercourse, we should endeavor to confer benefits in return. 

You will carefully refrain from the exercise of undue prejudice or partiality to- 
ward any under your command. 

An observance of strict impartiality toward all will best promote the harmony and 
efficiency of the expedition. 

On entering any harbor, or meeting with any public vessel bearing the flag of a 
nation in amity with the United States, you will be careful to observe the usual 
I courtesies. You will enjoin all under your command to abstain from violating the 
commercial or municipal laws or regulations of the places they may visit, and to 
avoid, as far as possible, giving any the least ground of complaint. The policy of 
the United Sates is avowedly pacific, and, while studious to maintain the honor and 
guard the interests of their country, it is the duty of its officers to abstain from vio- 
lating the laws or rights of other nations, and, by conciliating the good-will and fa- 



APPENDIX B. 5g9 

vorable opinion of the people they may visit in the course of the cruise, to strengthen 
the bond of commercial intercourse, and increase the disposition to more intimate 
relations. 

Should any violation of the persons or property of American citizens be commit- 
ted or attempted, you will seek reparation or restitution by persuasive yet firm 
measures ; and you will not resort to force unless in the last extremity, and when 
no doubt can exist that right and justice are on your side. 

The maintenance of discipline is an object requiring your unwearied solicitude. 
The character of our country is only known and judged by remote and savage tribes, 
and even by semi-civilized nations, by the personal deportment of its officers, who 
are, to a certain extent, its representatives.' The high standard which is within 
their reach, and should be the aim of every one, is the best calculated to command 
respect and confidence from all with whom intercourse is held. 

All officers are enjoined by law, by regulation, and by regard to their own honor 
to maintain, in all respects, 'a correct deportment toward superiors, inferiors, and 
equals. A general observance of this salutary rule will render each one more happy 
in his own person, more zealous in the discharge of his duty, and more useful to the 
service of which he is a member. 

You will not allow any under your command, if you can prevent it, to incur debts 
and leave them unpaid in any port or place they may visit. 

If any be heedless of this order, you will report the circumstance to the Depart- 
ment. 

It is hoped and believed that every officer associated with you will zealously co- 
operate with you in preserving the strictest discipline. 

In conducting the exploration intrusted to you it may be found necessary to call 
to your aid means which can not be provided for in a small steamer of the capacity 
of the " Water Witch, " such as horses, mules, and other resources for the transport- 
ation of small parties for shore operations, you are therefore authorized to employ 
all such means as you may deem essential to accomplish the objects of the expedi- 
tion, keeping in view at all times the security and safety of your officers, crew, and 
vessel, and a rigid economy in your expenditures. 

You will communicate your proceedings at regular intervals direct to the Depart- 
ment, forwarding a duplicate of each letter by the earliest opportunity to be found 
after the original shall have been transmitted. 

* * * * You will report by letter to the Commander of the United States Squad- 
ron on the coast of Brazil, as a part of his command, but assigned to special duty 
under the orders of the Department, with which he will not interfere except under 
the most imperative circumstances, and he will be instructed to furnish such aid and 
facilities as you may require in conducting the exploration. 



APPENDIX B (Page 29). 

COEEESPONDENCE OF MESSES. SCHENCK AND TEOUSDALE IN RELATION TO THE 
EXPLOEATION OP THE PAEAGUAY. 

This and the following letter are introduced to show the grounds on which their 
author advocated the application for permission to explore the Brazilian waters : 

Mr. Schenck to Senor de Souza. 

Legation of the United States, Eio de Janeiro, August 20, 1S53. 
The undersigned, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary of the 
United States, desires to recall the attention of His Excellency Paulino Jose Soares 



570 APPENDIX B. 

de Souza, of the Council of His Majesty the Emperor, Minister and Secretary of 
State for Foreign Affairs, to an application which was made to the imperial gov- 
ernment a few months ago. 

On the 26th of April last, in the absence of the undersigned, a note was addressed 
to his Excellency by Mr. Coxe, the Secretary of this Legation, inclosing a copy of 
a letter from Lieutenant Thomas J. Page, of the United States Navy, commanding 
the United States steamer "Water Witch," a vessel which had just then arrived in 
this port on her way to survey the Eiver Plate and its various tributaries. The ob- 
ject was to obtain the friendly co-operation of the imperial government in aid of 
that expedition, by orders to the authorities of those of her provinces in which are 
any of the navigable waters of the rivers to be explored. 

In reply to this note, on the 4th of May, his Excellency was pleased to say that 
the imperial government, having opened to foreign commerce, in the River Para- 
guay, the port of Albuquerque, would make no objection to Lieutenant Page carry- 
ing his explorations to that point, but would send the necessary orders to the Pres- 
ident of the Province of Matto Grosso, and to other imperial agents, that they might 
give him all the co-operation in their power ; but that the imperial government, not 
having yet opened to foreign nations other ports above Albuquerque, and not having 
yet agreed as to the navigation of those rivers with other riverine states, could not 
permit foreign vessels to enter them, and thus establish an example and precedent 
which might be prejudicial to the empire, the right of navigation of those rivers not 
having been settled. 

This correspondence was immediately communicated to the commander of the 
expedition, who had already proceeded to the River Plate ; and the answer of the 
imperial government and the license thus accorded are duly appreciated. 

But the undersigned, being then upon the eve of going himself on his special mis- 
sion to the La Platine States, had little opportunity to advert to the limitations and 
qualifications of the permission expressed. 

On reflection since and now, the undersigned has believed it proper to state to his 
Excellency that the limited privilege, conceded in answer to the request, is not as 
liberal as the United States and their agents had a right to expect from a govern- 
ment as enlightened as this. It can scarcely be that the restriction as to the point 
to which the imperial government is willing, on its part, that the "Water Witch" 
should ascend the River Paraguay, and the refusal altogether to permit her to en- 
ter other rivers, would be insisted on if the nature and objects of the expedition were 
fully understood and considered. 

Otherwise the undersigned is unable to comprehend why such an enterprise, pure- 
ly national in its character, projected for a simple and peculiar purpose, and that 
purpose the advancement of science, should have been put upon a footing with in- 
dividual commercial pursuits, and subjected to reasoning that can apply only to ordi- 
nary voyages. Nothing is proposed which could be regarded as an example or prec- 
edent for the voyage of a merchant or trading ship, or even of a vessel of war only. 

To remove any possible misapprehension, however, the undersigned will now re- 
peat that the "Water Witch" has been commissioned and fitted out expressly for 
an exploration and careful survey of the River Plate and its tributaries; that the 
officers and crew have been selected and detailed with a view to that specific and 
only duty ; and that, in short, the object is one purely scientific, looking to the ex- 
amination of all that may be interesting in the productions and capabilities of the 
countries bordering upon their waters ; and also, and more particularly, to an accu- 
rate sounding of the channels to ascertain their fitness for navigation by steam-boats 
and other vessels. 



APPENDIX B. 571 

And as the history and results of this exploration and survey — the descriptions 
and charts which may be produced — will be made public to the world, for the com- 
mon information of all, surely not the least interest and benefit may be expected to 
accrue to those governments and their inhabitants who have possessions through 
which the different rivers flow. No questions of rights of navigation or transit can 
possibly be involved in this work. 

But the undersigned will not argue the subject farther. If, with this simple ex- 
planation repeated, the expedition thus sent out by the United States does not at 
once commend itself to the good wishes and favor of Brazil to the fullest extent, but 
if, on the contrary, she interposes objections to its objects being pursued in any case 
above a certain point on one of the rivers, because she has opened nothing beyond 
that or elsewhere on the streams within her jurisdiction to foreign commerce, he 
can only regret that he must report so unexpected a disposition of the imperial gov- 
ernment to his government at home, Avho will not fail to contrast it with the prompt, 
cordial, and unrestricted encouragement and aid which have been extended to the 
enterprise by the other states and territories having possessions on the different riv- 
ers in question. 

In the confidence that, upon a reconsideration of this subject, a farther and more 
favorable and liberal answer to the application will be made by his Excellency, the 
undersigned avails himself of the occasion to renew to his Excellency the assurances 
of his high respect and distinguished consideration. Robert C. Schenck. 

To His Excellency Paulino Jose Soares de Souza. 

Mr. Schench to Senor de Abreo. 

Legation of the United States, Eio de Janeiro, September 21, 1853. 

The undersigned, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary of the United 
States, has the honor to acknowledge the receipt of note No. 28, dated the 16th in- 
stant, from his Excellency Antonio Paulino Limpo de Abreo, of the Council of His 
Majesty the Emperor, Minister and Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, in reply 
to that which was addressed by the undersigned to the predecessor of his Excellency 
on the 20th of August last, in relation to the scientific and exploring expedition sent 
by the government of the United States, under the command of Lieutenant Page, 
into the waters of the River La Plata and its tributaries. 

The undersigned regrets to learn from his Excellency that the imperial govern- 
ment persists in its determination not to consent that the steamer "Water Witch," 
commissioned for this survey, shall be permitted to ascend any of the rivers within 
the territory and jurisdiction of Brazil, except the River Paraguay, and that river 
only as far as the port of Albuquerque. 

This resolution of the imperial government appearing to be decided and final, the 
undersigned does not propose to repeat or enlarge farther upon the reasons and sug- 
gestions which he has before presented for consideration, and which he supposed 
might have elicited a different answer. He will content himself with communicat- 
ing to the President of the United States an account of the application which it has 
been his duty to make to the national authorities of Brazil, and the want of success 
which has attended that application. The sovereignty of Brazil must, of course, be 
fully recognized ; and any rule that she may think proper to establish will be re- 
spectfully observed by the United States, in regard to that portion of any river which, 
having its sources within her territory, flows entirely within her jurisdiction. 

And the undersigned would not now deem it necessary to extend the correspond- 
ence on this subject, or to reply to the note of his Excellency, but for the farther re- 
marks of his Excellency which accompany the communication of this decision. 



572 APPENDIX B. 

His Excellency observes that the undersigned is perfectly aware that, above the 
port of Albuquerque, there is no other in the River Paraguay which has been opened 
by the imperial government to foreign commerce. That from this arrangement it 
results, as is obvious, that to no foreign vessel can the river be accessible above that 
port. That this was a principle established in very clear and express terms by de- 
cree of the imperial government, No. 1140, on the 11th of April of this year. And 
that the argument, therefore, that the "Water Witch," of which Lieutenant Page 
is commander, has for its sole object to explore the Eiver Paraguay and its tribu- 
taries, can not avail, in the opinion of the imperial government, to change in favor 
of that vessel the general principle which that decree established, and which would 
be abandoned by the ascent of the "Water Witch" beyond the port of Albuquerque. 
Admitting the premises, the undersigned can not yet assent to the conclusion ar- 
rived at by this reasoning. It seems to him a non sequitur that the exclusion of ' ' for- 
eign commerce 1 '' should shut out from the privilege of a higher ascent of the river a 
national vessel, engaged in no commercial pursuit or enterprise whatever, but sent 
by a friendly power upon the peaceful and disinterested errand of scientific explo- 
ration and survey. But the undersigned recognizes the full right of the imperial 
government to give interpretation to its own decrees, and is only led into this com- 
ment on the position taken, because his Excellency has seemed, from the form of ex- 
pression used, to appeal to the undersigned to admit the justice and the logic of the 
proposition, which the undersigned is unable to do. 

His Excellency informs the undersigned, however, that the resolution of the im- 
perial government does not prevent such explorations as the commandant of the 
steamer may be instructed to make in the River Paraguay and its tributaries above 
the port indicated, but that for this purpose he can employ boats of the country, 
which he will easily find there. And it is added, that there are reasons for sup- 
posing that these boats will be the best adapted for the ascent of the River Paraguay 
beyond Albuquerque, which will perhaps not be practicable for the " Water Witch." 

The undersigned duly appreciates this explanation of the action and views of the 
imperial government, and thanks his Excellency for the suggestion as to the man- 
ner in which the objects of the expedition may be accomplished above the point in 
question. His Excellency's note will be communicated to Lieutenant Page, who is 
charged with the service, and that officer will exercise his discretion, under such in- 
structions as he may receive from the government at Washington, in regard to pur- 
suing the survey in the way proposed to him. At present, and perhaps for the next 
year or two, the surveying and mapping of the lower parts of the Parana and Para- 
guay, and of the Rivers Pilcomayo and Vermejo, will sufficiently occupy his atten- 
tion. It is not probable, however, that he will at any time avail himself of a per- 
mission, on the Paraguay, to employ the boats of the country as recommended ; for 
the undersigned begs leave to state that the government of the United States has 
not sent out such an expedition Avithout providing all the necessary means for its 
prosecution. Lieutenant Page has with him not only all the boats that would be 
ordinarily supplied for carrying out properly the examinations and surveys to be 
made, but has been furnished also with the boilers, engine, and machinery for the 
construction of a small steamer, with a draught of only a foot or fourteen inches, by 
means of which those waters and channels may be sufficiently explored and meas- 
ured which may be found too shallow to admit a vessel as large as the "Water 
Witch." This small auxiliary steam-boat Lieutenant Page is now about building 
and putting together, it is understood, at Assumpcion, in Paraguay. As to the doubt 
expressed whether the "Water Witch" herself could ascend above Albuquerque, the 
undersigned must be permitted to remark that that is a question to be. determined 



APPENDIX B. 573 

only by one of those practical experiments which are among the objects of the ex- 
pedition. 

The undersigned appreciates and has pleasure in acknowledging the expression 
of the sentiments of friendly consideration which are entertained by the imperial 
government toward the government of the United States, and the assurances that 
orders shall be repeated that the commandant of the "Water Witch" may not fail 
of any co-operation or aid which he may need for the accomplishment and happy 
issue of the duty intrusted to him. The undersigned, in behalf of his government, 
sincerely reciprocates these friendly sentiments ; and avails himself of the occasion 
to renew to his Excellency the assurances of his perfect esteem and distinguished 
consideration. ■ Robert C. Schenck. 

Mr. Trousdale to Lieutenant Page. 

Legation of the United States, Rio de Janeiro, August 8th, 1854. 
Lieut. Thomas Jefferson Page, Commanding U. S. Steamer " Water Witch." 

Sin, — I received your communication, without date, through Robert G. Scott, 
Junior, Esq., Acting Consul of the United States at this port, on the 1st of July 
last, and on the 3d pf that month I addressed a note to the Secretary of Foreign 
Relations of the Government of Brazil, inviting the attention of his Excellency to 
the correspondence of my predecessor, the Hon. Robert C. Schenck, with the Sec- 
retary of Foreign Relations on the subject of the exploration of the tributaries of the 
Rio de la Plata, and asking again the sanction and co-operation of the imperial 
government to the expedition of the "Water Witch," and the privilege of ascend- 
ing the River Paraguay to the head of navigation. 

I am now in possession of the answer of the imperial government to that note, as 
furnished through the Secretary of Foreign Relations, from which it appears that, 
on more mature reflection, the imperial government has granted the privilege asked 
for, of exploring the River Paraguay to the head of navigation, and has given in- 
structions to the President of the Province of Matto Grosso, and the other agents 
of the government in that quarter, to facilitate the expedition to the full accomplish- 
ment of the original design ; herewith inclosed you will find copies of my notes to 
the Secretary of Foreign Relations, and of his answers, marked A 8 , B 8 , C 8 , D 8 . 

I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, W. Trousdale. 

Inclosures. 
A 8 . Mr. Trousdale to Foreign Office, July 3d, 1854. 
B 8 . Foreign Office to Mr. Trousdale, August 2d, 1854. 
C 8 . Mr. Trousdale to Foreign Office, August 4th, 1854. 
D 9 . Foreign Office to Mr. Trousdale, August 7th, 1854. 

Mr. Trousdale to Senor de Abreo. 

Legation of the United States, Eio de Janeiro, 3d July, 1854. 
The undersigned, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary of the 
United States, has the honor to inform his Excellency Antonio Paulino Limpo de 
Abreo, of the Council of his Majesty the Emperor, Minister and Secretary of State 
for Foreign Affairs, that it has become his duty to invite the attention of the govern- 
ment of Brazil to the subject of the exploration of the tributaries of the Rio de la 
Plata, and to bring the question of the privilege of ascending the River Paraguay 
to the head of navigation again to the notice of the same, and to solicit once more 
the approbation and co-operation of the imperial government to that enterprise. 
This subject has been ably presented by .my predecessor in repeated communications 



574 APPENDIX B. 

to the government of Brazil, to which the attention of his Excellency is particularly 
invited ; the undersigned deems it useless at present to attempt farther argument 
on the subject. 

It will be remembered that the expedition on which the "Water Witch" has been 
ordered by the President of the United States has purely for its object the advance- 
ment of commerce and promotion of science ; and the enterprising commander of 
the "Water Witch," Captain Thomas Jefferson Page, having advanced as far, in 
the discharge of his arduous duties, into the territory of Brazil as that government 
has consented to co-operate with said exploration, it now becomes necessary to ask 
the Brazilian government to co-operate with this enterprise to its consummation, 
by at least extending the facilities heretofore given to the termination of the navi- 
gation of the Paraguay. 

The undersigned hopes for an answer at an early day, and renews to his Excel- 
lency the assurances of his high esteem and distinguished consideration. , 

(Signed) W. Trousdale. 

To his Excellency Antonio Paulino Limpo de Abreo, etc., etc., etc. 

Legation of the United States, Eio de Janeiro, 4th August, 1854. 

The undersigned, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary of the 
United States, presents his compliments to his Excellency Antonio Paulino Limpo 
de Abreo, of the Council of his Majesty the Emperor, Minister and Secretary of 
State for Foreign Affairs, and has the honor to acknowledge receipt of his Excel- 
lency's communication of the 2d instant, which contains the information that his 
Majesty the Emperor and the government of Brazil, to whom the note of the under- 
signed of the 3d ultimo had been presented, which asks the privilege for the United 
States steamer "Water Witch" to explore the Eiver Paraguay to the head of navi- 
gation, and to obtain the sanction and co-operation of the government of Brazil to 
the full accomplishment of the original design of that expedition, had consented to 
the objects asked for in said note, on the condition that the undersigned should re- 
ply to the communication of his Excellency of the 2d instant, confirming the state- 
ments made by the Hon. Kobert C. Schenck, in his notes to the Secretary of State 
for Foreign Affairs of the government of Brazil, on the subject of the exploration by 
the steamer "Water Witch" of the tributaries of the Eio de la Plata. 

The undersigned will here state that he has not been furnished with a copy of 
the instructions given by the President of the United States to Lieutenant Thomas 
Jefferson Page, commanding the United States steamer "Water Witch," in rela- 
tion to the exploration of the tributaries of the Bio de la Plata ; all the information 
the undersigned has on that subject is obtained from the statements of others : The 
letter of Lieutenant Thomas Jefferson Page to Ferdinand Coxe, Esq., Secretary of 
Legation of the United States at the Court of Brazil, of the 26th April, 1853, in 
which he states the expedition has purely for its object the advancement of com- 
merce and the promotion of science ; Mr. Coxe, in his note of the same date, 26th 
April, 1853, to the Secretary of Foreign Affairs, speaking of Lieutenant Page, says: 
"This officer has been ordered by the President of the United States upon the highly 
interesting and important duty of exploring and surveying all the rivers running into 
the La Plata, and it is not doubted that the results of the expedition will be of the 
highest importance to the commercial and scientific world." It will be seen that 
Mr. Schenck, in his communication to the Secretary of Foreign Affairs, of the 20th 
August, 1853, uses this language : " Otherwise the undersigned is unable to compre- 
hend why such an expedition, purely national in its character, projected for a sim- 
ple and peculiar purpose, and that purpose for the advancement of science, should 



APPENDIX C. 575 

have been put on a footing -with individual commercial pursuits, and subjected to 
reasoning tbat can apply only to ordinary vessels ;" and, again, Mr. Scbenck, in 
bis note to tbe Secretary of Foreign Affairs, of the 7th October, 1853, speaking of 
the action of the government of Brazil, says : " She will therefore not consent that 
the steamer 'Water Witch,' sent by the United States on a purely scientific expe- 
dition, shall ascend above that point;" and, again, Lieutenant Thomas Jefferson 
Page, in a late communication to the undersigned, speaking of the refusal of the 
Imperial government to permit him to explore the tributaries of the Eio de la Plata, 
says: "It can not be the fixed, determined object of the government to arrest an 
expedition having for its object solely the promotion of science." 

Prom the foregoing statements the undersigned feels authorized to say that the 
object of the expedition of the "Water Witch" in the tributaries of the Rio de la 
Plata is intended to promote the cause of science, and should not be construed into 
a precedent for vessels of either war or commerce to navigate those streams. 

The government of the United States will duly appreciate this act of kindness 
and friendship toward it by the government of Brazil, and it will doubtless strength- 
en the cords of friendship which now bind together those governments. 

The undersigned hopes for a speedy consummation of this matter, and avails him- 
self of this opportunity to renew to his Excellency assurances of Iris high esteem and 
distinguished consideration. (Signed) W. Trousdale. 

To his Excellency Antonio Paulino Liropo de Abreo, etc., etc., eta 



APPENDIX C (Page 59). 

FROM THE DISPATCHES OP ME. EOBEET C. SCHENCK, UNITED STATES MINISTER 
TO BRAZIL, ON THE POLITICAL EVENTS THAT TOOK PLACE AT THE TIME OP 
GENERAL URQUIZA'S ABANDONMENT OF THE SIEGE OF BUENOS AYRES. 

By my last dispatch you were informed that I had returned here, bringing the 
two treaties which Mr. Pendleton and I have had the good fortune to conclude with 
the Argentine Confederation. I send them now, with other original papers, as 
follows : 

1st. The Treaty of San Jose de Plores, for the free navigation of the rivers Pa- 
rana and Uruguay, made July 10th, 1853 ; accompanying which is a Notice of the 
Eatification of the same, on the 12th of July, by General Justo Jose de Urquiza, the 
Provisional Director. 

2d. The Treaty of Friendship, Commerce, and Navigation, made at San Jose, 
July 27th, 1853 ; accompanied by the Certificate of Powers of the Plenipotentiaries 
of the Confederation of the same date ; and the Notice of Eatification by the Pro- 
visional Director, on the 30th of July. 

In the case of the Treaty of San Jose de Plores, there was but one general power 
given to the Argentine plenipotentiaries, authorizing them to treat alike with the 
United States, Great Britain, and France ; and as there could not be an exchange 
with each, the original was left in custody of the French plenipotentiary. 

It would not be necessary to add much to what has already been reported to you 
of the circumstances attending our negotiations and the signing of these treaties. 

On my arrival at Buenos Ayres, on the 21st May last, I found the city in a state 
of close siege and blockade. The conferences between the two belligerent parties, 
which were initiated and conducted under the auspices and mediation of the minis- 
ters of Brazil and Boh via, had been broken off; .and I was accordingly disappoint- 
ed in my expectation of finding peace, and with it the government of the Confed- 
eration established and prepared to treat. For two months the prospect of making 



576 APPENDIX C. 

my mission effective seemed to be no better ; and, at the close of June, I had de- 
termined and was prepared to return to my post here, abandoning for the present 
all idea of a treaty, general or special, and leaving farther negotiations on the part, 
of our government to a more promising time, and to whomsoever might be hereafter 
appointed to the duty. 

But just at that contingency I obtained such reliable information of a crisis at 
hand as induced me to change my purpose, and I resolved to remain another month. 
I became satisfied that in the new aspect of affairs would be found the first and best 
opportunity that was likely to present itself for concluding treaty stipulations, which 
should not only embrace, as far as the United States were concerned, the general 
provisions for reciprocal commerce and friendship, but that with these, or in advance 
of these, might be obtained the great object of the special missions of England and 
France, as well as what we sought ourselves — security for the free navigation of the 
rivers. To- this latter object particularly, in conjunction with the British and French 
ministers, we first applied ourselves, and the result is the treaty of the 10th of July. 

So far as the Argentine Confederation is concerned, or has jurisdiction in the 
rivers La Plata, Parana, and Uruguay, not only the principle, but the fact is now 
fixed and perpetual. 

A free passage for the commerce of all the world on those waters will no longer 
depend on laws or decrees, which may be repealed, or even on a constitutional pro- 
vision, which may be changed, but is safe henceforth under the solemn guarantees 
of international contract. 

A similar treaty precisely in all its terms was signed on the same day by the pleni- 
potentiaries of Great Britain and France. 

Mr. Pendleton has already given you an account of the base and treacherous 
transfer of the blockading squadron of the Confederation by Coe, their chief naval 
commander ; the disastrous influence that that surrender had upon the besieging 
army, and other particulars of the course of events, which led General Urquiza to de- 
termine finally to abandon all farther forcible measures toward Buenos Ayres. It 
is sufficient, with reference to our diplomatic duties and services in the midst of 
these occurrences, to state that we had to go back and through the lines of the bel- 
ligerent parties, with such degree of safe-conduct as their passes and escorts could 
secure to us, seeking actively and discreetly as we could to provide for the interests 
we had in charge, and not always, perhaps, without exposure to some little peril. 
It was, in truth, a duty somewhat anomalous, and in proportion exciting, for a ci- 
vilian to be engaged in. 

The mediation which was undertaken by Sir Charles Hotham, the Chevalier St. 
Georges, and myself, at the instance of both parties, has been also explained to you; 
and its abrupt conclusion, the final breaking up of the siege, the retiring of Urquiza 
with the troops of the Confederation, and the dispersion of the outside chiefs of 
Buenos Ayres. 

General Urquiza, as Provisional Director, with approval of the Constituent Con- 
gress, took at length the course which should have been, I think, his policy, and the 
policy of the Thirteen Provinces, from the beginning — that was to leave Buenos 
Ayres to herself, to unite or not with them as she might elect under the Constitution. 

It was in this view of the subject that we mutually agreed with the Provisional 
Director that the time had come for treating with the Confederation under his aus- 
pices. 

Buenos Ayres may deny, in her present anomalous position, refusing as she does 
to be represented in the Constituent Congress, that treaties thus made are binding 
upon her. I have no apprehension, however, that she will to the end continue to 



APPENDIX C. 577 

disregard their obligations. But if she should attempt to do so, she will be ulti- 
mately, and soon, in one way or another, compelled to abide by them. 

She is either in the Confederation or out of it. If in it, she must be made to con- 
form to its international duties ; if out of it, and hereafter recognized as a separate 
nationality, she will be constrained, by the opening of the rivers and ports above, 
and for her own self-preservation, to enter into similar treaties on her own account. 

The time has passed by when a single state or province, upon her pretensions of 
her superior wealth, and population, and strength, can dominate over all others, ob- 
structing their progress, and hindering the friendly relations they would establish 
with other countries. She will learn, of necessity, the republican lesson of political 
equality with her sister provinces, and that she must not expect them to submit to 
no organization but one which would leave all the power and rule with her. 

I may here add that the Constitution (so identical almost with our own) which 
was adopted at Santa Fe, and submitted, through the Provisional Director, to the 
people of the provinces for their acceptance, has been received enthusiastically every 
where out of Buenos Ayres ; and I presume that the next step of the Constituent 
Congress which framed it, and which remains in session until the complete organi- 
zation under it, will be the appointment of a day for the election of President and 
Vice-President. 

Urquiza will undoubtedly be elected President, if he is willing to acept the office. 
His elevation to that position will confirm still more the hostility of Buenos Ayres. 
But she would be almost equally averse to the election of any one, being a native 
and resident of an interior province. 

But, leaving these speculations as to the future of the Confederation, I present, 
with brief remark, the treaties as we have actually made them, and which, I trust, 
will receive the sanction of the President and the Senate. 

The treaty of San Jose de Flores is a success, you will observe, quite exceeding 
what Mr. Webster, in his instructions to me of the 28th of April, 1852, expected we 
should be able to accomplish. It was hardly hoped then that a negotiation for the 
free navigation of the rivers could terminate thus favorably. 

This treaty embodies the principle of General Urquiza's decree of the 3d October, 
1852 ; and will be in entire accord with Article 26, first part of the Constitution 
of the Confederation. The constitutional declaration is in these terms : 

" Article 26. La navigation, de los rios interiores de la Confederation es libre para todas las ban- 
deros, con sujecion unicamente a los reglamentos que dicta la autoridad National." 

It was at first objected, on behalf of the Confederation, that this provision of their 
constitution removed the whole subject from the treaty-making power, and would 
leave it only within the jurisdiction of the Congress. The legislative power, it was 
claimed, could alone be the national authority to prescribe the needful regulations 
for such free navigation. 

After much discussion we overcame this position, by satisfying the plenipoten- 
tiaries as to what must be the interpretation of their own constitution, to wit, that 
treaties regularly concluded, either by the present Provisional Executive, or made 
by the President and approved by Congress, after the organization under the consti- 
tution, are to be taken, as in the United States, as "the supreme law of the land ;" 
and that "regulations" established by treaty must be considered as much sanction- 
ed by "national authority" as if enacted in the shape of statute law. This radical 
and essential point was yielded to us upon the argument which was devolved upon 
me to make in behalf of the three powers. 

I do not know that more than one or two of the particular articles or clauses of 
this treaty require comment. The others all clearly explain themselves. 

37 



578 APPENDIX C. 

Article V. is an important stipulation. The Island Martin Garcia being at the 
head of the River Plata, and commanding the whole channel by which vessels must 
pass to and from the mouths of the Parana and Uruguay, an unfriendly power in 
possession of that point might obstruct the whole navigation. Hence the necessity 
of some guard against such possible interpretation. The Province of Buenos Ayres 
at present claims and holds the island. 

Mr. Pendleton and I would not agree, on behalf of our government, to any strong- 
er obligation of resistance than is conveyed by the phrase "use their influence.'* 
That is an expression which will admit of great latitude of interpretation. Some 
such clause, however, in the treaty, you will at once perceive, was essentially neces- 
sary for its certain efficiency. 

So far as the Confederation is concerned, it is to be fairly claimed, I think, that 
the ratification of this treaty, as well as that subsequently made at San Jose, is com- 
plete. But General Urquiza, at the same time that he, in the exercise of his plenary 
powers as Provisional Director, was willing to give, and has given his absolute con- 
firmation to them both, has yet, out of respectful deference to the Congress, whose 
sanction will be required to treaties made under the constitution which is so soon to 
come into force, declared also his purpose to submit these to the approval of that 
body. 

This explanation might remove some ambiguity that you might otherwise find in 
the respective ratifying clauses. 

■ Our co-operation with the British and French plenipotentiaries ceased after the 
execution of the River Treaty. ' 

Mr. Pendleton proceeded, as he has informed you, on the 22d of July, to Entre 
Rios, to procure our farther negotiation on account of the United States alone. The 
treaty we agreed on there, on the 27th, is substantially the same as that which Great 
Britain at present enjoys, hers being made in the time of Rosas at Buenos Ayres ; 
and France has intrusted the duty of endeavoring to obtain a similar one to a new 
Minister Plenipotentiary, who had just arrived in the river at the time of my leaving. 

You will find that in all the articles there is no material alteration in any respect 
from the ordinary form and provisions of these reciprocal treaties which we were in- 
structed to adopt. In some parts only I sought to simplify, condense, and make a 
little clearer, and trust I, in some small degree, succeeded. 

In one important particular, however, we have obtained an advantage quite be- 
yond any thing secured in other treaties of this class. This with the Argentine 
Confederation is perpetual. Considering the principles of reciprocity established by 
it, and the comparative amount of commercial and other interests of the two coun- 
tries and their citizens to be benefited in their relations with each other, our gov- 
ernment has all the gain, and loses nothing by the absence of any limitation Of time. 

It is not probable that such a perpetual treaty would have been obtained by us 
now, but from the fact that the existing treaty with England is without limit. 

But we have not found General Urquiza, or any of those associated with him in 
the present government of the Confederation, disposed to prefer any other country 
or its interests to those of the United States. Indeed, there is entertained for us, I 
may say, a decided partiality. They look at present with especial interest for the 
public opinion of our people upon the experiment they are about to make with our 
Federal Constitution. 

In the journey made by Mr. Pendleton and myself to Entre Rios, to meet Gen- 
eral Urquiza and conclude the general treaty, we were received and entertained 
with marks of the most distinguished and flattering respect to our country. We 
were made at all points the guests of the government ; the American flag was dis- 



APPENDIX D. 579 

played at every opportunity ; and, in short, every testimonial and attention exhib- 
ited which could indicate the high consideration in which we were held as repre- 
sentatives of an admired nation. 

Mr. Pendleton being unfortunately taken sick by the way, and unable to proceed 
farther than Gualaguaychu, I had to go on to San Jose and agree upon the treaty 
alone ; but General Urquiza kindly and promptly met this difficulty by sending a 
confidential messenger back with me, a distance of seventy miles, to bring and take 
the copy for the Confederation, so that my colleague should also have opportunity 
to affix to it his seal and signature. 

This partiality toward the United States is more to be regarded, when it is con- 
sidered that the recent treachery of our countryman Coe, and the very reprehensible 
conduct in that connection of one of our naval officers of high rank, and perhaps of 
other American citizens, had tended, just at that time, to excite a prejudice to our 
general disadvantage and discredit. 

I have thought it not impertinent to the subject of my dispatch to mention this 
continued favor toward our government and people, as it may avail something here- 
after to cultivate and encourage such a disposition for the benefit of American com- 
mercial and other interests that may be expected to spring up and increase in that 
quarter. 

I must not close this dispatch without bearing testimony to the very friendly co- 
operation that Mr. Pendleton and I have had throughout the negotiations with Sir 
Charles Hotham and the Chevalier St. Georges, the British and French Ministers, 
in all that related to the objects and interests of our three governments that were in 
common. 

We found both those gentlemen on all occasions liberal and frank in the highest 
degree. I believe it will be admitted all around that we labored together, when it 
was necessary or expedient, with joint and mutual benefit. 

I desire also to express to you a very high sense of the important services render- 
ed to us by Lieutenant Thomas J. Page, commanding the United States steamer 
"Water Witch." Without his various services in carrying General Urquiza and 
his staff when they retired from Buenos Ayres ; in conveying Mr. Pendleton and 
myself afterward to Entre Rios, and other duties which he with his ship was able to 
perform, I hardly know how we could have succeeded in bringing our negotiations 
to a successful conclusion. The presence of the "Water Witch" for several weeks 
at that particular juncture was invaluable ; and all her movements strikingly ex- 
emplified the necessity of having a vessel of her kind and class, on almost all occa- 
sions, on the River Plate. 

Will you please communicate to the Secretary of the Navy this expression of our 
appreciation of the services of Lieutenant Page. 

I have the honor, etc. Robert C. Schenck. 



APPENDIX D (Page 59). 

MEMORANDUM AS TO THE " PROTEST" OF BUENOS AYRES AGAINST THE TREATY 
OF SAN JOSE' DE FLORES (5th SEPTEMBEE, 1853), BY ROBERT C. SCHENCK, MINIS- 
TER PLENIPOTENIARY. 

The first thing that demands attention in this paper is the extremely unfair, un- 
candid, and, in some particulars, false statement.which is made in regard to the cir- 
cumstances existing at the time the treaty was signed. 

My government has already been informed as to the history of the mediation 



580 APPENDIX D. 

which was conducted under the auspices of the Ministers Plenipotentiary of En- 
gland, France, and the United States, and of the condition of affairs which attend- 
ed the withdrawal of General Urquiza from the siege, and his retirement to Entrc 
Rios. It is not necessary to repeat that histoiy. But it is well to remark how stu- 
diously the government of Buenos Ayres attempts to confuse and mix together mat- 
ters which have no connection. 

The understanding in regard to the retirement of General Urquiza, for the rea- 
sons stated in his proclamation, and without obstruction, was one thing ; the terms 
which should be made with General Lagos and the provincial troops outside, was 
altogether another affair. General Urquiza, by the arrangement that had been 
made, was at liberty to retire, and might have retired with all the forces of the other 
provinces unmolested at any time for two days before he did go. But he magnani- 
mously remained to see what agreement the two Buenos Ayrean parties, inside and 
outside, were going to make between themselves, what terms would be granted to 
General Lagos, if he would raise the siege, and what he would accept. General 
Urquiza apprehended that if he were the first to go with the troops of the Confed- 
eration, the city would not keep faith with Lagos. And the result proved that there 
was but too much reason to doubt the sincerity of the inside party. For my- 
self, I had no confidence in the ministers of the inside from the beginning ; and I 
thought General Urquiza was right in waiting as long as he did for the event. The 
delays that were interposed, day after day, to avoid a final arrangement, were re- 
sorted to by the city party, I believed then, and am certain now, only for the pur- 
pose of exciting doubt and disorganization among the troops outside, and not with 
any intention of making a fair and honest peace. 

It is false to say, as their "Protest" does, that the mediating ministers were at the 
Government House in the city on the 13th of July, laboring to make terms for the 
safety of General Urquiza. The question as to General Urquiza's movements was 
disposed of. They were then only trying to adjust the terms of peace to be made 
with Lagos and his provincial force. It is equally untrue the statement that that 
long interview Avas broken up by news of the abandonment of the siege by Urquiza 
and Lagos. The discussion was protracted by Torres and his fellow-ministers, and 
every sort of new delay and objection interposed by them, to the surprise of the 
mediating ministers, after every point as to Lagos and his chiefs had been the day 
previous substantially agreed upon and settled. But before that interview was over, 
the terms in relation to Lagos and his provincial force were at last signed by the 
Buenos Ayrean ministers, and not communicated that night to him only because 
it was too late. The departure of General Urquiza was not known by the medi- 
ating ministers nor heard of in the city until next morning ; nor did they learn un- 
til then of the breaking up of the siege of Lagos. 

General Lagos took that course evidently yielding to the disorganization of his 
forces produced by the delays and false dealing of the inside government — delays 
cunningly and basely resorted to after every thing had been virtually and in good 
faith arranged. 

I have not a doubt but that while the mediating ministers were discussing for 
hours the plan of an honorable peace with the ministers of the city on the 13th, at 
that very time the authorities were sending out the reports, which became current 
in the camp, that the mediating ministers had confederated with General Urquiza 
to betray Lagos and his troops. 

I will not, however, as I said, repeat this history. It is only of any consequence 
to refer to it again, because it shows that General Urquiza, in making the treaty, 
acted under no such imminent danger, or apprehension, or in any such state of alarm 



APPENDIX D. 581 

as this "Protest" imputes to him. If there was any truth or good faith in the in- 
side party, he had no cause to feel any apprehension on the day the treaty was 
made, for his understanding with them was already complete, and they had gladly 
concurred in the arrangement that he should retire, with the troops of the Confed- 
eration under his immediate command, in the foreign men-of-war. In order to 
make it otherwise appear now, they are forced to deny and discredit their own prop- 
ositions and solemn promises. They had even three days before requested of Gen- 
eral Urquiza, through the mediating ministers, as a favor, that when he did with- 
draw to Entre Bios he would go up the River Uruguay instead of the Parana — a 
request which he had acceded to as suiting his own purposes. 

But, suppose it were true that General Urquiza was beaten, defeated, driven from 
Buenos Ayres, how could that affect the validity of the treaty he had made ? It 
does not in the least touch the question. 

This "Protest" proceeds throughout on the mistaken assumption that a govern- 
ment negotiating with the Argentine Confederation is going to take notice of the 
domestic broil or civil war existing in Buenos Ayres, one of the provinces of that 
republic. But that is wholly an affair of their own. It matters not whether the 
war was between different parts of that province or different portions of its people ; 
or between that province and the rest of the Confederation. 

Buenos Ayres is not known to foreign powers in this question. She has never, 
in fact, separated herself from the Confederation, and declared her independence ; 
and if she had done so, the recognition of her nationality is an act and right which 
belongs exclusively to governments. And until such recognition has been made, 
either by her own government or the government to which the province belonged, 
we are bound to consider her ancient relations as unaltered. This principle has 
been distinctly declared by an American judicial court, in Gelston versus Hoyt — 3 
Wheaton, 324. 

It is of no consequence whether the Provisional Director, when he made his 
treaty, was marching out of that province, or into that province, or had never been 
near that province at all. It is of no consequence whether Buenos Ayres was at 
peace within her own borders, or distracted by war ; or at peace or at war with the 
rest of the Confederation. We have nothing to do with those domestic affairs. 

The question is, Whether ice have a treaty with the Argentine Confederation ? Not 
''-What the Argentine Confederation is?" Buenos Ayres may belong to it, or not be- 
long to it ; be bound to its treaties, or not bound ; and so may any other province. 
Those are questions to be considered hereafter. 

But the "Protest" says that General Urquiza was not a free agent, but was act- 
ing under compulsion when he treated. 

The best answer for that is that General Urquiza still adheres to the treaty, and has 
ratified, and asks for it the approbation and sanction of the Congress of the Confeder- 
ation. And the constituted authorities of the national government under the Constitu- 
tion will probably be as well satisfied with it as the Provisional Director. He report- 
ed the whole negotiation and its conclusion to the Constituent Congress ; and his 
communication, with exact copies of all the treaties, was published in full in the Na- 
tional, the official newspaper at Parana, the capital of Entre Rios, on the 22d of Au- 
gust. It was . through that publication that the authorities of Buenos Ayres must 
have possessed themselves of the copies which, with so much parade, they pretend- 
ed to have " discovered" on the 31st of August. Discovered a secret plot against 
Buenos Ayres in the public newspapers ! It really seems that they can not be other- 
wise than disingenuous about every thing. 

The sympathy for General Urquiza, in the coercion and abuse of his situation to 
which it is pretended he was subjected, seems to be entirely uncalled for. 



582 APPENDIX D. 

I 

Besides, to show that there was no surprise or imposition on the Provisional Di- 
rector, it must be remembered that he had been, for almost a year before, consider- 
ing the making of this very treaty. 

All the terms of it, I am informed by the English and French plenipotentiaries, 
had been virtually agreed to with them months previously to its being concluded ; 
and two weeks before he had signified to me his willingness to make a treaty with 
the United States, in the very words of this which was signed. 

But the "Protest" objects that General Urquiza had no power to treat. 

It is rather late to claim now that General Urquiza did not represent the Confed- 
eration in its foreign relations, when such powers had not only been conferred upon 
him by the Acuerdo of San Nicetas, and confirmed subsequently by the Congress of 
Delegates at Santa Fe, in which thirteen of the fourteen provinces were represent- 
ed, but when he had been actually exercising such functions in repeated ways and 
instances. He concluded a treaty, by his plenipotentiary, with Paraguay on the 15th 
July, 1852. He received these very ministers of England, France, and the United 
States, who signed the treaties of San Jose de Flores, in July and August, 1853 
— ministers who came with letters of credence, and with powers to treat on the very 
subject of this treaty — the free navigation of the rivers. Buenos Ayres had no ob- 
jection to make to his powers then. It is with her now evidently an after-thought. 

But Buenos Ayres complains that she was not represented in the Congress which 
confirmed the powers of the Provisional Director. That is a pity ; it is, perhaps, 
her misfortune. The other thirteen provinces were all there ; and, it seems, by the 
adoption of a constitution, that the Argentine Confederation will go on even with- 
out her concurrence, notwithstanding Buenos Ayres is impressed with the idea that 
that is impossible ! 

It is to be hoped, however, that so important a member of the Confederation as 
she is will reconsider her ground, and not hold out any longer in her anomalous po- 
sition. It is desirable that she could continue in the republic, because, in addition 
to other advantages, her capital city will be a convenient and suitable place for the 
federal capital. 

It is pretended that the powers of the Provisional Director have ceased with the 
adoption of the Constitution. If that were admitted, it would follow, as a conse- 
quence, that there is no government of the Confederation ; because the elections for 
President and Congress, under the Constitution, not yet having taken place, there 
has been nobody to whom the provisional government could surrender its powers. 

It is, on the contrary, obvious that the provisional government — that is to say, the 
provisional directorship, continues in the person of General Urquiza, or some one 
else ; or else there must be some other form of government to represent the sover- 
eignty and nationality of the republic until ths organization shall have taken place 
under the Constitution. 

There is no force in the objection that the 5th article contains an agreement in 
regard to the Island of Martin Garcia, and is void, because that island belongs to 
Buenos Ayres, and she was not consulted. Admit, for the sake of argument, that 
the island is her territory ; and also admit (which she does not dare to claim) that 
she is no longer in the Confederation ; even then the agreement about it is good be- 
tween the parties to the treaty. 

Did not England and France invite the United States to enter into a treaty in re- 
gard to the Island of Cuba ? and yet Cuba belonged to neither of the contracting 
parties ; and, more than that, the very object of such a treaty was that it never 
should belong to either. The government of the United States did not in that case 
decline because there was any doubt about its power and right, or the power and 



APPENDIX D. 583 

right of the other parties to treat upon the subject, but because it did not suit 
our policy to tie up our hands, or to be drawn into any such negotiation about that 
island. 

The Protest says that the 6th article would deprive Buenos Ayres of her right of 
blockade, in time of war with any nation on the river above her. Not at all. This 
article expressly recognizes the right of blockade and search, in proper cases, by de- 
claring what articles of a cargo shall be considered contraband. 

But "a blockade to be acknowledged as valid must be confined to particular 
ports, each having a force stationed before it sufficient to interrupt the entry of ves- 
sels." Such is the law of nations ; and it is only intended by this article that nei- 
ther Buenos Ayres nor any other state, under' claim of right of blockade, shall shut 
up the rivers and stop the commerce and navigation of all the countries above ; but 
shall be confined, in the exercise of her hostile right, to a strict and legitimate block- 
ade of the particular port or ports of the nation with which she may be at war. 

The pretense that this treaty was made merely as a means by which General 
Urquiza might avenge himself on Buenos Ayres, does not deserve notice or reply. 
Nor will I answer the base insinuation that the ministers of the three governments 
bargained for the treaty with General Urquiza, as the condition of their acknowl- 
edging the blockade of the port of Buenos Ayres, farther than by reference to the 
fact that that blockade was recognized as legitimate, in May, not by the diplomatic 
agents, but as a question pertaining to them by the naval commanders, not only of 
England, France, and the United States, but also of Brazil, Sardinia, Spain, and 
all other countries having vessels of war on the station. 

The declaration of Buenos Ayres that she first opened the rivers to free navigation 
by her law of the l%th October, 1852, is a mere impudent pretension. It is such a 
statement as could only be expected in a paper which represents the squadron, sold 
by the traitor Coe, as ' ' having gone over and submitted voluntarily to the orders of 
the Buenos Ayrean inside party, simply because it recognized the justice of that 
cause." 

The fact is that General Urquiza, to whom the world is indebted for his liberal 
policy, after the fall of Eosas, made the first decree opening the rivers on the 2&th 
of August, 1852; and afterward confirmed that again by his other decree made at 
Parana, October 3d, 1852. And this last mentioned decree was issued, as declared 
in the preamble to it, ' ' in view of the opposition taken by the Province of Buenos 
Ayres," that is because Buenos Ayres had shown a disposition to obstruct that free 
navigation. 

But whether the rivers are open or not — by decrees of Urquiza, by the law of 
Buenos Ayres (and how covdd her sola legislate for the waters of the whole Confed- 
eration?), or by the declaration contained in the Constitution of the Confederation; 
in either case, there was still the same necessity for a treaty. Now this free navi- 
gation will not be subjected to changing legislation, amendments of a constitution, 
revolutions, or caprice of the Confederation, or of any of its states ; but it is estab- 
lished and perpetually secured by solemn compact between sovereign nations. 

And here I would stop. But, looking at the treaties as published with this "Pro- 
test," I can not forbear calling attention to another small matter — a petty trick and 
cheat to which these Buenos Ayrean ministers have descended, in order to make 
it seem that General Urquiza was usurping a title and office which could only be 
conferred under the Constitution. They have falsified the ratifying clause in each 
of the treaties by substituting the word "President" (Presidents de la Confederation) 
for "Provisional Director" {Director Provisario). 

Rio de Janeiro, 1853. 



584 APPENDIX E. 



APPENDIX E (Page 137). 

EXTRACTS FEOM THE REPORT OF LIEUTENANT POWELL ON HIS TOUR 
THROUGH THE YERBALES OF PARAGUAY. 

The general plan adopted for the execution of my instructions was to take the 
fides of an imaginary triangle, one angle of which rested at the city of Asuncion, 
another among the "Yerbales," near the town of San Estanislado, and a third at 
the town of San Cosme on the River Parana, as the route of travel to be followed as 
nearly as practicable, to fix the important features, astronomically or by bearing and 
distance, to collect specimens of productions, and to show the present condition of 
the country.' 

The party under my charge for this service consisted of two of the crew of the 
Water Witch and a native, who acted as guide and Guarani interpreter. Our means 
of transportation were horses, one of which carried, as a pack, two tents, cooking 
utensils, etc. The instruments consisted of a sextant and artificial horizon, a pock- 
et-chronometer, a compass, a mountain barometer, and thermometers. The chro- 
nometer and compass were carried upon my person, the barometer on that of the 
guide. 

These arrangements being completed, we left Asuncion on the 31st of May, 1854, 
and commenced our route to the northward and eastward for the Yerbales. Fol- 
lowing this route as shown by the map, we spent our first night out at the village of 
Lugue, thence passed on to the more considerable town of Ytagua. 

Leaving Ytagua on the 7th of June, we passed around the head of the Lake Ypa- 
caray, and after visiting the villages of Atira, Tobaty, and Caraguatay, reached 
San Estanislado on the 17th, where we were hospitably received and comfortably 
housed by the Juez de Paz, Don Jose de Ricaldi. 

A glance at the map shows the Lake Ypacaray lying between the slight sierras of 
Paraguayri and Piraju. It is a beautiful sheet of water of twelve or thirteen miles in 
length and from one to three miles in width. It receives its waters from the neigh- 
boring sierras and the valley to the eastward, and discharges them into the Paraguay 
through the little river Salaclo. Herds of cattle graze upon its banks, but its surface 
is only disturbed by numerous wild fowls, and its depths as yet only sounded by the 
nutria, the alligator, and other of its indigenous occupants. 

The face of the country between the Sierra of Piraju and the River Aguay is gen- 
erally low, aud, though interseced by the considerable stream of the Piribeby and 
some small tributaries of it and the Aguay, is not sufficiently well drained to prevent 
its being wet and sometimes marshy, except about the occasional wooded. knolls 
which rise from 50 to 75 feet above the general level. The villages of Atira and 
Tobaty, situated on the slope of the Sierra of Piraju, are but small collections of in- 
different Indian huts, standing around their little churches and inhabited by rem- 
nants of the once numerous Guarani tribe. 

The town of Caraguatay contains 120 houses, and upon our entering it on the 
morning of the 9th the people were celebrating a "fiesta," in honor of the re-elec- 
tion to the Presidency of his Excellency Don Carlos Antonio Lopez, and I estimat- 
ed the number in the place at one thousand. So many of these crowded around 
the tents as to prevent me from using the instruments or doing any thing else than 
gratify their curiosity, and to force me to surrender at discretion and await a better 
time. By meridian of the 12th I found but three families in it. The "fiesta" was 
over, and they all had returned to their usual residences in the neighboring country. 

The River Aguay was only about thirty yards wide, and, like most of the other 



APPENDIX E. 585 

streams of this low section of the country, has but little current, though the depth 
was such as to make it necessary to swim our horses and pass the luggage in canoes. 
As shown by the map, it discharges into the Paraguay ; and near where we crossed 
it there was in course of construction a large raft of timber, to be floated down to 
Asuncion. 

On the northern bank of the Aguay lies the estancia of the state, Ygazauri, which 
is one of many large tracts of land, stocked with cattle and horses, owned by the 
state, and managed, under the direction of the government, by a capitaz and his as- 
sistants. In extent it is said to be twenty miles square, and the stock upon it num- 
ber eighty thousand head. The number of cattle owned by the government of this 
country on these different estancias is estimated at one million. 

Between the Eiver Aguay and the Sierra of San Miguel lies the Estero of Agua- 
racaty, an extensive marsh in which are lost several considerable streams, among 
which is the Eio Hondo. 

As we advanced over Ygazauri our route lay over marshes and through lagoons, 
in which the mud and sand was frequently above the girths of our saddles, causing 
considerable difficulty in our progress and great fatigue to our horses. At the dis- 
tance of five miles from the Hondo we reached the estancia of the state, San Miguel, 
situated on the slope of the sierra of that name. And, having passed over this sierra, 
we found the face of the country between that and San Estanislado broken and un- 
even, and the forest growth diversified by the palm. 

Having learned that the nearest yerbales at which work was being carried on at 
the time were thirty miles distant in the mountains, I determined to visit them, ac- 
companied by a guide, who acted as interpreter. After a ride of twenty-five miles 
over a fair mountain road we reached the Yerbale of Santa Eosa, where we were 
welcomed to his ranch by the patron, Don Falkencia Periedo, who hospitably sup- 
plied us with the best he had, and to whom I am indebted for most of the following 
information relative to gathering and preparing of the "Paraguay Tea." 

The Yerba Mate, or Ilex Paraguay ensis, is, as designated by its botanical name, a 
shrub of the same class as our holly. Its Spanish name is derived from the word 
mate, a gourd, in which it is prepared as a beverage. It is found in the sierras of 
the northern part of this and in similar localities of the neighboring countries. Con- 
siderable quantities of it, as prepared for commerce, are now used in the different 
countries of South America. That of Paraguay is most esteemed, and is one of 
the principal articles of her export trade. The rethe lands in which the yerbales 
are found belong to the state, and the trade in it is a government monopoly. 

It is gathered and cured, sometimes under the superintendence of the government 
officials of the departments in which it is found, at others by private individuals who 
receive permission to work it on prescribed conditions. When worked by the of- 
ficials the workmen are drafted from the neighborhood, as if for any other public 
work, and are paid in cured yerba or in goods, such as wearing apparel, etc., with 
which the government keeps itself supplied for such purposes, and on which it gains 
the usual percentage. When worked by individuals the general rule is to allow them 
one third of the yerba cured, they paying all expenses. 

On commencing the work of gathering and curing the yerba, the patron or super- 
intendent selects his location — having in view the quantity of the material and the 
facility of transportation — -and erects the necessary buildings, consisting generally of 
a shed of fifty or sixty feet in length for storing the goods, provisions, etc., that he 
may have and the yerba that he collects, a number of small huts as dwellings for the 
workmen, and the barbracuas, or frames upon which the material is dried. The 
former are constructed in a rude manner and thatched with dry grass. The latter 



586 APPENDIX E. 

are more firmly constructed of poles and withes, are in size fifteen or twenty feet 
square, have arched or angular roofs, and firm even floors made of clay, extending 
six or eight feet beyond the frames on all sides, for the convenience of pulverizing 
the material after it is dried. 

Near each barbracua is erected (if there is no tree convenient for the purpose) a 
stand from which the uru, or foreman, may watch the drying material and go to the 
top of the barbracua to make such changes in its disposition as he may deem neces- 
sary. The yerba sometimes reaches the size of a tree, growing to the height of 
twenty-five or thirty feet ; but in collecting it for curing, the bushes of from six to 
twelve feet in height, and from one to two and a half inches in diameter of stem, are 
preferred. These, having been passed through the flames of a fire built near the 
place of cutting for the purpose, are stripped of their half-dried leaves and tender 
twigs, which are then carried to the barbracuas to be thoroughly toasted. 

For the purpose of transportation the ray do (a net-work of hide thongs of four or 
five feet square, having long thongs to pass over the leaves and twigs upon it, and 
secure at its diagonal corners) is used, and is carried upon the head and shoulders 
of a workman. Having been struck by the quantity carried by one man in this man- 
ner, I had the packed raydo weighed as it was taken off of the carrier, and found its 
weight to be fourteen Spanish arobas, of twenty-five English pounds each, or three 
hundred and fifty English pounds. 

The half-dried material is carefully placed over the top and partly down the sides 
of the barbracua, in quantities of from fifty to one hundred arobas, and in such a 
manner as to permit the heat to reach every part of it. A fire, from which the ob- 
ject is to get heat with as little flame and smoke as possible, is then built under it, 
and taken charge of by one of the workmen. The foreman mounts the guard-stand 
and the other workmen go to the collection of more half-dried leaves and twigs to 
take the place of those now being toasted. From thirty-six to forty-eight hours, the 
fires being kept up from daylight to 7 or 8 P.M., are occupied in the toasting process. 

If it rains upon the material upon the barbracua, it is necessary to repack and dry 
it again. And yerba which has been so made is not considered good for preserva- 
tion, and is never sent to the government agents for shipment, but is sold for home 
consumption. 

The toasting process being completed, the fire is removed, the floor swept off, and 
the dry material, being worked through the frame, falls to the floor, and is pounded 
with wooden instruments in the shape of wood swords, until reduced to the condition 
of a coarse powder, and gradually removed to the store-house as it becomes so. 

The yerba is packed in hide bales, made by cutting the edges of a raw hide even, 
moistening it, doubling it lengthwise, and sewing up the sides with hide thongs. 
The packing is done by putting in small quantities at a time while the hide is moist, 
settling it well with a heavy wooden pestle, and gradually closing the open end, until 
the bale will contain no more. The hide then contracting as it dries, adds to the 
compactness of the whole, and it is ready for transportation. These bales are termed 
tercios, and those made of the larger hides contain two hundred English pounds. 
The workmen are paid at the rate of 25 cents the aroba for the cured yerba, as it is 
brought from the barbracua, and a packer gains about six cents the aroba, the hide 
being found by the employer. 

Having passed 24 hours at Santa Rosa, I returned to San Estanislado, accompa- 
nied by the Seiior Periedo, and on June 24th, it being the Feast of St. John, we had 
a grand fasta. The chief amusement of the day was horse-racing, which appeared 
to be entered into with considerable spirit by the crowd, though the bets rarely went 
beyond a silver dollar. The horses were but ordinary in appearance or speed, and 



APPENDIX E. 587 

were ridden generally bare-back and with the riendas, which consist of a simple pair 
of leather reins secured by a leather thong to the lower jaw of the horse. This form 
of bridle is the ordinary one of the country, and I noticed that those who ordinarily 
used an iron bit preferred running their horses with the riendas. 

Our route to the River Tibiquari-Mini, lying within the edge of the series of 
sierras and mountains which, commencing with those of San Miguel, Ymbutuy, and 
Cauguazu, stretches over toward the River Parana, presented a great variety in the 
face of the country passed over. Until we reached San Joaquim it generally varied 
from deep grassy valleys to bluff wooded sierras. After leaving Yhu it was more 
regularly high and rolling, well covered with grass, and having large clusters of 
woods scattered over it. Throughout this portion of our route there is but a thin 
population, the uneven and broken country between San Estanislado and Yhu offer- 
ing but few advantages for agriculture, and the grass country beyond Yhu not af- 
fording a sufficiency of saline matter in the composition to keep cattle in a healthy 
condition. 

At the estancia of Don Manuel Antonio Vera, however, distant fifteen miles from 
San Estanislado, we found a fine crop of sugar growing, and also a mill for grind- 
ing the cane. This mill, as the representative of the only kind of labor-saving ma- 
chinery known in the interior of the country, deserves some notice here. It consisted 
of three wooden cylinders of about five feet in length and two and a half feet in diam- 
eter, set perpendicularly and in a line in a frame, so as to revolve horizontally. On 
the head of the middle cylinder, which projected above the frame-work, was set with 
a mortice one end of a pole, which was inclined to the ground at such an angle as 
to admit oxen or horses to be attached to the other end, as the motive power. This 
cylinder communicated motion to the other two by means of cogs and mortices. 
One of the outer cylinders was set at such a distance from the middle one as to take 
in the full-sized cane and crush it ; the other somewhat closer, so as to give it a sec- 
ond pressure. Near the mill was a shed, under which several large copper kettles 
were set in stone-work for boiling the juice. 

In this simple manner quantities of sugar and molasses are made in different 
parts of the country. And the adaptation of the soil and climate of the greater part 
of Paraguay to the production of this article of commerce is undoubtedly very good. 

Having reached the village of San Joaquim, I handed my letter of introduction 
from the Senor Ricaldi to the jefe, who kindly put a good house at my disposition, 
and, requesting that I might make known any farther wants I might have, excused 
himself from being much with me, as he was very busy in preparing an expedition 
for cutting a road from that place to the Parana, in order to collect some informa- 
tion of that portion of the country for his government, and more particularly to en- 
deavor to discover the valuable yerbale of Carema, which had been lost in the time 
of Francia. San Joaquim contains about thirty houses, and the inhabitants are all 
Indians, except the jefe and his household. 

Leaving San Joaquim on the 6th, in company with Padre Sosa, who had again 
joined us, we went to Yhu, another Indian village rather smaller than San Joaquim, 
but numbering rather more whites in its population. Here my friend the padre, 
who had to say mass on the morning of the 8th at San Joaquim, took his final leave 
of us on the 9th. 

After leaving Yhu we found our route leading over a different ''water-shed," the 
streams now all passing off to the eastward and paying tribute to the Parana. Upon 
reaching the considerable stream of Taruma we met a party of fifteen men, which 
the jefe of Yhu, Senor Alonzo Benites, had collected here to show us the mode of 
hunting the venadillo— a small deer of the country—with the bolas. 



588 APPENDIX E. 

The temptation was strong to join this party, as it started at full speed in pursuit 
of a herd of deer watching us from a little distance, and compare the carbine with 
the bolas. But a reflection upon my chronometer and traveling-horse determined 
me to move on with the train, and to be satisfied with occasional sights of the chase 
from a distance. 

By sunset we had reached the stream of Guirahugua and pitched the tents upon 
its banks, at a sufficient distance from a neighboring wood to be able to guard the 
horses from the jaguars, which are here the lords of the country, it being uninhabit- 
ed by the Paraguayans and only occasionally visited by the Indians of the mount- 
ains to the eastward. The tracks of these animals crossed our route in every direc- 
tion, and frequently they were so fresh, or the animal lying concealed so close, that 
the horses would start back at the scent, and it was with considerable difficulty that 
we could force them by some parts of the route. The stealthiness of the animal is 
such and the undergrowth so thick that though constantly on the look-out for a shot 
I did not get a clear sight of one of them. The jaguar often preys upon horses and 
cattle, and sometimes attacks a man, but boldness not being one of its characteris- 
tics, such prey is only attacked by surprise. 

On the evening of the 9th, I had an opportunity of letting the guide compare the 
rifle and the bolas. The deer were plenty around at a distance, and my dog was 
standing partridges every fifty or a hundred yards. After several ineffectual efforts 
to get a shot at the deer, which were alarmed by the size of our party, I got within 
fifty yards of two of them, and, firing my rifle, one of them fell. The guide, upon 
examining it, found that the ball had entered just back of the left ear, and passed 
out of the right eye. He was consequently very strongly impressed with the effect 
of the rifle, and the skill with which it was used. 

The village of Cauguazu we found to be a recent settlement — the church having 
been finished in 1852 — and containing but seven houses. It was a penal settle- 
ment, too, most of the inhabitants having been forced to it, in carrying out one of 
the means which this government uses for settling the wild portions of its territory ; 
which is to make such individuals or families as have offended against the laws of 
the older communities move out of them, and establish new ones in such places as 
it may designate. Leaving Cauguazu on the evening of the 10th, we passed that 
night with the Jefe Don Diego Villaba, about two miles from the village, in order 
to effect an exchange of another broken-down horse for a mule of one of his neigh- 
bors, which was done by paying nearly the value of the mule in money. 

Making an early start on the 11th, we passed through the "Monte Caugauzu," 
an elevated piece of wooded land of fifteen miles in extent, by the road, and which 
effected a change in the water-shed in our route again; the north fork of the River 
Tibiquari-Mini crossed near its southern limit, having its course to the westward. 
This is a stream of twenty yards in width, and having considerable current. 

Some five miles farther on we reach the main body of the Tibiquari-Mini, which 
is seventy-five or eighty yards wide, and which the guide pronounced to be in such 
a condition as to make it necessary to swim the horses over, and pass the luggage 
in canoes. Our trouble in preparing for this we found to be useless however, and, 
having lost some time at it, encamped for the night on a rich grass-plain a short 
distance from the southern bank. 

After leaving the Tibiquari-Mini we found ourselves again in the low lands, the 
face of the country between it and the town of Villa Rica being variegated with 
rich grass-plains and slightly elevated hills ; the latter were ornamented with quite 
thickly scattered houses and their chacras, in which were cultivated principally to- 
bacco and mandioca, of which this section of the country gives an abundant yield, 
while over the former were seen numerous herds of fine cattle and horses. 



APPENDIX F. 589 

APPENDIX F (Page 274). 

NOTES FROM COMMANDER PAGE TO MR. JOSE' FALCON. 

Asuncion, Paraguay, Sept. 28, 1854. 

The undersigned, lieutenant commanding the United States steamer Water 
Witch, has the honor to inform his Excellency Jose Falcon, Minister and Secretary 
of State of the Republic of Paraguay, that he has received from the Envoy Ex- 
traordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary of the United States to the Court of Brazil, 
a communication informing the undersigned that his Imperial Majesty has conced- 
ed the privilege to the U. S. steamer Water Witch to ascend and explore the up- 
per waters of the Paraguay River, and those tributaries within the dominions of the 
empire of Brazil. Accompanying the communication above referred to is a copy 
of the correspondence on this subject between his Excellency the Envoy Extraor- 
dinary and Minister Plenipotentiary of the United States, William Trousdale, and 
his Excellency Antonio Paulino Limpo de Abreo. 

The undersigned desires to bring this subject to the notice of his Excellency, and 
indulges the hope that his Excellency the President of the Republic of Paraguay, 
actuated by the same enlightened policy as that which has influenced his Imperial 
Majesty, will concede to the undersigned the privilege, of passing in the Water 
Witch through' that portion of the territory of Paraguay which lies between Asun- 
cion and the territory of Brazil. 

Your Excellency is aware that the object had in view by the explorations of the 
Water Witch is to extend the bounds of science and geographical knowledge. To 
the attainment of this end, the undersigned feels assured that his Excellency the 
President of Paraguay, will grant every facility. 

The undersigned appends an extract from the note of his Excellency Antonio 
Limpo de Abreo, of the 7th August, 1854, to his Excellency William Trousdale, 
Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary of the United States. 

"A vista pois da Seguranca que da o Senor William Trousdale, o abaixo assig- 
nado tern a houra de communiciar the, em resbosta a sua Nota de 4 de instuie- 
goes ao Presidente de Provincia de Matto Grosso, para permittir e felicitar as ex- 
ploracoes do Commandante do Water Witch no rio Paraguay, acima de Albu- 
querque e nos suis tributaries, que pertercen ao Brazil." 

The undersigned requests an answer at an early day, and takes the occasion to 
renew to his Excellency the assurances of his distinguished consideration. 

(Signed) Thos. J. Page. 

Asuncion, Sept. 23, 1S54. 

The undersigned, lieutenant commanding the United States steamer Water 
Witch, has the honor to address his Excellency Jose Falcon, Minister and Secreta- 
ry of State of the Republic of Paraguay, in relation to the departure from this 
country of the American citizens now residing in Asuncion. 

During an interview with his Excellency the President of the Republic on the 
22d inst., the undersigned was assured that to the departure of the American citi- 
zens above alluded to, together with their effects and merchandise, there was no 
objection ; and that it would only be necessary for them to be supplied with pass- 
ports, and have their merchandise dispatched through the custom-house in accord- 
ance with the usual forms. Under this assurance vessels have been provided for 
their departure, their passports taken out, and on the application made through the 
secretary of the undersigned for the permit for the merchandise, the undersigned is 
informed that the permit can not be granted until the surrender by Mr. Hopkins, to 



590 APPENDIX E. 

the Collector of Customs, of the papers relating to the purchase of land at San An- 
tonio. The undersigned does not perceive any relevancy of the two questions one 
to the other — the taking out of a permit for goods and the demand of the Collector 
for the papers alluded to. The papers are the private property of the American 
company of which Mr. Hopkins is agent, which is sufficient reason that he should 
retain them, and as such can not be surrendered to the Collector of Customs. 

The undersigned desires that his position in relation to citizens of the United 
States may be distinctly understood by your Excellency, and to this end he assumes 
the medium of a written communication. 

The obligations enjoined on the undersigned by the Government of the United 
States make it his imperative duty to protect from violation the persons and prop- 
erty of American citizens, to the discharge of which duty the undersigned, recogniz- 
ing the full force of the obligation, feels confident that he shall never be delinquent. 

The rule of conduct prescribed for the undersigned by his sense of duty to the 
American citizens in the city of Asuncion is this, that, failing to receive the neces- 
sary permit for their departure in the usual mode and means of conveyance, they 
will embark on board the United States steamer Water Witch for safe conduct to 
Corrientes. The undersigned trusts that his Excellency will appreciate the sense 
of duty under which the undersigned finds himself placed, when he assures his Ex- 
cellency that he indulges the hope that the good relations which have characterized 
his intercourse with the government of Paraguay may long subsist. Desiring an 
answer at an early day, the undersigned avails himself, etc., , 

(Signed) Thos. J. Page. 

Asuncion, Sept. 29, 1S54. 

The undersigned, lieutenant commmanding the United States steamer Water 
Witch, has the honor to acknowledge the receipt of the communication of this date 
from his Excellency the Secretary of State and Minister of Eoreign Relations, re- 
turning his two communications of yesterday without a reply to either. This con- 
tempt of official communications, unknown to the civilization of the age, deprives 
the undersigned of the means of arriving at the designs and purposes of this gov- 
ernment toward forbidding or permitting the prosecution of the exploration in- 
trusted to his charge by the government of the United States, so far as the territory 
of Paraguay is concerned. Eurthermore, it deprives the undersigned of the means 
of arriving at the fact whether or not will this government permit the American 
citizens now residing in Asuncion, held bound under such painful circumstances, to 
leave this country in the conveyance usually adopted. One of the communications 
related to this point especially. 

To this the undersigned receives the return of his letter, instead of a reply to his 
question. The duty now devolves on the undersigned to receive on board of the 
Water Witch the American citizens alluded to, for their protection and safe con- 
duct out of the dominions of Paraguay. The question of translating the communi- 
cation above alluded to into Spanish, is one the undersigned does not permit him- 
self to entertain. With equal right might he claim of this government the transla- 
tion of its communications into English. The undersigned is cognizant to the fact 
that the government has received other communications in the English language, 
and has had them translated into the Spanish. The government of Paraguay is 
therefore not in such a state of dependency as to require that the undersigned shall 
supply it with a translator. 

The undersigned desires to inform his Excellency that the circumstances involved 
will be reported to the government of the United States, for its action and instruc- 



APPENDIX G. 591 

tions. In the mean time he will relieve the American citizens of their painful po- 
sition by removing them to a country of their own selection. 
The undersigned takes the occasion to renew, etc., 

(Signed) Thos. J. Page. 



APPENDIX G (Page 299). 

CONTRACT OF COLONIZATION FOR THE PROVINCE OF CORRIENTES. 

In the city of Corrientes, capital of the province of the same name, on the 29th 
January, 1853, before me, the undersigned, Notary Public of the Government, and 
the undersigned witnesses, appeared Secretary Don Gregorio Valdez and Dr. Don 
Augusto Brouges, of Caixon Department " de las Altas Pireneos," in Prance, who 
said : the first, that, as the representative of his Excellency the Governor and Cap- 
tain-General of the Province, Don Juan Pujol, to make with Sefior Brouges a sol- 
emn contract for the establishment of colonies in the country, and to reduce the 
same to a public instrument of writing ; and the second, that it was true, as had 
been announced by the Secretary, and that he recognized it as a legitimate con- 
tract. In virtue of which, and by the present writing entered into by both parties, 
they bind themselves in the following articles of agreement : 

1st. The secretary declared that the government of his country, desiring to pro- 
mote and unfold in the province that which the industry of the people demanded, 
and especially the agricultural interest, as a sure fountain of the wealth of a coun- 
try, permits Sefior Brouges to bring to the country one thousand families for the 
purpose indicated, each family to be composed of five persons, whose transit will be 
at the expense of Sefior Brouges ; with the understanding that, should the govern- 
ment of Corrientes have a steamer in any port of the Argentine Confederation, the 
property of the province, on the arrival of these families in the Bio de la Plata, it 
shall be placed at the disposition of Sefior Brouges, or his agent, for the purpose of 
towing the vessel containing the emigrants up to the point of their disembarkation. 

2d. The major part of these five persons who compose each agricultural family 
will be of the male sex, capable of working, and not under ten years of age ; chil- 
dren of less age, of the same family, being admissible as supernumeraries. 

3d. Two distinct families, united by an authentic agreement, and making the 
number of five persons, will be accepted as one, and in this sense will enjoy priv- 
ileges above stipulated. 

4th. Sefior Brouges is bound to effect the transportation of the one thousand fam- 
ilies by groups of two hundred each in the space of two years, and the entire num- 
ber in the space of ten, which will count from the day of the arrival of the first group 
at the place of their destiny. 

5th. Each group shall be from a colony, under the direction of Sefior Brouges, 
or his competent agent, the agreement of each individual family being an affair in- 
trusted to him. 

6th. The locations of the colonies granted by the government will be on the River 
Parana and Uruguay, in what is called the "Missiones," and they will be selected 
by Sefior Brouges from the public lands. 

7th. The government of Corrientes, in the name of the province, adjudges to each 

family, of the lands selected by Sefior Brouges, twenty* "cuadras" square, of one 

hundred and fifty " varas" a side, whose lot and portion of land shall be, at the end 

of five years from the arrival of each group of families, the absolute property of each 

* " Yeiente cuadras cuadradas de'eiento cinquenta vases por cada lado." 



592 APPENDIX G. 

one of the families, in consideration of the advantages accruing to the country from 
their industry. 

8th. Each colony will locate in two sections, of one hundred families to each, 
fronting each other, leaving an intermediate space of a hundred "cuadras" one from 
the other, of three "cuadras" in breadth, which intermediate space may be sold bv 
the government of Corrientes to those who may wish to build on it, with the view 
of increasing the population of the colony, it being understood that one half of the 
proceeds of such sale shall go into the public treasury of the province, and the other 
half into the common depository of the colony, for the public benefit, and declaring 
of the same character those lands between the possessions of the colonists and the 
river's banks. 

9th. The government of Corrientes grants, at the same time, for the common 
benefit of each colony, four leagues square of land, in addition, adjoining the pos- 
session of the colonies, extending into the interior of the province, whose right of 
possession shall be alienated by no one. 

10th. In addition to the above, the government of Corrientes will provide for the 
establishment of each family a house or "ranche" of wood, consisting of two rooms, 
of five " varas" square, one of them to have a door, and the other a window, the 
whole of the value of fifty dollars ("patac ones"); it will also furnish six barrels 
of flour, of eight arobas each (200 pounds), cotton and tobacco seed for sowing a 
"quadra" (150 yards) each; four "fanegas" of wheat, and one of corn for the 
proper use, and plants of sugar-cane sufficient to plant one "cuadra" of land; also 
twelve head of cattle, two oxen for cultivating the ground, eight cows for breeding, 
and two horses for work. 

11th. The agricultural families will establish themselves under the following con- 
ditions : the articles above mentioned will revert to the government at the expiration 
of two years from the date of their delivery ; provided that, should the crops of the 
colonists have been bad during these two years, then the time of reversion shall be 
extended to three years ; but this operation will not take effect with the succeeding 
group of families in two years, but at the expiration of three, because it is advisable 
that the advances made to the first colony will serve as elements for the establish- 
ment of the second ; those of this for the third, and so on, until the state has been 
reimbursed to the last amount expended, which shall be at the rate of two hundred 
dollars ("patac ones") to each family. 

12th. The colonists will clear the lands granted them. Each family will culti- 
vate one half of the land in cotton, tobacco, sugar-cane, wheat, and corn, leaving the 
other half for the cultivation of any thing that may please the colonist. 

13th. The colonists who are thus established in this province will be a dependency 
of it, and in no manner whatsoever of any other state or nation. They will have 
an administration, civil and judicial, discharged by a judge of the peace ("juez de 
paz"), appointed by the government from among the colonists, or a native of the 
country, whose administration shall be conformable with the laws of the province. 

14th. The colonists will have the right to appoint a colonial commission of ten 
persons from the same colony, whose duty will be to serve as a council to the judge 
of the peace, in certain cases, to vote the necessary sum of money for the benefit of 
the colony, and to represent to the government the propriety or necessity of better 
measures. 

15th. The colonists will practice industry freely, under subjection, nevertheless, to 
the laws of the country. 

16th. During the term of five years from the establishment of each colony, the 
colonists will be exempted from all personal tax on articles both movable and im- 
movable. 



APPENDIX H. 593 

17th. The duties arising from exportation and importation shall be the same in 
the colonies as the rest of the province. 

18th. The colonists will be exempted from military service, being competent only 
to organize a civil national guard, for their proper defense and the maintenance of 
good order in each colony, whose service will be confined to the colony alone ; and 
the colonists will not present themselves, in an armed body, at a greater distance 
from the confines of the colony than one league. 

19th. Mr. Brouges will advise the government of Corrientes four months before 
the expected arrival of the colonists, to the end that the government may have the 
necessary time to construct houses of wood, and make other necessary arrangements. 

20th. This contract will be submitted to the' approval of the government, repre- 
sented in the person of the secretary, from which vill be obtained a full ratification, 
rendering effective all these obligations ; it will be observed and complied with, ex- 
actly and legally, without modification, alteration, or interpretation in any manner 
differing from the true intent of its stipulations. 

To which appeared as witnesses Don Bartolome Lescano, Don Manuel Jose Ruda, 
and Don Jose Ezequiel Madeyro, before me, Notary of the Public and Government, 

Gregoeio Vaudez, 

Don Augusta Brouges. 

C Bartolome Lescano, 

Witnesses, \ Manuel Jose Ruda, 

v. Jose Ezequiel Madeyro. 

Corrientes, January 12th, 1853. 

En virtud de la ley de 25 Corriente, que encabeza este contrato, lo apruebo y ra- 
tifico en todas sus partes. Juan Pujol, Gobernador. 



APPENDIX H (Page 384). 

THE ATTACK UPON THE WATER WITCH. 

Commander Page to Mr. Dobbin. 

United States Steamer Water Witch, Parana Eiver, February 5, 1S55. 

Sir, — I have the honor to forward to the Department the inclosed report from 
Lieutenant Jeffers, from which it will be seen that a most unprovoked, unwarrant- 
able, and dastardly attack has been made on the "Water Witch" while she was in 
the peaceable and rightful discharge of duty assigned me by the Department. 

On the 31st of last month I left Corrientes, with the small steamer and two boats, 
taking with me three of the officers and sixteen men, with the design of ascending 
the River Salado, in boats, if possible, should the small steamer prove inadequate. 
This force would have been necessary, in the event of using either the small steamer 
or the boats. Lieutenant Jeffers I left in charge of the Water Witch, with instruc- 
tions to ascend the Parana River, so far as her draught would allow. This, I sup- 
posed, would be less than two hundred miles. 

He sailed from the town of Corrientes on the 1st instant, and, as will be seen from 
his report, had not gone more than three miles from where the river forms the com- 
mon boundary between Corrientes (one of the provinces of the Argentine Confedera- 
tion) and Paraguay, when the Water Witch was fired into from a fort on the Para- 
guay side of the river. 

The Water Witch was in the act of exploring a river which is the common bound- 
ary between these two countries. The right of each to navigate this river up to the 

38 



594 APPENDIX H. 

limit of the Province of Corrientes has never been questioned by either, and I had 
never heard that Paraguay presumed to exercise the power of preventing its naviga- 
tion. 

To the exploration of this portion of the Parana I had not only obtained the per- 
mission of the Argentine Confederation, and especially of the Province of Corrientes, 
but an expression of earnest solicitude on the part of both the President of the Con- 
federation and the Governor of Corrientes had been made that I should establish 
the fact that the river is navigable to a much greater extent than that to which it is 
now known to be, of which they had some hope, but not the means of proving. 

The navigation of this river to the extent of the territory of Corrientes is already 
secured to the flag of the United States by treaty with the Argentine Confederation. 
That government, so far from objecting to the Water Witch's ascending the river, 
had furnished me with an order, enjoining upon every province into whose waters I 
should enter the obligation to afford me every facility. 

On what ground and for what reason the government of Paraguay has presumed 
to commit such an act I am unable to conjecture. So far from the Water Witch 
making any hostile demonstration, she attempted to pass up the river through a 
channel way which was more on the Corrientes side, and, in doing so, was "run 
aground" by the pilot. This was seen from the fort. It was well known to the 
government of Paraguay, and, doubtless, to the commander of the fort, that the 
Water Witch was with a very reduced complement of both officers and men, and, 
consequently, it could not have been her design to make an attack. The act of fir- 
ing into the vessel can not, therefore, receive the shadow of justification on the 
grounds of anticipating an attack. It is consequently a wanton outrage ; the act of 
a government beyond the pale of civilization, and seemingly unconscious of the re- 
sponsibility of such an outrage. This is, nevertheless, no palliation for so grave an 
offense. 

Lieutenant Jeffers was in the act of executing instructions which he had received 
from me when the steamer was fired into. His course and conduct on the occasion 
I highly approve and commend, and I hope they will meet with the approval of the 
Department. 

It is with pain and regret that I report the death of Samuel Chaney, quartermas- 
ter. He died in two hours from the effects of wounds received from a ball and 
splinters. There were a few slight wounds received by others from splinters, which 
were so slight as not to prevent the discharge of the usual duties. 

The vessel was hulled ten times, but in no point of any importance. The repairs 
can be readily made. I now proceed to Montevideo with the hope of obtaining 
from the commodore or senior officer two or three guns of suitable callibre and an 
addition of a few men. With this force I shall feel confident of the ability of the 
Water Witch to avenge the outrage which has been perpetrated on the flag of the 
United States. 

I indulge in the sanguine hope that the commodore will act in this matter with all 
the promptness which the exigencies of the case require, and that such a course will 
receive the approval of the Department. 

I have the honor, sir, to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

Thos. J. Page, Lieut. Com'g U. S. Steamer Water Witch. 

Hon. James C. Dobbin, Secretary of the Navy, Washington, D. C. 

Lieutenant Jeffers to Commander Page. 

United States Steamer Water Witch, Corrientes, February 2, 1855. 
Sir, — In pursuance of your instructions, and with the consent of the Governor of 



APPENDIX H. 595 

the Province of Corrientes, at 7 A.M. on yesterday, February 1, weighed anchor 
and stood up the Eiver Parana for the purpose of making an exploration of its upper 
course so far as navigable, and rectifying the chart of the river up to the mouth of the 
Paraguay in all places where the channel had changed since the chart was made. 
Nothing particular occurred until 11 A.M., when we entered the Parana above the 
mouth of the Paraguay (observing some movements at the Guardia " Cerito"), and 
continued our course diagonally across the stream toward the Corrientes shore, in- 
tending to pass between that and an island about four miles above the mouth of the 
Paraguay, Guardia "Carracha," at the Paso del Rev, in sight on the right bank. 
At ll h 26 m opened this station, a semicircular, brick fort on an elevation of about 30 
feet above the river, mounting, as well as I could ascertain, six guns "en barbette," 
and shortly afterward ran aground, about half a mile from the fort, on a sand-bank 
making up suddenly out of deep water, one fathom under the bows, 3£ at the wheel- 
house. A boat was sent from the guardia, which laid off observing our motions. 

I immediately laid out a kedge astern, and about 12 h 15 m hauled off and let go 
our anchor ; attempted to weigh the kedge, but lost it. While the men were at their 
dinner I observed the Paraguayans getting their guns ready. I shifted starboard 
gun to forward port, on port side of quarter-deck, cleared for action, filled forty 
shrapnell and twelve shells, and got up thirty stand of grape ; but not supposing 
that any thing serious would result, did not cut the rail over the port to which the 
gun had been shifted. 

I then stationed Mr. Potts at the bell, and in charge of the deck, to assist the 
pilot, with directions to proceed at all hazards, unless the machinery should be dis- 
abled. Mr. Lamdin I placed in charge of the after guns, and Mr. Taylor at the 
engine. We mustered at quarters but twenty-eight, of whom two were sick, and 
five cooks and stewards. 

At l h 20 m weighed ; while weighing the anchor, the Paraguayan canoe which had 
been observing our movements came alongside, and a man offered me a paper plant- 
ed in Spanish, which I declined to receive on the ground that I could not read it. 
As soon as the anchor was aweigh, I stood up the river, the crew at quarters. The 
pilot informed me that the only practicable channel was close to the fort, and this 
channel I directed him to take. On arriving within three hundred yards, I was 
hailed by a person, who, I am informed, was the Paraguayan admiral ; but I did 
not understand the import of the hail. Two blank cartridges were then fired from 
the fort in quick succession, and followed by a shot. I had given particular orders 
that no shot should be fired except in return, and then only by my directions ; and 
on receiving this first fire, I directed a general fire in return. 

The first shot of the enemy carried away the wheel, cut the ropes, and mortally 
wounded Samuel Chaney, the helmsman. A bar was soon shipped, and the vessel 
steered by it, but with some difficulty on account of the rapidity of the current. In 
a couple of minutes after the action had commenced the pilot deserted his station, 
and hid himself behind the engine-house. Dragged up thence by Mr. Potts, on 
looking around him he exclaimed, "We shall certainly ground, as there is not suf- 
ficient water in the channel." By this time we had run past all the guns of the 
battery except one ; and on learning the state of things, I left the bow gun, which I 
had been directing, which was no longer serviceable, and took the deck. The pilot, 
whom I had again to force up to his station, in a high state of excitement, repeatedly 
exclaimed, "We shall be aground in a moment," insisting that we could not pass 
up. The vessel being then in ten feet water — drawing nine — I was reluctantly 
compelled to back down past the battery, exposed to a severe fire, which, from the 
position of the vessel being nearly bows on, I could not return. On getting out of 



596 APPENDIX I. 

range I anchored, repaired damages, and filled more ammunition, having observed 
the Paragiiayan war steamer "Taquari" firing up. 

I am satisfied the pilot was not in the channel ; but in his state of fright nothing 
could be done with him, and to have grounded would have been to insure the loss 
of the vessel, as it is said that the Paraguayans have at this point six thousand men 
and a numerous artillery to arrest the passage of the Brazilian fleet. The ' ' Taquari, " 
with their gun-boats, would alone have been an overwhelming force. At 3 P.M. 
weighed anchor and returned to Corrientes. 

It had been my intention to attack the Guardia "Cerito," where a gun-boat was 
lying. The "Taquari" dropped down and anchored there for its defense, which 
made the odds too great for any hope of a successful attack with my little crew of 28 
men, and the armament one 24 and two 12 pound howitzer boat-guns. Although 
so superior in force, the "Taquari" made no demonstration of following us. 

The amount of damage sustained by the enemy it is difficult to estimate. Mr. 
Bushell, the clerk, who was directed by me to take notes of the action, states that 
one of their guns was dismounted, and, from the good explosions of several of the 
shrapnell, some execution must have taken place. A battery of this nature exposes 
so few men that I can not estimate their loss as very great. I am confident that, 
had all the officers and men been on board, we should have killed or driven them 
from their guns, and taken the battery; but I must do them the justice to say that I 
saw no signs of flinching. The fire was slow but remarkably well directed. 

It will, I hope, be evident, from the preceding details, that this attack was as un- 
provoked as it was unexpected ; but, following the dictates of prudence, I was not 
unprepared for such a result. It is not a little remarkable that at no time, either 
before or after the engagement, was any flag displayed. 

In conclusion, I must fulfill an agreeable duty in bearing witness to the zealous 
manner in which the engineers of this ship supported me on this occasion. Mr. Potts 
was in charge of the deck ; Mr. Lamdin of a division of guns ; and the latter assisted 
personally in loading after some of his men had deserted from their quarters. The 
engine was worked by Mr. Taylor with as much promptitude as on ordinary occasions. 

I have the honor, sir, to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

William N. Jeffers, Lieutenant in Command. 

Lieutenant-Commander Thomas J. Page. 



APPENDIX I (Page xxii.). 

MEMOKIAL OF THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL SOCIETY. 
American Geographical and Statistical Society, New York, May 11, 1S52. 

Mr. De Witt Bloodgood, to whom was intrusted the preparation of a memorial to 
the Secretary of the Navy on the subject of a survey of the Rio de la Plata and its 
tributaries, presented the following, which being read, was adopted, and ordered to 
be forwarded to the Secretary of the Navy : 

The American Geographical and Statistical Society of New York having recently 
had its attention called to the great commercial importance of the countries border- 
ing on the Rio de la Plata and its tributaries, by the written and verbal reports of 
E. A. Hopkins, Esq., for many years a resident in Paraguay, and now on his re- 
turn to that country as United States Consul, has endeavored, under a deep convic- 
tion of the importance of the subject, to awaken a spirit of inquiry among our coun- 
trymen, and to turn the attention of our commercial classes to the vast regions now 
opened to their enterprise. 



APPENDIX I. 597 

To that gentleman the Society is indebted for valuable information, not to be 
found in the latest geographies, and for the correct delineations of several rivers and 
lakes, not yet adopted even in the best maps of South America. The Society, hav- 
ing given as much publicity as possible, through the press of New York, to informa- 
tion so valuable and opportune, deems it to be within the proper sphere of its duty 
to invoke the aid of at least one department of the government to a subject daily 
growing more and more important. 

The late political events at Buenos Ayres, and the downfall of a policy, which, to 
say the least of it, has been destructive of the free navigation of the Plata River for 
very many years, preceded as it was, also, by a similar isolating policy of the cele- 
brated Dictator of Paraguay, have at length opened to the commercial states of Eu- 
rope and North America a field of commercial adventure of boundless extent and 
endless fertility. Already the leading statesmen of England and France have ex- 
changed notes on the propriety of securing the trade of these newly emancipated 
countries, by proposing the guarantees of a full diplomatic recognition. Our own, 
as we fear, has as yet done nothing, even for the very governments who prefer our 
friendship to that of all other nations. 

The extent of the territory watered by the Plata and its tributaries, the variety 
and value of its natural products, the anxiety which its political rulers and the peo- 
ple themselves have manifested to seek and establish friendly relations with the 
United States have deeply impressed the Society ; and it desires, as its first and 
most signal effort, to obtain the assistance of your Department in the development 
and successful accomplishment of its design, to make those countries which have 
had no commerce by sea for a long series of years friends of our flag and customers 
for our products. 

It is the earnest wish of the Society to procure, through your official power and 
influence, an immediate survey of the River Plata, its affluents and confluents, and 
of the shores that are washed and made prolific by these great rivers. It is to ob- 
tain such information, by actual and scientific observation, as will enable our navi- 
gators and merchants to enter those rivers for the purposes of trade, for the ad- 
vancement of civilization, and the promotion of the best interests of humanity. 

It must be well known to your Department that a large part of Brazil and Bolivia, 
all Paraguay, the upper provinces of the Argentine Republic, and a portion of 
Uruguay, have for many years been cut off from any direct and active commercial 
intercourse with the rest of the world ; and that the productions of their soils, rich, 
varied, and inexhaustible, have been of little benefit to themselves or to those 
countries which most desired to obtain them. It is needless, therefore, for the So- 
ciety to enter into details upon this branch of the subject farther than to refer your 
Department to the fact that at least one quarter of the whole of South America is 
now, for the first time, within the reach of our enterprise, offering positive and far 
more profitable results than we have gained or can gain from many old countries 
where, at a large expense, we have kept up formal diplomatic arrangements, and 
where our squadrons ride at anchor in courteous idleness; older countries, who 
warily guard their ports by restrictive or reciprocal customs against our too success- 
ful trade, or in the end heap up balances against us which scarcely the gold of Cali- 
fornia can liquidate. 

The marts now opened to us in South America, by the change in the government 
of Buenos Ayres, are as yet almost without limit. The commerce of our country 
has but to enter them to be enriched. 

The inhabitants of the countries upon the upper waters of La Plata have for a 
long time scarcely enjoyed the comforts of civilized life. 



598 APPENDIX I. 

They have a fine climate, they have abundant means, they are, in fact, wealthy, 
but of our beautiful and useful fabrics, the comfortable furniture, the latest and 
most useful agricultural and mechanical implements, the clothing, the works of art, 
the axe, the saw, the steam-engine, they know but little. In order to introduce 
them into those countries, and to bring back their rare and valuable woods, their 
drugs, their hemp, their tobacco, and their precious minerals, the way must first be 
explored and pointed out. Large vessels are quite unknown in the upper waters. 
The small trade which Paraguay carries on shorewise with itself, or occasionally 
with Buenos Ayres and Montevideo, is by means of small water-craft that float 
downward with the current, or slowly re-ascend it by the aid of their rude sails. 
And so sensible are the governments of Bolivia and Paraguay of the necessity of a 
change in the navigation of those rivers, they have offered large bounties in money 
and lands to whoever will first ascend those rivers by steam. On good authority 
the Society is assured that any expedition undertaken for this purpose will receive 
their most cordial welcome. 

Your Department, then, is solicited to take the first step in bringing about a com- 
mercial intercourse between those countries and the United States, through these 
internal and fluvial avenues. It respectfrdly asks that you will immediately select 
one of the small government steamers carrying about five feet water to proceed to 
the upper tributaries of La Plata, certainly as far as Assumption, to make a geo- 
graphical reconnoissance, and a hydrographical survey. This steamer, being made 
a part of the Brazilian squadron, will not require any particular appropriation from 
Congress, and the Society will be most happy to procure the services of two or three 
scientific persons, to assist in the objects of the inquiry, if the Department will recog- 
nize them as attached to the expedition. It would also engage to furnish them a 
full set of instructions, geographical and statistical, as a guide to those intrusted with 
its particular portion of the investigations. Thus, in an ample and economical 
manner, one of the most important and attractive subjects of the day would be illus- 
trated and explained through the Department, greatly to its own honor and the ad- 
vantage of our maritime interests. 

Nor does the Society deem this appeal to your Department an improper one. 

Great as has been the glory acquired by our navy, noble as have been its triumphs, 
dear to us as is its renown, we believe its mission is not the less a noble one when 
it bears around the world the flag of a peaceful, united, and happy nation ; when it 
rescues our shipwrecked mariners from the horrors of some desolate or barbarous 
coast ; when it gives to the American citizen in far-distant countries the " assurance 
doubly sure," that even there his property and his life will find protection; when it 
convoys safely through the squadrons of adverse and contending parties our own 
richly-laden merchant fleets, and when it curiously explores the newly discovered 
rivers, the icebound inlets, and dangerous coasts, where American enterprise may 
gather wealth in security. 

These are some of the services, already happily rendered, which have made our 
navy so popular, and that induce such liberal appropriations for its support in time 
of peace, and almost without a murmur. 

Our army when not engaged in war sinks into comparative inutility, but the navy 
is ever on the wing, the messenger of peace, of commerce, and of civilization, our 
proudest representative, armed, except in the last resort, only Math good will and 
chivalric courtesy. 

Most of the great commercial and scientific explorations of the last hundred years 
have been conducted by naval officers, under the patronage of their respective gov- 
ernments. England, France, Holland, Russia, and the United States, have names 



APPENDIX J. 599 

on their naval lists which have,. gathered their brightest laurels from the peaceful 
fields of laborious research. 

Our own government has distinguished itself by its admirable coast-surveys, its 
Antarctic and Arctic expeditions, and is now directing its attention to the seas and 
shores of Japan. In this latter expedition it may necessarily be that force is to be 
an element of success ; but in the proposition we make to the Department, to ex- 
plore the River Plata, no such element will be necessary. The small steamer which 
it will send there, where one was never before seen, will be welcomed by an enthu- 
siastic population, and received with gratitude. Every where her commander will 
be hailed with joy, and the blessings of millions, of Christian people will be showered 
upon our countiy when her mission is proclaimed. 

Every where her officers, savants, and crew, will be received with open arms, 
and the records of her exploring parties will brighten the pages of our commercial 
history. 

Our Naval Department has before this shown a similar intelligent spirit. The 
National Observatory at Washington, under its fostering care, has already become 
famous throughout the world. Its chief has already essentially benefited navigation 
and commerce by his profound theories and observations on the currents of the 
ocean, as well as by those accurate nautical tables from which the mariner learns to 
trace his daily course upon the deep. 

In conclusion, the Society most respectfully asks the aid of your Department in 
carrying out the objects expressed in this memorial, the scientific exploration of the 
River Plata and its tributaries, a proceeding clearly within its acknowledged prov- 
ince, conducive to the prosperity of an immense territory that seeks our friendship 
and our trade, to the interests of American commerce and manufactures, and those 
of the human race. 

Should the Society be so fortunate as to have presented in this brief memorial 
sufficient reasons to induce the Department to approve and forward the project 
which it advocates, it respectfully suggests that no time is to be lost in carrying it 
through. The Americans are at this moment in high favor with Brazil, and the 
states bordering upon these rivers. Our products will be the first they receive under 
the new order of things. Such is their habit that whatever articles are now sent 
them from our looms and factories will probably be preferred to all others. Circum- 
stances greatly favor our obtaining the largest share of their trade, and we can not 
doubt that the enlightened views by which the administration of the Department 
has been directed hitherto will continue to be the source of increased prosperity to 
all those interests it was established to protect and advance. 

The recent appointment of English and French diplomatic agents, now on their 
way to this new theatre of commercial enterprise, affords the most positive evidence 
of the propriety of the measures suggested by your memorialists. 

All which is respectfully submitted. 

The Hon. Vm. A. Graham, Secretary of the Navy, Washington. 



APPENDIX J. 

NOTES ON THE BIRDS COLLECTED BY THE LA PLATA EXPEDITION. 
By John Cassin, of the Academy of Natural Sciences, Philadelphia. 

Philadelphia, November 11th, 1856. 
Sir, — The collection of birds made during the survey and exploration of the Rio ^ 
Parana by the United States steamer Water Witch, under your command, has been 
received for examination at the Academy of Natural Sciences of this city. 



600 APPENDIX J. 

This collection is one of the most interesting ever made in South America, on ac- 
count of the countries in which it was obtained being so seldom visited by travelers 
or naturalists, and my impression is that it contains numerous birds never before 
known, and certainly not in any museum or collection in this country. 

I hope to have, at an early day, the honor of reporting to you, sir, the results of 
a more extended and careful examination, especially of the many remarkable birds 
in this collection. 

The volumes relating to natural history have, within a few years, been completed 
by two European expeditions to South America. The more important is the voy- 
age of her Majesty's ship Beagle, performed by order of the British government. 
The other is D'Orbigny's voyage to South America, performed under the auspices 
of the government of France. In both of these, the natural history is very carefully 
published. Your collections are certainly not inferior to those of either of these ex- 
peditions, and, judging from the notes of officers which I have seen, my opinion is 
that an American contribution to the natural history of South America can be made 
very much superior to both. 

So long as the condition or progress of the arts and sciences properly characterizes 
nations, the publication of the results in natural history of your expedition must be 
regarded not only as important to zoological science, but even in a national aspect. 
I am, sir, very respectfully, John Cassin. 

Captain Page, United States Navy. 

The collection of birds brought by Captain Page's party is of high interest on 
account of having been made in countries of South America little visited by voya- 
gers or naturalists. In fact, Paraguay may be said to be the least explored country 
of South America which is readily accessible. Mainly, of course, this collection 
was made in that and other countries bordering on the rivers Parana and Paraguay ; 
and the great distance to which this expedition ascended the latter afforded it an 
almost peculiar, and certainly a very little explored field of operation in natural his- 
tory. That part of the collection made in Paraguay is, for reasons here indicated, 
most valuable and interesting. 

The expedition, having been designed and dispatched for the performance of a 
special duty only, was not provided with naturalists nor facilities for making collec- 
tions. This omission, however, was compensated for by the fact that great interest 
was taken in the profuse natural productions of the countries visited, and large col- 
lections made by officers attached to the expedition. The collection of birds was 
made under the immediate direction of Captain Page, mainly by Lieutenant Wil- 
liam H. Powell and Dr. Eobert Carter. . 

I. Raptores — Rapacious Birds. 

The collection contains twelve species, all of which are of the family of Falcons, 
the most interesting of which are, perhaps, Falco sparverius, or the common Sparrow 
Hawk of the United States, remarkable for being one of the very few birds that in- 
habit the entire continent of America. Numerous specimens of Buteo pterocles and 
nigricollis and the curious short-toed Falcon known as Geranospiza hemidactylus. 
Falco femor alls, is also in this collection, a bird which has been found in New Mexico. 



1. Falco sparverius. 

2. Falco fcmoralis. 

3. Geranospiza hemidactylus. 

4. Asturina cinerea. 

5. Asturina insectivora. 
<3. Buteo pterocles. 



7. Buteo nigricollis. 

8. Morphnus urubitinga. 

9. Morphnus meridionalis. 

10. Ictinia plumbea. 

11. Circus macropterus. 

12. Polyborus tharus. 



APPENDIX J. 



601 



II. Insessores, or Perching Birds. 

The collection contains numerous beautiful species of the families of Parrots, Jays, 
Tanagers, Kingfishers, Ply-catchers and others of the groups which are especially 
South American. Numerous specimens of the Great-billed Toucan, Ramphastos 
toco, all of which are of smaller size than the same bird of more northern countries 
of South America, showing clearly the prevalence of a smaller race in Paraguay. 

Several of the largest known species of Parrots or Macaws are in the collection, 
and also several specimens of the handsome small species recently described by the 
Prince Bonaparte as Pionus coralinus. Of the gigantic Kingfisher of the South 
American rivers, Ceryle torquata, there are several specimens, also of the Amazon 
Kingfisher, Ceryle Amazona. 

One of the most interesting birds in the collection is the beautiful black "Wood- 
pecker first described by D'Orbigny as Picas melanogaster. We recognize the fol- 
lowing species of the group of perching birds in this collection, in addition to which 
are numerous others which at present we have not determined : 



1. Cyanocorax pileatus. 

2. Cyanocorax cyanomelas. 

3. Aniblyramphus ruber. 

4. Leiestes viridis. 

5. Tanagra striata. 

6. Tanagra cana. 

7. Lophospiza cristata. 

8. Zonotrichia matutina. 

9. Gubernetes yetapa. 

10. Saurophagus sulphuratus. 

11. Lichenops perspicillata. 

12. Taenioptera coronatus. 

13. Tsenioptera nivea. 

14. Pyocephalus rubineus. 



16. Anodorhynchus cinereus. 

17. Macrocercus Brasiliensis. 

18. Conurus nenday. 

19. Pionus coralinus. 

20. Ceryle torquata. 

21. Ceryle Amazona. 

22. Eamphastos toco. 

23. Crotophaga ani. 

24. Crotophaga major. 

25. Picus robustus. 

26. Picus melanogaster. 

27. Trogon surucura. 

28. Cuculus guira. 

29. Piava macroura. 



15. Ara maracana. 

Among those not examined are several species of Saltator, Molothrus, Furnarius, 
Celeus, and others. 



III. Easores, or Gallinaceous Birds. 
In the birds of this group in the collection, the two supposed species of Crax 
known to naturalists as Crax Yarrellii and Crax fasciolata are labeled as male and 
female of the same bird. 



1. Columba gymnopthalmus. 

2. Columba meridionalis. 

3. Northura major. 



4. Crax Yarrellii. 

5. Crax fasciolata. 

6. Penelope pipile. 



In addition to which are several species of Tinamus and some beautiful specimens 
of Penelope that we can not name without more extended examination. 



IV. Grallatores — "Wading Birds. 
The present having been an exploration principally by water, the collection con- 
tains numerous birds of the classes that habitually frequent rivers of South America 
and their shores. "We especially notice fine specimens of the gigantic storks, Myc- 
teria Americana and Ciconia pillus ; also of the' South American Ibises, Geronticus 
nudifrons and cozridescens. 



602 



APPENDIX K. 



1. Ardea cocoi. 

2. Egretta galatea. 

3. Egretta scapularis. 

4. Tigrosoma Brasiliense. 

5. Ciconia pillus. 

6. Mycteria Americana. 

7. Nycticorax sibilatrix. 

8. Ibis melanopsis. 

9. Ibis nudifrons. 



10. Geronticus cserulescens. 

11. Aramiis scolopaceus. 

12. Vanellus Cayannensis. 

13. Limosa Hudsonica ? 

14. Eallus gigas. 

15. Gallinula crassirostris. 

16. Parrajacana. 

17. Hiaticula Azarse. 



Numerous specimens of Totams, Tringa, Calidris, and Ckaradrius have not been 
examined, some of which are, however, apparently identical with birds of the Unit- 
ed States. 

Natatores — Swimming Birds. 

The country passed through by the expedition appears to be particularly the na- 
tive locality of the Musk Duck, Anas moschata, the parent stock from which has been 
derived the domestic musk, or Muscovy Duck. Numerous specimens of this bird 
are in the collection obtained at various localities on the Bio Parana and tributaries. 
The Black-necked Swan, Cygnus nigricollis, is also in the collection obtained far up 
the Parana, thus showing a range of locality hitherto unknown to naturalists. The 
same is the case with the Flamingo of the western coast, Phoznicopterus ignipalliatus, 
previously best known as a bird of Chili. 

We may note especially also fine specimens of the beautiful Shoveler Duck of 
South America, Spatula maculata, little known to naturalists. Also numerous 
specimens of the very handsome Teals, Querquedula torquata, versicolor, ipicutiri, and 
cyanoptera, the last of which has been found in the western countries of North 
America. We recognize the following : 
- 1. Phcenicopterus ignipalliatus. 



^ 2. Cygnus nigricollis. 

3. Cygnus coscoroba. 

4. Euligula metopias. 

5. Cairina moschata. 

6. Spatula maculata. 

7. Querquedula torquata. 



8. Querquedula versicolor. 

9. Querquedula cyanoptera. 

10. Querquedula ipicutiri. 

11. Bhynchops nigra. 

12. Carbo Brasiliensis. 

13. Podiceps leucopterus. 

14. Sterna magnirostris. 



Also various other species of Podiceps, Sterna, and Larus. 

AD the specimens in this collection are in unusually fine plumage and condition, 
and form a very beautiful and important addition to the National Museum. 



APPENDIX K. 

NOTE ON FISHES AND REPTILES. 
By C. GlRARD. 

Washington, D. C, November 25, 1856. 
Dear Sir, — The preliminary survey which I have made of the fishes and reptiles 
collected by you in Paraguay fully anticipates the expectation Ave might have enter- 
tained in that respect while you were yet in the field. 

Of the fishes, two families are especially well represented — the sihroid and the 
characini. The first embracing fishes akin to the catfish of our fresh waters and 
the sea-cat of our coast. It is especially numerous in South America, where its 
various types assume diversified aspects. The second is almost exclusively proper 



APPENDIX L. 603 

to the southern hemisphere, since its northernmost representative is an inhabitant 
of the waters of the valley of the Eio Grande del Norte (Rio Bravo), and southwest 
portion of Texas. 

I perceive already several species entirely new to science, and I am satisfied that, 
on a more critical examination of the whole collection, many more will turn out to 
be so. But the accession of new species is not the sole point of interest in the col- 
lection we owe to your exertions. Its study will touch to other problems as yet but 
little understood. And first and foremost is the problem of the natural affinities of 
these fishes with the types now extinct, and which have peopled the waters of geo- 
logical eras in times gone by. Next comes the problem of the zoological affinities 
with the ichthyic fauna now living upon the present surface of the earth. 

I could readily point out to you some of the results, cursorily obtained, were I not 
reluctant to write fragments of a history which will make the subject of a general 
report to you, so soon as Congress shall have decided upon its publication. 

I have a few words to say about the reptiles. There are but few saurians, or lizards, 
in the collection ; some of them I have had an opportunity to examine from other 
sources. 

The ophidians, or snakes, are well represented ; several are moccasinlike, the oth- 
ers belong to the inoffensive colubridse, both of land and water habits. 

I see no frogs. A series of tree-frogs and tree-toads, however, make me think 
that many interesting results will be obtained from their investigation. 

The same is true with regard to the toads, properly so called, of which there are 
several kinds. Their history will fill up a gap in the natural history of South Amer- 
ica, and complete the results I have obtained a few years since while examining 
other collections. I remain sincerely yours, C. Girard. 

Captain T. J. Page, United States Navy. 



APPENDIX L. 



LIST OF MEDICINAL SUBSTANCES OBTAINED BY THE EXPEDITION. 
By J. Carsox, Professor of Materia Jledica, etc., in the University of Pennsylvania. 

Philadelphia, December 1, 1S56. 
Dear Sie, — I have seen and cursorily examined a portion of the specimens in 
natural history which have been brought from the interior of South America, the 
acquisitions of the expedition for exploration recently under your command, and am 
impressed with the importance to science and the industrial arts of all the informa- 
tion acquired by you. There can be no hesitation in declaring that you should be 
enabled, by an appropriation on the part of government, to make known the result 
of your labors, and thus secure, for the benefit of mankind, what has been deemed 
of sufficient consequence to authorize a special commission to obtain. With the 
hope that you will speedily be enabled to proceed with the work of publication, I am, 
very truly, your obedient servant, J. Carson. 

Captain Page, United States Navy, Washington. 

Cixchon'a bicoloeata (Cuibourt. Hist. Nat. des Drogues Simples ; Carson, 
American Journal of Pharmacy.} The true botanical source of this bark has not 
been accurately determined. Its locality was supposed to be the TVest Indies. 
Its presence in the collection proves it to be a native of the interior of South 
America. It is desirable to determine the true plant from which it is derived. A 
good tonic. 



004 APPENDIX L. 

Slmarouba officinalis (De Candolle). — The bark of this tree is analagous to 
Quassia. It is the Simarouba bark of commerce. 

Guaiacum officinale (Lin.). — Specimens of the bark and resin (Resina guaiaci) 
are in the collection. 

Contrayerva; the root of the Dorstenia Brasiliensis, described by Guibourt 
(Hist. Nat. des Drog. Simp.). — There are several specimens of the Dorstenia enu- 
merated by Martius in his Sy sterna Materia Medicce Vegetabilis Brasiliensis. 

Mechoacanna. — A species of Mechoacan Root, probably from the Piptastegia 
pisonis (Martius, Mat. Med.) The specimens resemble the Mechoacan Root of the 
United States. It is purgative, owing its properties to a resin like that of Jalap. 

Sarsaparilla. — There are several species of the smilax growing in South Amer- 
ica. The stems of two species are in the collection, but it is impossible to deter- 
mine which they are. The expedition evidently opens a new source for this drug. 

Krameria, Rhatany. — The root of the Krameria triandria (Ruiz & Pavon). It 
was first discovered by them in Peru. The specimen in the collection may pos- 
sibly be the K. Ixina. It is a powerful and valuable astringent, and of value as 
a drug. 

Alstr^emeria. — The roots of two species under the names Battat'dla and Robano. 
These roots are probably demulcent, as is the case with many of the species of that 
genus. One is known to afford a fecula similar to arrow-root. 

Schinus molle. — The stems of the plant which, according to Martius, belongs 
to the family of Anacardiace^e. They are resinous and heating, possibly useful 
as a stimulating diaphoretic, etc. 

Xanthoxylum Langsdorfii (Martius). — The stems, under the name of Tembetaru. 
The properties of this plant, like those of its congeners, appear to be stimulant and 
tonic. 

Grenadilla. — The stems of a species of Passiflora. There are several of them 
mentioned as medicinal by Martius. These are astringent, etc. 

Jathropha curcas. — The seeds, which afford a purgative oil. They are called 
Pinon purgatvco. The plant belongs to the family of Euphorbiaceoz. ' £4-1* 

Verbena. — Two species are said to be emetic, the other a fiavorer. The first 
goes by the name Berbena carriotado solidago. It may be the S. vulneraria of Mar- 
tius, used for the purpose indicated by its name. 

Rosmarinus. — The R. officinalis, or an allied species, apparently R. Chilensis. 

Rosa. — The buds of a rose either native or introduced. Astringent. 

Salvia (Sage). — It may be a new species, or one of those mentioned by Ruiz & 
Pavon, growing in Chili. It has the well-marked character of the genus. 

Equisetum. — A species of Horsetail used in syphilis; probably, like the. class, 
tonic and astringent. 

Ruta, Rue. — Ruta graveolens (officinalis, Martius) ; according to this author, every 
where cultivated. 

Absinthium. — Probably the Baccaris triptera. D. C. and Martius. 

Mate. — The leaves of the Ilex Paraguayensis (St. Hilaire, var. obtusifolia Mart.) ; 
an interesting plant from which is obtained a substitute for tea. 

Coca. — The leaves of the Erythroxylon coca (Lam.); an important article to the 
natives of South America as a stimulant and soother. It has been placed with 
narcotics, but its effects differ. 

Malva. — There are many species belonging to the Malvaceae, in South America 
(see Martius), whose properties are demulcent. 

Pteris. — This plant belongs to the Filices. There are three species mentioned 
by Martius, viz., P. kptophylla, P. pedata, P. pcdinata. They are astringent. The 



APPENDIX M. 



605 



native name, Doradalia cuspa, is given to this medicine. It is said to be a purifier 
of the blood. 

Elemi. — A resin from the Idea icicariba (D. C, Martius, or I. altissima, Aud., 
D. C.) It is a fine balsamic resin, used for the same purposes as the Terebinthince. 
The family is AnacaT&frzcem. £V*w^ 

Guarana. — An astringent substance of dark brown color, in rolls of various sizes. 
Martius supposes it to be prepared from the extract of the Paulina sortilis. It has 
somewhat of a chocolate taste, and the fruit of the cacao is supposed to be mixed 
with it. It has been analyzed by Cadet and Batka. The latter has reported the 
existence of an alkaloid principle in it. It is stated that it is used as a substitute 
for tea or coffee, and has somewhat of their refreshing effects. 

Copaiba. — The species submitted corresponds to the Copaifera coriacea CHayne). 
It affords the true drug and may be of importance in the commerce of the country 
explored by the expedition. 

Gum angico. — The product of the Acacia angico, or A. pirema (Martius). It re- 
sembles one of the forms of Senegal Gum. See paper by J. Carson, M.D., in 
American Journal of Pharmacy, vol. xvii. 

Bergamot.— A species of Monarda, resembling M. Bergamii. 

Mint. — Mentha piperita. 

Gnaphalium. — A species of Life everlasting. 



APPENDIX M. 

METHODS OF WOEK. 

By Lieutenant William EL Powell. 




SECTION OF EIVEE PARAGUAY, AT ASUNCION. 

(Scale : For horizontal measurements, i inch to 100 feet; for soundings, 1 inch to 100 feet.) 

The instruments used were a piece of well-stretched and waxed cotton cord, for 
measuring the base ; a sextant, for establishing the ranges and measuring the angles ; 

a watch with a second-hand, and 
the float (Fig. F) for obtaining the 
surface-current ; and a lead-line, di- 
vided into feet and five tenths of a 
foot, for taking the soundings. 

The method of work was as fol- 
lows : On a line taken parallel to 
the course of the current by the eye, 
a base of 151.8 feet, as a multiple 
of 50.6 feet, which bears the same 
proportion to a sea mile (taken as 
6075.56 feet) that 30 seconds does 
to an hour, was measured and staked 
as AB. 




idy-offull sr'xe 



606 APPENDIX M. 










The ranges A a and B b were then established by staking the points (a) and (6) 
at 90 degrees from B and A respectively, and B b extended across the river to C. 

The angle BAG was then observed = 85° 20', the distance B c measured=44.5 
feet, and C c calculated. 

C c being known, the points 1 and 2, dividing it into three equal sections, and the 
points S, S', and S", marking the middle of each of these sections, were fixed, and 
the angles ASB, A1B, etc., calculated. 

The points S, 1, S', 2, and S", of the line C c, were then taken up in a boat by 
means of the range B b, and the angles ASB, A1B, etc. (previously calculated), on 
the sextant, and sounded, the intervening points of the 1st and 3d sections being as- 
sumed by the eye. 

The velocity of the surface-current at the stations S, S' and S" was found by anchor- 
ing the boat above the range B 6, and dropping it by the anchor-rope, until the stern 
was exactly on the range. A float, represented by Fig. F, was put overboard from 
the bows then, and the instant of its leaving the stern made known to an observer 
at (a) by signal, who noted the exact time of its passage of each range. 

With the difference of these times represented by t, 3 representing the number of 

times 50.6 feet was contained in the "base," s representing the surface-current in 

30 x 3 
miles per hour, was obtained by formula No. 1, s = . 

By means of the soundings and the distances on the line C c — the mean of the 
soundings of each section being taken as its altitude — the transverse section of the 
river was obtained, and the square surface of it calculated by its subdivisions. 

The surface-currents s, s', and s" being known, the velocity of the mass of each 

(V s — 1) M-s 
section was found by formula No. 2, y — - (from Jackson's "What to 

Observe"), y representing velocity of mass, and s the surface-current, and, conse- 
quently, the cubic feet of each and all the sections calculated. 
From these data and this method we have the following results : 
C c 1815.1-^-3 = 605 feet, length of section. 

605 -^2=302. 5 " " " half section. 
The altitude of 1st section = 14 feet. 
" " " 2d " =42.6 " 
" " "3d " =25.4 " 
Surface-current of 1st section 1.12 miles per hour. 
" 2d " 2.30 " " " 
" 3d " 2.33 " " " 
Velocity of mass of 1st section 0.56 miles, or 3402.31 feet per hour. 
" « " 2d " 1.28 " " 7776.71 " " " 
" " " 3d " 1.30 " " 7898.22 " " " 
350618351.9, total number of cubic feet passed per hour. 



APPENDIX N. 



607 



APPENDIX N. 

POINTS AND ELEVATIONS DETEEMINED ON THE EIVER PARANA. 





Lat. S. 
34 11 40 


Long. W. 

58 15 28.5 

59 00 31 

59 13 26 
59 27 28 
59 39 34 

59 52 38 

60 15 21 
60 36 04 
60 41 33 

CENDING THE 
Long. W. 

60 39 48 
60 50 27 
60 44 50 
60 48 18 
60 44 44 

TOING FROM 
Long. W. 
64 08 25 

63 '43 15 

63 28 58 
63 18 07 
63 12 00 

RIVER "V 
Long. W. 

58 41 32 

58 59 09 

59 06 38 
59 10 47 
59 13 50 

INTERIOR OE 
Long. W. 

57 42 42 
57 24 42 

57 16 50 
57 06 05 
56 53 09 
56 34 47 
7 55 32 00 
56 05 09 

55 58 55 

56 05 35 

S BY BAROMI 

. 182 feet. 
. 580.7 " 
. 398.7 " 

RIVER U 
Long. W. 
58 25 55.5 
58 25 37 
5S 13 37.5 

57 59 40 

58 23 00 
58 20 25 

ENTRE 

auses) 

ho 


6£ Diamante 

7 i of a mile W. of P 

rana — the Bajada 

8 


Lat. S. 
. 32 04 04 
1- 

. 31 42 54 
. 31 24 00 
. 30 59 00 
. 30 44 08 
. 30 10 21 
. 29 07 00 
. 28 29 00 
. 27 27 31 

Lat. S. 
... 30 46 18 


Long. W. 
60 38 56 


1 


34 00 38 




n 

2 


33 53 00 

33 47 00 


60 32 39 

60 08 25 


3 


33 40 00 


9 




59 53 03 




ro 33 41 00 

33 31 23 

33 15 17 

32 56 44 

. . D. E. 32 10 00 

AS 
Lat. S. 
31 38 34 


10 La Paz 




59 38 42 


4* 

5 


11 

12 Near Goya 

13 Bella Vista . . . 




59 39 39.5 
59 21 20.6 
59 07 01 6 


6 






58 52 51 




RIVER SALADO. 

6 




Long. W. 
60 39 44 


2 


31 21 24 

31 06 21 

31 00 48 

30 52 5S 

DESOKI 

io 27 20 35 

27 42 33 

28 07 14 

28 26 27 


7 




... 30 33 57 


60 37 00 


3 ... . 


8 




... 30 13 48 


60 40 50 
60 3S 00 


4 


9 




... 30 12 48 


5 


10 




... 30 10 50 


60 38 47 


Estancia Taboa 
Matara 


THE UPPER WATERS. 

Navicha 




Lat. S. 
... 28 43 08 
... 29 05 13 


Long. W- 
62 58 00 
62 48 00 


Paso Coria 




... 29 13 42 
... 29 22 32 


62 34 30 
62 22 00 








... 29 16 03 


61 49 15 




■ermejo. 

Variatic 

6 June 14, 1857 

7 " 19, " 10° 52' 

8 " 22, " 

9 " 24, " 
Guardia Vermejo 

PARAGUAY. 

Variat 

Villa Eica 7° 34' 

Yuty 7°4S' 

San Pedro 

C'amgo 

Carmen 

San Cosme 7° 35' 

Santiago 7° 04' 

s. Maria de Fu 

San Miguel 7° 12' 

Iron Works, 
"Fabrica" .. 

TRICAL MEASUREMENTS. 

Wisner's estancia, abo 

(t (t U 

EUGUAY. 

Gualaguaychu 

( oncepcion del Urugua 

Paisandu 

Estancia Campbell 

Concordia 


n. Lat. S. 
26 20 16 

E. 26 12 13 
26 09 28 
26 10 09 

... 26 51 52 

on. Lat. S. 
E. 25 47 10 
E. 26 37 05 
26 50 05 

26 55 47 

27 12 30 
E. 27 19 09 
E. 27 07 39 

26 46 51 
E. 26 31 59 

26 05 32 

ve B. Ayres . . 
Asuncion. . 

Lat. S. 
. 33 00 35 
y 32 29 32 
. 32 18 24 
. 32 04 45 
. 31 24 44 
. 31 23 20 

Long. W. 
60 12 07.5 
59 46 46 
59 21 10 

64 09 00 
m 00 00 
64 22 15 




Variation. Lat. S. 

1 May 26, 1857 26 44 45 

2 " 28, " 7° 32' E. 26 35 57 

3 June 3, " 26 21 23 

4 " 6, " 8° 42' E. 26 20 44 

5 « 10, " 26 17 09 

Variation. Lat. S. 

Asuncion 25 16 29 

Ytagua 25 23 54 

Head of Lake 

Ypacaray 25 22 02 

Tobaty 25 15 26 

Caraguatav ... 6° 51' E. 25 14 00 
Est. S. Miguel. 24 55 4} 
S. Estanislado . 6° 56' E. 24 40 00. 

Yhu 6° 50' E. 25 03 13 

Asuncion, above Buenos Ayres 


Long. W. 
59 20 53 
59 29 57 
59 31 59 
59 39 OS 
58 28 21 

Long. W. 
56 30 20 
56 18 42 
56 16 47 
56 17 47 
56 14 21 
56 24 48 

56 50 21 

57 05 17 
57 09 24 

57 57 27 

.. 328 feet. 
.. 146 " 


Higueritas 


Lat. S. 
33 52 25 2 


Long. W. 
58 32 16 
58 14 55 
58 07 27.7 
58 10 06.7 
5S 01 28 5 


Mouth of the E 
At Cerito Estan 
Mercedes, Eio J 
Point Diamante 


lo Negro 33 21 33 

" 33 18 38 

sTegro... 33 15 40 

33 10 40 

33 07 13.5 


Frey Bentos. .. 


Salto del Uruguay 

RIOS. 

Lat. s. 

32 39 53 

33 14 28 




57 59 39 


Vic 
Isl 


/toria (Puerto de las £ 
ind in the Palm Kiac 
alaguay (Puerto de E 

re of Cordova 


Gu 




33 13 37 




Cr 




31 24 00 






" Tucuman 




26 51 00 






" Santiago del Estero 


27 46 20 





608 



APPENDIX 0. 



APPENDIX O. 

METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 
EXPLANATIONS OP TABLES. 

The barometric and thermometric computations are the result of eight daily ob- 
servations made at 3 A.M., 6 A.M., 9 A.M., noon, 3 P.M., 6 P.M., 9 P.M., and 
midnight; and the mean ranges given only for some prominent places, such as 
Asuncion, Buenos Ayres, etc., where the steamer remained long enough to admit 
of a series of observations being made. 

The direction and force of the wind were also noted at those times, and the name 
and strength of that most prevalent set down in the column, according to the fol- 
lowing scale : 

SCALE OF WINDS. 



Number. 


Miles per hour. 


Technical description. 


1 


2 


Very light breeze. 


2 


4 


Gentle breeze. 


3 


12 


Fresh breeze. 


4 


25 


Strong wind. 


5 


35 


High wind. 


6 


45 


Gale. 


7 


60 


Strong gale. 


8 


75 


Violent gale. 


9 


90 


Hurricane. 


10 


100 


Most violent hurricane. 



Similar observations were made of the state of the weather. By clear days is 
meant that at least two thirds of the sky is unclouded ; by cloudy, a larger part 
cloudy than clear ; and by rainy days, that more or less rain then fell, without ref- 
erence to quantity. 

Letters are used to designate the state of the weather, and denote as follows : 
f. foggy; F. thick fog; 1. lightning; m. misty; q. squally; t. thunder; h. hazy. 
A * appended to any letter indicates an extraordinary degree. 

The altitude above the sea, given in the column headed Alt., is that of the river 
at that place. 

The observations at Buenos Ayres were made by Dr. Kennedy in connection 
with those taken at other points of the exploration. Altitude of the observatory, 
sixty feet above the sea. 



APPENDIX O. 



609 



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The success of this periodical is wholly unpre- 
cedented ; but when we consider the large amount 
of reading matter it supplies — much of it of the 
highest merit in respect both of its literary char- 
acter and of the entertainment and information it 
is adapted to impart — its admirable typography, 
and the low price at which it is sold — the general 
favor which it has obtained might have been ex- 
pected from a community sufficiently instructed to 
appreciate its excellences. — Journal of Commerce. 

The most extraordinary serial publication of the 
ATorld. — The London Publishers'' Circular. 

The most popular monthly in the world. It has 
become one of the literary wonders of this country. 
Almost exclusively composed of the works of Amer- 
ican authors and artists, it pays its contributors 
some twenty-five hundred dollars monthly. It is a 
happy circumstance that it aims at the highest 
standard of literature and the purest of morals in 
all its pages. It is not a matter of surprise that a 
Magazine presenting monthly such an immense 
amount of popular and useful reading should have 
a circulation of a hundred and thirty thousand or 
more. — N. Y. Observer. 

This popular Magazine, while it does all that is 
lawful to court popularity, never descends to cater 
for it by ministering to opinions or propensities in- 
jurious to good morals or social order. Though 
not exclusively a religious work, it is always auxil- 
iary to Bible truth and sound morality. — N. Y. 
Christian Advocate and Journal. 

From the child first learning to read, and who 
can already enjoy a picture, to the man and wo- 
man entering life and on to hoary-headed age, Har- 
per's Magazine will be sure to furnish some one or 
more articles that will interest and amuse, that will 
be well worth the price of the number. It is an 
equally welcome guest at the hearths and homes 
of the laborer and millionaire, and holds monthly 
discourse with half a million of delighted auditors. 
— American Republican. 



Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, 

Franklin Square, Neiv YorJc. 



A Splendidly Illustrated First-class Family Neivspaper. 

HARPEITS WEEKLY. 

A JOURNAL OF CIVILIZATION. 



Harper's Weekly will be mailed to Subscribers at the following rates, payment being invariably 
required in advance : 

TERMS. 

One Copy for Twenty Weeks . . . $1 00 Five Copies for One Year $9 00 

One Copy for One Year 2 50 Twelve Copies for One Year . . . . 20 00 

One Copy for Two Years .... 4 00 Twenty-five Copies for One Year . . 40 00 
"Harper's Weekly" and "Harper's Magazine," one year, $4 00. 
Volume I. of Harper's Weekly, handsomely bound in Cloth extra. Price $3 50, is now ready. 
Muslin Covers are furnished to those who wish their Numbers bound, at Fifty Cents each. Twenty- 
five per Cent. Discount allowed to Bookbinders and the Trade. 

* s * To Postmasters getting up a Club of Twelve or Twenty-five, a Copy will be sent gratis. Subscrip- 
tions may commence with any Number. Specimen Numbers gratuitously supplied. 
[JZgp Clergymen and Teachers supplied at the lowest Club Rates. 

As Harper's Weekly is electrotyped, X umbers can be supplied from the commencement. 
Btjlwer's brilliant Romance, entitled "What will he do with it?" appears in Harper's Weekly 
simultaneously with its publication in England. 



Harper's Weekly abounds in original matter, 
spicy, piquant, instructive, and entertaining. It 
has, and deservedly, a very large and increasing 
circulation. It is a tip-top family paper. — Boston 
Journal. 

It (Harper's Weekly) is the proper size for bind- 
ing, and an excellent opportunity is afforded for any 
one who wishes to preserve the history of the country 
as it is made, to do so by filing Harper's Weekly. — 
Pontiac (Mich.) Jacksonian. 

Its fresh leaves, its clear type, its entertaining 
variety, its severe but just criticisms upon the fol- 
lies of the times, its elegantly- Avritten and instructive 
articles, and its able correspondence, all combine to 
make it the model newspaper of our country, and 
one that every family must prize. Its condensed 
weekly summary of Foreign and Domestic Intelli- 
gence is altogether superior to that contained in any 
other journal. Being published, too, in a form for 
preservation and binding, if taken care of as it de- 
serves to be, it will be found in future years as wel- 
come a companion for the family and fireside as the 
day on which it was first perused.— M' Connellsville 
(O.) Inquirer. 

Handsomely printed, well illustrated, and fur- 
nished with the most extraordinary and useful lit- 
erary contents. — Springfield Republican. 

We would not so often call attention to Harper's 
Weekly if we were not well satisfied that it is the 
best family paper in the United States, and for tbat 
reason, and that alone, we desire to see it undermine 
and root out a certain kind of literature too prevalent, 
which blunts the morals of its readers, vitiates their 
tastes for sensible reading, and is altogether bad in 
its effects. — JSew London Advertiser. 

To this (its literary contents) the best writers in 
the country contribute, and are incited to do so by 
the very adequate payment they receive, with a 
promptness to which they are entirely unaccustom- 
ed. We rejoice at its increasing circulation, and the 
consequent elevation of the general public taste. — 
Newark A dvertiser. 

Certainly it is one of the best family newspapers, 
if not the very best, that has ever appeared either in 
Europe or America. — Memphis Eagle. 

Harper's Journal is admirably conducted, full of 
interest and entertainment, and well deserves the 
liberal patronage extended to it. — Xeio Orleans Bee. 



Welcome and instructive in every part of the 
Union. — Savannah Morning News. 

Harper's Weekly surpasses any thing of the kind 
in the country, and is superior to any of the pictorial 
papers in the value of its illustrations. Its success, 
in consequence, has been unprecedented. — Whig 
Press. 

A magnificent newspaper— just the paper for the 
people. It can not be excelled in the line of illus- 
trations, affording the very best specimens of wood 
engraving. — The Jcfersonian. 

Conducted with industry, propriety, and good 
taste.— X. Y. Herald. 

"Harper's Weekly" is well filled with original 
and selected matter. Its leading articles are well 
toned and timed, and its illustrations are far ahead 
of any journal of the kind in the country. Its pen 
portraits of distinguished living men are of them- 
selves worth the price of the volume. — X. Y. Chris- 
tian Advocate and Journal. 

The pictorial matter of this splendid sheet is un- 
approached, as a whole, by that of any other among 
us, and, perhaps, not surpassed elsewhere — X. Y. 
Examiner. 

It would be difficult for any weekly paper in these 
United States to compete with " Harper's Weekly." 
* * * Its vast profusion of illustrations, fresh aud 
original, catch the cursory eye, while the condensa- 
tion and lucid arrangement of the immense variety 
of current, local, and foreign news, enable the reader 
to follow the course with ease, and instruct himself 
readily on all topics worth talking about. Enter- 
taining fiction, light sketches, and piquant and hu- 
morous anecdotes form prominent features^ — X. Y. 
Express. 

We like the "Weekly" very much. It isn't 
trashy, nor silly, nor Iove-sicky. It can be carried 
into the family with safety.— Provide nee Post. 

Harper's Weekly is the best illustrated paper ever 
published in the country, and is well worth double the 
half dime which it costs. * * * Its illustrations alone 
are worth more than any of the other secular papers 
of the day. — Cincinnati Journal and Messenger. 

As Harper's Magazine has done much to drive out 
the yellow-covered literature, so we should be glad to 
see this Weekly take the place of those papers which 
depend for excitement on poor, trashy novels. — 
X. Y. Evangelist. 



Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, 

Franklin Square, New York. 



21 ©orgeous anh ©asteM GMft-Book. 

THE 

POETS OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 

SELECTED AND EDITED 

BY THE 

REV. ROBERT ARIS WILLMOTT. 

WITH ENGLISH AND AMERICAN ADDITIONS, 

ARRANGED BT 

EVERT A. DUYCKINCK, 

Editor of " Cyclopedia of American Literature." 
COMPRISING SELECTIONS FROM THE FOLLOWING 

AUTHORS. 

James Beattie — William Cowper — William Hayley — James Hurdis — Charlotte Smith — Anna 
Seward — Erasmus Darwin — William Crowe — Thomas Percy — George Crabbe — Mary Tighe — Ann 
Radcliffe— Anna Letitia Barbauld — Hannah Mors — W. Lisle Bowles— Samuel Rogers — Amelia Opie 
— William Spencer — Lord Byron — Percy Bysshe Shelley — John Keats — Samuel Taylor Coleridge 
— William Wordsworth — Charles Lamb — Henry Kirke White — Washington Allston — Richard 
Henry Dana — Samuel Woodworth — Walter Scott — Thomas Campbell — Richard Hemy Wilde — 
James Montgomery — Joanna Baillie — James Grahame — Robert Bloomfield— Ebenezer Elliot — 
Thomas Moore — Charles Wolfe — Allan Cunningham — Sidney Walker — James Hogg — Charles 
Sprague— Felicia Hemans — Mary Russell Mitford — Lydia Huntley Sigourney— Reginald Heber — 
Robert Southey— Caroline Bowles (Mrs. Southey)— John Leyden — John Clare— John G. C. Brain- 
ard — Edward Coate Pinkney — Clement C. Moore — Bernard Barton — William Sotheby — Willam 
Cullen Bryant — Joseph Rodman Drake — Fitz Greene Halleck — Horace Smith — George Darley — 
Winthrop Mackworth Praed — Thomas Hood — Thomas Pringle — Walter Savage Landor— Joseph 
Blanco White — John Keble — Henry Hart Milman — Leigh Hunt — George Croly — Samuel Ferguson 
— John Moultrie — Thomas Babington Macaulay — William Motherwell — Henry Taylor — David 
Macbeth Moir — Richard Chenevix Trench — Ralph Waldo Emerson — Charles Fenno Hoffmann — 
George P. Morris — Ralph Hoyt — William Gilmore Simms — Nathaniel Parker Willis — Henry Al- 
ford— William Makepeace Thackeray — Alfred Tennyson — Philip Pendleton Cooke — John Green- 
leaf Whittier — Edgar Allan Poe — Henry Wadsworth Longfellow — Henry Theodore Tuckerman — 
Oliver Wendell Holmes — Alfred B. Street — Robert Browning— Elizabeth Barrett Browning — Charles 
Kingsley — William Edmonstone Aytoun— Thomas Davis — Edward Bulwer Lytton — Bryan Waller 
Proctor — Edwin Atherstone — Mary Howitt — Matthew Arnold — W. C. Bennett — Alexander Smith — 
Philip James Bailey — Sheridan Knowles — Gerald Massey — William Allingham — Charles Mackay 
— Frances Brown — Thomas William Parsons — James Russell Lowell — Maria Lowell — Thomas Bu- 
chanan Read — Bayard Taylor — Richard Henry Stoddard — William Allen Butler — Alice Carey. 

SUPERBLY ILLUSTRATED WITH £32 EN&BAVIN@S. 

FBOM DESIGNS BY THE FOLLOWING 

EMINENT ARTISTS. 

Birket Foster— W. Harvey— Harrison Weir — F. O. C. Darley— A. Hoppin— J. Gilbert— J. H. 
Hill— J. E. Millais— D. Maclise— W. Mulready— C. Stanfield— F. R. Fickersgill— J. Tenniel— T. 
Dalziel — J. W. Casilear — A. Hughes — E. Duncan — J. R. Clayton — J. Goodwin — J. D. Harding 
— G. Dodgson— F. M. Brown— W. L. Leitch— E. H. Corbould— D. Edwards. 



In elegant Small 4to form, printed on Superfine Tinted Paper, richly bound in 
extra Cloth beveled, gilt edges, Price Three Dollars. 
%* Habpee & Beothees will send this work by mail, securely enveloped in thick wrappers, 
postage paid (for any distance in the United States under 3000 miles), on receipt of Five Dollars. 



PUBLISHED BY HARPER 8c BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE, N. Y. 



fjaxptx's Catalogue. 



A New Descriptive Catalogue of Harper & Brothers' 
Publications, with an Index and Classified Table of Contents, is 
now ready for Distribution, and may be obtained gratuitously on 
application to the Publishers personally, or by letter inclosing Six 
Cents in Postage Stamps. 

The attention of gentlemen, in town or country, designing to form 
Libraries or enrich their Literary Collections, is respectfully invited 
to this Catalogue, which will be found to comprise a large propor- 
fion of the standard and most esteemed works in English Literature 
—comprehending more than two thousand volumes — which 
are offered, in most instances, at less than one half the cost of sim- 
ilar productions in England. 

To Librarians and others connected with Colleges, Schools, &c, 
Who may not have access to a reliable guide in forming the true 
estimate of literary productions, it is believed this Catalogue will 
prove especially valuable as a manual of reference. 

To prevent disappointment, it is suggested that, whenever books 
can not be obtained through any bookseller or local agent, applica- 
tions with remittance should be addressed direct to the Publishers, 
which will be promptly attended to, 



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